View All Hallows College Historical Guide
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View All Hallows College Historical Guide
A HISTORICAL GUIDE TO ALL HALLOWS COLLEGE LANDS AND BUILDINGS CONTENTS The Lands of Clonturk 2 Drumcondra House 4 From a Home to a College 10 Dunboyne 10 The Old College Chapel 10 Junior House 14 Senior House 16 The Fire of 1895 18 The New Chapel 18 O’Donnell House 22 All Hallows College Today 23 Benefactors of the College 24 Sources 25 Junior Library. THE LANDS OF CLONTURK Originally, the lands of Clonturk belonged to the Augustinian Canons of the Priory of All Saints (or ‘All Hallows’), which was founded by Diarmaid McMurrough around 1166 and was situated on the south side of the Liffey on a plain called the ‘Stein’ or ‘Staine’. In 1538, after the passing of Henry VIII’s Act for the Suppression of the Monasteries, the Priory of All Saints (also known as the priory of the Holy Trinity) with ‘all its lands and advowsons’ was, by the voluntary act of Prior Hankoke and his community, surrendered to the Crown. In 1539 the same lands were granted in turn by the King to ‘the Mayor, Bailiffs, Citizens and Commons of Dublin’. These lands later formed part of the lands of Dublin University or Trinity College. After the suppression, the land around the A map of Drumcondra in the 1840s. site of Drumcondra Castle (now in the grounds of St. Joseph’s School for the Visually Impaired) was leased by the Dean of Christchurch to a James Bathe in 1550. The Bathe family, originally from County Meath, remained Catholic and Royalist, and was dispossessed after the Revolution of 1642. James Bathe’s son, John Bathe, built the Castle. When he died in 1586, his widow married an English adventurer, William Warren, who was in connivance with the Earl of Tyrone. Hugh O’Neill, the Earl of Tyrone, and Mabel Bagenal, daughter of the General – ‘the Helen of the Elizabethan Wars’ – were married in the Castle in 1591. The Civil Survey of 1654 divides the parish of Clonturk into three divisions. The first was ‘Drumconrath’ (Drumcondra) – that is, the 200 acres of land which surrounded Drumcondra Castle. According to the Survey it contained “one fair stone house, slated, one office-house, slated, a small church, a garden and an orchard”. In 1684 the lease of the Clonturk property passed into the hands of Sir John Coghill, Master of the Chancery, who resided in Belvedere House on the other side of the road (today the central residence of St. Patrick’s College of Education, Drumcondra). In 1726-27 his son, Sir Marmaduke Coghill, built Drumcondra House on the site, presumably, of the “fair stone house, slated”, mentioned in the Survey. DRUMCONDRA HOUSE Sir Marmaduke Coghill, a child prodigy who entered Trinity College at the age of fourteen, later became, at various stages, Judge of the Prerogative Court, Privy Councillor, Chancellor of the Exchequer, Commissioner of the Revenue, and Representative in the Irish Parliament – at first for Armagh and later for Dublin University. The splendid Drumcondra House, considered one of the finest examples of the early Irish Georgian Style, was built between 1726 and 1727. Architecturally, Drumcondra House has always been a puzzle. Not only are there two different fronts – the one simple, austere and Doric, the other floridly Corinthian – but these two fronts also show different techniques of construction. It is now certain that the Southern façade was designed by Sir Edward Lovett Pearce. (Pearce was also responsible for the old Irish House of Parliament – now the Bank of Ireland, the Bishops Place in Cashel town, Bellemont Forrest in County Cavan and No. 10 Henrietta Street, Dublin). Drumcondra House. T he house designed by Lovett Pearce was a shallow depth, designed mainly to accommodate the south-facing rooms on the middle floor. This house later received a large addition behind, and there was considerable restructuring. The new Eastern front was so designed as to have a florid Corinthian entablature at the centre, with two ‘wings’ on either side – one of them in the new added building, and the other the existing end of the Lovett Pearce house re-structured to correspond with it. Re-structuring also took place inside. The crest which surmounts the eastern façade of ‘Coghill quartering Cramer’, would suggest that it was done by Hester Coghill’s second husband, Captain Mayne. The