the rest of the article - SSBC Performance Brake Systems
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427 cubes...585 horses
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DISPLAY UNTIL 11/14/2005
VOLUME 3, ISSUE 12
TECHNICAL SSBC Force 10 Brake Upgrade
SSBC Force 10 Brake Upgrade
POWER BINDERS ARE JUST THE TICKET FOR THIS TRACK CAR, AND WILL GET THE
JOB DONE ON YOUR STREET PONY AS WELL
text by Mike Gallagher / photography by Kevin and Mike Gallagher
When building a race car you never quite know what you need until
you hit the track. Since this was the maiden year for the Evolution
Motorsport entry into the OH/IN American Iron series (EvM AI 2005),
the EvM team quickly found that out. Obviously they had done their
homework and managed to build up what seems to be a competitive car.
To be more specific, they built a 1995 Ford Mustang outfitted with a host
of aftermarket product sponsorships and EvM’s own components. In its
final form, the car seemed to take to the track quite well during testing.
However, by the time the second race came around it was apparent that
the EvM AI 2005 Race Car needed a brake upgrade.
TECHNICAL SSBC Force 10 Brake Upgrade
The car was initially setup with Cobra
brakes and rotors, front and rear, outfitted
with a set of Performance Friction race
pads. During a weekend of racing they
started losing pedal on the Sunday race.
When you can’t stop, you tend to slow
down. Time for new brakes.
For the brake upgrade EvM contacted
their friends at Stainless Steel Brakes
(SSBC) to see if they could help out. SSBC
offers brake kits for pretty much anything
with wheels. They recommended their
FORCE 10 Tri-Power brake kit (A112-11)
for the front and their rear disc brake
conversion kit (A112-4) for the rear.
The front kit consists of a set of 13x1inch rotors and three-piston aluminum
calipers. The rear kit consists of a 12-inch
rotor and two-piston aluminum caliper.
EvM opted for the orange powdercoat to
match the car. To that end, SSBC offers a
host of finishes and powdercoat colors.
A nice touch regardless of what your
With the recommendation of SSBC
and the product on the doorstep, the
upgrade went into high gear. Luckily a
brake install is not that difficult in the
grand scheme of things. A full Sunday
was allotted to the install, and proved
to be more than enough time.
Nothing special was needed in the
tool department other than the standard
brake-work fare—jack, jackstands, DOT-4
brake fluid, lug wrench, brake cleaner,
torque wrench, tube wrenches, metric
socket set, wrench set and a mallet.
With the tools and supplies in hand,
the work started by tackling the front
Front Brake Removal
1. Begin by raising the front of the
vehicle until the wheels and tires clear
the floor, then support the vehicle on
jackstands and remove the tire and wheel
assemblies from the car.
2. Using a tube wrench, remove the
hollow banjo bolt that secures the end
of the flexible brake hose to the caliper.
Have a catch can ready to receive the
brake fluid which will flow out.
3. With the hose removed, the caliper
can be taken off by removing the two
14mm bolts that hold the caliper bracket
to the spindle. Save these bolts, as they
will be reused later.
4. With the caliper removed, the rotor will
simply slide off the hub. The new calipers
and rotors can now be installed.
“Nothing special was
needed in the tool
than the standard
brake fluid, lug wrench,
brake cleaner, torque
wrench, tube wrenches,
metric socket set,
wrench set and a
Installation Of Rotors And Calipers
1. Slide the rotor into position on the
lug studs and secure with at least one
2. The calipers are sent as complete
assemblies ready to be installed. Slide the
caliper into position over the rotor and
line it up with the holes in the spindle.
Secure the assembly using the 12mm
bolts and lockwashers supplied. Torque
to 65 lb-ft.
3. Attach the supplied flex lines to the
caliper using the banjo bolt and copper
4. Attach the other end to the frame
rail bracket and secure using the original
clip. Torque the banjo bolt to 25 lb-ft and
tighten the tube fitting on the frame end
using a tube wrench.
