Electric Baseload Basics (Hands-On)

Transcription

Electric Baseload Basics
Hands On (TPM 05)
Affordable Comfort Conference
May 16-21, 2005
Presented by:
A. Tamasin Sterner
Pure Energy
[email protected]
Table of Contents
Page
Electric Baseload
Introduction
How to Do a Baseload Audit
Electric Bill Analysis
Electric Energy Terms
Basic Tools
Typical Cost per Use
Sample PPL Bill
Useful Energy Related Websites
white
Water Heaters
pink
Refrigerators
yellow
Lighting
green
Clothes Dryers
orange
Computers, Monitors and Printers
beige
Consumer Electronics
blue
Other
lavender
1
3
4
7
8
10
15
19
Dehumidifiers
Waterbed Heaters
Pumps
Filters
Thanks to the following people for sharing their research and knowledge:
Rana Belshe
Larry Kinney
John Krigger
Michael Blasnik
Alan Meier
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Electric Baseload Savings Introduction
What does Baseload mean?
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
Baseload is the base electric load – the portion of a customer’s electricity use
that is pretty constant all year. Air conditioning and heating are not considered
baseload. Water heating is part of baseload, although some weatherization
programs keep water heating measures separated from baseload measures.
Baseload does show some variation throughout the year. Lights and water
heaters are on more in the winter months, and refrigerators, well pumps and
dehumidifiers use more in the summer months.
Baseload is usually figured by looking at the previous 12 months electricity use,
taking the lowest three months, calculating the average monthly use for that
period and multiplying it by 12 months to get the annual baseload use.
Why do we look at Baseload?
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The greater the use, the greater the savings potential. If the baseload use is low,
the savings potential for reducing baseload use is low. If the baseload use is
high, the savings potential for reducing baseload use is high.
Baseload use is affected by the number of people in the household, the size and
efficiency of the lighting and appliances and strongly by the habits of the people
using the lighting and appliances.
Some people use more electricity for their lighting and appliances than they do
for their heating and air conditioning.
Occupant education is a key to a successful Baseload program. Putting costs on
behaviors is very important.
What is the savings potential for Baseload work?
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
Each household needs to be addressed specifically because lighting and
appliance use is so site specific.
If a household of four without an electric water heater uses more than 600 kWh a
month, there is a good chance the baseload can be reduced.
If a household of four with an electric water heater uses more than 1,000 kWh a
month, there is a good chance the baseload can be reduced.
1
Baseload Program Savings Results
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PA Statewide Baseload Savings for 2000 (the latest available) was 7.5% with an
annual electric bill reduction of $76.
PPL, 1999 through 2001: 9% average savings.
Met-Ed and Penelec, 1999 through 2002: Low electricity users saved about 4%,
middle users saved about 5% and higher users saved about 12%. Higher users
save more because savings follows waste.
NJ Comfort Partners: 787 kWh/yr average per program participant.
Ohio’s EPP had 12% to 18% for their Baseload program through 2003.
Early baseload programs (1992, 1993), like Duquesne Light’s, had very high
savings, between 27% and 37%. This is probably due to the very high numbers
of old refrigerators that were still in homes during that time.
How do we focus our efforts to reduce electric Baseload use?
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Savings follows use. People have appliances and lighting that use electricity all
year round. Some families use these things very little and some families use
them a lot.
Familiarity with low, mid and high use ranges helps focus efforts.
Annual End Use Consumption Ranges (kWh)
End Use
Domestic hot water
Refrigerator
Clothes dryer
Indoor lighting
Air conditioning
Cooking
Clothes washer
Television / VCR / DVD
Outdoor lighting
Space heating motors
Miscellaneous
Dishwasher
Stereo, other electronics
Hair dryer / curling iron
Subtotals

