brewery manual - Angel Homebrew

BREWERY MANUAL
Version II ~ 27 July 2016
(front cover illustration reproduced by kind permission of Ann Edwards).
GLOSSARY – BREWERY COMPONENTS
The brewery supports HERMS (Heat Exchange Recirculating Mash System) and RIMS (Recirculating Infusion Mash System)
methods of maintaining mash temperature. These procedures use a “hybrid” mix of both techniques, chiefly HERMS.
“Beersmith” (version 2) is a program to assist formulating recipes and logging brews. It is licensed and installed on selected
PCs about the Brewery. Find out more at <http://beersmith.com/>.
air-stone
sintered stainless-steel air diffuser (mounted in tri-clover fitting).
air-hose
assembly of PVC hose, anti-bacterial filter and pressure relief tap.
cask
19-21L “Cornelius” kegs; “disconnect” posts for gas-in & beer-out.
control box
electrical box containing much of the “control” circuitry (1A).
copper
same as “kettle”. 100L stainless steel vessel.
distribution box
electrical box containing much of the “heavy” switching (40A).
diverter
diverter tap connecting either the kettle or mashtun to wort circuit.
drain hose
PVC hose (fixed to extractor hood) with “cam & groove” fitting on one end.
dump valve
tap/valve in the bottom of the fermenter’s conical section.
false bottom
perforated stainless steel strainer fitted to mashtun outlet.
fermenter
stainless steel conical fermenting vessel.
filler
tap and silicon hose for linking sparge flow tap to wort circuit.
heat exchanger
large copper heat exchanger fitted under the bench (for “HERMS”).
heat exchanger element
a 2KW heating element in the heat exchanger (“RIMS” heater).
heat exchanger PID
the “PID” controller managing the heat exchanger element.
HLT
70L stainless steel “hot liquor tank” (HLT) under the bench.
HLT element
the 6KW heating element in the HLT.
HLT PID
the “PID” controller (control box) managing temperature of the HLT.
HLT pump
small pump (12V) in the circuit linking HLT and heat exchanger outer.
hop strainer
braided stainless steel assembly fitted to kettle outlet.
hop back
assembly for steeping hops at end of boil.
inlet hose
short silicon hose with “cone seat union” fitting on one end.
kettle
100L stainless steel vessel.
kettle element
the 6KW heating element in the kettle.
kettle PID
the “PID” controller (control box) managing kettle temperature/boil.
kettle tap
the outlet tap on the kettle.
long hose
long silicon hose with “cam & groove” fitting on one end.
mashtun
70L stainless steel vessel (timber clad for insulation).
mashtun inlet
inlet on rear of tun. Cone seat union inside, cam & groove outside.
mashtun tap
the outlet tap on the mashtun.
primer
small diverter tap linking heat exchanger (outer) and waste circuit.
racking valve
tap/valve in the side of the fermenter’s conical section.
refractometer
tool for measuring gravity in “Brix”; convert to “SG” using “Beersmith”.
short hose
short silicon hose with “cam & groove” fittings on both ends.
snorkel
vertical section of hop strainer to relieve impact of clogging.
sparge circuit
pipes linking HLT, sparge pump and sparge flow tap.
sparge circuit waste
tap in lowest point of sparge circuit emptying into waste circuit.
sparge flow tap
tap high on wall controlling output from the sparge pump.
sparge pump
small pump (12V) in sparge circuit.
timer
adapted cooker timer/clock on the control panel.
transfer hose
silicon hose assembly for casking beer out of the fermenter.
transfer pump
small pump (12V) for emptying the fermenter; used with transfer hose.
waste pump
hand operated bilge pump (diaphragm pump) for removing waste.
waste circuit
PVC hoses linking “waste out” from various parts with waste pump.
waste hose
large diameter (20mm ID) hose used for pumping out most things!
wort circuit
pipes linking mashtun, kettle, wort pump and wort flow tap.
wort circuit waste
tap in lowest point of wort circuit emptying into waste circuit.
wort pump
large pump (230V) in the wort circuit.
wort flow tap
tap high on wall controlling output from the wort pump.
1
SOMETIME BEFORE BREW-DAY – PREPARATION
DESIGN
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Open “Beersmith” software and locate the “My Recipes” folder. Chose an existing recipe or formulate
a new one. The recipe shouldn’t include “water treatment” additions, but may include a “water
profile” to suggest a suitable one.
“Copy” the selected recipe and “paste” into the “BrewLog” folder.
Open the copy and delete any “water” or “water agent” entries having noted down the “water” entry
(if there is one) for later. NOTE: Modifying the copy does not alter the original.
Make any minor alterations to this copy (e.g. finings, etc., as per whatever passes as “normal
practice” at this time). Use “substitute” to alter any listed ingredients to match what will be available
on the day; particularly applies to “hops” which will have different qualities in different years. Also
see “Equipment” section below when determining “batch size”.
In the copy on the “Design” page enter the date that is the intended brew day.
Use the “hop age” tool to calculate the “adjusted alpha” for the hops being used. Assume “storage
temperature” of 10°C. Assume a best-case “hop storage index” if given a range. The age tool may
have to be applied twice, once for storage before buying (guessed?), and then for period after buying
(stored in freezer at -25°C). “Stored in” may be “vacuum packed foil pouch”, but reiterate for a period
in “poly/plastic bag” if been opened. Hops barely “age” if stored at in a freezer in air-tight packing.
For each hop entry, open it and enter the “aged” value for “alpha” acid. Adjust the amount to match
the “IBUs” in the original recipe (unless purposely making batch more or less bitter). If multiple hop
types in the recipe, also adjust amounts to keep proportions alike.
On the “Mash” page the “Mash Tun Temperature” should be the same as the first step’s “Step
Temperature” and “Adjust Temp for Equip” checked. The equipment will be pre-heated.
Close the recipe page. This will save the changes and take one back to the “BrewLog” view.
OPTIONAL: With the recipe hi-lighted click the “Brew Steps” button. Click the “Print” button to get a
print preview and make any necessary adjustments (like set all the header and footer options to
“blank”, adjust margins, zoom – 60% works well, etc.). Click the print icon on this page. On the “print”
box make any necessary adjustments (like in “preferences” select double-sided printing). Click “OK” to
print out the work-sheets for the recipe.
INVENTORY
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Assess if ingredients are available. Order any that are not (and if necessary delay brew day). Or…
OPTIONAL: If the “inventory” in “Beersmith” is being maintained (“view” menu, and “inventory”
option) the “Remove Inv” button can be used to automate and update the “inventory” and if
necessary prepare a “shopping list”.
EQUIPMENT
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Check equipment is present and ready for “brew day”. If necessary delay brew day until the
equipment can be put right. Things to check are availability (e.g. will there be available casks for this
brew) and condition (e.g. are vessels in a usable state, are electrics stable, etc.).
NOTE: The available casks hold slightly different volumes and the recipes may assume the smaller
volume. Those with “pin-lock” posts hold about 1.5L (8%) more than the “ball-lock” ones (not visually
obvious). If “pin-lock” casks will be used it’s possible to increase “Batch Size” in “Beersmith” to 45L
(from 42L) or 66L (from 61.5L): Other tweaks to the recipe might be made to maintain OGs, IBUs, etc.
If the air filter on the air-hose has been used more than twice (or effectiveness is suspect) fit a new
filter in its place. The air-hose (only) can be dunked in “Star San” solution and well drained. The ends
of the hose should be kept submersed in “Star San” solution to keep filter and hose sanitary. The filter
is anti-bacterial for filtering air and MUST NOT get wet.
2
DAY OR TWO BEFORE BREW-DAY
EQUIPMENT
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The mashtun and kettle should have been left clean and dry so only need a brief inspection
and assembly of components (they do not need sanitising).
