welcome to iceland
Transcription
welcome to iceland
No.3. 2010 May - June Your Fr ee Copy YOUR FREE COPY WELCOME TO ICELAND Tricky Volcano • Top Gear on Lava • Mythical Mývatn Paradoxical Painting • Your Guide to Iceland atlantica 83 84 atlantica Jane Appleton. Production: Erlingur Páll Ingvarsson. Color production: Páll Kjartansson. Publisher: Benedikt Jóhannesson. Advertising sales: Helga Möller, [email protected]. Editorial/advertising offices: Borgartún 23. 105 Reykjavík, Iceland, Tel: (+354) 512-7575, Fax: (+354) 561-8646, [email protected], www.icelandreview.com. Printing: Ísafoldarprentsmiðja, Iceland. atlantica is published in Reykjavík, Iceland, by Iceland Review, a division of Heimur Ltd. Copies of atlantica can be obtained from the publisher at USD 10 per copy (airmail, worldwide). No articles in this magazine may be reproduced elsewhere in whole or in part without the permission of the publisher. 3 6 Photo on this page by Páll Stefánsson. Chocolate Mountain. Design By Brynhildur Pálsdóttir. 16 Welcome to Iceland A letter from the editor. 42 Lady of the Ring 46 Spring Fever in the City 48 Down on the Farm 56 Warm in a Cold Climate 62 Wool Sweater Reggae 74 The Atlantica Guide to the Best of Iceland On the Fly A popular hiking mountain, the best of Iceland, Top Gear on lava, new books, fish balls and rhubarb cakes. Chameleon of Many Colors Icelanders are crazy fans of the Eurovision Song Contest. Mica Allan speaks to Hera Björk, this year’s entry for Iceland. 18 Paradoxical Painting 22 Tricky Volcano Alda Kravec explores the mythical worlds of Thrándur Thórarinsson, a young artist who paints with an old hand. Atlantica’s photographer Páll Stefánsson documents the eruptions at Fimmvörduháls highland ridge and Eyjafjallajökull glacier with a few words and his amazing photographs. 32 Keeping House 36 Mythical Mývatn The Home Economics School in Reykjavík is still going strong teaching its students how to run a proper household, cooking, cleaning, handicraft and nourishment. Mica Allan speaks to the headmistress Margrét Sigfúsdóttir. Lake Mývatn and its surrounding hinterland is a jewel of nature, legend and history as John Boyce discovered when writing his article. Photos by Páll Stefánsson. Jewelry designer Hendrikka Waage has conquered the fashion world with her voluptuous rings. Now she diverts her attention to the benefit of children. By Mica Allan. John Boyce highlights the Reykjavík Arts Festival on its fortieth anniversary. Farm holidays in Iceland are gaining popularity as John Boyce discovered. Wool fashion for modern Icelanders and visitors alike. Photos by Páll Stefánsson. Alda Kravec speaks with Iceland’s only reggae band Hjálmar who released a best selling album last fall, recorded in Jamaica. Your guide to good eating, hot excursions, cool products, best services and more. Cover photo by Páll Stefánsson. C O N T E N T S a Editor: Bjarni Brynjólfsson. Deputy and picture editor: Páll Stefánsson. Contributing writers: Alda Kravec, John Boyce, Mica Allan. Deb Smith. Art director: Erlingur Páll Ingvarsson. Proofreader: ATLANTICA 1 Centre Nature/Centre universitaire de Suðurnes The Nature Centre/University Centre of Suðurnes Garðvegur 1, Sandgerði (Aéroport/Airport: 6 min,Reykjavík: 40 min) L’ATTRACTION DES PÔLES Une exposition permanente sur la vie et l’œuvre de Jean-Baptiste Charcot. Ouvert/Open LUN-VEN/MON-FRI: 9 –17, SAM-DIM/SAT-SUN: 13-17. Renseignements/Information: (354) 423 75551. www.sandgerdi.is THE FOLK MUSEUM AT SKÓGAR preserves the cultural heritage of the Rangárvallasýsla and Vestur-Skaftafellssýsla region, in the form of tools and equipment used at land and at sea, crafts, old buildings, books, manuscripts and documents. Reconstruction of old turf farmhouses has been one of the principal features of the museum’s work. The pride of the museum is the Skógar Church, built in the style which predominated in Iceland from the Middle Ages until the 19th century. Iceland was swept into modernity in an amazingly short time. A new museum, built in 2002, exhibits the development of travel and communication, road building and mechanisation at the beginning of the 20 th century. Visit also the Skógar Boutique and Skógar Café in the new museum. EXPOSITION DE LA FAUNE ISLANDAISE Les oiseaux migrateurs abondent dans la région de Sandgerði. ATTRACTION OF THE POLES An exhibition on the life and fate of the French polar explorer Jean-Baptiste Charcot. EXHIBITION OF THE ICELANDIC FAUNA The Sandgerði region is particularly rich in migratory birds. THE FOLK MUSEUM AT SKÓGAR 861 HVOLSVÖLLUR - OPEN DAILY FROM 9:00 TO 18:00 TEL: (+354) 487 8845 FAX (+354) 487 8848. [email protected] www.skogasafn.is { a Travel Magazine Head Office, Advertising: Welcome to Iceland I have flown in paragliders from steep mountain ridges, I have downhill skied at more than 150 km an hour, climbed hazardous cliffs in the West Fjords to collect the eggs of seabirds, and voyaged through tempest seas on small boats. Never have I been filled with the awe that took hold of me when Páll Stefánsson, Atlantica’s photographer, and I drove through the thick and heavy ash fall that completely darkened the sky on the third day of the volcanic eruption in Eyjafjallajökull glacier. It was only for 15 kilometers and the sky was blue on both sides of the ash blizzard. It made me humble and quiet. I thought to myself, so this is what our planet can get up to when it feels like it. The ash brought international air traffic to a halt all over Europe, disrupting the lives of millions and causing huge damage to businesses worldwide. Yet it looked truly magnificent in the orange and pink glow of the evening sun, seen only a few kilometers away from the town of Hvolsvöllur, constantly spewing huge plumes of ash ten kilometers up into the sky. It was awesome power at play, an archetypical sight which one could hardly stop watching in its enormity. There have been numerous big eruptions in my lifetime and some have been quite hazardous. There was the eruption in the Westman Islands when the whole town of 5,000 people had to be evacuated mostly by fishing vessels which ferried the population to the mainland. I have even seen the famous volcano Hekla erupt. The volcanic activity in this country is interwoven with our lives and we greatly respect its power. We also benefit from it as we heat our homes and public facilities with geothermal water. Volcanic eruptions are met with a certain stoicism in Iceland. We know that this can happen in many places on the island but we are prepared. I admired how well the safety plans for the vicinity near the volcano were carried out and, as the eruption slowed down, how the farmers reacted—starting to clean up their farms and the fields, with the help of hundreds of volunteers. The volcanic ash and the glacial flooding which followed when the eruption started caused huge damage in the vicinity. Yet spring will finally arrive and with the combined effort of man and nature, everything will turn green again—even making the land more fertile than it was. Our volcanic activity is part of what attracts the tourists who come here: the strange crater formations, blowing geysers, hot springs and scenic ice-crested volcanic mountains which thankfully lie dormant most of the time. As for Eyjafjallajökull’s silver-blue icecap, it will return to normal one day and become the pride of the vicinity as it has been for centuries. Earth’s fire will still be boiling underneath—nature’s strongest elements, fire and ice, at play. Enjoy your stay. Bjarni Brynjólfsson Editor Heimur Ltd. Borgartún 23 IS-105 Reykjavík Iceland Tel: (354) 512 7575 Fax: (354) 561 8646 [email protected] [email protected] www.icelandreview.com Overseas Advertising Representatives: Denmark: JB Media International Kongevejen 84, DK-2840 Holte Denmark Phone: (45) 33 85 30 00 Fax: (45) 33 24 28 23 Sweden: SAS Media AB SE-195 87 Stockholm Sweden Tel. (46) 8 797 03 00 Fax (46) 8 728 85 38 Benelux: Media Partners Stroombaan 4 NL-1181 VX Amstelveen The Netherlands Tel. (31) 20 547 3600 Fax (31) 20 647 5121 France: Inflight Media Marketing (IMM) 80 Rue Montmartre F-75002 Paris - France Tel: (33) 1 40 13 00 30 Fax: (33) 1 40 13 00 33 germany: IMM Germany Herrengraben 68 20 459 Hamburg Germany Tel: (49) 40 41 11 50 70 Fax: (49) 40 41 11 50 69 USA: Airgroup One 19 West 36th Street Suite 7 New York, NY 10018 USA Tel. (1) 212 244 5610 Fax (1) 212 244 5321 ATLANTICA 3 Photos BY PÁLL STEFÁNSSON Touching Sky t the top of the world! There are few mountains in Iceland that are more popular for hiking than Mt. Bláhnjúkur in Landmannalaugar, central south highlands. The short hike up the mountain is an excellent warm-up for Iceland’s most popular hiking trail, the 50 kilometer long Laugavegur which starts in Landmannalaugar and ends in Thórsmörk. The trail goes through mountain passes and crosses unbridged rivers and will give you the complete highland experience. Most people complete the journey in three or four days, sleeping in mountain huts along the trail. Those who have the extra energy after this long hike, add one more day to hike over Fimmvörduháls ridge, going from Thórsmörk to Skógar. At Fimmvörduháls, right on the highland rim above Thórsmörk, you will see the site of the small eruption that started 20 March (p. 22). Bon voyage. PS 4 atlantica Photo by Páll Stefánsson A ICELANDI C DESIGN