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Tasting
Room
appellation
30
turning
The Yakima Valley AVA celebrates
its 30th anniversary as the Pacific
Northwest’s inaugural wine region
P h o to: M i k e S a u e r
writer
I
T WAS THE YEAR mobile phones
(now called cell phones) hit the market,
Michael Jackson’s “Thriller” album
went platinum, and the most popular
home computer was Radio Shack’s Tandy
2000. At the same time, another event was
brewing early in 1983 that would shape the
future of wine in Washington State—the
Yakima Valley was designated the first
American Viticultural Area (AVA) in the
Pacific Northwest.
Many wine buffs don’t realize the
Yakima Valley was an appellation before
the larger “umbrella” Columbia Valley
AVA. It’s just two years younger than Napa
Valley AVA, California’s first appellation.
It was a game changer back then. The
new status brought a boom in vineyard
plantings during the 1980’s and wineries
began to swell up in its wake. Today a
tsunami of wine is produced in the Yakima
Valley AVA, accounting for a colossal 40%
of the state’s total wine production.
Fruit from this highly regarded region
is also used in wines from every corner of
Washington, even Oregon and Idaho. It's
the second largest appellation in the state
and within its immense breadth are diverse
soils, topography and microclimates where
nearly any kind of grape can ripen.
John Vitale
The Monsignor Chapel sits atop
Red Willow Vineyard and overlooks the
western end of the Yakima Valley near
the town of White Swan
appellation
Just another crop
Jim Holmes and Ken Williams (top)
take turns with Scott Williams
(bottom) crushing grapes during
Kiona Winery's 1978 harvest
Grower Mike Sauer started planting
wine grapes in 1973. His Red Willow
Vineyard is home to some of the oldest
vines in the state.
“At the time it was just another
agricultural crop along with wheat, hay
and Concord grapes,” he says. “Since
that time we have evolved from (table)
grape grower to winegrower, with the
emphasis changing from producing tons
of grapes to producing quality wines.”
Dr. Walter Clore, along with his
assistant George Carter, planted a plot
of 20 different varieties at Red Willow
Vineyard in 1973. “George made wines
from this fruit, as well as from several
locations around the state, to evaluate
regional suitability for wine grape
production. The only keeper from this
plot was Cabernet Franc, which we
went on to expand commercially in
1985,” Sauer recalls.
Sauer went on to plant the first
Nebbiolo in the state in 1985, a
crucial turning point. “This one-acre
Nebbiolo planting event was really the
beginning of Red Willow’s pioneer
effort with many varieties,” he explains.
“David Lake of Columbia Winery
suggested that an even better variety
for the state would be Syrah, so the
following year Red Willow planted
the first Syrah in the state. During
and shortly after this time period,
40 W a s h i n g t o n T a s t i n g R o o m . c o m Red Willow would go on to plant
Cabernet Franc, Sangiovese, Viognier,
Tempranillo and Malbec.”
— MIKE SAUER, Red Willow Vineyard
Early hobby shop
Jim Holmes, of Ciel du Cheval
Vineyard fame, planted his first grapes
on Red Mountain in 1975, with help
from John Williams of Kiona Vineyard,
his partner at the time. “30 years ago
the valley was largely a ‘hobby shop,’
except of course for Columbia Winery
and Chateau Ste. Michelle. Now it’s a
major industry,” says Holmes.
Bucking the experts
Longtime valley grower and
winemaker Paul Portteus took a keen
interest in the Yakima Valley a month
after the cataclysmic eruption of Mount
St. Helens in 1980. “We had previously
been looking in Napa and Sonoma. We
thought there would be lots of property
for sale due to people wanting to sell
out because of the volcano, but boy
were we wrong,” he says.
Hunting for the right piece of
land, Portteus soon encountered the
conventional belief at the time that only
certain white varietals could thrive
in the Pacific Northwest climate. He
recalls, “Our realtor was an old cowboy
who knew just about everyone in the
valley. He spent days driving us around
to meet anyone he knew who was
growing wine grapes, which were few
and far between. I can’t recall who it
was, but I do recall the conversation:
‘You know, if you want to sell wine
grapes you better grow Riesling, and
if you want to go out on a limb, try
Chenin Blanc!’”
