book tecnico-Htexture

The World
of
Form
technical book
THE FORMING SERVICE
Has always been a hairstylist’s best ally. Thanks to its capability to temporarily or permanently reform hair texture, this
technical service is an important part of a salon’s business.
Index
Fashion trends are in transformation and, from strong cuts and colors, fashion is evolving to “ready to wear” styles, which
are softer, more linear or multitextured.
The Form
Today we offer a variety of new forming service opportunities designed to fulfil the dream of every woman: Simplifying
everyday styling.
Introduce your clients to the new hair forming services with Hydra Texture, the ultimate transformation system, or with
Garantie, the alkaline permanent by ALFAPARF Milano.
Hydra Texture
The Hair Forming Services
· THE STRUCTURE OF THE HAIR
4
· THE TRANSFORMATION OF THE HAIR STRUCTURE
4
TEMPORARY FORMING
4
PERMANENT TRANSFORMATION
5
· TECHNICAL TOOLS
5
· AN INNOVATIVE SYSTEM
6
· AN INNOVATIVE FORMULA
8
· WAVING
DIRECTIONS
10
CHEMICALLY TREATED/DAMAGED HAIR
10
LEAVE-IN TIME
10
TIPS
11
DIRECTIONS
12
Cold straightening
12
Hot straightening
12
To reduce volume
13
To touch up the new-growth
13
CHEMICALLY TREATED/DAMAGED HAIR
13
LEAVE-IN TIME
13
TIPS
13
DIRECTIONS
14
TIPS
14
· STRAIGHTENING
· MULTITEXTURE
Questions and Answers
15
The Dialogue with the Client
Garantie
16
THE FORMULA
17
THE SYSTEM
17
PROCESS
18
The Shape
PERMANENT TRANSFORMATION
The hydrogen bonds allow us to temporarily modify the hair's shape (from straight to curly and vice versa), until the hair
comes in contact with water once again (as well as in humid environments).
However, other bonds exist whose bonds are much more difficult to break. These are disulphide bonds that are
responsible for the hair's permanent shape.
These bonds can be interrupted through the use of sulphuric substances or thioglycolate ions that change the S-S bond
into a SH bond.
· THE STRUCTURE OF THE HAIR
The hair is made up of various chemical substances:
28% Proteins
2% Lipids
32% Water
S
The most predominant protein in the hair is keratin (85-90% of the hair's total weight).
Keratin is a protein made up of polypeptide chains that are extremely rich in cysteine.
The main elements that make up keratin are: Carbon, hydrogen, oxygen, nitrogen and sulfur.
In lesser quantitites: Calcium, copper, cadmium, mercury, zinc, lead, iron, arsenic, silicon, vanadium, sodium and potassium.
S
S
S
SH
SH
SH
SH
SH
With the aide of the appropriate instrument, the protein chains can be separated from each other. Then, thanks to the use
of a solution rich in Hydrogen, we can reconstruct the disulphide bridges and “set” the hair definitively with its new shape.
Proteins
S
S
S
S
S
Lipids
04
05
Water
·
· THE WORK INSTRUMENTS
THE TRANSFORMATION OF THE HAIR STRUCTURE
TEMPORARY FORMING
The keratin chains are “linked” together through various bonds that guarantee the solidity and continuity of the hair while
ensuring its health. The bonds of hydrogen, for example, are the easiest to “break” and they are in fact resposible for the
temporary changes in shape.
The hydrogen bonds are easily broken in the presence of water or high temperatures and they are later reunited in their new
form through the use of appropriate instruments.
For example, by wetting the hair and blow drying it straight with a brush, the hydrogen bonds are re-arranged into a new
straight shape. This new shape will last until the hair comes in contact with water once again (or with any other similar
element) which will break this union and bring the hair back to its original form.
H
H
H
H
So now we know how to permanently change the shape of the hair.
We've seen how chemistry provides us with the necessary instruments for “breaking” and “reuniting” the bridges and how
mechanics offers us the possibility to give hair a new shape through the use of special instruments.
Therefore, mechanics is responsible for defining the new shape. For this reason various special instruments are available
on the market today: strips of plastic material for extending and obtaining straight results; rollers in various forms and
different dimensions. It is the dimension of the roller that determines the dimension of the curl.