origin of the ‘Temple’ across the lawn, (now the College Cemetery), is also obscure but such buildings were not uncommon in the grounds of houses built around this time. Sir Marmaduke Coghill never married and died of gout in 1738. He left the house to his spinster sister Mary, who built the Protestant Parish Church at Drumcondra, and erected therein a handsome marble monument with full-length statue in wig and robes, to the memory of her devoted brother. Mary Coghill died in 1755 and bequeathed the house and estate to her niece Hester, the wife of Lord Moore of Tullamore. Two years later he was elevated to an earldom, and Lady Hester became the Countess of Charleville. On the death of Lord Charleville in 1764, his wife married a young army officer, Major Mayne of Buckinghamshire, on condition that he assumed the Coghill name, and that the ceremony be performed in the temple on the grounds. Both conditions were fulfilled. Mayne later became Sir John Coghill. In a few years, however, the Countess was a widow again, and she left Ireland to live in Twickenham. She leased the mansion and grounds to Alexander Kirkpatrick, Governor of the Bank of Ireland. The Kirkpatrick family lived here for over twenty years. Then, when the Countess of Charleville died in 1789, she bequeathed the property to her cousin, Sir John Cramer, who in his turn assumed the name of Coghill. Early in the nineteenth century, the notorious Drumcondra House interior. John Claudius Beresford, who belonged to one of the most powerful and influential families in Ireland, came to live here. His father, John Beresford (1738-1805), through family connections and political alliances, boasted that he was ‘King of Ireland’. John Claudius, like his father, held a lucrative office in the Revenue. Like him too, he was a vehement opponent of the relief of Catholics from the Penal laws, and an advocate of the strong repressive measures against the men of 1798. He was Captain of a corps of yeomanry that for its savagery against the United Irishmen won for itself the title of ‘Beresford’s Bloodhounds’. He kept a riding school in Tyrone House, Marlborough Street, which was the scene of torturing and flogging of patriots to extort from them secrets of the Rebellion. It has been said by some that John Claudius Beresford built the stables at Drumcondra House (on the site of the present Purcell House) for the use of his ‘Bloodhounds’. An ancient tradition of all Hallows says that an old chestnut tree, nicknamed ‘Pompey’ was the gibbet on which the rebels were hanged. Although ‘Pompey’ is no longer with us, another interesting link with the Beresford era does survive in the form of a doorway in the boundary wall between Dunboyne and the Church of Ireland church yard, (now sealed up but clearly visible). According to an account of ‘The Old Mansion’ in the College annual of 1914-1915: “The Beresford children, passing through this doorway and taking their places in the chief pew of the neighbouring church, used to be as familiar a sight to the congregation as was the minister in the pulpit”. The account goes on to record that: “Some years later another group of children for whom the public, at least those outside the Church, had more welcome, used to pass through the same doorway and sat in the same pew”. These were the children of the last occupiers of Drumcondra House before it became a college. They were Sir Guy and Lady Campbell. Sir Guy was a General in the British Army, and his wife Pamela was a daughter of the celebrated patriot, Lord Edward Fitzgerald. Drumcondra Church 1790. Then in February 1842, a young priest called Fr. John Hand, who had the idea of opening a college in Ireland to train priests for the foreign missions, received permission from Rome to pursue his ambition. On his return to Ireland in April he began looking for a suitable location for the college, and found Drumcondra House vacant. As the lands had originally been granted to Sir Marmaduke Coghill. Fr. John Hand. John Claudius Beresford. ‘the Mayor, Bailiffs, Citizens and Commons of Dublin’ in 1539, it was from Dublin Corporation that Father Hand sought the lease for Drumcondra House in 1842. Since the Priory of All Saints had been the original owner of the property, the Archbishop of Dublin, Dr. Daniel Murray, suggested that the new establishment should be called ‘All Hallows’. FROM A HOME TO A COLLEGE