Against the advice of experts,
Portteus planted eight acres that
included Cabernet Sauvignon,
Chardonnay and Merlot in 1982. “We
continued to confound them with our
planting Zinfandel in 1984, and many
others since,” he says.
Uncharted future
During these formative years, Dr.
Walter Clore, the Father of Washington
Wine, had a profound influence on
many growers, including Dick Boushey.
“Walt Clore and his assistant George
Carter, who both worked at the WSU
ABOVE The planting group of the state's first Nebbiolo at Red Willow Vineyard in 1985, (from left)
Joe Ramsier, Pam Hinkley, Jerry Reeves, Mike Manos, Peter Dow, Karen and Mike Sauer
P h o to s: M i k e S a u e r
Three sub-appellations rest inside
the Yakima Valley AVA boundary lines:
Rattlesnake Hills, Red Mountain and
Snipes Mountain. Including
these AVA’s, the number
of wineries and
●
RATTlEsNAkE
Yakima
tasting rooms
HIlls AVA
tally around
RED MOUNTAIN
Zillah
125, ranking
yakima
AVA
●
Yakima
valley ava
Benton
Tri-Cities Valley among
City ●
the top
82
●
●
wine
touring
sNIpEs
Prosser
destinations in
MOUNTAIN AVA
the entire Pacific
Northwest.
The Yakima Valley, along with much
of Eastern Washington, has a long
history as a farm belt, but wine grapes
were still relatively scarce three or four
decades ago.
“This one-acre Nebbiolo planting event was really the
beginning of Red Willow’s pioneer effort with many varieties.”
P h o to s: K i o n a W i n e r y
Tasting
Room
Prosser research center, were two people
that encouraged me to get into the
wine grape business. Their knowledge,
personalities and enthusiasm are still
with me today,” he says.
With their help, Boushey planted
one acre on an experimental basis that
consisted of eight different varieties
in 1977, followed up in 1980 by his
first commercial block of Cabernet
Sauvignon, Merlot and Chenin Blanc.
With boots in the vineyard since
the Yakima Valley AVA was formed,
Boushey comments about the biggest
changes he’s seen over the years.
“Outside of the tremendous growth
of acres planted and wineries, I would
say the skill and knowledge level of
growers and winemakers has increased
phenomenally,” he says, adding, “We
have a better understanding of the
terroir in the Yakima Valley that helps
us decide where the best sites are
located and which varieties best match
those sites.”
Boushey remembers tasting
Washington wines alongside top wines
from around the world while attending
the World Vinifera Conference held
in Seattle many years ago. “This
convinced me that we could grow great
grapes here and make great wines,” he
says.
The future of Washington wine
remains bright and uncharted. One can
only wonder what will happen in the
next 30 years.
RIGHT George Carter and Dr. Walter Clore,
The Father of Washington Wine, at Red Willow
Vineyard circa 1988 BELOW Grower Dick
Boushey of Boushey Vineyards in Grandview
Tasting
Room
people
Rob Griffin of
Barnard Griffin
Bookwalter
Winery founder
Jerrold
Bookwalter
Mike
Wallace of
Hinzerling
Winery
Kristina Mielkevan Löben Sels
of Arbor Crest
Meet a dozen vintners whose families have been at the helm
for 30 years or more. We ask them about the changes
they've seen and what the future holds for these...
TrailBlazers
of Washington Wine
A
s part of our special coverage of Washington State’s 30th anniversary of its first appellation,
this issue wouldn’t be complete without honoring a special group of individuals who have been at
the forefront of their respective wineries for decades. Meet the original founders, and in a couple
instances, second or third generation family members, whose daily dose of elbow grease has literally proved
to be the sustaining force that has guided some of the state's oldest wineries for 30 years or longer. These
pioneers have been quietly making history so the rest of us can sip world class wines. You’ll hear, in their
own words, about the biggest changes they’ve witnessed, as well as their accomplishments and what the
future holds for them. –The Editor
Arbor Crest Wine Cellars
Winery founded: 1982
Owner & winemaker: Kristina Mielke-van Löben Sels
Greatest change? The greatest change that I have
seen over the years is the increased growth in the wine
industry, in both wineries and wine consumers. I am
amazed at the number of wineries that pop up every year.