CINTAMANI.IS CINTAMANI AUSTURHRAUN 3 CINTAMANI KRINGLAN CINTAMANI CENTER LAUGAVEGUR 11 210 GARÐABÆ, TEL. 533 3805 103 REYKJAVIK, TEL. 533 3003 101 REYKJAVIK, TEL. 517 8088 on the fly THE MUFFIN MAN “I noticed there weren’t that many good muffins you could get downtown,” says long time foodie Steinar Júlíusson. Famous among friends for his banana-streusel muffins and with the kreppa busting in on his graphic design career, Júlíusson exchanged the Mac for a whisk and decided to do something about the alarming 101 muffin situation. His Meistaramúffur (‘Champion Muffins’) come in two flavors: Nutty Banana and Vegan Blueberry. As for the secret recipe, Atlantica has not persuaded Júlíusson to reveal it yet, but rest assured we are working on it. His muffins are available at Karamba on Laugavegur and Kaffifélagid on Skólavördustígur. For craving emergencies and parties contact [email protected]. THE WILD NIGHT OUT For a night out in Reykjavík, Bakkus is your place. Less pretentious than your usual it-bar, Bakkus is just plain fun. “It’s a bar for drinking, dancing and having a good time, definitely something this country has needed,” says bartender Nick “Fish” Fishleigh, “It is cool and edgy but without the pretence—anyone can come.” You don’t have to scream hip to get in, even if the regulars do make up a good proportion of Reykjavík’s in-crowd. There is foosball, pinball and a photo booth, alongside weekly film screenings and live music. Look out too for the touch of artist-du-jour Davíd Örn Halldórsson, the tables and bar backdrop were all painted by him. Be warned though, Bakkus serves as one of the late night venues in town, closing its doors when the first tour buses are already heading out of town. Tryggvagata 22. Photo Brynjar Gunnarsson / SKARA THE BEDROOM PROCESSIONS With names like Ísafold Chamber Orchestra, Icelandic Opera, Iceland Symphony Orchestra, London Sinfonietta, Sigur Rós, Amiina and Hjaltalín on a long list of past collaborators, and sounds from Stravinsky to David Bowie, Chet Baker to Michael Jackson on his record player, the music of composer and conductor Daniel Bjarnason, 30, has a range as vast as the Icelandic wilderness. His recently published debut album, the modern classical Processions on the local Bedroom Community Label, has garnered raving reviews from the critics, and for good reason—it is intense, dramatic and beautiful. Icelandic rock has long since made itself world famous, perhaps Bjarnason is the Björk of classical music? danielbjarnason.com 6 atlantica The Frozen Trove Downtown Reykjavíker Sari Peltonen collects the unusual, entertaining and hip from the green pastures of Icelandic culture. E-ASY LIVING “A woman has to be a great lover, a kitchen goddess, a mother and successful at work,” says E-label’s Ásta Kristjánsdóttir. E-Label clothes are her answer to the demands of the modern woman’s life. Starting as a few prints for the staff and friends of Kristjánsdóttir’s Model Agency Eskimo, the label was established as a start up company in 2007. The current line hangs on the rails of Topshop in London, and the follow up was just introduced at the Reykjavík Fashion Festival catwalk. For the first time in the label’s all black history, there is color in the new line. The clothing is produced in India, where E-label also works with the Saathi Girls Project, a development project in Mumbai for homeless girls, to which the label donates 3 percent of its annual net profit. e-label.is Hit Parade SNORRI’S SWIMMING POOL What else would one of the earliest manmade constructions in Iceland be than a swimming pool? Saga author, historian, politician and chieftain Snorri Sturluson (1179-1241) took his morning dip in Snorralaug, located 100 kilometers from Reykjavík. All that remains of the farm Sturluson lived on is the cellar tunnel leading to the Snorralaug pool, but in its place stands the Snorrastofa cultural centre, well worth a visit in its own right. If you do fancy a dip though, consider another location—the water in Snorralaug, from the nearby hot spring Skrifla, is at times downright scalding and swimming in the historical spot is not encouraged. Plus with 120,000 visitors stopping for a photo op each year, your plunge might be captured for posterity in all its glory. snorrastofa.is The humorist Hugleikur Dagsson is known for simple strips with stick figures and brutally funny messages. The titles of his past works tell the tale: Is This Some Kind Of A Joke, Should You Be Laughing At This? and Is This Supposed To Be Funny? With previous collections garnering the author a notorious reputation—in Ireland there was public demand to ban his first book altogether—in his brand new book Dagsson lays into the topic of pop music. Popular Hits features over 60 of Dagsson’s hilarious illustrations of the pop music classics of our time. Celine Dion’s Titanic hit ‘My heart will go on’ translates to organ donation, Michael Jackson’s ‘Beat It’ to new methods in child care. Terribly, horribly funny! dagsson.com ATLANTICA 7 on the fly Volcanic Top Gear By Bjarni Brynjólfsson W ant to see how to drive over glaciers and burning hot lava in super jeeps? Watch out for the ‘Volcano Episode’ of TV show Top Gear scheduled to be aired sometime this summer. Jeremy Clarkson and his bunch at Top Gear visited Iceland when the eruption at Fimmvörduháls was at its peak. They drove over the Mýrdalsjökull glacier on one of their favorite vehicles, a Toyota Hi-Lux super jeep, altered for glacier tours by Icelandic car dealer Arctic Trucks which has collaborated with the show on numerous occasions, including their North Pole excursion. Top Gear even invited one of Iceland’s most renowned volcanologists, Haraldur Sigurdsson, to join them on the tour. Sigurdsson has studied volcanoes all over the world and runs the Volcano Museum in his hometown of Stykkishólmur in Snaefellsnes peninsula. Highlight of the tour was when Clarkson drove the Toyota pick-up truck into the glowing lava, setting the front tires on fire. No harm done, the fire was put out immediately and the 38-inch tires were in good shape afterwards. However the stunt stirred some emotions with the sensitive Ministry of Environment in Iceland which has been running a campaign to prevent super jeep owners and tourists driving off road. Such practice is far from welcome in Iceland because it leaves marks on the delicate barren landscape in the highlands. We forgive Top Gear as their tire marks were soon replaced by streaming lava, ash and other good stuff from the belly of Mother Earth. a 8 atlantica S K IS SA ... for all conditions ICEWEAR clothes and products are available at the following stores: REYKJAVÍK: Handprjónasambandið, Laugavegur 64 The Viking, Hafnarstræti 3 The Viking, Laugavegur 1 Islandia, Kringlan Icefin, Nóatún 17 Ull og Gjafavörur, Hótel Saga Ísey, Laugavegur 23 Hitt hornið, Laugavegur 100 Álafoss, Mosfellsbær OTHER LOCATIONS: The Viking, Hafnarstræti 104, Akureyri Sport og útivist, Á stéttinni, Húsavík Selið, Mývatn Mývatnsmarkaður, Mývatn Gullfosskaffi, Gullfoss Geysir Shop, Haukadal Byggðasafnið, Skógar Víkwool, Vík í Mýrdal Drífa ehf, Suðurhraun 12 C, 210 Garðabær, Sími 555 7400, Fax. 555 7401, [email protected], www.icewear.is onthe theFly fly On Books Compiled by Páll Stefánsson and Eygló Svala Arnarsdóttir. Screaming Nature Iceland—So Quiet is a new book by photographer Kristján Ingi Einarsson, with text by Ari Trausti Gudmundsson. Iceland—So Quiet is the second photography book by Einarsson after his best seller, The Essence of Iceland, published last year. Iceland—So Quiet is kind of a ‘best of Iceland’ as all the top tourist spots are included. The photographer does not try to make art; the places are simply shown as they are, nothing less, nothing more. The small format of the book makes it the perfect souvenir, after visiting all fifty-three places in the book. His favorite part of the country must be Snaefellsnes peninsula which gets seven photographs in the book, his least favorite, North West Iceland as there is not a single photograph from Húnavatnssýsla district. Einarsson’s focus, in his own words, is on the unspoiled and unassuming tranquility of Iceland’s landscape. In that he has done a good job. PS Subtle Excellence When I first heard of Christina Sunley’s debut The Tricking of Freya I thought it would be some wishy-washy mystical tale loosely based on Norse mythology, Icelandic sagas and unrealistic stereotypes of Vikings. However, I quickly realized that this is a completely different kind of book and found myself pleasantly surprised. The main protagonist, Freya, is an American girl whose grandparents migrated from Iceland to North America. Freya grows up with her oldfashioned and sensible mother in a quiet suburb in Connecticut and spends her summers with her grandmother and aunt in Gimli, New Iceland, Canada, where she learns all about the home country. The Tricking of Freya is primarily a story of broken relationships and family secrets. It is also a story of the conflict immigrant families often experience between preserving their roots and cultural heritage and adapting to their new home. As such, the stage could have been set within any immigrant community but Sunley chose her own, spicing it up with references to Norse mythology and Icelandic sagas without making those factors dominant. ESA A new book by photographer Vigfús