assembly instructions - Global Hobby Distributors

ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
A High-Performance Aerobatic Model of the Sukhoi Su-26M
The full scale Sukhoi Su-26M was designed for one
asm Sukhoi SU-26M Specifications and features
thing: unsurpassed, spectacular aerobatic performance
in competition. Advanced Scale Models has designed
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Wing Span: 1700mm (67 Inches)
and built this very realistic scale model with that same
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Wing Area: 47.7dm2 (760 Square Inches)
uncompromising spirit. The ASM Sukhoi Su-26M looks
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Length: 1470mm (58 Inches)
great and flies superbly. Its unique color scheme presents
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Weight RTF: 4.53kg (10 Pounds) Depending on Equipment Used
well in the air and draws attention everywhere it goes. Its
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Wing Loading: 95g/dm2 (31 Ounces/Square Foot)
beautiful, fully-round fiberglass cowling matches the colors
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Functions: Elevator, Ailerons, Rudder and Throttle
of the fuselage for a professional appearance.
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Radio Required: 4 Channel or More with High-Torque Ball Bearing Servos
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Engine Required: 1.20~1.60 2-Stroke / 1.50 ~2.10 4-Stroke / 26~35cc Gasoline
too. Its convenient-to-transport plug-in wings easily slide
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Plywood, Balsawood, Carbon Fibre Airframe with Highly-Detailed Moulded Skins
together at the flying field. Each wing half has independent
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Factory-Covered Wing Panels, Painted Fuselage and Glass-Fibre Cowl
servos with short 3mm pushrods for solid, secure aileron
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2-Piece Wing for Easy Transportation and Convenient Storage
control. A removable canopy with crutch allows easy
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Removable Canopy Crutch for Easy Access to Electronics
access to radio gear and more. This model is hassle-free.
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Exceptional Flying Qualities - Highly Aerobatic!
You'll be in the air fast. We know you'll enjoy flying your
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True-to-Scale Airframe with Full-Round Fuselage and Clear Moulded Canopy
ASM Sukhoi Su-26M.
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Accepts Affordable Radios and a Wide Array of Engines
Assembly of this detailed ARF model is fast and easy
Full-scale Sukhoi SU-26M specifications
Wing Span: 7.8m (25.6ft)
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Wing Area: 11.83m2 (127.3ft2)
Gross Weight (Empty): 670kg (1,477lb)
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Length: 6.83m (22.4ft)
Maximum Takeoff Weight: 962kg (2,121lb)
Maximum Allowed Speed: 450km/h (280mph)
Made in China
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Landing Distance: 250m (820ft)
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Height: 2.4m (7.9ft)
Engines: 1 x M-14P 360hp Radial
Stall Speed: 110km/h (68mph)
Kit Product Number ASM007
CUSTOMER SERVICE INFORMATION
In the USA
In the EU
Global Services
18480 Bandilier Circle
Fountain Valley, CA 92708
Phone: (714) 963-0329
Fax: (714) 964-6236
Email: [email protected]
Ripmax Ltd.
241 Green Street
Enfield, EN3 7SJ, U.K.
Phone: +44(0) 20 8282 7500
Fax: +44(0) 20 8282 7501
Email: [email protected]
In Australia
Model Engines (Aust.) PTY. LTD.
P.O. Box 828, Noble Park,
VIC., 3174
www.modelengines.com.au
SAFETY WARNINGS
This R/C model is designed for experienced pilots only! If you are not an experienced pilot comfortable with flying high-performance
model aircraft, do not continue.
Like this R/C model, these instructions are written with the experienced modeler in mind. All major steps are outlined; however,
the instructions are written keeping in mind that you're experienced in basic model assembly techniques and aircraft setup. If
you have questions during assembly, please contact your local distributor using the Customer Service Information above.
ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED TO COMPLETE ASSEMBLY
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1 x 4 Channel or More Digital Radio Control System that Features Mixing, Dual Rates, Exponential and EPA at Minimum
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5 x High-Torque, Ball Bearing Standard Size Servos for Ailerons, Elevator Halves and Rudder with Minimum 11.0kg/cm (150oz/in) Torque
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1 x 1.20~1.60 2-Stroke, 1.50~2.10 4-Stroke or 26~35cc Gasoline Engine
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1 x Propeller and Glow Plug to Suit Engine
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1 x 90mm (3-1/2") Diameter Alloy Spinner
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1 x Standard Servo for Throttle
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2 x 300mm (12") Servo Extension Leads for Aileron Servos
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2 x 600mm (24") Servo Extension Leads for Elevator Servos
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1 x Y-Harness for Elevator Servos
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1 x 4~5 Cell 1100mAh or Greater Capacity Receiver Battery
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1 x Fueling Valve
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1 x Protective Foam Rubber for Receiver and Battery
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Five and Thirty Minute Epoxy, Thin and Thick C/A, C/A Accelerator, C/A Debonder and Rubbing Alcohol
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Heat Sealing Iron to Seal Aileron and Elevator Hinge Gaps
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Assorted Modeling Tools (i.e., Modeling Knife, Screwdriver, Hex Wrenches, Etc.)
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Assorted Modeling Supplies (i.e., Sandpaper, Sanding Block, Aircraft Stand, Paper Towels, Etc.)
IMPORTANT Although the aircraft will fly using an engine at the lower end of the recommended range, the aircraft's aerobatic capability will be limited. For the best overall performance, we suggest using an engine at the higher end of the recommended range.
The engine is mounted on its side. If you're using a 2-stroke engine or a gasoline engine, you will need to use a matching Pitt's style
muffler to direct the exhaust out the bottom of the cowl. A 4-stroke engine's stock muffler can generally be routed out the bottom of
the cowl.
A five cell receiver battery should be used to provide more speed and torque for the flight control servos.
We suggest plugging the aileron servos into the receiver separately instead of using a Y-Harness. This will allow greater flexibility for
flight control trimming and mixing capability.
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KIT CONTENTS
Before you begin assembly, group the parts as we list them below. This will ensure that you have all of the parts before you begin assembly
and it will also help you become familiar with each part.
If you find any parts missing or damaged, please contact your local distributor directly,
using the Customer Service Information on the previous page.
