COMPONENTS OF A KOLHAPURI CHAPPAL

Amanpreet Kaur
Ambika Acharya
Anjana Kujur
Ankita Rajamohan
Avani Birla
Bhavika Gohil
Chhavi Gulati
Hinal Bilakhia
Mayyee Lew
Rajasi Datar
Siddhi Vartak
Shradha Sharma
HISTORY
• First made during the reign of Shahu Maharaj where
artisans were encouraged to make the best variety of
chappals for the king
• Previously
known
as
Kapashi, Paytaan, Kachkadi, Bakkalnali, and Pukari
• In 1920 the Saudagar family developed an indigenous
design of chappal which was thinner than the original
and had 2 side flaps, which gave it the name "Kanwali"
• It was sent to Bombay and was noticed by J.J. &
Sons in the Prarthana Samaj neighbourhood in South
Mumbai
• They ordered 20 pairs of new designs of Kanwalis and
sold them in Bombay
• The increased demand for Kanwalis had prompted
Saudagar family to teach the skill of making
these chappals in the villages in Kolhapur
• Later J.J and Sons got an order from Calcutta where it
became more famous and further increased its popularity
J.J. & SONS
COMPONENTS OF A KOLHAPURI CHAPPAL
Die
PRODUCT RANGE
MEN
WOMEN
KIDS
Kapshi
Chepli
Bachkani Zarigonda
Kurundawadi
Mayuri
Pawda
Bantu
Braided
Shahu
Angutha Patta
MANUFACTURING PROCESS
TANNING
(LEATHER MAKING)
MAKING PROCESS
(CHAPPAL MAKING)
PACKAGING AND
DISTRIBUTION
I. TANNING PROCESS – BAG TANNING
Tapashe Tannery, Jawahar Nagar, Kolhapur (1974)
Procurement of Raw
Skins from
Slaughterhouses
Skins are cut and
treated with salt in
order to remove water
and blood for about 1-2
days
The treated skins are
then rubbed with
Choona continuously
for 15 days in order to
ensure removal of hair
and inside flesh
The Choona treated
skins are then washed
in fresh water followed
by cold water in tanks
The washed and
cleaned skins are then
treated with Babool Sal
and Hirda (natural
ingredients used in
medicines) which are
dried and powdered
Treatment with Babool
Sal and Hirda is carried
out by tying the washed
skins into bags and
hanging the same from
wooden rods dipped
into solution of the
same for 4 days
The bags are then
reverse hung on the
wooden rods and
dipped in the solution
of Babool Sal and
Hirda for another 4
days (This causes even
colouring of the skins)
The skins are then
removed from the bags
and then treated with
water for another 4
days after which they
are sundried for 1-3
days
Once the skins are
ready, they are sold to
manufacturers by the
weight (One sheet
weighting 6-7kgs is
usually sold at Rs.
1200-1500
II. CHAPPAL MAKING PROCESS
(A.) SOLE/BOTTOM MAKING
SKIVING
•
•
Leather is soaked in water
for 30 mins and washed
manually
Skiving knives (Raapi) help
in trimming the thickness of
leather and (Kurpa)
smoothening the leather
ATTACHMENT OF
EARS, UPPER BOTTOM
AND HEELS:
PATTERN MARKING &
CUTTING
•
•
Plastic stencils in different
shoe sizes are used to mark
pattern outline
Raapi is used to cut the pattern
along this marked outline
•
Goat eather used for ears. Stencils
are used for marking and cutting
the upper bottom (facial skin of
cow/buffalo)
STITCHING
•
Stitching is done manually
with the help of nylon threads
•
Cobbler needle is dipped in
bees wax for easy penetration
•
Not only holds the sole
together and makes it stronger
but also adds to its aesthetic
appeal
POLISHING
FINISHING
•
Cutting of excess thread
•
Stencil is placed on the
sole and re-measured and
excess leather area is
marked and cut
•
Cleaner edge
•
•
•
•
Two step process
Application with the help of a
brush
The pigments are generally
yellow, orange or black
Black color is mixed with
kerosene and applied
(B.) STRAP/ PATTA MAKING
PATTERN CUTTING &
DRYING
•
Goat or sheep leather
•
Stencils are used to mark the
patta pattern and the leather is
then cut with Raapi
•
Drying under sunlight for a few
hours
PREPARATION OF VARIOUS PARTS
•
Depending on the design, various parts are cut and
additional parts like toe strap, veni strip is prepared
•
After drying, layers of leather is added and hammered
depending on the desired thickness of the patta
•
Sheep skin in generally used for making the veni
(plaited strips of leather)
STITCHING &
DECORATION
PUNCHING &
TRIMMING
•
Punching tools (dies) used
to create various patterns
•
Excess leather is trimmed
with Raapi
•
•
Machine stitching. Strap is
decorated using golden
threads and/or a red gonda
Veni is attached. Strap is
allowed to set for a day
POLISHING
•
straps are polished with
the same color mixture as
the base of the chappal
•
It is set aside to dry
completely and is ready
for assembling
(C.) ASSEMBLING AND FINAL FINISHING
ASSEMBLING
•
All components such as the bottoms, patta
and toe straps are carefully collected for a
particular design
•
Markings on upper bottoms helps in
insertion of straps
FINAL FINISHING
•
Final polishing and final touches like
cutting of excess leather or
thread, addition of extra attachments
etc.
