Day Trips - Language of the Wilderness

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Day Trips (Teachers/Students)
We were very excited and a bit nervous about this module as it meant testing our very original an innovative
theme of the ‘Elephant and the rain’ an original a largely unknown San story interpretation as documented by
Mr Schoeman and is brought to life on Xkagodi –San the farm owned by Rodger and his brother. Here follows
some background:
In my first week of arriving in the Baviaanskloof it was important for me as a budding manager to survey the
area within my responsibility. Coincidentally my first reconnaissance was via the amphitheatre in Hoeree on my
way to the wilderness boundary. I remember stopping and getting out only to be overwhelmed by the aesthetic
aura of this setting. I have come of age in things Baviaanskloof and through all this time I have been constantly
drawn to and reminded of this place. Why?
Here is my answer to this question:
I have grown up pretty much in the bush, and my many wanderings have been
affected by sights, smells and sounds of the bush and at times a kind of primitive
awakening which I will call aura. This aura is a very superficial and dynamic in that
it is affected by moods, time of the day, seasons etc and certainly my own frame of
mind at the time. I generally plot these places based on that memory as a kind of
navigational aid. Some places burn deeper than others on my memory hard drive
and this Amphitheatre is one of them. This is very significant to me and therefore
serves as the basis for this interesting hypothesis.
This Ancient Communication survey saw me revisiting old sites I had previously
come across and discovering new ones. In and around this amphitheatre I
discovered a nest of sites and other interesting phenomena, which cemented old gut
feelings and sparked, awakened interest in Khoisan life and understanding.
The area in question is situated on a piece of privately owned ground on the
boundary of the Baviaanskloof’s southwestern boundary.
It lies within the small water catchment that emanates from the intermediary range between the Tsitsikamma
and the Kouga mountains, which translates into a seasonal river with no name. An old map from 1939 gives the
name Stoeikloof to area described. This riverbed has eroded the magnificent kloof that is home to a range of
interesting biodiversity and is home to the amphitheatre.
Orthophoto View of Amphitheatre
KEY:
Significant plants
(Cycads or Dioscorea sp.)
Khoisan Sites
Amphitheatre
Stone Finger
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I believe this ensemble of so many sites (13), the associated faunal and floral aura, the stone finger and tortoise
(there are many other inanimate points of interest) and of course the Amphitheatre itself is an overpowering
statement.
In my travels through the Baviaanskloof I
have never come across this kind of
phenomena so busily bunched together, and
in my restricted travels through Khoisan and
associated literature have yet to have read
about similar observations.
Tortoise
Finger
Here is a whole range of interesting observations (in and around the Amphitheatre) and notions which are
intended to stimulate specialist and amateur interest on a number of levels towards a better understanding of
things Khoisan as follows:
1.The rock art in these sites seems to be more surreal, deeper and dying to tell a story. The presence of elephants
is heavy (5) which further emphasizes the spiritual/religious atmosphere. The presence of ‘Finger dots only’ on
the underside of ledges at one particular site, and this sites unusual predicament of being literally behind the
veil of a waterfall add mystery. The unusual art (unfortunately weathered) at the very old predator/leopard lair
is interesting. This site inspires the connection spoken about in the Incarnate San document between the San and
Leopards but also the unique double entry, entry/exit connection of these two eerie underground orbs into the
earth is powerful, and the fact that these eyes look over the amphitheatre may be a significant coincidence.
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2.
The stone finger and other interesting landmarks could be significant. Like the stone carvings of the Egyptians
or the Easter Island stones these landmarks (the most obvious and awe inspiring) could have played an
important role in site choice and other spiritual/religious matters. There are many other interesting potential
alignment/strategically placed geological / archaeoastronomical landmarks which need to be researched by
specialists in this field.
3. Faunal and floral significance of the leopard lair site and the presence of a cycad forest with two painted sites
and the presence of the Elephants foot of the family Dioscorea right in the centre of the amphitheatre. The
Dioscorea plant is really the most overpowering indicator that this place was powerful due to its position and
age (3000years??).
This one plant is the largest and therefore the oldest plant I
have come across in the area, and occurs in a spot where I
would not expect to find one. Generally these plants are found
on Northern dryer aspects and associated with valley bushveld
or spekboom veld. For these reasons and its position in context
with the amphitheatre I hypothesise this plant was planted
here by the San for a very important reason.
One must also bear in mind that this plant is a rich source of natural
cortisone.
Elephant Foot (Dioscorea elephantipes)
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A shrine to the elephant people of the Kou’ke Mountains?