AIRFRAME ASSEMBLIES
q (1) Fuselage with Removable Canopy
q (1) Right Wing Panel with Aileron
q (1) Left Wing Panel with Aileron
q (1) Horizontal Stabiliser with Elevator Halves
q (1) Rudder
MAIN LANDING GEAR AND TAIL WHEEL ASSEMBLIES
q (1) Preformed Main Landing Gear
q (1) Tail Wheel Bracket with Tail Wheel
q (2) Main Gear Wheels
q (2) Threaded Axles with Hex Nuts
q (2) Wheel Collars with Grub screws
q (3) M4 x 16mm Socket-Cap Screws
q (3) M4 Flat Washers
q (3) M3 x 8mm Wood Screws
q (1) Steel Steering Pin
ELEVATOR CONTROL SYSTEM ASSEMBLIES
q (2) 110mm (4-3/8") Threaded Pushrods
q (2) Nylon Control Horns with Backplates
q (4) Clevises
q (4) M2 x 25mm Machine Screws
q (4) M3 Hex Nuts
q (6) Nylon Hinge Points
RUDDER CONTROL SYSTEM ASSEMBLY
q (1) Stranded Pull-Pull Cable
q (1) M3 x 55mm Threaded Rod
q (2) Nylon Adjustable Control Horns
q (4) Clevises
q (4) Threaded Couplers
q (2) M3 Hex Nuts
q (2) M3 Flat Washers
q (4) M2 Hex Nuts
q (4) Brass Crimp Collets
q (3) Nylon Hinge Points
THROTTLE CONTROL SYSTEM ASSEMBLY
q (1) 725mm (28-1/2") Threaded Pushrod
q (1) 675mm (26-1/2") Pushrod Guide Tube
q (1) Clevis
q (1) Adjustable Pushrod Connector with Hex Nut and Grub Screw
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AILERON CONTROL SYSTEM ASSEMBLIES
q (2) 70mm (2-3/4") Threaded Pushrods
q (2) Nylon Control Horns with Backplates
q (4) Clevises
q (4) M2 x 25mm Machine Screws
q (4) M3 Hex Nuts
q (8) Nylon Hinge Points
ENGINE MOUNT ASSEMBLY
q (2) Adjustable Engine Mounting Beams
q (4) M4 x 25mm Socket-Cap Screws
q (4) M4 x 35mm Machine Screws
q (4) M4 Hex Nuts
q (4) M4 Split Washers
q (8) M4 Flat Washers
FUEL TANK ASSEMBLY
q (1) 450cc Fuel Tank
q (1) Nylon Cap
q (1) Rubber Stopper
q (1) Nylon Backplate
q (1) Nylon Straight Tube
q (2) Nylon 90º Tubes
q (1) Silicone Fuel Tubing
q (1) Fuel Pick-Up (Clunk)
q (1) M3 x 21mm Self-Tapping Screw
MISCELLANEOUS PARTS
q (1) Cowl
q (1) Wing Joiner Tube
q (1) Firewall Support Plate
q (1) Dashboard
q (4) Cowl Mounting Brackets
q (8) M3 x 10mm Wood Screws
q (4) M4 x 15mm Wood Screws
q (2) M4 x 25mm Wood Screws
q (2) Nylon Cable-Ties
q (4) Strips of Covering Material (Not Shown)
TIPS FROM THE PROS
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During the covering process, colour may sometimes smear slightly from the seams. If you see any smeared colours on the covering
material, it can be quickly removed by simply wiping it off with a paper towel and a small amount of acetone.
Do not use any solvents to clean the painted surfaces (fuselage, cowl and canopy). If necessary, rubbing alcohol can be used safely
to clean these surfaces.
Make sure to test-fit the parts before applying glue. This will ensure that the parts fit together properly before gluing them together.
When cutting away the covering material from the gluing surfaces, be careful to cut only through the covering material. Try not to cut
down into the balsa structure because that can compromise the integrity of the airframe.
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When gluing anything that has a smooth surface, it's important to lightly roughen the gluing surfaces with 220 grit sandpaper. This will
allow the glue to stick better. Also, never glue directly to the covering material. Always remove the covering material from the gluing
surfaces prior to gluing the parts together.
When you plug servo extensions onto the servo leads, apply heat-shrink tubing or electrical tape over the plugs to prevent any chance
of them pulling apart during assembly, or worse, during flight.
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Apply threadlocking compound to any screws that thread into metal. This will ensure the screws don't vibrate loose during flight.
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Apply machine oil (3-In-One Oil) or petroleum jelly to the pivot point of the hinges to prevent epoxy from gluing the hinges solid.
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If any dried epoxy remains on the hinge pivot points after hinging the control surfaces, it can generally be removed by using the tip
of your modeling knife to chip the dried epoxy off.
Before flying the aircraft for the first time, make sure to go through and double-check everything. Check that all the hinges are glued
solidly, all bolts and screws are tight, the aircraft is balance, control throws are set correctly, etc.
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It is imperative that the aileron hinge gaps be sealed. Failure to do this can lead to control surface flutter, which can cause your
aircraft to crash. Sealing the hinge gaps will also provide crisper control response and allow the aircraft to track straighter and fly truer,
making trimming much easier and more precise.
Apply thin C/A into any pilot holes that you drill into wood. The thin C/A will soak into the surrounding wood, making the pilot hole and
the area around it stronger.
Use a heat-sealing iron to adhere the covering material down where you cut it. This will prevent it from loosening up and wrinkling.
It's important that both elevator halves track evenly together throughout the entire deflection range. If one elevator half moves more
than the other, this will cause the aircraft to roll when it pitches up or down during flight.
It is very important that you understand throttle management. Basically, this means no full throttle dives. Full throttle dives should be
avoided so as not to cause control surface flutter and/or airframe failure. When the nose of the aircraft drops, decrease the throttle,
just as in full-scale aerobatics.
WING PANEL ASSEMBLY
Step 1: hinging the ailerons
IMPORTANT The hinges are NOT glued into place from the factory, they are simply slid into place dry for shipping purposes. You
must glue them into place.
Nylon hinge points are used to hinge the control surfaces. These hinges should be glued in with epoxy.
For flutter-free control surfaces and crisp control response, it is imperative that the hinges be glued in properly. This is achieved by
having a tight hinge gap (less than 1mm [~1/32"] wide) and using plenty of epoxy. Poor hinge installation can lead to control surface
flutter which can result in a catastrophic failure of the airframe.
q Remove the aileron and hinges from one wing panel.
q Apply a thin coat of machine oil or petroleum jelly to the pivot point of each of
the four hinges. Be careful not to get any on the gluing surfaces of the hinges.
