Santiago de Cuba: 500 years of history
Transcription
Santiago de Cuba: 500 years of history
jul 2015 Santiago de Cuba: 500 years of history Carnaval de Santiago de Cuba: July 21-29, 2015 Baseball in Santiago de Cuba The Sanctuary at El Cobre SANTIAGO DE CUBA HAVANA GUIDE RESTAURANTS — BARS & CLUBS — ACCOMMODATION INDIVIDUAL TRAVEL to Cuba BOOK TODAY WITH CUBA TRAVEL NETWORK! Why travel with Cuba Travel Network? 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We welcome new contributors and would love hear from you if you have a Cuba-related project. “Santiago de Cuba” by Ana Lorena EDITORIAL Cuba Absolutely is joining LaHabana.com. As we gradually move to our new home, the digital destination, we will continue to showcase the best in Cuban culture, life-style, sport, travel and much more… To our loyal readers to date: thanks for your continued support! We hope you will soon be joined by many more. Together we will explore Cuba through the eyes of the best writers, photographers and filmmakers, both Cuban and international, who live, work, travel and play in Cuba. We do this through beautiful pictures, great videos, opinionated reviews, insightful articles and inside tips. For our first issue together we have gone on a road trip east from Havana, around 760km to be precise to the steamy, sultry and very Caribbean city of Santiago de Cuba. The cradle of the Revolution has had a makeover so good for its 500th Birthday to be celebrated on July 25, 2015 that even the most devout Habaneros may forgive us this month for dedicating this issue to the city. To understand the importance to Cuba of Santiago de Cuba we quote the Cuban poet, Waldo Leyva: “Si encuentras alguna piedra / que no haya sido lanzada contra el enemigo / si descubres una calle por donde no haya pasado / nunca un héroe / […] / puedes decir entonces que Santiago no existe” Should you ever find some stone that has never been hurled against the enemy, should you ever find any street over which no hero has walked… then and only then can you say that Santiago does not exist Apart from the anniversary, this month also features an article on the Anniversary of the attack on Moncada barrack which really kick started the Revolution all those years ago as well as well as pieces on Cuba’s best Carnival, held in the city from July 21-29 and the Caribe Festival del Fuego. If you need an excuse to make the trip you can always sign up for the business forum, Cuba-Caribe Fórum that takes place from July 15-17 in Santiago. We will be back to Havana for next month’s issue but in the meantime head east and enjoy the party. Abrazos! The LaHabana.com Team Santiago de Cuba port. photo Alex Mene JULY 2015 SANTIAGO DE CUBA Santiago de Cuba: 500 years young p6 Santiago de Cuba: 500 years of history p9 Baseball in Santiago de Cuba p11 EVENTS Carnival de Santiago de Cuba: July 21-29, 2015 p13 July 26: Anniversary of the attack on Moncada Barracks p15 Fiesta del Fuego, July 2015 p18 HIGHLIGHTS Parque Cespedes: Heart & Soul of Santiago de Cuba p20 The Sanctuary at El Cobre p23 Castillo San Pedro de la Roca p26 Casa de la Trova p27 HAVANA LISTINGS HAVANA GUIDE Visual Arts p32 — Photography p33 — Dance p34 —Music p35 — Cinema p42 - Theatre p43 Features - Restaurants - Bars & Clubs - Live Music Hotels - Private Accommodation p52 Santiago de Cuba: 500 years young by Victoria Alcalá Until we started celebrating the half-millennium of the founding of first seven towns in Cuba, we seemed to have been living under the illusion of knowing the order in which they were established: Nuestra Señora de la Asunción de Baracoa (1511), San Salvador del Bayamo (1513), Santísima Trinidad (1514), Sancti Spíritus (1514), San Cristóbal de La Habana (1514), Santa María del Puerto Príncipe (1515) and Santiago de Cuba (1515). It is said that the eighth town, La Sabana, later called El Cayo or San Juan de los Remedios del Cayo, came into being on some unrecorded date in the first half of the sixteenth century, although quite a bit later than the first seven. With such an avalanche of “500th anniversaries,” changes have been made to the order: Puerto Principe, which today is called Camagüey, held its festivities before Sancti Spíritus did, Havana postponed theirs until 2019 to coincide with the 500th year of its present-day site, and Remedios celebrated before Santiago did. The key factor in all this seems to be that, except Baracoa, all the other towns have moved from their original locations and some of them decided to celebrate the dates of their original settlements, though hardly no traces of them remain. And so Santiago de Cuba closes the cycle of this binge and we will have to wait four more years until Eusebio Leal surprises us with the apotheosis of Havana. We get the feeling that the residents of Santiago are going to go all out this July, and rightly so. Santiago is one of the most beautiful cities in Cuba and everyone who visits it delights in the truly unique personality it possesses, defined by its gorgeous physical setting—situated on several terraces, bordered by the Caribbean and backed by the highest mountains on the Island—the warmth of its extroverted and courteous inhabitants, and the manifestations of popular culture that have generally managed to maintain their original nature, oblivious to any deformations that could be imposed by the market. Founded in 1515 by Governor Diego Velázquez— because of the name it received, it is presumed that the date was July 25, the feast day of St. James the Apostle (Santiago in Spanish)—the town rapidly assumed the mantle of capital of Cuba. In 1522, it received the denomination of city but because of the greater importance of Havana, largely given its proximity to Veracruz in Mexico, being the gateway to the New World, and the discovery of the Gulf Stream that made traffic between the Americas and Europe easier, Santiago lost its position as capital to the city of Havana in the mid-sixteenth century. With alternating periods of prosperity, invigorated by the exploitation of the gold and copper mines, contraband and the arrival of French fugitives from Haiti who at the start of the nineteenth century impetuously began developing coffee plantations, the region made it into the middle of that century cuba’s digital destination contents PAGE 7 in rather unsustainable conditions because of the downfall of the coffee and sugar barons. This is one of the reasons why the inhabitants of Santiago became famous for considerably filling the ranks of independence fighters, like Antonio Maceo, Flor Crombet, Guillermo Moncada (Guillermón) and Quintín Bandera. Santiago was also notably present in the insurrectional struggle which began in 1953 against the dictatorship of Fulgencio Batista. For all its contributions to these glorious enterprises, in 1983 the city received the official distinction of being called Hero of the Republic of Cuba, the only city to receive the title until the present day. The poet Waldo Leyva, born in Villa Clara but a son of Santiago deep in his heart, would declare in one of his verses: “Si encuentras alguna piedra / que no haya sido lanzada contra el enemigo / si descubres una calle por donde no haya pasado / nunca un héroe / […] / puedes decir entonces que Santiago no existe” [Should you ever find some stone that has never been hurled against the enemy, should you ever find any street over which no hero has walked…then and only then can you say that Santiago does not exist]. Whoever decides to join Santiagueros in the celebration of the 500 years of the existence of the city will encounter a renewed town that has worked long and hard to erase the devastating effect of Hurricane Sandy that hit Cuba, particularly Santiago, three years ago. They will also proudly exhibit the founding areas around Cáspedes Park (formerly, Plaza de Armas), flanked by Diego Velázquez’ old headquarters, which is one of the most ancient buildings of its kind in the Americas; the cathedral, which was built and then rebuilt to replace the original that collapsed in an earthquake, and which acquired its Neo-Renaissance appearance around the year 1922; the former city hall, today the Palacio de Gobierno Municipal, built in the 1950s according to Neoclassical precepts; the eclectic Casa Granda Hotel; and the bank, which is typical of the Modern Movement in architecture. This coexistence of styles is a distinctive feature of a city that is proud of its splendid fortress San Pedro de la Roca Castle and the Archeological Landscape of the First Coffee Plantations in the South-East of Cuba, both declared UNESCO World Heritage Sites; of the sloping and crowded streets; of the cemetery where the remains of José Martí, Apostle of the Independence of Cuba, and Carlos Manuel de Céspedes, Cuba’s Founding Father, repose; of the modern Heredia Theatre; of the former Moncada Barracks that were attacked by Fidel Castro and a group of young patriots and which now house a school complex named Ciudad Escolar 26 de Julio; of the Bacardi Museum, the Casa de la Trova, the Alameda…and, especially, the cuba’s digital destination contents PAGE 8 Santuario de Nuestra Señora de la Caridad del Cobre (The Basilica of Our Lady of Charity of El Cobre), dedicated to the Patroness of Cuba, at the nearby town of El Cobre and a required pilgrimage site. Santiago is dubbed “la tierra caliente” [the hot land], but don’t be worried. Your body quickly gets used to the heat as you wander the streets. And you can always be refreshed by the wares of the lemonadevendors with their juices and other drinks, or stop by the several ice cream parlors. Santiagueros have their own formula: first drink a glass of rum, listen to the cry of the Chinese cornet and then gently and rhythmically move those feet as you join any one of a number of congas that start “rolling” through the streets for no reason whatsoever, at any time of the day or night. It is an excellent formula for celebrating the 500th birthday of this kid that refuses to get old. cuba’s digital destination contents PAGE 9 Santiago de Cuba: 500 years of history by Ricardo Alberto Pérez Somebody once asked me how I would define Santiago de Cuba. Not wanting to answer with a glib phrase, I examined my own personal experience with the city and ended up saying: “It’s a city that’s hard to conquer.” Later on I thought that my words were rather contradictory because I have always found Santiago to be incredibly friendly. Nonetheless, it appears that subconsciously I was referring to two specific matters: the first is associated with its geography, the high temperatures, the scorching sun that seems to mercilessly penetrate deeper than the layers of skin. The second reason was always a premonition that on any of the many visits I had made I would begin to discover, and which is connected to a more private and secretive city that is hidden behind the one we can perceive with our eyes. I am certainly convinced though that Santiago de Cuba has a unique soul that has been created by and has grown up under the influence of an accumulation of memories and this immediately infects all who come into contact with the city. It is July 2015 and Santiago de Cuba is getting ready to celebrate five hundred years since it was founded. The founders were headed by Diego Velazquez but many other actors participated in this event, such as Hernán Cortés, Bartolomé de las Casas, Antón de Alaminos and Bernal Díaz del Castillo, all of whom played an important role in the conquest of the entire American continent. Besides being Cuba’s first capital, for a long time Santiago also represented the departure point for other places in the Caribbean and on the American continent, transforming itself into the base for fresh conquests. As a child I used to hear (and I think this is true) that things happen in Santiago in a completely different way than in Havana. In the street, people come up to you as if they knew you all your life. Strangers talk to each other in a manner that is quite uncommon in other parts of Cuba. When I was only about eight or nine years old, my parents decided to fulfill a vow to the Nuestra Señora de la Caridad del Cobre Sanctuary a few kilometers away from Santiago. Just my luck, it was Carnival time. My parents took me to see a festivity that was unlike any other I had known in Havana. The experience was so powerful and genuine that the images recorded in my brain have never been erased despite all the years that have gone by since then. It’s as if the city is seasoned with too much pepper: nothing can extinguish that intensity and fire. cuba’s digital destination contents PAGE 10 That night full of happy delights was the first time I had seen a conga. Its rhythms seep into your very marrow and it affects the most impermeable of individuals. I identify this as my first contact with the profound city in whose veins many of our most beautiful forms of expression have been synthesized and from whence they erupt. When you talk about the Santiago congas, you are talking about a culminating moment in Cuban identity, a point where the feelings of a people are laid out naked and transparent like nowhere else. In this Heroic City (as is is also known given its active involvement in Cuban independence wars) congas are born in the neighborhoods and they spread everywhere with the breath of their inhabitants.. This scenario, which I, like many other Cubans and foreigners, have learned to recognize as an essential place, has become what it is today from processes—often painful and even violent— contained in these five centuries that are soon going to be the object of celebrations. The people of Santiago are the product of mestizaje or interbreeding, derived from diverse origins