Birding in East Sikkim – A Tour Report

Birding in East Sikkim – A Tour Report
East Sikkim- Gangtok, Kyongnosla Alpine Sanctuary- Tsomgo, Fambonglho Wildlife Sanctuary
Tour Leader: Chewang Rinchen Bonpo
E-mail: [email protected]
Guest Birders: Mr. Amit Tharukta & his wife
E-mail: [email protected]
Dated: 25th June to 28th June 2009
Introduction
Sikkim the second smallest state of India with an area of 7,096 sq. km. and with the least population
among all the states of India. Located between the two Himalayan countries of Nepal in the west
and the Kingdom of Bhutan in the East, Sikkim is one of the star point for the of the Indo-Malayan
type species with most of them endemic to the Eastern Himalayas.
The Birdlife of Sikkim is estimated to be of 550 species with most of the species resembling the
Kingdom of Bhutan. Thus if one want to come for a Bird-watching Holiday with reasonable expenses
and interest in the Eastern Himalayan species combined with the lovely view of the world’s third
highest mountain then Sikkim along with the forests of Darjeeling Hills offers you the best choice
with many good important Birding areas and a minimum of 200 Species in a span of one tour.
Kyongnosla Alpine Sanctuary: Kyongnosla and Tsomgo region lies in East Sikkim. As the name
suggests it is an Alpine forest with dominant species like the Rhododendrons and Junipers and small
shrubs making it a good habitat for game birds like the Blood Pheasant , Himalayan Monal ( Dec to
May) followed by many good high altitude species like the Fire-tailed Sunbirds. The Bamboo forest
on the way to Tsomgo is one of the favourite sites for many good bamboos habituating species like
Parrotbills, Laughing Thrushes etc.
Fambonglho Wildlife Sanctuary: The sanctuary is situated on the hills opposite to Gangtok. The
highest point of this sanctuary is Tinjurey, which is one of the better places for Birdwatching. The
Log hut accommodation within the sanctuary makes bird watching more worthwhile compared to
other places. The temperate forests of Oak, Chestnut, and Bamboo with small shrubs of ferns are an
ideal habitat for Babblers and Wren Babblers.
Detailed Tour Report
Day 1- 25th June 09
As soon as arriving in Gangtok at noon Amit was anxious and impatient for photographing birds
with his powerful 500mm lens so we headed to the National Highway between Ganesh Tok and Tashi
view point after a few meters from Ganesh Tok we started our walk on the Highway where we came
across a mixed flock of birds which we managed get good shots of some of the species like the Green
Crowned Warbler, Blue-winged Minla, Red-tailed Minla and Red-billed Leiothrix.
As we walked just a few meters we came across a pair of
Russet Sparrows of which Amit could capture the male.
After the flock passed on we carried on walking towards
Bulbulay as the place seemed to have lesser traffic. As we
entered the Park, Amit encountered a Red-headed
Laughing thrush perched on a stone sunning itself but
could not capture it in his camera. However, we were not
as disappointed as we were sure we would encounter it
again. As we walked a few meters we came across the
sharp-pitched dual note singing of a Strong-footed Bush
Warbler [Brownish-flanked Bush Warbler] which took us
a couple of minutes to capture it as like other bush
warblers it is also a very restless bird. We did manage to
R ed-tailed M inla
get a very good picture of the species singing in a
bamboo grove. As we reached near a gully we could hear a flock coming towards us and we could
get good shots of Rufous–capped Babblers in the flock.
Strong-Footed B ush W arbler
Day 2- 26th June 09:
After a very good start on the first day, we had great expectations for sighting
more star birds especially in the Kyongnosla Alpine Sanctuary. We started form Gangtok at half past
five in the morning and even the weather which was not on our side with its mist and little showers
could not dampen our optimism. After we crossed the 9th mile Check post we came across a Bamboo
forest near a small village where we saw a flock of Red-headed Laughingthrush crossing the road.
We made a stop and followed the flock. As we approached a waiting shed near the road, we took a
shelter for a while form the showers. Suddenly a bird
popped out from the nearby bamboo grove which was
identified was Brown Parrotbill. This was one species we
never expected to see on this tour. As usual, Amit was
quick enough to capture the bird in his Camera.
We loitered around the area for sometime searching for
more birds and happened to sight some birds like Darksided Flycatcher flying around the area and a Darkthroated Thrush perched in Electric wire about hundred
meters from us of which we had no chance to photo
because of the fog. other birds in that area were the
Russet Bush Warbler calling from the distance and also
Spotted Laughingthrush calling down from the Gully about
a kilometre away. We then proceeded on our journey
towards Tsomgo Lake.