IMPORTANT The machine oil or petroleum jelly will prevent epoxy from
gluing the hinges solid when they're installed.
q Apply a thin layer of 5 minute epoxy to one half of each hinge, then glue
the hinges into the aileron, making sure to wipe off any excess epoxy before
it sets up.
IMPORTANT Install the hinges so that the centre of each hinge (the pivot
point) is even with the point of the bevel in the leading edge of the aileron.
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q After the epoxy sets up, apply a thin layer of 5 minute epoxy to the exposed
half of each hinge, then hinge the aileron to the wing panel, making sure to
wipe away any excess epoxy before it cures.
IMPORTANT Push the aileron firmly into place to ensure that the hinge
gap is as tight as possible. The hinge gap should be less than 1mm (~1/32").
q Repeat the previous procedures to hinge the aileron to the second wing panel. After the epoxy fully cures, pivot both ailerons up and
down several times to free up the hinges and ensure smooth movement throughout the deflection range.
Step 2: Sealing the aileron hinge gaps
IMPORTANT It is imperative that the aileron hinge gaps be sealed. Failure to do this can lead to control surface flutter, which can
cause your aircraft to crash. Sealing the hinge gaps will also provide crisper control response and allow the aircraft to track straighter
and fly truer, making trimming much easier and more precise.
q Two different lengths of covering material are provided to seal the hinge
gaps. The two longer lengths are used to seal the aileron hinge gaps and the
two shorter lengths are used to seal the elevator hinge gaps.
q Fold one length of longer covering material in half lengthwise so that there
is a sharp crease down the middle of the covering material.
IMPORTANT Only the bottom of the hinge gap needs to be sealed. It is
not necessary to seal both the bottom and the top.
q Remove the protective backing from the covering material. With the aileron
fully deflected in the "UP" position, place the length of covering material over the
hinge line (on the bottom), making sure that the crease is pushed completely
down into the hinge line.
q With the aileron fully deflected in the "UP" position, use a heat-sealing
iron to adhere the covering material to both the trailing edge of the wing and
to the leading edge bevel of the aileron.
q Trim the excess covering material flush with both surfaces, then pivot the
aileron up and down several times to check for free movement throughout the
deflection range, then repeat the previous procedures to seal the aileron hinge
gap on the second wing panel.
Step 3: installing the aileron servos
q Plug one 300mm (12") servo extension onto one aileron servo lead.
q To prevent the plugs from pulling apart during assembly, or worse, during
flight, secure the plugs together, using a short piece of 10mm (3/8") diameter
heat-shrink tubing (not included). Use a heat gun to shrink the tubing.
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q Tie the end of the length of string that's inside the servo mounting hole to the servo extension plug, then pull the string from the other
end to guide the servo extension lead out through the root end of the wing panel.
q Install the aileron servo into the mounting hole, making sure to drill (1.6mm)
1/16" diameter pilot holes for the mounting screws, then repeat the previous
procedures to install the aileron servo into the second wing panel.
IMPORTANT The servo output shaft should be toward the leading edge
of the wing.
Step 4: installing the aileron control linkages
q Position and mark the mounting hole locations for one control horn on the
bottom of one aileron. When aligned properly, the centreline of the control horn
should be 298mm (11-3/4") out from the root end of the aileron (measured at the
hinge line) and the clevis attachment hole should be lined up over the hinge line.
q Drill 2mm (5/64") diameter pilot holes through the aileron for the control
horn mounting screws, then apply a couple of drops of thin C/A into the pilot
holes and allow the C/A to fully cure.
IMPORTANT The C/A will harden the surrounding wood, making the
mounting area stronger.
q Install the control horn and backplate, using two M2 x 25mm machine screws. Use wire cutters to cut the screws off flush with the
control horn backplate.
q Thread one 3mm hex nut onto each end of one aileron pushrod, then thread
one clevis onto each end of the aileron pushrod.
q Snap the clevis into the hole that is 19mm (3/4") out from the centre of the
servo horn, then centre the aileron servo and install the servo horn onto the
servo, making sure that it's centred and pointing out toward the wing tip.
q Hold the aileron centred, snap the clevis into the sixth hole up from the
base of the control horn, then tighten the two hex nuts against the clevises to
lock the pushrod and clevises in place.
q Repeat the previous procedures to install the aileron control linkage assembly on the other wing panel.
IMPORTANT Fine-tune the centre adjustment of the ailerons after the wing panels have been installed. This will allow you to centre
the ailerons with the wing fairing on the fuselage.
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WING PANEL INSTALLATION
Step 1: installing the wing joiner tube
q Slide one end of the wing joiner tube into one wing panel, making sure to
line up the predrilled hole in the wing joiner tube with the predrilled hole in the
bottom of the wing panel.
q Install and gently tighten one M4 x 25mm wood screw though the wing panel
into the wing joiner tube, to lock the wing panel into place.
IMPORTANT Don't overtighten the screw or you'll crush the wing.
Step 2: installing the wing panels
q Slide the wing joiner tube through the side of the fuselage, making sure to run the aileron servo extension lead through the slot in
the fuselage wing root fairing.
q Firmly push the wing panel up against the fuselage wing root fairing, making sure that the aileron servo extension lead is not pinched
between the fuselage wing root fairing and the wing panel.
q Slide the second wing panel onto the wing joiner tube and push it firmly up
against the fuselage wing root fairing.
q Install and gently tighten the remaining M4 x 25mm wood screw though the
wing panel and into the wing joiner tube, to lock the wing panel into place.
STABILISER INSTALLATION
Step 1: aligning the stabiliser
q Remove the elevator halves and hinges from the stabiliser and set them
aside for now.
q Measure and draw a centreline on the top of the trailing edge of the stabiliser.
q Measure out 32mm (1-1/4") from each side of the centreline and draw two
more marks.
q Slide the stabiliser into the mounting slot and line up the two outer marks
that you drew with the sides of the fuselage.
q When satisfied with the alignment, hold only the trailing edge of the stabiliser
in position, using a piece of masking tape.