including the native peoples who were almost wiped out by the Conquistadors, the Spanish colonizers, and the African slaves, members of the Lucumi, Congo, Mino, Carabali, Mandinga and other ethnic groups. Surrounded by this exuberant nature where the Sierra Maestra Mountains form a striking background, different cultures, ethnic groups and religions have come together. And so the people, their culture, their customs and habits, their architecture have come to be formed. Santiago de Cuba with its Morro Fortress, its splendid bay, Enramadas and Padre Pico Streets, the Casa de la Trova, Cuba’s first cathedral, Céspedes Park and so many other emblematic sites, and especially with the capacity its people have for welcoming all visitors, is getting ready to commemorate five centuries of existence. cuba’s digital destination contents PAGE 11 Baseball in Santiago de Cuba by Victoria Alcalá A friend from Brazil said to me once, “Cubans can’t stand more than sixty seconds without talking about baseball,” to which I replied, “and you Brazilians can’t stand more than thirty seconds without talking about soccer.” However, I do have to admit that baseball is in the blood of most Cubans. We become involved with the game at a very young age—almost as soon as we are able to take our first steps—and it ends up being an essential part of our lives. This is why all Cuban cities and provinces dream of having a great baseball team and therefore put a lot of effort into this. And Santiago de Cuba and its people have numerous reasons to be proud of theirs. Historically, they are the third most-winning team in the National Series with eight championships to their name. In this Caribbean island, there’s no rivalry between two baseball teams that is more intense than the one between the Santiago de Cuba Avispas (Wasps) and the Havana Industriales, to the point that the games between the two teams have been labeled “The Classic of Cuban Baseball.” When these two teams face each other, both are willing to sweat blood not to give the other the satisfaction of winning. It’s a matter of honor. The games are intense with managers questioning umpires’ calls, players being aggressive, feelings running high…. And all these things come together to make up a great show that pleases the fans of both teams. For years, baseball peñas (fan clubs) have been proliferating both in Havana and Santiago de Cuba. Their most heated arguments are generally engaged into by supporters of the Industriales and the Avispas. And as it turns out, the wasp, known for its painful sting, was chosen as the Santiago team mascot by the people of the Hero City—as Santiago de Cuba is also referred to. This has led to a love-hate relationship in which all fans support their idols while acknowledging the quality of their opponents. Now, to be able to understand what baseball means for the people of Santiago de Cuba, the best thing you can do is talk to them. Whether young or old, they will diligently search their memories and recall numerous feats achieved by Santiaguero baseball players through history. Pitcher Manuel Alarcón, one of Cuba’s great baseball heroes, is remembered fondly by many and is usually at the top of their list. A few years ago, he was scheduled to face the Industriales in a game for the National Championship and, before the game had even started, he told the people of Santiago to get ready to celebrate their victory. And he was true to his promise. It is an honor to speak about these undaunted players, a constellation of stars that include another pitcher, Braudilio Vinent, whom I had the privilege of meeting at the Latinoamericano Park back when I was a teenager. Vinent is considered cuba’s digital destination contents PAGE 12 by many the best pitcher in post-1959 baseball. His numbers were as astonishing as his fastball, which gained him the nickname of “The Meteorite from La Maya.” Supporting their team whether they’re playing at home, at the Guillermón Moncada Park, or in another province, the people of Santiago de Cuba will never forget the roster that shined in the 1990s. With names such as Orestes Kindelán (cleanup hitter for both the Santiago and the Cuba teams, holding the record for more homeruns in the National Series), second baseman Antonio Pacheco (usually referred to as a Captain’s Captain, holding the record for most hits in the National Series) and third baseman and slugger Gabriel Pierre, they came to be known as The Steamroller, instilling fear in the hearts of their opponents. It is true that today—due to a number of reasons—the Santiago de Cuba Avispas are not what they used to be, but we have to acknowledge that they have not lost an ounce of their characteristic enthusiasm and fighting spirit. Today’s roster includes names such as veteran Reutilio Hurtado, who stands out thanks to his discipline and perseverance; pitcher Alberto Bicet; the young and talented Luis Yander La O; and outfielder Alexei Bell, the last two part of the Cuba Team roster. And yes, an Industriales-vs-Avispas final is quite a show, but it pales beside the victory celebration that takes place after the ninth inning when Santiago de Cuba has managed to nail down the win. Santiagueros from all ages gather in central areas of Santiago de Cuba to share the joy of being champions and honor their heroes as the team members parade around the city in the back of a truck accompanied by musicians. Parties here are intense and are usually longer than in any other part of Cuba. cuba’s digital destination contents PAGE 13 July 21-29, 2015 Santiago de Cuba Carnaval de Santiago de Cuba The origins of the Santiago Carnival go back to the end of the seventeenth century when processions would wind their way through the city streets celebrating the feast day of Santiago (St. James in English), the Patron Saint of the city. During the colonial period, the Spanish authorities granted permission to the black slaves to have their festivities on the Epiphany, putting on their typical music and dances. At the end of the nineteenth century the festivities were extended to the months of June and July in order to celebrate the patron saint days for St. John (June 24), St. Christina (July 24), St. James (July 25), St. Anne (July 26) and St. Peter (June 29). At the beginning of the twentieth century, parading comparsas would represent the different neighborhoods; this tradition is still alive, just like the dances held in the main areas of the city. The carnivals have always given the people of Santiago a means to release tension, to put aside their worries and dance to the rhythm of conga music. This year, like every year, locals and visitors will keep up the tradition and pour onto the streets in what is considered the most colorful carnival in Cuba. This is one of the most important cultural events in the city: many of its participants spend the whole year preparing their routines for the event. And don’t worry, it’s a family event. The photo by Alex Mene entire family will either participate in the parade or at least help make costumes or embellish floats. One way or another, everyone will do their bit. Carnival highlights include comparsas (neighborhood dance groups whose choreographies are generally related to Caribbean traditions and the daily life of the people of Santiago) and the processions of decorated floats that will parade, as usual, mainly down Avenida Garzón, where a jury will choose the best. The conga lines are perhaps the most popular element of the carnival, but they are meant to join, not watch. Right at the end of the procession, mamarrachos (characters in flamboyant, colorful costumes), muñecones (huge papier mache figures) and enmascarados (men and women wearing elaborate masks), accompanied by parranderos who with their drums, congas, rattles, catchy choruses and cornetas chinas liven up the event—if that is even possible. Inserted into carnivals as early as 1916, the corneta china, or Chinese horn, was introduced in Cuba by Chinese immigrants, adding another layer to the festivities. In recent years, the festivity has extended to other open areas in the city where live music with son, salsa, merengue as well as rock, pop, and disco cuba’s digital destination contents PAGE 14 will be played by the most popular bands of the moment. Free of all commercialization, the Santiago Carnival is truly an opportunity to celebrate this nation’s unique history and culture in a riot of rhythms, drumming and color. Although many Cuban towns hold their own carnivals, none attracts the crowds of the Santiago Carnival, so don’t miss out as the whole city moves to the rhythm of conga lines, the sound of the corneta china, drums, congas and French drums as well as pots and pans turned into unconventional percussion instruments, which lead dancing crowds down the steep roads of Santiago de Cuba. cuba’s digital destination contents PAGE 15 photo by Alex Mene July 26: Anniversary of the attack on Moncada Barracks by Victoria Alcalá On July 26, 1953, a group of young men and two women led by Fidel Castro attacked the Moncada Barracks in Santiago de Cuba while another group attacked the Carlos Manuel de Céspedes Barracks in the city of Bayamo. Although this was a defeat for the revolutionaries, this event paved the way for the insurrection against Batista. It was “the small engine that ignited the big engine of the Revolution.” How many countries commemorate a military defeat as their national holiday? Cuba does. In fact, it celebrates the ill-fated events that took place on July 26, 1953 with three days off. The events began one year earlier in May 1952 when a group of young people grouped around Abel and Haydee Santamaría, Melba Hernández and Fidel Castro began meeting in an apartment building in Havana to discuss their discontent with the disruption of the constitutional order imposed by the military coup launched by the dictator Fulgencio Batista. All legal channels exhausted, plans were made to start the armed struggle and fight the de facto government. Working with people across the country, they began to obtain uniforms, guns and ammunition to attack the Moncada Barracks and other strategic targets. cuba’s digital destination contents PAGE 16 A year later, those who were to participate in the assault traveled to Santiago de Cuba, which was celebrating its traditional summer carnival. The date was chosen so that the authorities would not suspect the young people who by train, bus and 17 cars were coming into the city with the apparent purpose of enjoying themselves during the festivities. The leaders of the attack were hoping that the relaxed atmosphere, the distance from the capital, the surprise factor, and the nearby mountains of the Sierra Maestra would help them achieve their goal. Upon their arrival in Santiago, the revolutionaries gathered together at the small Siboney farm located near the city. During early morning, the guns hidden inside a well were distributed. Then, the details of the attack, which had been kept in the utmost secrecy by the leaders, were given— they were going to attack the Moncada and Carlos Manuel de Céspedes Barracks and take over two strategic places, the Saturnino Lora Hospital and the Palace of Justice. The objectives: to disarm the enemy and summon the people to take armed revolutionary action that would lead to the overthrow of Batista. At 4:00 am on Sunday, July 26, 129 men and two women left the Siboney farm. The plan was to have the main body of the inexperienced troops (around 90 men) led by Fidel Castro advance to the army facility; the two women (Melba Hernández and Haydee Santamaría) and other fighters led by Abel Santamaría would take over the hospital; and the group of around 35 men led by Raul Castro would seize the Palace of Justice. The last two groups were able to achieve their goal, but the group led by Fidel lost the element of surprise—after reaching one of the posts, an unexpected patrol that was doing the rounds because of the carnival came across them. The guards alerted the troops and a battle ensued outside the garrison. Given the disadvantage of the assailants, many were captured alive and killed. The group that tried to gain the foothills of the Sierra Maestra was captured several days later. The assailants and Fidel Castro were held for trial. Fidel Castro assumed his own defense and he gave a four-hour speech on October 16 that was published under the title “History Will Absolve Me,” which was his concluding sentence. Although cuba’s digital destination contents PAGE 17 sentenced to terms of up to 15 years, many of the survivors relocated to Mexico after having been granted an amnesty and released from prison in 1955. In Mexico, they continued their plans to form a disciplined guerrilla force to overthrow the dictator Batista and returned to Cuba on the Granma yacht in December 1956 to begin the guerrilla struggle that culminated in the victory of 1959. Since 1959, Cuba has commemorated July 26 with rallies and speeches. In 1976, July 25, 26 and 27 were made holidays. As a verse of a song by a popular Cuban band says, “The 26th is the happiest day in history.” About the Cuartel Moncada The first barracks on this site were built by the Spanish in 1859. Originally named Nuevo Presidio, it served as the prison for the Department of Santiago de Cuba. Shortly after, a larger barracks was built and named Reina Mercedes after Queen Mercedes, wife of Alfonso XII. The military construction changed its name to Cuartel Moncada (after Guillermón Moncada, a hero of the War of Independence) in February, 1909. An unexplained fire on December 11, 1937, destroyed the old barracks and the House of Representatives extended a credit for 100,000 pesos for its