Thanks to Dave and Katrina Holroy and an interesting San folk tale
I read as retold by the late P.J. Schoeman I believe that we are
getting nearer to the essence of this powerful place. Elephants are
the key and a very significant if not obvious assumption is made.
Here follows the San tale “The elephant and the rain” told to Mr.
Schoeman by Xameb and Twihi:
Cycads (Encephalartus longifolia)
One day Quap, the elephant, and Xanus, the Rain, decided to get married. At first everything went well,
but eventually they quarrelled. Elephant kept on saying: ‘I am the strongest of all living things, and Rain
kept on saying: all that lives, lives through me’.
To convince his wife, who wore the rainbow as a girdle around her waist, that he was not boasting, he
curled his trunk around a big mopani tree and pulled it from the ground, root and branch. Then he
trumpeted loudly.
Rain watched him for a while and wondered whether she should not stab him with her tongue of
lightning. Then her eyes fell on the withered leaves of the mopani tree, and she thought and thought.
Elephant thought: ‘Aha … she is beginning to fear my great strength and my booming voice’. Then he
trumpeted louder than ever and called all the other animals to come and see how his wife trembled
when he spoke to her. She did not wait for the animals to arrive. She merely said to him: ‘That boasting
mouth of yours will be the death of you yet. I shall take my things and go to my own people’. Elephant
pushed his ears forward, curled his trunk in the air, and said: ‘I don’t care where you go. I shall find the
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water I need in the swamps, in the bulbs and roots’. Rain did not reply. She merely waved her girdle
over the land and disappeared. And with her she took all the moisture.
Elephant thought to himself: ‘Aha.. how nice will it be to have quiet and peace all day long’. Soon
hunger sat heavily upon Elephant and he started ripping the sweet bark off the mopani trees. He
chewed and chewed but found no sap in the bark. Then he said to himself: ‘My throat has become dry
from quarrelling with a woman who cannot keep quiet’. Hungry and thirsty he trudged down to the
swamp. There he found only deep cracks in the surface of the ground.
He then went to the sand dunes to dig for water bulbs. But all the bulbs were dried out. Strong old
Elephant bull!… He wandered hither and tither but his throat became drier and drier. Then he dug a
huge hole under a shady tree and lay down. His skin started to dry as a result of the dry air. His mouth
opened wider and wider as his skin continued to shrink. He started groaning.
Then he heard a whistle. It was Xan-bib, the bush Korhaan. In a hoarse voice he called Xan-bib and said:
‘Man-with-the-whistle, come here so that I can send you to my wife Rain. The Man-with-the –whistle
came nearer. Elephant took the string of white beads from his neck and gave it to the bush Korhaan.
‘Here take this,’ he said. ‘She made it for me and hung it around my neck. When she sees that you have
it, she will know that I sent you. Tell her to come quickly.’
Bush Korhaan really started whistling when he saw how the land lay, and took the string of white
beads. Elephant’s groans made him hurry and he ran for all he was worth. He said to Rain: ‘Look at this
string of beads that you yourself hung around your husbands neck … He asks you to come
immediately’. Rain said: ‘I shall not go,’ and she rumbled so loudly that Man-with-the-whistle lost
weight from sheer fright … and he ran as fast as his legs could carry him, back to the one-that-groans.
‘Elephant,’ he said, ‘I have been to your wife. She refuses to listen.’ Elephants trunk was by this time too
slack to lash the one-who-gets-scared on the back; therefore he only groaned: ‘you are useless, you gumeater! Your body becomes lighter too quickly when you get scared. Get out of the way … downwind I
say!’
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Just then the parson-crow came along to see whether there would not be any carrion soon, and said:
‘Nxaa, nxaa!’ out of pure impatience. Elephant called him. ‘Take these beads, put them around your
neck and go and tell my wife that I am dying of thirst’.
The black one with the beads around his neck went to Rain perched himself on a branch and said:
‘Nxaa, nxaa … I have come to call the strong man’s wife’.
Rain did not like this kind of talk and split the tree with lightening. The black one with the white neck
flew to another tree and repeated his story.
Rain split that tree too. Pieces of bark flew off. The black one persisted, flying from tree to tree.
Rain began to get tired of putting her tongue out and said: ‘I have always told him that his boastful
mouth would be the death of him. Go now and tell him that I’m coming’.
Crow hurried to Elephant whom he found in a very weak condition, and called out: ‘She’s coming’.
And there she was already, wrapped in a dark blanket, without a rumble and the air was filled with the
smell of rain.