Birgisson, 22 Places You Absolutely Must See in Iceland, is a grand journey to the places you must not miss when traveling in Iceland. The text by Jonas Moody adds flavor and history to the special places photographed. This first book by Birgisson is visually strong and takes you on a grand tour around Iceland. It is always difficult to make the perfect list, but here they do it successfully. This is Icelandic nature at full force but there are no images from Reykjavík or the small fishing villages on the coastline. My favorite is a photograph of Ásbyrgi. PS 10 atlantica Photos by Páll Stefánsson Catch 22 Training DVD by master trainer Benedikt Líndal. Languages: Icelandic, English, German and Swedish Harmony A beautiful book by master trainer Benedikt Líndal combining education, pure feeling and stunning pictures. Hrímnir X-change Exchangeable gullet, change the width of the saddle yourself. Impact jodhpurs. Great fit for both ladies and men on the fly The Good Food By Deb Smith A s my son Conor toured the Settlement Exhibition in downtown Reykjavík, I leafed through Icelandic cookbooks in the shops. I purchased Nanna Rögnvaldardóttir’s Cool Dishes: Traditional Icelandic Cuisine, a tiny hardcover gem, written in English, that offers a satisfying tour of everyday Icelandic food. The book includes food difficult to find outside Iceland (smoked lamb, for instance) but plenty that I could cook at home, along with beautiful color photographs for most recipes. At the supermarkets in Mosfellsbaer and the capital, Conor and I gazed longingly into freezer chests at vast bags of fiskibollur (fish balls) and whole sides of frozen Icelandic mountain lamb. If I could only take a bag of fish balls home to America, or wrap a side of lamb in newsprint, zip it into my backpack and carry it on board! But with our luck someone would use a rump roast to hijack a plane before we left Iceland, and frozen fiskibollur would be banned as deadly weapons. We sighed and walked off to buy canned mixed vegetables 12 atlantica with rutabaga (something else you don’t see in America) and more flavors of skyr than I could eat at one sitting. Sitting in front of my computer, the Iceland Review Online multimedia cookery presentations hold my rapt attention, and now with my new book I could start my Icelandic cook-and-bake adventures. Back home in my American kitchen, the challenge was irresistible. After opening Cool Dishes and firing up my laptop to watch the Iceland Review video, I cooked cod to make fiskibollur. About the size of oblong jawbreakers, I fried enough tasty little fish balls for a small crowd. Luckily fiskibollur freeze well and became a quick dinner solution for the three of us. A dozen or so frozen fiskibollur popped on a plate can be microwaved for about a minute, divided evenly among the diners, then served with potatoes and a green salad. Life is good. Eventually spring arrived where I live and rhubarb grew. My husband likes rhubarb crumble as dessert. But just thinking about the copious amounts Photo by Páll Stefánsson A good cookbook is a great travel memento. But it’s also a challenge: can I really bake-boil-grill-sauté-or-roast the local cuisine like someone who lives there? Why not? C M Y CM MY CY CMY anton&bergur K www.bluelagoon.com Photo by Páll Stefánsson on the fly The elegant Vínarterta (Vienna Cake) also called randalín (the striped lady). of sugar in rhubarb crumble made my teeth ache. There’s a recipe in Cool Dishes for rabarbarasulta, rhubarb jam. Far less sugar is eaten with jam on toast than a bowlful of dessert, right? When I decided to make jam, I noticed the Icelandic recipes were all metric measures. Converting from metric to ounces isn’t hard, but try explaining to an American farmer you’d like 1,500 grams of their red rhubarb! At our Farmer’s Market I pointed to the largest bunch and hoped for the best. Later, I weighed the cut-up stalks on my kitchen scale. Combined with a little Internet searching, I developed the quick conversion chart below: Metric 500 g 1000 g (1 kg) 1500 g 190˚ Centigrade Standard 1.1 lbs 2.2 lbs 3.3 lbs 375˚ Fahrenheit From here I could go anywhere. Rhubarb is a vegetable full of natural pectin and grows well in Iceland. Combining only sugar and chopped rhubarb in a bowl for a few hours produced a juicy pink mixture. Without added water I brought the mix slowly to a boil, simmering until it became a thick, delightfully gloppy, glossy jam. A tart-sweet rhubarb aroma filled my kitchen. It filled six jam jars too, processed for 10 minutes in a water-bath canner. On buttered toast, rhubarb jam is magical: my husband thought he’d died and gone to heaven. On the page across from rabarbarasulta in Cool Dishes was a recipe for Vínarterta (Vienna cake), a butter based dough. Was this the ‘Icelandic Pop Tarts’ we saw in a Reykjavík bakery? Alas, Internet research showed me Vínarterta is usually made in rounds, sandwiched together with jam, stacked six tall, then eaten as a cake. But the batter was easy to cut into small rounds, bake and sandwich with rhubarb jam. A little light pink icing and pastel sugar strands frosted the cookies. Not the ‘Icelandic Pop You can find traditional Icelandic recipes at Iceland Review online icelandreview.com. 14 atlantica Tarts’ I’d seen, but close...and scrumptious. They quickly disappeared. On it went: I made my own skyr (another whole story) but I’m still searching for a good recipe. It would be fun to make Icelandic leaf bread, laufabraud—but in Iceland, where someone could teach me to make it. Finally my brother-in-law offered me several packets of venison from his recent hunting trip. Of course whitetail deer are not reindeer (Bambi is not Rudolph the Red-Nosed One) but this venison created something savory and Icelandic for dinner. My niece came to join us for hreindýrasteik med raudvínssósu, reindeer steaks with red wine sauce. Can I cook like an Icelander? Not exactly, but I’m getting better at it. So here’s a message for all Icelanders: be proud of your traditional dishes. Remember you have me too, inviting the rest of the world to savor everyday Icelandic cuisine—one fiskibollur, one jar of rhubarb jam, one Vínarterta cake and one deer steak in red wine sauce at a time. a ICELAND REVIEW VOLUME 48 APRIL SPRING 2010 desIgned by women foR women Iceland Review JÓNSI ON THE GO Jónsi from Sigur Rós goes solo. LUMPSUCKER SPRING WALK ON THE WILD SIDE MAMMA GO GO THE UNPROMISING BALLERINA A NEW SHOW ON EARTH EXPLODED ISK 899 USD 7.50 DKK 89 0 56698 ICeLAndIC desIgn 48.01 2010 22639 THE SPECTACULAR ERUPTION IN FIMMVÖRDUHÁLS – 24 PAGES 0 0103 2010 ICELAND REVIEW HAVE A GREAT FISH DAY VOLUME 47 47.03 2009 THE MAN OF A MILLION TREES CREATIVE CUT WILD AT HEART THE ALUMINUM LADY Laugavegur 1 • 101 Reykjavík • Iceland Tel: +354 511 0991 www.elm.is • [email protected] ISSUE 3 OCTOBER FALL 2009 SEEDS OF CHANGE ISK 899 USD 7.50 DKK 89 0 56698 THE BIG SWITCH 22639 HOW ICELAND CAN BECOME GREEN AND ORGANIC 0 03 2009 For subscriptions visit www.icelandreview.com or phone +354 512 7575 Hand in Hand witH nature bags and accessories All new subscribers enter our sweepstakes for a free trip to Iceland with Icelandair in fish skin By Mica Allan The Eurovision Song Contest is a grand festival in Iceland. Atlantica traces the national history of the contest and meets with Hera Björk, Iceland’s entry for this year’s extravaganza. 16 atlantica T here’s an annual event in Iceland that can best be described as New Year’s Eve in the spring. Everyone is caught up in a flurry of excitement. People plan parties around it, the requisite food is organized with chips and dips and long lines can be found at the state run liquor store, Vínbúd, with everyone stocking up. What’s more, everyone has an opinion about this event and it’s guaranteed to get everyone in Iceland talking. I am, of course, speaking of the Eurovision Song Contest. And yes, it’s that time of year again, as the contest draws nearer, this time hosted by Oslo, Norway. Since 1986, Iceland has taken part twentyone times in this musical extravaganza that puts fashion front and centre almost as much as the music, be it ballads, rock and roll, classical or just plain wacky. The first Icelandic entry to grace the Eurovision stage was the trio Icy whose smart, shoulder-padded uniforms made them resemble staff on a cruise ship. Their upbeat song ‘The Bank of Joy’ contained the message that you shouldn’t take out more than you put into the bank of joy. Wise words in recent times, perhaps, especially given the world economic climate. However, arguably one of the most popular Icelandic Eurovision entries of all time is ‘A Dream about Nina,’ performed by Stebbi and Eyvi (Stefán Hilmarsson and Eyjólfur Kristjánsson) in 1991, looking like a then more modern day version of Teddy Boys in their bold, jewel colored jackets. This was more of a ballad and although it only came 15th out of 22 competitors, the song still receives airplay on Iceland’s radio stations and when it’s played in Iceland’s nightclubs and bars, Icelanders tend to join in. Throughout the years, Iceland has secured second place twice: in 1999 when Selma Björnsdóttir, accompanied by two men dancing in raincoats, delivered a buoyant and breezy song, ‘All Out of Luck’; and in 2009, Jóhanna Gudrún Jónsdóttir came second with the mournful and poignant ballad, ‘Is it True?’ At the other end of the spectrum there have also been catastrophic years when Iceland found itself at the bottom of the pile. Daníel Ágúst sang ‘That Which Nobody Sees’ in 1989 and heard the infamous words no contestant ever wants to hear, “zero points.” Similarly, in 2001, the duo Two Tricky Photos by Gudmundur Thor Kárason / Ólöf Erla Einarsdóttir Chameleon of Many Colors On the Fly performed the song ‘Angel’ and received just three points. And it simply would not be the done thing to write an article on Iceland and Eurovision without mentioning Páll Óskar Hjálmtýsson, Iceland’s King of Eurovision, who performed the sultry dance number ‘My Last Dance’ in 1997 with his black leather, fishnet stockinged harem troop of dancers. Given the range of singers, performers, outfits and drama that explode on our screens in Eurovision, what does Iceland have to offer this year? This year’s contestant, Hera Björk Thórhallsdóttir, had already given three interviews when I sat down to talk to her at one o’clock on a Saturday. She tells me she still retains fond memories of singing into her hairbrush and dancing alongside the sofa when she watched Eurovision as a child. Little did she know then that she would be representing Iceland in the Eurovision Song Contest with the song ‘Je ne sais quoi’. Currently, her life is full of rehearsals, meetings, recording her third solo album, dress fittings, exercising and in between all that finding time for her partner and two children. “This can be tough on the family,” confides Hera Björk, “So much focus is on me just now that others around me can lose their identity as everyone is constantly asking about me. It’s a very busy time.” As a jazz, pop, rock, R&B and classical singer, Hera Björk has to ponder when I ask her which her true musical passion is. “Rock singing and jazz would be my favorites, and performing with an orchestra—well, that’s something I really can’t say no to. I also love singing ballads for small audiences but then there’s the thrill of singing in front 15,000 people.” She is indeed a musical chameleon with her inspirations as far reaching as jazz legend, Sarah Vaughan, modern icon George Michael—who brings out her maternal side, “I just want to hug him,” she gushes—and American heavy metal star, Ronnie James Dio. Since 2004, Hera Björk has been a passionate advocate of the Complete Vocal Technique she learned from Danish entrepreneur, Cathrine Sadolin. Hera Björk now trains and coaches this method throughout Europe and Iceland. “This tool has not only increased my own vocal range but has taught me greater responsibility as a singer. I now know I can completely control my voice and it’s totally changed the way I look at myself as a singer.” Her own musical career started in earnest over twenty years ago. In 1987, a fifteen-year-old Hera Björk made her debut in a competition in the south of Iceland, singing the Fairground Attraction hit ‘Perfect’. This indeed proved to be a perfect choice as she won first prize. Her musical passion started to diversify a few years later. She sang in the musical The Rocky Horror Picture Show in 1995 and performed in the chamber choir Schola Cantorum in Hallgrímskirkja church in Reykjavík between 1996 and 2004. Weekend performances in Reykjavík with the pop group 17 Vélar were sandwiched in between studying for a degree in business and marketing in Akureyri. Spreading her wings further afield, there followed a period as the TV host of a local entertainment show. In 2000 she recorded her first solo album. In addition, she’s appeared in musicals in Iceland as broad ranging as Little Shop of Horrors, Kiss me Kate and Evita. Given all this, you’d think she would be a novice in the world of Eurovision. However, it’s quite the contrary. Whilst 2010 is indeed the first time she is Iceland’s representative, Hera Björk is no stranger to the song contest. She was both coach and backing vocalist for the Icelandic entries, ‘This is my Life’ (2008) and the Eurovision 2009 runner-up ‘Is it True?’ However, the real catalyst for Hera Björk deciding she wanted to represent Iceland could be described as an ironic twist of fate and something that she describes as her most profound musical experience to date, namely, when she won second place in the 2009 Danish Eurovision Final with the song ‘Someday’. “At that point I was a relative unknown in Denmark,” says Hera Björk, “but that result changed everything. I was competing with Danish singers who were very strong and coming second really opened doors for me. Suddenly, people were talking about the woman that had blown them away with this big, powerful voice. I had so much fun, it was like being a child in a candy store.” Meanwhile, Hera Björk’s success in Denmark was watched with great interest by Icelanders. “Icelanders became very territorial, really, and felt almost a sense of ownership over me. I decided there and then that I wanted to sing for Iceland in Eurovision in 2011. The plan had been to have one year off but then ‘Je ne Sais quoi’ came along and here I am singing in 2010.” And with that, Hera Björk leaves me with a twinkle in her eye. a The Eurovision Song Contest is held in Oslo, Norway, May 25, 27 and 29. On the Fly Paradoxical Painting A fter wrapping up his last exhibit in January, Thrándur Thórarinsson wastes little time getting to work on his next project. “I’m thinking of calling it Capricci Paintings,” he says and motions to the large 2 by 2.5 meter work in progress behind me, which depicts a familiar scene in Reykjavík nowadays: a public demonstration on Austurvöllur, the town square in front of Althingi. 18 atlantica But there is something decidedly anachronistic about this depiction. A man stands on a soapbox addressing a crowd, all of whom are dressed in clothing more reminiscent of the turn of the 20th century. “Those police uniforms never even existed like that here and you can see that I have adjusted the architecture in the background more to my liking.” By incorporating fanciful elements into his otherwise realistic cityscapes, Thórarinsson thus pays homage to the capriccio style that emerged among 18th-century Italian painters. Born in 1978, Thrándur is a young painter immersed in an old-world aesthetic. He spends most of his days in his studio-cum-apartment in downtown Reykjavík painting oil on canvas scenes with old masters such as Rembrandt and Goya Photo by Páll Stefánsson Alda Kravec explores the mythical worlds of Thrándur Thórarinsson, a young artist who paints with an old hand. EIDERDOWN DUVETS WELCOME TO OUR EIDERDOWN COMFORTER FACTORY SHOP IN THE CENTRE OF REYKJAVÍK. We offer the largest selection of quality white goose-, swan-, duck-, and eiderdown comforters and pillows in all international sizes. Wholesale - Retail - Taxfree world wide export Laugavegur 87 - 101 Reykjavík Tel. +354 511 2004 Mobile: +354 861 4186 Fax + 354 511 2003 E-mail: [email protected] www.dunogfidur.is www.alafoss.is Icelandic wool and souvenirs 1896 1896 Álafossvegur 23, Mosfellsbær - Open mon. - fri.: 9:00 - 18:00 & sat.: 9:00 - 16:00 a Day Tripping Photo by Páll Stefánsson On the Fly in mind. Thórarinsson’s subject matter, however, remains decisively local as he draws heavily from Icelandic history, sagas and folktales. He has painted dramatic scenes from Njáll’s Saga as well as popular legends such as the enchanting Merman, the gruesome Grýla and the disappearance of Reverend Oddur from Miklabaer. He has visually rendered momentous historical events such as the Christianization of Iceland in 1000, the beheading of the Catholic bishop Jón Arason in 1550, and the Turkish Abductions that took place in the Westman Islands in 1627. Thórarinsson’s work is thus putting a face on collective memories that have been preserved since the settlement period largely through oral and written traditions. Visual correlatives to these literary traditions have been conspicuously absent. “The history of painting in this country is just so short,” Thórarinsson confirms when I ask him whether his art is not a throwback to some antiquated genre of Icelandic painting. Indeed, it is common to locate the beginning of painting and visual arts in Iceland at the start of the 20th century with landscape painters such as Thórarinn Thorláksson (1867-1924), Ásgrímur Jónsson (1876-1958) and Jón Stefánsson (1881-1962). Although some of these pioneering painters did incorporate folktale elements into their work, Thórarinsson does not follow in their footsteps, but rather asserts with a certain disdain, “They were all under the influence of Cezanne.” Apparently Thórarinsson does not seek inspiration from post-impressionism. Nor does he subscribe to more recent currents of modernism as his work clearly stands apart from art being produced in Iceland today. To be sure, his work embodies a telling paradox, which underscores a peculiarity in the development of modern art in Iceland. Not only is Thórarinsson’s work unconventional by contemporary standards, it represents a new phenomenon in a country that has no history of history painting. And yet by evoking the old masters, by using live models for all his 20 atlantica figurative composition and by working exclusively with oil applied layer by layer, Thórarinsson obviously employs a conservative practice of painting. Thórarinsson’s methodology sets him apart from his contemporaries. Indeed, his traditional painting