reconstruction. After the triumph of the Revolution, on January 28, 1960, anniversary of the birth of Cuba’s National Hero, José Martí, the barracks was converted into a school and called Ciudad Escolar 26 de Julio. One of the buildings was turned into the Museo Histórico 26 de Julio, which tells the history of Cuba from the Spanish conquest to the present, on July, 1967. cuba’s digital destination contents PAGE 18 Santiago de Cuba AND ITS FIESTA DEL FUEGO by Ricardo Alberto Pérez The Cuban city that best reminds us of how we are not just Latin Americans but also Caribbean peoples is Santiago de Cuba. This is where vigor and bright colors permeate the atmosphere, tinting everything from the natural beauty right to the inhabitants’ customs. The city has its own unique pace. It is inhabited by unique sounds. There is no better time to enjoy all this than the annual summer Caribbean Festival called Fiesta del Fuego, an extraordinary mixture of cultures, beliefs and traditions that aims at harmonizing the identities of the peoples of the region beyond geographic and linguistic diversity. of the euphoria that flooded the city and infected everyone there. It is a tradition that the Festival del Caribe begins with the Desfile de la Serpiente, or the Serpent Parade. Both locals and visitors seem to enter into a kind of collective trance as they move at conga pace from Plaza de Marte to Parque Céspedes, displaying the spiritual richness of the men and women of the Caribbean, in a colorful display of contagious rhythm. The man who inspired this festival (which will be celebrating its 35 edition in 2015) and is in charge of running it is the prestigious Santiaguero intellectual Joel James. As the head of the Casa del Caribe, James has devoted a great part of his time and energy to each new edition of the festival so that it will sparkle with the magic provided by visitors and the fervor of the hosts. At each event, the Festival del Caribe has become more overwhelming with a variety of creative manifestations taking over center stage and interacting with each other. Dance groups, for example, that owe a lot to profound religious processes, bear the signs that they have not yet been sullied over the years and they bring a tremendous load of energy and authenticity to the event. Peasant folklore also joins this popular cultural exhibition. Some years back I had the honor of being a guest at the celebration. Six intense days that practically left no time for sleep due to the huge number of events going on and especially because One of the ceremonies that is most enjoyed at this convocation of Caribbean peoples is the Homenaje al Cimarrón [Homage to the Runaway Slaves]. It acknowledges the slave rebellion that took place cuba’s digital destination contents PAGE 19 in the town of El Cobre. The monument to el Cimarrón, work of the Santiago sculptor Alberto Lescay, is near the Basilica of Our lady of Charity; at this site, a ceremony takes place that pays tribute to the spiritual transcendence of those African slaves who defended their identity under the most terrible circumstances of oppression, mistreatment and death. The “El Caribe que nos une” International Colloquium (The Caribbean Sea that Unites Us All) focuses on issues related to the preservation, development and dissemination of Caribbean cultural diversity, as well as actions that can contribute to the unity of the region and promote a cultural exchange with the rest of America and the world. The Quema del Diablo (The Burning of the Demon) marks the end of the festival when all of its participants head to the seaside and there burn the Great Demon, which symbolizes all bad things. After it is burned, it is believed that the way is paved for next year’s meeting. cuba’s digital destination contents PAGE 20 Parque Céspedes heart and soul of Santiago de Cuba by Lucía Lamadrid cuba’s digital destination contents PAGE 21 When the town of Santiago de Cuba was founded on July 25, 1515, a small area of land was left empty following the regulations of the Spanish Crown on building cities in the New World. This empty lot was surrounded by rudimentary buildings that held the Town Hall, the Governor’s House, the church and the homes of the city’s principal Spanish families. Soon, the empty lot became Plaza de la Catedral, and since its founding in the 16th century, it was successively called Plaza de Armas, Plaza Mayor, Plaza Principal, Plaza de la Constitución, Plaza de la Reina and Plaza de Isabel II. The square received its present name, Plaza Carlos Manuel de Céspedes (although it is most commonly known as Parque Céspedes) in the early 20th century and the bronze bust of Carlos Manuel de Céspedes, the Father of the Nation, was placed in 1953. Throughout time, it has been the most important political, religious, administrative and social site in the city. One of Santiago de Cuba’s most important and long-standing traditions takes place here. The Fiesta de la Bandera, or Festivity of the Flag, held on December 31, is a one-of-a-kind festivity in Cuba and the world, for that matter. The flag is raised and the way it flies in the wind is said to forebode the fate of the people of Santiago for the coming year. The face of the picturesque plaza has changed many times, whether by the hand of pirates, governors or the forces of nature, but it continues to be the major gathering spot for Santiagueros and non-Santiagueros alike, any time, night or day. Limited by Aguilera, San Pedro, Heredia and Santo Tomás Streets, the plaza is surrounded by emblematic buildings, such as the Town Hall, the Home of Diego Velázquez, the Cathedral, the former San Carlos Club and the Casa Granda Hotel—a treasure trove of Colonial, Eclectic, Rationalist, Neoclassical and Modern architecture. The Ayuntamiento, or Town Hall, on the northern side of the square, was originally built in 1516 and occupied by the Spanish Conquistador Hernán Cortés. It was partly destroyed by an earthquake and reconstructed successively. The present neoclassical building was built in the 1950s based on a design from 1783. It was from its central balcony that Fidel Castro addressed the people of Santiago on January 1, 1959. It was his first speech following Batista’s flight from Cuba. On the west side of the park is the 16th-century Casa de Diego Velázquez, today the Museo de Ambiente Histórico Colonial Cubano. Built in 1515 for Cuba’s first governor, this is the oldest house still standing in Cuba and arguably the oldest in Latin America. photos by Ana Lorena cuba’s digital destination contents PAGE 22 The top floor was the living quarters while the ground floor served as a trading house and gold foundry. The Andalusian-style façade with fine, wooden lattice windows and a wonderfully carved cedar ceiling was extensively restored in the 1960s after a fire. The museum depicts the varied styles and eras of colonial life seen through furnishings and decorations from the 16th to 19th centuries. Some splendid pieces of French, British, Spanish and Cuban furniture; Spanish ceramics, carved chests and French porcelain, as well as dressers with inlaid designs are on display. The former San Carlos Club on the square’s eastern side is considered the most important exponent of eclectic architecture in Santiago. Built from 1908-1912, it has been home to several institutions, becoming the Municipal Culture House and the Esteban Salas Concert Hall in the 1980s. Today, it is undergoing extensive restoration and will become home to the Decorative Arts Museum and the Cuban Fund of Cultural Property in July 2015. The Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción was destroyed by fire only a few years after its construction in 1524. The buildings that replaced the original church were later subjected to all types of calamities from pirate attacks to hurricanes and earthquakes. The Cathedral of Santiago de Cuba holds the record for being the building that has been reconstructed and remodeled the most in the city. The fourth building was consecrated in 1813 and was given the title of Minor Basilica and declared National Monument in 1958. The church you see today combines the surviving 19thcentury features with changes made in the 1920s. Meticulously restored, the interior is a magnificent mixture of intricate ceiling frescoes, hand-carved choir stalls and an altar honoring the venerated Virgen de la Caridad. It is believed that the first colonial governor, Diego Velázquez, was buried here although his remains have never been found. The Casa Granda Hotel is one of Santiago’s most notable buildings and was described by Graham Greene, who used to stay here in the late 1950s, in his book Our Man in Havana. The Cuban Railroad Company commissioned the design of this lavish Eclectic building to architect Carlos Segrera and it took the Cuban construction company Amigos & Hermanos only six months to finish the hotel, which was officially inaugurated on January 10, 1914. The Casa Granda Hotel has four floors with majestic, although sober Eclectic façades. The vanes and balustrade decorations on the second and third floors are perfectly symmetrical, while the fourth floor has a larger number of ornamental elements, with windows that feature semicircular arches. The Roof Garden on the fifth floor offers a stunning view of the city. The hotel was completely refurbished between 1993 and 1995, and is today part of Santiago’s cultural and historical heritage. cuba’s digital destination contents PAGE 23 EL COBRE The Sanctuary at by Ricardo Alberto Pérez photo by Alex Mene cuba’s digital destination contents PAGE 24 Photos by Ana Lorena One of the factors that undoubtedly has enabled us Cubans to overcome ordeals and difficult periods in our national history is the relationship we have built with faith. Beliefs sometimes seem to define much of our nature and often surpass the field of religion to become a strong cultural mark. In this regard, it would be impossible not to mention and place in the center of Cuban life the Virgen de la Caridad del Cobre—Our lady of Charity. The Catholic Church is well aware that while some people venerate the Marian image of Our Lady of Charity, others worship Oshun, the Orisha of love and money, the river Goddess, while still others manage to worship both the Christian virgin and the goddess of the Yoruba religion syncretized in one. The patroness of Cuba has been present for over four centuries in the individual and collective destinies of countless generations of Cubans who have venerated her in the most picturesque ways imaginable. The story itself of how the image that is now venerated at the shrine of El Cobre in Santiago de Cuba has helped reinforce the combination of mysticism with myth: Legend has it that in 1613 a statue of the Virgin was discovered by three fishermen who had gone out to the Bay of Nipe for salt. They got caught up in a violent storm and thought they were about to die when they spotted a figurine. When they retrieved it from the water, they were surprise to see that it was completely dry. The small image, which was carved in wood, carried the Baby Jesus in her arms and was fastened to a small board that read: “I am the Virgin of Charity.” cuba’s digital destination contents PAGE 25 Whatever its origin, it is clear that this was not a cult imposed by any authority. By the beginning of the 19th century, the Virgin of Charity prevailed over all of the other images brought by the Spanish. Evenduring the wars of independence of the second half of the 19th century, the “mambises,” the Cuban guerrillas, carried with them the image of the Virgin of Charity in every battle. In 1915, the veterans of the wars of independence wrote to Pope Benedict XV asking the Virgin to be declared the Patron Saint of Cuba and in 1916, the Supreme Pontiff declared September 8 the Feast Day of the Virgin of Charity and Patron Saint of Cuba. The image was initially deposited at the Bajaragua Ranch, then at Real de Minas, near Santiago de Cuba, and finally, in 1648, in a chapel that was built in the same place where the Sanctuary rises today, and which opened on September 8, 1927 after the first sanctuary collapsed in 1906. Access to the Sanctuary is through an outside staircase flanked by a wall with lamps. The statute of the Virgin is made of gold and can be seen from anywhere in the main nave. The movable altar is made of marble and solid silver, and is decorated with items of great value. Downstairs from the chapel where the Virgin is kept is the Capilla de los Milagros (literally, Chapel of Miracles), a small room that holds from the humblest of offerings to precious jewels and votive offerings of gold and precious stones; from sports trophies to military decorations, including the Nobel Prize medal for Literature awarded to Ernest Hemingway, who personally placed it at the feet of the Patron Saint of Cuba. cuba’s digital destination contents PAGE 26 Photo by Ana Lorena Castillo San Pedro de la Roca The Castillo San Pedro de la Roca, or Castillo del Morro Fortress, is located on a promontory at the entrance of the bay of the city of Santiago de Cuba. Its strategic location made it the principal defense position of the city against pirate attacks, which had previously and successfully plundered the city back in 1554. Designed by Italian military engineer Giovanni Battista Antonelli (also known as Juan Battista Antonelli, who also designed La Punta and El Morro forts in Havana), construction works began in 1638 during the government of Pedro de la Roca, from whom the fortress gets its name. Construction works took 62 years to be completed due to financial constraints. Due to several earthquakes that occurred in Santiago between 1675 and 1692, the