IMPORTANT The front of the stabiliser should be able to pivot from side to side slightly and the back should stay firmly in place
and aligned.
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q With the wing panels mounted to the fuselage, use a ruler to measure the
distance between the tips of the stabiliser and the tips of the wing. Pivot the
front of the stabiliser until both of these measurements are equal.
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stabiliser is square to the wing.
q When you're satisfied that the stabiliser is square to the wing, use a pencil to
draw a mark on each side of the front of the stabiliser where it and the fuselage
sides meet, then use a couple of pieces of masking tape to hold the stabiliser
firmly in place and aligned.
q Look from the front of the aircraft at both the wing and the stabiliser. When
aligned properly, the stabiliser should be parallel to the wing.
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IMPORTANT If the stabiliser is out of alignment, use thin shims cut from
scrap plastic, slid between the stabiliser and the fuselage, to make the
stabiliser parallel to the wing.
Step 2: installing the stabiliser
q Once you're satisfied with the alignment, draw a line on each side of the
stabiliser where it meets the fuselage. Do this on both the top and the bottom.
WARNING When cutting through the covering to remove it in the next
procedure, cut with only enough pressure to cut through only the covering
itself. Cutting down into the balsa structure could weaken the stabiliser and
cause it to fail during flight.
q Remove the stabiliser from the fuselage, then carefully cut away the covering
material from inside the lines you drew. Cut away the covering material from
both the top and the bottom of the stabiliser.
PRO TIP Use a heat-sealing iron to adhere the covering material down
where you cut it. This will prevent it from loosening up and wrinkling.
q To make it less messy during installation, apply masking tape to the
fuselage around the side of the mounting slot that the stabiliser will slide into.
Apply masking tape to the top and bottom of the corresponding side of the
stabiliser, too, then partially slide the stabiliser into the mounting slot.
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IMPORTANT Because the stabiliser has to slide into place through the fuselage, apply epoxy only to the stabiliser. This will prevent
the epoxy from spreading over the entire length of one half of the stabiliser when you slide it into place.
q Apply a generous amount of 30 minute epoxy to only the top and bottom gluing surfaces of the stabiliser.
q Push the stabiliser into place and realign it, double-checking all of your measurements once more before the epoxy sets up. Quickly
remove any excess epoxy and use pieces of masking tape to hold the stabiliser in place and aligned until the epoxy has fully cured.
q After the epoxy has fully cured, remove the masking tape and look closely at the glue joint. If there are any gaps between the stabiliser
and the fuselage, fill them using 30 minute epoxy for added strength.
Step 3: hinging the elevator halves and the rudder
q Hinge the elevator halves, using the same techniques that you used to hinge
the ailerons. Each elevator half is hinged using three hinges.
IMPORTANT The hinge gap should be less than 1mm (~1/32").
q Seal the bottom of each elevator hinge gap, using the same techniques that
you used to seal the bottom of the aileron hinge gaps.
q Hinge the rudder, using the same techniques that you used to hinge the
ailerons and the elevator halves. The rudder is hinged using three hinges.
IMPORTANT The hinge gap should be less than 1mm (~1/32"). It's not
necessary to seal the rudder hinge gap.
TAIL WHEEL BRACKET AND MAIN LANDING GEAR INSTALLATION
Step 1: installing the STEERING PIN
q Drill a 13mm (1/2") deep hole centred in the bottom of the rudder. Position
the hole 32mm (1-1/4") behind the rudder hinge line.
q Glue the steering pin into the hole, making sure that 10mm (3/8") of the
steering pin sticks out from the bottom of the rudder.
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Step 2: installing the tail wheel bracket
q Carefully cut off the excess portion of the tail wheel wire so that it's flush with
the tail wheel tiller arm.
IMPORTANT When installing the tail wheel bracket in the next procedure, make sure that the slot in the tiller arm is slipped over
the end of the steering pin.
q Align the tail wheel bracket onto the bottom of the fuselage. When aligned
properly the pivot point of the tiller arm should be even with the rudder hinge line
and the tail wheel bracket should be centred in the middle of the fuselage.
q When satisfied with the alignment, drill three 2mm (5/64") pilot holes
through the fuselage, then install the tail wheel bracket using three M3 x 8mm
wood screws.
q Using a 1.5mm hex wrench, loosen the grub screw in the side of the tiller
arm, line up the tail wheel with the rudder, then tighten the grub screw firmly.
Step 3: installing the preformed MAIN LANDING GEAR
q Install the preformed main landing gear, using three M4 x 16mm socket-cap
screws and three M4 flat washers.
Step 4: installing the MAIN GEAR WHEELS
q Install one threaded axle onto one side of the preformed main landing gear,
using one hex nut. Tighten the hex nut firmly, using a 10mm socket wrench.
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q Slide one main gear wheel onto the axle, then secure the wheel into place,
using one wheel collar and one grub screw.
+Tighten the grub screw firmly, then double-check that the wheel spins
freely.
q Repeat the previous procedures to installed the second threaded axle and main gear wheel.
ELEVATOR CONTROL SYSTEM INSTALLATION
Step 1: installing the ELEVATOR SERVOS
q Plug one 600mm (24") servo extension onto each elevator servo lead.
q To prevent the plugs from pulling apart during assembly, or worse, during flight, secure each of the plugs together, using a short piece
of 10mm (3/8") diameter heat-shrink tubing (not included). Use a heat gun to shrink the tubing.
q Install one elevator servo into the servo tray in each side of the fuselage.
There are predrilled pilot holes for the servo mounting screws, although you
may need to drill new pilot holes if the predrilled holes don't line up with your
particular servos.
IMPORTANT Both servo output shafts should be toward the front of the
fuselage.
IMPORTANT When you run the elevator servo extension leads up to the radio compartment, make sure that the extension leads
won't interfere with the rudder pull-pull cables when they're installed later. Tape them securely to the fuselage to keep them out of the way.
Step 2: installing the ELEVATOR control linkage assemblies
q Position and mark the mounting hole locations for one control horn on
the bottom of the right elevator half. When aligned properly, the centreline of
the control horn should be 16mm (5/8") out from the end of the elevator half
(measured at the hinge line) and the clevis attachment holes should be lined
up over the hinge line.
q Drill 2mm (5/64") diameter pilot holes through the elevator half for the control
horn mounting screws, then apply a couple of drops of thin C/A into the pilot
holes and allow the C/A to fully cure.
