Weber Carburetors Float Level

Weber Carburetor Information Booklet
Section 1 - Weber Carburetors Float Level - DGV / DCOE
Part No Applications: P5-002, C-AHT772, P4-004, C-AHT774, C-AHT778
The float level is a critical part of carburetor calibration. Changing the fuel level in the bowl will change the
point that the main circuit starts to feed, alter the characteristics of an emulsion tube, and affect drivability
and fuel consumption.
GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS:
Float level, in mm, typically refers to the distance from the face of the carburetor top cover to the float. With
the top cover held vertically (float pivot at the top) and the float tab (Lc) resting against, but not depressing
the spring loaded ball in the needle valve, measure between the face of the carburetor top cover to the top
or bottom of the float. On carburetor models where it is required to remove the float to replace the top cover
page of 1
page of 1
Section 3 - Carburation - Initial Considerations and Manifolds
By Keith Calver
When trying to improve your Mini’s breathing efficiency, carburation and inlet manifolds are open to as much
speculation as other ‘performance enhancing’ components. A great deal of which falls into the b*llsh*t category.
As is my wont, I’ll try and outline some basic guidelines.
Many facets of our lives are governed by one particular idiom - big is beautiful, and it seems from what many
folk are told carburettors are no exception. This is all very well, but it can have drastic effects on how well the
engine performs over the broad spectrum of its use. For maximum power, i.e. foot firmly buried in the carpet
pile, the method of introducing air/fuel into the engine could be carburettors, injection, man and garden hose,
milk pail, or whatever, as long as the air/fuel ratio is correct and the fuel is properly atomised for a complete
and efficient ‘burn’. I’m not going to get into a discussion on air/fuel ratios and what’s best for power/economy
here - a full subject in itself - but the metering device. And that, mes amies, is the carburettor. Then, having
selected a suitable one, a decent inlet manifold is a definite requirement to maximise its performance. To cover
all eventualities would take a tome, so we’re going to concentrate on road use in this article.
Sizing
Before shelling out hard earned beer vouchers on another carb, a nanosecond’s contemplation as to why
wouldn’t go amiss. Just why do you need to change it? If it’s solely to come tops in the bar room b*llsh*t competition, or aesthetics, then this article is not for you. If maximum performance - be that economy or power - is
the goal, read on.
Your Mini engine is no less for it’s ancient design than any modern unit. They all accomplish the same thing turning heat into mechanical energy to propel the four-wheeled wonder down the road. To do this the heat has
to be developed from somewhere, in our case by burning (that’s burning, not exploding) a fuel with an oxidant
- petrol from a pump and oxygen from the air. To achieve our goal of either maximum economy or power, or
combination of both, these two parts need adding in a certain ratio. Years of development and tests have come
up with certain well-defined limits as to which is relevant where. The carb is designed to complete this duty with
efficiency given its mechanical/cost limitations. To whit, the vehicle manufacturers have carefully considered
the carb chosen for each engine application, of which size plays a big part.
We fit modified cylinder heads to improve volumetric efficiency. Greater power outputs are achieved through
maximising air consumption. The carb therefore needs to be sized so as not to be restrictive. However, the
most common mistake made is fitting a carb that is too big. What you need is a carb sized to provide adequate
airflow for the expected power output, NOT the size of the engine. This is based upon the fact that a certain
volume of air is needed for a certain amount of power. To illustrate, air consumption of a 65 HP 998cc engine
is going to be relatively similar to a 65 HP 1275 - so the carb size needed is going to be more or less the same
within certain limits. To stress the point - if the correctly sized carb is used, there is absolutely no more power
to be had from going bigger.
Bearing this in mind, on a bigger capacity engine, fitting a carb a shade on the small side will make the engine
work a tad harder to draw air through it to achieve that power output. It’ll mean a slight reduction in outright
power, but the benefits are worthwhile - greater fuel economy and greater torque. Torque is what accelerates
the car in 99% of road use, so optimising this is far more beneficial than tuning for maximum power. Parting
with a sizeable chunk of money for a big carb is a waste, as it’s full potential isn’t being used and bottom end
flexibility is severely compromised. Check out the relevant chart for sizing.
page of 1
The solid coloured area shows the carbs strongest operating envelope. When getting into the shaded
area, consider going up on carb size - BUT carefully consider the text when doing so. This is not hard and
fast, but a good guide, and presuming a decent flowing manifold is used. It is possible to get really good
performance out of a bigger than seemingly necessary carb on a smaller engine (say HIF6 on a 998) - but
the knowledge of how to do so is limited to the most learned ‘wizards’!