But along with that, we have seen an increased number
of consumers, especially in the younger market segment
of 21-25 year olds.
Greatest accomplishment? Continuing the legacy
of our second generation family-owned winery
that continues to produce handcrafted wines while
maintaining our strict level of quality, all the while having
fun in the process. In addition, I feel incredibly proud of
the fact that we have passed our 30 year benchmark in
this somewhat challenging industry.
42 W a s h i n g t o n T a s t i n g R o o m . c o m Future? I am looking forward to building a new winery that
fits all of our current needs, combined with an event facility
that captures the winery experience. The current facility
was designed for our family’s cherry processing plant that
was designed in the 1950’s. While we have successfully
converted it into a functional winery, there are many design
ideas and improvements that I would like to make. This will
be an incredible project and I am hoping to start on it in the
next few years.
Barnard Griffin
Winery founded: 1983
Founder & winemaker: Rob Griffin
Greatest change? Perhaps it’s the enormous growth of
the Washington Industry. In 1977 when I started making
wine in Washington there were fewer than 10 wineries,
now the number is approaching 800. We had to do real
John Bookwalter
of J. Bookwalter
Winery & Bistro
missionary work for Washington wines back in the 1970’s
and 1980’s before they were generally accepted.
Greatest accomplishment? We have won many awards
and accolades over the years, achieved huge growth
and modest financial success. At the end of the day,
the accomplishment I am proudest of is building one of
Washington’s largest strictly family-owned wineries while
raising a family and keeping a rational balance between
business and home life. I’m really excited that both of our
daughters have joined the company and that we offer
employment to over a dozen people at the winery and
many more in our various vineyards. Future? I’m looking forward to continued quality
improvement and recognition for Washington wine. In my
36 years in Washington there have been enormous leaps in
both quality and recognition for the industry but we’re only
about half way there. I hope to see lots of progress in the
next thirty years!
Chinook Wines
Winery founded: 1983
Founders: Clay Mackey & Kay Simon
Winemaker: Kay Simon
Greatest change? When we first joined the Washington
wine industry in the late 1970’s, we knew every grower,
every winemaker, every researcher and everyone who
was writing about wine and agriculture. We used to join
together for tastings, often hosted at Preston Wine Cellars
in Pasco, and there would be approximately 40 to 50
people in the room. Today, the most difficult thing to grasp
is that it’s impossible to know everyone, since the number
of industry members has increased exponentially.
Greatest accomplishment? That we were able to
establish a highly efficient, functioning winery without
having many financial resources. We built up the winery
slowly, with physical help from family and friends, but
mostly from sheer perseverance. We were young enough
to have the physical stamina to do much of the work
ourselves. Because we have never had a business partner,
other than the two of us, we can say that we built the
winery from ‘scratch’. Also, we have helped to define
Cabernet Franc in Washington—both as a red wine and
a dry Rosé wine.
Kay Simon and Clay Mackey
of Chinook Wines
Future? We’re looking forward to continued friendships
with many folks we have met through our business. Many
chefs, restaurateurs and wine shop proprietors count
among our good friends, and we have shared many an
enjoyable meal with them. We look forward to many
more (meals with friends), and will feel fortunate if our
good health continues.
Hinzerling Winery
Winery founded: 1976
Founder & winemaker: Mike Wallace
Greatest change? The growth and vitality of the industry.
Far beyond what I predicted in the 1980’s.
Greatest accomplishment? Being a successful
winegrower and wine producer when little was known
about the obstacles that needed to be overcome in every
area, including cold winters and high acid wines.