On 30th September 1842, Father Hand paid a year’s rent in advance on Drumcondra House to Dublin Corporation, and signed a lease for 31 years with an option for extension. (The lease was extended to 1,000 years, 31st May 1852). Daniel O’Connell was Lord Mayor of Dublin and it was mainly through his influence that Fr. Hand acquired the property. The Liberator personally contributed £100 to the new college. DUNBOYNE The Fr. Hand’s Grave. college officially opened on 2nd November 1842, and the stables next to the Mansion House were converted into a temporary college chapel, study hall and dormitories. In the autumn of 1844 Fr. Hand began work on an extension of the Mansion House, now known as “Dunboyne”. This building provided a refectory and dormitories; the division into single rooms is of relatively recent origin. Where the students had meals before the building of Dunboyne and where the first kitchen was is uncertain. In January 1850, work commenced on a “new kitchen”, the old kitchen was rebuilt and used (so says an old college tradition) as a Bursar’s office by Mr. Bedford. The mound in the grounds (near the present Sacred Heart Shrine) was constructed in the eighteenth century and served as an “ice house” for the preservation of food. THE OLD COLLEGE CHAPEL Fr. Hand died on 20th May 1846, without having realised his desire to see the college provided with a suitable chapel. But his successor Dr. Moriarty (President 1846-1854) soon got to work. He secured the services of the most distinguished architect of the day, Mr. J. J. McCarthy, known as ‘The Irish Pugin’. (Pugin himself much admired the college chapel when he visited it). The first stone of the college chapel was laid on 14th September 1848, and exactly two years later (15th September 1850) it was solemnly opened by the Most Reverend Dr. O’Connor, former Vicar Apostolic of Madras. This chapel was situated at right angles to the present chapel. It was part of a comprehensive plan for the Senior House. This plan envisaged a quadrangle of which, however, only the north and west wings were built. The chapel, when completed, was to occupy the greater part of the south side. It was intended to furnish it was a tower and spire. (Actually only the choir and sacristies were built; the resulting edifice was eighty feet long and twenty-six feet wide with sidewalls thirty feet high, and a high-pitched roof.) The style was Gothic. Over the High Altar at the eastern end was a great pointed window of five lights with traceried heads, and the southern wall contained windows each of three lights, also with traceried heads. On the left side, as one faces the altar, there was a The Stables of Drumcondra House. monument to Fr. Hand. The chapel could accommodate eighty students. The stables of Drumcondra House were unusually adjacent to the house itself. For over forty years they served as hostel for the junior students, before being replaced by the new Junior House building, now Purcell House in 1885. Father Hand acquired the splendid Drumcondra House during the autumn of 1842. No early engraving of the house has been found but Father Hand’s first impressions may be gauged from this drawing, which he used as a letterhead. Instead of the idealised project to the left, however, one has to conjure up a stable house, which lay in unusually close proximity to the house itself. JUNIOR HOUSE The stables next to Drumcondra House were In 1885, the old Beresford stable, which had situated on the site of the present Purcell House. The first stable had been converted into the college’s first temporary chapel. Early in 1843 the second stable was converted into a study hall for the students and the lofts overhead into dormitories. There was also an ambulatory. While we can no longer reconstruct its plan, we can imagine the early students of All Hallows crowded at night on palliasses in the upper storeys, and in the evening huddled over battered desks, shivering in the cold and doing their best to study in the vivid gleam of tallow dips. Gas was introduced into the college in the late 1850s. served the college so long, was pulled down and the new Junior House (now Purcell House) was erected in its place. The architect was Mr. J.J. O’Callaghan. The then President, Dr. William Fortune, travelled to the United States and Canada in 1880 to collect funds for the new building. A few years later in 