fortress, which was built intermittently, was damaged and reconstruction was carried out for two years. From 1738 to 1749, however, the citadel was enlarged and several platforms completed. The fortress was again damaged by earthquake activity between 1757 and 1766. After pirate activity diminished, part of the fortress was converted into a prison, while the rest remained serving as a military base. On July 3, 1898, the Castillo San Pedro de la Roca witnessed the Battle of Santiago de Cuba between the Spanish fleet commanded by Vice Admiral Pascual Cervera and an American fleet during the Spanish-Cuban- American War. This historical event ended the colonial rule of Spain in America. For years the fort was abandoned, until restoration works began in 1962 led by Dr. Francisco Prat Puig. The museum that was opened within the fortress on July 23, 1978 contains five exhibition halls: Pirate Activity in the Caribbean, Construction of the Fortress, the Development of the Defense System in Colonial Times, the Castillo del Morro as a Prison, and the Naval Battle of Santiago de Cuba. Its collection includes 16th- to 19th-century firearms and bladed weapons, pistols and artillery pieces, as well as other items of historical value. The fortress is considered a jewel of military architecture in the Caribbean and has two architectural styles: Medieval, seen in the thickness of the walls, the tightly sealed rooms, few openings and vaulted ceilings, among other features; and the Renaissance, visible mainly in the facade which is sunken and flattened, symmetrical stone blocks¸ the drawbridge and the dry moat. The latter has a frieze that is decorated in the Moorish style. The Castillo San Pedro de la Roca Fortress was declared a National Monument in early 1979, and in December 6 of that same year, it was listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. The reasons cited by the Commission during its 21st Session held in Naples, Italy, are that it is the best preserved and most complete example of Spanish-American military architecture. cuba’s digital destination contents PAGE 27 Casa de la Trova Heredia 206 -210 e/ San Félix y San Pedro, Santiago de Cuba Open 11am-3pm & 8:3011pm, Tue-Sun SANTIAGO DE CUBA’S CASA DE LA TROVA cuba’s digital destination contents PAGE 28 by Victoria Alcalá With a population of nearly half a million inhabitants, this city has one unique peculiarity. Its streets always allow you to see things from above or from below, depending on the point where you are standing, which will always be on a slope. Its bay is the impressive background that usually dominates the photos taken by visitors to the city, or it simply remains in their memories as a symbol of welcome. Spanish explorers Hernán Cortés— Santiago de Cuba’s first mayor—and Pánfilo de Narvaez both set sail from this bay to conquer new territories in Mexico. The town center is located between the Caribbean Sea and the Sierra Maestra Mountains, which makes for an exceptional sight. Santiago was Cuba’s first capital city from 1515 to 1556. Today it is recognized as Ciudad Héroe (Hero City) since its streets were once the setting of many actions of the country’s revolutionary struggles, from the independence wars of the 19th century to the more recent Revolution under Fidel Castro, which began with the assault on the Moncada Barracks on July 26, 1953. Many important cultural processes have developed in Santiago de Cuba, having contributed significantly to the formation of the Cuban national identity. This is a city where events take on a spontaneous and original character unlike any other region in the island. The musical genres of son, traditional trova and bolero, plus other rhythms peppered with Afro and Haitian influences that have enriched the Cuban musical scene, were born here. Its colorful carnival, with comparsas (neighborhood dance groups), conga lines and decorated floats parading down the streets, is proof that Santiago is one of the liveliest cities in Cuba. Although many people sit in the grandstand or booths to watch the parade, most follow behind the congas dancing to the rhythm of the Chinese cornet and the órgano oriental, trademarks of Santiago’s carnival festivities. Walking down Heredia St, you come across the Casa de la Trova. The townhouse marked with No. 208, which boasts balconies reminiscent of the New Orleans French Quarter, was the former home of Rafael Pascual Salcedo de las Cuevas, eminent musician born on October 23, 1844. . Today, Casa de la Trova is the town’s principal music venue, with performances all day and night long paying tribute to the countless musicians— like Sindo Garay, Miguelito Cuní, Compay Segundo, María Teresa Vera, Matamoros Trio, and many cuba’s digital destination contents PAGE 29 others—who nurtured the soul of the city. Perhaps the most outstanding figure of all is Pepe Sánchez, born in 1856, who is considered the founder of this musical vein and the composer who wrote the first bolero titled Tristeza. Old and young trovadores strum their guitars sharing their joys and sorrows converted into memorable songs at the internationally known Casa de la Trova in Santiago de Cuba. So much so, that on January 14, 2000, Sir Paul McCartney made an unexpected visit to this temple of Cuban traditional music. cuba’s digital destination contents PAGE 30 José Antonio Choy: an architect of Santiago and Cuba by Victoria Alcalá Rescued from the anonymity that plagues contemporary Cuban architects, the name of Santiago-born José Antonio Choy shines like a beacon. Along with his wife and colleague Julia León he has been responsible for some of the most respected building in recent decades in Cuba. After graduating from the School of Architecture in Havana, Choy returned to his hometown of Santiago to undertake some important projects, among them the executive flights terminal (1987) and the railroad station (1989), the latter finalist work in the first Mies van der Rohe Award for Latin America. In both buildings, he established a subtle dialogue with their milieu without falling into the facile temptation of succumbing to the “Neo-styles.” He also worked as urban planner and architect for the city’s Plaza de la Revolución together with sculptors Alberto Lescay and Guarionex Ferrer, but there is no doubt that the principal achievement of the Choy-León partnership is the Meliá Santiago de Cuba Hotel (1991). Although at first quite a few Santiagueros rejected the new 19-floor building, maybe because they were expecting something more traditional or more in tune with the supposed glamour they were used to seeing in films and magazines, the nickname they gave the hotel, “the mill,” unwittingly put the spotlight on one of its merits: interpreting the traditional codes of industrial and vernacular architecture in the region from a contemporary point of view. With the passing of time, the Meliá Santiago became something like the Eiffel Tower, which, received at first with reservations and even open rejection, finally became the symbol of Paris. Today the hotel designed by Choy and León is an essential point of reference in the city, just like the Morro Castle or Céspedes Park. Many tourists look to it so that they can orient themselves and find their bearings. Another remarkable project was the Che Guevara Studies Center in Nuevo Vedado: “We bypassed other routes that led to an exaggeration of architectural forms. We tried to make this a clean, serene building, sparsely using expressive elements. Some have categorized this as a minimalist work but we believe that we have provided a highly personal interpretation of the person and philosophy of Che.” The annex building to the Parque Central Hotel (2006) is another striking project, which they respectfully and boldly resolved the complicated insertion of a building, which although not blending with the other structures, was not stridently modernistic, into a traditional Old Havana block cuba’s digital destination contents PAGE 31 Anexo Hotel Parque Central Choy-León still have a number of dreams to fulfill such as the future library for the Casa de las Américas, winner of the institution’s competition in 2001, and a hotel to be built on the desolate corner of Prado and Malecón—which plays with the meaningful proximity of the sea in its translucent and curved façade—included in Backstage Architecture 2012, which gathered the 57 most important projects of the year worldwide to be presented at the 13th Venice Biennale of Architectural. Proyecto Hotel Prado y Malecón Banco Financiero Internacional As if all that were not enough, Choy, who chairs the City, Architecture and Heritage Commission of the Writers’ and Artists’ Union of Cuba (UNEAC), is a scholar in his field, a tireless promoter of architecture as the cultural expression of a specific time and place. He he has defended the importance that the criteria of professional architects should have before decision makers in a variety of public forums. Respected by his contemporaries and considered a paradigm by the younger generations of architects, not only for his talent but for his uprightness and courage, the greatest legacy José Antonio Choy leaves Cuban culture may very well be the act of teaching by example, thanks to which he has stopped being the “lone avant-gardist” as his colleague Roberto Segre once described him. VISUAL ARTS Casa de Asia OPENS JULY 7 Asia en la plástica cubana contemporánea is made up by works based on customs, traditions and the ethnographic universe of Asian countries. Casa Juan Gualberto Gómez OPENS JULY 8 Palante en verano, a show of works by caricaturists from and contributors to the comic newspaper Palante showcasing personal caricatures, white, black, erotic humor and political satire, among others, reflecting national and international events. Edificio de Arte Cubano. Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes THROUGH SEPTEMBER 28 THROUGH AUGUST 16 Ruidos salvajes show with over 90 pieces (from 1960-2015) from the permanent collection of The Bronx Museum, which focus on identity, city life and community. THROUGH SEPTEMBER 6 Los ardientes, by Sergio Hernández, one of the most important visual artists in Mexico, reveals his mastery of painting and the graphic arts, manifestations he shares with sculpture, printmaking, ceramics and drawing, and his taste for intense colors. Factoría Habana Pintura is the Tomás Sánchez show including 12 never-before shown canvases, mainly in large formats, where he combines natural landscapes with garbage dumps. This is a significant direction taken by this Cuban painter who has not had a show in 30 years at Bellas Artes. THROUGH AUGUST 24 Tramas, by Gustavo Pérez Monzón who showed at the historic Volumen I which marked a milestone in Cuban art of the 1980s, reveals 76 impressive drawings and installations. THROUGH AUGUST 31 El mapa del silencio, a show by the former Carpintero Alexandre Arrechea was especially planned for being shown at Bellas Artes; it includes two large format watercolors, video-projection, a wall-hanging and a mural measuring 25 meters on the wall of the gallery. Curator Corina Matamoros tells us that it states what hasn’t yet been said, even though it is obvious. THROUGH JULY 22 Edificio de Arte Universal. Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes Ping-pong cuadrícula, Wilfredo Prieto’s show has both large and small format works where the artista insists on using day-to-day objects in order to communicate new meanings. THROUGHOUT Entropía. JULY Rodríguez René Francisco exhibits imaginative artefacts built from set squares, or triangles. The Mission, by Rocío García, is a story made up by large paintings that give proof of the artist’s narrative ability and her mastery at creating environments and disturbing “characters.” Deconstrucción del horizonte, by Carlos Montes de Oca, includes fragments from old ICAIC Newsreels, which complement the installation. Galería Galiano THROUGH JULY 26 Espejismos. Artist Raúl Castro Camacho (Memo) invites viewers to discover the images that are hidden beneath his white paintings. Galería Habana OPENS JULY 10 Pintura fresca. Group show of works by Yunier Hernández, Niels Reyes, Agustín Hernández Carlos, Frank Martínez, Roldán Lauzán, Darwin Estacio, Antoine Mena and Palacio del Segundo Cabo THROUGH JULY 31 Naturalezas del Art Nouveau, traveling show sponsored by the Réseau Art Nouveau Network, in charge of documenting, researching and protecting Art Nouveau heritage worldwide. cuba’s digital destination contents PAGE 33 PHOTOGRAPHY Castillo de la Real Fuerza OPENS JULY 6 La última frontera. Placed on the railings of the old fortress, 50 large photographs discover the natural wonders hidden beneath the sea. Centro Cultural Bertolt Brecht THROUGH JULY 26 Expocuba. Pabellón de la Cultura Adolfo Izquierdo exhibits photos taken on the work carried pout by the Danza Contemporánea de Cuba company. THROUGH SEPTEMBER 1 Miradas reveladoras. An approach to different moments of the Cuban Revolution through the work carried out by a group of excellent photographers that captured those moments: Alberto Díaz Gutiérrez (Korda), Raúl Corrales, Osvaldo and Roberto Salas, Liborio Noval, Ernesto Fernández, José Agraz, Perfecto Romero and Luis Pierce. cuba’s digital destination contents PAGE 34 DANCE Photo Alex Mene Blancanieves y los siete enanitos Sala Avellaneda. Teatro Nacional July 4, 5pm Graduation gala of the vocational workshop of the Department of Dance of the National Ballet of Cuba, with choreography by Marlén Moreno and a group of teachers, of the famous story of Snow White, and music from the film’s soundtrack. The ballet will be performed by the students who will be graduating this year, dancers