By now Elephant was too weak to lift his head. As he lay in the hole while it poured with rain. Elephant
drank and drank, but everything kept running out as his skin had shrunk because it was so dry. But the
water filled out the big one’s skin again. Then he stood up.
Rain came nearer and said: ‘Now, have you learned your lesson? … I often told you that a big mouth is
of no use. If I had stayed away a little longer everything would have been over as far as your concerned’.
Elephant did not say a word.
And Rain became very annoyed. ‘Its useless saying nothing now’. He bowed his head and she
disappeared. But she left a hollow in the mountain full of water for him.
Elephant said to Tortoise: ‘Sit near this water of mine, and see that it is not wasted’.
Then the birds and the hares and the buck all came to ask Tortoise whether they might have a drink.
Tortoise never refused anybody any water. When Elephant came to drink again there was no water left.
He was very angry and asked Tortoise: ‘What has happened to all the water I told you to look after?’
Tortoise replied: ‘I told the people that this was the strong man’s water, but they drank’.
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Elephant could not take his mind off the water and asked again: ‘Tortoise where is the water I told you
to look after?’ And Tortoise repeated his previous answer. So it continued for a while. Then elephant
started talking louder and louder. ‘You are so small I could easily swallow you,’ he shouted.
Tortoise answered in a soft voice: ‘You may swallow me, but what wrong did I do? The hares were
thirsty’.
This answer in a soft voice only made the Elephant more angry, and he roared through the air: ‘Be
careful or I shall crush you under my feet and then swallow you’.
Then Tortoise was silent.
This made Elephant with the loud voice even more angry. ‘Why are you so silent? I shall swallow you,’
he roared.
And all those who had drunk of the water stood listening and peeping from behind bushes and rocks.
Elephant saw them and then he spoke even louder: ‘Why should I speak so much to one as small as
you? I shall swallow you’. And then he swallowed Tortoise.
All those who had peeped and listened came out of their hiding place and shouted: ‘Oh … Elephant has
swallowed Tortoise’.
Inside, Tortoise became distressed and started scratching Elephant’s tummy with his nails.
In great pain Elephant shouted: ‘Come out by my mouth’. But Tortoise replied: ‘No, you will crush me
with your big clumsy feet’.
And so it went on. Each time Elephant spoke Tortoise scratched deeper and harder with his nails. This
pain he could not stand and Elephant fell down dead.
Then everyone who had peeped and listened shouted: ‘The little one has killed the big one’.
Tortoise then took one of Elephant’s intestines, pulled it over his head … and slipped through his
mouth. And he heard them all shout: ‘Now we have a lot of meat to make biltong’.
And the small one took to his heels. In this flight the intestine became his tough, long neck, and a shell
on his back. Since that day Tortoise has been able to withdraw his head.
The End
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What really excites me about all of these facts combined with imaginative, gut feel theories and
observations is how the story documented above comes so wonderfully to life in what is for me such a
profound discovery. Profound in that it has given others and me a context that suddenly brings a
strange and rather intangible story into a more tangible and living context, which is uncanny. I find
myself more intrigued and somehow it creates a more accessible link to an ancient time, which has
proved a powerful opiate of growth and understanding for me and some good friends and colleagues.
Here follows some interesting and relevant observations that bring this story to life:
A seed was sown many years ago when I managed to get Dr Binneman to visit amongst others the
shelter originally named Dassie (See Survey Report). I remember discussing the significance of Elephant
paintings and how due to the relative popularity of this animal in the art of the Baviaans he postulated
that maybe these animals were a kind of totem or equivalent/replacement to the Eland of the Kalahari
or Drakensberg San. I believe the fact that 5 elephant murals in close proximity to the Amphitheatre are
more than coincidental. In fact the site called Amphitheatre was not a living site yet boasts one
prominent mural of an elephant.
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The first school for the day trip was Krakeel Primary who served as the thermometer for our day trip
programme and this was how it unfolded:
With two vehicles the Unimog and the 4x4 Bakkie we collected the kids (12) and the two teachers at the
school at around 08h30 and departed for the Kouga mountains. Once on the gravel road and at a high
point we stopped and climbed out of the vehicles for an orientation lesson. On completion of this the
day’s events were spelt out as it was to unfold and an approximate time frame given.
A stop was made on the farm Kransfontein where a brief history was given regarding the ‘boer’ and
‘settler history. The great stonewall was also alluded to and the possibility that it was built by Bantu
peoples from the past with stonemason skills was mooted.