•
Quality Inspection
III. PACKAGING AND DISTRIBUTION
• The finished chappals are packed together in a set of four to five pairs in plastic
bags which is then tied together using a nylon thread.
• These sets are then placed in a gunny bag and are sent to retailers.
• No distinct packaging for different manufacturers in terms of a distinct bag with
a logo, brand name or manufacture details.
• Thus all the manufacturers pack and distribute chappals in the same way.
SUPPLY CHAIN
•
•
•
•
•
The order for Kolhapuri chappals is received by
retailers from the customers through whatsapp
and then forwarded to the manufacturers.
Raw materials are sourced from local tanneries
or from outside areas like Chennai
Local artisans then convert raw materials into
finished chappals either in the confines of their
homes or in workshops.
These chappals may not always be sent to the
stores directly but maybe stored in the godown
for a couple of days
The chappals are transported through tempos
and auto rickshaws to the retail stores locally
and through buses outside of Kolhapur
Major Suppliers
CURRENT SCENARIO
ASSOCIATION
•
•
•
•
Funds
Sizing
Product Differentiation
Packaging
CRAFTSMEN
• Tools
• Working Hours
• Inheritance
ARTISAN SURVEY
•
•
Artisan survey was conducted comprising of sample size - 50
Helped in understanding and gaining an insight on artisan’s personal
background, skills and work experience
Name: Sudarshan
Age: 28 yrs
Education Qualification:
5th pass
Work Experience: 14 years
Skills: Known to all the required
skills
Supplying to: Local Retailers –
Jawar Footwear , Brinda Store
Name: Sundar Yadav
Age: 41yrs
Education Qualification: 5th pass
Work Experience: 16yrs
Skills: Good with Patta making &
pasting& Known to all the required
skills
Supplying to: Local Retailers –
Revaz Footwear , Online Retailer
- Women trendz
Name: Santhram Jyoti
Age: 75 yrs
Education Qualification:
4th pass
Work Experience – 30 yrs
Skills - Known to all the required
skills - skiving,
stitching,polishing etc..
Supplying to - Local retailers Shamal Footwear, Pooja Footwear
RETAILER SURVEY
RETAILER
SURVEY
20 Retailers in the Shivaji Market area of Kolhapur were interviewed and questions regarding when the store
was founded, by whom, the proprietor's educational background, where the supply is procured from, the other
stores/countries products are sent to, collection, size standards used etc.