How many?
Throwing more carbs at an engine isn’t going to make one iota of difference to maximum power output unless
the engine was drastically under-carbed to start with. In which case a bigger single carb would have the same
effect.
In the days of yore, multiple carbs were seen as automatic power improvers - a legend that still lingers in the
minds of the unknowing/misinformed. The main reason for their apparent huge power output improvements
was more to do with manifolding than carb quantities. Modern technology has proven and developed the art
of maximising airflow/velocity. As can be witnessed by some of the horrible/frightening aftermarket manifolds
produced some years ago for the single SU in comparison to those on the market today, but we’ll consider this
more later.
The main benefit of running more carbs, twins in our case, has already been intimated earlier - smaller carbs
produce better drivability. So using a smaller choke sized twin set-up instead of a large single with similar airflow capabilities for the same engine power output will generally produce better drivability. The downside is the
extra cost (twice the price), setting up, and manifold efficiency. However, contrary to popular opinion, twin carb
set-ups do not go out of tune/sync quicker than a single. Once correctly set up, there’s no difference whatsoever!
That’s for SUs. The much-hallowed Weber is effectively a twin carb in itself - having two ‘chokes’ in a common
body. Deemed to be the BIG power producer - yet another fallacy. Again we’re talking mainly about installation/
manifold efficiencies and more appropriate sizing than any super-natural capability. Tuning a Weber is easier
for most as calibration can be easily altered through the use of a myriad of components even when the ‘crème
de la crème’ is used - ‘split Webers’. Tuning an SU can be awkward because of the use of the tapered needle,
made more laborious when there are two of them. This split Weber business is an abhorrent thing to do to such
a well designed piece of equipment and completely unnecessary on anything other than the absolute out-and-
page of 1
out circuit racer. Not to mention the rude amount of money needed to do the job properly. Getting the benefits
out of a Weber on a Mini means bodywork surgery, which is hassle and far from simple. It therefore isn’t really
worth considering for a road car, and would need article on it’s own - so will be left for another time!
Manifolds - singles
Having selected a carb suitable for the job, choosing a compatible manifold is of great importance. After all,
if the carb is right and a crap manifold used, much of the sought-after power potential will be lost. It needs to
meet a number of criteria - carry the carb at the correct angle, allow fitment of a suitable air filter, and provide
uninhibited passage of the fuel/air mix to the engine without compromising velocity. This last feature being the
most important for usable power, the others a definite bonus to avoid fitting hassles and frustration.
There are a variety of manifolds on the market, generally cast in aluminium-alloy. Few understand why this
is, generally believing it’s mainly down to ease of production and is certainly one of the major considerations.
Aluminium conducts heat faster than iron, the benefits of this being two-fold. As far as maximum power is
concerned, the cooler the inlet charge, the better. Aluminium’s ability to dissipate heat faster keeps the intake
charge down in comparison to an iron one. For economy, quicker warm up is essential, again aluminium’s rapid
conduction of heat gets it up to running temperature quicker - hence Rover’s introduction of an aluminium-alloy
manifold on the MG Metro engine to utilise these principles. The mistake they made was making it slightly too
big in the ports.
Port size needs to be designed to achieve maximum airflow without compromising velocity for the given space
the manifold has to fit in. In a Mini this equates to precious little! Big ports mean lower air speeds, and as a
consequence bottom end/mid range drivability suffers. In days gone by, there were only a few alternative manifolds on the market for single SUs. The best ones being mainly produced to suit one particular engine build
type - namely the 1380cc big-bores. The small-bore engines were considered the poor cousins. A couple of the
better manufacturers ended up making two manifolds to alleviate the situation, but were based on the big bore
item. The big problem here was the fit - the big-bore block is 3/8” taller than the small-bore.