from the National Ballet of Cuba and the Elementary School of Ballet, and a selection of members of the Dance Department. Así Somos in concert Flamenco Centro Hispano-Americano de Cultura Teatro Mella July 18, 5pm July 24 & 25, 8:30pm; Jult 26, 5pm Show by the Así Somos dance company and guests. Flamenco dance show with the excellent Irene Rodríguez and Company. Verano flamenco Centro Hispano-Americano de Cultura July 28Augist 1, 1:30-4:30pm Spanish Dance Workshop for students 7 to 29 years old, conducted by the Irene Rodríguez Dance Company. Enrollment is now open by calling 7866 0775 / 7866 0776 Photo Y. del Monte cuba’s digital destination contents PAGE 35 MUSIC CONTEMPORARY FUSION Club Habana Party Photo Alex Mene The contemporary fusion and electronic music scene has expanded recently as new bars and clubs have opened party promoters have organized events in parks and public spaces. Good live music venues include Bertolt Brecht (Wed: Interactivo, Sunday: Déjá-vu) and El Sauce (check out the Sunday afternoon Máquina de la Melancolía) as well as the newly opened Fábrica de Arte Cubano which has concerts most nights Thursday through Sunday as well as impromptu smaller performances inside. In Havana’s burgeoning entertainment district along First Avenue from the Karl Marx theatre to the aquarium you are spoilt for choice with the always popular Don Cangreco featuring good live music (Kelvis Ochoas and David Torrens alternate Fridays), Las Piedras (insanely busy from 3am) and El Palio and Melem bar—both featuring different singers and acts in smaller more intimate venues. Barbaram Pepito’s Bar Club Turf SUNDAYS Discoteca Onda Retro 5 pm Le Select SUNDAYS WEDNESDAYS Qva Libre Los Ángeles 5 pm 5pm Submarino Amarillo Café Concert El Sauce 5 pm Djoy 8 pm Café Cantante, Teatro Nacional SUNDAYS JUEVES La Máquina de la Melancolía, with Frank Delgado and Luis Alberto García SATURDAYS 2 pm Vieja Escuela, country, blues & rock’n’roll Tercera y 8 Gato Tuerto SATURDAYS 10 pm MONDAYS Tenor Bernardo Lichilín and DJ Eddy Sánchez Baby Lores 11 pm Havana Hard Rock EVERY OTHER FRIDAY Soul Train, a show of soul music cuba’s digital destination contents PAGE 36 MUSIC CONCERT Johnny Ventura and Elaín Morales in concert Karl Marx Theater, July 10 & 11, 2015 8:00 pm Johnny Ventura, the famous Dominican singer and band leader of merengue music, will join forces with Cuban singer Elaín Morales in a concert at the Karl Marx Theater in Havana. A fan of Cuban music since he was small, Ventura will be visiting the island for the first time to take part in the 35th Caribbean Festival “Fiesta del Fuego” to be held in Santiago de Cuba from July 2-9, 2015. Grand concert to kick off the summer! Isaac Delgado and his band Tribuna Antimperialista On the Malecón Sunday, July 5, 9pm Don’t miss2-9, 2015. cuba’s digital destination contents PAGE 37 Photo by Alex Mene SALSA / TIMBA Casa de la Música Habana Casa de la Música de Miramar MONDAYS 11 pm Havana Show MONDAYS TUESDAYS 11 pm Havana Show WEDNESDAYS 11 pm Sur Caribe 11 pm Adalberto Álvarez y su Son WEDNESDAYS 11 pm NG La Banda THURSDAYS 5 pm Manolito Simonet FRIDAYS 5 pm El Niño y La Verdad 11 pm NG La Banda SUNDAYS 5 pm Bamboleo Piano Bar Tun Tun THURSDAYS 11 pm NG La Banda SATURDAYS 5 pm Manana Club Jardines del 1830 FRIDAYS 10 pm Le Select FRIDAYS 5 pm Grupo Moncada and their project Rueda de Casino THURSDAYS Tercera y 8 WEDNESDAYS Alain Daniel 11 pm Piano Bar Habaneciendo WEDNESDAYS Azúcar Negra 5 pm Osaín del Monte 11 pm Kye 2 Salón Rojo del Hotel Capri SUNDAYS AND SUNDAYS Juan Guillermo 11 pm cuba’s digital destination contents PAGE 38 MUSIC JAZZ Jazz Café Shows: 10:30pm - 2am Mellow, sophisticated and freezing due to extreme air conditioning, the Jazz Café is not only an excellent place to hear some of Cuba’s top jazz musicians, but the open-plan design also provides for a good bar atmosphere if you want to chat. Less intimate than La Zorra y el Cuervo – located opposite Melia Cohiba Hotel. Café Jazz Miramar Shows: 11 pm - 2am This new jazz club has quickly established itself as one of the very best places to hear some of Cuba’s best musicians jamming. Forget about smoke filled lounges, this is clean, bright—take the fags outside. While it is difficult to get the exact schedule and in any case expect a high level of improvisation when it is good it is very good. A full house is something of a mixed house since on occasion you will feel like holding up your own silence please sign! Nonetheless it gets the thumbs up from us. Asociación Cubana de Derechos de Autor Musical JUNE 18 6 pm Alexis Bosch (pianist) and Proyecto Jazz Cubano. Jardines del teatro Mella JUNE 30 5pm Zule Guerra (singer & composer) and Blues D´Havana UNEAC JUNE 11 5 pm Peña La Esquina del Jazz hosted by showman Bobby Carcassés. cuba’s digital destination contents PAGE 39 MUSIC BOLERO, FOLKLORE, SON & TROVA Asociación Yoruba de Cuba SUNDAYS El Jelengue de Areíto Los Ibellis (Folkloric group) 4 pm TUESDAYS Conjunto Chappottín 5 pm Elaín Morales WEDNESDAYS Trovando, a meeting with good 5pm SATURDAYS Son del Nene 5 pm Café Cantante, Teatro Nacional THURSDAYS MONDAYS Waldo Mendoza 5pm 5 pm trova. FRIDAYS Rumberos de Cuba 5 pm Café Concert El Sauce JUNE 2, 9, 16, 23, 30 Charly Salgado and guest 8 pm FRIDAYS Rafael Espín and guests 4 pm 6 pm FRIDAYS 4 pm Peña El Canto de Todos, with Vicente Feliú 5 pm SATURDAY 4 pm Casa de la Cultura Comunitaria Mirta Aguirre JULY 26 SATURDAYS Bolero Night Pabellón Cuba Eduardo Sosa 5 pm JULY 16 Hurón Azul, UNEAC 9 pm Casa del Alba JULY 3 Ivette Cepeda. 9:30 pm Café Teatro Bertolt Brecht JUNE 27 Hotel Telégrafo Get-together with trovador Ireno García. Peña Tres Tazas with trovador Silvio Alejandro Peña Participo with trovador Juan Carlos Pérez Barbaram Pepito’s Bar SATURDAYS Yaima Sáez 10pm Casa de la Cultura de Plaza JULY 11 Peña with Marta Campos. Fresa y Chocolate TUESDAYS 7 pm 5pm Trova hosted by Richard Luis and Eric Méndez Centro Cultural Habaneciendo SUNDAYS Filin with Fausto Durán and guests 3pm 5 pm Peña La Juntamenta, with trovador Ángel Quintero. Casa de la Música Habana SUNDAYS Fernando Becquer 10:30pm Centro Iberoamericano de la Décima Casa Memorial Salvador Allende JULY 24 THURSDAYS JULY 4 Duo Ad Libitum 3 pm JULY 26 5 pm El Jardín de la Gorda with trovadors from every generation. Yoruba Andabo 5 pm cuba’s digital destination contents PAGE 40 CLASSICAL MUSIC Photo Y. del Monte Basílica Menor de San Francisco de Asís JULY 4 6 pm JULY 11 6 pm JULY 18 AND 23 Concert with music by Wagner with the performance of soprano Johana Simón, who accompanied by the pianist Krank Paredes will sing Wesendonck-Lieder and arias from Lohengrin, Tannhäuser, Walkyria and Tristan and Isolde. Performance by the Lecuona trio (Lianne Vega on the piano, Alejandro Martínez on the cello and Alberto Rosas, flute and director). Concerts by the Camerata Romeu, conducted by Zenaida Romeu. 6/2 pm Teatro Martí SATURDAYS Concerts by chamber soloists and ensembles. 4 pm Casa del ALBA Cultural JULY 3 Concert by the Mariana de Gonitch Singing Academy. 5 pm JULY 5 Concert by the Nueva Camerata Wind Ensemble conducted by Haskell Armenteros. 5 pm cuba’s digital destination contents PAGE 41 Casa de las Américas JULY 2 7 pm JULY 3 6 pm JULY 17 7 pm Espacio Sonoro, dedicated to electroacoustic music by composers Juan Blanco (Cuba), Horacio Vaggione (Argentina), Alfredo del Mónaco (Venezuela), Antonio Russek (Mexico), Javier Álvarez (Mexico), Alejandro José (Dominican Republic) and Reginaldo Carvalho (Brazil). Percuba Ensemble, conducted by Damarik Favier, will perform contemporary works composed for this peculiar instrumental format. Performance by the Gay Men’s Chorus of Washington, D.C., one of the oldest LGTB choral organizations in the United States. Casa Victor Hugo JULY 11 Concert by guitarist Mabel González. 5 pm JULY 13 Musical gathering with guitarist Luis Manuel Molina and his Calis Duo. 4 pm Centro Hispano Americano de Cultura JULY 11 Concert by Nuestro Tiempo ensemble, conducted by Enrique Pérez Mesa. 5 pm Oratorio San Felipe Neri JULY 2 7 pm JULY 11 4 pm JULY 13-18 Performance by Javier Zalba (saxophone) and Alejandro Calzadilla (clarinet) along with the Orquesta de Cámara de La Habana, conducted by Daiana García. Concert Contemporáneos de Cuba y América, with first violist Anolan González, accompanied on the piano by Beatriz Batista and soprano Laura Ulloa, and guest string quintet, who will perform pieces composed especially for the Anolan González as well as classical compositions from the Latin American repertouire of composers Jorge López Marín, Roberto Valera, Alfredo Diez Nieto, Juan Piñera, Heitor Villa-Lobos, Alejandro Martínez, Guido López-Gavilán, Astor Piazzolla and Rafael Hernández. “Conociendo a Mozart” (Getting to Know Mozart), summer workshops for adolescents 10 am JULY 18 11 am Concert by the Ventus Habana wind quintet, accompanied by the Schola Cantorum Coralina chorus, conducted by Wilmia Verrier. Sala Covarrubias. Teatro Nacional JULY 25 8:30pm JULY 26 Concert Un palco en la Ópera: arias, duos, scenes and overtures from operas of all time, with Milagros de los Ángeles, Alioska Jiménez, Kirenia Corzo, Laura de Mare, Yilán Sartorio, Anisley Martínez, Dayana Lorente, Cristina Rodríguez, Dayami Pérez, Marcos Lima, Héctor Rodríguez, Ramón Centeno, Jorge Temprano and Lesby Bautista. 6 pm Sala Gonzalo Roig. Palacio del Teatro Lírico Nacional JULY 26 Cuerda Dominical, with guitarist Luis Manuel Molina. 5 pm cuba’s digital destination contents PAGE 42 CINEMA Organized by the Cuban Institute of Film Art and Industry (ICAIC) and the Cinematheque of Cuba, along with several other cultural institutions, the Chaplin Festival took off on July 1 with the presence of Oona Chaplin, granddaughter of Charles Chaplin. Besides the screening of short and feature films by Chaplin, the festival includes—for the first time in the American continent—an exhibition of objects and materials that belonged to the English comedian, from the collection of Paddy McDonald, one of the most important collectors on Chaplin memorabilia. The exhibition will occupy the galleries of the Charles Chaplin cinema, the ICAIC Cultural Center and the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes (Cuban Art Building). To close the festival, the National Symphony Orchestra will give a concert at the Sala Covarrubias of the Teatro Nacional on July 12, 5pm. The program includes This Is My Song and Smile by Chaplin, along with works by his favorite composers, including Leonard Bernstein. PROGRAM THU, JULY 2 5PM: (Shorts) Behind the Screen, 1916, The Floorwalker, 1917, The Fireman, 1916 8PM: (Shorts) By the Sea, 1915, The Immigrant, 1917, A Night in the Show, 1915 FRI, JULY 3 5PM: (Shorts) The Adventurer, 1917) Easy Street, 1917, The Cure, 1917 8PM: (Shorts) The Kid, 1921, The Immigrant, 1917, Behind the Screen, 1916 SAT, JULY 4 5PM: (Shorts) The Pilgrim, 1923, A Night in the Show, 1915, His New Job, 1915 8PM: Tillie´s Punctured Romance, 1914 / Mack Sennett SUN JULY 5 5PM: A Woman of Paris, 1923 8PM: The Gold Rush, 1925 TUE, JULY 7 5PM: The Circus, 1928 8PM: City Lights, 1931 WED, JULY 8 5PM: Modern Times, 1935 8PM: The Great Dictator, 1940 Note: The films will be shown at Cine 23 y 12 & Cine Chaplin. For more information, call 7833-6906 and 7831-1101, respectively cuba’s digital destination contents PAGE 43 THEATRE La oveja negra dando leña Grupos La Oveja Negra & La Leña del Humor July 10-11, 8:30pm; July 12, 5pm Teatro Karl Marx Comedy show by two of the most popular groups within the genre. Mecánica Argos Teatro / Production: Carlos Celdrán Fri & Sat 8:30pm; Sun 5pm, Argos Teatro Play written by award-winning Abel González Melo, which based on Henrik Ibsen’s A Doll’s House, turns the conflict around while it deals with an aspect of that is scarcely dealt with on the Cuban stage: the world of the nouveau riche. Muertecita de miedo Through July 18. Tues, Wed, & Thurs, 8:30pm Sala Adolfo Llauradó One-man show with Ernesto González Umpierre (El Flacomímico). Decamerón La octava puerta Teatro del Caballero / Production: José Antonio Alonso Fridays & Saturdays, 8:30pm; Sundays, 5pm Sala Adolfo Llauradó According to Jose Antonio Alonso, in this play “there is a convergence of several characters that an actor left in his home when he moved to Spain. They become the actor’s very essence: a petulant transvestite who represses him, a rough peasant, an experimentalist who has spent all his life experimenting and has become twisted, and an unfinished Oedipus Rex, who in addition to being blind, there is a blackout in Havana and he wants to go to Thebes with a blinThey become the actor’s very essence: a petulant transvestite who represses him, a rough peasant, an experimentalist who has spent all his life experimenting and has become twisted, and an unfinished Oedipus Rex, who in addition to being blind, there is a blackout in Havana and he wants to go to Thebes with a blind destination. These are four conflicts that we Cubans have and which are present anywhere in the world.” Teatro El Público / Production: Carlos Díaz Fri & Sat 8:30pm; Sun 5pm Teatro Trianón Several stories from Giovanni Boccaccio’s The Decameron are put onstage with more than a hint at Cuba today. Those who expect nudity galore from Carlos Díaz are in for a surprise. cuba’s digital destination contents PAGE 44 FOR KIDS Mowgli, el mordido por los lobos Teatro La Proa Saturdays & Sundays, 11pm Sala Adolfo Llauradó With a structure that is very close to the story, this puppet show, based on Rudyard Kipling’s The Jungle Book, is a call to overcome the difficulties of life. La muchachita del mar Caras blancas Free adaptation of the fairy tale The Little Mermaid by the Danish author Hans Christian