IMPORTANT The C/A will harden the surrounding wood, making the
mounting area stronger.
q Install the control horn and backplate, using two M2 x 25mm machine screws. Use wire cutters to cut the screws off flush with the
control horn backplate.
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IMPORTANT The elevator servo mounting positions are set up so that the left-side servo arm points up and the right-side servo
arm points down. This allows both pushrods to move the same direction without have to use a reversed servo or an electronic servo
reverser. Both elevator servos can be joined using a standard Y-Harness.
q Assemble and install one elevator control linkage assembly (on the right
side of the fuselage), using the same techniques that you used to assemble
and install the aileron control linkage assemblies. One clevis should be installed
into the hole that is 19mm (3/4") out from the centre of the servo horn and the
other clevis should be installed into the outermost hole in the control horn.
IMPORTANT The servo horn should be centred and pointing down toward
the bottom of the fuselage.
q Repeat the previous procedures to install the elevator control linkage assembly
on the left side of the fuselage, using the same techniques that you used to
install the elevator control linkage assembly on the right side of the fuselage.
IMPORTANT The servo horn should be centred and pointing up toward
the top of the fuselage.
IMPORTANT Look from the back of the fuselage at the trailing edge of both elevator halves. Slowly move the elevator halves up
and down several times (using the transmitter control stick) to ensure that both elevator halves track evenly together throughout the
whole deflection range. If the elevator halves do not track together (i.e., one moves more than the other though the deflection range),
you will need to adjust the position of the clevis on one of the control linkage until both elevator halves track evenly. It's important that
both elevator halves track evenly together throughout the entire deflection range. If one elevator half moves more than the other, this
will cause the aircraft to roll when it pitches up or down during flight.
RUDDER CONTROL SYSTEM INSTALLATION
Step 1: installing the rudder servo
q Install the rudder servo into the centre mounting hole in the servo tray.
There are predrilled pilot holes for the servo mounting screws, although you
may need to drill new pilot holes if the predrilled holes don't line up with your
particular servo.
IMPORTANT The servo output shaft should be toward the front of the
fuselage.
Step 2: installing the rudder control horn
q Slide the M3 x 55mm threaded rod through the predrilled hole in the rudder,
then slide one M3 flat washer over each end of the threaded rod.
q Thread one M3 hex nut onto each end of the threaded rod, then tighten
them both, making sure to keep the threaded rod centred.
q Apply a couple of drops of thin C/A to the hex nuts to lock them into place.
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q After the C/A fully cures, thread one adjustable control horn onto each end
of the threaded rod, making sure that both control horns are even with the
outside edge of the threaded rod.
Step 3: installing the rudder pull-pull cables
q Using a pair of wire cutters, carefully cut the stranded pull-pull cable exactly
in half.
+If the ends of the cable begin to unravel, use your fingers to twist the ends
back into shape.
q Slide one crimp collet, non-flanged side first, over one end of one cable.
q While holding the collet in place so it doesn't slide off, carefully thread the
same end of the cable through the hole in one threaded coupler.
q Loop the cable around the threaded coupler and slide the end of the cable
back through the crimp collet.
q Carefully squeeze the crimp collet, using a pair of pliers, to lock the cable
into place.
q Apply a couple of drops of thin C/A to the crimp collet. The C/A will "wick"
between the crimp collet and the cable, making the joint even stronger. Do not
omit this procedure.
q Repeat the previous procedures to install the second threaded coupler onto one end of the other length of cable.
IMPORTANT When installed in the next procedure, make sure that the two rudder pull-pull cables are installed under the fuselage
bulkhead cross-braces.
q Thread one 2mm hex nut onto two threaded couplers, then thread one clevis
onto each of the two threaded couplers.
q Feed the plain end of each of the two lengths of pull-pull cable through the
exit slots in the sides of the fuselage and into the servo compartment.
q Snap each clevis into the hole in the adjustable control horns.
q Use a couple of pieces of masking tape, taped between the rudder and the stabiliser, to hold the rudder centred.
q Centre the rudder servo, then install the servo horn onto the servo, making sure that it's centred.
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q Thread one 2mm hex nut onto each of the remaining two threaded couplers,
then thread one clevis onto each threaded coupler and snap the clevises into
the outermost holes in the servo arms.
q Attach the pull-pull cables to the threaded couplers, making sure that the
pull-pull cables are not crossed over each other and that they're running below
the fuselage bulkhead cross-braces.
IMPORTANT Make sure that both lengths of pull-pull cable are pulled tight. There should not be any slack in the pull-pull cables.
Remember to apply a couple of drops of thin C/A to the crimp collets to make the joints even stronger, too.
q Check the tension of the pull-pull cables. To do this do the following: move the rudder control stick to one side. Let the control stick
go and check to see if the rudder returns to centre. Do this a couple of times in each direction. If the rudder does not return to centre,
one or both pull-pull cables are too tight. You can adjust the tension of the pull-pull cables by adjusting the clevises. Ideally, the pull-pull
cables should be as tight as possible, while still allowing the rudder to return to centre. The pull-pull cables should not have slack in
them, yet they should not be so tight that the linkage and/or the servo bind.
ENGINE INSTALLATION
Step 1: installing the engine mounting beams
This section details the installation of the O.S. 1.60 two-stroke engine. Installation of a four-stroke engine uses the same techniques.
Regardless of what type of engine you use, the engine should be mounted on its side.
q Temporarily glue the two engine mounting beams to your engine's mounting
lugs, using a couple of drops of thick C/A.
IMPORTANT The location of the engine is not important at this time. It's
more important that the beams are square to the mounting lugs.
q Line up the engine mounting beams with the preinstalled blind nuts in the
firewall, then temporarily install the four M4 x 25mm socket-cap screws and
four M4 flat washers.
q Carefully centre the engine mounting beams, then firmly tighten the four
socket‑cap screws to secure the engine mounting beams into place.
Step 2: installing your engine
q Temporarily install your spinner backplate onto your engine's crankshaft,
using the propeller washer and nut included with your engine.
q Set your engine onto the engine mounting beams, then measure the distance
from the firewall to the back of your spinner backplate. Adjust the depth of the
engine so that the measurement is 140mm (5-1/2").