Therefore it's clearly very important which mechanical instrument is selected and how it is used.
The various positions, angles and methods used for wrapping the hair, will result in different shapes that we can offer our clients.
DEPENDING ON THE DIAMETER OF THE ROLLER OR
PERM ROD, WE WILL OBTAIN A MORE OPEN OR
CLOSED WAVE.
THE DISTANCE OF THE ROD FROM THE ROOT WILL DETERMINE THE VOLUME AT THE BASE OF THE HAIR AND THE
BEGINNING OF THE WAVE.
An Innovative System
New, easy, flexible permanent transformation system.
Only 4 products for creating curly, straight or multitexture hair,
without varying strength formulas and with total security.
Ultimate Transformation System
1
2
· SHAPE
· PROTECT
3
· FINISH
06
07
The ultimate system dedicated to form
creates new service business for your
salon. Introduce your clients to the
transformation service!
Movement
Straighten
Miracle Serum
Neutralizer
Waving Lotion
Relaxing Cream
Active Restructuring Concentrate
Neutralizzante
Fluid perfect for creating
waves or curls using
rods.
Cream for smoothing,
straightening or reducing
curl volume.
For mixing with Hydra Texture
Movement Waving Lotion or
Straighten Relaxing Cream in order
to restructure and protect hair during
the processing time.
Recreates the hair's texture,
leaving it beautifully
conditioned and shining.
Mixing ratio: 1 vial for every
100g./3,38 Oz. of product.
Flacon 500ml/16,90 Fl.Oz
(5/7 applications)
Tube 300ml/10,58 Oz.
(2/3 applications)
Box 6 vials 10ml/0,33 Fl Oz. each
Flacon 1000ml/33,81 Fl.Oz.
(10 applications)
! NO MORE PRODUCTS OF VARYING
! A SINGLE NEUTRALIZER FOR ALL
Every time you wave, straighten or multitexture treated or
damaged hair, you just need to remember to add the contents
of a vial to the Movement Waving Lotion or Straighten
Relaxing Cream. By doing so, you'll have created the ideal
product for this type of hair.
Thanks to its technology, Hydra Texture Neutralizer can be
used during waving, straightening and multitexture services.
Even in the last, you can neutralize all the hair in a single quick
and easy application.
STRENGTHS
TEXTURE SERVICES
WAVING · natural/resistant hair
An Innovative Formula
· PROMOIS®
Natural Micro-Sponges are at the heart of the Hydra Texture System. Thanks to their absorption capability, the
Micro-Sponges are able to retain water (which represents 32% of the hair's structure) within the hair and, with it,
the active ingredients reponsible for breaking the sulphur bonds.
This allows Hydra Texture to excel in two importance performances:
A · To be able to carry out MULTITEXTURE SERVICES, that is, to straighten and wave hair on the same head
simultaneously.
It is, in fact, the Micro-Sponges contained within the Hydra Texture Straighten Relaxing Cream or Movement Waving
Lotion that carry within them the active ingredients, which allow the two formulas to be used without one interfering
with the other during processing time (fig.1).
A · Recognizes damaged areas and repairs them, recinstructing the
protein bonds (fig. 5);
B · Creates a protective film along the hairshaft that prevents protein loss
and reinforces the hair's structure (fig. 6).
In this manner, treated and damaged hair is ready to receive a new
texture in total safety.
B · To guarantee NON-STOP HYDRATION during the entire service.
During the chemical process of waving or relaxing, the hair tends to lose a major part of the water of which it's
composed. The result is hair that's dull, dry, weakened (fig. 2).
The Micro-Sponges seal water inside the hair, creating a constantly hydrated microenvironment (fig. 3) that allows
the hair to respond optimally to any structural change, remaining in perfect health, shiny and conditioned (fig. 4).
fig. 1
fig. 4
fig. 3
fig. 2
Micro-Sponges
Relaxing Cream
Healthy hair
Hydrated hair
Micro-Sponges
Waving Lotion
fig. 5
Promois®
Dry, weak hair
08
Contained in Miracle Serum Active Restructuring Concentrate
Promois® is an active agent that causes a double action in the
hair:
fig. 6
Hydra Texture · usage table
· MICRO-SPONGES
WAVING · treated/damaged hair
09
RELAXING · natural/resistant hair
RELAXING · treated/damaged hair
TIPS
Forming Services
· WAVING
DIRECTIONS
10
· Wash and towel dry the hair.