Fit false bottom into mashtun. Fit hop strainer into kettle. Fit inlet hose onto the inlet
inside the mashtun.
Close the kettle tap and the mashtun tap. Ensure both associated air-vents are loosened.
The fermenter should likewise have been left cleaned and sterile. Rinse with kettle of boiling
water (purge rinsings through dump valve using the waste pump). Wipe interior with “Star
San” solution. Seal when ready (care needed fitting the lid; seal may get out of position).
Open “Beersmith” software and locate the “BrewLog” folder. Open the recipe previously
prepared for this brewing session. Click the “mash” button on the name bar.
On the control box switch off all pumps and elements (although none should be running at
this time). On the distribution box switch from “Stby” to “circuit A”. The circuit “A” indicator
and 12V circuit indicator should illuminate. The “error” indicator (and circuit “B” indicator)
should not illuminate.
On the control box set the HLT PID to the mashing temperature plus 3°C (use the ▲ and ▼
buttons to alter the “set temperature”, or “SV”, to be the recipe’s “step temperature” for
the first “mash step”, often named “saccharification”). See strike temperature notes later,
before the section on “Troubleshooting” (including optional “manual” method).
The same “mash step” (or “saccharification” if so named) also provides “strike temperature”
in the “description” (“add n l of water at temp”). Use this value plus 0.5°C to alter “SV” of the
heat exchanger PID as described above.
On the kettle PID the “A-M” indicator must not be illuminated (press the “a-m” key to clear
it). The “SV” of the “kettle PID” should be 95; set as described above.
Connect the drain hose to the sparge flow tap. Ensure sparge flow tap is open.
Operate the sparge pump to remove most liquid from the HLT. Do not operate pump more
than a couple of seconds if found to be dry (most likely the alarm will sound if attempted).
Connect the drain hose to the wort flow tap. Ensure wort flow tap is open.
Operate the wort pump to remove most liquid from the heat exchanger and wort circuit.
Do not operate pump if found to be dry (alarm will sound if no liquid detected).
Ensure all valves that open out to the waste circuit (flexible hose) are closed. Operate the
“waste diverter” to open the waste hose to the waste circuit. Use the waste pump and
waste hose attached to the waste circuit to help purge out remaining water in the HLT.
Operate the “waste diverter” to open the fermenter to the waste circuit.
Open the wort circuit waste tap (and nearby isolator) and operate the waste pump until no
significant liquid is being drawn out of the wort circuit. Close the wort circuit waste tap. Be
patient as it’s drawing liquid from the heat exchanger and pump which’ll create resistance.
Repeat the previous step for the sparge circuit waste.
Attach filler hose to sparge flow tap. Ensure sparge flow tap is open. Open filler tap.
Fit short hose between the wort flow tap and the mashtun inlet. Open the wort flow tap.
Ensure the air vents by the sparge/wort flow taps are open.
Ensure the air vent by the mashtun tap is open.
3
WATER TREATMENT
This water treatment procedure can get quite involved so allow an hour to complete it.
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In “Beersmith” open “BrewLog” and the brew to be made. Select the “Vols” button.
Locate and open the “Water Calculations_Baseline.xls” file (probably in “My Documents”
and a descriptively named folder). Repeat to open the “Brun Water vN_N_Baseline.xls” file.
Note: A Window/Bar may open for this spreadsheet asking whether macros can be enabled;
it is okay to either enable or disable macros for this spreadsheet (but do one or the other).
In Excel (which opened the XLS files) use the “Save As” option to save a copy of both files
with names that replace “Baseline” with the brew’s name and brew date (e.g. “Water
Calculations_HenDwr_11_15.xls” and “Brun Water v3_4_HenDwr_11_15.xls.xls”). Note: It is
easier to resize the opened XLS windows so both appear side-by-side.
Transfer figures on the opened “Beersmith” “Vols” page to the solid blue cells in the “Water
Calculations” spreadsheet. These are:
Tot Mash Water  Total Mash Water
Sparge Vol  Sparge Volume
Kettle Top Up  Top Up Water
Boil Time (on “Design” page)  Boil Time
Est Pre-Boil Vol  Into The Kettle
Post Boil Vol  End of Boil Volume
At this time “Meas Pre-Boil Vol” should be the same as “Est Pre-Boil Vol” in “Beersmith”.
The green “starburst” cells in the “Water Calculations” spreadsheet are copied to the “Brun
Water” spreadsheet “Water Adjustment” page.
Total Mash Water  (Total Water Additions – Mash –) Water Volume
Sparge/HLT Absolute Volume  (Total Water Additions – Sparge –) Water Volume
Save both spreadsheets.
Using the pH probe (calibrated if necessary) take a reading of tap water (expected to be 7-8).
On the “Brun Water” spreadsheet go to the “Sparge Acidification” page and edit the
“Starting Water pH” entry to match the pH reading taken in the previous step…
On the “Water Report Input” page also enter this pH in “Reported or Measured Water pH”.
On the “Brun Water” spreadsheet go to the “Grain Bill Input” page and edit the “Grains” to
roughly match the grains in the ingredient list in “Beersmith” (“Design” page). Ensure each
grain entered in the spreadsheet has a quantity, colour (as EBC) and type (Base, Crystal,
Roast and, most unlikely, Acid). Unmalted grains, especially roasted ones (e.g. roast barley),
may be included as “Base Malt” or “Roasted Malt” as appropriate.
On the “Brun Water” spreadsheet go to the “Water Adjustment” page.
Under “Desired Water Profile” select the water profile deleted from the “Design” page for
the recipe in “Beersmith” the previous day OR select a suitable water profile from the list;
perhaps “Pale Ale Profile” or “Mild Ale Profile” but more likely based on beer’s colour –
yellow, amber, brown or black – and type – full (malty), balanced or dry (hoppy).
Staying on the “Water Adjustment” page, go to the “Water Additions” section. Work on the
first five minerals first. Alter the “Addition (gram/L)” column to try and match the ions in the
“Overall Finished Water Profile” section with the “Desired Water Profile” section. Favour
Epsom Salt over Gypsum and Calcium Chloride over Canning Salt and don’t worry about
Sodium ions falling short or Calcium being too much.
4
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Staying on the “Water Adjustment” page and the “Water Additions” section work on the
next three mineral salts (alkaline salts; bicarbonate will be the ion to match next).
Continue to try and match ions in the “Overall Finished Water Profile” section (now keeping
an eye on the “Mashing Water Profile”) with the “Desired Water Profile” section. Favour
Baking Soda, then Pickling Lime. Try to avoid Chalk additions, or keep very small, because it
is unreliable (insoluble). If Sodium is increasing overly, reduce any canning salt additions to
compensate (replace chloride with calcium chloride or magnesium chloride additions).
Print out the “adjustment summary” page of the “Brun Water” spreadsheet.
Transfer the mineral addition values from the “Brun Water” spreadsheet to the “Water
Calculations” spreadsheet (the sum of “Total Mineral Additions” in “Brun Water” for both
mash and sparge). Also include the value for “phosphoric acid” from further down the “Brun
Water” spreadsheet (“Sparge” section). The relevant cells to alter in the “Water
Calculations” spreadsheet are all solid green with blue starbursts.