To achieve maximum performance, manifolds were conceived to be as flat in side plan as possible. Consequently on the big-bore engines, the jet tube was perilously close to the bulkhead. I remember from the pained
experiences of others that if the engine wasn’t kept rock still, the jet tube invariably ended up being whacked
against the bulkhead, bending it and rendering it useless. A situation made worse by using the choke!! When
this design was used for the small-bore engines, mayhem ensued as the fragile jet tube was practically resting
on the bulkhead before the engine was even started. One manufacturer tried countering this problem by using
a much steeper angle on the carb-mounting flange. This worked after a fashion but necessitated the carb float
bowl angle to be re-set to avoid fueling problems. Not many folk realised or understood this, so ended up frustrated by apparently strange and inconsistent engine performance! Nearly all manifolds needed finishing off by
hand to achieve acceptable airflow performance, so were not really consistent ‘off the shelf’.
One of the unfortunate aspect of all this is that some ill-informed or less-knowledgeable manifold suppliers/
manufacturers today have copied these manifolds exactly, and therefore all the inherent problems. There are
only a couple of really good, thoroughly investigated and developed manifolds for the single SU on the market,
the best by some margin being the Mini Spares/Mania components. So when deciding on which one to go for,
before you look at the cost consider the design. It should fit easily, take a standard air-cleaner box and hold the
carb high enough to avoid bulkhead/speedo cable fouling. The ports should taper nicely from manifold to carb
mounting face and have a reasonable cast finish. There should be provision for water heating, the tube size
compatible with the Minis heating pipes (1/2” bore as opposed to the 5/8” bore of the Metro). As for port sizing,
for road use on practically all engines 1.35” at the manifold face is good. For big engines, i.e. 1400cc plus or
1380cc where maximum top end power is wanted, 1.4” at the manifold face is needed.
page of 1
Single SU inlet manifold flow test comparison
96.50 cfm - MG Metro standard alloy manifold as cast.
99.00 cfm - Howley 1.75” - previously the best available - this one
was quite heavily modified to achieve this flow figure.
105.00 cfm - Titan Motorsport 1.75” as cast.
108.10 cfm - Mini Spares C-AHT770/A small-port 1.5/1.75” as cast.
112.11 cfm - Mini Spares C-AHT771 large-port 1.75” as cast.
The higher the cfm (cubic feet per minute) figure, the more power potential. All manifolds tested on a knownperformer cylinder head with a manifold-less maximum flow 138cfm.
The manifold to head mounting flange thickness is also an area where most have fallen down. Some have copied the MG Metro manifold that has a raised lump where the retaining washers sit up against to be level with
the cast iron exhaust manifold used only on the MG Metro. Others have gone for a thickness that suits the budget exhaust manifolds they sell where the flange thickness varies depending on what material was cheapest
at the time of manufacture. This mish-mash of flange sizing causes manifold gasket sealing problems. Either
the exhaust is blowing or the intake is leaking in air, causing erratic running. The better ones therefore have a
flange thickness compatible with the more popular, and generally higher quality exhaust manifolds - that’s currently 8mm thick as per Maniflow and Janspeed.
Manifolds - twins
We already know the benefits of twin carbs, and have already commented on the fact that the manifold type
was responsible for the early horsepower gains. You only have to look at it to see why - the carbs are almost
running a ‘straight shot’ into the intake ports; far more efficient than the early single carb counterparts despite
pretty awful castings - especially internally - that really were not at all as efficient as they should have been.
Apart from the factory fitted manifolds of the Coopers and S, there are only a couple of other options. Those
fitted to the Sprite/Midget, MG1100 and Austin 1300GT have a lower carb-mounting angle; so can cause installation problems in a Mini. The main problem was the manifold design - basic and not especially efficient. They
hadn’t had the benefit of the development that the single carb one has in more recent years, simply because
the demand is far smaller. Many of those using twins want it to look ‘original’ or where racing’s concerned have
to meet homologation rules, so could be construed as looking original. Mini Spares took some time out when
looking at reproducing the original ‘ST’ twin carb manifolds to make sure the internal finish and shape were
maximised given the criteria of a seemingly ‘standard’ reproduction manifold. Consequently the ‘off-the-shelf’
performance is much better and more consistent.
For maximum performance out of a twin carb set-up, the best manifold is manufactured in steel by those manifold fabrication wizards at Maniflow. Unfortunately it is made to favour the bigger carbs, so isn’t really suitable
for twin inch and a quarters - but probably works better than the original cast aluminium ones! BUT - there is a
big price penalty. If you decide to run twin carbs, then this steel manifold is a must to maximum performance
potential.