is hardly a fashionable trend in the Icelandic visual arts scene, but he is not about to let that deter him. On the contrary, he contends, “This is more fun than trying to be hip and cool; I mean to take something that is considered tacky and outdated and put a new spin on it.” Although he was accepted into Iceland’s Academy of the Arts, he soon became frustrated with the Academy’s modernist agenda. “They do not offer courses in model drawing or composition. I think all art students could benefit from such courses, regardless of the direction of modern art.” So Thórarinsson withdrew from the Academy and instead began a three year apprenticeship with the controversial, Norwegian figurative painter Odd Nerdrum, who was living in Iceland at the time. Renowned for his opposition to the predominance of modernism and conceptual art within Norway’s Academy of the Arts as well as his appropriation of the term ‘kitsch’ as a positive concept, Nerdrum’s ideas and style palpably resonate in Thórarinsson’s work. However, in speaking with Thórarinsson, one immediately gets the sense that he is not so much an agitator as a mellow, somewhat reclusive type, just doing his own thing. In fact, he concedes, “With the exception of modern architecture…I have nothing against modern art, though I might find much of it tiresome.” Thórarinsson’s next exhibit will be his fourth in less than three years. Each exhibition has boasted between 10 and 20 oil paintings sometimes stretching as far as 2.5 by 2.3 meters in size. It is evident that Thórarinsson possesses that rare gift coveted by most aspiring artists, a passion that registers in a prolific turn out. Then again, painting is no part-time pastime, it is his livelihood. Direct and refreshingly accessible, his work has been well received by the general public here. But he does not paint in order to impress others: “Sure, appealing to the public is a plus and I’ve never received a bad review in the papers, but I don’t know what the art critics would think of my work.” Nor does he want to confine himself to just one subject or genre and his exhibitions testify to an ever evolving style, from the darkly hued, figurative images of his first two shows and the focus on landscape in his last exhibition Áfangar, to the more brightly colored and fantastical elements of his cappricci paintings. Still, for the most part his subjects remain distinctively local, namely Icelandic, and though unconventional by today’s standards, it is perhaps tempting to interpret the spirit of such work as reactionary. After all, landscape painting in Iceland is intimately connected to the independence movement and the rise of nationalism in the early 20th century. However, Thórarinsson firmly rejects the connection with respect to his work: “I’m not at all comfortable with the fact that people often connect these two things, so that if you express an interest in folklore then you are thought to be a nationalist. On the contrary, I would rather see more immigrants in Iceland and more things done to accommodate refugees seeking asylum here.” In reference to the decade long struggle of Muslims to obtain the right to build a mosque in Reykjavík, Thórarinsson continues: “I have been thinking about painting a beautiful mosque into one of my Reykjavík [capricci] paintings. It would be the first beautiful construction to appear in this city during the past 50 years.” In the end, Thórarinsson shows how combining the old and the new is not mere fantasy; traditional techniques can be made relevant to a society in need of a fresh coat of paint. Thrándur Thórarinsson is currently planning his next exhibition in Reykjavík during early summer 2010. His previous work and contact details can be viewed online at skakkapopp.is. a ICELAND :: FILM – Berlin – Copenhagen – Reykjavík Icelandic Filmmaking 1904-2009 EXHIBITIONS - GUIDED TOURS CAFETERIA - CULTURE SHOP MEDIEVAL MANUSCRIPTS – EDDAS AND SAGAS The Ancient Vellums on Display The Culture House – Þjóðmenningarhúsið National Centre for Cultural Heritage Hverfisgata 15 · 101 Reykjavík (City Centre) Tel: 545 1400 · www.thjodmenning.is ICELANDERS – AN EXHIBITION OF PHOTOGRAPHS The spirit of the Icelandic nation in words and images Open daily between 11 am and 5 pm Free guided tour of THE MEDIEVAL MANUSCRIPTS exhibition Mon and Fri at 3:30 pm. Whale Watching and Puffin Island Daily departures from Reykjavik Whale Watching Centre Other adventures at sea 1.600m 2 of interesting facts about whales and several breathtaking life-sized exhibits. A must for anyone interested in whales. Tour Operator Authorised by Icelandic Tourist Board The Húsavík Whale Museum Hafnarstétt 1, 640 Húsavík. Tel.: 414 2800 [email protected] http://whalemuseum.is Elding Reykjavik Whale Watching www.elding.is Tel. 555 3565 Tricky Volcano Photos by Páll Stefánsson O n 20 March, a small scenic eruption started in Fimmvörduháls, close to Eyjafjallajökull glacier, and lasted for three weeks. Thousands of tourists visited the rugged Fimmvörduháls mountain ridge above Thórsmörk valley to see the small eruption. They got there hiking, snowmobiling, on super jeeps and helicopters, admiring the fascinating show Mother Earth put on. Then the eruption stopped. After two days of no volcanic activity, early in the morning of 14 April, a big eruption started on top of Eyjafjallajökull glacier. This time it was no small and cozy tourist eruption. It was a full-blown eruption in the middle of a glacier, sending huge plumes of ash into the stratosphere. Not only did it affect Iceland, but for five days it halted nearly all air traffic in the whole of Europe, disrupting life as we know it. Let us quote the ‘Earthly Powers’ editorial in The Economist on 22 April. “One of the things that went missing in the shadow of that volcanic dust was a sense of human power. And as with the quiet skies, this absence found a welcome in many hearts. The idea that humans, for all their technological might, could be put in their place by this volcano—this obscure, unpronounceable, C-list volcano—was strangely satisfying, even thrilling.” We could not agree more. Since the eruption started the whole world has been desperately trying to pronounce the tricky Icelandic name of Eyjafjallajökull, so here is AP News Service’s recommended phonetic spelling suggestion ay-yah-FYAH’-plah-yer-kuh-duhl. To tell you the truth we also grapple with that version. Being close to the volcano was no fun at all. Pitch black heavy ash fall, blocking the sun—an out of this world experience—and thundering explosions grinding magma from the belly of the earth to fine dust. But after a week, the volcano started to calm down, having melted huge holes in the icecap of Eyjafjallajökull and covered the farmland under the glacier in black ash. How long will the eruption last? Maybe it will be over tomorrow, the day after tomorrow, or it will last a couple of years. No one knows. PS 22 atlantica Tourists approaching the eruption at Fimmvörduháls, with Eyjafjallajökull volcano in the background. atlantica 23 a Tricky Volcano Glowing lava rivers from the eruption created spectacular falls streaming from the highland rim into the steep ravines of Thórsmörk valley. 24 atlantica Spectators gazing at the eruption at dusk. atlantica 25 a Tricky Volcano Eyjafjallajökull volcano blowing ash, steam and brimstone at full force. The ash is created when the glowing magma meets melting ice from the glacier, causing titanic explosions which grind the lava to dust. The photograph is taken at sunset 17 April. 26 atlantica atlantica 27 a Tricky Volcano A night shot of the volcano showing the glow of the eruption. On some nights there was a lot of lightning activity in the ash plumes as electricity is created when the fire hits the ice. 28 atlantica atlantica 29 a Tricky Volcano Coming through pitch black darkness in the middle of a sunny day. The ash fall over Eyjafjallasveit was an incredible sight and caused a lot of damage to the fertile farmlands. None of the photographs on these pages have been touched up or altered. 30 atlantica Jökulsárlón lagoon Cruising among the icebergs Jökulsárlón’s boat company offers 30-40 min. cruises around this spectacular lake all summer from May to September. Allows you to get right up close to the icebergs. i n f o r m at i o n + 3 5 4 4 7 8 2 2 2 2 o r w w w. j o k u l s a r l o n . i s Margrét Sigfúsdóttir, Headmistress of the Home Economics School. 