If chalk and/or lime additions have been made the “substitutions for alkaline salts in HLT”
cells of the “Water Calculations” spreadsheet will be populated but will assume that “Cl/SO4
ratio” is one. If the “Cl/SO4 ratio” is significantly different to “1” adjust manually by:
o Note how much of the salt this would have been added to the HLT (shown in the
shaded area; chalk and lime is never actually added to the volume in the HLT).
o On the “salt calculator” page of the “Water Calculations” spreadsheet enter these
theoretical values for chalk and lime into the otherwise empty table. Also add the
volume of sparge water in the adjacent cells (“litres” column) and also for the two
“…substitute Ca…” rows.
o Adjust the quantities (grams) of the two “…substitute Ca…” rows and attempt to
match the total calcium added by these two with what would have been added by
the preceding two lines (chalk and lime). Also match the “Cl/SO4 ratio” of the
“…substitute Ca…” lines with the ratio on the “water calculations” page.
o The “water calculations” page is automatically updated from “salt calculator”.
Print out the “water calculations” page and use this for the following steps:
Transfer the totals for salt additions, sodium metabisulphite, phosphoric acid and
“substitutions for alkaline salts in HLT” from the “Water Calculations” spreadsheet to
“Beersmith” along with the water (liquor) entry, quantity of which is “total water needed”.
These value are hi-lighted in the “Water Calculations” spreadsheet with blue starbursts.
Measure out the calculated amount of Phosphoric Acid for HLT (use a 1ml syringe to get the
one hundredth fractions of ml required). Add to HLT.
Weigh out the calculated amount of Sodium Metabisulphite (remember, milligrams!) for
mashtun and add to mashtun. Repeat for HLT.
For each of the mineral additions worked out earlier, repeat this last step (remember,
working in grams now). Note: Chalk and lime is added to the grains later, not the mashtun.
Give the mashtun and HLT a stir to disperse the salts (it may not be possible to dissolve all
the salts at this time). Run the HLT pump and wort pump for 5 minutes to help dispersal.
WARNING: The wort pump will not operate (alarmed) if the heat exchanger element is not
submerged. It can take time for liquid to flow around to this point so allow three minutes
before attempting to operate wort pump. Also check both pumps are operating as expected
(for the wort pump the flow of liquid should be obvious in the mashtun; it is subtler
detecting this if HLT pump is running). Stop further progress until any problems are rectified.
5
GYPSUM (SIDE NOTE)
Gypsum can be very difficult to dissolve in quantity (>0.25g per litre). To deal with it:
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Weigh out gypsum into a small (½-1L) vessel.
Fill vessel with mash/HLT water (whichever is being treated).
Using a stick blender, blend for about a minute.
Leave to rest a minute before mixing in the clearer portion into the mash/HLT water.
Refill the vessel and repeat until all gypsum is dissolved or finely suspended.
INGREDIENTS
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Weigh out all the mash ingredients into a bucket.
Weigh out any chalk and lime calculated for the mash (“Water Calculations” spreadsheet)
and stir into the mash ingredients bucket.
Weigh out the hops, sugars and other major ingredients (those scheduled to be used next
day) into labelled bags or containers. Hops are kept in the freezer before this time.
FINAL ADJUSTMENTS
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Put a thermometer into the bucket of mash ingredients. Allow a few moments for
thermometer reading to settle.
Open “Beersmith” and the recipe to be brewed. Go to the “Mash” page.
Enter the temperature of mash ingredients into the “Grain Temp” box.
The “strike” temperature appears on the first “mash step” in the “description” (“add n l of
water at temp”). NOTE: “Mash Tun Temperature” should be same as the “Step
Temperature”, and “Decoction Boil Temp” can be 100°C but the latter value is not used in
this scenario. The “Adjust Temp for Equip” option should be checked.
Note down the new “strike” temperature if it changed.
On the control box set the heat exchanger PID to the new strike temperature plus 0.5°C, if it
changed in the last step (use the ▲ and ▼ buttons to alter the “set temperature”, or “SV”). If
a worksheet was printed, manually write-in this new strike temperature.
TIMER
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Within 24 hours of start: Switch on the HLT pump and the wort pump.
Switch on the HLT element. In 30-40 seconds the HLT PID should start to register a rise in
temperature.
On the timer press and hold the “cook period” button (second from left). Press - and +
buttons to set the “cook period” (1:15 is recommended, or 2:00 for a 61.5L batch). Release
the “cook period” button. Note: Alarm sounds if elements other than the HLT element on.
Still on the timer press and hold the “stop time” button (third from left). Press - and +
buttons to set the “stop time” (e.g. 07:30). Release the “stop time” button. The pumps and
element will switch off and the “Auto” light illuminates. NOTE: Indicator lights for selected
functions remain illuminated but functions are off while the “Auto” light is illuminated.
At the designated time (“stop time” less “cook period”) the control panel “Auto” light will go
out and the pumps and elements will switch back on again.
6
BREW-DAY
MASHING
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Switch on Brewery’s air extractor (can be medium speed for now).
Switch off all pumps and elements. Mashtun should have pre-heated (check!).
On the timer press and hold the “cook period” button (second from left). If display indicates
greater than zero press “-“ until zero is displayed. Release the “cook period” button and wait
a few seconds to resume clock display.
Press “manual” (forth from left), maybe a couple of times, to return to manual control.
Switch to “circuit B” on the distribution box.
Remove the “extra” 3° (or whatever) added to the HLT PID “SV” value yesterday. Switch on
the HLT pump. This will help cool the HLT back to mash temperature for later.
Switch on HLT element (the HLT PID will keep it switched off until needed).
Switch on wort pump with “heat” (heat exchanger element). NOTE: The heat exhanger PID
may be switched to manual to speed up reaching strike temperature and better indicate
when it’s reached; see strike temperature notes later, before “Troubleshooting” section.
Sit back and wait for mashtun to reach strike temperature. This is confirmed by heat
exchanger PID temperature having stabilised (switching off “heat” will rapidly confirm if this
is true). NOTE: HLT pump will automatically switch off when using “heat”.
Switch off wort pump (and therefore “heat” as they share the same switch).
Remove the inlet hose attached inside the mashtun to the inlet. WARNING: Hot!
Stir the weighed out grains into the mashtun fairly swiftly, but be careful to avoid “balling”
(clumping of grain into dry balls).
After a few minutes measure and record the pH of the mash (in “Beersmith”; recipe’s log
“Mash” page; “Mash pH”). It should be within 5.1 and 5.7 but if not (unlikely) correcting it
will be difficult. By recording it action could be taken to prevent it happening in future.
Fit the sparge arm inside the mashtun to the mashtun inlet. Manipulate the sparge arm so
that the outlet jets are below the level of liquid (to avoid splashing hot wort and causing
detrimental “hot wort aeriation”). Replace mashtun lid. OPTIONAL: Put a folded towel or
two on the lid to act as insulation.
Press and hold the “minute minder” button on the timer, and set the length of time for the
mash using the - and + buttons. OPTIONAL: Set the mash timer running in the “Beersmith”
software (recipe’s log, “Timer”).
NOTE: The HLT temperature should have dropped below 70°C before proceeding with this
step: Turn off wort flow tap and switch on wort pump. Quickly crack open wort flow tap
(about 1/6 of fully open or about 15°) adjusting to maintain a steady flow. WARNING: Too
swift a flow many result in blockages. Too slow or no flow, whatever is done with the flow
tap, indicates that blockages may already have occurred! See “Troubleshooting”.
If a temperature stepped mash (i.e. more than the simple two step “saccharification“ and
“mash out”) has been envisaged then: See the additional steps described later, before the
section on “Troubleshooting”.
When timers “beep” (software timer and the timer “minute minder”) use the ▲ and ▼
buttons on the HLT PID to set the “sparge” temperature (usually 74-76°C).
7
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Press and hold the “minute minder” button on the timer, and set the length of time for the
“mash out” (usually between 20 and 45 minutes) using the - and + buttons.
When timers “beep” switch off the wort pump, HLT pump and HLT element.
NOTE: It isn’t important if mash temperature falls short of “mash out”, proceed anyway.