Andersen. Show by Teatro Tuyo, directed by Ernesto Parra. Los payasos olvidados y enamorados El tío Coyote y el tío Conejo Grupo Retablos July 16 & 17, 5pm Teatro Nacional de Guiñol Teatro Papalote July 31, 5pm Teatro Nacional de Guiñol Written and directed by René Fernández, this is the love story of two clowns, in which the protagonists, who become involved in complex but fun situations, dance, sing and act in a play of theater within the theater. Teatro Tuyo July 17, 11am; July 18 & 19, 11am & 5pm Teatro Nacional de Guiñol Grupo de teatro El Arca Fridays, Saturdays & Sundays, 3pm Teatro de títeres El Arca Along with puppeteer and actor Adalett Perez, Uncle Rabbit and Uncle Coyote play pranks in Mrs. Federica’s orchard until, with the help of the audience, they discover that you have to respect what is not yours. The show ends with Cotorrita Alegría puppet cuba’s digital destination contents PAGE 45 EVENTS IN HAVANA III Festival Nacional Creciendo en el Hip Hop July Havana The Cuban Rap Agency and the Cuban Institute of Music have organized this festival in which Cuban children and teenagers have the opportunity to discover their talents in the stylistic elements of the subculture of rapping, Djing, breakdancing and graffiti writing. Cuballet 2015 July 6-31 Centro Prodanza Under the guidance of the teacher and choreographer Laura Alonso, and directed by choreographer Alberto Mendez, creator of anthological pieces of Cuban ballet, such as Tarde en la siesta, the event will address the peculiarities of the Cuban school of ballet through special courses for students and teachers. The program includes classes in ballet, pointe work, adagio, repertoire, physical efficiency, modern dance, Spanish dance, Cuban dances, acting and makeup. The Laura Alonso Ballet, along with the international participants, will stage the original version of Marius Petipa’s Don Quixote. Circuba 2015 July 8-13, Karl Marx Theater, Carpa Trompoloco, Cabaret Copa Room Trapeze, balancing on cylinders, fabrics, ribbons, net and aerial hoop, and tightrope walking are some of the acts of traditional and contemporary circus that will characterize this year’s festival. Among the participating artists, the Moscowbased Rosgoscirk will return this year with a juggling act starring Diana Stepanova; Russia will also bring Ekaterina Malysheva and Andrei Petrov in aerial silk, while Italy will be represented by Lucas Marrocchi performing on the pole. From Germany, the Academy of Acrobatic Arts will present numbers on the fixed trapeze and hula hoop. Cuban performers Jorge Perezoff and Zoima Vázquez, who now live in Spain, will exhibit traditional juggling with hoops. The opening gala will be held at the Karl Marx Theatre on Wednesday 8, 9pm. The Copa Room of the Riviera Hotel will host performances from July 10-12. Meanwhile, the competition will take place at the recently renovated Trompoloco big tent. cuba’s digital destination contents PAGE 46 EVENTS IN HAVANA Feria de Arte en La Rampa Opens July 10 Pabellón Cuba As is customary every summer since the year 2000, the Art at La Rampa Crafts Fair opens its door at the Pabellón Cuba, emblematic building of 1960s Cuban architecture, with an attractive offer that includes the sale of serigraphs, footwear, clothing, costume jewelry, fans, household goods, furniture, ornaments, and much more. Fashion shows, concerts and activities for the kiddies will also take place during the Fair. AM-PM América por su Música July 18-23 Fábrica de Arte Cubano Musicians and agents from the continent will be meeting in Havana during the first edition of this encounter that will deal with the sound scene in Cuba and Latin America. The event includes 16 mini concerts, from Cuban trova to jazz, with performances by Harold López-Nussa, Yissy y Banda Ancha, Kelvis Ochoa, Síntesis and David Blanco, just to name a few. cuba’s digital destination contents PAGE 47 EVENTS IN HAVANA Rutas y Andares 2015 The successful, traditional summer tours organized by the City Historian’s Office since 2001 bring the rich cultural heritage of Havana closer to its people and visitors. This year’s tours are also focused on family participation. Tickets on sale at Museo de la Ciudad, Museo de Arte Colonial, Convento de San Francisco de Asís, Museo Casa Natal de José Martí, and Maqueta del Centro Histórico, Mon-Sun, 9am-5pm. For detailed information, call 7866 4035 / 7864 4336-37 (ext. 107) at the Centro de Información Cultural, Oficios # 8 e/ Obispo y Obrapía, La Habana Vieja. Rutas (Routes) The Animal World Art in Ethnographic Museums Animals as constituents of drugs in antiquity and symbolism in pharmacy; celestial zodiac fauna and Cuban fish species Visit to collections of visual and decorative arts, with an ethnographic view of the manners and customs of Arab, African, Asian and American nations. Tues, July 14/28, Aug 11, 10am Tues, July 14, Aug 4/18, 10am Planetario & Aqvarivm Tues, July 21, Aug 11, 10am Casa Benito Juárez, Casa Oswaldo Guayasamín & Casa Simón Bolívar Museo de la Farmacia Habanera & Farmacia Taquechel Tues, July 21, Aug 4/18, 10am Casa de Asia, Casa de África & Casa de los Árabes cuba’s digital destination contents PAGE 48 Coffee Route: a culture from the palate José Martí on the road to the liberators Its origin in African, introduction in Europe and arrival in Cuba (from colonial time to the present used as theme in Cuban contemporary art) Dedicated to the 120th anniversary of the start of the last stage for Cuba’s liberation of Spanish colonialism led by José Martí and the Cuban Revolutionary Party Tues, 10am Museo de la Ciudad, de Arte Colonial, Numismático, Napoleónico, Casa de los Árabes, Casa de África & Palacio de Lombillo. Taller de Papel Artesanal and Perfumería Habana 1791, only guided tours Thursdays, 10am JULY 9 Museo de la Ciudad (Hall of Flags), includes virtual tour of Museo Casa Natal de José Martí JULY 16 Casa Juan Gualberto Gómez JULY 23 Museo Numismático Tues, July 21, 10am Museo Napoleónico Quinta de los Molinos Plants, animals and the environment Tuesdays, 10am José Martí on the road to the liberators Dedicated to the 120th anniversary of the start of the last stage for Cuba’s liberation of Spanish colonialism led by José Martí and the Cuban Revolutionary Party JULY 7 Example of heritage management JULY 14 History of the Quinta de los Molinos JULY 21 Knowing the trees at the Quinta Thursdays, 10am JULY 28 Bonsai growing JULY 9 AUGUST 4 Animals. care and handling Museo de la Ciudad (Hall of Flags), includes virtual tour of Museo Casa Natal de José Martí AUGUST 11 Pigeons, care and handling JULY 16 Casa Juan Gualberto Gómez AUGUST 18 Ornamental plants at the Quinta JULY 23 Museo Numismático Baroque Art Alicia Alonso. Orbit of a legend Basílica Menor de San Francisco de Asís Fridays, 10am Tribute to the Cuban prima ballerina assoluta ton her 95th birthday JULY 10 The Baroque Centro Hispano-Americano de Cultura, 2pm JULY 17 Baroque architecture JULY 9 JULY 31 Baroque painting Exhibition Giselle and Carmen, documentary Alicia Alonso. Órbita de una leyenda AUGUST 7 Baroque sculpture JULY 16 AUGUST 14 The decorative arts in the Baroque Lecture “Carmen and Alonso” by Eduardo Heras León AUGUST 21 Music in the Baroque JULY 23 Lecture “You are Roberto Mendez Giselle“ by JULY 30 Lecture “You are Roberto Mendez Giselle“ by AUGUST 6 Guided tour to the Museum of Dance AUGUST 13 Educational show “An encounter with dance” by Miguel Cabrera AUGUST 20 Lecture “Eternal dance” by Ahmed Piñeiro cuba’s digital destination contents PAGE 49 Andares (Walks) Virtual walks for the elderly Walking with the Walkers Departure: Plaza de Armas or otherwise indicated, 10am JULY 8 Pogolotti neighborhood. Departure: Calle 51 y 94, Centro Deportivo Jesús Menéndez, Marianao JULY 15 Culinary art in Havana JULY 22 Lithographic art JULY 29 Clandestine in Havana AUGUST 5 Image of men. Departure: Plazuela de Compostela, entre Luz y Acosta AUGUST 12 Soñaría Habana cartoon story. Departure: Plaza de la Catedral AUGUST 19 Havana’s mural heritage in the Republican era: Hipólito de Caviedes Reservations by telephone or in person at the place where the activity will be held. Free of charge. Starts at 10am JULY 6 Quinta de los Molinos: Universal Heritage JULY 8 Museo Casa Natal de José Martí: Martí in Dominican Republic JULY 9, AUG 6 Casa de la Poesía: Egypt, the known and the unknown JULY 14 Quinta de los Molinos JULY 15 Museo Casa Natal de José Martí. Martí in Venezuela Archivo Histórico de la Oficina del Historiador (Edificio Santo Domingo, Oficios entre Mercaderes y San Ignacio, Tel 7869 7386, exts. 38613, 38614 & 38615) Knowing Cuba from its maps and drawings. A look at the collection of the Historical Archives of the Office of the City Historian. JULY 16 Fábrica de Arte Cubano: industrial heritage. Reservations at Casa de las Tejas Verdes) Walking with Architecture Departure: Plaza de Armas, 10am JULY 9 Courtyards JULY 16 Facades JULY 23 Stained-glass windows JULY 30 Interior design JULY 15 & 30 AUG 10/20 Casa Victor Hugo, the Palace of Versailles AUGUST 6 Architecture in banks JULY 20 AUGUST 13 Religious architecture Planetarium: Exploring the solar system AUGUST 20 Public civil architecture JULY 22 Museo Casa Natal de José Martí Martí: song AUGUST 17 Casa Victor Hugo: Music in 19thcentury periodicals (Reservations Tel. 7869 7262, ext. 26205) AUG 19 & 21 Museo Napoleónico: French Architecture and styles in El Vedado Walking with Contemporary Art Departure: Plaza de Armas, 10am JULY 10 From paper to celluloid JULY 17 Design behind closed doors JULY 31 Multiple originals in visual arts AUGUST 7 Ceramics AUGUST 14 Public art site I AUGUST 21 Public art site II Open House at the Capitolio Building Visit to the restoration project of Havana’s Capitolio. Given the characteristics of this work and the safety and protection measures required, the tour will be reserved by telephone at the Centro de Información Cultural (7866 4035). The visits will be free of charge. cuba’s digital destination contents PAGE 50 AROUND CUBA Fiesta de la Música Alternativa Ciudad del Mar Terry Theater, Tropisur, Cubanísimo, Centro Cultural Julio Antonio Mella, Jardines de la UNEAC and Plaza de Actos Performances include 45 bands and soloists, such as Karamba, Qva Libre, Arnaldo Rodríguez y su Talismán, La Charanga Latina, Son del Nene, Yoruba Andabo, Adrián Berazaín, Buena Fe, Ernesto & David Blanco, Mayco D´Alma, Pedro Luis Ferrer, Will Campa, Tanmy López, Waldo Mendoza, Tania Pantoja and Dayani Gutiérrez, who will join the Lucas Project and the Piso 6 and Cuerda viva TV shows. The opening will be held on July 2 at 9pm at the Theater Terry with the concert A golpe de sombrero, featuring Karamba, Qva Libre and Adrián Berazaín, who host the project of the same name. Qva Libre, Tania Pantoja and the Lucas Project will perform at the Plaza de Actos at midnight, while Karamba, Will Campa and David Blanco have announced a “duel” with different music styles and three numbers each at Plaza de Actos, July 5, 11:30pm. XXXV Festival Internacional del Caribe July 3-9 Santiago de Cuba This meeting of cultures of the Caribbean people will be one of the main celebrations for the half millennium of the founding of the Santiago de Cuba, the Festival’s host city since 1984. Dedicated this year to the Commonwealth of The Bahamas, the festival will feature more than 1,000 guests from 30 countries around the Caribbean, Latin America and Europe, as well as scholars and exponents of Cuban traditional popular culture. Dominicans Johnny Ventura and Maridalia Hernandez, founding member of the 440 band along with Juan Luis Guerra, will be performing at the Heredia Theater on July 4 and 5, respectively. During the event, the Caribbean Carnival Network will be created under the auspices of the Association of Caribbean States to heighten this musical and dance expression so deeprooted in the region. International Awards Casa del Caribe will be given to Cuban poet Waldo Leyva, to founding members of the Festival del Caribe and to the Junkanoo, an autochthonous music and dance manifestation of the Bahamas. As usual, the Caribbean that Unites Us Colloquium is the principal theoretical activity, which will include a workshop on popular religiosity, a panel of historians who will talk about Cuban towns that are 500 years old, the Almas Nuevas meeting of young artists, the Meeting of Caribbean Poets, the popular and well-liked serpent and fire parades, the Haitian and West Indian parties, and the tribute to slave rebelliousness II Festival Filtro de Campaña, Bayamo 2015 July 10-17 Bayamo Theater, Bayamo, Granma Province This meeting of performing arts in the eastern region will include notable critics of the Cuban stage, with the participation of specialists from Casa de las Americas, the Tablas Alarcos Magazine and theater and dance groups y from Granma, Holguín, Las Tunas and Camagüey Provinces. cuba’s digital destination contents PAGE 51 “CUBANOS - ISLAND PORTRAITS” photographs by Lorenzo DeStefano THE MUSEUM OF VENTURA COUNTY July 18–September 13, 2015 Saturday July 18, 10am–12 noon ARTWALK VENTURA 2015 LAUNCH EVENT Cuban Breakfast Lecture Guests include Bill Hendricks, Lorenzo DeStefano, and visiting Cuban artists Pedro Pulido and Victor Pina Tabio Saturday July 18, 12:30pm–5:00pm Exhibition Opening “CUBANOS-ISLAND PORTRAITS” w/ photographer Lorenzo DeStefano In celebration of Artwalk Ventura 2015, the Museum of Ventura County will showcase 16 black & white photographs by Lorenzo DeStefano, among the hundreds created during his journeys to Cuba. Between 1993 and 1998 DeStefano traversed the island’s urban centers as well as its lesser known rural provinces, capturing intimate portraits of its inhabitants. Through his