That’s it. The fronts are done. With
all the hardware bolted on, all that was
needed was to turn the wheels lock-tolock to make sure there would be no
interference or twisting of the flex lines.
For a final sanity check, the rotors were
turned by hand to make sure they spun
freely and did not interfere with any other
components. If the caliper is not centered
over the rotor, it may be necessary to place
some of the supplied shims between the
spindle and the caliper bracket. In this
case, no shims were needed.
SSBC Force 10 Brake Upgrade TECHNICAL
Evolution Motorsport (EvM), a leading player in specialized
suspension and chassis stiffening components, has taken its
technology and innovation to the track. EvM burst onto the
aftermarket scene in early 2002, and within six months won
a SEMA award in the Street—Performance category with their
Mustang Watts Link System. For 2005, EvM is taking their
innovation to the track by way of the NASA American Iron Racing
Series with a 1995 Mustang GT. They are campaigning their 1995
Mustang GT through the races of the Ohio/Indiana Region of the
NASA American Iron Series.
Rear Brake Removal
1. As with the front, begin by raising the
rear of vehicle until the wheels and tires
clear the floor, then support the vehicle
on jackstands and remove the tire and
wheel assemblies from the car.
2. Next, remove the calipers. First,
disconnect the flexible brake line by
removing the banjo bolt from the
3. Remove the two bolts that secure
the caliper to the axle. Lift the caliper
away from the rotor and disconnect the
parking brake cable.
4. Slide the rotor off the hub.
Caliper Mounting Bracket &
1. The caliper mounting brackets are
the same for left and right, and will
bolt to the two holes already in the
factory bracket pointing towards the
2. The mounting brackets bolt to the
outboard side of the factory bracket
and should be orientated so the
bracket steps in away from the hub.
Secure the brackets using the nuts,
bolts, and lock washers supplied.
Torque to 65-70 lb-ft.
3. Slide the brake rotors onto the hubs
and secure in place with two lug nuts.
Sidebar Stainless Steel Brakes
Corporation (SSBC) first pioneered the
stainless steel sleeved caliper for classic
Corvettes and Mustangs in 1975. They are
now the industry standard for high quality
brake systems and components. They offer
a complete line of disc brake conversions
and performance brake upgrades for
classic musclecars, late-model performance
cars, street rods and customs, trucks/SUVs
and sport compacts. In both 1999 and
2000, SSBC was honored with awards
in the Best New Product category at the
annual SEMA Show. They followed that
with winning prestigious GM SEMA Design
Awards in 2003 and 2004. SSBC is always
adding new applications, so if they don’t
have it now, they probably will soon.
TECHNICAL SSBC Force 10 Brake Upgrade
Caliper and Flex Hose
1. The calipers received from SSBC
came loaded with the pads and ready
2. Slide the calipers into place over
the rotors and secure with the supplied
12mm bolts. The parking brake levers
should be on the bottom and the
bleeder screws should be pointing up.
Torque the bolts to 80 lb-ft.
3. Connect the original flex hoses to
the calipers using the banjo bolts and
supplied copper washers. Torque to 2030 lb-ft.
“After an hour or so,
the rear brakes were
After an hour or so, the rear brakes
were installed. Normally, the final
step for the rear brakes would involve
connecting the parking brake cables
(not needed on this race car). With
both front and rears done, all that was
left to do was bleed the brakes, top
off the master cylinder and make sure
the wheels still spun freely and did not
interfere with any brake components.
We started the race season with the 19961998 Cobra brake system on the car. This
setup is great on the street, but proved to
have some difficulties managing the heat
generated from the repeated high-g stops
on the race track. After the change to the
SSBC Tri-Power brakes, the brake fade was
reduced and the performance was more
consistent. The front-to-rear balance was
good right out of the box, and we used the
SSBC adjustable rear proportioning valve to
fine-tune the amount of rear braking. We
are still experimenting with pad compounds
and brake ducting to handle the severe
duty of the racing application, but the SSBC
Tri-Power kit has provided the hardware
necessary to drive the race car deep into
every braking zone.
STAINLESS STEEL BRAKES