R ed-headed Laughingthrush
After a drive of about an hour we reached a small village where we decided to have a sip of tea and
wait for the weather to improve, As we were taking our sip of tea I looked outside the window of
the restaurant and saw couple of Black-faced Laughingthrushes near the restaurant feeding on the
food waste and called on Amit to take his shot. Also at a distance was a White Collared Black Bird.
The weather seemed to improve after half an hour so we moved towards the Sanctuary. As we
began our trek to the top of the sanctuary the first bird that we came across were a flock of Stripethroated Yuhinas followed by Rufous–vented Yuhina. The disappointing part was that as we trekked
more inside the park, the path slowly disappeared and we were completely lost among the
Rododendron Shrubs. So we had to trek back and came across a little wooden bridge where Amit
managed to photograph an Orange-gorgeted Flyctacher [Rufous-gorgeted flycatcher] and a Firetailed Sunbird that was flying around all over the
place. On reaching the entry gate we
encountered two White-capped River chats
[White Capped Water Redstarts].After the trek
we drove towards the lake and came across a
Grey-backed Shrike perched on an electric wire.
As we reached the lake we scanned the lake for
any interesting water birds. Despite the place
being a rush of traffic of tourists and Yak
herders, Amit sighted a Dark-breasted Rosefinch
on one side of the lake.
D ark-breasted R osefinch
After the visit to the lake we decided to head back towards Gangtok but were stuck up for couple of
hours due to the road construction. On our way back we sighted a flock of birds passing in front of
our vehicle. Amit was able to photograph the male Gold-naped Finch meanwhile I was trying to
capture the White-browed Shortwing without much success due to the place being slowly covered
with fog. We also could not capture the Lesser Cuckoo that was perched on an Electric wire a few
meters from us.
Though we were hungry we forgot all about lunch as soon as we reached the Parrotbill Bamboo
forest where Amit captured very good shot of the Red Headed Laughing Thrush followed by a
Streak-breasted Scimitar Babbler.
We had a late lunch at Tashi view point and decided to seek birds in North Sikkim highway as it has a
very good Bamboo mixed forest. We soon encountered a flock of Green-tailed Sunbirds, Blackthroated Sunbirds, Green-backed Tits followed by a Pygmy Wren Babbler and a Slaty-bellied Tesia.
After the flock passed on we carried on our walk for half an hour and came across a flock of Striated
Laughing Thrushes.
Day 3-27th June 09
The day started with a drive towards Pangthang to enter the Fambonglho Wildlife Sanctuary. We
reached the entry point towards the sanctuary at about seven in the morning.
The first bird of the day was a White-tailed Nuthatch just by
the side of the road. As we trekked few meters inside from
the entry point we heard a flock of Grey-sided
Laughingthrushes moving inside a thick shrub but could not
capture them on camera. As soon as we entered the forest
there was mixed flock of birds all around us. Some of the
species that we managed to take photos of where the
Indian blue Robin, Pygmy Blue Flycatcher (both Male and
Female) and a Rusty Fronted Barwing. A couple of Whitetailed Blue Robins[White-tailed Robin] kept coming near us
but was too quick for the camera.
After the entertaining flock passed on we walked a further
few meters where we heard the star bird of the tour
*Rufous-throated Wren Babbler. I thought of manoeuvring
it in the open area so we could photograph it. We worked
R ufous-throated W ren B abbler
very hard to capture the bird by sitting motionless for about
fifteen minutes but as usual due to the restless nature of the bird we could only get a few passable
shots of it.
On our trek towards the log hut, as we were passing through an open grass field we took a
rest to enjoy the beautiful environment of the forest and suddenly our attention was drawn by a
flock of about ten Wedged-tailed Green Pigeon that flew towards us and one of them had very bad
crash on the electric wire. Around the same time, I heard the call of a Black-throated Prinia form a
nearby bush which gradually moved towards the top while Amit had his best photo shooting session
of the species. After a while we saw a couple of the same species flying around the area.
We carried on our walk toward the Log hut for a rest and hot cup of tea as the weather became cold
with a light drizzle. After lunch the weather
seemed to improve so we decided to carry on
our venture towards Chulei. The birds that we
encountered on the way to Chulei were the
Black-throated Sunbird and a mixed flock of
Yuhinas and Minlas.
