Crash Course OOAK Secrets - Learn to Repaint Dolls From Masters

Crash Course OOAK Secrets
Compiled by Angela Purcell
Distribution of this digital book is prohibited in any shape or form. None of the pictures in
this book can be reproduced unless given written permission by owners. Results will vary
on an individual basis and are dependent on a multitude of variables such as current
knowledge and time invested applying the techniques. ©2015
Cover photo used with permission by contributing artists.
Table of Contents
Introduction
Special Guest Artists
Vincent Anthony
Javier Martin
Felina Canalis
AL'EXito 'S
Juan Albuerne
Luleemee
Lucy Gamova (AKA Hellfish)
Dawn Anderson
Loredana
Patt
Nikki Evans
Introduction
I‘ve been collecting dolls for over two decades. While I think various brands have their unique
selling points, Barbie has maintained her place as my favorite. I grew up with her (and her
friends) and was infatuated. My first two Barbie dolls were the 90s version Irish Barbie and
Shani doll. The Irish Barbie had the twinkle in her large green eyes, pretty porcelain colored
skin, fire engine red hair, and endearing smile. The Shani doll had large brown expressive eyes
(with sparkling twinkles), beautiful high, full cheekbones, a big bright beautiful smile, and
smooth dark skin. You can usually tell dolls tailored towards children because they have friendly
faces and bright smiles. When I was younger, I liked those kinds of faces. With age, I tend to
favor the more sophisticated, but paradoxically friendly facial expressions.
I, myself am not a (real) repaint artist. So, what prompted me to have this book written? I had a
very cool and inspired friend in China, who goes by the name of Veik on flickR, who has over
the years tried to convince me to get into repainting. I am sure many people have seen his
creations on Flickr and they are phenomenal. He never gives himself too much credit for how
creative and talented he is, or at least the awesomeness that channels through him, but that‘s
another story. He kept telling me for about 2 years to get into repainting after I made
observations about dolls and resemblances they have to real-life people. He seems to not be
online as much anymore, which is truly unfortunate, but we have shared enlightening
discussions that have ultimately contributed to this book being created.
Why haven‘t I tried with all this positive encouragement and support?! Well, repainting scared
the heck out of me! It seemed drastically different than drawing like I was used to. The feel of
the plastic and my hand trembling dissuaded me from going further. I was always so nervous
and wanted to get every detail ―perfect.‖ My first real OOAK attempt was of Raquel Welch. I
just wanted to get the lips, body (using clay), and eyes accurately... I removed all of the face
paint with acetone, but not the eyes (I only removed the crease and lid makeup). I also bought
fine quality brushes, pastels, paints, etc. But still, it felt so weird holding the brush. I find this
incredibly odd since I play the violin and am used to angling my hands in different ways…
Spain Barbie (2008) had the elongated insect-like eyes like Raquel, so I wanted to just remove
her eye makeup and give more of a smoky eye. And I wanted practice painting the lips nude
with an outer portion outliner. Like that 60s makeup that is still my favorite kind of makeup
style (dramatic eyes and nude everything else). I could of just used the first Barbie basics Lara
face sculpt to make my life a whole lot easier because then I would just need to give her a
smoky eye, but I wanted practice. I read a lot of information online, regarding repainting but
felt like something was missing to help give me confidence of where to begin. I purchased a
Fashionista pivotal body, so that I could pose her like the 1 Million BC Year movie poster and
tried my best with the first attempt. The steps completed were:

Removing the head from the doll‘s body using hot water (Protecting her hair by placing
her head in a plastic zip lock bag)

Removing lip paint and eye shadow with nail polish remover and q-tips

Placing doll‘s hair in a ponytail to shove hair back

Painting the color of her lips a nude peach color
Confession: That was all I did! I just stopped there and haven‘t returned back since. Here are some
photos for reference of where the phase started and stopped.
Unfortunately, I lost her through cleaning up my closet; she probably got thrown away by accident.
With all this happening, I still wondered if there were other people like me; people who really have
a passion and want to repaint, but want instructions that resonate with them – a starting place to
help guide them. This book gives a multitude of perspectives, so you should find at least one that
resonates. Pick a perspective that sticks the most and go with that one first. Then as your skills
progress, visit other perspectives to pick up a new insight.
The artists‘ order in this book was strategically chosen, i.e. Vincent Anthony‘s section appears
first because he gives excellent, basic advice to keep in mind as you read through the rest of the
artists‘ instructions. Javier Martin is second because he also gives general advice. The rest of the
artists go into more step-by-step details (Especially Lulemee , Loredana, and Lucy Gamova). You
have the touch of an artist inside you, so now is the time to bring it out! Everyone may look at the
same thing, but we all see something very different depending on our perspectives. It‘s so
fascinating! Soon, I plan to return back and knock out that 100 year BC replica of Raquel! If you
have questions or comments, please visit my page here: FANPAGE
Vincent Anthony
PRACTICE is key...practice on old doll heads or some play-line dolls that won‘t matter if they
become a bit 'over-worked'. Another key element to repainting is good brushes...ultra fine. I prefer
sable over synthetic and it must be at least 0/10 to 0/18...or the smallest size starting with
#2 down to triple 0. Also, there are a few brands I really enjoy using - e.g. 'Windsor Newton' and
'Loew Cornell' as well as 'Simmons' white sable, script or liner brushes. These retain a superb
point as long as you keep the amount of paint to a minimum.
Constant use of your brushes requires care and cleaning...if you're going to work steadily on your
practice models....you may need to replenish your brushes approx. 3-4 months or when the base
starts to fray or the outer hairs start to separate from the tip of your brush. Always keep a sharp
point to your brush while painting...load the smallest bit of paint onto your brush tip - roll the tip
against the back of your hand to test your application and start to work immediately.
The paint will dry very quickly as you'll be loading the smallest amount of pigment per
application.
When applying paint to your doll‘s facial sculpt, be sure to study the contours before starting.
Notice the eye sockets and the area where the liner will sit in relation to the bottom of the eye.
This will determine the over-all shape of the eye. Understanding the contours and sculpt will
ultimately help you with your painting and will ease you into each repaint with more confidence.
Sometimes, while painting...I will turn the doll upside down so the top of the head is toward my
work area and looking at her (or him) upside down helps see flaws like an uneven brow line or
unbalanced lips or even the size of both eyes if one is slightly 'off'. Remember, practice will be
your best tool in repainting.
Best Wishes always!!
Vin :)
Vincent Anthony Studio
Visit Vincent‘s FLICKR GALLERY
Javier Martin
My name is Javier and I when I was little I liked to draw Disney characters. I've always painted
throughout my life. My liking for doll repainting is very recent, a few months only. I started
repainting dolls because I have a small collection of figures from movies, TV series and I wanted
to include Angelina Jolie and Lady Gaga in my collection. Since their figures didn´t exist, I dared
to make them myself.
Then I discovered the magnificent works of Noel Cruz who was an inspiration for me and the first
Barbie I painted was an authentic disaster. I was about to give up though after several attempts it
started to become a little well and finally, one thing led me to another, and now I offer commission
work through my Facebook page - facebook.com/dollsrepaintjaviermartin - where I show
everything I do.
When I want to create a character, this is what I do…
1. The first thing I do is spend some time searching on the Internet to see if there is a doll who
has facial features similar to the character that I want to create. Paying attention particularly
to the jaw and nose shapes, forgetting hair and eyes because I can change them later.