· Proceed with the application of the rollers, in accordance with the
chosen technique.
Depending on the diameter of the perm rod, we will obtain a more
open or closed wave. The distance of the rod from the root will
determine the volume at the base of the hair and the beginning of the wave.
· When the rollers are in position, apply Hydra Texture MovementWaving Lotion to each roller with the ALFAPARF Milano applicator
bottle, being sure not to apply the fluid direclty onto the scalp.
· Process Waving Lotion for the necessary time (see the section
“Leave-in time”).
· Rinse hair thoroughly with warm water and towel dry.
· Apply the Hydra Texture Neutralizer with the ALFAPARF Milano
applicator bottle, roller by roller.
· Process Neutralizer for 5 minutes.
· Remove the rollers without stretching the hair.
· Re-apply the Neutralizer throughout the hair, especially on the ends.
· Leave in for another 5 minutes.
· Rinse thoroughly and towel dry the hair.
CHEMICALLY TREATED/DAMAGEG HAIR
· In the special applicator bottle, add one vial of Hydra Texture Miracle
Serum-Active Restructuring Concentrate to every 100ml/3,38 Fl.Oz. of
Hydra Texture Movement-Waving Lotion. Apply this waving solution to
every rollers, being sure to saturate them thoroughly.
PROCESSING TIME
Natural/resistant hair: 15-20 minutes
Treated/damaged hair: 8-10 minutes
ACCESSORIES:
· Rollers
· Roller paper
· Clips (to avoid the “bar” effect caused by the
roller band)
· Cotton strips
· Tail comb
· Disposable gloves
· Non-metal clips
· Disposable cape
· ALFAPARF Milano applicator bottle
· Hydra Texture Movement Waving Lotion
· Hydra Texture Miracle Serum Active
Restructuring Concentrate
· Hydra Texture Neutralizer
· To ensure the best possible neutralization, always start from
the rollers at the nape of the neck and work towards the front
of the head.
· Make sure that the elastic bands on the rollers do not leave a
mark on the hair (especially in the front area). If necessary, use
plastic pins to separate the elastic from the rolled hair.
· To be certain that the proper leave-in time has been reached,
remove one roller and push in lightly on the strand of hair. If
the hair curls into itself (gives S formation) the leave-in time
has been reached. If not, leave in for a few more minutes.
· For uniform curly results on very long hair, before putting the
rollers in, apply the Hydra Texture Movement - Waving Lotion
to the ends, or use a double roller technique.
· To restore hair color: Immediately after rinsing out the
neutralizer, apply the selected nuance of Color Wear to damp
hair. Leave in for 10 minutes. Rinse thoroughly with warm
water, wash and proceed with styling.
· For Multitexture treatments, always keep in mind that the
leave-in times for waving are less than those required for
straightening.
11
CAUTIONS:
· Do not perform on irritated or abrased scalps.
· Do not perform if the hair has been previously
treated with colors with a base of metallic salts,
straightening products with a base of Sodium
Hydroxide or other components (Lithium
Hydroxide, Potassium Hydroxide, Calcium
Hydroxide or with Guanidine Carbonate).
· Always perform a strand test before applying.
· Do not apply the product to hair that is
bleached 40% or more.
ACCESSORIES:
· STRAIGHTENING
DIRECTIONS
COLD STRAIGHTENING > for natural straight hair
12
· Wash and towel dry the hair.
· Divide the hair into 4 sections, from ear to ear and from the center of the
forehead to the center of the nape of the neck. Put Hydra Texture
Straighten-Relaxing Cream into a non-metal bowl.
· Begin applying from the back right section.
· Select a section of hair, about 1-2 cm thick, and apply the cream with the aide
of a brush (being sure to maintain a distance of 1.5/2 cm from the roots).
· Distribute evenly onto the entire section (if necessary with the aide of a
wide tooth comb).
· Massage with the hands in a straightening motion.