Low
1200
500
400
300
300
200
125
150
50
50
100
100
75
25
3,600
Mid
3500
900
900
900
500
400
300
350
250
250
200
200
200
50
9,000
High
6000
1500
1200
1200
750
750
700
600
500
500
400
350
300
75
15,000
A good “cost per use” chart can help the weatherization contractor assign costs
on appliance behaviors. If the contractor knows the wattage of an appliance, and
also knows how long or how often an appliance is used, she/he can calculate the
approximate cost to use the appliance.
2
HOW TO DO A BASELOAD AUDIT
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Before the visit, review electrical billing information. Is the history complete?
How do the daily, monthly and annual averages compare? What is the pattern?
When in the home, start with what the occupant knows about their home, and
energy use. Can they tell you what they think are the major energy uses? Can
they describe changes to occupancy or equipment?
The biggest energy users offer the greatest savings opportunities. Identify 5
major electricity uses—quickly. 50 to 60% of usage often occurs in only 5 end
uses.
Analyze electric use. What size is the load? Is this a low, mid or high use
home? Notice all appliances. Pay attention to the big users. How much do they
run? Are there control or operations issues (like the refrigerator being too cold or
the dryer timer is bad)? Determine occupancy and usage patterns. Construct a
monthly baseload. Estimate seasonal uses. Compare annual estimates to
actual. Check monthly use. Keep looking if necessary.
REMEMBER:
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The number of occupants noticeably impacts electric energy use.
Buildings, people, and related energy flows are interconnected and often
surprising.
Personal standards of comfort and convenience vary.
We don’t know what we don’t know. Sometimes the best we can do is
guesstimate.
3
ELECTRIC BILL ANALYSIS
The monthly cost of operating lights and some appliances can be calculated
by multiplying:
Watts x hours used per month x .001 kiloWatts per Watt.
Then, take kilowatts per Watt x electricity cost per kiloWatt hour (kWh) =
cost per month for that appliance.
Example: Three one hundred watt light bulbs that are on for an average of five hours
per day will cost:
300W x 5 hr/day x 30 days/month x .001 kW/W x $.085 /kWh = $3.83 per month
Another way to look at this same thing is:
Wattage of the appliance x hours per month used x .001 = kWh per month for
that appliance.
kWh per month x the cost per kWh = cost per month to use that appliance.
Example: Three one hundred watt light bulbs that are on for an average of five
hours per day will cost:
300W x 5 hrs/day x 30 days /month x .001 = 45 kWh per month. 45 x .085
= $3.83 per month.
If the appliance label is missing the wattage information but lists the amps and volts, the
watts can be calculated this way:
Watts = Amps x Volts (110 or 220)
4
More on Electric Bill Analysis
In most cases, the energy charged for on the bill can be accounted for by identifying
(and measuring with a device such as the Brultech, when necessary) the size of the
loads and multiplying them by the time they are on over a month. Bill analysis
(disaggregation) is the process of figuring out the relative share of the monthly use of
each appliance.
Example: Household has 3 occupants, electric hot water, does cold water laundry.
Main Appliances
Refrigerator
Hot water
Clothes dryer
Well pump
TV
Miscellaneous
Estimated
KWh
/month
Use Details
Auto defrost; 14-16 cu ft
100 kWh/tank; 300/occupant
5 loads/week @2.6 kWh
(200W; 3 hr/day; 30 days)
lights, clocks, coffee maker,
VCR
Estimated Monthly Total
Actual Monthly Bill
Est. monthly cost
@ $.085/kWh
150
400
56
20
18
75
$12.75
$34.00
$ 4.76
$ 1.70
$ 1.53
$ 6.38
719
$61.12
770
$61.60
Some loads are so small--electric clocks, four Watt night lights-- that even if they are
connected 24 hours a day, the effect on the bill is quite small. On the other hand, an
electric welder with a demand of 30-40 kW may also have a trivial impact on the electric
bill if it is not used but a few minutes per month. Medium and large loads that are
connected all the time are the ones that usually make the largest difference. In
most dwellings, refrigerators and hot water heaters account for a large percentage of
the load. Air conditioners in the summer and forced air furnace fans, space heaters,
and electric heat in the winter account for extra consumption whose magnitudes can be
estimated by studying the billing history.
The principle points of interest on the bill are:
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Monthly electric use (in kWh)
Number of days in the billing
period
Estimated or actual meter reading
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Cost per kWh
Energy use summaries and
comparisons: daily, monthly or annual
Weather and energy use comparisons
Of course there will be times when the usage on the bill and the appliances in the house
just don’t match. The following list is a series of prompts to aid in investigating, problemsolving and understanding unexplained high use.
5
Possible Reasons for High Electric Use
 Major hot water leaks (any water leakage, if a water pump is present)
 Extra lighting, perhaps outside, perhaps for growing plants, and all lighting that is
left on continuously
 Freezers as well as refrigerators (there may be more than one)
 Medical equipment, perhaps being used to sustain life
 Portable appliances that might not be in the house all of the time
 Broken appliances that run for 24 hours a day; people that leave stereos or other
appliances on 24 hours/day
 Heavy-duty battery chargers
 Ventilation equipment with lots of operating time
 Seasonal loads for heating--electric blankets, bathrooms, entries, porches,
crawlspaces, pump houses, out-buildings, heat tape, stock tank/chicken coop,
block heater…
 Seasonal loads for cooling--swimming pool heater & pumps, dehumidifier, fans,
extra refrigerator, sump pump
 Damaged waterbed heaters
 Failing motors
 Dehumidifiers operating to over dry
 Heaters in crawl spaces
 Ovens or stove tops used for space heating
 Ice makers running but no water hooked up to them
 Washers that always use hot water because cold water is not supplied
6
ELECTRIC ENERGY TERMS
A MINI-GLOSSARY
Btu – British thermal unit is the energy needed to raise a pound of water 1 degree F.
There are 3,412 Btu in a kWh of electricity. 1 Btu is about equal to the energy given off as
a wooden kitchen match burns.
Million Btu’s – roughly the energy equivalent of a person year of labor; or one billionth of a
quadrillion (Quad) A Quad is 106 * 109 = 1015 Btu, or a million billion Btu.
Watt (W) – a unit of electrical power developed in a circuit by a current of one ampere flowing
through a potential difference of one volt; also used to express the rate of demand of a
light or appliance, for example the heater in a refrigerator that operates during a defrost
cycle typically demands between 200 and 400 Watts.
MegaWatt (MW) – a million watts; power plants are sized by the number of megawatts they
produce.
Wattage – the amount of watts required to operate a given electrical device and displayed on
rating plates
Watt hour (Wh) – the unit of electrical energy, or work, equal to one watt acting for one hour
Watts = amps x volts
kiloWatt (kW) = 1000 watts; a unit of instantaneous demand or power. For example: An electric
space heater rated at 1,500 watts (1.5 kW), operated for 1 hour (hr) has a demand of 1.5
kW and consumes 1.5 kilowatt-hour (kWh) of electrical energy (1.5 kW x 1 hour = 1.5
kWh)
kiloWatt hour (kWh) – the unit of electrical energy displayed on bills and household electric
meters, equal to one thousand watts acting for one hour, or 3,412 British thermal units
(Btu). If the heater mentioned above were to be on for 120 hours a month (about 4 hrs
per day) it would still have a demand of 1.5 kW, but the energy consumed would increase
to 180 kWh (1.5 kW x 120 hrs = 180 kWh)
Meters such as the BrulTechTM or Line LoggerTM can display instantaneous watts and
voltage, as well as recording kiloWatt hours used in the metering period.
volt – the unit of electromotive force or difference in potential between two points in an electric
field. Electric utilities typically provide 120/240 volt service to residential circuits. Heavy
duty equipment and appliances (baseboard heaters, central air conditioning, water
heaters, clothes dryers, kitchen range and some shop equipment) need 240 volts. An
average of 117 volts of alternating current (117Vac) is supplied to the “120” line serving
outlets. Low voltage (around 105 Vac) can harm motors and compressors.
ampere (amp) – the unit for measuring the strength of an electric current; describes the rate of
flow of the charge
7
Basic Tools for Assessing Residential Electric Energy Use
In addition to information gleaned from the household, worksheets and handouts, some tools
and materials are needed to do Baseload/ Electric Audits. Here is a beginning list:
1. Clipboard for customer to use during house tour.
2. Flashlight (for looking at refrigerator coils, into furnaces, AC units, water heater/equipment labels
and other murky places)
3. Extra batteries for flashlights
4. Ladder (for reaching overhead light fixtures and attic installed central AC units)
5. Vacuum cleaner with a long hose and a brush (for coil cleaning and cleaning up any mess made
while looking around. Small wet/dry is good)
6. Refrigerator coil cleaning brush (available at appliance stores)
7. Measuring tape (to size appliances and doorways for refrigerator or water heater replacement)
8. Room Thermometer (for checking refrigerator and kitchen room temperatures)
9. High temperature thermometer (for testing water temperature)
10. Microweir® or container and watch with a second hand or timer (for measuring water flow of
showerheads and faucets)
11. Drip gauge for measuring water leaks
12. KiloWatt hour (kWh) monitors for checking refrigerator and other appliance usage
13. SureTest® Circuit Analyzer (Like a stress test EKG; Puts a 15 amp load on a circuit to see how it
performs. If voltage drops more than 5%, there’s a problem between the circuit breaker box and
the plug)
14. 3 prong adapters (for appliances or receptacles with only 2 prongs)
15. Kitchen timer (for timing exactly one hour for the kWh meter and for timing unplug time depending
on local protocol)
16. Inspection mirror (to see under refrigerators, up walls, inside ducts and air handlers)
17. Razor knife or scissors (to cut the filter material)
18. Hand wipes or Purell antibacterial hand cleaner
19. Screw drivers (for removing filter, water heater covers), pliers, or a multipurpose tool like a
Leatherman®
20. Cardboard, carpet sample or towel to kneel on when checking appliances
21. Small slippery rug to aid in sliding refrigerator out
22. Appliance electrical cord (in case the refrigerator cord is hard to get to more than once)
23. Extension cord(s) for vacuum cleaner &/or easy access with kWh meter
24. Gloves (filter material is very hard on the hands & bulbs can be hot)
25. Ear plugs (while vacuuming)
26. Face masks (some old filters hold harmful deposits that should not be breathed)
27. Tool box (to carry some of the above)
MATERIALS
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
Many CFL’s of all sorts, wattages and sizes
Tall lamp shade harps (to accommodate larger CFL’s)
Socket extenders (to extend CFL’s where the globe or shade restricts use)
Threaded extenders (to lengthen distance from sockets to diffuser for ceiling fixtures)
Showerheads, aerators and Teflon tape
Waterbed mattress replacement sample
Waterbed mattress pad (or a picture of one)
Roll of 1" by 25", 1/2" by 25", and foam air conditioner type washable filter material (available at
HVAC supply stores)
9. Water heater & pipe insulation, tape & straps
8
Electrical Appliance Metering Equipment
This is a list of Watt meters that can be used to meter refrigerators and other appliances
and electrical equipment.
Watts Up? Pro
www.professionalequipment.com
Kill A Watt
www.p3international.com
ECM-1200
www.brultech.com
EML 2000
www.electricitymetering.com
Plug Logger
www.dentinstruments.com
Watt Stopper
www.wattstopper.com
8a
What does my energy bill pay for?
* "Other" represents an array of household products, including stoves, ovens, microwaves, and
small appliances. Individually, these products account for no more than about 2% of a
household's energy bills.
Source: http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=products.pr_pie&layout=print
9
Typical Cost per Use Based on $.085 per kWh
Use
Time, Quantity or Cycle
Cost
Shower
Shower
Bath
Per minute, 6 gallons per min. head
Per minute, 2.5 gpm head
Per inch (equals 5 gals)
8 cents
3 cents
5 cents
Hair dryer, 1500 watts
Curling iron
Per hour
Per hour
13 cents
Less than 1 cent
Laundry, hot wash and rinse
Laundry, warm wash and rinse
Laundry, cold wash and rinse
Laundry, hot wash, cold rinse
Laundry, warm wash, cold rinse
Dryer, 1 load
Per load
Per load
Per load
Per load
Per load
45 minutes
72 cents
54 cents
4 cents
40 cents
31 cents
23 cents
Dishes
Dishwasher
Dripping hot water faucet
By hand, water running
Each load
1 drop per second
36 cents
27 cents
80 cents a day
Waterbed heater
per day, average
43 cents
Drip coffee maker
Drip coffee maker
Crock pot
Toaster oven
Microwave
Range, stove top
Range, oven
one pot, brew cycle
one pot, warmer, each hour
3 hours
40 minutes
10 minutes
30 minutes
1 hour, 350 degrees
2 cents
1 cents
6 cents
9 cents
2 cents
4 cents
18 cents
Window air conditioner
Window air conditioner
Box window fan
Ceiling fan, no lights
Attic fan
8,000 BTU, 4 hours
24,000 BTU, 4 hours
7 hours
7 hours
7 hours
17 cents
68 cents
14 cents
4 cents
34 cents
100 watt incandescent bulb
100 watt incandescent bulb
27 watt fluorescent bulb (equals 100)
27 watt fluorescent bulb (equals 100)
10 hours
100 hours
10 hours
100 hours
9 cents
85 cents
2 cents
21 cents
Space heater, 1500 watt
Space heater, 1500 watt
Dehumidifier
Furnace blower motor/fan, 1/2 H.P.
Furnace burner motor
Hot water circulating pump
1 hour
8 hours
24 hours
8 hours
8 hours
8 hours
per day
per day
14 cents*
$1.02*
45 cents
33 cents
29 cents
26 cents
19 cents
10 cents
Water pump, shallow well
Water pump, deep well
per day
per day
8 cents
15 cents
Computer
Printer (wattage varies from 3 - 300 watts)
Fax machine (wattage varies form 15 to 500.)
TV, color
Fish tank, 50 gals, with light filter and heater
1 hour
3 cents
Varies
Cost is low
13 cents
16 cents
6 hours
per day
* Each degree the heater thermostat is setback saves 1% of the heating cost. If it is a turndown due to a
more comfortable home, each degree the thermostat is turned down saves 3% of the heat costs.
10
Source: Niagara Mohawk. “Home Energy Tips:
Cost of Operating Home Appliances.”
11
12
Source: John Krigger and Chris Dorsi 2004.. “Residential Energy: Cost Savings and Comfort for
Existing Buildings”. Saturn Resource Management, Inc. Helena, MT.
13
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Sample PPL Bill
This is an example of a current PPL Electric bill. Please note that the cost per kWh
changes as the usage increases. (The bill sample on PPL’s website,
www.pplelectric.com, does not use the current kWh charges, so it cannot be used as an
example)
At 200 kWh, PPL’s price is about 9.27 cents ($.0927) per kWh.
At 800 kWh, the price goes down a bit.
Someone using 2,000 kWh pays about 8 cents ($.08) per kWh.
The average use per kWh used in for this presentation and handouts is 8.5 cents
($.085) per kWh (customer charge not included).
15
16
17
Typical Wattages for End Uses
End Use
Typical
Wattage
Air conditioner, central
Air conditioner, room
Air filter
Appliance timer
3,000 to 4,500
850 - 2,000
60
2
Aquarium heater
Bathroom fan, high efficiency
Bathroom fan, standard
Battery charger
Blender
Block heater
Box fan
Bread maker
Can opener
CD player
Ceiling fan
Circular saw
Circulator pump
Clock radio
Clothes dryer
100
15
75
100
380
600 - 1,500
75
600
100
12
150
1,150
105
4
4,500 – 5,500
Clothes washer, cold water
Coffee maker
Computer and monitor
Computer, laptop
CPAP
Crock pot
Curling iron
Dehumidifier
Digital satellite system
Dishwasher
DVD player
Electric blanket
Electric space heater
Fax machine
Food dehydrator
Food processor
Freezer
Furnace fan
360
1,500 brew, 50
warm
200 – 250 each
54
12
100
40
250 – 400
14
450 – 1,200
14
175
1,500
500
875
690
330 - 600
190 – 375
End Use
Garage door opener
Garbage disposal
Halogen torchiere
Hot tub, heater and
pump
Humidifier, no heater
Iron
Juicer
Microwave oven
Mixer
Oil burner
Oxygen concentrator
Pressure cooker
Printer, desk jet
Printer, laser jet
Radon fan
Range stove top
Range, oven
Refrigerator
Refrigerator ice maker
heater
Roof and gutter cable
Sander
Scanner
Security light, HPS
Security light, mercury
Sump pump
Table saw
Toaster
Toaster oven
TV, big screen, 48”
TV, solid state
TV, tube type
Vacuum cleaner
Video games
Water heater
Waterbed heater
Well pump
Whole house fan
Typical
Wattage
230
420
300
5,560
120
1,000 – 1,600
90
1450
120
450
420 – 575
1,300
48
300
15 to 150
1,600 – 2,100
3,500
450 – 625
700
7 watts / foot
290
100
70
175
200
1,380
1,150
1,200
250
100
210
350
80
4,500
150 - 300
1,000
500
18
Useful Energy Related Websites
Page Name
Web Address
Affordable Comfort
www.affordablecomfort.org
Alliance to Save Energy
www.ase.org
American Council for an Energy-Efficient Economy
www.aceee.org
American Society of Heating, Refrigerating and AirConditioning Engineers
American Solar Energy Society
www.ashrae.org
Association of Home Appliance Manufacturers
www.aham.org
Brultech Research Inc.
www.brultech.com
Builder's Best
www.buildersbest.com
Building Performance Contractors Association
www.home-performance.org
California Energy Commission Appliance Information
www.energy.ca.gov/efficiency/appliances
California Energy Commission Consumer Energy
Center
Center for Renewable Energy & Sustainable
Technology
Center for Resource Solutions
www.consumerenergycenter.org
Center for Resourceful Building Technology
www.crbt.org
Clean Air Council
www.cleanair.org
Consumer Federation of America Foundation
www.buyenergyefficient.org
Consumer Product Safety Commission
www.cpsc.gov
Consumer Reports Online
www.consumerreports.org
Ecobuild.com
www.ecobuild.com
Energy Coordinating Agency of Philadelphia, Inc.
www.ecasavesenergy.org
Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy Network
(EREN)
Energy Federation Incorporated
www.eren.doe.gov
Energy Information Administration
www.eia.doe.gov
Energy Star Program
www.energystar.gov
ENERGYguide.com
www.energyguide.com
Environmental Building News
www.buildinggreen.com
Environmental Protection Agency
www.epa.gov
Florida Solar Energy Center
www.fsec.ucf.edu
Green Mountain Energy
www.greenmountain.com
Home Energy Magazine
www.homeenergy.org
HowStuffWorks
www.howstuffworks.com
James Dulley
www.dulley.com
www.ases.org
www.crest.org
www.green-e.org
www.energyfederation.org
19
Useful Energy Related Websites, Continued
Page Name
Web Address
Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory
www.lbl.gov
National Center for Photovoltaics
www.nrel.gov/ncpv
National Wind Coordinating Committee
www.nationalwind.org
Natural Resources Defense Council
www.nrdc.org
New York State Energy & Research Development Corp.
www.nyserda.org
North Carolina Solar Center
www.ncsc.ncsu.edu/
Northeast Sustainable Energy Association
www.nesea.org
PennFuture
www.pennfuture.org
Pennsylvania Housing Research Center
www.engr.psu.edu/phrc
Pennsylvania Public Utility Commission
puc.paonline.com
Pennsylvania Weatherization Training Center
www.pct.edu/wtc
Philadelphia Million Solar Roofs
www.phillysolar.org
Popular Mechanics
www.popularmechanics.com
PPL Energy Depot
audit.pplweb.com/energyaudit/index.asp
Preston's Guide
www.prestonguide.com
PrimeNet
www.ariprimenet.org
Professional Equipment
www.professionalequipment.com
Pure Energy
www.amberwaves.com/pure/energy
Real Goods
www.realgoods.com
Repair Clinic
www.repairclinic.com
Rocky Mountain Institute
www.rmi.org
Sandia National Laboratory
www.sandia.gov
Solar Energy International
www.solarenergy.org
Terry Brennan
www.camroden.com
The Energy Cooperative
www.theenergycoop.com
The Solar Energy Industries Association
www.seia.org
The Sustainable Buildings Institute
www.sbicouncil.org/home/index.html
The Warm Company
www.warmcompany.com
U.S. Environmental Protection Agency
www.epa.gov
Weatherization Assistance Program Technical
Assistance Center
www.waptac.org
20
Water Heaters
Water Heaters
1
Electric Water Heaters
How electric water heaters work
Electric water heaters are usually wired for 240 volts and have one or two electric
elements, each with its own thermostat. If the water heater has two elements, the one
on the bottom is the standby element that maintains the minimum setting on its
thermostat. The element at the top of the tank is the demand element that heats water
to provide quick recovery of usable hot water when a lot of hot water is being used. The
elements are wired so they can’t work at the same time.
Water heaters use energy in three ways: demand, standby and distribution.
•
Demand means energy is used to bring the cold incoming water up to
temperature in the water heater. Demand energy depends on water heater
efficiency, occupant behavior and consumption of fixtures like showerheads,
clothes washers and dishwasher.
Water Heaters
2
•
Standby energy is the heat lost through the water heater’s walls. Standby losses
amount to 20% to 60% of the total water heating energy.
•
Distribution losses consist of heat escaping though the pipes and fixtures. Pipes
near the water heater lose heat even when hot water isn’t being used as hot
water rises out of the water heater, cools and falls back into the tank.
Hot water use in the U.S.
The average household uses around 3,500 kWh annually to heat water. The energy
used to heat water varies widely according to the number of occupants, water heater
capacity, water heater energy factor (EF) and climate.
U.S. citizens use 15 to 40 gallons of hot water per day per person.
________________________________
Water Heaters
3
How to save electricity with an existing water heater
Energy efficient retrofits to existing water heating systems follow three strategies:
1. Reduce the use or waste of hot water by fixing leaks, use pressure reducing
valves, install water saving showerheads and faucet aerators
2. Reduce standby losses from the tank and pipes by insulating the tank and pipes,
install heat traps, water heater timers and lowering the water temperature
3. Reduce distribution losses through pipes and fittings by minimizing the length
and diameter of piping
Water Leak
1
Drop per second
=
1/2 cup per minute
=
Almost 2 gallons/hour
=
45 gallons/day
=
16,425 gallons/year
Heated from 50º to 150º F @ 9¢ kWh, this costs $277/year.
W.H setback of 5º yields 3% savings.
Supply water may be 10º colder in winter.
________________________________
Cost of a Load of Laundry *
Wash/Rinse
Settings
kWh used
Avg. Cost per Load
(cents)
Water Heater Thermostat Set at 140º F
Hot / Hot
Hot / Warm
Hot / Cold
Warm / Warm
Warm / Cold
Cold / Cold
8.3
6.3
4.3
4.3
2.3
0.4
66
50
34
34
18
3
Water Heater Thermostat Set at 120º F
Hot / Hot
Hot / Warm
Hot / Cold
Warm / Warm
Warm / Cold
Cold / Cold
6.5
4.9
4.3
3.4
1.9
0.4
52
39
27
27
15
3
* Assumes 8¢ per kWh.