I am particularly proud of being an initiator and founding
officer of many of the institutions and activities that are
taken for granted today, including the Washington Wine
Institute, Washington Wine Commission, Spring Barrel
Tasting, the Prosser Wine and Food Fair, and Wine Yakima
Valley. I have been teaching winemaking at Yakima Valley
Community College for the last five years and am especially
proud of sending my students into the industry well
prepared. (Editor’s note: see the story on Yakima Valley
Community College Teaching Winery inside this issue.)
Future? I plan to finish up some wines in progress and
sell them, teach for another year or two and then do some
consulting.
J. Bookwalter Winery & Bistro
Winery founded: 1983
Founder: Jerrold R. Bookwalter
Owner & winemaker: John Bookwalter
Greatest change? Under son’s capable management,
tremendous retail presence and success.
Greatest accomplishment? Converting from a white
wine dominated product line to an outstanding product
lineup of predominately red wines.
Future? To see a world class wine tourism industry
W a s h i n g t o n T a s t i n g R o o M . c o m 43
Tasting
Room
Scott Williams
of Kiona Winery
Mike Conway
of Latah Creek
develop throughout Washington State that includes
unique winery and vineyard experiences, fine dining and
exceptional overnight accommodations. Kiona Vineyards & Winery
Winery founded: 1980 • Vineyard planted: 1975
Owner & general manager: Scott Williams
Greatest change? The proliferation of wineries, vineyards
and people involved in the industry. When Kiona Vineyards
and winery started making wine in 1980, there were maybe
15 wineries in the state and there was not a single winerelated academic wine program in the state. There are now
two four-year programs and several community college
programs all supported by a world class research program.
Greatest accomplishment? Surviving long enough to
reap the rewards of a lifetime of hard work. With my father
John Williams and his original partner Jim Holmes, Kiona
planted the first vineyard in the area that is now known as
the Red Mountain AVA. Kiona also opened Red Mountain’s
first winery in 1980 and in 1983 was one of the founding
four wineries of the Yakima Valley AVA. As a family-owned
and operated business, we have grown from humble
origins making wine in a garage, to a world class operation
that sells its wine in selected markets throughout the world.
Future? When (son) JJ Williams joined the team in 2009
as the sales and marketing director, Kiona Vineyards and
Winery became perhaps the only Washington winery
entering its third generation of family operation. We have
enjoyed the journey and look forward to making fine
Washington wine from the Yakima Valley for generations to
come.
Latah Creek Wine Cellars
Winery founded: 1982
Founder & winemaker: Mike Conway
Greatest change? Competition. When I arrived in
Washington State in 1980, there were only 17 active
wineries in the State and 1,100 in the country. Today there
are over 750 in Washington and 11,000 in the country.
Combine this with the imports from South America and
Australia that weren’t present then, and it can be seen that
competition has increased astronomically. 44 W a s h i n g t o n T a s t i n g R o o m . c o m Marty Clubb
of L'Ecole N° 41
Brent Preston
of Preston
Premium
Wines
Chris Figgins of
Leonetti Cellar
Greatest accomplishment? My greatest
accomplishment for the Washington wine industry came
during my three year term on the Washington Wine
Institute Board, two of which were as Board President,
starting in 1989. The dues and fee structure used today
for Washington Wine Institute members is still based on
a sliding, size related scale that I brought forward and
approved during my term. Also during my term, I worked
closely with Speaker of the House, Tom Foley, to thwart an
attempt to raise federal alcohol tax levels by nearly 700%.
Even though the taxes were increased, we were able to
get an exception included which exempted all wineries
producing less than 100,000 gallons per year, saving a
10,000-gallon-per-year winery $9,000 in annual taxes. Future? Even though I don’t anticipate ever fully retiring, I
look forward to scaling back somewhat in the future, while
passing the reins on to our daughter, Natalie. She has
been working side by side with me for nearly seven years
now and is ready to take over tomorrow if necessary.
l'Ecole n° 41
Winery founded: 1983
Owner & managing winemaker: Marty Clubb
Greatest change? The enormous growth in size and
recognition of the Walla Walla Valley wine industry. Thirty
years ago there were only three wineries (including L’Ecole)
growing to more than 150 licensed wineries today. L’Ecole
has grown from a one thousand case brand in the 1980’s
to approximately 40,000 cases annually today.