· Put the section onto the special Hydra Texture strip to keep the hair well extended.
· Continue by applying all over the hair.
· Leave in for the previously determined time (see the section “Leave-in time”)
· When the leave-in time is over, rinse thoroughly with warm water until all
of the straightening cream has been eliminated.
· Eliminate excess water with a towel.
· Apply Hydra Texture Neutralizer with the aide of the ALFAPARF Milano
applicator bottle.
· Leave-in for 10 minutes
· Rinse thoroughly and towel dry the hair.
· Proceed with drying.
HOT STRAIGHTENING > for hightly compact straightness
· Maximum long-lasting straightening created for those who love extreme
results for hair that is always impeccable.
Follow the same steps as listed for cold straightening till rinse.
Before applying the Hydra Texture Neutralizer:
· Spray Hydra Texture Heat Protector onto the hair.
· Gently dry the hair straight with a blow dryer and a hairbrush.
· Spray Hydra Texture Heat Protector onto the hair and pass a straightening iron.
· Apply Hydra Texture Neutralizer to the dry hair and leave in for 10 minutes
· Rinse hair thoroughly with warm water and proceed with styling.
TO REDUCE VOLUME
· Follow the same steps as listed for cold straightening, being sure to
reduce the estimated leave-in time in half.
Straightening strips ALFAPARF Milano
Non-metal clips and bowl
Brush
Wide tooth comb and a tail comb
Disposable gloves
Disposable cape
ALFAPARF Milano applicator bottle
Hydra Texture Straighten-Relaxing Cream
Hydra Texture Miracle Serum Active Restructuring
Concentrate
· Hydra Texture Neutralizer
For hot straightening:
· Blow dryer
· Hair brush
· Flat iron
· Hydra Texture Heat Protector-Dehydration Shield
·
·
·
·
·
·
·
·
·
TO TOUCH UP THE NEW-GROWTH
· Before performing a new treatment, be sure that there is at least 4 cm of re-growth (about 2/3 months).
Follow the normal application procedure, being sure to protect the hair that was previously straightened.
As with the usual procedure, begin applying at a distance of 1-1.5 cm from the root. For Hot Straightening, follow the
same procedure and use a straightening iron on all of the sections before applying the Neutralizer.
CHEMICALLY TREATED/DAMAGED HAIR
· For chemically/damaged treated hair, always add Miracle Serum-Active Restructuring Concentrate (dilution ratio: 1 vial
for every 100 gr/3,38 Oz. of cream) to the Hydra Texture Straighten-Relaxing Cream. If necessary, use the special
measurer cup to measure the cream. Each measurer cup holds 100gr/3,38 Oz. gr of product. Put the cream into a
non-metal bowl and blend together with the contents of a vial.
LEAVE-IN TIME
Normal/resistant hair: from 20 to 50 minutes
Treated/damaged hair: from 10 to 20 minutes
TIPS
CAUTIONS:
· Always perform a strand test before applying and,
based on the results, decide whether or not to
perform the straightening treatment.
· Do not peform the straightening treatment on
irritated or injured scalps
· Do not perform the straightening treatment on hair
that's been previously treated with colorants with
a base of metallic salts, straighteners with a base
of Sodium Hydroxide or other components
(Lithium Hydroxide, Postassium Hydroxide,
Calcium Hydroxide or with Guanidine Carbonate).
· Do not apply the product to hair that is more than
40% bleached.
· Wait 15 days from the application of a permanent
colorant before peforming a straightening
treatment (only on colorants made with hydrogen
peroxide from 10, 20 or a maximum of 30 vol.)
· Wait at least 15 days before applying a colorant
with a peroxide base (10, 20 or maximum 30 vol.)
on hair that has just been chemically straightened.
· Keep the hair straight and taut throughout the application. Use the special plastic strips while the straightening cream
is setting in the hair. After applying the neutralizer, comb through with a wide tooth comb.
· Straighten hair using your fingers during the processing time, section by section, being sure that the cream comes into
contact with all of the hair.
· To determine when the processing time has finished, test a 1/2 section of hair: remove the cream and make a knot in
the hair. If the knot “opens up”, continue the process. If the knot remains closed, the processing time is complete.