32 atlantica Keeping House by Mica AllAn Photos by Páll Stefánsson Home economics may sound old fashioned but the Home Economics School in Reykjavík is still going strong after nearly seventy years of operation. Located in one of Reykjavík’s grand old buildings it still attracts girls—and boys alike—who want to learn how to cook, clean and sew properly. T here can’t be many schools that still evoke the nostalgia of a bygone era, that possess cozy, little details yet at the heart contain the rigors of a sound educational philosophy. So, I was surprised when I visited one such Icelandic establishment, the Home Economics School—Hússtjórnarskólinn, one of only two left in Iceland—and spent an afternoon in this elegant house in the heart of Reykjavík with Headmistress, Margrét Sigfúsdóttir. My first, overwhelming impression upon entering the building was that although it has been a school since 1942, there is nothing institutional about it. Flower filled vases, rugs and paintings added a homely feel. Very fitting, I thought, given that the school’s raison d’être is to teach housekeeping skills. Sigfúsdóttir ushered me into her light filled office which, judging from the papers on her desk and the coffee and pancakes on offer, was both a hive of industry and a place from which to entertain. Elegant and focused, she spoke passionately about her role and the school, and it soon became clear that not only did she know what she was talking about but that this was one housemistress who ran a tight yet loving ship. An experienced cookery teacher, Sigfúsdóttir has been headmistress since it became an independent school in 1989 and subsequently received less funding from the government. Whilst her passion remains teaching cookery, her role as head also involves elements of admin- The school is located in one of Reykjavík’s most elegant villas on the west side of town. istration and business development, renting out both public rooms to local interest groups at the weekends and residential quarters to holidaymakers and students over the summer. However, the role of headmistress and the purpose of Hússtjórnarskólinn were once very different. In the 1940s the school served a different need in a different era, when there were less educational opportunities for girls. Coming from the Danish custom, Hússtjórnarskólinn provided young women with the skills to run a household and it is perhaps no accident that the school itself used to be run like a household. In those days, all students boarded at the school, even if there were young women who lived in the next street. The headmistress lived on site and would read to the students in the evenings when young women were not permitted to go out after dinner, it being deemed not the ‘proper’ thing for ladies to do. Completing the cozy picture, a resident housekeeper made hot chocolate and cakes for all. Some seventy years later, things have moved on a bit. The majority of students remain between eighteen and twenty-four years old yet they can now gain credits from their studies to contribute towards the general Icelandic school curriculum. They are also now free to come and go in the evenings and have the choice of boarding. In addition, given the liberalization of women in recent years, there has even been a girlfriend and boyfriend who both attended the atlantica 33 a Keeping House Students learn cooking, cleaning, weaving, sowing among other practical things useful for running a home. Here making gravlax in the kitchen and sowing. school and boarded in the same room. Times have indeed moved on. I ask Sigfúsdóttir about the school’s demographic and although she says the overwhelming majority of the students remain women, there have been a few cases of young men attending the school in recent years. Furthermore, in the late 1980s the school ran a series of short evening courses which attracted a number of men. She explains that although women now have greater choices available to them, running a home, whether it contains just them or a large family, remains a given and learning how to do this efficiently is a skill from which they themselves can directly benefit. So, what exactly do they learn here? I wondered. Was instruction given on the broad fundamentals or was it all about the froth of women being modeled into Stepford Wives, complete with glassy smiles and demure and obliging demeanors? I was to learn that the curriculum is practical and no nonsense, with no froth in sight. Firstly, the 24 students are divided into two groups, with one group spending seven weeks learning crafts—sewing, needlework, knitting and weaving—whilst the other group learn how to run a house—ironing, washing, cleaning, cooking, baking and learning about nutrition. The groups then rotate. If working nine to five on such skills were not 34 atlantica enough, two events showcase and celebrate the students’ new skills. Firstly, a formal dinner for students and their families, complete with table linen and silver. Students spend two days preparing the meal, before changing into their finery and joining their families to enjoy the fruits of their labor. A glowing Sigfúsdóttir proudly tells me that this is a much looked forward to event. Meanwhile, those students who have been developing their craftwork talents have an open day where they show their creations to the community. This too is a much loved event by local residents and former students. During my tour of the school Sigfúsdóttir leads me through its labyrinth like corridors and introduces me to women contentedly knitting away and happily absorbed with their sewing. Again, the word that comes to my mind is ‘cozy’. I may not have had the basic ability to even knit a scarf as a youngster but the atmosphere alone, not to mention the knowledge and skills that the students learn, is a huge magnet to even a novice like myself. Sigfúsdóttir may have a point. Times have moved on, but we still need to eat well, wash our clothes and clean our homes; these fundamentals remain. My time at Hússtjórnarskólinn has shown me that these skills are taught in a way that is both respectful to the heritage of the school and fitting in today’s modern society. a Times have moved on, but we still need to eat well, wash our clothes and clean our homes; these fundamentals remain. Icelandic Design Jewelry Icecold 14 kt. Gold Collection PI PAR • SÍA • 80762 Lavastones www.jonogoskar.is Laugavegur 61 / Smáralind / Kringlan Brynja Laugavegi 29, 101 Reykjavík Veiðihornið Síðumúla 8, 108 Reykjavík Tel.: (+354) 899 6903 [email protected] www.knifemaker.is Icelandreview.com Daily News from Iceland Laugavegur 1 • Reykjavík • 581 1250 Hafnarstræti 3 • Reykjavík • 551 1250 Hafnarstræti 104 • Akureyri • 4615551 Mythical Mývatn by John Boyce Photos by Páll stefánsson 36 36 a at t ll a an nt t ii c ca a T he Icelandic countryside is replete with many of the natural wonders of the world, from volcanoes and glaciers to spectacular waterfalls. Among these jewels of nature is Lake Mývatn and its surrounding hinterland. The Mývatn region takes its name from the prodigious quantity of flies (mý in Icelandic) that congregate around the lake (vatn is lake or water in Icelandic). In the summer the hotels, guest houses and campsites of the lake buzz with international life. Some come for its abundance of wildlife, others for its surreal volcanic beauty. A third strand of interest is the rich tradition of legend and lore that has grown out of this most unique of aquatic formations. a at t ll a an nt t ii c ca a 37 37 a Mythical Mývatn The Landscape In geological terms, Mývatn is what is known as a shallow eutrophic lake situated in a highly active volcanic area in the north of Iceland. The stunning vistas of Mývatn and its surrounding hinterland are the result of complex and awe inspiring processes that began more than 2,300 years ago. A large fissure eruption produced an enormous amount of basaltic lava which flowed down the Laxárdalur valley into the Arctic Ocean, creating a crater row on top of the fissure. At this time a large lake was in the region, the precursor to the present day Lake Mývatn. When the flowing lava came into contact with the lake some of the underlying lake sediment became trapped, provoking steam explosions which broke off and expelled chunks of lava with great force. Repeated explosions such as these helped to shape the crater pocked landscape on the shores of Lake Mývatn and produced the volcanic islands that punctuate the surface of the water. The effect is one of the most surreal and mystical landscapes that Iceland has to offer the visitor. Though the formation of the lake can be dated to about 2,300 years ago, it is just one in a series of periods of intense volcanism that began at the close of the Ice Age more than 10,000 years ago. A new cycle began with a series of explosions in the 1720s that culminated in the creation of the exquisite crater lake of Víti. A crater lake, as the name suggests, is when a lake is created by precipitation in the crater of an active or dormant volcano. Víti, though small in comparison to the great crater lakes of China or even other places in Iceland, has an exquisite charm of its own. The Mývatn region remains a highly active volcanic area with no fewer than nine eruptions between 1975 and 1984, while its continental drift measured a staggering 4.8 meters. This impressive show of nature’s power was not only spectacular but was also groundbreaking in scientific terms, giving scientists their first real opportunity to study plate tectonics on dry land. 38 atlantica The Lake Life The area’s ecological value is such that Mývatn, the river Laxá and the surrounding wetlands have been taken under governmental protection in the form of the Mývatn-Laxá Nature Conservation Area. The intense volcanic activity not only makes for stunning geological formations and a unique landscape, but is also partly responsible for the abundance of wild life in the area. The lake, due to its unique formation, is fed by immensely nutrient-rich spring water which in turn creates an abundance of aquatic insects and water flies which saturate the area in summer. A common sight is the unsuspecting visitor vainly attempting to erect their tent in the campsite while simultaneously engaged in a futile slapping match with