Greatest accomplishment? I am proud to have worked
with a small group of wine industry people in the founding
of the Walla Walla Valley Wine Alliance and the Walla Walla
Community College Center for Enology and Viticulture.
Both of these organizations have contributed greatly to the
growth and respect of the Walla Walla Valley wine region.
Future? Making wines from our newest sustainably
farmed Estate Ferguson Vineyard in the Walla Walla Valley.
leonetti cellar
Winery founded: 1977
Winemaking director & president: Chris Figgins Rick Small of
Woodward Canyon
Greatest change? The maturation of our wine industry
from cottage to a driving force attracting talent from
around the world.
Greatest accomplishment? Converting us from a 90%
purchased business model to 100% estate grown owning
six vineyards. It was an enormous challenge financially
and tactically. Future? The evolution of what varieties we can grow
outside of Bordeaux varieties and other mainstream
grapes. I have Aglianico just coming into production that
I am enormously excited about. The experimental nature
of Washington with new grapes and (planting) sites is still
what fires me up. Preston Premium Wines
Winery founded: 1976
Owner: Brent Preston
Greatest change? The growth! We were the third
licensed winery in Washington State in 1976. Now the
state is approaching close to 800.
Greatest accomplishment? My dad, S.W. (Bill)
Preston, was the pioneer in planting and bottling the
varietal Merlot in Washington State.
Future? Expanding our family business, now in third
generation, with a new facility on our property that will
offer a variety of merchandise: A wine tasting area, fresh
produce, gift shop, eatery, Northwest microbrews, etc.
woodward canyon winery
Winery founded: 1981 • Vineyard planted: 1977
Founder & co-owner: Rick Small
Greatest change? The change in climate. When I
first planted Chardonnay in 1977, I selected a south
facing slope; in 2011, I planted another small block of
Chardonnay on the highest, steepest north facing slope I
have on our farm.
Greatest accomplishment? As a third generation
farmer, my greatest personal accomplishment is
discovering and successfully developing sustainable
vertical integration of our family’s farm—grapevine to
bottle to table.
people
John Rauner of
Yakima River Winery
Future? I’m looking forward to integrating sustainably
grown food into our wine business. I am also looking at
lowering our overall carbon footprint as we do this.
Yakima River Winery
Winery founded: 1977
Founders & owners: John and Louise Rauner
Greatest accomplishment? John was the first Wine
Commissioner with the Department of Agriculture and
also Chairman for the first appellation, the Yakima Valley.
Louise and John founded the Yakima Valley Winegrowers
Association in 1982. John worked to get road signs for the
industry.
Future? With Louise and John in their mid-seventies, we
are looking forward to traveling and retirement.
washington state wineries
Celebrating 30+ years
Winery
Winery
Year
Arbor Crest Wine Cellars 1982
Year
J. Bookwalter Winery
1983
Bainbridge Island Winery 1977
Kiona Vineyards
1980
Barnard Griffin
1983
Latah Creek Wine Cellars
1982
Chateau Ste. Michelle
1967
L’Ecole N° 41
1983
Chinook Wines
1983
Leonetti Cellar
1977
Columbia Winery
1962
Mt. Baker Vineyards
1982
Covey Run
1982
Olympic Cellars
1979
Coventry Vale Winery
1983
Preston Premium Wines
1976
Hinzerling Winery
1976
Quilceda Creek Vintners
1979
Hogue Cellars
1982
Snoqualmie Vineyards
1983
Hoodsport Winery
1978
Tucker Cellars Winery
1981
Horizons Edge Winery
1983
Woodward Canyon Winery 1981
Hyatt Vineyards
1983
Yakima River Winery
1977
Methodology: Using a variety of sources, Tasting Room Magazine staff
researched and narrowed down a list of the 26 Washington wineries
founded in 1983 or earlier that are still in operation today (above sidebar).
We sent invitations to the 14 wineries on the list that are still owned and
operated by the original founding owners and/or their immediate family,
of which 12 responded.
W a s h i n g t o n T a s t i n g R o o M . c o m 45