photographs we see fresh glimpses of everyday life, introducing us to people whose faces reaffirm our common humanity. The Museum of Ventura County 100 E. Main Street, Ventura, Ca. 93001 www.venturamuseum.org / 805 641-1876 Havana’s best places to eat La Guarida El Atelier 5 Bella Ciao 4+ Café Bohemia 5 Café Laurent 4+ EXPERIMENTAL FUSION HOMELY ITALIAN CAFÉ SPANISH/MEDITERRANEAN Interesting décor, interesting menu. Great service, good prices. A real home from home. Bohemian feel. Great sandwiches, salads & juices Attractive penthouse restaurant with breezy terrace. Calle 5 e/ Paseo y 2, Vedado (+53) 7-836-2025 Calle 19 y 72, Playa (+53) 7-206-1406 Calle San Ignacio #364, Habana Vieja Calle M #257, e/ 19 y 21, Vedado (+53) 7-831-2090 Casa Miglis El Chanchullero La California 5 La Casa 5 5 5 CUBAN-CREOLE/INTERNATIONAL CONTEMPORARY FUSION SWEDISH-CUBAN FUSION SPANISH/MEDITERRANEAN Beautiful C19 colonial building. Great fresh pastas. VIP service. The Robaina family place. Thurs Sushi night. Oasis of good food & taste in Centro Habana Fabulous value hole in the wall tapas. Trendy. Calle Crespo #55 e/ San Lázaro y Refugio, Centro Habana (+53) 7-863 7510 Calle 30 #865 e/ 26 y 41, Nuevo Vedado (+53) 7-881-7000 Lealtad #120 e/ Ánimas y Lagunas, Centro Habana (+53) 7-864-1486 Teniente Rey #457 bajos, Plaza del Cristo, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-872-8227 Le Chansonnier El Cocinero Corte Príncipe 4 5 5+ Il Divino 4+ CONTEMPORARY FUSION INTERNATIONAL ITALIAN INTERNATIONAL Stylish & contemporary with good food. Expensive. Industrial chic alfresco rooftop with a buzzing atmosphere Sergio’s place. Simple décor, spectacular food. Set in huge gardens outside town. Great for the kids. Calle J #257 e/ Línea y 15, Vedado (+53) 7-832-1576 Calle 26, e/ 11 y 13, Vedado. (+53) 7-832-2355 Calle 9na esq. a 74, Miramar (+53) 5-255-9091 Calle Raquel, #50 e/ Esperanza y Lindero, Arroyo Naranjo (+53) 7-643-7734 D. Eutimia 5+ Esperanza 4+ La Fontana La Guarida 4 5+ CUBAN/CREOLE CUBAN FUSION INTERNATIONAL INTERNATIONAL Absolutely charming. Excellent Cuban/creole food. Intimate, idiosyncratic & charming (not cheap). Consistently good food, attentive service. Old school. Justifiably famous. Follow in the footsteps of Queen of Spain Callejón del Chorro #60C, Plaza de la Catedral, Habana Vieja (+53) 7 861 1332 Calle 16 #105 e/ 1ra y 3ra, Miramar (+53) 7-202-4361 Calle 46 #305 esq. a 3ra, Miramar (+53) 7-202-8337 Concordia #418 e/ Gervasio y Escobar, Centro Habana (+53) 7-866-9047 Habana Mia 7 Iván Chef 5 5+ El Litoral 5+ Nautilus 5 INTERNATIONAL GOURMET SPANISH INTERNATIONAL FRENCH/MEDITERRANEAN Endless summer nights. Excellent food and service. Brilliantly creative and rich food. Watch the world go by at the Malecón’s best restaurant. Imaginative, tasty and innovative menu. Paseo #7 altos e/ 1ra y 3ra. Vedado (+53) 7-830-2287 Aguacate #9 esq. a Chacón, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-863-9697 Malecón #161 e/ K y L, Vedado (+53) 7-830-2201 Calle 84 #1116 e/ 11 y 13. Playa (+53) 5-237-3894 Nazdarovie 5+ Opera 5 Otra Manera 5 Río Mar 5 SOVIET INTERNATIONAL INTERNATIONAL INTERNATIONAL Well designed Soviet décor, excellent food & good service. Homely & intimate environment. Quality food. By reservation. Beautiful modern decor. Interesting menu and good service. Contemporary décor. Great sea-view. Good food. Calle 5ta #204 e/ E y F, Vedado (+53) 5-263-1632 (+53) 8-31-2255 Calle #35 e/ 20 y 41, Playa. (+53) 7-203-8315 Santy Starbien Malecon #25, 3rd floor e Prado y Carcel, Centro Habana (+53) 7-860-2947 San Cristóbal 5 5+ Ave. 3raA y Final #11, La Puntilla, Miramar (+53) 7-209-4838 5+ VIP Havana 5 CUBAN/CREOLE SUSHI/ORIENTAL SPANISH/MEDITERRANEAN SPANISH Deservedly popular.Consistently great food. Kitsch décor. Authentic fisherman’s shack servicing world-class sushi. Fabulous food and great service in the heart of Vedado. Jordi’s place. Fabulous modern open-plan space. San Rafael #469 e/ Lealtad y Campanario, Centro Habana (+53) 7-860-9109 Calle 240A #3023 esq. a 3ra C, Jaimanitas (+53) 5-286-7039 Calle 29 #205 e/ B y C, Vedado (+53) 7-830-0711 Calle 9na #454 e/ E y F, Vedado (+53) 7-832-0178 contents July 2015 PAGE 53 La Guarida 5+ TOP PICK Style of food Contemporary fusion CostExpensive www.laguarida.com Type of place Private (Paladar) Food Ambience Service Value Best for Authentic, charming and intimate atmosphere in Cuba’s best known restaurant. Great food, professional. Classy. Don’t Miss Uma Thurman, Beyoncé or the Queen of Spain if they happen to be dining next to you. Concordia #418 e/ Gervasio y Escobar, Centro Habana. (+53) 7-866-9047 El Litoral 5+ TOP PICK Style of food International CostExpensive Type of place Private (Paladar) Food Ambience Service Value Best for Quality décor, good service and great food. Best new place recently opened. Don’t Miss Drinking a cocktail at sunset watching the world go by on the Malecón Malecón #161 e/ K y L, Vedado. (+53) 7-830-2201 Nazdarovie 5+ TOP PICK Style of food Soviet CostModerate Type of place Private (Paladar) Food Ambience Service Value Best for Getting a flavor of Cuban-Soviet history along with babuska’s traditional dishes in a classy locale. Don’t miss Vodka sundowners on the gorgeous terrace overlooking the malecon. Malecon #25 3rd floor e/ Prado y Carcel, Centro Habana (+53) 7-860-2947 Santy 5+ TOP PICK Style of food Sushi CostModerate Type of place Private (Paladar) Food Ambience Service Value Best for Fabulous sushi, wonderful ambience overlooking fishing boats heading out to sea. World class. Don’t miss Getting a reservation here. Calle 240A #3023 esq. 3raC, Jaimanitas (+53) 5-286-7039 contents July 2015 PAGE 54 Iván Chef Justo 5+ TOP PICK Style of food Spanish CostExpensive Type of place Private (Paladar) Food Ambience Service Value Best for Spectacular innovative food. Light and airy place where it always seems to feel like Springtime. Don’t Miss The lightly spiced grilled mahimahi served with organic tomato relish. Try the suckling pig and stay for the cuatro leches. Aguacate #9, Esq. Chacón, Habana Vieja. (+53) 7-863-9697 / (+53) 5-343-8540 Casa Miglis 5 TOP PICK Style of food Swedish-Cuban fusion CostExpensive Type of place Private (Paladar) Food Ambience Service Value Best for The beautifully designed interior, warm ambience and Miglis’s personality create the feeling of an oasis in Central Havana. Don’t Miss Chatting with Mr Miglis. The Skaargan prawns, beef Chilli and lingonberries. Lealtad #120 e/ Ánimas y Lagunas, Centro Habana (+53) 7-864-1486 www.casamiglis.com Habana Mía 7 5 TOP PICK Style of food International gourmet CostModerate Type of place Private (Paladar) Food Ambience Service Value Best for Stylish and fresh décor give a Mediterranean feel for long endless summer nights. Excellent food and service. Don’t miss Watching the world go by on the lovely terrace overlooking the ocean. Paseo #7 altos e/ 1ra y 3ra, Vedado (+53) 7-830-2287 www.habanamia7.com La California 5 TOP PICK Style of food Cuban-Creole/International CostModerate Type of place Private (Paladar) Food Ambience Service Value Best for Beautiful C19 colonial building. Popular place with quality food and great service. Love the fresh pastas. Dont’t Miss The interesting history of the neighbourhood, where Chano Pozo (legendary Afro-Cuban jazz percussionist) hung out. Calle Crespo #55 e/ San Lázaro y Refugio, Centro Habana (+53) 7-863-7510 contents July 2015 PAGE 55 Atelier 5 TOP PICK Style of food Experimental fusion CostExpensive Type of place Private (Paladar) Food Ambience Service Value Best for Interesting menu, beautiful building with great décor and service. Don’t miss Dinner on the breezy terrace during summer. Calle 5ta e/ Paseo y 2, Vedado (+53) 7-836-2025 [email protected] La Casa 5 TOP PICK Style of food International/sushi CostExpensive Type of place Private (Paladar) Food Ambience Service Value Best for Warm hospitality and openness from the four generations of the Robaina family. Quality food. Don’t miss Thursday night sushi night. The Piña Colada. Calle 30 #865 e/ 26 y 41, Nuevo Vedado. (+53) 7-881-7000 [email protected] Otramanera 5 TOP PICK Style of food International CostModerate Type of place Private (Paladar) Food Ambience Service Value Best for Beautiful modern décor and good food. Don’t miss Pork rack of ribs in honey. Sweet & sour sauce and grilled pineapple Calle 35 #1810 e/ 20 y 41, Playa (+53) 7-203-8315 [email protected] [email protected] Opera 5 TOP PICK Style of food International CostModerate Type of place Private (Paladar) Food Ambience Service Value Best for Best for Homely & Intimate enviroment Quality food in a beautiful setting. Don’t miss Fresh pasta, vegetarian dishes and quail. Calle 5ta #204 e/ E y F, Vedado (+53) 5-263-1632 / (+53) 8-31-2255 contents July 2015 PAGE 56 La Guarida ‘This remains the island’s best restaurant, combining a sophisticated and hip ambience with solid food preparation’ Cigar Aficionado “The greatest and most magical is La Guarida, so magical that it is tempting to protect it by with holding its address…’ The Guardian Havana’s legendary paladar just got better with the opening of a new cocktail terrace that offers fabulous views, a funky vibe and Havana’s best bartenders. Concordia #418 e/ cuba Gervasio ’ysEscobar, Centro Habana / (+53) 7-866-9047 digital destination contents PAGE 57 OPERA Best for Homely & Intimate enviroment Quality food in a beautiful setting Don’t miss: Fresh pasta, vegetarian dishes and quail Dinner: 8:00 PM - 12:00 AM Address: Calle 5ta No. 204 e/ E y F. Vedado Lunch by reservation only Tel: 831 2255 Cel: 52631632 Closed on Tuesday [email protected] NAZDAROVIE OFFERS YOU SPECIAL LUNCH MENUS DURING THE SUMMER SEASON! Beginning on June 29, Nazdarovie, your Soviet cuisine restaurant in Havana, offers special lunch menus For only CUC 10, you can enjoy: One Nazdarovie Shot (frozen vodka with lemon and caviar) Slavic soup of the day (Borsch / Salianka / Akroshka) with homemade black bread One main Dish to choose: * ”Kotleta Kiev” (breaded chicken with butter inside) and mashed potatoes * ”Pollo Tabaka” (chicken Georgian style) with pieces of wild potatoes, homemade pickles and adzhika sauce * ”Shaslik” (Armenian style skewers) of meat (pork, chicken, turkey, beef or mutton) and vegetables, with segments of wild potatoes, homemade pickles and adzhika sauce * ”Pescado con crema rusa” (fresh Russian style fish with smetana cream, dill and fine herbs) served with mashed potatoes Dessert: Blinchiki with cottage cheese, smetana and wild berry marmalade Enjoy the taste of the food from the former republics of the Soviet Union and the best view of the Malecón in Havana… For just CUC 10! cuba’s digital destination contents PAGE 60 OM is Otramanera: “another way” Another way of understanding and enjoying gastronomy in a unique locale where each detail is important. A restaurant that adapts to market availability and to the seasons, serving fresh quality products. Calle 35 #1810 e/ 20 y 41, Playa / (+53) 7-203-8315 [email protected] / [email protected] Sloppy Joe’s Havana’s best Bars & Clubs Traditional Bars El Floridita 4+ Hemingway’s daiquiri bar. Touristy but always full of life. Great cocktails. Obispo #557 esq. a Monserrate, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-867-1299 5 Factoría Plaza Vieja Sloppy Joe’s Bar 4+ ANTIGUO ALMACÉN MADERA Y EL TABACO Recently (beautifully) renovated. Full of history. Popular. Lacks a little ‘grime’. Microbrewery. Serves ice chilled bong of light locally brewed beer. Ánimas esq. a Zulueta, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-866-7157 San Ignacio esq. a Muralla, Plaza Vieja, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-866-4453 Cervecería 5+ DE LA Microbrewery located overlooking the restored docks Simply brilliant. Avenida del Puerto y San Ignacio, La Habana Vieja Contemporary Bars El Cocinero 5+ Fabulous rooftop setting, great service, cool vibe. Calle 26 e/ 11 y 13, Vedado (+53) 7-832-2355 Espacios 5- Laid back contemporary bar with a real buzz in the back beer-garden. TaBARish 5 A comfortable place to chat / hang out with your friends. Great service. Calle 10 #510, e/ 5ta y 31, Miramar Calle 26 e/ 11 y 13, Vedado (next to the Puente de Hierro) (+53) 5-329-6325 www.facebook.com/fabrica. deartecubano (+53) 7-202-9188 Contemporary bars/clubs Don Cangrejo 4+ Love it/hate it—this is the oldest Friday night party place and is still going strong. Outdoor by the sea. Bolabana 5 Trendy new location near Salón Rosado de la Tropical Calle 39 esq. 50, Playa Other Meliá Sports Bar Up & Down 5 From the team that brought you Sangri-La. Attracting a young party crowd, very popular. Take a coat. 4 Big-screen sports-bar in modern outdoor terrace. Good for sports and live music. Meliá Habana Hotel Ave. 3ra e/ 76 y 80, Miramar (+53) 7-204-8500 El Gato Tuerto 4+ Late night place to hear fabulous bolero singers. Can get smoky. El Tocororo 5 Ave. 21 e/ 36 y 42, Miramar (+53) 7-264-8343 4+ Expat favorite hangout. Small indoor bar with live music and eclectic clientele. Calle O e/ 17 y 19, Vedado (+53) 7-833-2224 Sangri-La For the cool kids. Basement bar/club which gets packed at weekends. Calle 3ra y B, Vedado Ave. 1ra e/ 16 & 18, Miramar (+53) 7-204-3837 5+ X Alfonso’s new cultural center. Great concerts, funky young scene. Calle 20 #503, e/ 5ta y 7ma. (+53) 7-836-3031 Fábrica de Arte Calle 18 e/ 3ra y 5ta, Miramar Bertolt Brecht 5 Think MTV Unplugged. Hip, funky and unique with an artsy Cuban crowd. Calle 13 e/ I y J, Vedado (+53) 7-830-1354 Gay-friendly Cabaret Las Vegas 4 Can get dark and smoky but great drag show (11pm) from Divino—one of Cuba’s most accomplished drag acts. Infanta #104 e/ 25 y 27, Vedado. (+53) 7-870-7939 Humboldt 52 5 One of the hottest