As we walked a couple of kilometres into the
dense forest we made sightings of a flock of
Wedge-tailed Green Pigeons, Ashy Drongo and
the very shy and difficult to sight Blue-fronted
R usty-fronted B arw ing
Blue Robin (couple of them singing near the
pathway). We reached a point in the forest where the path seemed to be very narrow and difficult
to walk with the tripod and the camera so we decided to walk back towards the Log hut.Our
decision proved to very favourable as we were able to photograph the Pygmy Wren Babbler just by
the side of the path few meters from us and also had the opportunity to try and capture the creepy
and restless singingGrey-bellied Tesia. On our way to the Log hut we sighted a flock of Red headed
Tits [Black-throated Tit] with a pair of Himalayan Green Finch [Yellow-breasted Green finches] and
had an interesting wait for the amazing looking Sickle-billed or Slender-billed Scimitar Babbler but all
in vain since it kept itself well hidden inside the bushes.
Day 4- 28th June 09:
On the last day of our tour we started with the
same spirit to find new birds in the area to be
photographed. We decided hang around the Log
hut. Soon the first bird to be sighted for the day
was the Large Hawk Cuckoo singing near the hut
followed with the same mixed flock of Sunbirds,
Minlas and Yuhinas. As we walked quietly far
away from our Log hut we had our last encounter
with the Rufous-throated Wren Babbler of which
we could capture one of the best photos of the
B lack-throated Prinia
bird that I have seen till date. We slowly moved
down from the hut and tried our luck in the open grassland for capturing some of the thrushes. We
soon sighted a pair of
Rusty-cheeked Scimitar Babblers who were quite cooperative but due to the fog and bad light,
photographing them became more and more difficult for Amit. After a good morning’s sighting we
headed for our destination after our breakfast.
The whole tour was one of the most satisfying tours for me as a bird guide in Sikkim in my whole of
six years’ birding experience. We could make sightings of more than 50 different species of birds
within the three and half days that too in the month where most of the Birds are hard to see’ and
some of them very prized ones too. I am immensely pleased with the variety on offer and this spells
volumes of the prospects of birding in Sikkim within the proximity of Gangtok.
Slaty-bellied Tesia
SYSTEMATIC LIST
Species which were heard but not seen are indicated by the symbol (H).
ACCIPITRIDAE
1. Black Eagle Ictinaetus malayensis: Observed in Fambonglho near the Log hut.
PHASIANIDAE
2. Common Hill-partridge Arborophila torqueola (H): Heard several at Fambonglho WLS
COLUMBIDAE
3. Oriental Turtle -Dove Streptopelia orientalis: Common almost all the places visited.
4. Barred Cuckoo-Dove Macropygia unchall: About a Dozen flying around in Fambonglho
WLS
5. Wedge-tailed Green-pigeon Treron apicauda: About a dozen flying and singing in
Fambonglho WLS
CUCULIDAE
6. Large Hawk-Cuckoo Hierococcyx sparverioides: Commonly heard in Fambonglho but
one seen very well near the Log hut.
7. Lesser Cuckoo Cuculus poliocephalus: Commonly heard all over the tour seen twice well
in Kyongnosla Alpine Sanctuary & Fambonglho WLS.
APODIDAE
8. Pacific Swift (Fork-tailed S) Apus pacificus: Seen every day of the tour flying around the
sky.
CAPITONIDAE
9. Great Barbet Megalaima virens: Heard several in Fambonglho WLS
HIRUNDINIDAE
10. Nepal House-martin Delichon nipalense: About two birds seen in Kyongnosla Alpine
Sanctuary
MOTACILLIDAE
11. Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea: One seen near by the roadside in Kyongnosla Village.
CAMPEPHAGIDAE
12. Long-tailed Minivet Pericrocotus ethologus: Scattered sightings in Bulbuly and
Fambonglho WLS.
RHIPIDURIDAE
13. White-throated Fantail Rhipidura albicollis: Common in Bulbulay and Fambonglho WLS.
LANIIDAE
14. Grey-backed Shrike Lanius tephronotus: A total of 2 seen on the way to Kyongnosla
Alpine Sanctuary
CINCLIDAE
15. Brown Dipper Cinclus pallasi: One seen in the river opposite to Kyongnosla Alpine
Sanctuary
TURDIDAE
16. White-collared Blackbird Turdus albocinctus: Relatively common in Kyongnosla Alpine
Sanctuary
17. Grey-winged Blackbird Turdus boulboul: Two birds seen near office of Block officer In
Fambonglho WLS
18. Blue Whistling-thrush Myophonus caeruleus: Frequently encountered along the
roadsides.