· Advise the client not to use rubber bands, hair bands, clips or barrettes until they have washed their hair at least once.
· To restore hair color, we recommend that you apply a selected nuance of Color Wear. After rinsing the Neutralizer, apply
Color Wear to wet hair and leave in for 10 minutes. Rinse the hair thoroughly with warm water, shampoo and proceed
with styling. Be sure to always keep the hair pulled straight and taut, even during the application of Color Wear.
· For the Multitexture treatment, keep in mind that the straightening time is longer than those required for waving.
13
· MULTITEXTURE
Hydra Texture offers you the opportunity to perform two different shaping treatments on the same head (waving
and straightening) quickly, easily and safely, giving life to new creative ideas, for absolute glamour and trendsetting looks. A new treatment that is sure to be a success, and a must have addition to your salon's list of
services.
DIRECTIONS
14
· Divide the hair into the various sections that are to be waved and straightened.
· Apply the rollers to the selected section. Wait before applying the Hydra Texture Movement-Waving Lotion.
· Prepare the selected section for the straightening process and proceed by following the relative application
directions.
· Once the application of the Hydra Texture Straighten-Relaxing Cream has been completed and, once the leave-in
times have been determined, apply the Hydra Texture Movement-Waving Lotion onto the rollers (keeping in mind
that the goal is to terminate the leave-in times of the straightening cream and the waving fluid at the same time, in
order to proceed with a single application of the neutralizer).
· Hydra Texture is specially formulated for a Multitexture treatment. Please keep in mind that the Hydra Texture
Straighten-Relaxing Cream will process longer than the Hydra Texture Movement-Waving Lotion, so it is always
recommended to apply the Straighten first, and adjust your Waving Lotion application and timing accordingly.
TIPS
· When performing a Multitexture treatment on chemically treated hair, it is suggested that you prepare the vial with
both mixtures (Movement-Waving Lotion plus Miracle Serum-Active Restructuring Concentrate and StraightenRelaxing Cream plus Miracle Serum-Active Restructuring Concentrate) to expedite the application time.
· When performing a multitexture process, rinse the Straighten-Relaxing Cream first. Don’t be concerned if the rinse
water “comes into contact” with the rollers; Hydra Texture was formulated for a single simultaneous rinse.
Questions and Answers
· Is Hydra Texture a permanent transformation system?
Yes, Hydra Texture changes the form of the hair in a permanent way.
· Can I use Hydra Texture on color treated hair?
Yes, but only on hair that was dyed with peroxide based colors (peroxide no greater than 30 vol).
· Can I use two different hair treatments, waving and straightening, at the same time?
Yes, Hydra Texture was formulated to create different shapes at the same time, on the same head of hair.
· What happens if, while performing a permanent on the upper section and a straightening treatment on
the lower section, the Hydra Texture Movement-Waving Lotion comes into contact with the Hydra Texture
Straighten-Relaxing Cream?
No problem. Both of these products (cream and lotion) are reducing agents and work to temporarily “break” the
disulphide bridges. During the application process, the Natural Micro-Sponges contained in the Hydra Texture
formula ensure healthy final results in the desired shape.
· Can I use Hydra Texture on hair that's already been chemically straightened?
No, if it was performed using products with a base of Sodium Hydroxide, Lithium Hydroxide, Calcium Hydroxide or
Guanidine Carbonate. If a straightener was applied with a base of Thioglycolate, Hydra Texture can be applied on
the re-growth, which must be at least 4 cm long. If there are doubts as to which type of straightener was previously
used, perform a strand test.
· Can I apply Hydra Texture Miracle Serum-Active Restructuring Concentrate directly onto the hair?
No. Miracle Serum was specially formulated to work in synergy with Hydra Texture Movement-Waving Lotion or with
Hydra Texture Straighten - Relaxing Cream. Miracle Serum is activated only and exclusively when it comes into
contact with one of these products.
· Can I use Hydra Texture in order to change the wave of excessively curly hair?
Yes you can: mix Hydra Texture Miracle Serum- Active Restructuring Concentrate with Hydra Texture StraightenRelaxing Cream (adding 1 vial of Serum to each 100 gr/.3,38 Oz. of Relaxing Cream).
· Can I use a permanent color or add highlights on the same day that Hydra Texture is used?