1885, Dr. Patrick Delany, a professor of the college (later Archbishop of Hobart) made a journey to Australia for the same purpose. When the Junior House was built the Swords Road entrance to the college was closed and a new gate lodge erected at Grace Park Road to replace Jack Farrell’s old thatched cottage. Dr. William Fortune. Dr. Patrick Delany. Junior House. SENIOR HOUSE The All Hallows Annal for 1859 gives a description of the Senior House that had recently been erected. It consisted of the north, west and part of the south wings of a quadrangle two hundred and twenty feet square. The projected east wing was never built. The work was begun in 1853, during Dr. Moriarty’s presidency, and completed by Dr. Woodlock (President, 1854-1861). Mr. J.J. McCarthy was the architect. A new avenue was constructed directly from the hall of the new house to the Swords Road and a double line of lime trees was planed alongside it. The west wing, facing the Swords Road, contained the entrance hall with a porter’s lodge and a grand staircase in the centre. The hall on the right was then the Aula Maxima. The elevated dais was intended for the reception of distinguished guests. The hall on the left was a general reception room. It also served as a museum of Natural History and of the costumes and antiquities of foreign lands, to which former pupils, dispersed over the globe, contributed. Various study halls and class-halls, as well as the rooms of the college debating society occupied the ground floor of the north wing. Rooms for the president and some of the professors were provided in the west wing. The east wing was to have contained the library as well as students’ rooms and study halls. Senior House. An Engraving of the Senior House and the College Chapel made in 1859 by the architect J.J. McCarthy. THE FIRE OF 1895 On the morning of 13th May 1895, fire completely destroyed the college chapel. The marble high altar was shattered, the sacristies with their vestments were burnt out and the whole building on which £2,000 had been spent the previous year was reduced to ruins. The burning of the chapel, although a great loss was in reality providential. Three years previously the former President, Dr. Woodlock of Ardagh, had written to Fr. Moore pointing out to him the inadequacy of the college chapel; it was built for 80 students, and in 1895 there were over 170, and he recommended the construction of a new college chapel. THE NEW CHAPEL The men who erected the new chapel had The College Chapel. every reason to be proud of this noble edifice. No detailed description of it is necessary here. It may be noted, however, that the style is early Gothic. Its overall length is 144 feet and is built throughout with granite ashlar facings and limestone dressings. The nave is 77 feet long and 32 feet wide. The transepts measure 20 feet by 22 feet. The broad sanctuary, unencumbered by steps and slightly elevated above the body of the church, gives ample space for solemn ceremonies such as ordinations. The total width across the transepts is 72 feet. The carved stalls are of solid oak, the lofty grained ceiling of pitch pine, the flooring in oak blocks with walnut borders. The five central stained glass windows in the apse represent Christ giving his Apostles their commission to “go teach all nations” (Euntes docete Omnes Gentes). The other four windows in the apse represent, respectively, four great Apostles of the Irish nation: St. Patrick, St. Columba, St. Virgilius and St. Brendan. The High Altar is executed in marble and Caen stone. It has five crocketed canopies each supported on columns, the central canopy rising to a height of 20 feet and crowned with a foliated cross. The altar, designed to fit well into the apse, is 20 feet wide. Every detail is designed to emphasise the high office of a priest and missionary – the elaborately carved sacrifices of Abel, Abraham and Melchisedech in front, the groups of adoring missionary saints in the reredos, the angels bearing scrolls and emblems at the sides, the four beautiful statues of Our Lady, St. John, St. Peter and St. Paul. The architect of the chapel was Mr. George Ashley. Having completed the chapel, Fr. Moore proceeded to remodel and rebuild the kitchen department and staff residence and to build an Aula Maxima; the latter was opened on December 8th, 1907. College Chapel Interior. J.J. McCarthy’s