In conclusion
Apart from the foregoing and stressing yet again that big is not necessarily best, I would like to point out that if
you’re considering a carb change, the best SU to go for is the HIF variety. Space precludes me from depicting
why. Suffice to say much development was put into it - making it far more effective than the older HS versions.
I know I always bang on about this one particular point, but it really makes a big difference in driving pleasure
- ALWAYS, ALWAYS, be honest about your car’s main use and how you mostly drive before deciding what
components you buy.
page of 1
Useful part numbers:
C-AHT770 Mini Spares inlet manifold for 1.5” SU. Can be re-worked for 1.75” SU at carb mounting flange/
hole if/when required. Has 5/8”UNF threaded hole for servo take-off adaptor and 1/2” water-heating facility.
Suitable for all road applications up to 1380cc.
C-AHT770A Mini Spares inlet manifold for 1.75 SU. Has 5/8”UNF threaded hole for servo take-off adaptor
and 1/2” water-heating facility. Suitability as above.
C-AHT771 Mini Spares large port manifold for 1.75” SU on engines. With a greater capacity than 1380cc
and serious cams.
C-AHT771/MG Titan Motorsport 1.5”/1.75” manifold with lower carb height for MG Midget & Austin Healey
Sprite to avoid bonnet fouling.
12H1405 Servo take-off adaptor.
C-AEG488 Mini Spares cast ally inlet manifold for twin SU - takes 1.25” H/HS2 or 1.5” H4 carbs (vertical
stud pattern).
C-AEG489 Mini spares cast ally inlet manifold for twin SU - takes 1.5” or 1.75” HS4/HS6 carbs.
C-AEG490 SUs.
Maniflow fabricated steel inlet manifold for twin SU - Comes with all stud patterns to take all
MSSK1005 Twin HS2 heat shield & return spring kit - stainless steel
MSSK008 Twin HS2 heat shield & return spring kit - black
MSSK1006 Twin HS4 heat shield & return spring kit - stainless steel
MSSK1004 Twin HS4 heat shield & return spring kit - black
MSSK9 Twin card linkage kit includes accelerator cable manifold bracket, 2 cross bars with linkage,
choke and throttle cable trunnions.
Note: It is entirely feasible to use an alternative servo take-off as per the injection Minis and all Metros. This
was simply the oil transfer pipe banjo bolt from the engine block and the transfer pipe cut short.
page of 1
Section 4 - Weber Carb Information and Part Numbers
One of the common problems where sidedraft carbs are involved is the choice of carb size in the first place
and choke size in the second. The trick with carb sizing and choke selection is basically one of choosing a size
which provides the engine with the airflow it needs without going over the top. Although carb selection should
really be done only after you know the flow characteristics of your cylinder head, we can provide the following
guidelines: If the choke size required for your engine is less than 35mm you should be using a 40DCOE, for
all choke sizes of 36mm or larger a 45DCOE should be used. NOTE: a 40DCOE with 32mm chokes will flow
more air than a 45DCOE with the same chokes! A 948cc with modified cylinder head, semi-race camshaft and
LCB exhaust typically uses a choke size of 33mm, a 1098cc with the same set-up uses 34mm chokes and
even a stock 1275cc still only needs a 35mm choke; all of these engines should use a 40DCOE. A full race/
street 1098cc can use between a 32 & 36mm choke. A highly modified street/race 1275cc could use as much
as a 38mm choke.
40DCOE
Side draft Weber Carb only
45DCOE
Side draft Weber Carb only
P5-001
40DCOE side draft Weber carb kit with manifold, carb,
air filter & linkage.
P5-002
45DCOE side draft Weber carb kit with manifold, carb,
air filter & linkage.
PM3714
Top mounting, dual spring, dual cable, cam action throttle
linkage kit.
PM3715
Bottom mounting, dual spring, dual cable, cam action
throttle linkage kit.
92.3246-05
Tune-up Kit for 45 DCOE Weber Carb.
92.0015-05
Tune-up Kit for DCOE Weber Carb.
The DGV Carb is a two barrel progressive linkage downdraft carb that is perfect for any street application.
The progressive linkage assures both performance and economy. A big improvement over any stock carb and
it is available with either a manual or electric choke.
P4-004
32/36 DGV carb with 32mm choke on primary and 36mm on secondary. Complete kit includes manifold, carb,
linkage and air filter.