19. Dark-throated Thrush Turdus ruficollis: Seen one on the way to Kyongnosla Alpine
Sanctuary perched in an electric wire.
MUSCICAPIDAE
20. Dark-sided Flycatcher Muscicapa sibirica: One individual seen very close and well near
by the road on the way to Kyongnosla Alpine Sanctuary
21. Orange-gorgeted Flycatcher (Rufous-g F) Ficedula strophiata: One of them seen well
inside Kyongnosla Alpine Sanctuary
22. Verditer Flycatcher Eumyias thalassina: Common throughout.
23. Large Niltava Niltava grandis (H): A Total of 2 were heard at Bulbulay
24. Rufous-bellied Niltava Niltava sundara: A male seen in Bulbulay on the first day
25. Pygmy Blue Flycatcher Muscicapella hodgsoni: A nesting pair in Fambonglho WLS.
26. Grey-headed Canary-flycatcher Culicicapa ceylonensis: Commonly seen with the mixed
flock.
27. White-browed Shortwing Brachypteryx Montana: (H) One heard near the roadside on
our way back.
28. Indian Blue Robin : One male appeared in front of us in Fambonglho WLS
29. White-capped River-chat (W-c Water Redstart, River Chat) Chaimarrornis
leucocephalus: Frequently seen in Kyongnosla Alpine Sanctuary.
30. Plumbeous Water-redstart Rhyacornis fuliginosus: Somewhat less common than the last
species but seen even in SNT Secretariat in Gangtok.
31. White-tailed Blue Robin (W-t Robin) Myiomela leucura (Seen by Tour Leader only): A
couple of birds were heard singing but able to see on beautiful male along the trek to
Log hut in Fambonglho WLS.
32. Blue-fronted Blue Robin (B-f Robin) Cinclidium frontale: We had brief views of a male
crossing the trail.
33. Little Forktail Enicurus scouleri: Seen an individual by Amit in Burtuk waterfall.
TIMALIIDAE
34. Grey-sided Laughingthrush Dryonastes caerulatus: A small groups (about 5) calling in
Entry gate of Fambonglho WLS.
35. Spotted Laughingthrush Ianthocincla ocellat (H): Heard on the way to Kyongnosla
Alpine Sanctuary
36. Black-faced Laughingthrush Trochalopteron affine: Seen a pair feeding on the food
waste in Kyongnosla Village.
37. Red-headed Laughingthrush (Chestnut-crowned L) Trochalopteron erythrocephalum:
Regular sightings in small numbers in the forest and roadside. The subspecies involved
is the distinctive nigrimentum
38. Streak-breasted Scimitar Babbler Pomatorhinus ruficollis: The commonest scimitar
babbler seen well on our way back from Kyongnosla Alpine Sanctuary
39. Slender-billed Scimitar-babbler (Sickle-b S-b) Xiphirhynchus superciliaris: This unique
babbler was seen briefly in Fambonglho WLS.
40. Pygmy Wren-babbler Pnoepyga pusilla: Commonly heard singing throughout the tour
especially in a suitable habitat was seen very well twice once in Bulbuly and second in
Fambonglho WLS.
41. Rufous-throated Wren-babbler Spelaeornis caudatus:
Heard many times in
Fambonglho WLS were seen extremely well twice about one kilometre radius from the
Log hut.
42. Rufous-capped Babbler Stachyris ruficeps : Common in Bulbay usually with mixed flock
of Birds
43. Red –billed Leiothrix Leiothrix lutea : Very common in Bulbulay and Fambonglho WLS
often with Mixed Flock.
44. Rusty-fronted Barwing Actinodura egertoni: Flocks were regularly seen in Fambonglho
WLS
45. Blue-winged Minla Minla cyanouroptera:
Fambonglho WLS
Very commonly seen in Bulbulay and
46. Bar-throated Minla (Chestnut-tailed M) Minla strigula: Less common compared to Bluewinged seen In Fambonglho WLS only.
47. Red-tailed Minla Minla ignotincta: Regular sightings of this boldly-marked Minla in
Bulbulay and Fambonglho WLS.