RUN-OFF
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Manipulate the sparge arm in the mashtun so that the outlet jets are about 25-75mm above
the surface. The outlet jets should be in a circle and all be on the same horizontal plane.
Move the short hose from the wort flow tap to the sparge flow tap (ensure taps are closed).
Fit the long hose to the wort flow tap. Put the other end of the hose in the kettle (the end
should touch the bottom of the kettle, again to avoid splashing hot wort).
Switch on wort pump. Crack open wort flow tap about 1/6th (15°) maintaining a steady flow
into the kettle. Take note of previous warnings about setting the flow too swift.
Switch on sparge pump. Crack open sparge flow tap (about 1/6 of fully open or about 15°)
maintaining a steady flow into the mashtun that about equals the flow of wort into the
kettle. NOTE: It may be necessary to alter (even close) the sparge flow tap during the runoff if the grain bed in the mashtun starts flooding or drying out – keep grain bed only just
covered with water. OPTIONAL: Ease off delivery of sparge water towards end.
When allowed switch on the kettle element. NOTE: Element will not switch on until the
kettle PID is recording a temperature >50°C (safety feature). The probe must be submerged.
Ensure air vent by the mashtun tap has been closed. This maintains a syphon when
emptying past the level of the mashtun tap.
Add any “First Wort” hops to the kettle.
If suspecting “over sparging”, designate the remaining “Sparge vol” as “Kettle Top Up” and
go on to the following sub-steps; otherwise if “Kettle Top Up” has been envisaged then:
o Keep watching the sight glass on the HLT, when the designated (or modified)
“Sparge vol” has been delivered switch off the sparge pump and take a sample
(about 50ml) of wort from the long hose emptying in the kettle.
o From the collected sample record the gravity with the refractometer. If the gravity is
over 2.6 (Brix) calculate 20% of the remaining “Kettle Top Up” (if <3 litres calculate
25%, 33%, 50% or 100% to arrive at an amount >3 litres). Switch the sparge pump
back on to deliver this extra amount and repeat from the previous sub-step; EXCEPT:
If this is the last such adjustment then skip any sub-steps and go on to the next step.
o Disconnect short hose from mashtun inlet. Position end of short hose over kettle.
o Switch on sparge pump to deliver (remaining) “Kettle Top Up”. Go to next step.
If alarm sounds indicating HLT has emptied, turn off the sparge pump to silence alarm. Make
up any pre-boil volume with tap water (record any such additions as “Kettle Top Up”).
Keep watching the sight glass on the kettle, when the designated amount has been collected
(“Est Pre-Boil Vol”, less about ½-1 litre to allow for continuing expansion as wort heats)
switch off the sparge pump and switch off the wort pump (don’t delay this or “Est Pre-Boil
Vol” will overshoot). NOTE: The sparge pump may already be turned off if the HLT emptied.
Take a sample of about 50ml of wort from the long hose emptying in the kettle.
From the sample take the gravity with the refractometer and cool the remainder under the
cold tap (or float sample jar in cold water) until <30°C before taking a pH reading from it.
8
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Record the readings (“Sparge Runoff pH”, “End of Running Gravity”, convert Brix to SG)
along with any adjustments to “Sparge Vol” and “Kettle Top Up”. Place lid on kettle.
Record gravity of wort in kettle (“Meas Pre-Boil Gravity”) along with “Meas Pre-Boil Vol”.
BOIL
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Switch Brewery air extractor to high speed.
When the temperature recorded by the kettle PID reaches 95°C, take the lid off the kettle,
switch the kettle PID to “manual” (“a-m” button, “A-M” led illuminates), and to displaying
“output percent” not “set temperature” (use “set” button). Adjust the “output percent”
figure to 100 (▲ and ▼ buttons) (may be 95 or less to reduce power usage?).
When the boil starts add the “bittering” hops. Add any sugars, and other ingredients, to be
added at the beginning of boil, and stir well to dissolve if appropriate.
Set the boil timer running in the “Beersmith” software (“Brew Log” recipe, “Timer” page)
(OPTIONAL). Press and hold the “minute minder” button on the timer, and set the length of
time until next additions using the - and + buttons. Meanwhile:
Clear out the mashtun. Remove sparge arm and rinse. Spent grain should be scooped into a
bucket (animal feed), remove false bottom and rinse it. Liquid and rinsings can be bailed out
or pumped (waste pump and waste hose) and mopped out with a cloth.
Make any further mid-boil additions as prompted by the timers. Reset the “minute minder”
as needed.
Proceed with boil until the next section (“Late hops and copper finings”). Meanwhile:
30 minutes from the end of the boil assess progress of boil. Add boiling water or extend boil
time as necessary. Record adjustments in the software (timers and alarms will automatically
update). Alter the timer “minute minder”.
Sterilise the air-stone by boiling the entire assembly (less PVC air-lines!) for 5 minutes in a
saucepan. Do not touch the actual air-stone!
LATE HOPS AND COPPER FININGS
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When timers “beep” (software timer and the timer “minute minder”) proceed…
15-25 minutes from the end of the boil make any “flavour” hop additions.
15 minutes from the end of the boil make any copper fining additions (e.g. Irish moss).
(See next section for aroma hop additions).
ENDING OF BOIL
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Fifteen minutes before kettle cut-off (about the same time as copper fining additions):
Check the volume of the kettle is approaching the estimated volume, check kettle tap is off,
the nearby air vent is loose and diverter is on for the kettle. If boil volume is significantly
greater than predicted, delay next procedure and extend boil for a few minutes longer.
Filler tap should be closed but connected to sparge flow tap; the wort flow tap should be
connected to the long hose, the open end of which should be submersed in the boiling wort.
With the wort flow tap closed, open the wort flow waste tap and nearby isolator. Operate
the waste pump for a few moments to purge any significant liquid remaining in the wort
flow circuit. Temporarily closing the air vent by kettle tap after a few pumps will assist this
process. Close wort flow waste tap. Note: Opening filler momentarily helps purge any air.
9
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5-10 minutes from the end of the boil make any “aroma” hop additions.
Three minutes before kettle cut-off time open kettle tap and allow three minutes for the
wort flow circuit to fill (NOTE: the volume in the kettle will drop about two litres and the
kettle’s sight glass no longer provides useful information). The delay gives time for the wort
to percolate through the heat exchanger and displace any air – do not skip this!
Close filler (some ingress of wort into the filler hose is okay).
Open wort flow tap about one third (30°). Switch on wort pump. The heat exchanger PID
should register a steady rise in temperature to over 85°C effectively sanitizing the wort flow
circuit. WARNING: The flow of wort can occasionally be very poor; switch off the wort pump
and wait a minute, opening the filler momentarily, before trying again.
The temperature in the kettle will rapidly fall below boiling. Pause the kettle cut-off time
until boil re-established, or nearly re-established (>95°C), before kettle cut-off.
At kettle cut-off time switch off the kettle element.
Add any “steep” hops to the kettle (NOTE: “steep” hops may utilise hop back later or may
be delayed until wort has cooled in the kettle somewhat; 75-80°C or maybe cooler - 65°C).
COOLING
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Select a HLT fill of “65 litres” if not already (distribution box).
Switch air extractor to medium speed (conduits must dry out, don’t switch off yet!).
Turn on mains in. The wort pump should still be running and the heat exchanger PID should
start registering a fall in temperature.
Fit short hose between sparge flow tap and mashtun inlet. Open sparge flow tap.
If the alarm sounds to indicate the HLT has filled, switch the mains in off and the HLT pump
on. In winter this step might not be required, be prepared to skip.
The kettle PID should be indicating a fall in temperature. When it reaches about 75-80°C
turn off the HLT pump (or mains in if last step not initiated).