72303
Basic part number for chokes in 40 DCOE carb, sizes from 26mm to 36mm
72110
Basic part number for chokes in 45 DCOE carb, sizes from 30mm to 40mm
page of 1
P5-001
40DCOE side draft Weber carb kit with
manifold, carb, air filter & linkage.
One of
t h e
common
problems
where
sidedraft
carbs are
involved
is
the
choice of
carb size
in the first
place and
choke
size in the second. The trick with carb
sizing and choke selection is basically one
of choosing a size which provides the
engine with the airflow it needs without
going over the top. Although carb
selection should really be done only after
you know the flow characteristics of your
cylinder head, we can provide the following
guidelines: If the choke size required for
your engine is less than 35mm you should
be using a 40DCOE, for all choke sizes
of 36mm or larger a 45DCOE should be
used. NOTE: a 40DCOE with 32mm
chokes will flow more air than a 45DCOE
with the same chokes! A 948cc with
modified cylinder head, semi-race
camshaft and LCB exhaust typically uses
a choke size of 33mm, a 1098cc with
the same set-up uses 34mm chokes and
even a stock 1275cc still only needs a
35mm choke; all of these engines should
use a 40DCOE. A full race/street 1098cc
can use between a 32 & 36mm choke.
A highly modified street/race 1275cc could
use as much as a 38mm choke.
P5-002
45DCOE side draft Weber carb kit with
manifold, carb, air filter & linkage.
PM3714
Top mounting, dual spring, dual cable,
cam action throttle linkage kit.
PM3715
Bottom mounting, dual spring, dual cable,
cam action throttle linkage kit.
92.3246-05
Tune-up Kit for 45 DCOE Weber Carb.
92.0015-05
Tune-up Kit for DCOE Weber Carb.
The DGV Carb is a two barrel progressive
linkage downdraft carb that is perfect for
any street application. The progressive
linkage assures both performance and
economy. A big improvement over any
stock carb and it is available with either
a manual or electric choke.
P4-004
40DCOE
32/36 DGV carb with 32mm choke on
primary and 36mm on secondary.
Complete kit includes manifold, carb,
linkage and air filter.
Side draft Weber
Carb only
72303
45DCOE
Side
draft
Weber Carb only
Basic part number for chokes in 40 DCOE
carb, sizes from 26mm to 36mm
72110
Basic part number for chokes in 45 DCOE
carb, sizes from 30mm to 40mm
14
Mini Mania
page 9 of 3
14-55
WEBER DGV PARTS
14-56
www.MiniMania.com e-mail [email protected] 800-946-2642 Tech: 408-942-5595
page 10 of 3
WEBER DGV PARTS L IST
Die.
No.
Qty.
Req’d
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
24A
25
26
27
26
28
29
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
38A
39
40
41
1
4
6
1
2
1
1
1
1
1
1
4
1
1
1
3
3
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
4
4
1
1
1
1
1
1
4
1
1
1
4
1
1
1
2
2
2
1
42
43
1
1
Description
Carburetor Cover Assy. Incliuding
-Stud Bolt
Carb. Cover Fixing Screw
Choke Shaft & Lever Assy.
Choke Valve
Split Pin
Choke Rod
Dust Seal Plug
Dust Seal Plate
Strainer Inspection Plug
Strainer Assy.
Choke Plates Fixing Screw
Carb. Cover Gasket
Carb. Power Valve Assy.
Float Fixing Pin
Control Valve Retaining screw
Washer For Control Valve Screw
Needle Valve Gasket
Needle Valve Assy.
Float Assy.
Full Power Needle Valve Assy.
Power Valve Gasket
Pump Discharge Blanking Needle
Primary Main Jet
Secondary Main Jet
Shaft Retaining Bush
Bush Retaining Spring
Secondary Throttle Valve
Secondary Shaft
Secondary Shaft Assy. Oversize
Primary Shaft
Primary Shaft Assy. Oversize
Primary Throttle Valve
Throttle Plates Fixing Screw
Shaft Return Spring
Spacer
Accel. Pump Cover Assy.
Pump Cover Fixing Screw
Accel. Pump Diaphragm Assy
Pump Loading Spring
Primary Idle Jet
Secondary Idle Jet
Gasket For Idling Jet Holder
Idling Jet Holder
Choke Control Lever Assy.
Including
— Lever
— Screw Securing Wire
Part
Number
Die. Oty.