Sometimes I don´t find the right head mold for the character that I want to do and have to
dismiss the idea. Because, if the head mold does not fit, it won´t have a strong enough
resemblance even when the paint work is perfect.
2. My favorite place to find dolls is on eBay. I search and download in high resolution, two or
three pictures of the character, actor or singer that I want to reproduce.
3. Before I start painting, I remove the original paint factory with a cotton ball soaked in nail
polish remover with acetone. I never swab twice. I use a cotton piece and throw it away.
4. I only use acrylic paints and a good fine brush. A 3/0 brush is fine.
I start to paint the eyes and eyebrow shapes. This step is very important.
Sometimes I make a mistake or do not like the result of the work and clean with a wet swab
in alcohol and even scrape with a stick.
5. Once I create the shape of the eyes I'm filling in, the next step is leaving finer details for the
end. The most important thing when you paint, is to observe, no matter if it´s a doll or any
other thing. Sometimes it is useful to turn the doll upside down and paint; I do this over a
floor tile, which acts as a paint palette. The texture of it makes it easy to clean. While doing
this, I have a water pot on the desk and this is where I rinse the brush and a piece of cloth or
a paper towel to dry it.
6. For hair I rather use saran. I like it for its brightness and it doesn´t tangle easily.
I thread a fine strand of hair and insert it until it comes out through the neck‘s hole. Then, I
hold the needle with a plier and pull it out, knotting the strand and using my fingers to pull
it out until the knot in the strand touches the internal head‘s area. I do this over and over to
fill all the head. It requires a lot of patience!
Then, to style hair, it‘s enough to pass it through very hot water, almost boiling water. If
you want to curl it, you can use small hair salon curlers.
This is my formula in a nutshell! I don´t know if it´s the best, but it works for me.
Some people use watercolor pencils and MSC varnish. It's a matter of tries and holding on
to what you like the most. It is a good idea to test on a low cost Barbie. I hope my
experience will have serve you as a motivation and help.
Below is a compilation of my works.
Felina Canalis
I usually work with Barbie, but I‘m starting to work on Fashion Royalty too. I like personalizing
dolls of my collection, or creating some ooaks. I make both reroot and repaint and I like sewing
for my dolls. Regarding the reroot, before I shave the head, I use tweezers for eyelashes.
Barbie‘s head is softer than Fashion Royalty‘s, so it‘s easier to shave and to reroot. When I
make reroot on Fashion Royalty, I always put the head under a hot water bottle to make it softer.
I use saran hair and the knot method.
From the mother lock, I separate some smallest locks, and with these I prepare little locks to
install. Once I have separated a lot, I start installing them. I use reroot needles and pliers (which
is useful to throw out the needle). Rerooting is long and boring, but you‘re going to be
completely satisfied when you‘ll see your ―new‖ doll! Once the reroot is finished, I fix the
work using boiling water, then cold water. Then I wash the hair and let dry.
About the repaint, instead, I use acrylic colors of good quality, and very thin brushes, from zero
to ten zero or more. I erase the original makeup using nail remover acetone free, and then I wash
the face and apply Mister Super Clean flat. Now I‘m ready to start. First of all I paint the white
of the eye. I let it dry and in the meanwhile I sketch eyebrows and lips. Then I start painting
irises. I add pupils, and outline the eye in black or brown, or I use a color en pendant with the
makeup. Once eyes are ready I add some lightening points in the pupils. Then I define eyebrow
and paint lips and add some blush. At this point my repaint is finished and I can seal it using
water varnishes (gloss or flat), or use Mister Super Clear.
Once my head is ready, I can go on with the hairstyle. This is a very funny phase! Now it‘s
the dress turn to be created. I usually sketch the dress before, and then I‘ll choose fabrics. Once
the dress is ready, I put it on my doll and add some accessories. My ooak is ready - See her
below!
See my works by visiting my: FLICKR PAGE.
AL'EXito's
Dear friends, I am a guy named Alex. I‘m a beginner in the world of customizing. It took only
two years trying to tweak and improve the best way I could with my beautiful dolls. It all started
one day when one of my Barbie‘s had a little spoiled makeup paint and I was feeling bold and
decided to repaint on the spot with the items I already had on hand at home; there was one item
that was like chalk that I used first.
From my experience, you must be careful when using chalks because most contain oil and they
can create a cakey like and gritty appearance that looks faded and may cause a yellowing due to
oil. Even though my first experience was really bad, I learned to take a trick and eventually lose
the fear to try again. I looked at several websites and also asked some well known repainters in
the world of Barbie and Fashion Royalty. These are the type of dolls that currently work best for
me and other people informed me that the best thing for a repaint is water based acrylics, which
are much easier to remove in case of error. However, I always try to dilute with a little water, to
avoid lumps.
One artist advised to not delete the original face paint and repaint over makeup because there is a
higher chance that lumps may appear if you remove the face paint. This will not be the preferable
choice depending on the type of repaint you‘ll work on. Of course you may remove the original
makeup with acetone, but be cautious when doing so. Nail polish remover is best because it‘s
softer than pure acetone; the latter can damage the vinyl if applied repeatedly. When repainting
on a previously cleared area, new paint absorbs better and may not appear smooth. To make
beautiful mixed colors and tone, you can use paints that contain pearl luster. It‘s like glitter but
smoother. Also, apply to the finished effect varnish with gloss or matt lacquer to set the makeup,
but you should neither rub the area hard repainted because it could be damaged.
Now we go to the reroot method, which is basically like your girls attending the hairdresser! To
reroot, you‘ll mainly need a lot of patience—you‘ll be a little bored and tired, but when you have
the result, it‘ll be worth every minute and will be fantastic. When you work with Fashion
Royalty, you have to take help of a hair dryer to remove the head of the body. First, cover the
hair with a towel leaving only the bare neck, and then move the dryer a closer distance, about
15cm, for about two minutes. Then, try to carefully remove the head because the neck can break
if the head is not soft enough.
Select a hair color and tuft for your doll. Remember, hair tufts are about 20 hairs. Meanwhile, we
can heat the head with an electric blanket or put the head under hot water, then, put a lock of hair
into a needle that is twice the size of a traditional. After we put the lock in the hole, we get the
needle through the neck. We now have the lock on the outside of the neck. Do two or three knots
in the strand, now we have to pull out and at the top we have grafted the lock of hair on the head.
This is a tedious and boring process, but with worthwhile results. You can also do a few strands a
day and have it done in a week or two. It is a real pleasure for me to help and work with you all.
Regards, Alex (Al'exito)
Email: [email protected]
FLICKR
JUAN ALBUERNE
GUIDELINE TO MAKE A FLOCKING
You have to take off ALL the hair from the doll, the same way that if you were going to make
a rerooting. So first of all you will have to separate doll‘s head from her body. Taking off that
hair is one of the most boring things I‘ve ever done, but it is necessary to do it that way.
After that, you have to paint the head with a colour slightly darker than the colour of the hair you
are going to use. Then let it dry completely.
In a wide flask you will have the hair ready. You don`t? Well, you simply have to pick some hair
(I always use some from other different doll) and with the sharp scissors you cut very short
sections, trying to get them in a similar length. Do you think you have enough hair to cover
doll‘s head? Cut more, it‘s better to get more than less.
The paint on the head will be dry already. Now you have to apply white glue (that one that
becomes clear when it‘s dry) with a painting brush, taking care of not exceed the painting. When
the glue is yet wet, you put doll‘s head into the flask while you hold it through the hole with the
tweezers, and cover completely the glue with the hair. If you notice, some portions don‘t get the
hair, so you will take some of it with your fingers and put it where necessary.