venues for gay nightlife in Havana at present. Humboldt #52 e/ Infanta y Hospital, Centro Habana. (+53) 5-330-2989 Fashion Bar Havana A superb example of queer class meets camp, accompanied by a fantastic floor show. San Juan de Dios, esq. a Aguacate, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-867-1676 5 Café Bar Madrigal 4 Pop décor, fancy cocktails, and the staff’s supercilious attitude, this is a gathering spot for all types of folks. Calle 17 #809 e/ 2 y 4, Vedado (+53) 7-831-2433 contents July 2015 PAGE 62 Bertolt Brecht 5 TOP PICK CONTEMPORARY BAR/CLUBS Ambience Popularity Entertainment Service & drinks Best for Hanging out with hip & funky Cubans who like their live music. Don’t Miss Interactivo playing on a Wednesday evening. Calle 13 e/ I y J, Vedado (+53) 7-830-1354 Espacios 5- TOP PICK CONTEMPORARY BAR Ambience Popularity Entertainment Service & drinks Best for Laid back lounge atmosphere in the garden area which often has live music. Good turnover of people. Don’t Miss Ray Fernandez, Tony Avila, Yasek Mazano playing live sets in the garden. Calle 10 #510 e/ 5ta y 31, Miramar (+53) 7-202-2921 Sangri-La 5+ TOP PICK CONTEMPORARY BAR/CLUB Ambience Popularity Entertainment Service & drinks Best for Hanging out with the cool kids on the Havana Farundula in the most popular bar/club. Don’t Miss The best gin and tonic in Havana. Ave. 21 e/ 36 y 42, Miramar (+53) 5-264-8343 Bolabana 5 TOP PICK CONTEMPORARY Ambience Popularity Entertainment Service & drinks Best for Trendy new location near Salón Rosado de la Tropical Don’t Miss Hipsters meet the Havana Farándula Calle 39 esq. 50, Playa contents July 2015 PAGE 63 Humboldt 52 5 TOP PICK GAY FRIENDLY Ambience Popularity Entertainment Service & drinks Best for Hot staff, comfortable setting, and welcoming vibe at Havana’s first full-time, openly-gay bar Don’t Miss The disco ball, a talented opera duo performing Wednesdays and karaoke and drag performances other days of the week Humboldt #52 e/ Infanta y Hospital, Centro Habana. (+53) 5-330-2989 Fábrica de Arte 5+ TOP PICK CONTEMPORARY BAR Ambience Popularity Entertainment Service & drinks Best for X Alfonso’s superb new cultural center has something for everyone Don’t Miss Ne pas manquer Les meilleurs musiciens cubains Calle 26 e/ 11 y 13, Vedado (next to the Puente de Hierro) Fashion Bar Havana 5 TOP PICK GAY-FRIENDLY Ambience Popularity Entertainment Service & drinks Best for A superb example of queer class meets camp, accompanied by a fantastic floor show. Don’t Miss The staff performing after 11pm San Juan de Dios, esq. a Aguacate, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-867-1676 TaBARish 5 TOP PICK CONTEMPORARY BAR/CLUB Ambience Popularity Entertainment Service & drinks Best for A comfortable place to chat / hang out with your friends. Great service. Don’t Miss The homemade Russian soup – just like Matushka makes it. Calle 20 #503, e/ 5ta y 7ma. (+53) 7-202-9188 contents July 2015 PAGE 64 Basílica Menor de San Francisco de Asís Havana’s best live music venues Concert venues Karl Marx Theatre 5 World class musicians perform prestigious concerts in Cuba’s best equipped venue. Calle 1ra esq. a 10, Miramar (+53) 7-203-0801 Basílica San Francisco de Asís 5 A truly beautiful church, which regularly hosts fabulous classical music concerts. Fábrica de Arte 5 X Alfonso’s new cultural center. Great concerts inside (small and funky) and outside (large and popular!). Oficios y Amargura, Plaza de San Francisco de Asís, Habana Vieja Calle 26 e/ 11 y 13, Vedado (next to the Puente de Hierro) Jazz Café Privé Lounge Sala Covarrubias 5 TEATRO NACIONAL Recently renovated, one of Cuba’s most prestigious venues for a multitude of events. Paseo y 39, Plaza de la Revolución. Jazz Café Jazz Miramar 4+ Clean, modern and atmospheric. Where Cuba’s best musicians jam and improvise. Galerías de Paseo Ave. 1ra e/ Paseo y A, Vedado Cine Teatro Miramar 10:30pm – 2am Ave. 5ta esq. a 94, Miramar Salsa/Timba Café Cantante Mi Habana 4 Attracts the best Cuban musicians. Recently renovated with an excellent new sound system. Ave. Paseo esq. a 39, Plaza de la Revolución (+53) 7-878-4273 Contemporary Café Teatro Bertolt Brecht 5 Think MTV Unplugged when musicians play. Hip, funky and unique with an artsy Cuban crowd. Calle 13 e/ I y J, Vedado (+53) 7-830-1354 Trova & traditional Barbaram Pepito’s Bar 4+ Some of the best Cuban Nueva Trova musicians perform in this small and intimate environment. Calle 26 esq. a Ave. del Zoológico. Nuevo Vedado (+53) 7-881-1808 4 A staple of Havana’s jazz scene, the best jazz players perform here. Somewhat cold atmosphere-wise. Casa de la Música 5+ Small and intimate lounge club with great acoustics and beautiful decor. Jazz groups play Sunday night. Casa de la Música CENTRO HABANA MIRAMAR A little rough around the edges but spacious. For better or worse, this is ground zero for the best in Cuban salsa. Smaller and more up-market than its newer twin in Centro Habana. An institution in the Havana salsa scene. Galiano e/ Neptuno y Concordia, Centro Habana (+53) 7-860-8296/4165 Calle 20 esq. a 35, Miramar (+53) 7-204-0447 Don Cangrejo 4+ Love it/hate it—this is the oldest Friday night party place and is still going strong. Outdoor by the sea. Ave. 1ra e/ 16 y 18, Miramar (+53) 7-204-3837 Gato Tuerto 4+ Late night place to hear fabulous bolero singers. Can get smoky. Calle O entre 17 y 19, Vedado (+53) 7-833-2224 El Sauce Calle 23 e/ N y O, Vedado (+53) 7-833-2402 4 5 Ave. 41 esq. a 46, Playa Times: varies wildly (+53) 7-203-5322 5- Ave. 9na #12015 e/ 120 y 130, Playa (+53) 7-204-6428 Teatro de Bellas Artes 4+ Small intimate venue inside Cuba’s most prestigious arts museum. Modern. Trocadero e/ Zulueta y Monserrate, Habana Vieja. 5 See Buena Vista Social Club musicians still performing nightly from 9pm. Touristy but fabulous. Zulueta #660 e/ Apodaca y Gloria, Centro Habana (+53) 7-861-7761 Salón Rosado de la Tropical The legendary beer garden where Arsenio tore it up. Look for a salsa/timba gig on a Sat night and a Sun matinee. Great outdoor concert venue to hear the best in contemporary & Nueva Trova live in concert. Legendarios de Guajirito 5 Intimate and atmospheric, this basement jazz club, which you enter through a red telephone box, is Cuba’s most famous. Calle 88A #306 e/ 3ra y 3raA, Miramar (+53) 7-209-2719 4 La Zorra y el Cuervo 4+ Salón 1930 ‘Compay Segundo’ Buena Vista Social Club style set in the grand Hotel Nacional. Hotel Nacional Calle O esq. a 21, Vedado (+53) 7-835-3896 contents July 2015 PAGE 65 Havana’s Best Hotels Hotel Nacional de Cuba Simply the best… Iberostar Parque Central 5+ Santa Isabel 5+ Luxurious historic mansion facing Plaza de Armas Luxury hotel overlooking Parque Central 5 Beautifully restored colonial house. 5 Cuban baroque meets modern minimalist Obispo #252, esq. a Cuba, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-862-4127 Oficios #152 esq. a Amargura, Habana Vieja Business Hotels Meliá Cohíba Palacio del Marqués... 5 Oasis of polished marble and professional calm. Meliá Habana 5 Attractive design & extensive facilities. Ave Paseo e/ 1ra y 3ra, Vedado (+53) 7- 833-3636 4 A must for Hemingway aficionados Mercure Sevilla 4 Bosque On the banks of the Río Almendares. Calle 28-A e/ 49-A y 49-B, Reparto Kohly, Playa (+53) 7-204-9232 3 Deauville Lack of pretension, great location. Galiano e/ Sán Lázaro y Malecón, Centro Habana (+53) 7-866-8812 4+ Hotel Nacional 3 Saint John’s Lively disco, tiny quirky pool. Popular. Calle O e/ 23 y 25, Vedado (+53) 7-833-3740 H10 Habana Panorama 4+ Cascades of glass. Good wi-fi. Modern. Ave. 3ra. y 70, Miramar (+53) 7 204-0100 5 Riviera 3 Spectacular views over wavelashed Malecón Calle O esq. a 21, Vedado (+53) 7-835 3896 Economical/Budget Hotels 5 Mercaderes #202, esq. a Lamparilla (+53) 7-862-9293 Eclectic art-deco architecture. Gorgeous gardens. Trocadero #55 entre Prado y Zulueta, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-860-8560 Conde de Villanueva Delightfully small and intimate. For cigar lovers. Oficios #53 esq. a Obrapía, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-867-1037 Ave. 5ta. e/ 70 y 72, Miramar (+53) 7-204-3583 Stunning views from the roof garden restaurant. Calle Obispo #153 esq. a Mercaderes, Habana Vieja (+53) 7- 860-9529 5+ Immensely charming, great value. Occidental Miramar 5 Malecón esq. a Lealtad, Centro Habana (+53) 7-862-8061 Good value, large spacious modern rooms. Ave. 3ra y 70, Miramar (+53) 5-204-8500 For a sense of history Ambos Mundos Hostal Valencia Terral Wonderful ocean front location. Newly renovated. Paseo del Prado #603 esq. a Dragones, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-860-8201 Boutique Hotels in Old Havana Florida 5+ Stunning view from roof-top pool. Beautiful décor. Narciso López, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-860-8201 Neptuno e/ Prado y Zulueta, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-860-6627 Saratoga Paseo y Malecón, Vedado (+53) 7-836-4051 3 Vedado 3 Good budget option with a bit of a buzz Calle O e/ 23 y 25, Vedado (+53) 7-836-4072 contents July 2015 PAGE 66 Cañaveral House Havana’s best private places to stay For Help reserving any Private Accommodation (Casas Particulares) in Cuba please contact [email protected] Mid range - Casa Particular (B&B) 1932 Carlos in cuba 4 5 Gay Friendly BED and Breakfast in Havana Visually stunning, historically fascinating. Welcoming. Calle 2 #505 e/ 23 y 21, Vedado (+53) 7-833-1329 (+53) 5-295-4893 [email protected] www.carlosincuba.com Campanario #63 e/ San Lázaro y Laguna, Centro Habana (+53) 7-863-6203 Habana 5 Beautiful colonial townhouse with great location. Julio y Elsa 5 Cluttered bohemian feel. Hospitable. Calle Habana #209, e/ Empedrado, y Tejadillo, Habana Vieja. (+53) 7-861-0253 Consulado #162 e/ Colón y Trocadero, Centro Habana (+53) 7-861-8027 Artedel Hostal Guanabo Up-scale B&Bs (Boutique hostals) Cañaveral House But undoubtedly the most beautiful about private homes in Cuba 5 Vitrales 39A street, #4402, between 44 y 46, Playa, La Habana Cuba (+53) 295-5700 http://www.cubaguesthouse. com/canaveral.home. html?lang=en 5 Hospitable, attractive and reliable boutique B&B with 9 bedrooms. 5+ Ydalgo Martínez Matos’s spacious and contemporary 3-bedroom penthouse is magnificent. Habana #106 e/ Cuarteles y Chacón, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-866-2607 5 Beautiful 4 bedroom seafront villa in sleepy Guanabo. Excellent food. Calle 480 #1A04 e/ 1ra y 3ra, Guanabo (+53) 7-799-0004 Calle I #260 e/ 15 y 17, Vedado (+53) 5-830-8727 Apartment rentals Bohemia Hostal 5+ Gorgeous 1-bedroom apartment beautifully decorated apartment overlooking Plaza Vieja. 5+ Beautifully designed and spacious 3 bedroom apartment. Spanish colonial interiors with cheerful, arty accents. San Ignacio #364 e/ Muralla y Teniente Rey, Plaza Vieja Habana Vieja (+53) 5- 403-1 568 (+53) 7-836-6567 www.havanabohemia.com 5 Rent Room elegant and wellequipped. Beautiful wild garden and great pool. Calle 17 #1101 e/ 14 y 16, Vedado (+34) 677525361 (+53) 7-832-1927 (+53) 5-360-0456 Casablanca Tropicana Penthouse 5 5 Morro-Cabaña Park. House #29 (+53) 5-294-5397 www.havanacasablanca.com Michael and María Elena This leafy oasis in western Havana has an attractive mosaic tiled pool and three modern bedrooms. Calle 66 #4507 e/ 45 y Final, Playa (+53) 7-209-0084 5 Lamparilla #62 altos e/ Mercaderes y San Ignacio, Habana Vieja (+53) 5-829-6524 Galiano #60 Penthouse Apt.10 e/ San Lázaro y Trocadero (+53) 5-254-5240 www.tropicanapenthouse.com Elegant well-equipped villa formerly owned by Fulgencio Batista. Beautiful wild garden. Suite Havana Elegant 2-bedroom apartment in restored colonial building. Quality loft style décor. A luxurious penthouse with huge roof terrace and breathtaking 360 degree views of Havana and the ocean. Concordia #151 apto. 8 esq. a San Nicolás, Centro Habana (+53) 5-254-5240 www.casaconcordia.net Luxury Houses Villasol Casa Concordia 5 Residencia Mariby 5 A sprawling vanilla-hued mansion with 6 rooms decorated with colonial-era lamps, tiles and Louis XV furniture Vedado. (+53) 5-370-5559 contents July 2015 PAGE 67 Artedel Luxury 5+ TOP PICK 3 BEDROOM PENTHOUSE Facilities Rooms Ambience Value Best for Stylish and contemporary furniture along with a beautiful 360-degree view over Havana Don’t Miss Ydalgo – an impeccable host, discreet or gregarious, as you prefer Calle I #260, e/ 15 and 17, Vedado (+53) 7-830-8727 Bohemia Hostal 5+ TOP PICK GORGEOUS 1 BEDROOM APARTMENT Facilities Rooms Ambience Value Best for Independent beautifully decorated apartment overlooking Plaza Vieja. Don’t Miss Spending time in Havana’s most atmospheric Plaza. San Ignacio #364 e/ Muralla y Teniente Rey, Plaza Vieja, Habana Vieja [email protected] (+53) 5 4031 568: (53) 7 8366 567 www.havanabohemia.com Cañaveral House 5+ TOP PICK Facilities Rooms Ambience Value Best for Large elegant villa away from downtown Havana. Great for families or groups of friends. Don’t Miss Basking in the sun as you stretch out on the lawn of the beautifully kept garden. 39A street, #4402, between 44 y 46, Playa, La Habana Cuba (+53) 295-5700 http://www.cubaguesthouse.com/canaveral.home. html?lang=en Rosa D’Ortega 5+ TOP PICK BOUTIQUE VILLA Facilities Rooms Ambience Value Best for Large elegant villa away from the bustle of downtown Havana. Gracious hosts, beautiful rooms. Don’t Miss Exploring the off-the-beaten track neighbourhood. Patrocinio #252 esq. a Juan Bruno Zayas, 10 de Octubre (+53) 7-641-43-29 / (+53) 5-263-3302 http://www.larosadeortega.com contents July 2015 PAGE 68 THANK YOU Wishes to thank all of the following entities for their support and involvement with What’s On Havana. Center for Cuban Studies / Cuban Art Space