No. Req’d
31716.132
64955.002
64700.001
10020.222
64010.007
32610.005
61267.008
61070.002
52135.010
61002.018
37022.010
64525.003
41705.035
57604.052
52000.015
64700.007
55510.038
41535.015
79519*
41030.019
64235.016
41530.013
64900.001
73801*
73801*
12750.085
47600.027
64005.034
10015.492
10016.477
10015.493
10016.476
84005.090
84520.023
47610.079
12765.047
32486037
64700.006
47407.355
47600.092
74403*
74403*
41565.002
52570.006
44
45
46
47
48
49
1
1
1
1
1
1
50
51
52
53
1
1
1
1
54
1
55
56
57
58
59
60
61
62
63
84
65
66
67
68
69
70
71
72
73
74
75
76
77
78
78A
79
79A
80
81
82
83
1
1
1
1
2
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
2
1
1
1
45202.064
45202.056
64615.004
Mini Mania
page 11 of 3
Description
Spring For Choke Lever
Bushing For Choke Lever
Choke Lever Fixing Screw
Square Lever Fixing Screw
Bushing For Square Lever
Fast Idle Control Square
Lever Assy.
Split Pin
Spring For Square Lever
Primary Throttle Adjusting Screw
Spring for Throttle Adjusting
Screw
Secondary Throttle Adjusting
Screw
Fast Idling Control Rod
Idle Adjusting Screw
Spring For Idle Adjusting Screw
Primary Throttle Control Lever
Washer For Loose Lever
Fast Idling Loose Lever
Washer Wave
Bushing For Loose Lever
Throttle Valve Control Lever
Spring For Loose Lever
Throttle Shaft Fixing Nut
Lock Washer
Loose Lever Assy.
Secondary Schaft Fixing Nut
Spring Washer
Washer For Loose Lever
Secondary Throttle Control Lever
Carburetor Body
Sheath Support Assy. InAuding
— Sheath Support
— Sheath Securing Plate
— Sheath Plate Fixing Screw
Sheath Support Fixing Screw
Primary Emulsioning Tube
Secondary Emulsioning Tube
Primary Air Corrector Jeft
Secondary Air Corrector Jet
Pump Jet Gasket
Accel. Pump Jet
Pump Delivery Valve Assy.
Auxiliary Venturi
Part
Number
47610.058
12775.010
64700.012
64700.012
12775.010
45096.025
32610.005
47610.033
64625.017
47600.007
84595.005
61280.086
64750.025
47600.007
45046.020
55510.061
45067.024
55530.002
12775.006
45136.029
47605.010
34715.014
55520.002
45069.011
34705.001
55525.001
55510.046
45032.124
Not Serviced
58702.024
58700.028
52145.001
64615.007
64700.012
61440.216
61440.211
77201*
77201*
41540.014
76226*
64290.017
71111*
14
14-57
WEBER DCOE PARTS
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page 12 of 3
Dia. Qty.
No. Rec'd
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
it
12
13
14A
14B
14C
1
5
1
5
1
1
2
2
2
2
2
2
1
2
2
2
15A 2
15B 2
15C 2
15D 2
15E 2
1SF 2
16
17
18
19A
19B
2
2
2
1
1
190
20
21
22
22A
23
24
25A
25B
25C
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
.36
37
38
39
40A
40B
40C
1
1
1
4
2
1
1
4
4
4
1
2
2
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
2
4
2
2
2
40D 2
41A 1
Description
Jet Cover
Cover Screw
Gasket
Washer
Carb Top Cover
Carb Cover Gasket
Emulsion Tube Holder
Air Corrector Jet
Idle Jet Holder
Emulsion Tube
Idle Jet
Main Jet
Plate
Choke Tube 40 DCOE
Choke Tube 42 DCOE
Choke Tube 45 DCOE
Auxiliary Venturi 45 DCOE
With Air Horns
Auxiliary Venturi 45 DCOE
Without Air Horns
Auxiliary Venturi 42 DCOE
With Air Horns
Auxiliary Venturi 40 DCOE
With Air Horns
Auxiliory Venturi 40 DCOE
Without Air Horns
Auxiliary Venturi Extended
Type 40 DCOE With Air Horns
Dust Cover
Spring
Retaining Cover
Throttle Lever
Throttle Lever For Use With
92 & 93
Throttle Lever For Use With 94
Spring
Throttle Screw
Locking Screw
Locking Plate
Spring Washer
Nut
Locking Plate 45 DCOE
Locking Plate 42 DCOE
Locking Plate 40 DCOE
Stud
Lock Washer
Shaft Nut
Gasket
Bottom Bowl Cover
Carburetor Body
Spring Anchor Plate
Throttle Return Spr~ng
Pin
Pump Control Lever
Stud
Stud
Throttle Shaft Bearing
Throttle Plate Screw
Throttle Plate 40 DCOE
Throttle Plate 42 DCOE
Throttle Plate 45 DCOE
Except 15/16
Throttle Plate 45 DCOE 15/16
Throttle Shaft 40 DCOE
Part
Number
Dia.