Let it dry for a day and then repeat the process. When this second layer is dry you will have to
take off the spare hair with a wide and soft brush (the best are the ones you use to apply your
own make- up). If you think some hairs are too long, you finally cut them with the scissors.
That‘s all. This is a technique everyone can do even if you never did it. Just be patient when you
cut the hair (remember, cut it very short), let the two layers of glued hair dry completely, and
don‘t forget to apply the painting on the base. Your doll has changed completely when you
finish this process!
SOME TIPS FOR PAINTING
FIRST OF ALL: I always take off the original painting with acetone. I always use acrylic and
varnish paintings. For the smooth effects, like cheeks, shadows and eyes make-up, I use pastel
powder.
EYE LINE: If you want that the eyes seemed more stretched than originals, you‘ll have to paint
the eye line below the molded line with a dark colour. The more wide line, the more stretched.
If you want a bigger eye, you‘ll have to paint the eye line in the upper side of the molded
line.
IRISES: You‘ll obtain a better result if you do them smaller than original, the way that they don‘t
reach the low line of the eye and you can see a white line below. You also can try to place them in
a different side of the eye, and not in the middle. Be careful with the symmetry. And what about
colours? Be natural, don‘t put strange colours. Don‘t paint the apples too big, and put a spot of
light. Finally, if you paint the eyes with glow varnish (even the eyelashes), they look more
realistic.
EYEBROWS: Be careful with the symmetry of the arch. You can paint them in many shapes.
Look the different eyebrows in people. Don‘t paint them in black. Try with dark or medium
brown. Paint them with thin lines and the colour very liquid.
EYES SHADOW: You must be an expert if you dare to make the shadow of the eyes. You‘ll have
to place it in the right way and be very careful. Anyway, there is a more simple way to
change the look of the eyes; a touch of colour will be fine, if you make it in a soft colour. You
can add also a touch of metallic painting
MOUTH: With the eyes, the most important thing. If you don‘t want to face any problems, you
can try painting in the same moulded line. Don‘t choose a colour too hard, you‘ll got better
results. When you have filled them with the chosen colour, add a touch of the same colour
mixture with a bit of white in the middle side of the low lip, and smooth it. If you apply gloss
varnish you will get a more voluptuous look
CHEEKS: You can reserve the original blush, but if you want to change it, that‘s a simple
work. Mix a light pink (I use a colour named old rose) with the slow dry liquid, and paint a line
across the cheek. Then, smooth that line till it mix with the colour of the face. You can do other
things with the cheeks, but it‘s a hard job and you can ruin the face.
NOSE: You can paint the holes. If you do that, you‘ll get more big holes look. Don`t use a dark
colour.
PAINTING WITH PASTEL POWDER:
If you use this technique, you have to paint in layers, and apply a flat varnish spray between
every layer.
-
Use non-greasy pastel bars
-
To get the powder from the pasted bar, just scratch the end of the bar on a sandpaper. Get
every colour powder and then use the sandpaper as your own colour palette
-
To prevent the damage of the rooted eyelashes from the varnish, simply apply on them a
face/body cream, that you will take off the moment you finish with the painting/varnish
process.
-
Remember preventing the hair too. You can wrap it in plastic kitchen film.
-
Use different painting brushes for dark and light colours, don‘t mix them.
Visit Juan’s WEBSITE
Lulemee
Hello dear readers! My name is Lulemee and I am repainting dolls since many years now and
my main focus lies on animated and Disney characters. It all started with a dream…literally. I
dreamed of a perfect Snow White doll, which looked exactly like the animated beautiful
princess by Walt Disney. The dream was so vivid and beautiful, that after waking up, I made a
research to find a doll that was as beautiful as my dream. But I didn‘t! In my opinion the dolls
back than on the market, which should represent the amazing charming animation, didn‘t look
at all like their counterparts.
So I decided to make my own Snow White doll by repainting her face and changing her hair
and cloths. I was an experienced painter back than but never painted on such a miniature 3D
canvas before… it is so different! But it was so much fun and I couldn‘t stop to repaint all the
Disney dolls out there! When I started no one else was repainting animated character dolls, so I
didn‘t have guidance for my repaints and had to figure out everything on my own….a hard
time! Now this art form seems to be much more en vogue and many collectors are customizing
their own dolls.
And to help you with your Disney repaint, I will show you a step by step instruction on how to
make a beautiful Disney OOAK doll using Elsa from Disney‘s masterpiece Frozen.
(Two past Elsa repaints)
Let‘s first start with the supplies you need:
I don´t have to mention that a clean workplace as well as good illumination is required to work
with dolls. My desk stands in front of a window, so I have a lot of daylight and I have two desk
lamps, which are positioned on both sides of the desk with white light bulbs with at least 800
lumen, so it´s really bright.
To erase the original paint and to correct mistakes I use pure Acetone. If you can´t get acetone,
you also can use nail polish remover. Some work better than others; you have to simply try
them out. For these purposes I have Q-tips and toilet paper. I use it to remove the paint,
especially in narrow places like the lips or the eye rids, to clean my pencils, to keep my
workspace clean.... for everything! I also have a cup with clear water, so I can clean the face
of the doll or the brushes.
I do my whole repaint with acrylic paints. I know that some other artists use pastels and
watercolor pencils as well, but I don´t. Don´t ever use any permanent marker on your doll! The
brand is not really important; the important thing is that the paint has a good quality. Artist
quality paints are the best; they have the most and the finest pigments and work best for vinyl
dolls. I highly don‘t advise cheap paint (which is often labeled "Hobby Acrylic Paint" or
"Craft Acrylic Paint"). These paints include substantially more solvents which can cause paint
staining and bleeding into the vinyl, which cannot be removed and might destroy your doll.
This is a common mistake people make when they start to repaint…I did too!
As a palette, to mix the paints, I use a simple china plate instead of a wooden palette. The
paints stay wet longer on the plate. Moreover a plate is easier to clean. There are also special
wet paint palettes available in art supply stores. In addition I use a cup with clean water. There
are also plenty of mediums for acrylic paints out there to make specific effects. It's completely
up to you what kind of medium you like. You have to try them out. One of the most important
things besides good paint are the brushes.I use various brushes for my repaints, depending of
what I exactly do. You can get good paint brushes in every art supply store or online on art
supplies sites.
A repaint made with acrylic paint doesn´t need to be sealed, because acrylic paint doesn´t
come off with rubbing. You can of course seal your paint with a brush-on or spray-on sealant.
Many artists use the sprayant sealant Mr. SuperClear. Only use this sealant with caution, as it´s
super toxic and must not be used in closed rooms. Also make sure to wear a face mask and
gloves while using it. These are the reasons why I don´t use Mr. SuperClear or other sprayant
sealants... I´m just too afraid of their toxicity. And this is the reason why I make my repaints
with acrylic paints only. Every other painting method (watercolor pencils, pastels etc.) requires
the using of a sprayant sealant.
Now let‘s get a canvas!
First you have to remove the original paint of the doll. As I mentioned above, I use pure
acetone for this purpose. Get some acetone on your Q-tip and gently rub the face of your doll,
the paint will come of easily. After all the paint is gone clean your dolls face with water.
Let‘s start paint!