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q Mark the locations of the engine mounting holes onto the engine mounting
beams, then drill 4.5mm (11/64") diameter holes through the engine mounting
beams at the marks you drew.
q Install your engine onto the engine mounting beams using four M4 x 35mm
machine screws, four M4 flat washers, four M4 split washers and four M4
lock nuts.
THROTTLE CONTROL SYSTEM INSTALLATION
Step 1: installing the throttle servo
q Install the throttle servo into mounting hole in the right side of the servo tray.
There are predrilled pilot holes for the servo mounting screws, although you
may need to drill new pilot holes if the predrilled holes don't line up with your
particular servo.
IMPORTANT The servo output shaft should be toward the back of the
fuselage.
Step 2: installing the throttle pushrod housing and threaded pushrod
q Drill a 3mm (1/8") diameter hole through the firewall for the pushrod housing.
+You will need to remove your engine to make it easier to drill the hole
accurately.
IMPORTANT Drill the hole as close to the same height as the throttle arm
as possible to prevent having to make bends in the pushrod wire. Make sure
that you drill the hole high enough to clear the fuel tank support floor, too.
q Cut the pushrod housing to a length of 521mm (20-1/2"), then test-fit and glue
the pushrod housing to the firewall.
q Thread the clevis onto the pushrod wire, then slide the threaded pushrod into
the pushrod housing and attach the clevis to your engine's throttle arm.
q Open and close the carburetor several times to ensure that the pushrod
does not bind. You may need to make a shallow bend or two in the pushrod
so that it lines up better with the throttle arm.
Step 3: installing the adjustable pushrod connector
q Install the adjustable pushrod connector into the hole in the servo arm that
is 13mm (1/2") out from the centre of the servo horn, making sure not to tighten
the hex nut too tightly. You don't want the pushrod connector loose, but it should
be able to rotate without binding.
IMPORTANT To prevent the nut from loosening during flight, apply a drop
of thin C/A to it.
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q Connect your radio system and check that the throttle servo output shaft is rotating in the correct direction, then position the throttle
control stick and the throttle trim lever to their lowest positions.
q Slide the adjustable pushrod connector assembly onto the pushrod, then
install the servo horn onto the servo, making sure that it's angled approximately
30 degrees from centre.
q While holding the carburetor fully closed, install and tighten the grub screw
in the adjustable pushrod connector.
q Cut away the excess pushrod, then install and tighten the servo horn retaining screw to hold the servo horn securely to the servo.
q Glue the pushrod housing to the top of the wing joiner tube mounting sleeve to help keep the pushrod assembly from flexing.
q Open and close the throttle several times to ensure that the carburetor opens and closes completely. You may need to adjust your
transmitter EPA settings to achieve perfect settings.
FUEL TANK ASSEMBLY AND INSTALLATION
Step 1: ASSEMBLING THE FUEL TANK
IMPORTANT If you're using a fueling valve, one of the 90º tubes included with the fuel tank is not used. If you're not using an
fueling valve, use both 90º tubes in the stopper assembly - one for the vent tube and the second for the fill tube.
q Assemble the fuel tank stopper assembly, using one straight tube and one
90º tube. The straight tube is the fuel pick-up tube and the 90º tube is the
vent tube.
IMPORTANT When the stopper assembly is installed in the fuel tank the
fuel pick-up should be able to move around freely within the fuel tank.
q Install the stopper assembly into the fuel tank, making sure that the 90º vent
tube is positioned toward the top of the fuel tank.
IMPORTANT The top of the fuel tank is a shorter distance from the fuel
tank opening than the bottom.
Step 2: installing THE FUEL TANK
q Install the fuel tank, making sure that the top of the fuel tank is toward the
top of the fuselage and that the front of the fuel tank fits into the predrilled hole
in the firewall and is pushed forward as far as possible.
q Secure the fuel tank into place, using two nylon cable-ties wrapped through
the two precut slots in the fuel tank support floor.
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q Test-fit and glue the firewall support plate to the top of the engine mounting
box, using a generous amount of epoxy.
COWL INSTALLATION
Step 1: installing the cowl mounting brackets
q Install the four cowl mounting brackets onto the firewall, making sure that
the end of each mounting bracket is flush with the surface of the fuselage. Use
eight M3 x 10mm wood screws to secure the cowl mounting brackets into place.
IMPORTANT Position each cowl mounting bracket directly opposite the
corners of the engine mounting box - approximately the 2 o'clock, 4 o'clock,
8 o'clock and 10 o'clock positions.
Step 2: aligning the cowl
IMPORTANT Use the simple procedures in this section to make it easy to accurately position and drill the cowl mounting holes so
that they line up with the cowl mounting blocks.
q Draw a line on the fuselage that extends back from the centre of each cowl
mounting bracket. Use a small square (builder's triangle) to ensure that each
line is perpendicular to the front of the fuselage.
q Install your spinner backplate onto your engine, then slide the cowl over
the fuselage. When aligned properly, the back edge of the cowl (at the top)
should be even with the front edge of the cockpit opening and the front of the
cowl should be centred around your spinner backplate.
q When satisfied with the alignment, hold the cowl firmly in place using pieces
of masking tape.
q Use a straight edge to extend each of the four lines you drew previously
onto the cowl.
q Draw a mark on the fuselage, directly behind the back edge of the cowl,
intersecting each of the four lines you drew on the fuselage originally.
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q Remove the cowl and measure forward from each of the marks you drew
to outline the back edge of the cowl to the centre of the cowl mounting block,
then transfer each of these measurements onto the cowl to position the
mounting holes.
q Drill four 4mm (5/32") diameter holes through the cowl, then mount the cowl
using four M4 x 15mm wood screws to double-check the fit.
q Remove the cowl and cut out the areas necessary to clear your muffler,
access your engine's needle valves, fuel filler valve, engine cooling, etc.
q Install your muffler, then connect your fuel lines and fuel valve, then reinstall
the cowl, along with your propeller and spinner.
FINAL ASSEMBLY
Step 1: installing the dashboard
q Cut out the dashboard along the moulded bottom radius, then sand the
edges smooth and straight.
q Test-fit and glue the dashboard the top of the canopy frame, making sure
that's it's centred. When positioned properly, the front of the dashboard should
be 105mm (4-1/8") back from the front edge of the canopy.
q Install the canopy, making sure that both hatch latches hold the canopy
securely in place.