Water Heaters
4
Approximate Savings: Hot-Water Retrofits
Electricity
(kWh)
Gas
(Therms)
Reduce tank temperature
100 - 200
4–8
Exterior insulation blanket
150 - 450
4 – 16
Water-saving shower head
200 - 400
8 – 14
Heat traps
100 - 250
4 – 10
Retrofit
Source: Home Energy Magazine, Oak Ridge National
Laboratory, Pacific Northwest Laboratory, and others.
________________________________
Source: UGI
________________________________
Buying a new water heater
If the water heater leaks, it should be replaced immediately. There are three types of
efficiencies used to rate new water heating systems:
•
The energy factor, or EF
•
The recovery efficiency
•
Overall system efficiency
Energy Factor: When buying a new water heater, choose one with an Energy Factor
(EF) of at least .90. The Energy Factor assumes that residents use 64 gallons per day
and accounts for energy losses during the water heating process and through the tank.
Water Heaters
5
The numerical value of the EF describes the fraction of the water heater’s energy input
that actually remains in the water leaving the storage tank. In 2004, the current required
minimum EF is .90 for electric water heaters.
Recovery efficiency accounts for just the losses during the water heating process.
Overall system efficiency includes all the losses and measures the efficiency of the
water heater and its distribution system in providing heated water to points of use.
Water heaters are not Energy Star rated but Energy Guide labels are posted. The EF is
on the water heater label.
________________________________
Gama Water Heater Sizing Tool
Peak Hourly Hot Water Demand
Avg. Gallons
Times Used
Gal. Used
Hot Water
in Hour
in Hour
Per Usage
_______________________________________________________________________
Showering
20
x
_________
=
_________
Bathing
20
x
_________
=
_________
Shaving
2
x
_________
=
_________
Washing hands and face
2
x
_________
=
_________
Shampooing hair
4
x
_________
=
_________
Hand dishwashing
4
x
_________
=
_________
Automatic dishwashing
12
x
_________
=
_________
Preparing food
5
x
_________
=
_________
Automatic clothes washing
32
x
_________
=
_________
For example, if your family’s expected greatest hot water use is in the morning, the total
might be:
3 showers
1 shave
Hand-wash dishes
20
2
4
x
x
x
3
1
1
=
=
=
60 gallons/hr.
2 gallons/hr.
4 gallons/hr.
Peak hour demand
=
66 gallons/hr.
_____________________________________________________________________
Source: Gas Appliance Manufacturers Association and ACEEE estimates.
_____________________________________________________________________
Source: D&R International, Ltd. 2003. Incorporating Water Heater Replacement into the
Weatherization Assistance Program: Information Tool Kit.
Water Heaters
6
Water Heater Dating Chart
Manufacturer
Trade Names
American
ACE, American, American
Hardware, America's Best,
Apex, Aqua Temp, AquaTherm,
Aquamatic, Best, Best Deluxe,
Champion, Craftmaster, DeLimer, Deluxe, Eagle, The
Earl's Energy Conservation
Water Heater, The Earl's
Energy Saver Plus,
Envirotemp, Four Most,
Hotmaster, Hotstream, KingKleen, King-Line, Master
Plumber, Nationaline, Neptune,
Penquin, Premier Plus, Premier
Plus Self Cleaning Prestige,
ProLine and ProLine Plus,
Quaker, Quick-Flo, Raywall,
Revere, Riveria, Sands,
Sentinal, Servi-Star, Shamrock,
Special Deluxe, Standard,
Super Eagle, Super-Flo,
Supreme, Sure-Fire, ThoroClean, Tru-Test, Tru Value,
U.S. Supply, XCL Energy Saver
Apollo Comfort
Products
Apollo
Bradford-White
Bradford White, JetGlas
Crispaire
E-tech
GSW Water
Heating
John Wood, GSW, Moffat,
Superflue, Medal
Heat Transfer
Products
Heat Transfer
Lochinvar
Energy Saver, Golden Knight,
Knight
Marathon
Marathon
Maytag
Maytag
Rheem
Aqua Therm, General Electric,
Hotpoint, Professional, Rheem,
Vanguard, Western Auto
Where to
Look
How to Decode
Example
Serial # –
1st 4 digits
1st 2 digits = year
2nd 2 digits= week
8906xxx = made in
the 6th week of the
year 1989
Serial # –
1st 2
letters
1st letter = year
starting with A as
1984,
2nd letter = month
with January (A)
through
December (M)
JMxxx = made in
the year 1992 (J)
in the month of
December (M)
Serial # –
1st 4 digits
1st & 2nd number
= year,
3rd & 4th number =
month
8901xxx = made in
the year 1989 in
the first month,
January
Serial # –
1st 4 digits
1st & 2nd digit =
month,
3rd & 4th digit =
year
0189xxx = made in
the year 1989 in
the first month,
January
Serial # –
1st 4 digits
1st & 2nd digit =
month,
3rd & 4th digit =
year
0189xxx = made in
the year 1989 in
the first month,
January
Water Heaters
7
Manufacturer
Trade Names
Where to
Look
How to Decode
st
nd
Example
Richmond
Richmond
Serial # –
1st 4 digits
1 & 2 digit =
month,
3rd & 4th digit =
year
0189xxx = made
in the year 1989
in the first month,
January
Ruud
Professional, Ruud
Serial # –
1st 4 digits
1st & 2nd digit =
month,
3rd & 4th digit =
year
0189xxx = made
in the year 1989
in the first month,
January
Sears
Kenmore
A.O. Smith
Water
Products
National, A.O. Smith,
Glascote, Perma-Glas
Serial # –
2nd, 3rd, 4th
characters
2nd position (letter)
= month (A being
January through
M being
December)
3rd & 4th position
(numbers) = year
AJ89xxx = made
in October (J) of
1989
State
Industries
State
Serial # –
1st 3
characters
first letter = month
(A being January
through M, being
December), 2nd
and 3rd position
(numbers) = year
J89xxx = made in
October of 1989
Summit
Manufacturing
Mortex
Sun Therm
U.S.
Craftsmaster
Water Heaters
Ace, American Hardware,
America's Best, Apex, Aqua
Temp, Aqua Therm,
Aquamatic, Best, Best Deluxe,
Craftmaster, De-Limer,
Deluxe, Eagle, The Earl's
Energy Conservation Water
Heater, The Earl's Energy
Saver Plus, Envirotemp, Four
Most, Hotmaster, Hotstream,
King-Kleen, King-Line, Master
Plumber, Nationaline,
Neptune, Penquin, Prestige,
Pro-Line, Pro-Line Plus,
Quaker, Quick-Flo, Raywall,
Revere, Riviera, Sands,
Sentinal, Servistar, Shamrock,
Special Deluxe, Standard,
Supereagle, Super-Flo,
Supreme, Sure-Fire, ThoroClean, True-Test, Tru Value,
U.S. Craftmaster, U.S. Supply,
XCL Energy Saver
Serial # –
1st 4 digits
1st 2 digits = year
2nd 2 digits= week
8924xxx = made
in the 24th week
of the year 1989
Vaugn
Manufacturing
Corp.
Sepco, Hydrohot, D.W.
Whitehead
Source: D&R International, Ltd. 2003. Incorporating Water Heater Replacement into the
Weatherization Assistance Program: Information Tool Kit.
Water Heaters
8
You can make your water heater last far longer than what is typical today. All you need is some
knowledge and some parts and we supply both. We have solutions to your water heater
problems. Save money and have peace of mind. The principles are the same, whether for a 40gallon water heater in your house, a hundred such tanks in apartments, or commercial water
heaters that service many units. Water heater maintenance is an idea whose time has come.
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Solve a problem
Anodes
Sediment
Not enough hot water
Smelly water
Choosing a new heater
Servicing an old one
Commercial heaters
Products for long life
Safety
Fun stuff
Choosing a water heater | Preventive maintenance | Common Issues | Troubleshooting | Products | The Tank
Commercial water heaters | About us | Contact us | Privacy policy | Resources | Site map
©Copyright 1995-2005 by Randy Schuyler • La traducción español • La traduction française
Source: http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/
Water Heaters
9
Here's What We Have For You!
BOOKS
Bricks
Cool Stuff
HeatingHelp Happenings
Seminars at Your Leisure
Super Deals!
back to products
The Water Heater Workbook,
by Larry and Suzanne
Weingarten
Price: $20.00 each
Sku #: 200
Quantity:
1
(Click the orange button to read 13 pages of this book.)
I once visited my friends Larry and Suzanne Weingarten in their home in
beautiful Monterey, California. Larry and Suzanne and I write articles for
some of the same magazines, but their specialty is water heaters. Larry is
also a collector of old books (and a rebuilder of antique water heaters!) so
we had plenty to talk about that day.
At one point, Larry went into his office and came out with a box filled with
the small remnants of several dozen water heaters. He picked up and
examined each part, and then explained to me exactly what had happened
to that particular water heater and how the owner might have avoided the
problem. He did this with the skill of a forensic pathologist and he had the
sort of gleam in his eye that you only see in people who truly love what
they do. This guy knows his stuff! He's into water heaters like I'm into
steam and hydronics. He spends his days working on them and his nights
researching them. It's a passion for him.
Suzanne Weingarten is an educator who enjoys teaching about water
heating. She and Larry co-authored The Water Heater Workbook - A HandsOn Guide to Water Heaters. This book is the very best I have ever found on
water heating. It's packed with information and the illustrations are terrific,
plus there's a great appendix listing sources of supply for materials, and
water heater accessories. All in all, it's one of the most useful, hands-on
books I've seen. Don't miss it!
Dan Holohan
Water Heaters 10
Update Bulletin No. 568
www.dulley.com
T
you for
your interest
in writing to me about
high efficiency electric
water heaters. On the
following pages, I have
listed the electric water
heaters that I feel are the
Jim Dulley
best units to buy. Prices
vary by size and design with the “neverleak,” all-plastic models being the most expensive. Select the models from my list that
you are most interested in and then check on
the installed prices with local plumbers.
ing elements in all electric waters heater are
100% efficient. The differences in overall
efficiency and cost to operate
are basically dependent on the
heat loss from the tank. The
level of tank insulation is the
primary factor affecting this.
The standard “energy factor”
(EF) is a comparison of overall
operating costs. The EF (higher
is better) should be listed on all
electric water heaters. You can
use the chart on page 4 to compare operating costs.
When plumbers or salespeople talk to
you about electric water heaters, keep in
mind that, unlike gas water heaters, the heat-
If you plan to stay in your Series12
house for ten years or more, by Maytag
consider lifetime warranty plastic models
hank
Average Gallons
of Hot Water
per Usage
Shower
20
x
Times Used
During
One Hour
____________
Bath
20
x
____________
=
____________
Shaving
2
x
____________
=
____________
Hands & Face Washing
4
x
____________
=
____________
Hair Shampoo
4
x
____________
=
____________
Hand Dishwashing
4
x
____________
=
____________
Automatic Dishwasher
14
x
____________
=
____________
Food Preparation
5
x
____________
=
____________
Clothes Washer
32
x
____________
=
____________
Peak Hour Demand
____________
TOTAL
=
Gallons
Used in
One Hour
____________
To use this chart: Determine during what time of day (morning, noon, evening) the most
hot water is usually used in your home, keeping in mind the number of people that live in
your home. Using the table, determine what your maximum usage of hot water in one hour
could be; this is your peak hour demand. The right size water heater for your needs will be
within one to two gallons of your peak hour demand.
NOTE: This table does not estimate total daily hot water usage. As an example, an average
of 4 gallons of hot water is used each time dishes are washed by hand. On average dishes
washed by hand are done three times a day. The average daily hot water usage for hand
dishwashing, 12 gallons, is about the same as the average hot water usage for an automatic
dishwasher, used once a day.
Example: Your household uses the most hot water in the morning. In the busiest one hour
period of the morning, the uses are: 3 showers/20x3=60, 1 shave/2x1=2, 1 shampoo/4x1=4,
handwashing of dishes/4x1=4, Total Peak Hour Demand = 70 gallons.
(Rheem/Ruud). Maytag offers an optional built-in setback clock thermostat that
allows you to set up to four
different periods and temperatures per day. A.O. Smith
also offers an electronic efficiency/safety control with
four settings (see page 2).
For sizing your new water heater, use the worksheet
below to determine the maximum amount of hot water Marathon
you will need in one hour. by Rheem
Then select a water heater
from my recommended list that
has a larger first hour rating.
Marathon by Rheem/Ruud
Worksheet to Estimate Peak Hour Domestic Hot Water Demand
Use
©2001 James Dulley
energy saving pipe wrap kit
reduces heat loss
temperature and
pressure relief valve
water tight grommets,
keeps out moisture
and condensation
seamless molded nonmetallic inner tank
upper element fused
to protect tank
against dry fire
high-temperature
fill (dip) tube
polyethylene outer
tank resists dents
and scratches
energy saving foam,
made without CFC’s
and HCFC’s
low-watt stainless
steel heating element
fiberglassreinforced tank
recessed drain valve
Helpful Checklist for Electric Water Heater Problems
If your water heater fails to work right, make
the following easy checks. Often, you will find
what's wrong yourself and you won't have to call
and wait for service and hot water. If you do not
find what's wrong when making the checks, call
for service.
Not enough or no hot water — Used more hot
water than the water heater holds, or faster than
the water heater can heat the water. • Hot
water wasted through leaking or partially open
faucet. • If the water heater is newly installed,
check the installation steps to be sure it's installed
correctly. • Make sure the electrical supply is
turned on and that the cold water supply valve is
fully open. • Check for a blown fuse or popped
circuit breaker (circuit breakers weaken with age
and may not handle the rated load). • During
winter months, the colder supply water takes
longer to heat. • The temperature limit switch
may have opened the circuit if water temperature
reached the maximum limit. • Temperature
controls for the heating elements set too low. •
Possible burned out element(s).
Water too hot — Temperature controls for the
heating elements set too high. • Temperature
control thermostat not working.
Water leaks — Always check for condensation
first as the source of the leak. Wipe all wet sur-
faces dry and check again. Also, the temperature and pressure relief valve may have opened
to vent high pressure or temperature. Points to
check on water heater for possible leaks are as
follows — inlet and outlet water fittings, temperature and pressure relief valve connection or
the valve itself, drain valve, or drain valve
threads to tank, and gaskets around heating
element(s).
Note: Improperly installed heat traps could
cause reduced or restricted water flow.
Caution: TURN OFF ELECTRICAL POWER.
Before repairing a leak, turn off the water supply and drain the tank.
www.dulley.com
page 2
Selected Efficient Electric Water Heaters
Company
Address
Telephone No.
Web Site
A.O. Smith
600 E. John Carpenter Fwy. #200
Irving, TX 75038
(800) 527-1953
www.hotwater.com
Model
Conservationist
90
Gallon
Capacity
First Hour
Rating
Energy
Factor
30 gallons
42 gallons
.93
40 gallons
50 gallons
.92
50 gallons
58 gallons
.87
66 gallons
72 gallons
.84
80 gallons
81 gallons
.86
120 gallons
115 gallons
.83
Tank
Warranty
Parts
Warranty
Insulation
Type
10 years
10 years
2"- 2 1/2"
foam
Features - Four control setting options include normal, scald-resistent, energy saver, and vacation/cabin. On the normal setting the user selects the
temperature. On scald-resistant mode the control automatically adjusts to a water temperature to prevent scalding. Heat cycles are monitored and
automatically modified to provide the lowest water temperature to best suit the users water-use patterns during the energy saver mode. On vacation/cabin
setting the temperature automatically adjusts to 50° F to prevent freezing. Glass lined tank fused to steel provides corrosion protection. Factory installed
Thermotrap fittings inside the tank help reduce heat loss.
American Water Heaters
PO Box 1597
Johnson City, TN 37605
(800) 999-9515
www.americanwaterheater.com
ProLine Plus
40 gallons
50 gallons
.91
50 gallons
58 gallons
.93
66 gallons
73 gallons
.91
80 gallons
89 gallons
.91
12 years
12 years
3" foam
Features - Ceramic-lined tank, fused to the tank's interior surfaces provide a corrosion-resistant lining. T&P relief valve is located on the side of tank, also
available with top T&P opening. Top-mounted anode rod for longer tank life. Brass drain valve. Built-in electric junction box on top of water heater.
Combination thermostat and high limit control allows adjustment of water temperature while preventing overheat protection. Screw-in style, dual 4500
watt incoloy heating elements. Delimer dip tube carries cold water into tank to minimize temperature dilution of hot water and sediment and lime build-up.
Bradford White
725 Talamore Dr.
Amble, PA 19002
(800) 538-2020
www.bradfordwhite.com
Optimizer
40 gallons
61 gallons
.93
50 gallons
71 gallons
.92
65 gallons
71 gallons
.91
80 gallons
90 gallons
.91
10 years
10 years
3" foam
Features - Equipped with two factory installed heat traps. Factory installed nipple. Surface mount thermostat for automatic temperature control. Energy
cut-off prevents heat override. Heavy gauge steel tank with Vitraglas® lining — protects against rust and corrosion. Hydrojet® delivery tube has a series
of concentric jet ports that creates turbulent action inside the tank — the system cleans the tank of harmful deposits every time there's a call for hot water
prolonging tank life. Protective magnesium anode rod anchored in the hot water outlet fitting. Solid brass drain valve. Screw-in style dual 4500 watt
incoloy heating elements. T&P relief valve on top of tank. Top-mounted electrical junction box.
GSW Water Heating Co.
601 Lake Avenue
Racine, WI 53403
(888) 479-8324
www.gsw-wh.com
Series 6
50 gallons
70 gallons
.93
6 years
1 year
1" foam
Features - Double coating of glass on the side seam for extra protection. Self-cleaning Turbulator® creates turbulance in the bottom of the tank to keep
lime particles in suspension and allows them to be flushed out of the tank. Tanksaver® impedes corrosion by bridging the burn back area with stainless
steel so that metal is no longer exposed — extends tank life. Brass drain valve. Dual low density stainless steel heating element. Automatic elements
and controls. Special heat retention base. Double anode rod.
Maytag
PO Box 2481
Newport News, VA 23609
(800) 360-8807
www.maytag.com
40 gallons
50 gallons
.92
50 gallons
61 gallons
.93
50 gallons
60 gallons
.91
80 gallons
86 gallons
.91
Series 12
12 years
12 years
3" foam
Features - The Jetforce™ cold water inlet tube creates turbulence to keep sediment from settling to the bottom of the tank. Factory-installed T&P relief
valve. Steel tank with polymer lining. The lower element can be wired for 3800 or 5500 watts Hinged front panel for easy access to adjustable upper and
lower thermostats. Drain valve cannot rust, covered to help prevent accidental damage. Special energy-saving fittings on cold inlet and hot outlet.
Models available with programmable control module that lets you program the water heater to deliver hot water at the temperature you select during
demand periods. Adjustable between 70° and 160° F allows for manual override during unexpected demand hours. Display panel shows hot water
temperature at all times and displays "scald warning" when water is too hot. The control module can be installed next to the homes thermostat or another
loaction away from the water heater.
Reliance
500 Lindahl Pkwy
Ashland City, TN 37015
(800) 807-7014
Sta-Kleen
Lifetime
40 gallons
53 gallons
.89
50 gallons
61 gallons
.92
82 gallons
81 gallons
.89
lifetime
lifetime
2-1/2" foam
Features - 40 and 50 gallon models come in tall, medium or lowboy, 82 gallon only in tall. Above first hour ratings are for tall models. Two heating
elements have wattage of 3800 or 5500 and are individually contolled. Reliance Sta-Kleen models are self-cleaning to automatically reduce sediment and
lime build-up. Steel tank with polymer lining.
www.dulley.com
page 3
Selected Efficient Electric Water Heaters
Company
Address
Telephone No.
Web Site
Model
Marathon
Rheem/Rudd
2600 Gunter Park Dr. E.
Montgomery, AL 36109
(800) 621-5622
www.rheem.com
Standard - Rheem
Pacemaker - Ruud
Gallon
Capacity
First Hour
Rating
Energy
Factor
40 gallons
52 gallons
.94
50 gallons
61 gallons
.94
85 gallons
91 gallons
.92
105 gallons
104 gallons
.91
30 gallons
45 gallons
.90
40 gallons
56 gallons
.91
50 gallons
61 gallons
.92
65 gallons
71 gallons
.91
80 gallons
88 gallons
.90
Tank
Warranty
Parts
Warranty
Insulation
Type
lifetime
5 years
3" foam
10 years
6 years
2-1/2" foam
Features - Marathon tank combines seamless plastic inner tank reinforced with a filament wound fiberglass outer tank. Will not rust or corrode. Will not
leak. Outer jacket of polyethylene. Plastic tank elminates need for anode rod. Heat traps reduce conductive heat loss. Bowl-shaped bottom allows more
complete sediment draining. Recessed brass drain valve. Pipe wrap energy kit is included to reduce heat loss from plumbing lines. The Standard and
Pacemaker moedls are furnished with 4500 watt upper and lower heat elements. There are a limited number of special wiring options available. Models
come with an automatic thermostat to keep water at desired temeperature. The electric junction box is located over the heat elements for easy installation.
The isolated tank design of the Standard and Pacemaker models reduces conductive heat loss.
Sears
3333 Beverly Rd.
Hoffman Estates, IL 60179
(800) 549-4505
www.sears.com
Power Miser 12
30 gallons
44 gallons
.93
40 gallons
52 gallons
.93
50 gallons
61 gallons
.92
66 gallons
75 gallons
.91
80 gallons
86 gallons
.91
12 years
12 years
3" foam
Features - Power Miser 12 has an indicator light that shows when the upper element is on, limited or no hot water available. Self-cleaning cold water inlet
tube, with a 90-degree bend and half circle on the end creates a swirling action to minimize mineral build-up in tank. External temperature adjustment
knob. Factory installed heat traps and T&P relief valve. The first hour ratings listed above are for 3800-watt elements. Optional 5500-watt elements
provide about 4 to 5 more gallons.
State Industries
500 Lindahl Pkwy.
Ashland City, TN 37015
(800) 365-0024
www.stateind.com
Select
30 gallons
45 gallons
.89
40 gallons
52 gallons
.88
50 gallons
62 gallons
.90
66 gallons
76 gallons
.84
80 gallons
87 gallons
.83
6 years
6 years
2-1/2" foam
Features - Patented self-cleaning dip tube features multiple jet ports that automatically create self-cleaning turbulence, particularly in the bottom of the
tank. This reduces sediment build-up and prolongs tank life. Screw-in style 4500 watt heating elements — maximum output. Exterior adjustable control
knob. Polymer composite lining is bonded to steel tank. Cold water inlet tubes (dip tube) made from Everlast Blue™ cross link polyethylene polymer that
can withstand temperatures up to 400°F. All models have male inlet and outlet connections on the side. Energy-saving heat traps on inlet and outlet.
Everlast Blue™ PEX T&P valve discharge pipe included with 3/4" threaded coupling, trims with utility knife. Screws easily into T&P valve, eliminates need