Name: Pawan V. Powar
Store: Charmkar Samaj
Audhyogik Sahakari Mandal
Products: 100% Kolhapuri
Pairs Sold/Month: 700-800
Supply From: 200 artisans
Supply To:
Delhi, Pune, Mahabaleshwar and
UAE
Name: Balkrishna Gawali
Store: Tip Top Footwear
Products: 80% Kolhapuri, 20%
Jaipuri
Pairs Sold/Month: 400-500
Supply From: Association
Supply To:
Mumbai, Pune, UAE, UK, Chap
pers.com
Name: P.B.Rote
Store: Rashtriya Footwear
Products: 40% Kolhapuri, 60%
All weather footwear
Pairs Sold/Month: 450-600
Supply From: Workshop
Supply To: Its own brances in
Kolhapur
CUSTOMER SURVEY
FREQUENCY OF PURCHASE
40%
35%
30%
25%
20%
15%
10%
5%
0%
29%
PREFERENCE
34%
17%
20%
14%
23%
3%
30
25
PRICES
20
15
250-500
14%
29%
10
5
57%
500-1000
0
26
60%
Durability
Price
Design
PROBLEMS FACED
28
24
20
20
22
CUSTOMER SURVEY
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
SUGGESTIONS
New and different designs
New color-lines
Standardized sizing
Mention sizes on the footwear
Proper finishing
Softer leather to avoid shoebites
Uniform prizing
PROJECT 1
I. CODING AND
LABELING
II. PACKAGING
III. SIZE STANDARDIZATION
I a. CODING OF STYLES & COLOURS
Creation of a set of standardized codes for the basic traditional styles of
Kolhapuri Chappals for Men and Women
Objectives
• To facilitate placement of orders
• To create an organized form of
classification for computerized systems
Need
• From the manufacturer’s end – Retailers
can place orders from manufacturers using
standard option codes
• From the retailer’s end – Customers and
other retailers can identify various options
using their codes and simplifying the
ordering process
I a. CODING OF STYLES & COLOURS
Format of Coding:
GENDER
M- Men, W- Women
Example:
ORIGIN
KC - Kolhapuri
Chappal
MKCMA05
M – Men
KC – Kolhapuri Chappal
MS – Maharaja Shahu
06 – Maroonish Brown
STYLE
MA -Maharaja, KU Kurundawadi, TT Teen Taddi.., similarly
for other styles
WKCEV10
W – Women
KC – Kolhapuri Chappal
EV – Ek Veni
10 – Skin
COLOR
01 -Brown, 02 -Light
Brown.. similarly for
other colors
I b. LABELING
MKCMA05
Need For Labeling:
• Promotional activity
• Quality Assurance
• Convenience in classification
and
identification on
manufacturer’s , retailer’s and
consumer’s end
The Label would consist of the Kolhapuri Chappal
Logo and the style code. It would be attached to
the toe strap as illustrated above
II. PACKAGING
Objective
• To prevent damage
• To use it as promotional tool
Both from - Manufacturer’s end and Retailer’s end
Problem Area
• Poor quality of packaging from manufacturer’s end
• Poorly stored by retailers, resulting in growth of fungus
• Lacks organized manner of stocking, resulting in mixing of the
Chappal sizes
• Lacks aesthetic appeal
Traditional Packaging
II. PACKAGING
Proposed Packaging
Proposed Solution
• Usage of draw strings bags for each pair of Kolhapuri chappal
• Prevention of product damage
• It will comprise of proposed logo, thus acts as an promotional
tool
• Usage of cartons for shipment instead of gunny bags
Sr No.
Material/Activity
Cost (In Rs.)
1
Cloth Drawstring Bags (Wholesale)/Unit
2-3
2
Printing of the Logo onto the Bags/Unit
1-2
Total Cost of Packaging for a Single Unit
3
Cartons for Shipment/Unit
Total Cost of Packaging for 50 Pairs Contained in a Single Carton
3-5
30
180-280
III. SIZE STANDARDIZATION
Problem
• Kolhapuri chappals are handcrafted, there
are generally sizing problems associated
with them
• Artisans use plastic soles to get the
desirable size while others use fingers and
hand for sizing
Reason for Inconsistency
• Leather cut in shape when in the wet
condition
• The size of the ‘Angutha’, which is either
too to tight or too loose to the wearer
• the use hand and fingers to achieve the
desirable sizes
III. SIZE STANDARDIZATION
Proposed Solution
•
•
•
Incorporate sizing measurements used by Bata
Standard stencils or plastic soles of different sizes should be made
available to the artisans
Design templates for sole, insole, half sole, instep bar, toe ring etc.
should be provided as guide for marking, in order to achieve finishing
The chart alongside is
the standard size chart
used by Bata.
A similar chart should be
provided to artisans.
PROJECT 2
DEVELOPING A MODEL FOR AN ASSOCIATION
I. FUND RAISING
II. ALLOCATION OF FUNDS
III. MONITORING AND EVALUATION
DEVELOPING A MODEL FOR AN ASSOCIATION
• Objectives:
– To develop a model for standardizing the manufacturing
process for a particular association
– To evaluate the performance of an association and further
implementing it to all the associations
• Steps in Model:
Fund
Raising
• Approach
corporates
• CSR budgets
Allocation of
Funds
• Product
Development
• Artisan Welfare
• Marketing &
Promotions
Monitoring &
Evaluation
• Investors
• Association
• Artisans
PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
Mobile Cover
Coaster
Bottle Holder
Book Cover
Knife Cover