the midges. Though these irritating creatures may be the bane of tourists and locals alike, in the short summer months they are manna from heaven for the local wildlife, particularly ducks, with no less than 13 species making their seasonal home on the shores of the lake. For the nature lover and the expert ornithologist alike, the region is a font of knowledge as the combination of duck species is a unique blend of American, Eurasian, Boreal and Arctic species. There are tens of thousands of birds in the district in summer. The population of over 2,000 Barrow’s Goldeneye ducks rely completely on the habitat provided by the Mývatn /Laxá water system and the lava fields that surround them. Most of the bird species nest in the many islands on the lake and in the adjoining marshland. It is a long held tradition that duck eggs are served as a delicacy at local farms, though strict harvesting etiquette demands that at least 3 to 4 eggs are left in each nest for the ducks to incubate. The maintenance of such etiquette is just one of the concerns of the nearby Mývatn Research Station. The station is an Ecological Research Institute run under the auspices of the Icelandic Ministry of the Environment. It is concerned with monitoring the ever evolving wildlife situation and the geological developments that inherently shape life in the ecosystem. The area itself is a protected nature reserve managed by the environment and food agency of Iceland backed up by information from the station. Árni Einarsson, a professor at the University of Iceland, is head of the station and he underlines the importance of the region in ecological terms. “Mývatn is one of those rare locations on earth where the composition of the earth and water provides a truly unique habitat.” According to Einarsson, Iceland’s position between the continents means the species composition of the biota (microscopic life upon which fish and wildlife feed) is uniquely rich. “It is essentially based on an immensely phosphate rich groundwater which settles at a level very convenient to the survival of aquatic plants and water fowl,” he says. a Mythical Mývatn The Legends Given the singularity and importance of Mývatn and its hinterland to life, both animal and human, it’s hardly surprising that the region and the lake have become a rich source of folklore myth and legend, handed down from generation to generation in both written and oral tradition for more than a thousand years. Júlíana Thóra Magnúsdóttir, a lecturer in the department of folkloristics at the University of Iceland, has studied the relationship between individual legends and their corresponding landscape in rural Iceland. Concerning Mývatn, “There are many legends and proverbial stories with regard to the lake itself, often revolving around aquatic life and, of course, the ever present midges,” she says. As Magnúsdóttir points out, the surreal nature of the lake and its protruding craters has given rise to some rather bizarre and, in some cases, quite dark legends. “One of the oldest has deeply religious connotations and recounts the tale of how Satan, enraged by the beauty of the world God has created, urinated towards the sun to create darkness. In this endeavor he failed, creating instead the lake of Mývatn, considered in ancient times to be an ugly creation full of midges that tortured both men and animals.” The origin and perfidy of the midge population is also reflected in ancient local beliefs. In times past, the god fearing people of Mývatn believed that creatures like For the visitor to Mývatn and the surrounding district it is this irresistible combination of landscape, lake life and legend that draws attention from all over the world, making it one of the must-see stops on any Icelandic travel itinerary. 40 atlantica midges that gave them no rest and engulfed all the senses in the summer months couldn’t possibly have been created by God. From such incredulity sprang the notion that midges originated from the beard of Satan and were henceforth known as the beard lice of the devil. Other tales inevitably refer to the success or failure of fishing expeditions, or indeed infamous drownings and famous rescues that once again underline the centrality of the lake in the lives of locals. Though many of the legends relate to the lake itself, others are derived from the region as a whole and run the entire gamut of Icelandic folklore tradition from trolls and fairies to ghosts and outlaws. Often these legends had some minor kernel of truth that became mythologized and exaggerated out of all proportion. A good example of this is the legendary female troll of Mývatn, as Magnúsdóttir explains. “This is perhaps my favorite creation as female trolls of such personality are relatively rare in Icelandic folklore tradition.” The story tells of the troll, Kráka, who lived in the marshlands. She was known as a particularly lecherous creature and was much feared by locals, as she was reputed to regularly kidnap men from the surrounding hinterland to keep her company. The kernel of the folk legend probably stems from fear of a local recluse who did not mix with locals and inevitably became the subject of conjecture. a HÚSAVÍK tel: 464 7272 www.northsailing.is Lady of the Ring by Mica AllAn Photos courtesy of Hendrikka Waage H endrikka Waage is known for being surrounded by all things bright and beautiful, be they her renowned collections of glamorous jewelry or the glitterati that wear them. Like a fine wine, her two latest projects are the culmination of a number of conditions all coinciding to create a winning formula. Building on her experience of international business relations and artistic entrepreneurship, Waage is now embarking on her first series of children’s books to support another cause she champions where children will receive, amongst other things, a talking frog complete with crown. Curious? Read on… Some years ago Waage had the notion of utilizing the cultural knowledge she’d amassed from her work and travels throughout countries as diverse as Russia, Japan and India and of capturing this in books. The end result is a recently published children’s book, Rikka and her Magic Ring, with the main aim of educating children about their own and others’ cultures. The protagonist, Rikka, is a curious nineyear-old Icelandic girl, blessed with a magical ring that on turning purple instantly 42 atlantica transports this young adventurer to different places. Very Star Trek and arguably a much coveted skill, especially given that Iceland’s recent volcanic activity can impede the more standard form of air travel. Vibrantly illustrated by Inga María Brynjarsdóttir, Rikka’s first book of adventures takes place in her homeland, Iceland, where she visits glaciers, consorts with elves and plays Iceland’s national game, handball. This is the first of six books as Rikka goes globetrotting, with India up next. The suite of books complements and supports a larger project that Waage and friends first concocted some two years ago whilst traveling throughout one of Iceland’s national parks, Thingvellir, the old site of the Icelandic parliament. Out of their desire and commitment to charitable work, they decided to form their own charity. Kids’ Parliament was subsequently born. Its aim is to reach all children, those from both privileged and disadvantaged backgrounds, children with mental and physical challenges, and children from all religions, beliefs and cultures. “Kids’ Parliament is for children aged Lady of the Ring a atlantica 43 a Lady of the Ring “Kids’ Parliament is for children aged between six and eighteen who want to develop through education, entrepreneurship, art, music and leadership programs. between six and eighteen who want to develop through education, entrepreneurship, art, music and leadership programs. Our aim is to connect intellectual development with the arts and to create a charity that promotes a spiritual flow and is all encompassing for children from all cultural and ethnic backgrounds.” Since its inception, Kids’ Parliament has gathered significant international attention. It has not only been invited by the United Nations to all its meetings but also been granted a platform to speak; it has been awarded the status of NGO of Honor by the Alliance of Civilizations in Brazil; and One World 2011 is interested in exploring partnership working with the new charity. Part of the proceeds of the Rikka and her Magic Ring series and all of Waage’s royalties will now contribute to funding this charity whose mission is to “foster a dialogue for and by children which facilitates personal decision making; to develop and implement appealing programs for kids and to ensure that children’s voices are heard and represented in all decision–making bodies of the world.” Icelandair will be selling the books on their flights, with part of the proceeds going 44 atlantica directly to a children’s travel fund. Part of the proceeds from books sold at other locations in Iceland will go to helping students pay for their Icelandic university education. In this way Waage aims to support children’s dreams of traveling and of education, two passions close to her heart. Lofty and noble ideas. And you may indeed be wondering when I will get to the part about the talking frog. The logo for the charity is a fun, smiling frog that wears a sparkly