for cutting copper, sweating connection. Nylon drain valve. Warranty extension kits available that allow purchaser to extend tank warranty. 10-year kits
contain a secondary anode assembly and cold water nipple with Silencer heat traps. State offers tall, medium, lowboy and tabletop models.
US Craftmaster (AWH)
1100 E. Fairview Ave.
Johnson City, TN 37605
(800) 937-1037
10-Year
Self-Cleaning
40 gallons
50 gallons
.91
50 gallons
55 gallons
.90
65 gallons
73 gallons
.87
80 gallons
89 gallons
.91
10 years
10 years
2" foam
Features - Mineral particles receive a magnetic charge as they pass through the LimeFighter™ magnets. Once charged, the particles tend to stay
suspended instead of settling into sediment. Ceramic-lined tank, fused to the tank's interior to provide a corrosion-resistant lining. Adjustable temperature
controls. Screw-in style incoloy heating elements.
Vaughn Mfg. Co.
PO Box 5431
Salisbury, MA 01952
(800) 282-8446
(978) 462-6683
www.vaughncorp.com
Hydrastone
Plus Foam
30 gallons
40 gallons
.92
40 gallons
54 gallons
.91
50 gallons
61 gallons
.92
60 gallons
68 gallons
.89
70 gallons
76 gallons
.88
80 gallons
82 gallons
.90
10 years
10 years
2" foam
Features - Heavy gauge steel with seamless one half inch thick hydrastone lining, prevents tank failure due to corrosion. Plastic outer jacket is rust free.
Cold water inlet diffuser introduces cold water at bottom of tank, prevents turbulent mixing with heated water. Large 4-inch gasketed hand hole cleanout
option, easy access to clean out mineral build-up available in 40 gallon and above. Heat trap placed within the foam insulation, prevents heat loss.
Bronze fittings at all water openings eliminates corrosion, due to dissimilar metals. No dielectric unions or anode rod required. Low watt (4500-watt)
density, copper flanged heating elements for reduced mineral build-up. Adjustable thermostats with built-in high temperature protection.
www.dulley.com
How an Electric Water Heater Works
from Reliance
3
Estimated Annual Operating Costs (in $)
for Electric Water Heaters
Energy Factor
Fuel Cost (¢ per kWh)
page 4
When needed, hot water leaves the
water heater through the hot water outlet
and cold water enters through the cold water
inlet. Most electric water heaters have one
heating element extending into the tank.
Two-element models have a second upper
element. Each element is controlled by its
own thermostat. When the lower
thermostat senses water temperature
dropping, it heats the water until the
thermostat registers the desired
temperature. The lower heating element
handles most of the water heating load. The
upper element operates only when water
in the top of the tank cools, and needs a
temperature boost. The drain valve at the
bottom of the tank opens manually when
needed for periodic maintenance.
2
1
.80
.82
.84
.86
.88
.90
.92
.94
.96
.98
3.5¢
192
187
183
179
175
171
167
163
160
157
4.0¢
220
214
209
204
200
195
191
187
183
179
4.5¢
247
241
235
230
225
220
215
210
206
202
5.0¢
274
268
261
255
249
244
239
234
229
224
5.5¢
302
295
288
281
274
268
263
257
252
246
6.0¢
329
321
314
306
299
293
286
280
274
269
6.5¢
357
348
340
332
324
317
310
304
297
291
7.0¢
384
375
366
357
349
342
334
327
320
314
7.5¢
412
402
392
383
374
366
358
350
343
336
8.0¢
439
428
418
408
399
390
382
374
366
358
8.5¢
467
455
444
434
424
415
406
397
389
381
Components and Construction
9.0¢
494
482
470
460
449
439
430
420
412
403
9.5¢
521
509
497
485
474
463
453
444
435
426
10.0¢
549
535
523
511
499
488
477
467
457
448
10.5¢
576
562
549
536
524
512
501
490
480
470
11.0¢
604
589
575
562
549
537
525
514
503
493
11.5¢
631
616
601
587
574
561
549
537
526
515
12.0¢
659
643
627
613
599
585
573
561
549
538
12.5¢
686
669
653
638
624
610
597
584
572
560
13.0¢
714
696
680
664
649
634
620
607
595
582
1) Cold Water Inlet — Opening through which cold water enters.
2) Hot Water Outlet — Opening through which hot water leaves.
3) Heat Traps — Available as an option, prevents heat loss.
4) Safety Valve — If temperature or pressure exceeds safe levels,
valve opens, allowing water to escape until heater can be serviced.
5) Upper Element & Thermostat — Element is surrounded by
water, operates as needed to give water a quick boost. Upper
thermostat preset at factory to hot setting to deliver 120°F water.
6) Drainpipe — Should be attached to safety valve to direct escaping
water to floor drain.
7) Rust Protector Rod — Flakes of the anode rod break off, and
are electrolytically drawn to and patch pinholes in the glass lining.
8) Energy-saving Insulation — Layer of polyurethane foam
insulation around tank. Helps keep heat from radiating out. Keeps
water hot longer and helps keep water heating costs lower.
9) Lower Heating Element & Thermostat — Element is
surrounded by water and handles most of water heating load.
Adjustable thermostat is preset to deliver 120°F water.
10) Cold Water Inlet Tube — Directs cold water to bottom of tank
so thermostat can accurately sense dropping water temperature.
How to Determine the Payback Period
Determining the payback period will help you decide what model water
heater is economically suited for you. The table above illustrates that the higher
the energy factor, the lower the annual operating cost. However, a more efficient
water heater generally has a higher purchase price. Therefore, there is a period of
time before the savings of the lower operating cost, more efficient water heater
make up for the increased price compared to a less efficient water heater; this is the
payback period. It is only after the payback period that you obtain a net savings
with the more efficient water heater.
Accordingly, the shorter the payback period, the better.
EXAMPLE: Assume you are intending to buy an electric water heater and your
local electric cost is 8.0¢ per kWh. You are comparing two water heaters, Model A
and Model B, which both have the same first hour rating.
Price of
Water Heater
Energy
Factor
Est. Annual
Cost/Operation
Model A
$300
0.84
$413
Model B
$400
0.94
$370
Additional Cost of More
Efficient Model B
$400 - $300 = $100
Estimated Annual
Savings in Operating
Cost for Model B
$418 - $374 = $44
Payback Period
$100/$44 per year = 2.3 year
Note: As fuel prices increase, the greater the savings obtained from a more
efficient water heater and the shorter the payback period becomes.
5
8
4
6
7
10
9
Hydrojet System by Bradford White
Bradford’s Hydrojet System delivery tube has a series of concentric
jet ports that create turbulent action inside the tank. Prolonging
tank life, the system clears the tank of harmful
deposits every time there is a call for hot water.
Water flowing into the tank encounters up to
30 flow altering jet ports. The upper jet ports
direct the water flow outward to begin the
mixing action. The lower jet ports direct the
flow inward to increase the pressure and
turbulence. The result is a highly agitated
outflow that puts sediment into suspension by
providing optimum turbulent action. Unlike
a dip tube where water exits with a weak
diffusing action, water exiting a Hydrojet
System is in complete turbulence. The
action dissolves solids such as lime and
other materials. Whenever water is drawn,
particles are prevented from settling to the
bottom of the tank or on the interior
surface sides. The Hydrojet is standard
on most Bradford White top connect water
heaters. The system was first introduced in 1993 and then the
Hydrojet Part II for commercial use was introduced in 1997.
For a free Topics List of 200 Update Bulletins (including a description of each), send a self-addressed stamped businesssize envelope to: Jim Dulley, List, 6906 Royalgreen Dr., Cincinnati, Ohio 45244 or read on the Internet - www.dulley.com
Water Heaters 15
Water Heaters 16
Refrigerators
Refrigerators
1
Refrigerator History and Facts
Newer refrigerators can account for 6% of a household’s energy use. If the
refrigerator is older, it can account for 9% to 15% of the household’s energy use.
Older refrigerators used an average of 1250 kWh/year and cost about $106 to
operate for the year.
Newer refrigerators use an average of 480 kWh/year and cost about $41 to
operate for the year.
The TYPICAL existing refrigerator that conservation and weatherization
programs are testing is a 20 year old, 18 cubic foot top freezer model located in a
kitchen, using 1383 kWh/yr. These units are typically using more electricity than
what is indicated on their labels.*
*From Michael Blasnik’s Measurement and Verification of Residential Refrigerator Energy Use, 2004
Source: John Krigger and Chris Dorsi 2004.. “Residential Energy: Cost Savings and
Comfort for Existing Buildings”. Saturn Resource Management, Inc. Helena, MT.
Refrigerators
2
Here is a photo recently shown to a group of Energy Auditors:
About one half said they would test this unit and about one half said they
wouldn’t bother because it was so new.
This is a photo of the name plate for that unit showing a manufacturing date of
July, 1997.
Note: Since the refrigerator is older than 5 years, it should be tested.
Refrigerators
3
n/a
Serial # - 2nd letter (pre 1989)
Serial # - 7th digit (pre 1989)
Serial # - last letter
White, Westinghouse
Tappan, O’Keefe & Merritt
S = 59, 85
R = 58, 84
T = 60, 74, 86
C = 46, 67
K = 53
U = 61, V = 62, W = 63, X = 64, Y = 65, Z = 66, A = 67, B = 68
B = 45, 66
J = 52
A = 44, 65, 77, 89
H = 51, 81, 93
Source: http://www.waptac.org
Hotpoint
Exceptions:
GE Decoder Chart:
V = 61, 75, 87
D = 47, 68, 78, 90
L = 54, 70, 82, 94
Same as GE with some exceptions. See GE and Hotpoint exceptions chart below
W = 62
E = 48, 69
M = 55, 71, 83
See chart below
Hotpoint
n/a
X = 63 Y = 64
F = 49, 79, 91
N = 56, 72
Refrigerators 3a
Z = 76, 88
G = 50, 80, 92
P = 57, 73
xGxxx = 1950 or 1980
xxxxxxD = 1953 or 1977
xx xxx-x8xx = 1968 or 78 or 88
Add “196, 197, or 198” to it
A=1950 or 1974 (+14 yrs) B=1951 or 1975,
etc.
xLxxx = 1988 74 is the oldest
year
xx3xx = 1963 or 73 or 83
3xxBxx = 1973 or 1983
Hxxxx = 1966 or 1976 61 is the
oldest
ABCxxx = pre 1982 x2xxx =
1982
xx.6x2xxx = 1962
56xxxxx = 1965
Example
A,V,W=78, B=79, C=80 etc. pre-1978,
R=74, U=77 etc.
Add “196, 197, or 198” to it
Serial # - 2nd letter
Serials without letters
n/a
Add “196, 197, or 198” to the 1st digit. The
letter in the 4th space is a month code used
only on older models.
BLACKHORSE B=1, L=2
No need as 1st two digits Add “198 ” to it
Combine the digits
Reverse the digits
How to decode
General Electric (GE)
Admiral, Crosley, Norge, Magic
Chef, Jenn Air
n/a
Serial # - 3rd digit (pre 1989)
Gibson, Kelvinator
Serials with no letter in the
4th space
Serial # - 1st & 4th digit (pre 1989)
Frigidaire
n/a
Serials with letters
Serial # - 1st digit (pre 1986)
Model # - 1st 3 letters (pre 1982)
Serial # - 2nd digit (post 1982)
n/a
n/a
Serial # - 1st two digits
Model # - 1st & 3rd digits after (.)
What to avoid
What to look for
Amana
Whirlpool
Sears, Kenmore, Coldspot
Montgomery Wards, Signature
(2000)
Brand(s)
Refrigerators are listed by brand name, followed by the coding system. If several manufacturers used the same system, they are listed together. Some rules of thumb for easy identification
are: (1) Refrigerators that are any color of green, brown, yellow, pink, or blue (actually KitchenAid makes a new unit in cobalt blue); have mechanical handles; have doors held shut with
magnetic strips; have rounded shoulders; have a chromed handle; or have exposed “house door” type hinges are at least 10 years old, and (2) the following brands have only been
manufactured since around 1984 - Roper, Estate, KitchenAid, Caloric, Modern Maid, and Maytag.
REFRIGERATOR DATING CHART
Tips for Accurate and Safe Refrigerator Testing
1. Follow the metering instructions that come with your kWh meter. For example,
when using a Brultech kWh meter, be sure the sticker color on the back of the
Monitor matches the sticker color on the back of the 12V AC Adaptor. Be sure
the current clip cable is not cut and the wire loop insulation is in good shape.
2. Test units with manufacturing dates of 5 years old or older. The manufacturing
date can be on the unit label or name plate, sometimes hidden in the serial
number.
3. For refrigerators in kitchens, one hour tests are OK but two hour tests are better.
For refrigerators in basements, garages and other semi-conditioned spaces, one
hour tests are OK. If you can’t test, you can multiply the appliance energy label
wattage rating by 111% to get an estimate of current use. Or, use the AHAM
manual for DOE test results.
4. The “safe and efficient zone” for the fresh food compartment of a refrigerator
temperature is between 36 degrees and 40 degrees. The freezer should be
between 0 and 5 degrees. These settings are safe for food and are the most
energy efficient settings.
5. The difference in temperature between ambient air and the inside of the
refrigerator is strongly correlated with energy use, averaging 2.5 percent per
degree F. Therefore, a refrigerator cooling to 35 degrees in a 75 degree
kitchen uses 31% more electricity than a refrigerator cooling to 40 degrees
in a 68 degree kitchen.
6. If the refrigerator is not running, the kW reading on the Brultech kWh meter
should be 0. If the refrigerator is not running and the kW reading is between
0.010 and 0.040 (meaning 10 to 40 Watts), the refrigerator has an anti-sweat
heater to prevent moisture condensing on the rubber gasket to avoid mold.
7. If the door is open, the light is on and the refrigerator is not running, the kW
reading is between 0.010 and 0.040 (meaning 10 to 40 Watts). If the kW reading
doesn’t increase when you open the door and the light is on, then the light switch
is broken and the light stays on when the door is closed. This heats up the inside
of the refrigerator and causes the refrigerator to run just about all the time.
8. When the refrigerator kicks on, the kW reading will start high and slowly drop to
its normal running value. The usual range for a refrigerator is .100 kW to .400
kW (100 to 400 Watts). Newer refrigerators draw about 150 Watts.
9. Watch the meter for defrost periods. If the wattage jumps to around 400, a
defrost cycle is happening. Your metering results will not be accurate unless you
leave the meter on for about a day.
10. If you unplug the refrigerator or freezer when the compressor is running, wait
Refrigerators
4
about 8 minutes before plugging it back in to avoid ruining the safety switch for
the compressor.
11. Unplug the refrigerator if you are going to clean coils. Moving the controls to “off”
stops the cooling, but does not shut off power to the refrigerator. It is generally
only necessary to clean the coils once a year, but follow the manufacturer’s
recommendations. Cleaning coils more often generally does not increase the
efficiency.
12. When taking the temperature of a refrigerator, place the thermometer in the
center of the fresh food compartment and the center of the freezer compartment.
13. Once you have the kWh/hr reading at one hour, you can figure cost to run the
unit for the year. Follow this procedure:
____ kWh/hr (your reading from the Brultech at one hour) x 8760 hrs/yr = ____ kWh/yr
____ kWh/yr x .085 cents per kWh = cost to operate the unit for one year
Refrigerators
5
HOW TO FIGURE KWH USE WHEN THE MONITOR WAS ON THE
REFRIGERATOR FOR MORE THAN ONE HOUR
In order to be sure the refrigerator KWH monitoring is fairly accurate, the kWh monitor
must be hooked up to the refrigerator for a minimum of one hour. If it is exactly on for
one hour, it is easy to figure eligibility. However, unless the person monitoring the
refrigerator uses a timer to indicate when one hour has passed, it is likely that the KWH
monitor will be hooked up for longer than one hour.
Therefore, the following monitoring math is being provided to help you factor your
monitor reading back to one hour.
Minutes the monitor has been hooked up = Decimal Hours
60
kWh total (from the monitor) = kWh per hour (the test result to compare to the
Decimal Hours
replacement guidelines)
To make this even easier use the chart below:
Time Monitor was Hooked Up Multiply this # times
(Minutes)
the total kWh’s
65
70
75
80
85
90
95
100
105
110
115
120 (2 hours)
125
130
135
140
145
.9231
.8571
.80
.7502
.71
.6667
.6316
.60
.5714
.5455
.5217
.50
.48
.4615
.4444
.4286
.4138
Another method of figuring out if the refrigerator is eligible for replacement is to figure
out how much energy the old refrigerator uses per minute and then multiply this number
by 60 minutes to figure out the KWH use per hour. This is the formula for this method:
Total kWh used during the monitoring time
Time the monitor was hooked up in minutes
= kWh used per min.
KWH used per minute X 60 minutes = Total KWH used per hour (the test result to
compare to the replacement guidelines)
Refrigerators
6
Refrigerators
7
0.922
0.934
0.94
0.969
0.993
0.952
1.03
1.033
1.039
1.064
1.091
1.113
1.062
1.12
1.108
1.082
1.06
1.045
1.022
8:00
9:00
10:00
11:00
12:00
13:00
14:00
15:00
16:00
17:00
18:00
19:00
20:00
21:00
22:00
23:00
24:00:00
Source: John Proctor, HE May/June 2000
5 deg F hotter than average
average
5 deg F cooler than average
Source: New Jersey Comfort Partners Program.
0.975
0.952
0.929
0.912
0.897
0.882
0.89
Fraction
1:00
2:00
3:00
4:00
5:00
6:00
7:00
Hour
Table A. Time of
Sources:
2. Ambient air temperature
immediately surrounding the
refrigerator
1. Time of monitoring
8AM -12N
12N - 6PM
0.83
0.93
0.95
1.06
1.07
1.19
2. Ambient air temperature immediately surrounding the refrigerator:
5 degrees hotter than average
or average
or 5 degrees cooler than average
1. Time of monitoring:
8AM - 12 N or 12N - 6PM
Source: Larry Kinney HE September/October 2000
Figure 1. Control settings have a very powerful effect on energy consumption
that needs to be taken into account in refrigerator program execution and
consumer education. Rational control settings can save lots of energy.
3. Measure--or estimate as well as possible--the annual ambient temperature
immediately adjacent to the refrigerator. If the average ambient temperature
during the period of measurement is substantially different from the average
expected over a year, I use a correction factor of 2.5% per °F (see Figure 1).
2. Measure the consumption of the unit (or similar units) under a range of
ambient temperatures, holding other variables as constant as possible.
1. Measure the ambient temperature during the period of the short-term test.
Ambient temperature strongly affects monitoring results, and even relatively
long-term tests of less duration than a year cannot account for this factor
completely. To correct for temperature, the best strategy is to:
Metered usage
factors
Refrigerator Monitoring Field Reference Factors
Refrigerator Purchasing Tips
1.
Compare the Energy Guide labels of different models when purchasing a new
refrigerator or freezer.
2.
Appliances with the Energy Star rating have better-than-average energy
efficiency. Most use 10% to 20% less energy than non-Energy Star rated
appliances.
3.
The most efficient standard refrigerators use less than 500 kWh annually (this
costs less than $43 a year at 8.5 cents/kWh). Units that use much less energy
can be special ordered.
4.
Be sure to measure the space available so the new one will fit.
5.
An 18 cubic foot refrigerator means the entire space inside (the fresh food
compartment and the freezer space combined) measures 18 cubic feet. Be
sure to compare the cubic footage of the new fresh food compartment with the
cubic footage of the old fresh food compartment so as to avoid surprises. Often,
new refrigerators take space from the freezer to make more space in the fresh
food compartment as compared to older units.
6.
Manual defrost units cost less to use than automatic defrost units.
7.
Side-by-side units often use more energy than units with the freezers on the top
or bottom.
8.
Through-the-door cold water dispensers and ice makers cause the energy use
to increase 10% to 20%.
9.
Operating two refrigerators uses far more energy than one larger unit.
10. Usually, the larger the unit the more energy is uses. However, sometimes, an
18 cubic foot model will use less than a 15 cubic foot model. Be sure to check
the Energy Guide label.
11. Allow at least 1” space all around the new unit to help with air circulation.
12. Don’t put a new refrigerator or freezer in a space that can drop below 50
degrees as the oil gets too cold and the refrigerant will not work properly.
13. Set the unit so the refrigerator cools to 36 – 40 degrees and the freezer cools to
0 – 5 degrees. Over cooling by 10 degrees can double the energy use.
Refrigerators
8
Trade Section
News
Contact Us
Home
THAT "DIFFERENT" SOUND IN YOUR
KITCHEN
If you bought a new refrigerator within the past few
years, you've probably noticed that it sounds "different."
Here's why.
New refrigerators use only half as much electricity as
older models. In fact, a new, 20.6 cubic foot refrigerator
with top freezer uses no more electricity than a 75-watt
light bulb.
Most new refrigerators are significantly larger and have
such added conveniences as automatic defrost systems,
icemakers and perhaps even a "built in" look. These
features can cause changes in the sounds commonly
associated with refrigeration operation, including:
A high-pitched whine -- from energy-efficient
compressors that have smaller, higher speed motors;
©1996-2005
Association of
Home Appliance
Manufacturers
Suite 402
1111 19th St., NW
Washington, DC
20036
(202)872-5955
(202)872-9354
(fax)
Please read our
disclaimer and
privacy policy.
A soft hum -- from the evaporator fan in the freezer
and/or condenser fan under the refrigerator;
Clicks -- from the automatic defrost timer's switching on
and off, the thermostat's turning the refrigerator on and
off, or the water valve's refilling the icemaker;
Boiling or gurgling/trickling water -- from the
refrigerant circulating in the sealed system or the trickling
of defrost water into the drain pan when the refrigerator
shuts off; or
Running water and thuds -- from the filling of the ice
cube tray and ice cubes' falling into the storage bin.
To help reduce these new sounds, make sure the
refrigerator is level and the defrost water collection
pan is in position (usually reachable behind the bottom
front "toe plate"). Put carpet or sound-absorbing
ceiling tile on the wall behind the refrigerator, and allow
enough space between the back of the refrigerator
and the wall, unless the refrigerator is designed to be
built in. Check your Use and Care book for the needed
space.
To reduce compressor run time, vacuum the
compressor coils twice a year, more often if you have
Refrigerators
9
pets; and keep your freezer at least three-fourths
full, filling empty space with jugs of water.
Some consumers report their refrigerators are "louder"
than an identical model in a friend or relative's home. This
may be due to the number of people in the house, as well
as different furnishings and room arrangements.
Carpeting, draperies, upholstered furniture and wall
coverings help muffle refrigerator sounds, which are most
noticeable in quiet surroundings. Consumers with hearing
aids are especially sensitive to the sounds.
Source: http://www.aham.org/experts/refsound.cfm
Refrigerators 10
Frequently Asked Questions and Answers about
the New Refrigerators
1.
The freezer door pops open on my top mount refrigerator.