Fist I make a sketch of the face on the doll. I make the sketch with acrylic paint in a grey or
brown color. This doesn‘t have to look perfect, it is just to get the proportions right. I will
change the shape of the eyebrows later, because at the end I wanted this Elsa to look
sassier…but when I started this repaint I wasn‘t sure about her final expression yet.
After the sketch is done I fill the eyebulb with white paint and start to paint her eyeshadow.
Elsa has a purple eyeshadow. To paint the eyeshadow I take a thicker brush and just a little bit
of paint. Don‘t make the paint to watery, because than you will get blobs. Take a tiny bit of
paint on your brush and then add the paint in circles and blend out the edges. It requires a bit of
practice to get this right, don‘t be frustrated if it doesn‘t turn out perfectly for the first time.
Once the eyeshadow is done I paint the irises. First I fill out the iris in a dark blue color and
afterwards I add some highlights in a brighter blue color. Elsa has huge pupils. I personally
hate painting the pupils, they have to be completely round and symmetrical. There is no trick
to do it sadly… here again the only thing that helps is practice practice practice…
Next I paint the lashes with a black color. You need a thin brush and a steady hand to get them
right. I start at the outer edge of the eye and paint one lash after another going inwards.
After you painted the pupil add a white reflection to the iris, it will make the eyes more vivid.
Now the lips. Elsa hast very thin lips, I first paint them in a darker cherry red color and then
add a brighter rosé color in the middle of the lower lip.
As you see on the pictures, I changed the shape of the eyebrows to give Elsa a more sassy
expression. I first sketch the eyebrows with a thin liner brush and continue with filling them
out with paint to make them look smooth.
Once you‘re satisfied with your paintjob you can start to add some blush. If you are a starter I
recommend you to just leave the original blush untouched. I removed the blush as well, so I
have to add some. I use for the blush the same technique as for the eyeshadow. Tiny bit of
paint and blend out the edges.
To make your doll look even more realistic you can also add some real lashes! I use human
fake lashes for this purpose. I cut them in three or four small parts, add some transparent
drying crafty glue on them and put them on the upper eye rid with some tweezers. The good
think about crafty glue is, that it needs some time to dry so you have enough time to place the
lashes in the correct place. When you‘re satisfied let it dry for at least 10 minutes. Than you
can trimm the length with some small nail scissors.
And here she is: your possible future Elsa doll! Now just style her hair and dress her properly!
And don‘t forget the most important thing about doll repainting: Have a lot of fun!!!
On the next pages you can see more of my past Disney doll repaints. They all are made with a
similar technique, so you can transform the tutorial to any other character you like.
Coronation Elsa and Snow Queen Elsa 16― dolls (base dolls by Disneystore):
Coronation Anna and Snow Gear Anna 16― dolls (base dolls by Disneystore):
Troll wedding Anna and Just awake Anna 12― dolls (base dolls by Disneystore):
Maleficent 12― doll (base doll by Jakks Pacific), Periwinkle 10― doll (base doll by
Disneystore)
Briar Rose/ Aurora Sleeping beauty 12― doll and Ariel 12― doll (base dolls by Mattel)
Charlotte LaBoeuff 12― doll (base by Disneystore) and Esmeralda 12― doll (base by Mattel)
If you would like to see more of my work visit my web site www.lulemee.com!
You can also follow me on Facebook: CLICK HERE
Deviantart
http://lulemee.deviantart.com/
and Instagram
https://instagram.com/lulemee/
I am in no way related to the Mattel- or any other Doll-Company. I am just using the dolls as a
canvas for my artistic expression. I am also not related to the Walt Disney Company, I am just
inspired by the art of animation. I don´t claim ownership of any of the characters that are
displayed. All Disney characters belong to the Disney Company. I am buying dolls and
enhancing them through paint paying tribute to the art of animation, I don´t copy any
preexistent dolls.
"The true work of art is but a shadow of the divine perfection." Michelangelo
Lucy Gamova
Hello, my name is Lucy aka <Hellfish>. I‘ve been drawing/painting/sketching for as long as I
remember myself, and my passion for dolls has brought me into 1:6 scale customizing about 2
years ago. Repainting was not as easy as it seemed at first, but with lots of self-education and
hard work I believe my repaints have become more or less professional with time. This is what
I started with (2013), and what I am able to do now (2015):
Here‘s one of my latest non-commissioned projects that I would like to share with you. In this
step-by-step process description I‘m not promising any revelations (all the technical
information is available on the Web, after all), and this is not a tutorial proper, but I do hope
some useful stuff can be fished out of it 
Doll lovers all over the globe enjoy customizing. Sometimes, a reroot, a new outfit or even a
pair of new shoes can greatly change a doll‘s look, but a lot of people are willing to go even
further and have their Barbies, FRs or Monster High beauties repainted for a completely
unique effect. A whole range of Asian 1:6 dolls come unpainted (Obitsu and Volks head
sculpts), so you either use decals or, send your doll to an artist. However, good face-ups are
expensive, and waiting can be so exhausting! So why not do the job yourself?
Before you begin
1: Pick Your Victim.
I strongly recommend picking an old, unwanted or a cheap knock-off doll for your very first
repaint experiment. 1:6 scale dolls are normally 20- 35 cm tall, but their heads‘ sizes vary
greatly. A beginner would normally be more comfortable with a larger head.
The lady you see here is a hybrid Mattel/SpinMaster doll that I had previously rerooted with
fine saran hair. She features a Lara Barbie sculpt which is rather rare in playline dolls. Her
head is bigger than that of a Collector‘s Barbie, but smaller than a LIV doll‘s. I like her factory
faceup, but the idea is to give her a more realistic, human appearance.
1. See What’s Underneath.
Now it‘s time to wipe that face clean. Make sure the room you are in is well-aired
(going outside is recommended), send all the family members and pets away and
get yourself a protective mask (optional, for those who can‘t stand the smell).
I use ACETONE-FREE professional nail polish remover on all my dolls (BJDs
included). It smells nicer than pure acetone, but..well, it smells nevertheless, but it‘s
non-toxic and I‘m quite happy with the result. Do not economize on cotton pads!
As soon as the cotton disk is dirty, take a new one. Smaller areas like eye corners or
lips can be cleaned using a toothpick with some cotton wrapped around its tip. Put
used pads into a sealable container and dispose of it as soon as you can- the smell
will linger if you don‘t. Once the doll is nice and clean, wash the head with soapy
lukewarm water to remove any chemical remnants or grease, and let it air dry under
a clear plastic bag to avoid dust. If you are in a hurry, you can dry the doll with a
non-woven kitchen cloth (do not use the regular cotton towel, it will surely leave
tiny bits of material on the surface, and this should be avoided at all costs).
2. Get The Doll Ready For Base Coating.
Now that the doll is dry, her body and hair must be covered up before sealing the
face.You might also want to braid the hair if it‘s long and unstyled beforehand.
Note: many artists take the doll‘s head off before repainting for better access. In my
opinion this is only justified if you are dealing with BJDs whose heads are made of
hard resin or ABS plastic and are easy to take off and put back on. On the contrary
vinyl heads on most popular play scale dolls are soft and prone to deforming. This
can cause the protective sealant layer to crack when putting the head back on (and
who wants the whole repaint ruined at this final stage?). And besides, working with
the head complete with the body is not as difficult as it might seem.
I use food plastic film to wrap up the body (sometimes fixing the edges with a piece
of adhesive tape) and non-woven cloth for hair protection. Both materials are
cheap, flexible and do their job nicely. I take them off at the latest stage of the
repaint.