No.
Qty.
Rec'd.
32376.003
64700.001
1550.002
55510.034
31734.025
41715.011
52580.001
77401*
52385.006
61450*
74800 Series
73401*
52130.003
72303*
72304*
72110*
41B
41C
42
43
44
45
46
47A
47B
48
48
52
52A
53
53
54
55
1
1
2
2
2
69602*
56
57
58
59
60
61
62
63
64
65
6
67
68
69A
69B
69C
69D
70
71
72
73
74
75
76
77
78
79
80
81
82
83
84
85A
85B
85C
85D
50
86
87
88
89
90
91
92
93
94
69904*
70002
70003*
70001*
70005*
41570.001
47600.063
58000.007
45034.044
45048.005
45034.084
47600.007
64590.002
64840.003
52155.003
55525.002
34705.004
52150.004
52150.005
52150.012
64955.104
55520.004
34710.003
41640.001
32374.008
Not Serviced
52210.006
47605*
58445.001
45082.005
64955.007
64955.101
32650.001
64570.006
64005.059
64005.067
64005.069
64005.084
10005.401
Part
Description
Number
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
Throttle Shaft 42 DC0E
Throttle Shaft 45 DCOE
Cold Start Fixing Screw
Flat Washer
Flat Fixing Screw
Plate
Gasket
Cold Start Unit L/H
Alt. Cold Start Unit R/H
Lever Assy. L/H Unit
Lever Assy. R/H Unit
Nut
Washer
Return Spring UN Unit
Return Spring R(H Unit
Cold Start Unit Body
Shaft
10005.423
10005.426
64700.004
55510.038
64570.009
52135.002
41640.021
32556.002
32556.004
45027.030
45027.037
34715.010
55525.010
47610.006
47610.042
Not Service
Not Service
1
1
1
2
2
2
2
1
1
1
1
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
1
2
1
1
2
2
2
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
Filter Screen
Fixing Bolt
Shaft Washer
Start Valve
Starter Valve Spring
Spring Retainer
Spring Washer
Pump Spring Retainer
Pump Rod
Pump Spring
Pump Plunger
Idle Screwspring
Idle Mixture Screw
Air Horn 45 DCOE 9
Air Horn 45 DCOE 13/15/16
Air Horn 40 DCOE 2
Air Horn 40 DCOE 18
Progression Hole Plug
Pump Gasket
Pump Jet
Pump Cover Seal
Pump Cover
Inlet Valve With Exhaust
Starter Jet
Float
Float Fulcrum Pin
Pump Valve Ball
Stuffing Ball
Retaining Screw
Needle Valve Gasket
NeeeleValve
Fuel Union Gasket
Fuel Union (Blank)
Fuel Union Straight ‘4" Dia.
Fuel Union Straight 5/16" Dia.
Fuel Union 90 5/16
Fuel Union (Dual) 5/16
Outer Fuel Union Gasket
Fuel Union Bolt
Fuel Filter
Gasket
Plug
R/H Lever
R/H Lever Use With 45048.005
R/H Lever Use Wtth 45048.005
R/H Lever Use With 45034.084
3/000.016
64605.017
55555.010
64330.003
47600.005
12775.004
10140.010
52140.004
10410 Series
47600 Series
58602.003
4/600.007
64750.001
52840.001
52840.030
52840.004
52840.024
61015.002
41535.021
76601*
41565.009
61015.008
79701*
75605*
41030.005
52000.001
58300.001
52730.001
61015.006
83102.100
79503*
41530.031
10354.001
10356.004
10356.003
10536.035
10536.034
41530.024
12715.008
37022.OlC
41530.024
61002.010
45034.042
45041.009
45048.007
45041.025
Mini Mania
page 13 of 3
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14-59