2.
It is not unusual for the freezer door top pop open when the bottom door is
closed. All two-door refrigerators are connected with channels that allow air to
pass from the freezer to the refrigerator.
The bottom door is designed to close on its own when left at a 45 degree angle.
If it does not close on its own, the front legs need to be raised. The front legs are
supposed to be higher than the back legs.
My refrigerator never shuts off, it runs too much.


Modern refrigerators are designed to run 80-90% of the time. This makes them
more energy efficient because the most energy is used when the compressor
first comes on.
Make sure that both the freezer and the refrigerator are 3/4 full in order to
maintain the proper temperature and run time. Air alone does not retain
coldness, so an empty food compartment will run longer to try to maintain the
proper temperature.
Source: Sears website (www.sears.com) and the GE website (www.geappliances.com)
Refrigerators 11
Trade Section
News
Contact Us
Home
OPERATE REFRIGERATOR IN ROOM
WARMER THAN 60°
Food may not remain fresh in an automatic defrost
refrigerator/freezer or freezer placed in a room cooler
than 60 degrees Fahrenheit.
Refrigerators and freezers with automatic defrost systems
are sensitive to the temperature of the air surrounding
them. As the air temperature rises, the refrigerator's
compressor wastes energy by running more than
necessary to maintain the storage temperature. When
room air temperatures fall, the compressor may not run
often enough to maintain a cold enough interior to store
food safely.
As room temperature becomes colder and falls below 38
degrees, the refrigerator's compressor may not run at all.
The freezer compartment temperature will increase to
match the room's air temperature, and the frozen food
will thaw.
©1996-2005
Association of
Home Appliance
Manufacturers
Suite 402
1111 19th St., NW
Washington, DC
20036
(202)872-5955
(202)872-9354
(fax)
Please read our
disclaimer and
privacy policy.
Unless specifically designed to operate in low surrounding
temperatures, refrigerators and freezers should not be
placed in unheated locations such as garages or porches,
where air temperatures are likely to fall below 60 degrees.
Check the manufacturer's Use and Care manual for
the lowest surrounding temperatures in which your
specific unit will provide safe storage of food.
If you expect the temperature to fall below 60°F, empty
the freezer section of the refrigerator to prevent the food
from defrosting and spoiling. Consider emptying out the
entire unit, turning it off, and, if you plan to be away for a
long time, propping the door open.* Keeping the door
open will prevent mold and odor.
While manual defrost freezers can generally be operated
in an unheated garage or porch without affecting the unit
or frozen food, check your Use and Care manual to
determine whether your unit requires special care.
Source: http://www.aham.org/experts/oprefrig.cfm
Refrigerators 12
Refrigerators 13
Refrigerator and Freezer Energy Use
Size
kWh per Month
Operating Cost at
$0.085 per kWh
Top Freezer Models – Automatic Defrost
14 - 16 cu. ft.
17 - 18 cu. ft.
19 - 21 cu. ft.
110
118
120
$ 9.34
$ 10.02
$ 10.19
Top Freezer Models – Automatic Defrost / High Efficiency
14 - 16 cu. ft.
17 - 18 cu. ft.
19 - 21 cu. ft.
22 - 24 cu. ft.
43
46
48
51
$ 3.65
$ 3.91
$ 4.08
$ 4.33
Side-By-Side Models – Automatic Defrost
19 - 20 cu. ft.
21 - 22 cu. ft.
23 and up cu. ft.
125
140
150
$ 10.63
$ 11.90
$ 12.75
Side-By-Side Models – Automatic Defrost / High Efficiency
19 - 22 cu. ft.
23 and up cu. ft.
60
65
$ 5.10
$ 5.53
Chest Freezers – Manual Defrost / High Efficiency
15 - 20 cu. ft.
40
$ 3.34
Chest Freezers – Manual Defrost
15 - 20 cu. ft.
23 - 15 cu. ft.
60
70
$ 5.10
$ 5.95
Upright Freezers – Automatic Defrost
15 - 16 cu. ft.
12 - 21 cu. ft.
110
100
$ 9.35
$ 8.50
Upright Freezers – Manual Defrost
15 - 16 cu. ft.
18 - 21 cu. ft.
70
74
$ 5.95
$ 6.29
Upright Freezers – Manual Defrost / High Efficiency
15 – 20 cu. ft.
46
$ 3.91
Source: Modified from First Energy. “Making cents of electricity.”
Refrigerators 14
Lighting
Lighting
1
LIGHTING
Since 7% of the total residential energy use is for lighting, or easily 15% of the average
electric bill, it is an important energy savings opportunity.
The savings primarily comes from replacing incandescent light bulbs with compact or
subcompact fluorescent light bulbs. Fixtures can also be replaced with Energy Star
fluorescent fixtures, such as halogen torchiere lamps.
Compact fluorescent light bulbs typically use 1/4 to 1/3 the energy of an
incandescent light bulb for the same amount of light.
Incandescent bulbs are small heating units. 90% of the energy used by an
incandescent bulb goes to create heat. A 60 Watt incandescent bulb easily heats to
230 degrees. In the summer, this added heat increases the air conditioning load.
Halogen light bulbs have been known to heat to 700 degrees. These bulbs can cause
fires if they are close to combustible materials like curtains.
Compact fluorescent bulbs are much cooler. A 15 Watt CFL with the same lumens as a
60 Watt incandescent only heats to about 70 degrees. In the summer, this cooler
lighting helps reduce the air conditioning load.
People usually underestimate the number of light bulbs in their homes. A survey
recently taken reported most families said they had 29 light bulbs when they had almost
twice that many, or 58.
Source: Alex Wilson, Jennifer Thorne, and John Morrill. 2003. “Consumer Guide to Home Energy
th
Savings.” 8 Ed. American Council for an Energy Efficient Economy. Washington, D.C.
Lighting
2
Tips for Choosing the Right CFL
1. Effective May, 2005, all light bulb manufactures had to redesign their product
labels to comply with a Federal Trade Commission rule. The labels must now
include:
 The bulb’s rated lumens
 The bulb’s watts
 The bulb’s lifetime in hours
2. Pick a CFL that has the highest lumens for the lowest wattage.
3. Install CFL’s in fixtures that are used, on the average, 2 or more hours per day.
If a light is used one hour a day in the summer but 3 hours a day in the winter, it
should be considered for replacement.
4. Choose Energy Star listed bulbs with the highest lifetime hours as possible. For
example, there are 8,760 hours in a year. If a 6,000 hour bulb is installed in a
fixture that is used 24 hours a day, the bulb will burn out before one year has
passed. An 8,000 hour bulb will last almost the entire year and a 10,000 bulb will
last longer than the year.
5. Carry a variety of CFL bulbs, including:
 Mini’s or sub-compact bulbs that are the same length as an incandescent
 3-ways
 Outdoors, including floods and porch light
 Dimmables
 Spot and reflector replacements, including light reflectors
 Mini based bulbs
 Candle shape with regular size bases and mini bases
 Replacements for 40, 60, 75 and 100 watt incandescent bulbs
Lighting
3