When ready, use a clean dry brush to remove any dust particles or small hairs. You
don‘t want any to those stuck to the surface and sealed onto it. Now stabilize your
doll (I use a common glass jar) and cover it with a transparent shield to avoid the
ever-present dust (a former plastic water bottle is good for that purpose).
3. MOST IMPORTANT: PROTECT YOURSELF
Ok, so this point must not be ignored. Even by beginners, and especially by beginners
and their family members or pets. Nobody wants cancer at an early age, right? This
applies to the most common base and sealant medium used by repainters, Mr.Super
Clear (or MSC).The spray is extremely toxic and must not be inhaled, applied to skin or
eyes! The danger is gone after the current layer is completely dry, and that is after 24
hrs.
ALWAYS, AT ANY TIME, USE RESPIRATORY, EYE AND SKIN PROTECTION
if you are using MSC! And please do not allow any people or animals near the freshly
sealed doll. Health issues are no joke. It is best to let the doll dry in an isolated place
afterwards.
If you are using any other sealant, read instructions carefully and make sure the
medium is safe to work with.
Here are my goggles, gloves and respirator that I always wear when sealing a doll. I
also put on a long-sleeved shirt just in case. You can go to any doll-dedicated forum for
advice on masks, filters and brands. Yes, all of these things are expensive, but so is the
hobby you are into, and, most importantly, your health. Check that all of these fit
before getting down to business.
The MSC bottle is to be shaken vigorously for a minute or two before applying. Do not
warm or boil the bottle! Spray outside or in a well-aired room, from a 30-40 cm
distance in several 1-2 second takes so that the doll head looks ―wet‖. Do not forget the
cheeks, chin and forehead areas! Then leave the doll to dry under the plastic cover (see
above). Do not allow anything to touch the sealed area until it is completely dry and
looks matt.
4. A Word OnBasic Materials.
When the doll has dried sufficiently, it‘s time to start repainting.
In my case redrawing, because my primary artistic medium is a watercolor pencil. Or
rather a huge palette of pencils. My favorite brands are Faber Castell (the Albrecht
Durer series) and Derwent Watercolor. The FC provide brilliant sharp and thin lines,
while DW‘s pigment is stronger and good for wider areas.
Additionally, you will want a set of thin cotton gloves to work in. Human skin always
has an amount of grease on its surface that will 100% stain the doll even if you
constantly wash your hands. And a greasy surface means no color will apply the way
you want. So don‘t be greedy and get those gloves. What else? A good pencil sharpener
to keep your pencils‘ tips super thin (a couple of those get disposed of every month), a
set of soft (NOT OIL-BASED!!) pastels, the more colors the better; some extra thin
brushes for precise details. Look for sizes 000-00000, natural or artificial hair is an
artist‘s personal choice. Personally I like artificial brushes more: they last longer.
You will also need some flat brushes to apply pastels with (the bigger the tip, the wider
area it covers), and a big soft brush for dusting the face. Advanced artists use
aerographs instead of pastels, but I do not have the resources to get one just yet. For
corrections you can either use a soft eraser, but a dry melamine (magic) sponge works
way better for me: it is soft and never smudges the colors the way some erasers do. You
can see remains of one such sponge in the picture above 
5. Layer One.
Always study reference materials beforehand and keep some in front of you while at
work. You can use pictures of real people, drawings you enjoy, or simply look at
yourself in the mirror: the sources are truly limitless. If you aim at a natural-looking
face, you‘ve got to carefully study the anatomy and the way human eyes are depicted.
Try making some draft drawings on paper before you begin and see how you do.
Sketching will also prepare your hand for the thin lines you will have to draw on a doll.
The rule is: the more you practice, the more dolls will become pretty.
Once you have a clear plan of what you want on your doll, you can begin drawing. The
sprayed surface should be matt and dry to the touch and will feel almost like paper,
only 3D. This particular Barbie has a hint of sculpted eyelids which is very helpful for
an artist. Most anime heads do not provide such luxuries (the nose being their only
prominent feature) and can be very misleading for a novice.
First I sketch a thin outline of eyeballs, eyelids, brows and the line between the lips
(and teeth in this case).
The idea is to make everything symmetrical from the very beginning and work from
bigger outlines to smaller details. To check yourself you can either turn the doll upside
down or simply take a picture of the current stage. Somehow in a photograph all the
faults become very visible.
Next step: trace the upper eyelash row with a darker pencil. Do not go straight to very
dark or black colors: it you do, the lines will be harder to correct and the resulting
effect will be that of a coal drawing. Too dark and smudgy, unnatural. Do not forget to
dust the face with the big soft brush from time to time! Smaller particles of pencil core
can become obstacles you will hardly notice.
Then use some white pigment for the eyes. Lara here has sun-tanned skin, so the whiter
the eyeball, the more vibrant her iris will be. This step can be omitted on pale dolls.
Again, check the symmetry. You can correct any steps by either erasing with melamine
sponge, or use a semi-dry (do not use too much water!) thin brush to smooth the lines.
Remember, you are drawing in watercolors which are very soluble.
Note: no human face is 100% symmetrical, so if your doll has slight deviations from
super regular facial features, it‘s all right.
Final step on this layer: add some color to the cheeks, lips and shade the bridge of the
nose and upper eyelids using soft pastels. Use a wide brush for cheeks, and smaller
ones for lips and eyelids. Do not use strong pigments on this first layer. Color can be
added later. You can also accentuate the tip of the chin, the nose, and the forehead – all
of these are up to you. In the background you can see all the instruments I‘ve used so
far (plus the pastels).
Note: on dark-skinned dolls like Monster High Catty Noir it‘s recommended to lighten
up eye and lip areas with pastels, seal, and then work on as described here.
If you like what you‘ve got so far (or simply feel that the pencils refuse to draw the
way they should), it is time to save the progress and seal the current layer.
Make sure you brush away any dust before sealing!
6. Layer Two.
After sealing your 1st layer it‘s time to get down to details. I have decided on a straightlooking doll, so the next step is to indicate the irises on both eyes. And also make the
eyebrows more visible. Again, the idea is to work from lighter tones to darker ones.
Then draw the pupils. The dolly is slowly coming to life!
Your next steps will be to define the eyelids, add shades and highlights:
As you can see, black pencils tend to ‗die‘ first. After you are done with shading and
highlights, you can seal your work again. A beginner is strongly recommended to do
so. Because next come the eyelashes, the most delicate thing in the whole process. But
I skipped this step with Lara and went straight on in the same layer.
A word on eyelashes: it might seem obvious, but not all girls out there wear that
smoky-eye look. Sometimes we like our eyes more natural. That‘s why you can use all
possible shades of brown, coal grey and even maroon to draw eyelashes instead of plain
black.
I also defined Lara‘s lips a little bit. But that is purely optional.
Here are some close-ups for you to see:
Almost there! If needed, you can add some more blush to her cheeks at this point. For
nice-looking blush use a mix of pastels: pink, rosy, brown and the one closest to your
doll‘s skintone. Then dust, seal, and let dry.
7. Final Strokes.
Now it‘s high time to congratulate yourself on getting this far. Your creation is almost
ready to face the world!
However, the very last thing to do will be adding some ‗wetness‘ to the doll‘s lips and
eyes. And in my case some glitter to her eye shadows.
I use acrylic gloss and acrylic paint with metallic glitter for those purposes. Both media
can be diluted with water in case you do not want too much gloss or glitter.