Turn on the sparge pump. The mashtun will fill with the warm water (for washing brewery
gear). When the HLT has emptied turn off the sparge pump. Turn on the mains in.
When the HLT is about half full… OPTIONAL: This step may improve cooling. Turn off mains
in. Ensure all valves opening onto the waste circuit (flexible hose) are closed except the
primer on the heat exchanger outer: Open primer (heat exchanger outer open to waste).
Operate waste pump for a 2-3 strokes or until no air is evident passing through primer.
Close primer (heat exchanger outer can’t access waste) and turn back on the mains in.
Connect drain hose to sparge flow tap. Open sparge flow tap and turn on sparge pump.
Allow the heat exchanger PID to settle to indicating a temperature of 18-20°C (24°C okay if
temperature falling steeply). The wort flow tap might only be just cracked open to achieve
this (less than 15° of arc). Alter the wort flow tap to adjust the temperature indicated by the
heat exchanger PID. (NOTE: There will be a substantial lag before adjustments lead to a
stable temperature change – cooling rate depends on temperature of mains water, the
lower the better, in winter this might be as low as 5°C, but may be 17-8°C in summer).
Move the end of the long hose currently in the kettle, to the fermenter. To facilitate this
momentarily close the wort flow tap. Keep monitoring the temperature of the wort (heat
exchanger PID) and make any adjustments to the wort flow tap as necessary.
OPTIONAL: If the recipe requires “steep” hops using the hop back: Close the kettle tap,
temporarily switch the diverter to the mashtun and switch off the wort pump. Fit the hop
10
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back (with its charge of “steep” hops) to the kettle outlet (careful; some hot spillage). Open
the kettle tap, restore diverter to kettle and, after a pause to allow the hop back to purge
any air, switch back on the wort pump. Move to next step without delay. NOTE: It is
advantageous that the wort has already been cooled to 75-80°C before using the hop back.
OPTIONAL: Watch the sight glass in the HLT and if the level is decreasing, adjust the sparge
flow tap to decrease the “sparge” flow. And visa-versa. Avoids need for next step…
If the alarm sounds because the HLT has filled, or emptied, it may be necessary to turn off
the sparge pump (HLT emptied) or less likely mains in (HLT filled) for a few minutes. If mains
in is turned off, turn on HLT pump to maintain some cooling.
Monitor kettle for the appearance of the snorkel above the draining wort. Ensure the air
vent by the kettle tap has been closed. If there is any concern that the hop strainer has
become blocked (flow into fermenter is ceasing) this is the time to attempt clearing it.
When the kettle is emptied (hop strainer well exposed) the flow of wort will cease
(WARNING: Wort pump will not turn itself off). Switch off wort pump and close the kettle
tap. Switch off mains in and sparge pump.
Detach drain hose from sparge flow tap and attach filler hose in its place. Ensure sparge
flow tap is open.
Operate sparge pump and open filler tap until lighter coloured liquor starts to appear in the
long hose to the fermenter (about 30-45 seconds). Quickly stop the sparge pump and close
filler tap, and then carefully remove long hose from fermenter. WARNING: The clearer
liquor (wort mixed with cooling water) hasn’t been boiled, isn’t guaranteed sanitary and
shouldn’t be allowed in the fermenter; do not allow long hose to drain into the fermenter
(as there is no tap the flexible silicone hose can be doubled over to create a temporary seal).
PREPARING FERMENTATION
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Fit sterilised air-stone to the sanitised fermenter dump valve. Fit air-hose output to airstone (end of tube may have to be immersed in hot water for a few seconds to facilitate
this). Fit air-hose input to 12V tyre pump. Manipulate hose so that filter is as high as possible
(liquid can creep past the air-stone and soak the filter). Open dump valve. Operate tyre
pump for 10 minutes only before switching off and closing dump valve.
Meanwhile draw a small sample from fermenter and record gravity (as SG) indicated by
refractometer (“Fermentation” page, “Measured OG”, and edit of “Fermentation” profile;
“Primary Start Temp”). Also record temperature of wort in fermenter. Draw larger sample
(250-350ml) into sterilised flask, optionally warm to 25-30°C by adding hot boiled water, add
yeast, agitate to mix, and stopper. Put flask aside for fifteen minutes.
Add rested flask contents to rest of wort.
Fit lid to fermenter. Leave tap in lid open and stoppered with a little cotton wool. NOTE: Lid
can be difficult to fit and easy to force on incorrectly; ensure seal is properly in place and be
careful not to drop the seal into the wort (may be kept tied to fermenter with thin cotton).
The tyre pump should have rested (and cooled) for 10 minutes or so; open dump valve and
operate pump for a further 5-10 minutes before switching off (also mixes in flask contents)
closing dump valve again and removing air-stone.
Fit drain hose to dump valve (ready for later).
Clean air-stone in the same way as it was initially sterilised. (NOTE: the 2μm air-stone is
sensitive to microscopic dirt and easily clogged, hence the seemingly obsessive cleaning).
11
CLEARING UP
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Clear hop debris from kettle. Liquid and rinsings can be pumped out (waste pump and
waste hose) and mopped up. WARNING: Keep a cage on the end of the hose to prevent
large bits of hop into the hose; the waste hose will be blocked by excessive hop debris.
Rinse wort circuit by opening mashtun tap, turning diverter to open mashtun to wort
circuit and fitting short hose between mashtun inlet and (open) wort flow tap.
Wait 3 minutes (exercise filler to help purge any air in wort circuit) then start wort pump for
a few moments. Switch off wort pump. Close mashtun tap.
Disconnect short hose from mashtun inlet and place end in kettle. Operate wort pump
again to move about five litres of warm water into the kettle.
Turn the diverter to open kettle to wort circuit. Open kettle tap.
Tighten air-vent by wort flow tap (to retain water column in vertical section of the wort
circuit). Wait 2 minutes and then switch on wort pump for a few moments (exercise filler to
purge any air in wort circuit). Close wort flow tap. Switch off wort pump. Close kettle tap.
The liquid and rinsings in the kettle are to be pumped (waste pump and waste hose) and
mopped out with a reasonably clean cloth. Do no use scour pads on the stainless steel!
Hop strainer, false bottom, hoses and any other paraphernalia can be rinsed in the warm
water saved in the mashtun. Set aside to dry. If required, use provided “bottle” brush to
clean sight glass and hop strainer (temporarily remove hop strainer end-caps to do this).
Pump out mashtun: Use sparge pump and drain hose, and/or waste pump and waste hose,
and finish by mopping out with cloth.
Leave lids off mashtun and kettle to allow drying. (Lids can be replaced when vessels dry).
Select a HLT fill of “45 litres” if not already (distribution box). Turn on mains in and fill until
alarm indicates done. Turn off mains in.
Operate HLT pump for a few minutes. Ensure all valves that open onto the waste circuit
(flexible hose) are closed except the primer on the heat exchanger outer: Open the primer
(heat exchanger outer open to waste). Operate waste pump for a couple of strokes or until
no air is evident passing through the primer. Close primer.
OPTIONAL: (Only if not using Brewery again for several weeks). Close sparge flow tap.
Operate sparge pump for a few moments (air might be heard venting through air-vent).
Tighten air-vent by sparge flow tap.
NOTE: No need to be too careful about cleaning mashtun, kettle and connecting plumbing
as anything made in them will be boiled; clean enough to prevent mildew or mould growth.
NOTE: To discourage formation of vergris clean water is left filling the wort circuit (the
reason why the air-vent by the wort flow tap was closed) and sparge circuit (it is not
essential to like-wise close this air-vent because of the presence of a check valve).
WARNING: Do not use abrasives or leave aggressive chemicals in contact with metalwork.
Switch air extractor off.