Next stop was at the old residence of the ‘Umtwa’ family who served the Kritzinger’s for many
generations. We laid perspective on this relationship making reference to the initial class lesson rhetoric
and the name ’Umtwa’ has a very primitive Khoisan ring to it.
While descending the steep pass into ‘Stoeikloof’ we spotted some Klipspringer and a brief overview of
interesting anecdotes around their niche and behaviour was given. A pair of crows was also seen and
similarly their important role in the scavenging chain was highlighted.
The first major stop begins at the entrance to the kloof and we all leave the vehicles on foot upstream to
the mountain man complex. A variety of medicinal plants are pointed out in their natural environment,
most of those dealt with in our lesson and a few others. Just before entering the two San sites we give
the kids a short lesson in respect for the sites and the legalities of disturbing such sites. This entails being
careful and looking not touching. At the cave entrance we stimulate a bit of archaeological interaction
and ask the kids and teachers for signs of human habitation. As the cave walls are blackened by fires this
was the first connection that people lived in these sites, but most of the blackening they noticed was
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natural fire and the details of human signs were highlighted with paintings, ash build up, pottery/tools
scattered on the floor surface etc. The presence of swift mud nest evoked some interesting links
regarding suitability of the sites and reference to rain behaviour was highlighted. The presence of
medicinal/useful plants was also highlighted as an indicator of human presence and here the Solanum sp
and Sutherlandia frutescens was obvious, the Pachypodium sp with its great edible underground edible
‘kambro’ was uncovered.
We then moved around the corner to the twin site and repeated the exercise – this time all the important
signs were correctly identified and served as our cue to seat everyone and tell them the story of the
‘elephant and the rain’ setting the tone and theme for the day.
We stood up to notice some more Klipspringer on the krantz just opposite. Leaving the sites we
proceeded to climb out on the opposite side to a position where we could view the sites from a distance
and stimulated the kids imagination to be able to see the mountain man or ‘rockeater’. The sites we
visited clearly seen served as the orbs or eyes, the shape of the folded hill served as the head and a
profusion of cycads at the top the fuzzy hair, like that of the San people. The red krantzes serving as
great heavy eyebrows.
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This juncture is used to open the kids’ eyes to an interesting geological happening whereby what used
to be an interesting land bridge with a keyhole to allow the river to flow through, eventually was
weakened and collapsed, leaving only this eye-opening hypotheses for critical analysis. This observation
is meant to get these children thinking and also inspiring them to use their senses and appreciate all that
is around them. Within the context of the day we really need to acclimatise and prepare them for the
other interesting discoveries of the day and need them to really get into their role as participants of an
unfolding and yet complete story.
This picture should help the reader to confirm
what we were trying to highlight. One can see
a large chunk of sandstone lying in the valley,
however the angle of the photo makes it
impossible to see the other large breaks.
We make our way back to the vehicles and
from the banter and mood of the children it is
obvious their anticipation and curiosity has
been fired.
Just beyond the point where the vehicle was
parked the vehicle is stopped at a crucial
point and the kids are asked to look back and
see if they can see the largest mountain
tortoise in the world. We give the dimensions
as 5 metres tall, 20 metres long and weigh
around 70 tonnes.
They immediately recognise the rock formation and explode into excited banter.
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We stop at a very prominent overhang right next to the road and exit the vehicle. This San site has some
really interesting and impressive paintings. As we enter, we remind the children about care and respect
and allow them to explore. We challenge them to find clues to clarify that people used to make use of
the site.
It does not take long for them to notice the marvellous paintings and especially the (4) elephant
paintings. A concise overview is given regarding the academic features of the art, and paint mixing. An
introduction into the worldview of the San and Khoekoen is also addressed and the children are asked
to contribute to an interpretation. The world of trance is discussed and one interesting figure used to
demonstrate this more surreal approach. Finally the elephant are discussed along with the Eland and the
possibility mooted that maybe these were the elephant people of the Kouga.
The presence of sheep dung is very obvious and layered in the site, possibly evidence of Khoekoen
peoples using the site at night to kraal their animals.
One of the white paintings comes across as a
fat-tailed sheep like creature adding to the
puzzle.
Finally we discover the huge Spekboom and
explain its usefulness as a browse plant for a
host of animals including eland and elephant.
Its ability to regenerate from a cutting and its
high vitamin C content. As it is edible everyone
gets a chance to taste the sour leaves. Just
before leaving a wild bee nest is pointed out
and the significance and importance of honey
for the San re-iterated and clarified. Our very
own honey-bush tea is also discussed at this
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point and the essence of the community based project with its fantastic ‘sustainable development ‘
objectives divulged.