While the gloss is drying, you can fix your doll‘s hair 
A pet brush does miracles to delicate dolly hair!
8. Photo Shoot!
I believe most doll lovers will agree with me: the best part of giving your doll a new
face is taking her out to take pictures! Everybody looks so much better in natural light

Contact Lucy Gamova (AKA Hellfish)
FLICKR ACCOUNT
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ETSY SHOP
VK GROUP (For Russian Speakers)
Dawn Anderson,
One Sixth Sense
(OSS)
The Asian Eye
I am half Japanese. My grandparents sailed from Japan when they were young, and they settled
in Hawaii where my mother was born and raised. It can, therefore, be safely said that I have an
intimate knowledge of the ―Asian eye‖, and I love to paint it on doll vinyl. Asian dolls
occasionally appear, but they are still few and far between. Collectors who appreciate the Asian
flavor often choose to have a repaint artist create dolls that cannot be found on retail shelves;
however, working with the present day sculpts in order to make them appear Asian is not an easy
process. It takes time and patience and practice.
Most doll sculpts, unless they are intentionally sculpted as Asian, have inset eye sockets with
well-defined eyelids and brow ridges. Noses are long, narrow, and sometimes lean toward
aquiline. The Asian noses in my family are decidedly not like most of those on doll sculpts. I
wish mine was less Asian. I get tired of nudging my eyeglasses up every few minutes! All this
is to say that if you, the repainter, wish to transform a non-Asian doll sculpt into an Asian face,
you are going to need to do some work, and you are not going to be able to rush the process if
you want to be happy with the results.
The first step is to thoroughly remove all the factory paint and applied lashes if those exist on
the sculpt you are using. For this I use 100% pure acetone on cotton swabs. Do not use nail
polish remover, tinted or otherwise. Most of it is non-acetone, and it won‘t be as effective. Use
pure acetone and numerous swabs. For eyelash removal, I use a product that is no longer
available, so I will not name it here. I have not had good luck using acetone to remove the glue
ridge. My best advice to you is to experiment and find what works best for you.
After removing the factory paint, eyelashes, and glue ridge, wash the vinyl with tepid water and
a mild liquid soap. Rinse well and allow to dry. Water alone neutralizes acetone, but I prefer to
use a mild soap too. Secondly, study the sculpt well under good light and magnification. You
really need to understand what the sculpt is before you can attempt to alter it. Remember that if
you lighten an area, it will come forward, and if you darken an area, it will recede.
These concepts will help you with your deception. Understand also that the profile of the doll
will remain as sculpted. No amount of paint can change that fact. You are working to create the
illusion of Asian eyes within the existing sculpt, an illusion that will be appreciated far more
from a frontal view of the face.
Step three is painting in the whites of the eyes. Give them a good almond shape with a slight
upward slant on the outside corners. Once you have perfected this beginning shape and angle,
you will be able to alter the shape for more dramatic looks down the road. Once you have several
thin layers of white laid down, the next step will be the most important.
You will now need to blend your acrylic paints into a shade just a tiny bit lighter than the
existing vinyl skin tone. Using an angled shader brush (I use size 12/0), apply your paint blend
to the entire eye socket area and up over the brow ridge. Use your finger tip to lightly blend the
paint edges into the vinyl. Make sure you cover all of the eye area up to the white paint,
including underneath and lightly onto the very top of the ―apple‖ of the cheek.
The goal is to ―flatten‖ the area by bringing the creases and recessed areas forward by applying
light paint to them. Do this in several blended layers, allowing each layer to dry before applying
the next. After you have achieved the overall look you want, go back in with a spotter brush. (I
use a 20/0 round spotter) and apply an even lighter tone directly to the crease that was sculpted
for the original eyelid.
This will bring that crease forward and trick the human eye into believing that the crease is no
longer there. Next, you will want to paint and shade the irises, the whites of the eyes the tear
ducts, etc.
I paint eyes in a particular sequence, but I know other artists who paint them in an entirely
different order of steps, so I will not go into them at this time. Once you have painted these areas
of the eyes, you are ready for what I consider the all-important upper eye line. Asian eyes have
what are called epicanthic folds, when the skin fold of the upper eyelid covers the inner corners
of the eyes.
This upper eye line will draw the human eye‘s attention to it and will define the shape of the eye.
I often paint upper lashes only at the outer corner of the eye because it is common for Asians to
have short and sparse upper lashes. If the lashes are not long and do not curl upwards, they are
difficult to see; therefore, I do not paint them in. The lower lashes are usually painted as with
any other type of eye unless you are going for a cleaner look there as well.
The best way to learn how to paint the Asian eye is to study photos of human eyes and repainted
eyes, and then paint them on dolls. The more practice you have, the better the eyes. That is a fact
no matter what shape the eye. I approach each repaint with the thought of improving my skills. I
never want to stop learning or improving. To this end, I am providing several before/after photos
of Asian dolls I have created from non-Asian sculpts and using the technique I described in this
article. There are many photos of beautiful Asian eyes available on the web. Just do a search of
―Asian eye‖, and you will find enough to keep you busy for hours.
Please Visit Dawn’s,
WEBSITE: http://www.onesixthsense.com
FACEBOOK_PAGE
ETSY STORE
Loredana
What you need for a doll Repaint:
•
High quality Acrylic Color
•
One or two brush – I have a very thin brush which I choose for the complete
Repaint except a thicker brush. This one I only choose for the eyebrows and
details for the lips.
•
Brush for mixing
•
Color palette
•
Pipette
•
Cotton steps
•
Sealer
•
Facial tissues
The brown brush is my
universal brush. The red brush is for the details and eyebrow.
Let's start painting!
Mix the basic colors.
Remove the old face. Then paint with
the black color the top border and the with the dark brown the lower border. Now you
have a eye shape for orienting.
Then paint inside of the eye white. You need some color layers till it's bright enough.
After this you have to paint the eye shape again with black and dark brown. Because then
It's clear and looks more detailed.
Now you must mix a skin color
which is a little bit brighter than the skin tone of the doll. Draw top and down with the
brush a eyelid. Now it looks more clear and naturally.
Paint lower the row of eyelashes.
Do the same for the eyelid.
Now paint the eyelashes around the eyes. After this you must mix a eye color and than
paint the iris. The color shouldn't be too dark and bright. So it's harmoniously. When the
color is dry you must paint a border around the iris. This color should be darker that the
color for the iris. After this you must paint a pupil.
When you finish the steps than you can
paint bright strokes in the iris. And when you choose one or two bright colors more for the
strokes than it looks more alive and naturally! Now the eyes are finished! We start
painting the eyebrows. Mix a color two color for the eyebrows. One is the tone you want
to have it and the other is brighter.
Take the brighter color an paint the shape – without details.
When the color is dry than you paint with the brush individual hairs till you are satisfied.
Now we paint the lips! Mix a color you like and paint the lips. You need some color layers
and after this draw with the brush a very thin line between the lips. Now you can paint
with a little bit brighter lip tone some strokes on the lips. So it looks more real.
After all this step by steps you should wait one day and let the Repaint dry. To finish the
Repaint you should paint a sealer above the whole Repaint. I recommend a mat sealer and
perhaps a shiny.