projection for the new college of All Hallows in 1853 shows the rural character of Drumcondra at that time. The stable house is on the extreme left. Beside it is the wing which Fr. Hand added in 1844. Only the choir of the chapel was actually built. The East Wing (lower right) was never built. The houses in the background are on the ‘Santry Road’. O’DONNELL HOUSE On 20th May 1958, the 112th anniversary of the death of Fr. Hand, O’Donnell House was solemnly blessed and opened by His Grace the Archbishop of Dublin, the Most Rev. Dr. McQuaid, in the presence of a distinguished company of prelates, ecclesiastical and civil dignitaries and alumni from all over the world. In his address His Grace said: “I would wish O’Donnell House. you to-day no greater blessing than that through the powerful assistance of our Blessed Lady, God will enable you and future generations of All Hallows to prove yourselves the worthy sons of an institution so venerable and privileged”. The architect of the new building was Mr. Simon Leonard (of Messrs W.H. Byrne and Son). BENEFACTORS OF THE COLLEGE The All Hallows Annals of 1860 records the prayers said in the college for its benefactors: “daily for nearly twenty years has the holy sacrifice of the Mass been offered by one of the Directors, each in his turn, for all the benefactors of the college, living and dead, and for their intentions. This, we trust, will be continued as long as All Hallows exists. The Directors and students likewise celebrate each year in the college chapel a solemn office and High Mass for the deceased members and benefactors of the institution and their kinsfolk, for whom also as well as for all their benefactors still living, public prayers are daily offered”. This desire of our predecessors has been fulfilled daily for the past century. Mass has been offered for all benefactors, living and dead. An annual solemn office and Mass is also celebrated during November for deceased benefactors. Public prayers in the chapel are said daily for all benefactors. All ALL HALLOWS COLLEGE TODAY The aerial photo of All Hallows shows the Belfast Road in the background and Grace Park Road (formerly ‘Goose Green Lane’) in the foreground. At the bottom is Drumcondra Castle, now St. Joseph’s School for the Visually Impaired. The ‘Beresford Stables’ have been replaced by the new Junior House (Purcell House), behind which is the Drumcondra Church and graveyard. O’Donnell House, in the middle foreground, was built in 1957-58. The former chapel was gutted by fire and replaced by the present one at the end of the last century. Hallows owes an undying debt of gratitude to its benefactors. All that the college possesses is due to their alms and prayers. The reports sent annually to benefactors in the earliest days of the college contain a long list of subscribers. These subscriptions came from all parts of Ireland and around the world. Bishops, priests and people subscribed. Members of the staff travelled the country preaching annual parochial appeals for All Hallows. The Directors of the college at this time accepted no salary. They were satisfied with food and board. They devoted even the stipends for Masses and other ecclesiastical duties to the work of the college. Former pupils, too, rallied to the help of their Alma Mater. Generous subscriptions also came from friends in England and Scotland, from Rome and other parts of the continent, as well as from the Central Council of the Association for the Propagation of the Faith. Yet it must be said that it is above all to the people of Ireland that we owe gratitude. A phrase that often occurs in the early Reports is: “All Hallows is Ireland’s Promise to God”. Ireland promised and Ireland gave, even in days of poverty, pestilence and famine (M. O’Callaghan C.M.) SOURCES Campbell C.M., Rev John ‘Two memorable Dublin Houses’ published in Dublin Historial Record Vol II No. 4 (June/August 1940) Condon C.M., Rev K The Missionary College of all Hallows 1842-1891 published by All Hallows College, (1986) O’Callaghan C.M., Rev M ‘The College Buildings’ published in the All Hallows Annual (1959-61) Text compiled by Colm McQuinn, Arcline Ltd. Edited by Caroline Guihan and Colm McQuinn June 2000 Published by All Hallows College, Grace Park Road, Drumcondra, Dublin 9, Ireland Tel (01) 8373745 Fax (01) 8377642 Email: [email protected] www.allhallows.ie