12
DAY AFTER BREW-DAY AND BEYOND
FERMENTATION
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Start taking daily gravity readings by removing a sample (10-20ml) from the sampling port.
The results should confirm fermentation is occurring. On very hot days try to keep the
fermentation cool (below 22°C, ideally 17-19°C) with wet towels or other external
mechanisms. On cold days keep the room warm. NOTE: Fermentation also generates heat.
The end of “primary” fermentation should coincide with a fall in temperature of the beer
and confirmed by the gravity readings. If “primary” fermentation is suspected of being
complete early, move the estimated time for “primary” fermentation forward.
After the estimated time for “primary” fermentation, take a sample, check gravity is about ¼
(plus 0.007 or so) of the “Measured OG” (the fraction only, so ¼ of 1.040 is 1.010), delay
operations for a day if substantially more. Record the gravity (“Gravity after Primary”).
Record the final temperature (edit profile of “Fermentation” and enter into “Primary End
Temp” and “Secondary Start Temp”). Also record here any changes to fermentation time as
“Primary Time”. The fermentation is now considered to be in its “secondary” phase.
Check the dump valve has access to the “drain circuit”. Open the dump valve allowing the
“green beer” and associated sediment and trub into the “drain circuit”. Operate the waste
pump. When beer starts to reach the pump about 1 litre will have been drawn out of the
fermenter, draw a further ½ litre if brewing 60 odd litres. Close the dump valve. Quantities
are only approximate but don’t over-estimate because it will waste beer.
Attach and place the open end of the waste hose in a bucket of water, switch the plastic
“diverter” beneath the dump valve to this hose and operate the waste pump for several
cycles to wash out the debris in the waste circuit.
Double-check that the lid of the fermenter is secured. Fit an air-lock and charge it with a few
ml of sterile solution (e.g. “Star San” solution). Don’t overfill.
If required in the secondary, add finings to the fermenter at the designated time.
On the last day of “secondary” fermentation: Take a final sample before casking and record
the final gravity (“Gravity after Secondary” and “Measured FG”). NOTE: Fermentation should
have virtually ceased by this time, there being little or no activity from the air-lock; if still
very active delay this operation for a day or so.
Record the final temperature (edit profile of “Fermentation” and enter as “Secondary End
Temp” and “Storage Temperature”). Also record here changes to timing: “Secondary Time”.
CASKING
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Work out the priming sugar needed. On the “Fermentation” page for the recipe in
“Beersmith” look for “Carb Level”. Enter 1.4 to 1.5 for “cask conditioned” style ale, especially
if hand-pumped; this will normally require about 15-20g sugar per 19-21 litre cask. Select a
higher “Carb Level” if required by the recipe created.
Thoroughly clean and sanitise two or three casks depending on “Batch Size” (casks hold 19.5
for “ball-lock” kegs, or 21 litres for “pin-locks”). VMP can be used for this (limit soaking to
one or two hours) but rinse well (3-4 rinses). “Star San” should be used for the final rinse.
Thoroughly clean and sanitise the transfer hose and transfer pump (don’t immerse the
pump!). This can be done along with the casks for convenience.
13
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Thoroughly clean and sanitise the racking valve port on the fermenter. As there is limited
access (the fermenter is full of beer!) and the fermenter has been thoroughly cleaned
recently so this step could be limited to a “once over” and rinse with “Star San”.
Attach the transfer pump (and transfer hose) to the racking valve, keeping the other ends
of the hose in a sanitised bucket.
Dissolve half (third if 60+ litre batch) of the sugar in 70-100ml water and boil for a minute in
a saucepan. The sugar quantity is suggested under “Carbonation Used” but round to nearest
gram or two. Cooling is not necessary.
Put sugar syrup in cask and repeat last step for each remaining cask.
If adding finings to the cask, cool the sugar syrup in the cask and add finings now. Adding
finings (or part one of a two-part fining) prior to filling ensures good distribution.
Put ends of transfer hose in two casks. The ends must reach the bottom of the casks to
avoid splashing.
Open the racking valve (some beer may start to syphon – no matter).
Attach the power line on the transfer pump to the 12V supply. The casks will begin to fill. If
one of the hoses is not transferring, squeeze the one that is until this is rectified and then
release the squeeze: Both hoses should now be transferring.
If filling three casks: Watch out for the first two casks becoming half full. Remove the hose
from one of the casks and place in the empty cask (the transfer pump may be switched off
for this). Proceed, now filling the third cask; when the other cask fills, switch the hose over
to the waiting half full cask. Proceed, now the remaining two casks are finishing off filling.
When the casks are full and the fermenter emptied disconnect the transfer pump from the
12V supply. NOTE: About 2-3 litres is left in the bottom of the fermenter.
Lightly lubricate the cask lid O-rings with Vaseline or food grade lubricant. Fit the lids loosely
to each cask.
If adding finings at this time (or if two-part, the second part), do so now (remove lids again if
necessary).
Paint “Star San” solution onto the casks’ gas-in post, and paint onto the “gas-in disconnect”
attached to the CO2 cylinder to be used for the next steps (purging air). It is an advantage to
have a pressure gauge on the “gas-in disconnect” as well as a manual pressure relief valve.
Attach the “gas-in disconnect” to one of casks. Give a blast of CO2 (5 seconds maximum) to
purge out most of the air. Fix the lid in place and give another blast (2 seconds maximum;
about 15-20 PSI). Check for leaks (“Star San” solution around the lid will do for inaudible
leaks) and if not sealed move the lid about until it does (this may require venting remaining
gas by removing the “disconnect” and depressing the “poppet” with something sterile).
Vent gas in cask and repeat giving blasts of CO2 and venting for a total of two or three times.
Finally give a blast of CO2 (1 second maximum; about 4-6 PSI) and put cask to one side.
Repeat last two steps for remaining cask(s).
NOTE: When leaving the casks with some pressure, the pressure will quickly diminish as CO 2
is absorbed by the beer. The casks may be re-pressured a few hours later and a day or so
later.
14
CLEARING UP
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Thoroughly clean and sanitise the fermenter. VMP can be used (limit soaking to one or two
hours) but rinse well (3-4 rinses). The waste pump facilitates this (fermenter may be cleaned
in-situ): Check the dump valve has access to the drain circuit. Open the dump valve allowing
rinsings into the drain circuit. Operate the waste pump. When done close the dump valve.
“Star San” solution should be used in the final wipe down. Drain well. DO NOT leave
quantities (or puddles) of cleaning liquids in the fermenter for any significant time (>2
hours). DO NOT use scouring pads on the stainless steel.
Disassemble fermenter’s “tri-clover” joints and clean waste that has accumulated in them
before reassembly. Rinse any disassembled components in “Star San” solution.
Ensure racking valve has been sanitised and close off open end with sanitised blanking plate
and seal. Fit sanitised lid and seal. Ensure all fermenter taps are closed.
Thoroughly clean and sanitise the transfer hose and transfer pump. This can be done along
with the fermenter for convenience. “Star San” solution should be used in the final rinse.
Reassemble hoses and pump with a blanking plate on the open end of the pump. Leave the
assembly hanging with the open ends of the hose in a bucket of sanitiser.
Ensure dump valve has been sanitised and close off open end with sanitised blanking plate
and seal (no need to blank off if putting into storage, as in which case...).
If not using the fermenter for three weeks or more; fit the air-stone to the dump valve (as
above) with the air-hose fitted. Open the valve in the lid. Operate the air-pump for five
minutes (purging air with filtered air); close the valve in lid a few seconds before turning off
the air-pump to create a small positive pressure inside the fermenter, close the dump valve
and remove the tyre pump and air-hose. The air-stone can be left in place but cap the barb
end to keep sanitised.