Finished! :)
My email address: [email protected]
Also visit my Facebok page: https://www.facebook.com/LoredanaOoakDolls
and Website: http://loredanaooakdolls.jimdo.com/
Loredana Facial Hair Repaint Tutorial – Part 2
What You Need:
•
High quality Acrylic Color
•
One brush
•
Brush for mixing
•
Color palette
•
Pipette
•
Sealer
At first mix two color which match to the hair. You need a tone which is brighter than the
other. With this one you can start painting the beard. Try to paint single hairs.
For this beard I paint the hair with a length about 1-2 milimeters.
You should paint the hairs from the pine in the direction of the face. It's easier when you
start painting from the highest point. Also do not take too much color of the brush because
it could formed patches of color.
When you finish the first beard side of pine than you can paint hairs on the chin. Make
sure that it looks harmoniously to the face.
Do the same steps like the other pine.
Now it should look like this. :)
For the next step you do not have to make something diffrent. Now you must take the
darker color. And don't forget: Don't take too much color. Paint some hairs all over the
beard. The more you paint the beard will be darker and poet.
And the other side...
After all this you should paint a mat sealer over the beard. That's it! Finish! :D
My email address: [email protected]
Also visit my Facebok page: https://www.facebook.com/LoredanaOoakDolls
and Website: http://loredanaooakdolls.jimdo.com/
Bella Swan OOAK by Patt
(https://www.facebook.com/little.dolls.room)
Nikki Evans
To begin with, you need a blank doll. Use an old doll to experiment with first, and get a feel for
how it reacts to the removal and application of paint. It is far better to ruin an old doll, than the
brand new one you want customizing. Get a couple of cheap dolls and nail polish remover and
you are ready to start. Nail polish remover is the best for removing face paint.
Those with NO acetone are the least likely to damage the plastic of the body, but take AGES to
get the paint from a vinyl face, increasing the risk of paint smudging. And with paint smudging
can come staining. Paint that is stubborn to shift can be rubbed into the surface and then becomes
nigh impossible to remove.
I use a nail polish remover with acetone, but am very careful not to drip any on the body. It
works fantastic in getting rid of face paint, a couple of swipes with a wet cotton wool ball and
you're done. If it gets on the body however, it can mark it. It will sometimes leave a white
"bloom" on the harder plastic of the body and limbs, and even occasionally pit the surface, so be
careful.
That said, I have removed the stitches from Frankie's arm, and the stripes from Toralei's arms
using the polish remover. You have to be quick, not rub and have a very damp cotton ball or
wipe. Go over it ONCE only and then try a second time, do not move back and to, you are likely
to damage the plastic. Once washed after removing paint, there will be no residue.
I have added shading to the dolls' bodies using chalk pastels, but make sure they have NO oil in
them as they can also damage the vinyl and plastic. Basic chalk pastels can be rubbed onto the
body and face, to colour it softly. Usually it won't rub off, but it can be removed with polish
remover again. I added grey werewolf hands to my blue Lagoona when I was making the Na'vi
Neytiri and I changed her hands to an acceptable blue shade using the pastels.
1-The Neytiri doll with wire supports for ears and clay sculpted nose, also chalk pastel blushing on the
face. 2 - Clay ears completed and painted, with clay armbands. 3-Finished doll with yarn trolled hair.
All over painting will affect the joints of the dolls. The more you pose them after painting, the
more likely you will chip the paint, so an all over colouring is not recommended unless the doll
will be more of a stationary art piece. That said the dolls are paintable using acrylic paints. The
finer the brush the better, obviously, for painting faces and several thin layers of paint. You can
shade using very thin colour washes too.
The clay I use on the dolls is Staedtler Fimo Air LIGHT. This is an air dry clay and when dry is
extremely light in weight, making it perfect for using on doll heads. NO baking is needed, so it
can be applied straight onto the doll itself, and it has hardly any weight when dry, so it can be
used on the head and will hardly affect the balance of the doll. It‘s a slightly spongy texture, not
as dense as other clays, but it‘s easy to smooth with wet fingers, and takes paint wonderfully
when dry.
It‘s quite easy to get fine detail in this clay too, but it doesn‘t roll into thin sausages the way that
a dense clay might. It does, however, roll nicely and thinly into sheets. I have used this clay
directly onto the doll itself, as seen on the deer girl custom. It smoothes right onto the vinyl.
When making ears and such, I use a wire frame inserted into the doll head. I used this technique
on my Medusa dolls and the ears for my deer customs.
The wire is covered in strips of tissue paper and PVA glue, to give the wire some texture for the
clay to stick to. It wasn‘t easy to get the clay to stick to the wire shapes, and is best done using
tiny pieces to begin with, but with a little patience you can see the effects. The wire strengthens
the shapes and lessens the chance of the additions breaking off.
1-Wire supports for deer ears. 2-Clay added and painting begun. Milliput resin hooves sculpted.. 3-Details painted,
4-Finished doll.
When used in thin sheets, it is possible to make clay corsets/armour for the dolls. I wrapped the
dolls in plastic wrap and laid a thin sheet of clay directly onto the wrapped body. Then I used a
craft knife to cut out the shape and add details. When dry, the corset can be gently removed from
the body, the edges lightly sanded, and then painted. For the Tonner large Medusa, I made ribbon
ties for the corset fronts so that they were removable. On the Monster High Medusa, I glued the
dried and painted corset directly to the doll body.
I have also used Milliput epoxy resin clay for adding details. This is a two-part clay that has to be
mixed together and then it will begin to set in about twenty minutes, so you are better working
with small quantities. It does have a weight to it, so is best for small detailing and will set ROCK
HARD, so if in any doubt, remove before it becomes too hard. This will also smooth well with
water. I made Medusa‘s ornate sandals using Milliput directly onto the doll‘s feet, also her
armband.
The progression of the Medusa dolls. Wire supports are inserted into the doll head and the wire is wrapped in tissue
paper and PVA glue, then covered in clay sculpted snakes, pressing beads into the snake heads for eyes.. When dry,
the snakes are painted with acrylic paints.
Milliput epoxy resin is used for the armband on Medusa and also her shoes. The shoes were sculpted directly onto the
doll‘s feet. The light airdry clay was used to make armour corset pieces. Here you can see them drying on the doll
bodies (wrapped in plastic wrap). When dry, the pieces were painted and attached to the doll using ribbons, see
finished doll.
My Weeping Angels were a fabulous project and I enjoyed trying new techniques for these. As a
fan of Doctor Who and having been scared silly by the Angels, I decided that I must make my
own! The facial details on the scary Weeping Angel were sculpted in Milliput. Her mouth was
opened using a scalpel, a heat tool to soften the vinyl, and a pencil to open the mouth. When the
open mouth is the size you want, you can dip it into chilled water to set the opening. I made
teeth using Fimo polymer clay and baked them separately before adding the ―cooked‖ teeth into
the doll head using glue. I modelled a ―mouth back‖ inside the doll head using the airdry clay
again. The facial features are Milliput and the hair is light airdry clay.
1-Doll mouth being opened using a pencil and heat tool. 2-Scary angel face sculpting in progress using Milliput,
teeth inserted into open mouth. 3-Angel attached to base using heavy clay, with tissue paper /PVA glue layers
applied. 4 -Finished angry Weeping Angel.
1- Light airdry clay was used to sculpt the Angel‘s hair. 2-Light airdry clay wings created over a wire support
outline and left to dry before attaching. 3-Finished peaceful Weeping Angel.
The dresses of the Weeping Angels were also created using the light airdry clay. A support was
modeled around the dolls‘ feet using a heavier airdry clay, to attach the dolls permanently to
their bases and then once dry, several layers of tissue paper and PVA glue were applied to create
the shape of the dress. This was to eliminate excess weight and clay usage.