48. Golden-breasted Fulvetta Alcippe chrysoti (H) : Heard once in Bulbulay
49. Rufous-winged Fulvetta Alcippe castaneceps: Seen regularly with a Flock of Minlas.
50. Rufous Sibia Hetrerophasia capistrata : Seen one in Bulbulay but heard everywhere.
51. Whiskered Yuhina Yuhina flavicollis: Most Commonly seen in the whole tour.
52. Stripe-throated Yuhina Yuhina gularis: About 10 birds seen inside Kyongnosla Alpine
Sanctuary.
53. Rufous-vented Yuhina Yuhina occipitalis: A flock of 5 birds seen inside Kyongnosla
Alpine Sanctuary.
54. Brown Parrotbill Paradoxornis unicolor: Excellent views of two Birds on the way and
back from Kyongnosla Alpine Sanctuary.
CISTICOLIDAE
55. Black-throated Prinia Prinia atrogularis: Excellent views of three black-throated birds.
This is now split from the South-East Asian Hill Prinia P.superciliaris.
56. Mountain Tailorbird Orthotomus cuculatus (H): One bird was heard in Fambonglho WLS
just above the grass field.
SYLVIIDAE
57. Slaty-bellied Tesia Tesia olivea: One seen very well pass Tashi View point.
58. Grey-bellied Tesia Tesia cyaniventer: Common in Fambonglho WLS than previous
species, and also a lot more difficult to see.
59. Brownish-flanked Bush-warbler (Strong-footed B-w) Cettia fortipes: Commonly heard,
seen very well in Bulbulay more common than other Bush Warblers.
60. Russet Bush-warbler Bradypterus mandelli (H): Heard one in the Bamboo Forest near
the village pass 9th mile Police check-point.
61. Eastern Crowned Warbler Phylloscopus coronatus: One Bird seen in a mixed flock in
Fambonglho WLS.
62. Ashy-throated Leaf-warbler (Grey-faced Leaf-warbler) Phylloscopus maculipennis: One
seen very briefly in a mixed flock In Fambonglho WLS
63. Blyth’s Leaf-warbler Phylloscopus reguloides: One or two birds in a mixed flock in
Fambonglho WLS.
64. Grey-hooded Warbler Phylloscopus xanthoschistos: Two birds seen well with a mixed
Flock in Bulbulay.
65. Green Crowned Warbler Seicercus burkii split form [Golden Speckled Warbler]:
About 6 birds seen in Bulbulay and pass Tashi View Point
66. Chestnut-crowned Warbler Seicercus castaniceps: One bird seen briefly in a dense forest
about two Kilometre form the Log hut towards Chuli.
67. Large-billed Leaf-Warbler Phylloscopus magnirostris (H): One heard in Kyongnosla
Alpine Sanctuary at a distance across the river.
AEGITHALIDAE
68. Red-headed Tit (Black-throated T) Aegithalos concinnus: A very cooperative flock of 20
birds near the Loghut in Fambonglho WLS.
69. Green-backed Tit Parus monticolus: Regularly seen throughout the tour.
70. Yellow-browed Tit Sylviparus modestus: One Individual seen in a mixed flock near the
Log hut in Fambonglho WLS.
SITTIDAE
71. White-tailed Nuthatch Sitta himalayensis: A couple of Birds near the entry gate of
Fambonglho WLS.
NECTARINIIDAE
72. Green-tailed Sunbird Aethopyga nipalensis: The common sunbird of the tour.
73. Black-breasted Sunbird (Black-throated S) Aethopyga saturata: One male bird in a flock
pass Tashi view point.
74. Fire-tailed Sunbird Aethopyga siparaja: Common in Kyongnosla Alpine Sanctuary
FRINGILLIDAE
75. Himalayan Greenfinch (Yellow-breasted G) Carduelis spinoides: About four birds seen
near the Block Officer Office in Fambonglho.
76. Gold-naped Finch Pyrrhoplectes epauletta: One Male seen on the way from Kyongnosla
Alpine Sanctuary below the road.
PASSERIDAE
77. Cinnamon Sparrow (Russet S) Passer rutilans: One male seen near the road in Bulbulay
just pass Ganesh Tok
DICRURIDAE
78. Ashy Drongo Dicrurus leucophaeus: Frequently seen throughout the tour.
MAMMALS
1. Yellow throated Martin Martes Flavigula: Seen twice once in Kyongnosla Alpine
Sanctuary and once on our way back near Sikkim Armed Police Head quarters in
Pangthang –Gangtok
2. Orange-bellied Himalayan Squirrel Dremomys lokriah: Regularly seen in Fambonglho.