15
SUPPLEMENTAL – TEMPERATURE STEPPED MASHING
The normal practice is a simple mashing schedule that includes just one or two steps:
“Saccharification” and, optionally, “Mash Out”. However, some recipes may call for continental style
multiple stepped mashes. NOTE: the HLT will only support step rises of about 1/2-1/3°C per minute,
whereas using the heat exchanger element may support up to 1°C per minute. If using the HLT for
step rises there can be a lag of 5-10 minutes before it has any significant impact on the mashtun
temperature. Also, the HLT will only support steps up to 76°C, whereas the heat exchanger element
will allow steps up to 80°C.
While this technique provides a “continental style” stepped mash, it is not the same as a “decoction”
stepped mash. This brewery is not configured to support “decoction” mashes. It is debateable as to
whether this technique provides any flavour benefits compared to a simple one or two step
schedule even when using “pilsner” style lager malt.
Stepped mashes can be performed as follows:
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When timers “beep” (software timer and the timer “minute minder”) on the control box use
the ▲ and ▼ buttons on the HLT PID to set the temperature of the next step. It is acceptable
to set this going 10 minutes ahead of the last “step time” ending if the rise times for the next
step are particularly tight (allows for inherent “lag” before mash begins heating up).
OPTIONAL: On the control box set the heat exchanger PID to the temperature of the next
step (use the ▲ and ▼ buttons to alter the “set temperature”, or “SV”, to be the recipe’s
“step temperature” for this step). 5-10 minutes ahead of the end of this step’s “rise time”
switch on the heat exchanger element (“heat” on the wort pump switch). This will also
switch off the HLT pump. This can hasten the “rise time”. Remember to switch off “heat” at
end of the 5-10 minutes. The “SV” may be set 1°C above the desired “step temperature” to
speed up the “rise time”.
OPTIONAL: Press and hold the “minute minder” button on the timer, and set the length of
time for this next step (the step “rest time” plus the temperature “rise time” of about 15 and
25 minutes) using the - and + buttons.
For the final step (“mash out”) return to the normal procedures, otherwise repeat this
procedure for the next step.
OPTIONAL: If the timing between two steps is tight and doesn’t allow time for the “lag”
allowance, go straight to using the heat exchanger element.
SUPPLEMENTAL – STRIKE TEMPERATURE
Before mashing the mash water is heated to “strike” temperature (using the heat exchanger
element) so that mixing in the grain results in the correct mash temperature. During pre-heat the
HLT is over-heated by 3°C to speed up reaching “strike” temperature. The HLT could be pre-heated
more (even to strike temperature) to further (entirely) avoid using the heat exchanger element but
the HLT must have cooled to less than 70°C before recirculating the mash (i.e. turning on both wort
pump and HLT pump) to avoid denaturing the enzymes. Heat exchanger element cuts out at 84°C.
16
The heat exchanger element may be used in “manual” mode to speed up reaching “strike
temperature” and better determine when “strike temperature” has been properly reached:
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Switch the heat exchanger PID to “manual” (“a-m” button, “A-M” led illuminates), and to
displaying “output percent” not “set temperature” (use “set” button). Adjust the “output
percent” figure to 100 (▲ and ▼ buttons). Switch on heat exchanger PID alarm.
When the alarm sounds adjust the “output percent” figure to 50. Alarm should stop after a
two-three minutes. Repeat this step, cutting “output percent” figure to 15.
Consider temperature stable when alarm doesn’t silence after three minutes or temperature
display stable for five minutes. Switch off heat exchanger PID alarm and continue mashing
steps. NOTE: The strike temperature should have been set 0.5°C higher than calculated to
expedite convergence with desired temperature.
SUPPLIMENTAL – ALTERNATIVE WATER PREPARATION
Water treatment is normally done as previously described above. However, the spreadsheets (Bru’n
Water, etc.) can be dispensed with by using the following rough “manual” method:
WATER TREATMENT
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Calculate the quantity of water needed. “Beersmith” software does most of this work: Open
the “Brew Log” and the entry to be made. Select the “Vols” button. Write down the “Total
Water Needed”, the “Tot Mash Water”, the “Sparge Vol” and the “Kettle Top Up”.
To the noted down “Tot Mash Water” and “Total Water Needed” add 1.5 litres. This covers
the dead space in the heat exchanger when mashing that will be transferred to the kettle.
Dead space in the mashtun (below the false bottom) is known about by the software and
isn’t transferrable.
To the modified “Total Water Needed” add 6.4 litres. This covers the dead space in the heat
exchanger (outer) and HLT. NOTE: The volume indicated by the HLT sight glass is what will
pump (sparge pump) out of the HLT, not the actual volume in the HLT, hence this correction.
To the modified “Total Water Needed” add another one litre and round up to nearest ½ litre.
This covers miscellaneous water requirements during mashing (such as purging air).
To “Tot Mash Water” round upto nearest ½ litre.
Using the rubber rings on the HLT sight glass; mark (1) modified “Total Water Needed” LESS
the modified “Tot Mash Water” and LESS 6.5 litres, and (2) modified “Tot Mash Water”.
On the kettle perform a similar marking up of the sight glass; mark (1) “Est Pre-Boil Vol”, and
(2) “Post Boil Vol”.
Divide the modified “Tot Mash Water” by the modified “Total Water Needed” and write
down the value as “Proportion Constant”.
Select a HLT fill of “45 litres” on the distribution panel if not already. This prevents excessive
overshoot of the required volume.
Fill the HLT with water (“water in” on the control panel) to the modified volume “Tot Mash
Water”. If the volume is overshot: Ensure all valves that open onto the waste circuit (flexible
hose) are closed except the primer on the heat exchanger outer: Open the primer (heat
exchanger outer is open to waste). Operate the waste pump until the HLT sight glass
indicates the correct volume. Close the primer (switch it over to heat exchanger outer). This
action also removes air trapped in the heat exchanger outer.
17
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Operate the sparge pump until the alarm (or sight!) indicates that the HLT has emptied.
Open the mashtun tap. As this operation used the filler circuit any air trapped in the heat
exchanger will have been purged. Close filler tap and remove filler hose from the sparge
flow tap.
Fill the HLT with water to the modified volume “Total Water Needed” LESS the modified “Tot
Mash Water” and LESS 6.5 litres (marked previously on the HLT sight glass). A few minutes
into the fill it will be necessary (to silence alarm) to select a HLT fill of “65 litres” on the
distribution panel. This prevents excessive overshoot of the required volume. Correct any
overshoot as above: To remove any air potentially trapped in the heat exchanger outer it is
advisable to intentionally overshoot.
Back to “Beersmith” and chosen recipe in the “Brew Log” folder; select the “Design” button.
Click “Add Water” and select suitable “LIQUOR” for the beer being brewed or else use the
one previously noted down from the original (ignore “LIQUOR--distilled water” and
“LIQUOR--Llandrillo (Denbigh 2014 B06)” the latter being plain tap water). In the “amount”
box enter the modified “Total Water Needed”. Click “ok”.
A prompt declaring “this water profile contains mineral additions…” appears. Click “Yes”.
The software adds the selected water profile to the ingredient list along with a number of
mineral salts. The way “Beersmith” works means the salts selected aren’t the intended ones
(they are hard coded), so select each in turn, note the amount, and click “substitute” …
Gypsum (Calcium Sulfate)

Gypsum (Calcium Sulphate)
Chalk

Chalk (Ca(CO3)2)
Salt

Table Salt (NaCl)
Calcium Chloride

Calcium Chloride (CaCl2)
Epsom Salt (MgSO4)

(no change!)
Baking Soda

Baking Soda (NaHCO3)
In each case enter the “amount” as that noted for what’s being substituted.