Then sheets of the light clay were applied over the base and legs of the doll, and details sculpted.
The dress bodice is sculpted directly onto the doll, as was the swirled hair.
Dentina the Tooth Fairy, seen here partially painted, with clay sculpted ears, and mouth painted over the sculpted
lines of the lips, to give an exaggerated grin. The finished doll, wigged and wearing a handmade outfit.
Doll wigs can be expensive but give a great new look to your customized doll. When looking for
more original, and often cheaper, ways of giving your doll a new head of hair, you can
experiment with several techniques. Mohair and wool yarn can be ―trolled‖ onto your doll. This
is a technique I learned about several years ago from a magazine article by Debra Beckley, of
American Jezebel, in Haute Doll March/April 2007. You can use mohair or Tibetan lambs wool
from the skin, or wool yarn. The yarn will give a look of dreadlocks, but is easier to do and is
great for fantasy looks when you use unusual colors.
I use a hot glue gun (mini one) and use a little line of glue at a time (either just covering the
stubble of a scalped doll or just forward of a pencil drawn hairline on a bald doll) pressing the
very ends of a small section of lambs wool (or yarn) into the glue. There is always some
shedding, (of the lambs wool) but usually not much if you press all the ends in. You might need
sturdy fingertips for this bit! I have had the odd blister or two! LOL! I start at the hairline first,
usually around the back of the head. You then work around in a circular pattern until reaching
the crown of the head or do most of the head and leave a bald spot on the top for partings. Only a
small section, you still need hair underneath close to it.
I have found it's possible to do partings by laying a line of hot glue where you want it to be and
pressing the sections of hair in (with the section of hair falling over the opposite side of the head,
then "folding" it back over the glued ends and over the rest of the hair, like a "comb over".
Sometimes I dab a teeny bit of glue under to help hold the hair down, just a little from the glued
root. It's possible to still style the hair and wet it, that doesn't seem to affect the glue. I don't soak
the hair, but you can damp it down to comb.
1-The Anne of Grim Gables has been wigged using felting wool. 2 & 3 -Both my Ghoulia zombie and pink cat girl
have been trolled using mohair. 4-Clay sculpted flame hair on a Monster High boy. 5, 6 & 7-My mermaid girls
have trolled yarn hair and I‘ve decorated the hairstyles using beads, crystals, fabric flowers and button
embellishments. These hairstyles cannot be re-styled and are permanent, but they are great fun to decorate.
Felting wool is usually sold in coiled hanks, and is used for needle felting and making felt sheets.
It comes in an array of fabulous colours and can be used to make simple, but effective wigs for
dolls. For my Anne of Grim Gables‘ wonderfully carroty hair, I took a length of felting wool and
folded it in the centre, then sewed a seam across the fold, creating a part line when turned upside
down. This was then glued onto the doll head and plaits braided using the loose sections either
side. Like the yarn hair, this can be decorated with a number of embellishments, creating a truly
unique hairstyle.
Clay can also be used effectively for doll hair, as I have done on my Weeping Angel dolls. I also
created a flame hair do for my Monster High boy by removing his plastic hair and sculpting
directly onto his head using the light airdry clay. If making an animal headed doll, then
sometimes the ears and sculpting are enough, and clay can be used to create a smooth scalp
without hair. Think outside the box and create unique hairstyles using fibres, yarn, clays, wigs
sewn from felt, cotton strip ―rag doll‖ hair, etc.
Remember, every mistake made is something new learned. This is good to chant while holding a
half trolled doll in a blistered hand, a swatch of mohair in the other and trying to breathe slowly!
Polymer clay can be great for making doll accessories, but only use it on a doll if it‘s already
been baked. Polymer clay is strong when cured in an oven, but it cannot be used directly onto a
plastic or vinyl doll as they will not withstand the heat of the oven. Similarly, do not leave
uncooked polymer clay on a doll. The plasticisers within it do something really nasty and can
melt the surface of the doll. I had a bad experience many years ago, as a child using polymer
clay.
After finishing a project, I left some uncooked clay on the top of the plastic storage box and a
couple of days later returned to discover that is had melded itself to the lid of the box, literally
melting into the surface and couldn‘t be removed without further damage. Once cured, the clay
item can be used on a doll and glue or attached to the costume. Again, think outside the box for
accessories, the details can make a custom all that more special.
Would your doll like horns, a tail, or hooves? Between the air-dry clay, Milliput and polymer
clay, there is a multitude of materials to use. Perhaps your doll would like wings? Printing onto
acetate sheets (you can buy sheets designed to be printed on) with butterfly wing designs can be
very effective. These can be cut out and attached to the doll. Fabric wings, using gauzes and
ribbons could be utilized and fusible film is a fantastic way to make fairy wings.
For the Tooth Fairy wings, I followed an online tutorial (the Internet is brilliant for finding like
minded people and new techniques) using a thin wire for the wing ―veins‖, and fusible film
sheets, (they come in many colours) which are then heated to shrink them onto the frame and can
be trimmed to shape. Holes can be made using a lit incense stick, gently pressed through the
wing. Crystals can be added, and a layer of Glossy Accents will add shine and strength. Fibres
can be added during the heating process and all sorts of interesting shapes created. Think
butterfly, dragonfly and bat!
We are influenced every single day by what we see and hear. The creative part is putting your
own spin on an idea. My Monster High Sally custom, from Nightmare Before Xmas, was not the
first, and won‘t be the last, as she is a popular character, but I put my own twist on the doll by
making the dress out of felt. I love working in felt and this made the custom just that little bit
different.
I would think that creating your own version of a popular and established character shows an
admiration for the character and your creativity to create it in that form, especially if you are
making it for yourself and not profit, but don‘t copy other doll artists‘ original characters.
Always try to make your creation in ―your‖ style and look around you, there is plenty of
inspiration. Television programmes and movies are great ideas, or popular music, recreate your
idol in miniature form!
A particular colour scheme may spark off an idea, I collect scrapbooking papers just for
the colour ranges (occasionally I find time to dabble in paper arts!) or an item of clothing
may contain a design that gives you a character idea.
For theme ideas for a collection of dolls, consider the seasons, Holidays in the year,
astrology signs, flowers, poisons, pieces of art or classical music and how you would
create those images in 3D doll form.
Above all, have fun and don‘t be afraid to experiment, always have some old dolls to hand
to use as guinea pigs! I didn‘t have a clue what I was doing when I started customising, I
may still not have, but I am enjoying myself and I think this is very important in any
project. Note what works and what doesn‘t and you‘ll be creating works of art in no time.
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Conclusion
I hope you enjoyed this book featuring all these marvelous customization artists! You are
on your way to becoming a master repaint artist as well. I hope you enjoyed reading these
various perspectives and feel EXCITED about getting started ASAP! This book has all you
need to begin customizing. Here are some takeaways from this book to keep sight of.
1. The first step to becoming a fabulous repaint artist is to START! Click HERE to see
recommended paints, brushes, and tools to buy to get started with.
2.
Don‘t compare your work to anyone else because your art is an expression of you.
Comparison ultimately results in misery (no matter how good you are), so dissolve
it and focus on being the best you can be. The most important part is to enjoy the
process of creation.
3.
Begin with picking no more than 2 artists‘ perspectives that resonate with you the
most.
Most of all have FUN!
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