No, you must wait at least 15 days after the treatment is performed to avoid damaging the hair.
· Can I use Hydra Texture on hair that is bleached all over or on hair that is very fragile?
No, it cannot. For doubts on the results that can be obtained, always remember to perform a strand test first.
15
Communicating with Clients
It is very important to have a good rapport with your client.
WAVING SYSTEM
· THE FORMULA
Find out exactly what the client is expecting from the technical service:
· What will the hair's new texture be like?
· Is it a treatment with permanent results?
· Will it be necessary to use special daily blow-drying or styling techniques?
Protective and Care action: PC2 complex
is specifically formulated to function at the structural
level of the hair, providing a double action: to
protect pre-existing keratin bonds especially in
those highly porous areas and to reinforce
capillary keratin using essential amino acids.
During consultation of Hydra Texture service, you may want to use magazine photos to be sure that you
understand the result your client is looking for.
Ask the client about their everyday habits and about their hair routine:
· How many times do they wash their hair per week?
· What do they do after washing? If they style their hair, how do they do it and what tools do they use?
· If they use hair care and styling products, which ones do they use and why?
16
Explain exactly what the results of Hydra Texture will be:
· What will they have to do after washing, how to style their hair, blow dryer use how and when;
· How often they will have to repeat the forming service.
Point out the alternatives offered in terms of the results
· Details on all of the creative possibilities offered by Hydra Texture;
· What kind of hair color can be used following the treatment and when.
Let them know how long they will have to wait before using a color containing peroxide following the
application of the Hydra Texture treatment.
This information, together with a good technical service, will ensure excellent results for both you and
your client, and therefore total satisfaction.
Conditioning Action: PC2 complex is designed
to create a soft smooth barrier that provides
incredible shine and leaves the hair touchably soft.
Garantie is the alkaline permanent by
ALFAPARF Milano. Thanks to its special
PC2 active complex (protective, care and
conditioning complex) ensures long
lasting natural and elastic curls from roots
to ends, healthy and resistant hair,
providing an extraordinary softness and
brilliancy.
· THE SYSTEM
Garantie is available in 3 different formulations, for a custom
wave effect:
0 - Resistant hair
1 - Natural hair
2 - Treated hair
The single-dose kit includes Waving Lotion and Neutralizer.
17
The Permanent
PROCESS
3. Timing and rinse
In order to obtain a perfect waving effect, it is important to respect the following phases:
• After 3-5 minutes, check on the curl first. Then leave for 8 to 20 minutes according to the cases:
1 - Diagnosis and choice of waving lotion and perm rod.
2 - Shampoo, wrapping and saturation.
3 - Developing time and rinsing.
GARANTIE
LEAVE-IN TIME
0 - RESISTANT HAIR
15 - 20 MINUTES
1 - NATURAL HAIR
13 - 18 MINUTES
2 - TREATED HAIR
8 - 18 MINUTES
4 - Neutralization.
1. Diagnosis
First of all, it’s important analyze:
• Once obtained the required waving result, proceed with an accurate and prolonged rinse.
1 - The kind of hair: natural, colored or bleached
• Plug with a napkin.
2 - The porosity of hair
18
3 - The elasticity of hair
Thanks to this diagnosis, the stylist will be able to make the correct choice of waving lotion. Garantie is available in
three different formulations.
0 - Resistant hair
1 - Natural hair
2 - Treated hair
2. Shampoo, wrapping and saturation
• Make shampoo and plug the water in excess with a napkin.
• After choosing the most suitable perm rod (depending on the diameter of the perm rod, we will obtain a more open
or closed wave), proceed with wrapping. The distance of the rod from the root will determine the volume at the
base of the hair and the beginning of the wave.
• Apply some cotton along the hairline and saturate the wrapped hair meticulously by applying the waving lotion on
each single perm rod.
• Replace the cotton (only if it’s wet) and cover with a plastic cap in order to mantain uniform temperature.
4. Neutralization
• Apply the neutralizer on each perm rod saturating it thoroughly.
• Leave for 5 minutes, then gently and carefully remove the rods. Distribute the remaining neutralizer in order to
saturate the ends properly.
• Leave for another 5 minutes and rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water
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