Click “Add Misc” and select “Sodium Metabisulphite”. The amount isn’t automatically
calculated so take the modified “Total Water Needed” and multiply by 3.58. The result is the
amount in milligrams so enter this (this calculated value contains a large margin, double, so
the accuracy is obviously not too critical!).
Weigh out the calculated amount of Sodium Metabisulphite (remember, milligrams!).
Calculate a fraction of this amount just weighed out by multiplying it by the “Proportion
Constant” worked out earlier. Weigh out this amount from the previously weighed amount.
Put latter (smaller) amount in the mashtun. Put remaining amount in the HLT.
For each of the mineral additions worked out earlier repeat this last step (remember,
working in grams now). Amounts for HLT and mashtun can be individually weighed instead
of weighing from the total, if this method is preferred.
Give the mashtun and HLT a good stir to disperse the salts (it will not be possible to dissolve
all the salts, especially gypsum, at this time). Run the HLT pump and wort pump for 5
minutes to help dispersal. WARNING: The wort pump will not operate (alarmed) if the heat
exchanger element is not submerged. It can take time for liquid to flow around to this point
so allow three minutes before attempting to operate wort pump. Also check both pumps
are operating as expected (easy for the wort pump because the flow of liquid should be
obvious in the mashtun; it is subtler detecting if HLT pump is running). Stop further progress
until any problems are rectified.
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TROUBLESHOOTING
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ELECTRICAL ITEMS WILL NOT OPERATE: Some combinations and situations would not make
for a “valid” scenario and therefore some switch configurations are ineffective (possibly also
lighting up an “error” light).
o Error when switching on a circuit? If any function is “on” it will prevent circuits “A”
and “B” being energised (including switching on “B” from “A”) and will illuminate
“error”. Design feature (safety interlock).
o Cannot operate elements if temperature is less than 6° (frost protection).
o Cannot operate kettle if its PID controller is recording a temperature of less than
51°; this would be an unusual scenario and is therefore used to prevent “boil dry”
destruction of the heating element.
o Cannot operate heat exchanger element if fluid isn’t detected in the heat
exchanger, or temperature of liquid is >84°. It wasn’t designed to cope with this.
o Cannot operate HLT pump when heat exchanger element is on. It would be counterproductive if allowed (HLT would steal heat from wort circuit).
o Cannot operate kettle and HLT elements together. Electrical load would be too
great; 12KW for these two elements alone.
o Cannot operate kettle and heat exchanger element on “circuit A”; “circuit B” must
be switched on too. By design. This allows choosing minimal circuits to potentially
become live when using timer.
o Cannot operate sparge pump and mains in with timer. By design; no reason to.
o Attempting to delay the kettle and heat exchanger element (“circuit B” functions)
on the timer triggers the alarm. Design feature as scenario is unlikely and potentially
hazardous. Can be hard wired to disable alarm on one, the other or both.
POOR RUNOFF: Poor draining of the kettle and (less likely) the mashtun. If not a clogged
false bottom or hop strainer this can be caused by air in the wort circuit. Turn off the wort
pump. Open the filler (but not if runoff to fermenter). Ensure kettle/mashtun tap is open.
Ensure wort flow tap is open (only cracked open if that is how it was, otherwise about 15° or
1/6 open). Leave to rest for three minutes. Close filler. Operate wort pump again. If not
successful, repeat procedure. Repetitive failure may indicate blocked strainer/false-bottom.
STUCK MASH: Recirculation stops or becomes poor (mashing), or else wort will not drain
from grains in mashtun (sparging). False bottom probably clogged leading to no wort being
recirculated and (if happens during sparging) grain bed flooding. Fit short hose between the
wort flow tap and the mashtun inlet, if not already. Crack open the wort flow tap about 1/6
of fully open or about 15°, less if it was only open this much when it “stuck”. Manipulate the
sparge arm so that the outlet jets are below the level of liquid. Temporarily remove the
sparge arm and stir the grains well with (optionally) two litres of hot water from the HLT and
leave to settle for five minutes. Restore the sparge arm. Try the wort pump again. If not
successful, repeat procedure. Finally, return configuration to state before the procedure but
don’t open wort flow tap as much as previously.
19
TROUBLESHOOTING (continued)
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NO RUNOFF FROM KETTLE: Finished wort will not drain out of kettle. Hop strainer may have
clogged with hops and “break” debris. Unlikely (but not unknown) given the size of the hop
strainer and a snorkel rises above the hop bed to minimise the effect of the main filter
blocking. Use a long spoon to shift debris off some of the strainer after the bulk of wort has
strained off through the snorkel (which is coarser, easier to clear and less likely to block in
the first place). If no luck and desperate switch off wort pump, close kettle tap and
disconnect kettle from wort circuit. The tap might now drain remaining wort into a
saucepan (slow draining by gravity might be possible). Boil what is recovered, cover and cool
overnight before adding to rest.
MASH TEMPERATURE TOO HIGH (STRIKE): Normally the strike temperature calculations are
accurate enough to ensure the mixed mash is very close to the intended temperature. If only
a couple of degrees out and not intending to have a high temperature mash (68-69°C), turn
off the HLT element and allow mash recirculation to bring the temperature down (restore
power to the HLT element once corrected).
If more than a couple of degrees, temporarily turn off the wort pump, remove the sparge
arm and stir the grains well with one or two litres of cold water and leave to settle for five
minutes. Restore the sparge arm and the wort pump.
There is no direct temperature reading of the mash. The dial gauge on the front of the
mashtun is not reliable and only provides a guide. The heat exchanger PID is the best guide,
but the HLT pump must be temporarily switched off and the indicated temperature allowed
to stabilise for about 30 seconds.
MASH TEMPERATURE TOO LOW: If only 3 or 4 degrees out, increase the temperature of the
HLT (HLT PID) by a couple of degrees and allow mash recirculation to bring the temperature
up (restore the set temperature of the HLT as mash temperature gets within a degree,
unless almost time for “mash out”).
If more than 3 or 4 degrees, temporarily turn off the wort pump, remove the sparge arm
and stir the grains well with one or two litres of near boiling water and leave to settle for five
minutes. Restore the sparge arm and the wort pump.
There is no direct temperature reading of the mash. The dial gauge on the front of the
mashtun is not reliable and only provides a guide. The heat exchanger PID is the best guide,
but the HLT pump must be temporarily switched off and the indicated temperature allowed
to stabilise (for at least a minute).
STRIKE TEMPERATURE NOT RESULTING IN CORRECT TEMPERATURE FOR MASH: This is an
advanced correction; only attempt if consistently getting wrong results. This change is
global, and will change the strike temperature in past recipes too! Changing past records
distorts the accuracy of the Log.
In “Beersmith” click on “Options”. Select the “Advanced” page. Alter the “Malt Specific
Heat”. It is recommended to be 0.38 but was altered to 0.54, an adjustment that added
about 2.5°C to the strike temperature.
20
APPENDICES
The Appendices contain a collection of informational data about the Brewery and its construction. It
isn’t essential for the “brew-day” procedures and normal day-to-day running.
ii.
iii.
iv.
v.
xiii.
xix.
xxi.
xxiii.
xxvii.
Water Calculations spreadsheet – (print sample)
Bru’n Water spreadsheet summary – (print sample)
Beersmith Brewlog “brew steps” – (print sample)
(xii.) Auber Instruments PID Controllers – Operation Manual.
(xviii.) Auber Instruments PID Controllers – Configuration.
(xx.) Clock – Operation Manual.
(xxii.) Control Boxes – Layout.
(xxvi.) Control Boxes – Wiring Schematics.
(xxx.) Brewery Layout.
i
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v
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xiii
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xvi
xvii
xviii
xix
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xxi
xxii
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xxvii
xxviii
xxix
xxx