Halogen torchiere replacements
6. In addition to a variety of bulbs, installers should carry:
 Tall lamp harps
 Socket extenders
 Harp base extenders
7. When reading a maximum Wattage label in a fixture, Wattage means Wattage,
not lumens. For example, if the fixture label says “60 Watt Max.”, you can install
a light bulb that uses 60 Watts or less. This means, you can install a CFL that
uses up to 60 Watts. This would be a very bright bulb, but you could install a
bulb with that Wattage. It does not mean that you have to install a 15 Watt CFL.
You could install a 20 Watt CFL with higher lumens than the incandescent you
are replacing if that would suit the customer better. Don’t get lumens and
Wattage mixed up.
8. Be sure to read the CFL boxes to check that the CFL will work properly in the
fixture. For example:




Install dimmable CFL’s in fixtures controlled by dimmer switches. The
fixture and the switch can be damaged if the CFL is not a dimmable CFL.
Not all CFL’s work in fixtures that are controlled by photocells or motion
detectors.
Some CFL’s are made for outdoor applications.
Some CFL’s are made for recessed or other down light fixtures.
9. Common reasons for customer dissatisfaction with CFL’s are:






The light is not bright enough (higher lumens should be installed).
The light bulb sticks out from the fixture (a smaller CFL with the same
lumens should be installed).
The bulb takes too long to get bright (many newer CFL models are very
quick to warm up).
The bulb looks weird (CFL’s are now available to look like most
incandescents, including candle shaped, round globes for bathroom mirror
lights, flood and reflector types).
The bulb was installed without customer participation or buy-in (many
customers need time to understand why the programs want to install the
bulbs and how it will assist them).
Too few were installed (install in fixtures used 2 or more hours a day on
the average).
Lighting
4
Holiday Lighting
Lighting use is typically much higher in December when many people decorate for the
holidays. Home Energy Magazine reported that December can have 27% more lighting
than November.
Holiday Light Energy Consumption
Small clear or colored bulbs, indoor or outdoor, .4 Watts per bulb, 100 bulbs = 40 Watts
Large 10W bulbs, outdoor, 50 bulbs = 500 Watts
Icicle lights, outdoor, 150 bulbs at 1.9 Watts each = 285 Watts
Inflatable, lighted Grinch, snowmen, Santa and so on, fan is 75 Watt and the bulb is 10
Watts or so = 85 Watts
Window candles = 7 Watts each
House spot light = 150 Watts each
Rope lights use 3 Watts per foot
LED holiday lights are available and are run by batteries.
Outdoor timers can be used to turn holiday lighting off or on.
Lighting
5
Home > Products > Lighting > CFLs
Compact Fluorescent Light Bulbs
If every household in the U.S. replaced one light bulb with
an ENERGY STAR qualified compact fluorescent light bulb
(CFL), it would prevent enough pollution to equal removing
one million cars from the road. CFLs provide high-quality
light, smart technology, and design, requiring less while
lasting longer than typical incandescent bulbs.
Earning the ENERGY STAR
ENERGY STAR qualified CFLs use 66% less
energy than a standard incandescent bulb and last up to
10 times longer. Replacing a 100-watt incandescent with
a 32-watt CFL can save you at least $30 in energy costs
over the life of the bulb.
ENERGY STAR qualified CFLs operate at less than
100F, they are also safer than typical halogen bulbs,
which are frequently used in floor lamps or torchieres
and burn at 1,000F. Due to their high heat output,
halogens can cause burns and fires. CFLs are cool to
the touch.
Remember, saving energy prevents pollution.
ENERGY STAR qualified CFLs provide the same amount of
light (lumens) as standard incandescent bulbs, but have
lower wattage ratings. This means they use less energy and
cause less pollution. If you are unfamiliar with the best CFL
wattage to use for your lighting needs, always refer to the
lumen, or light output on the product packaging as your
guide. For example, most 60-watt incandescents provide
around 800 lumens, so look for ENERGY STAR qualified
CFLs that provide 800 lumens or more.
Use the table below to become familiar with the lumen or
light output range for the most popular residential
incandescent bulbs.
A-shaped Incandescent
Bulb (Watts)
Typical Lumens (Measure
of Light Output)
40
> 450
60
> 800
75
> 1,100
100
> 1,600
150
> 2,600
Lighting Buyers
Guide
Take the ENERGY
STAR Quiz
For Consumers
Basic
Product Search |
Advanced
Purchasing
Tips
Manufacturer
List
For Business
Savings
Calculator
(160
KB, Excel)
Purchasing
& Procurement
For Partners
Key Product
Criteria
Product
Specifications
QPI Form
Products in
Development
Partner
Resources
Source: http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=cfls.pr_cfls&layout=print
Lighting
6
Home > Products > Lighting > CFLs > Purchasing Tips
Purchasing Tips
1. Place ENERGY STAR qualified CFLs in the fixtures you use most frequently. CFLs are most
efficient when they operate for several hours at a time (2 hours or more).
2. Certain CFLs are designed to work in dimmable, 3-way fixtures, as well as torchieres. Check
the package to be sure you are buying the correct bulb.
3. Use ENERGY STAR qualified CFLs in the fixtures that are hard to reach such as ceiling fans,
other ceiling fixtures, and enclosed outdoor fixtures. Because CFLs last longer, you enjoy the
convenience of buying and changing bulbs less frequently.
4. ENERGY STAR qualified CFLs come in a multitude of shapes and sizes. Select the best shape
and size to fit your needs:
o
Bare, Mini-spirals, Spirals
o
Bare, Double, Triple, and Quadruple tubes
o
Circle-line
o
Covered A-line
o
Covered Globe
o
Covered Bullet or Torpedo
5. Smaller sizes mean greater compatibility with your fixtures. Today's ENERGY STAR qualified
CFLs are designed to be smaller and thinner than earlier models, so you can install them in a wider
variety of fixtures, such as wall sconces, ceiling-mounted fixtures, and ceiling fans.
6. Qualified CFLs are available in a range of color temperatures:
o
Warm, white light: Look for a color temperature of 2,700-3,000K.
o
Cooler, white light: Look for a color temperature of 4,500-6,000K.
For information about recycling CFLs, contact your local household toxic waste disposal program.
Source: http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=cfls.pr_tips_cfls&layout=print
Lighting
7
Lighting
8
Lighting
9
Lighting 10
Clothes Dryers
Clothes Dryers
1
Electric Clothes Dryers
Unlike most other appliances, clothes dryers don’t vary much in the amount of energy
used from model to model if they are installed correctly and are working correctly. That
is why clothes dryers are not required to display EnergyGuide labels or are not listed in
the Energy Star’s database.
The cost of using a clothes dryer is determined by the operator. She/he can set the
dryer on timed dry and possibly over dry the clothes, adding to the cost of drying
clothes, or the operator can set the dryer to the moisture sensor setting (if there is one)
and avoid over drying clothes, and therefore save money.
Dryers used to be controlled simply by setting a timer. The operator guessed how long
the load of clothes would take to dry and set the timer for a particular number of minutes
such as 45, 60 or 75 minutes. If the clothes came out dry, the operator usually stuck to
that number of minutes for each load. However, some types of clothing dry much more
quickly than others. Over drying can reduce the life of clothes. A significant amount of
energy can be saved by buying a model that senses dryness and automatically shuts
off. Most of the better quality dryers today include this feature.
The best new dryers have moisture sensors in the drum for sensing dryness, while
most new dryers only infer dryness by sensing the temperature of the exhaust air. The
lower cost thermostat-controlled models may over dry some types of clothes, but even
these are much better than the timed-dry machines. Compared with timed drying, about
10% of the cost of drying a load can be saved by using a temperature-sensing control
and about 15% can be saved by using a moisture-sensing control.
Clothes Dryer Facts
Most dryers work the same way – they tumble clothes through heated air to remove
moisture. The electric fan distributes the heated air. Electric dryers use heating coils to
supply the heat.
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
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Dryer elements use about 4,500 to 5,500 watts.
The average life of a dryer is 18 years.
One gallon of water per hour can be dried out of clothing in a dryer.
A normal mixed load of clothing should take less than 60 minutes to dry in
an electric dryer. This can use about 6 kWh.
The dryer costs about 1 cent a minute to use.
Clothes Dryers
2
If the load takes longer than 60 minutes, the dryer may need work, the washer is
not spinning out enough water, or more likely, the dryer venting needs work.
Here are ways to reduce drying time and therefore reduce drying costs:
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Locate the dryer in a heated space.
Make sure the dryer is vented properly. Most clothes dryer warranties are
void if the dryer venting material is longer than 6 feet or is vinyl.
Clean out the outside dryer exhaust vent cover and replace if it does not
close when the dryer is off.
Clean the lint filter inside the dryer after every load to improve air
circulation and reduce the chance of fire.
Dry full loads but don’t overfill the dryer.
Separate clothes into like weight and type – for example, don’t dry
lightweight synthetics and bath towels together.
Dry two or more loads in a row to take advantage of the dryer’s retained
heat.
Make sure the dryer has an adequate air supply.
Dryer Venting
Unvented dryers
Some people do not vent their dryers. This can cause problems in three ways:
1. The dryer lint and moisture that should be vented to the outside can cause health
problems for the people living in the home with the unvented dryer by irritating
lungs from the lint and the mold that can grow on wet surfaces.
2. The moist air that should be vented to the outside will cause a dehumidifier near
a dryer to run more and this will contribute to higher electric bills.
3. The dryer is continuously trying to dry clothes with moist air vented from the
dryer.
4. Chemicals in softeners or dryer sheets contribute to indoor air pollution. Chlorine
added to the air this way has been known to damage heat exchangers of
furnaces near unvented dryers.
5. Vented dryers can use 227 to 455 fewer kWh annually than unvented dryers.
Bottom Line: Dryers should be vented outside.
Clothes Dryers
3
Vented dryers
If the vented dryer is taking longer than 60 minutes to dry a load, it may have a faulty
element, a faulty moisture sensor, or the timer is off. These items can usually be
repaired in a dryer. However, what occurs more often in homes is that the dryer venting
needs work.
All national and local building codes require metal ducting for dryers. The International
Mechanical Code stipulates the requirements for clothes dryer ducts. In brief, the
maximum length of duct permitted is 25 feet. The maximum length should be reduced
by 2.5 feet for each 45 degree bend, and reduced by 5 feet for each 90 degree bend.
Dryer warranties usually require the dryer to be vented directly outside, with a straight,
rigid metal vent of 6 feet maximum length. This requirement is often difficult to meet as
dryers are seldom located within 6 feet of an outside wall or access to the outside in a
basement. This works in some homes but often the shortest route from the dryer to the
outside can easily exceed 12 feet and may even include two or more elbows.
Flex duct, either vinyl or foil, is usually used by homeowners due to its ease of
installation and low cost. This is not a good thing. Flexible hoses create air turbulence
which is resistance to efficient air flow. Moisture collects on the pleats of the flex ducting
material and lint can easily stick to the moist surfaces and build up. Flex duct can be
pinched easily and air flow can be restricted totally. Every year in the U.S., about
13,000 fires are reported that start in or at a clothes dryer and lint buildup is usually the
culprit.
There are other potential problems with long dryer exhaust vent lines. The longer the
venting material, the longer the dryer will probably have to work to get rid of the moist
air. If the venting material is twisted or has elbows, the moist air is slowed down and
the dryer fan must work longer to vent the moist air. This can result in longer drying
time which results in higher electric bills.
Rigid, straight metal duct material resists lint build up and must be used with the pieces
of duct material being taped and clamped together. Screws can cause lint to catch on
the inside of the venting material and cause a build up that can slow drying time and
possibly contribute to fires.
Weatherization Program contractors are encouraged to assess electric dryer use and
drying time to determine if it is cost effective to address the customer’s dryer.
Clothes Dryers
4
Clothes Dryer Venting Guidelines:
For dryers not vented to the outside:


If the dryer is electric, check to see if it is vented to the outside. If it is not vented
to the outside, and if the customer does 5 or more dryer loads per week, and the
drying time exceeds 60 minutes per load, consider venting the dryer to the
outside following the venting guidelines below.
If the dryer is electric and is not vented to the outside and it is determined that
there are health and safety reasons to vent the dryer, the contractor may vent the
dryer to the outside, being sure to indicate the reasons for venting.
For dryers already vented to the outside:

If the electric dryer is vented to the outside but the drying time exceeds 60
minutes per load and the customer does 5 or more dryer loads per week, check
the venting material and the outside vent cover for lint blocks. Remove the
blocks and/or replace the venting material using the material and guidelines
below.
If the dryer is being vented follow these guidelines:
1. Vent the dryer to the outside using the shortest and straightest route possible.
This may mean that the dryer will have to be moved. Minimize 90 degree turns
as sharp turns cause more back pressure and create resistance to air flow. Two
45 degree bends are more efficient than one 90 degree elbow.
2. Use rigid smooth metal for the venting material. Pieces of venting material must
be held together with one of these methods:
a. Butyl backed tape and clamps for locations at least 10 feet from the
dryer.
b. For locations within 10 feet of the dryer, use clamps alone because butyl
backed tape has been known to melt when close to a dryer. Or,
c. A snap lock punch, used by siding and duct installers may be used to
punch a very few notches into the duct material to hold the sections
together. This allows for the pieces of material to be put together and
then rotated and locked together until someone wants to unlock the
pieces for exhaust line cleaning. Use aluminum tape over the joints but
not butyl backed tape.
d. Other venting methods can be considered with approval.
3. Secure hanging duct work with straps.
4. The exterior vent covers should have a hood or dampers that keep out the
weather and pests. The positive closure type that vents upwards and closes well
is a good choice. Installing a larger vent hood is the equivalent of shortening the
total duct run by about 6 feet.
5. Educate the customer about safe and efficient dryer use.
Clothes Dryers
5
Venting Products
In addition to the products mentioned earlier, there are specialty products available.
These include: periscope vents for use when vent outlets overlap or are offset and
provides 2 ½ inches of clearance between the back of the dryer and the wall; elongated
90 degree, close wall elbows that turns within 4 ½ inches of the wall; vent brushes for
cleaning out dryer venting material; Dryerbox, which allows dryers to be installed
against a wall.
These websites are good sources for dryer information.
www.dryerbox.com
www.repairclinic.com
www.howstuffworks.com
www.eren.doe.gov
www.cpsc.gov
www.appliparts.com
www.aham.org
www.popularmechanics.com
www.buildersbest.com
Clothes Dryers
6
1
In 1990, only 16% of U.S. households had personal computers. By 2001, 56% had
them. Currently, more than 60% have personal computers. Low income consumers
tend to have older equipment, which uses more electricity than newer equipment.
Many weatherization contractors have heard customers ask them, “Is it better to leave
my computer on all the time or turn it off when I am done using it?” This is a tricky
question because of the word “better”.
Computers and printers use energy when they are on. They do not use energy when
they are off. When they are first turned on, they use more Watts as they “warm up”.
Then, they reach a use level that stays fairly level. Equipment in sleep mode still uses
some electricity so equipment should always be turned off when not being used for
extended periods of time. Screen savers are not an energy efficient feature so monitors
should be set to display the screen saver for a pre-determined period of time and then
enter sleep mode or be turned off.



Printer use ranges from 10 Watts in power down mode to up to 300 Watts when
working.
Computer use ranges from 15 Watts in the low-power mode to 200 Watts when
working.
Monitors from 8 Watts after 60 minutes of inactivity, 15 Watts after 30 minutes of
inactivity to 20 Watts when working. Newer LCD monitors use less power than
CRT monitors.
Computers do not suffer from being turned on and off thousands of times. In fact,
turning computers off when they’re not being used lowers the amount of dust buildup
inside which helps them last longer. And, when they are off, they are not using
electricity. Also, Energy Star labeled computers and printers generate less heat than
non-Energy Star labeled equipment so work areas stay cooler and air conditioning loads
are reduced.
Educating customers about efficient computer and printer use can reduce electricity use
and cost. Advise the customer to purchase an Energy Star qualified computer. When
left inactive, an Energy Star qualified computer enters a low-power mode and uses up
to 70% less electricity, in sleep mode, than a computer without the sleep mode control.
In sleep mode, the computer uses 90% less electricity than when it is in full-power
mode. An Energy Star qualified printer will also go to “sleep” and will use 60% less
electricity than a non-Energy Star printer.
So, the answer to the first question is:
Turn the computer, monitor and printer off when it won’t be used for 4 hours or more,
especially if the system is not Energy Star equipment. And, remember, ‘sleep’ is not
the same as ‘off’.
2
1
TV’s VCR’s, DVD’s and Sound Systems
The size of a TV is not a good indicator of operating costs. The design of the TV (CRT,
LCD, Plasma, Rear projection [CRT and LCD] ) is more important. Modern TV
wattages range from about 100 to about 250. For example, a big screen (48”, 65”) TV
typical wattage is 250.
Energy Star qualified TV’s use about 25% less energy than standard units.
A surround sound home theater system that uses 200 Watts will cost about 2 cents per
hour to use. The Wattage rating on the packaging for a home theater system is the sum
of the sound output from the speakers. A system that has six 100 Watts speakers will
be listed as a 600 Watt system. But the main power supply specs may say that it
actually draws 200 Watts to make the sound. A powered subwoofer speaker will use a
little more.
Consumer Electronics and Standby Power
Many types of electronic equipment used in the home continuously use small amounts
of power, even when they are turned off. Examples include TV’s, VCR’s, DVD’s,
microwave ovens and many rechargeable products such as cell phone battery chargers,
answering machine adaptors, cordless drill, flashlight, toothbrush and sweeper
chargers. These all use electricity and are often plugged into a receptacle 24 hours a
day.
Individually, these devices don’t use much energy – somewhere between 1 Watt and 15
Watts when on standby. But together, they can amount to a significant amount of base
load use. And, in the cases of devices that are on just in case they will be used, as in
the example of a TV with a memory of stations and a faster start up, this energy is truly
wasted. In fact, in the average home, 75% of the electricity used to power home
electronics is used while the products are turned off!
This “standby” power use amounts to about 5% of electricity use in a typical home.
There is governmental movement toward requiring equipment to have a standby energy
use of 1 Watt or less. This may happen in 2007. Until then, buying Energy Star rated
electronics can save as much as 50% of the standby energy these products use.
2
Energy and Consumer Bill Savings for the Top Ten Standby Power Consumers
You can see from the chart above that the average appliance uses 5.2 Watts in standby
mode. Once the new federal regulations take place, these same 10 appliances will only
use an average of 1.3 Watts in standby mode. The average electric bill will be reduced
by 30 kWh for each of these 10 appliances for a savings of an average of $2.40 each
month for each of these appliances.
Until these new standards are in place, one way to save this energy is to plug the
device into a power strip that can be turned off on the power strip. For example,
kitchens often have multiple clocks – a clock in the coffee maker, a clock in the
microwave and a clock in the range. The coffee maker and microwave could be
plugged into a power strip and the power strip can be turned on when someone wants
to use the microwave or coffee maker. This way, the clock is only on when the
appliance is being used. A microwave digital clock uses about 2 Watts of energy even
when it is not being used! Or, unplug the device at the electrical receptacle.
3
Standby Power FAQ
What is standby power?
Standby power is the power consumed by an appliance during the lowest possible electricity consuming
mode. Our Standby Power Definition page provides a more detailed definition.
Why isn't it called leaking electricity anymore?
The term "leaking electricity" was technically incorrect. We used it because no "proper" term had been
agreed upon. After much discussion, however, industry, government, and research organizations all
agreed that they could live with the term "standby power" instead.
The term "leaking electricity" first appeared (as far as we know) in a paper presented by Eje Sandberg at
a European conference in 1993. (Sandberg, Eje. 1993. "Electronic Home Equipment - Leaking
Electricity." In The Energy Efficiency Challenge for Europe. Rungstedgard, Denmark: European Council
for an Energy Efficient Economy.) For comparison, the literal translation of the Japanese term for standby
power is "waiting appliance electricity", while the translation of the French is "electricity used while an
appliance is sleeping at its post".
Which appliances consume standby power and how much?
Anything with an external power supply (wallpack), remote control, or clock display require standby
electricity.
Some of the most common products are TVs, VCRs, cable boxes, stereo systems, and telephone
answering machines. Our Data page presents measured standby power use of these and other domestic
appliances.
In most countries, TVs and VCRs have the greatest total standby energy consumption. If you inspect your
home and tally up the appliances, you may be surprised how many appliances use electricity all the time.
And the appliances we focus on represent only a small fraction of those that exist. From remote control
dog doors to automatic plant feeders, the opportunities for using standby power are nearly limitless. To
get an idea of just how many appliances with standby power use are currently manufactured, check out
some of the products featured at Smarthome.com.
How do I measure standby power?
To measure standby power accurately, you will need a suitable power meter. Unfortunately, few meters
have sufficient resolution to measure standby power accurately. In addition, appropriate meters are not
cheap. If you are still interested in buying a safe and accurate meter, try looking at a few of these
vendors. For those of you that can't afford an expensive meter, here are two simple ways to measure
standby power use in your home. Feel free to peruse our Measuring Standby Losses page for more
information on how we measure standby power at LBL.
Is standby power use necessary?
Although appliances require some electricity for standby functions, most standby power is consumed by
inefficient power supplies and unnecessarily energized components. This is mainly because appliance
manufacturers have no reason to design their products with efficiency in mind -- after all, they don't pay
4
your electricity bill! Some important appliance functions that do require small amounts of electricity
include:





Maintaining signal reception capability (for remote control, telephone or network signal)
Monitoring temperature or other conditions (such as in a refrigerator)
Powering an internal clock
Battery charging
Continuous display
From a hardware point of view, there are only two common contributors to standby power use: lowvoltage power supplies and DC circuitry (including sensors and displays). For more information about
appliance components and their relationship to standby power use, see our Technologies to Reduce
Standby Power Consumption page.
How much power is used for standby in the US?...Worldwide?
Nobody knows for sure, but here is a table of national standby power estimates for several countries.
Current estimates indicate that standby power use in the U.S. accounts for about 5% of residential
electricity use, implying that residential consumers in the U.S. spend over 4 billion dollars on standby
power every year. In Japan, Germany and the Netherlands, standby power comprises 10 to 15 percent of
total residential electricity use.
Is standby growing or shrinking?
In spite of highly successful voluntary programs directed mainly at TVs and VCRs, overall standby use is
probably still growing. The number of new appliances with electronic controls continues to grow rapidly.
Based on international trends, we expect electronic controls to be incorporated into many "white goods" -such as refrigerators, dishwashers, and air conditioners -- within the next ten years.
Can standby power consumption be reduced?
We estimate that a 75% reduction is possible in new equipment. The savings can be achieved through
improvements in (1) hardware, such as power supplies, IC chips and I/O components, and (2) software,
with the implementation of more efficient power management. In an effort to help manufacturers reduce
standby power consumption in their products, we've compiled a list of technologies presently available on
our design help page. We believe that nearly all domestic appliances can be designed to serve standby
functions using no more than one quarter of what they presantly use.
For additional information about the Standby Power project at LBNL, please contact:
Alan Meier
Berkeley Lab (LBNL), Building 90-2000
Berkeley, California 94720 USA
Tel. +1 (510) 486-4740 Fax +1 (510) 486-4673
e-mail: [email protected]
Updated April 21, 1999
Source: http://standby.lbl.gov/faq.html
5
6
Measured Appliance Standby Loads
Source: J.P. Ross and Alan Meier. 2000. Whole-House Measurements of Standby Power
Consumption. Proceedings of The Second International Conference on Energy Efficiency in
Household Appliances, Naples (Italy), September 2000. Also published as LBNL-45967.
7
The Christian Science Monitor
USA economy section
from the October 28, 2004 edition
Snazzier houses bring energy crisis home
to middle class
By Ron Scherer | Staff writer of The Christian Science Monitor
NEW YORK – In Ossining, N.Y., a "For Sale" sign hangs on a seven-bedroom home with six
fireplaces, an indoor pool with a waterfall, and a steam room. In Wayland, Mass., a 6,500-squarefoot home on the market features a master suite with two baths. And in Washington Township,
N.J., a five-bedroom, seven-bath home includes a 150-gallon fish tank and a game room with its
own hot tub.
These examples may be extreme, but they're indicative of the "SUVing," as some people call it, of
the American home. And they show one reason why utility bills, even before the first inflated one
this winter, are going up.
The old homestead - and not just the kind with seven baths - is increasingly filled with multiple
refrigerators, plasma TV sets, and lap pools. The result is that this year's energy woes, more than
ever, are hitting the American middle class and upper middle class as well as the poor.
"I recently toured a $1.2 million home which had a $28,000 high-definition television that uses as
much electricity as the furnace does," says Neal Elliott, industrial program director of the
American Council for an Energy Efficient Economy (ACEEE).
Home heating-oil prices are 60 percent higher than a year ago. Propane, often used by rural and
lower-income families, is 30 percent higher.
Natural gas, currently about 11 percent higher than last year, is expected to rise in price once
winter begins. In fact on Tuesday, natural-gas prices hit their highest prewinter level ever on the
futures market.
For the average family, these higher prices may be a wake-up call. In 2000, ACEEE estimated
the average home budget for energy was about $6,000, split evenly between fueling the family
car and heating the hearth. Now, that number is estimated to be between $8,000 and $9,000, Mr.
Elliott says.
"All of a sudden this is a big chunk, particularly for the lower-income and fixed-income
households," he says.
Moreover, it's not just mega-appliances that have raised energy consumption. The increased use
of "plug-ins" is also making an impact. For example, a cellphone charger, if left plugged in,
continues to consume a few watts of energy. The same is true for the microwave, VCR, stereo,
and home computer. Secretary of Energy Spencer Abraham calls them "energy vampires"
because they are constantly sucking a little bit of wattage out of the wall. "After a while they all
add up to be as big a load factor as the refrigerator," says Elliott.
8
Energy expenses are rising even though many houses have better insulation and efficient
"Energy Star" windows. New standards have also made appliances such as refrigerators and air
conditioners more efficient. This lowers the cost of heating on a per-square-foot basis.
But at the same time, the nation's abodes, just like the size of the average car, are getting larger
and more complicated. According to the National Association of Home Builders, the average new
house was 2,230 square feet in 2003, compared with 1,500 square feet in 1970. And it's not
unusual to see something much larger. Last year, the NAHB showcase home in Las Vegas was
more than 5,000 square feet. This year's home in Orlando, Fla., is more than 8,000 square feet.
"More and more people are seeing their home as their sanctuary, and they want every possible
amenity," says Paul Lopez, director of media relations at NAHB.
These amenities often involve water - especially hot water. For example, one of the hottest new
fads is multiple-head shower systems. In an ad, plumbing company Grohe, whose headquarters
are in Germany, writes that its Aquatower "Relaxa Plus Top 4" shower head has four spray
patterns: "an effervescent champagne stream; a pulsator massage spray; a wide soft regular
spray and wide hard regular spray."
All that hot water, of course, is coming from the hot-water heater. According to the homeimprovement website "On the House With the Carey Brothers," each shower head could shoot
three gallons of water per minute, which means four heads could drain a 40-gallon tank in less
than 3-1/2 minutes. "For true luxury and long, hot steamy showers, plan on beefing up your hot
water supply, too," say the brothers on their website.
Unfortunately for most households, boosting the hot-water supply means using more energy.
According to the National Oilheat Research Alliance, 40 percent of a home's heating oil is used
for hot water. "People have multiple dishwashers, washing machines, Jacuzzis, his-and-her
showers. We use a ton of hot water," says John Huber, president of the alliance.
What's more, Americans are adding refrigerators so they don't have to travel far for a cold drink.
"We're seeing that second, third, or fourth refrigerator in a home," says Elliott. "People want a
small one upstairs, one in the basement, maybe one in the garage."
Decorative natural-gas fireplaces retrofitted in a traditional chimney are also big energy
consumers, says Mr. Huber. "When they are installed, a steel wedge is inserted by the damper to
make sure they are never closed. So they are always sucking heat out of the room and right up
the chimney."
This winter's high cost of maintaining all these amenities may start to slow the trend. In 2001,
both New York and California faced electricity crises. This prompted a return to conservation,
says Elliott. The reduced demand helped lower natural-gas prices.
"We know we can affect behavior if we commit to it," he says. "But so far we haven't seen any
leadership on the state and national level saying we have to do something."
9
Other
Other
1
Dehumidifiers
The level of humidity in a room is often talked about in terms of Relative Humidity (RH).
The RH of a room is the amount of water vapor present in the air compared to how
much water vapor the air could hold at that same temperature. Relative humidity of a
room should be somewhere between 30% and 60%. If RH is higher than 60%, bacteria
and mold can grow and cause health problems.
A dehumidifier is designed to bring room humidity level down to a comfortable and
healthy level.
Dehumidifiers use refrigeration coils, compressors and fans to remove moisture. The
water vapor is removed from the air by refrigerating the air, thus forcing it to give up
some of its water vapor. This drying process removes heat from the air. Then, the
dehumidifier reheats the air making it somewhat like a space heater. Some
dehumidifiers use more energy than others to operate.
How to Use a Dehumidifier the Most Energy Efficient Way Possible








Use the right size dehumidifier for the space. Dehumidifiers are sold by
capacity, in pints, of water that they will need to remove. Using the incorrect
size dehumidifier can cause the compressor to cycle on and off inefficiently.
Use a dehumidifier with a humidistat. This control will turn the dehumidifier
compressor off when the level of desired humidity is reached and back on
when the humidity level rises.
Be sure to set the humidistat at the proper RH so the dehumidifier does not
work longer to reach a lower RH than necessary.
Be sure to empty the bucket before it is full so the water does not spill on the
floor and have to be dehumidified again. Consider draining the bucket by
connecting a hose to a sump pump or drain.
Keep sources of water away from the dehumidifier so it does not have to work
as much. In other words, be sure the dryer is vented, plants are removed and
water leaks are fixed.
Close windows and doors to the space with the dehumidifier. It the outside is
humid and the doors and windows are open, the dehumidifier will try to
dehumidify the outdoors.
Locate the dehumidifier away from walls and furniture so the air can move
around it freely. If it has a top mounted air discharge, it can be located
against a wall.
Don’t use a dehumidifier with air conditioning. Both work to remove moisture
but the air conditioner cools the air while the dehumidifier warms the air.
Other
2

If the air temperature drops below 65 degrees, dehumidifier coils can frost up
causing the dehumidifier to cycle on and off repeatedly and not reduce
moisture level. Turn the dehumidifier off and allow it to defrost. Check
moisture level with a humidity gauge (hygrometer) and determine if
dehumidification is still necessary.
Shopping for a new dehumidifier
Buy an Energy Star dehumidifier with the necessary capacity and with a humidistat.
Energy Star qualified dehumidifiers can save consumers about $20 a year as compared
to a non Energy Star dehumidifier. These units have more efficient coils, compressors
and fans.
Be sure to buy the right sized unit for the space that needs dehumidification. See the
chart below for sizing (in pints).
Area (Sq. Feet)
Condition without Dehumidification
500 1,000 1,500 2,000 2,500
Moderately Damp (space feels damp and has musty odor only in humid
weather)
10
14
18
22
26
Very Damp (space always feels damp and has musty odor. Damp spots
show on walls and floor.)
12
17
22
27
32
Wet (space feels and smells wet. Walls or floor sweat, or seepage is
present.)
14
20
26
32
38
Extremely Wet (laundry drying, wet floor, high load conditions.)
16
23
30
37
44
Source: Association of Home Appliance Manufacturers (AHAM).
Other
3
Other
4
Waterbed Heaters
Most waterbed heaters use between 150 and 300 Watts. Soft sided waterbeds only
require the lower Wattage heaters, while hard sided waterbeds require the higher
Wattage heaters.
Soft sided waterbeds account for about half of the waterbed sales these days, while
hard sided waterbeds account for the other half.
Waterbed History
Waterbed sales began in the 1960’s and peaked in 1988. Sales have declined
annually. In the mid 1990’s, 15% to 20% of U.S. households had at least one waterbed.
Lower income families account for about 25% of waterbed sales because of the lower
upfront cost. However, the waterbed heater adds to the monthly electric bill, making the
long term cost of owning a waterbed higher than a regular bed.
Waterbed heaters used to be available in one type only – a mercury-type,
thermostatically controlled heater using up to 380 Watts. These older models kept the
waterbed mattress within three degrees of the thermostat setting.
Waterbed heaters have changed in the last 7 or 8 years. Now, solid state waterbed
heaters are available, containing a circuit board that makes it much more accurate.
They keep the waterbed temperature within 1/2 degree of the setting. This accuracy
helps with efficiency because the sleeper is not tempted to turn the heat up and down.
Waterbed Heater Energy Use
Many variables affect waterbed energy consumption: the temperature in the room; the
user’s comfort level; the size and type of the bed; the use mattress pads; and the user’s
bed-making habits. For example, keeping the bed covered costs half of what it costs
when the bed is uncovered.
Most waterbed heaters use between 150 and 300 Watts.


The average older waterbed heater uses 125 kWh per month which costs almost
$11 a month.
The average newer waterbed heater uses 80 kWh per month which costs almost
$7 a month.
Weatherization programs that have monitored savings due to replacing waterbeds with
foam mattresses or installing foam mattress pads have found the following:


1,300 kWh annually ($111) was saved when the waterbed mattress was
removed and replaced with a new foam mattress that fit into the waterbed frame.
800 kWh annually ($68) was saved when the existing waterbed was covered with
a foam mattress pad.
Replacing a waterbed with a foam mattress is a cost effective measure. Covering a
waterbed with a mattress pad is a cost effective measure.
The next two pages show pictures of waterbed heaters, controls and mattress covers.
Other
5
Waterbed Heater for Hardside or Wood Frame Waterbeds








Waterbed Heater certified to the standards
of the Underwriter's Labratories for
Waterbed Heaters #1445
18 Guage power cord 32-guage
Nickle/Copper flexible curcuitry Larger Pad
with 24-guage Thermal Fused Duraflex®
Vinyl
Standard Black Control Base
Control Holds Temperature to + or - 2 1/2
Degrees of set point
Lighted Dial
300 watts
Dial marked from 70 to 100 degrees
Pad is 13" X 35.5"
Waterbed Heater Pad Internals:

300 Watt energy saver design

Solid state for more precise temperature
control
300 Watt energy sentry design
Sources: http://www.abcwaterbed.com, http://www.e-waterbeds.com
Other
6
Fitted Style Thermal Mattress Pad
Thermal Mattress Pad with Anchor Bands
Sources: http://www.abcwaterbed.com, http://www.e-waterbeds.com
Other
7
Sump Pumps, Water Pumps, Well Pumps, Pool Pumps,
Pressure Tanks
Water pumping devices use electricity. They should use electricity intermittently – that
is, when needed. Sump pumps should pump when there is water to remove from the
house and well pumps should pump when water is being called for in the house.
However, sometimes these pumps pump longer than they should because of a leak or
other problem.
Pump energy consumption varies based on pump size, household water use, pump
operating pressure and the depth of the water table. Proper maintenance and service
of the well, plumbing and pump saves both water and energy. Leaky faucets, showers
and hoses can increase demand on a well pump by 2 to 3 gallons per minute.
Weatherization contractors should interview customers about pump use. Most sump
pumps can be seen or heard from the house and if they are running too often, the cause
of the flooding should be stopped and/or the pump check valve may need to be
replaced. Contractors should also check the customer’s electricity use records to see if
there are signs of unexplained use. Maybe the well pump is running longer than it
should.
If you can hear a pump kick on and off in quick succession, a storage tank, or pressure
tank, can be “water logged”, which means it contains too much water. If it contains too
much water, the pressure sensor that controls the pump is over activated, causing the
pump to work too long. Because the start up phase of the pumping cycle requires the
most energy, well pump energy consumption greatly increases. The system is using a
large quantity of electricity causing wear and tear on the pump motor, possibly
overheating it and causing a hazard.
To remedy the situation, the contractor will need to find the leaks in the system and
repair them. Then, the tank will need to be partially drained and air pumped back into it.
A plumber may need to be called.
Also, pump sizing should not be ignored. Many ¾ horsepower pumps are installed in
wells that require only a ½ horsepower pump. Proper sizing can save the customer
about 100 kWh annually, or $8.50, as well as saving on the cost of the pump.
Pool pumps energy consumption varies based on the volume and depth of the pool, the
size of the pump and the length of time the pump operates. The easiest way to reduce
pool pump energy consumption is to make sure the pump is sized correctly and runs no
longer than necessary. Also, timers can be installed to control the pumping cycle. For
each hour the pumping time is reduced, 150 kWh annually (almost $13) can be saved.
Some pools only need to be filtered for about 3 hours a day.
Other
8


Installing a timer on a pool pump will reduce energy use by about $1 a month for
each hour a day that the pump is not running. If the customer used to run the
pump for 12 hours a day and the timer allows the pump to run for only 3 hours a
day, the bill will be reduced by about $9 a month.
New energy efficient pumps can save 36% of the operating cost for pumping
water as compared to older pumps.
Source: John Krigger and Chris Dorsi 2004.. “Residential Energy: Cost Savings and Comfort for
Existing Buildings”. Saturn Resource Management, Inc. Helena, MT.
Other
9
Other 10
Filter Cleaning and Replacement
Electric and combustion furnace filters, heat pump filters, central air conditioning filters,
and room air conditioner filters may be cleaned and/or replaced as part of
weatherization programs. The reason this is an eligible measure is that dirty filters allow
dirt to pass through them and the dirt make motors dirty which make them work harder
which uses more electricity. The amount of energy saved by replacing a filter is difficult
to determine and no known studies have been done to determine these savings.
Clean heat pump filters are paramount to efficient operation of the heat pump.
Filters should be checked. If the filter is dirty, a new, re-usable filter may be installed.
The customer must be educated about regular filter care and cleaning.
When the weatherization contractor checks the filter(s) in a heat pump or cooling
system air handler, she/he can often see the inside evaporative coil. If the coil is dirty, it
should be cleaned. The contractor may clean the coil or an HVAC contractor may be
called in to do an entire system clean and tune. Heat pump and central air conditioning
systems must be cleaned when the system can be turned on, so winter “clean and
tunes” are not possible.
Other 11

Electric Baseload Basics (Hands-On)

Transcription

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