Step 2: installing the receiver, battery and switch harness
q Wrap the receiver and battery in foam rubber to protect them from vibration. After you've found the final location of the receiver and
battery, mount them into the fuselage using your favorite method.
Cut
Remove This
Portion
Servo
Horn
Rubber Band
q After installing the receiver, run the antenna out the bottom of the fuselage
and secure it to the tail wheel wire using a rubber band and an antenna mount
made from an extra servo horn.
Antenna
Modified Servo Arm
To Tail Wheel Wire
q Mount the switch to the fuselage side and connect the battery lead to the switch, and the switch and servo leads to the receiver.
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AIRCRAFT SETUP INFORMATION
balance point
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100MM (4") back from the leading edge of the wing, measured at the fuselage sides.
q Turn the aircraft upside down, place your fingers on the wing at the balance point, and carefully lift the aircraft. If the nose of the
aircraft drops, the aircraft is nose heavy. To correct this, move the battery and/or receiver back far enough to bring the aircraft into
balance. If the tail of the aircraft drops, the aircraft is tail heavy. To correct this, move the battery and/or receiver forward far enough to
bring the aircraft into balance. When balanced correctly, the aircraft should sit level or slightly nose down when you lift it up with your
fingers at the C/G location.
IMPORTANT Balance the aircraft with the fuel tank empty. Depending on the engine chosen, you may need to add some weight
to balance the aircraft.
+Once you have flown and become familiar with the flight characteristics of the aircraft, the C/G can be moved fore or aft to change
the flight performance. Moving the C/G back will cause the aircraft to be more responsive, but less stable. Moving the C/G forward will
cause the aircraft to be more stable, but less responsive.
PRO TIP The C/G location listed above works well for initial test-flying, but does result in needing about 20% of down elevator to
hold level inverted flight. The C/G can be moved back approximately 5mm~10mm (3/16"~3/8") more to improve level inverted flight
and aerobatic capability.
lateral balancing
Lateral balancing will make the aircraft's controls easier to trim and will make the aircraft track straighter in the air. It is strongly
recommended.
q Turn the aircraft upside down and tie one length of string to the propeller shaft and loop a second length of string around the tail wheel.
q With someone helping you, carefully lift the aircraft up by the two pieces of string. Watch how the wing reacts. If one side of the wing
drops, that side is heavier than the other. To correct this condition, stick a small piece of self-adhesive lead weight to the bottom of the
lighter wing half (the one that doesn't drop). For best mechanical advantage, place the weight as close to the wing tip as possible, but
make sure to apply the lead weight to a solid portion of the wing structure so that it can't rip off during flight.
q Repeat the procedure a couple of more times to double-check your findings. When done properly the wing should stay level when
you lift the aircraft.
control throws and exponential
We recommend initially setting up the aircraft using the settings listed below. These settings are suggested for initial test flying because
they will allow the aircraft to fly smoother and make it easier to control. Once you're familiar with the flight characteristics of the aircraft,
increase the control throws in small increments and add exponential to suit your flying style.
TEST FLYING
Ailerons:
25mm (1") Up and 25mm (1") Down
Elevator:
35mm (1-3/8") Up and 35mm (1-3/8") Down
Rudder:
75mm (3") Right and 75mm (3") Left
The control throws are measured from
the widest point of the control surfaces
Expo, as it's more commonly referred to, softens the control feel around neutral. This is especially helpful when flying an aircraft that
uses a lot of control throw. Softening the neutral point makes the aircraft fly more smoothly and makes it more likely that you won't
over-control. Please note that different brands of radio control systems may call for + or - Expo. Please check your transmitter's owners
manual for more info.
AEROBATIC FLYING
EXPONENTIAL
Ailerons:
35mm (1-3/8") Up and 35mm (1-3/8") Down
Ailerons......................................... 30%
Elevator:
45mm (1-3/4") Up and 45mm (1-3/4") Down
Elevator......................................... 20%
Rudder:
75mm (3") Right and 75mm (3") Left
Rudder........................................... 40%
VERY IMPORTANT After you are finished adjusting the control linkage assemblies and the control throws, we strongly suggest
installing 10mm (3/8") long lengths of silicone fuel tubing over the clevises to prevent any chance of them opening during flight.
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CONTROL SURFACE LINKAGES
If you don't maintain the proper mechanical advantage on the control surfaces, control surface flutter may result, which can cause your
aircraft to lose control and crash. Mechanical advantage refers to the distance that the pushrod attachment points (pivot points) are
from the servos and the control surfaces.
Keeping the pushrods as close to the centre of the servo arms as possible will increase the servo's resolution. What this means is that
when you move the control sticks on the transmitter, the servo arms will have to travel farther to achieve the desired amount of control
input. This makes the resolution higher, therefore causing the control surface deflection to be more precise. We don't recommend
moving the pushrods any farther away from the centre of the servo arms than absolutely necessary.
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Keeping the pushrods as far away as possible from the control surfaces is better than moving them closer. The mechanical advantage is
greatly reduced the closer the pushrods are moved toward the control surfaces. We don't recommend moving the pushrods any closer
to the control surfaces than absolutely necessary.
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throttle management
It is very important that you understand throttle management. Basically, this means no full throttle dives. Full throttle dives should be
avoided so as not to cause control surface flutter and/or airframe failure. When the nose of the aircraft drops, decrease the throttle, just
as in full-scale aerobatics.
PRE-FLIGHT CHECK AND SAFETY
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Completely charge the transmitter and receiver batteries before your first day of flying.
Check every bolt and every glue joint in the aircraft to ensure that everything is tight and well-bonded. This should include all of the
control surface hinges as well.
Double-check that you've installed and tightened all of the servo horn retaining screws.
Double-check that the receiver and battery are properly secured into place. There's nothing worse than the battery pack coming loose
during flight.
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Double-check that the fuel tank is properly secured to the fuselage.
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Double-check the balance of the aircraft. Do this with the fuel tank empty.
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Check the control surfaces. They should all move in the correct direction and not bind.
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Make sure that you've installed silicone fuel tubing over the clevises to prevent any chance of them opening during flight.
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If your radio transmitter is equipped with dual rate switches, double-check that they are on the low-rate setting for your first few flights.
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Check to ensure that all of the control surfaces are moving the proper amount in both low and high rate settings.