The next stop is the most physically challenging,
over Klipbok Rante on to the Rain Cave. On the
way up we come across a pool of water, we
liken this to the water that rain left the elephant,
that was guarded by the tortoise.
Once in the rain cave we allow everyone to find
a place and settle. We then ask everyone to be
part of a test of endurance and stay absolutely
silent for two minutes. The signal is given and
the time starts. Two minutes for kids of this age
is a long time and one can notice a change of
mood after about 30 seconds, it would be fair to
say that in this setting after the physical
exertion, a centering is evident. On two minutes
a well-mimicked baboon warning bark is let off
and startles everyone back to reality and
probably a spurt of adrenaline.
We then hand out a sugar boost in the form of
marshmallows and pose the question – who in
the context of the story would have used this
site as a home base? We then allow the kids to
explore the cave and see what they can find and
what conclusions they have regarding the
question posed.
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Many interesting clues are to be found, as this was quite a substantial a well-lived site in earlier times.
Beautiful potsherds, old hearths with charred bones and most importantly paintings.
Other interesting things are the porcupine residence and the really old ‘boerboon’ trees Schotia latifolia.
The paintings are rather unique in that they are a long, linked row of brown finger dots.
They are not obvious, in fact are mostly on the underside of the various ledges in the site. The answer to
the question was unanimous as ‘rain cave’ due to the
water link. It was explained that in wetter times the
waterfall would flow over and the residents of the cave
would literally be behind the veil and dry. This makes
the site very special and we agreed that ‘rain’ would
find it most agreeable. The finger dots under the ledges
were less easily explained and our theory was this
represented drips of water that formed
under the ledges of the waterfall, almost
with a life of their own.
We then proceed to the
lower rain caves and
introduce the kids to
the
swift
people
concept,
and
on
completion of this,
each child is symbolically marked with
white chalk from the site (used in many xhosa rituals
and ceremonies) which has a definite effect and serves
as a kind of reminder of all the things they have been
given. (See appendix 2 “Swift people”)
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We then head back to the vehicles and proceed down to the river. On arrival we give a short recital of
rules and regulations, the most important being look out for each other, always remain in earshot and
no swimming without adult supervision. We then get a fire going and get ready to prepare lunch of
boerewors rolls and cool drinks. While the fire is burning down we offer the option of a swim and it is
taking up without further adieu. The swim is both refreshing and symbolic and one can really feel the
kids are taking this trip in on a very deep and tangible way.
Lunch is served and quiet introspective calm envelopes the whole group.
This break in intensity has been a strategy and now all the kids refreshed and nourished we get back I
the vehicles for the climax of the trip when we hope all the input will come together in a powerful and
inspiring manner. We arrive at the Amphitheatre and the kids get off the vehicles. It does not take long
before the huge weight and drama of the scenery gets attention from all, and immediately the short walk
up to the ‘elephant foot’ is completed. This vantage point is significant as it puts the amphitheatre in a
less overbearing context, as we are slightly elevated. The ‘elephant foot’ is discussed from a botanical
point of view and then its medicinal significance explained i.e. cortisone.
After allowing this information to be digested, we immediately start to address some of the mysterious
coincidences: this ‘elephant foot’ is a single plant and not really in a place we would expect to find it. As
the plants are male and female this means no pollination is possible – so how did the plant of such great
age (1500yrs+) come to be here? We point out the ear cave, just to the right of the main focus and explain
its secret of one fine elephant painting. We refer back to the earlier site no far up the road with the four
elephants, and remind the kids of the tortoise and the crows we saw earlier. Finally we get their
imagination alerted and ask them to see the great bull elephant head in the centre of the amphitheatre
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and within seconds they are hooked. We then proceed into a shady cove below the elephant bull and
Natasja retells the story of the ‘elephant and the rain’ with a bit more colour and drama.
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On
Bull Elephant
conclusion of the story we remind the children of the impending camp and request of them that they
compile an essay or representation of the day and its theme. They are to bring this along with them on
the camp and we would use this as a tool to evaluate our successes and failures in conveying our
message.
We further indicated our interest in producing a theatre production, which we could present to a larger
audience. The environmental message would reach more people and the schools and children involved
could benefit on various levels.
We depart and deliver the children and teachers back at the school, after some enthusiastic singing for
the return journey’s duration.
The Ear with elephant painting
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Day Trips - Language of the Wilderness

Transcription

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