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Check the receiver antenna. It should be fully extended and not coiled up inside the fuselage. Do not cut the receiver antenna shorter
or the range of your radio control system will be greatly reduced.
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Properly balance the propeller and spinner. A propeller or spinner that is out of balance will cause excessive vibration, which could
lead to engine and/or airframe failure, and it will reduce engine efficiency and power.
Double-check that no part of the spinner touches the propeller. You may need to enlarge the spinner cutouts to fit.
Do not fly your model higher than approximately 400 feet within 3 miles of an airport without having an observer with you. The observer
should tell you about any full-size aircraft in your vicinity and you should always give the right-of-way to full-scale aircraft.
When flying at a flying field with established rules, you should abide by those rules. You should not deliberately fly your model in a
reckless and/or dangerous manner.
While flying, you should not deliberately fly behind the flight line. If your model should inadvertently fly behind the flight line, you should
change course immediately.
You should complete a successful range check of your radio equipment prior to each new day of flying, or prior to the first flight of a
new or repaired model.
You should perform your initial turn after take-off away from the flight line and/or spectator area.
You should not knowingly operate your R/C radio system within 3 miles of a pre-existing model club flying field without a frequency
sharing agreement with that club.
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AIRCRAFT TRIM CHART
After you have test-flown and done the initial trim changes to the aircraft, use this trimming chart to begin trimming your aircraft. Following
and adhering to this chart will result in the ability to diagnose trim problems and correct those problems using the simple adjustments
shown below. Making these observations and related corrections will result in an aircraft that tracks straighter and flies truer.
TRIM FEATURE
MANOEUVRE
OBSERVATION
CORRECTION
Readjust linkages so the transmitter trim
levers are centred
Control Centreing
Fly general circles and random
manoeuvres
Try for hands off straight and level
flight
Control Throws
Fly random manoeuvres
A) Controls are too sensitive or If A) A d j u s t l i n k a g e s t o r e d u c e aircraft feels "jerky"
control throws
B) Controls are not sensitive enough or aircraft feels "mushy"
Engine Thrust Angle*
Centre of Gravity
Yaw**
From straight and level flight, quickly
chop the throttle for a short distance
From level flight, roll to a 45º bank and
neutralise the controls
Into the wind, perform inside loops
using only elevator. Repeat test
performing outside loops from an
inverted entry
If B) Adjust linkages to increase control throws
A) A i r c r a f t c o n t i n u e s i n a l e v e l If A) Engine thrust angle is correct
attitude for a short distance
B) Aircraft pitches nose up
If B) Decrease engine down thrust
C) Aircraft pitches nose down
If C) Increase engine down thrust
A) Aircraft continues in the bank for If A) Centre of gravity is correct
a short distance
B) Nose pitches up
If B) Add nose weight
C) Nose pitches down
If C) Remove nose weight or add tail weight
A) Wing is level throughout
If A) Trim settings are correct
B) Aircraft yaws to right in both inside and outside loops
If B) Add left rudder trim
C) Aircraft yaws to left in both inside and outside loops
If C) Add right rudder trim
D) Aircraft yaws to the right in inside loops and yaws to the left in outside loops
If D) Add left aileron trim
E) Aircraft yaws to the left in inside If E) Add right aileron trim
loops and yaws to the right in outside loops
Lateral Balance**
Aileron Control System
Into the wind, perform tight inside loops
using only elevator
With the wing level, pull to a vertical
climb and neutralise the controls
A) Wing is level and airc r a f t falls If A) Lateral balance is correct
to either side
B) A i r craft f a l l s o f f t o t h e l e f t . Worsens as loops tighten
If B) Add weight to right wing tip
C) Aircraft falls off to the right. Worsens as loops tighten
If C) Add weight to left wing tip
A) Climb continues along the same If A) Trim settings are correct
path
B) Nose tends to go toward an inside loop
If B) Raise both ailerons very slightly
C) N o s e t e n d s t o g o t o w a r d a n outside loop
If C) Lower both ailerons very slightly
*Engine thrust angle and centre of gravity interact. Check both.
**Yaw and lateral balance produce similar symptoms. Right and left references are as if you were in the cockpit.
Page 22
FLYING TIPS
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Takeoff generally requires no more than 50% power. The aircraft tracks straight and requires very little rudder correction during the
takeoff roll using this power setting.
Aileron response is very rapid and a little sensitive close to centre. Using an exponential setting of approximately 30% makes
precision flying a lot easier.
The elevator is powerful and can be a little sensitive close to centre. Using an exponential setting of approximately 20% will make
small input corrections easier.
There are generally no tendencies to deviate from normal flight until radical control inputs are made. There can be a slight tendency
to "flick" at high elevator inputs that are made very quickly. Lessening the elevator control throw can alleviate this.
Stall turns to the left are very easy. Stall turns to the right are more easily done with the throttle nearly closed.
Knife edge flight may require a slight amount of up elevator to keep the aircraft from tucking. This can be alleviated by using
elevator-rudder mixing.
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With the aircraft in a spin (either upright or inverted), releasing the control throws results in instant recovery.
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Inverted flight may require some down elevator input to hold level flight. This can be alleviated by moving the C/G back.
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Landing is very predictable and stable, even at slow speeds. With the engine throttled back, there is quite a bit of drag, so it's best to
hold some power over the threshold and decrease power just before touchdown.
THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY LEFT BLANK
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OUR GUARANTEE
Advanced Scale Models guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This does not cover
any component parts damaged by use, misuse or modification. In no case shall Advanced Scale Models' liability exceed the original cost of the
purchased kit.
In that Advanced Scale Models has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed for any damage
resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the final user-assembled product, the user accepts all
resulting liability.
proudly distributed by:
In the USA
In the EU
Global Services
18480 Bandilier Circle
Fountain Valley, CA 92708
Phone: (714) 963-0329
Fax: (714) 964-6236
Email: [email protected]
Ripmax Ltd.
241 Green Street
Enfield, EN3 7SJ, U.K.
Phone: +44(0) 20 8282 7500
Fax: +44(0) 20 8282 7501
Email: [email protected]
Page 24
In Australia
Model Engines (Aust.) PTY. LTD.
P.O. Box 828, Noble Park,
VIC., 3174
www.modelengines.com.au