crown. The talking part comes courtesy of the latest technology from Israel that will allow safer communication than the internet can offer. Each child involved in Kids’ Parliament will receive a frog that will provide them with the latest information and messages about the charity’s activities. Gimmicky and cute, yes, but also, Waage informs me, a way of ensuring safety in an age where the internet can’t provide total security, especially for children. As both co-founder and president, Waage has been influential in securing the involvement of some internationally renowned individuals. His Holiness the Dalai Lama and Nobel Peace Prize winner Betty Williams sit on the honorary advisory board, as does Rabbi David Rosen and fashion entrepre- neur Bibi Russell. Plans are also afoot to roll out a program of events in countries as far reaching as Qatar, Belgium and Brazil, and all young people involved will be able to attend courses free of charge. Three of the first initiatives are soon to be launched. An international art competition, for children from the ages of six to eighteen, will be held between fourteen countries with the finals being held in Berlin 2011. In addition, an annual meeting will be held each year bringing together a child from each country to create a parliament, a forum for young people to discuss and direct the agenda themselves regarding what they want to achieve, learn and develop. Continuing this theme, an advisory board of young people between the ages of sixteen and eighteen will shape the running of Kids’ Parliament. “So many things happen because of a lack of education,” says Waage, “and education opens so many doors to see and experience the world.” And with the expertise, vision and passion harnessed to create such opportunities for young people, I have the feeling that Kids’ Parliament will allow children to shape not only their own development but shape the world around them too. kidsparliament.org a Our website is one of the safest places in Iceland! www.safetravel.is We want you out of here – alive! icelandreview.com Daily News from Iceland atlantica 45 Spring Fever in the City F or the tourist industry in Iceland the first of May marks the beginning of the bustling summer season. Visitors who take advantage of the improving weather conditions can also imbibe of Icelandic culture at its finest, in the form of the prestigious Icelandic Arts Festival. Running from 12 May to 5 June, the principle aim of the festival is to showcase and promote both Icelandic and international culture across a wide range of media from opera, pop music and dance to the visual arts. This year’s event has added resonance as it is the fortieth anniversary of the festival, and the organizers hope to make it a particularly memorable one. Over the last four decades the festival has been graced by many internationally renowned artists and performers from the infectious rhythms of the Gipsy Kings, or the punk rock sound of the Clash to the legendary André Previn. One medium being highlighted this year is photography, with no less than 20 exhibitions being held in galleries, museums and public spaces with artists including Cindy Sherman and David Byrne. The 2008 festival marked the end of Thórunn Sigurdardóttir’s tenure as artistic director after eight successful years which helped to cement the Icelandic festival’s reputation as one of the most respected in Northern Europe. Stepping into her experienced shoes last year was Hrefna Haraldsdóttir, a former executive director of the Festival, who presided over record ticket receipts. “The festival has always been one of all the art forms and we hope to remain true to this spirit with outstanding Icelandic talent combined with international artists,” she says. Musicians team up with visual artists in a string of concerts held in their studios and writers invite visitors to their homes for readings. There will be concerts all over town in churches, halls and ballrooms, and photographic exhibitions in every available gallery space. For more detailed information go to listahatid.is Amadou and Miriam 46 atlantica Festival Highlights As has been its wont over many years, the festival endeavors to showcase a wide range of talent to suit all tastes. The following are but a few of the prodigious acts on offer. Amadou and Miriam The festival kicks off to a rousing start with this phenomenal blind duo from Mali. Though they have been together for almost three decades, they came to international attention with the release of their hugely acclaimed, Manuchou produced album, Dimanche á Bamako in 2005. They have been wowing audiences across the globe ever since. Described by the BBC as rhythmically irresistible, they recently played for President Barack Obama and have worked with the likes of Coldplay, Damon Albarn and the Scissor Sisters. The duo brings its highly charged sound to Iceland on the opening day of the festival, a performance which marks the end of a highly successful European tour. Leif Ove Andsnes 12 May, Laugardalshöll 8:30 p.m. Collaborating Virtuosos This year’s festival welcomes esteemed Norwegian pianist Leif Ove Andsnes, described by the New York Times as “the most accomplished pianist of the new generation.” Andsnes has taken time out of his international schedule to team up with two other virtuosos from Germany, Christian and Tanya Tetzlaff, a violinist and cellist respectively. The trio will perform together in the large hall at Háskólabíó in a recital dedicated to Schumann’s 200 year anniversary. Romeo and Juliet 13 May, Háskólabíó Concert Hall 8 p.m. Romeo and Juliet In collaboration with the City Theatre of Reykjavík, comes a bold and provocative interpretation of Romeo and Juliet from the Vilnius City Theatre and its director Oskaras Korsunovas. This award winning and critically acclaimed production has filled theatres across Europe and marks quite a coup for the festival organizers. 14 - 15 May, Reykjavík City Theatre 8 p.m. Megas Megas After almost 50 years performing and recording, the Icelandic icon Megas reinvents himself once again, this time in concert with a string quartet, a children’s choir and a rock band. He takes us on a journey through several decades of his extraordinary lyrics and for the first time he will also be performing arrangements by his son Thórdur Magnússon. 24 May, Háskólabíó Concert Hall 8 p.m. The Kitchen Symphony The Kitchen Symphony is a wonderfully endearing musical and theatrical adventure for children, staged by the National Theatre of Iceland. It tells the love story of Mr Pot and Mrs Lid whose romance takes a flirtatious turn with the intervention of Mrs Moulinette. The long suffering dish towel and Mr Broom become inevitably drawn into the unpredictable tale. The Kitchen Symphony 29 May, National Theatre, 1 p.m. and 3 p.m. Ryk á Bok: Benni Hemm Hemm, Alasdair Roberts and the Reykjavík Wind Ensemble This brand new composition by Benni Hemm Hemm features both Icelandic and Scottish Gaelic interwoven to create a unique linguistic concoction. The Wind Ensemble make themselves duly heard between the words, often to cacophonic effect. Benni Hemm Hemm 3 June, The Icelandic Opera 8 p.m. Kristinn Sigmundsson: Favorite Opera Arias Basso Kristinn Sigmundsson is one of Iceland’s most renowned international opera singers and he closes the festival with a full gala concert, ably assisted by the Icelandic Symphony Orchestra and the Icelandic Opera Choir. Sigmundsson sings a selection of his favorite arias, including Verdi Rossini and Tchaikovsky. Directed by Peter Sakari. 5 June, Háskólabíó Concert Hall 5 p.m. Kristinn Sigmundsson atlantica 47 Down on the Farm 48 atlantica Museums Farm holidays in Iceland are gaining popularity as John Boyce discovered. Photos by Páll stefánsson F or many decades in Iceland, tourism was a small niche industry that directly involved relatively few of its island citizens. A combination of cheaper airfares and increasing interest in exotic destinations resulted in an explosion of visitors to Iceland in the 1990s. Though research shows that the majority of visitors limit their stay to less than a week, some visitors with more time seek a more rugged and intimate experience with Icelandic nature, rural life and its inhabitants. In many cases, these visitors find exactly what they are looking for with an Icelandic farm stay. The putting up of visitors in rural Iceland has a long history and is arguably derived from a number of traditions. For an insight into the origins of Icelandic hospitality, I picked the brain of Katrín Gudmundsdóttir, an anthropology graduate from the University of Iceland and keen student of Icelandic rural customs. “The farm holiday industry in Iceland has, I would suggest, a number of sources. The custom of extending hospitality and a welcome to travelers is probably as old as Icelandic history itself. In times past, travel from one isolated region of the island to another was slow and arduous, particularly in winter. Almost any journey of significance entailed overnight shelter. Most farmsteads were willing and happy to extend a warm fire and a cup of broth, if only in the hope of such hospitality being returned at some point in the future.” Another more recent precedent is, “the custom of sending children from the city to the countryside for the summer to learn more about nature and respect of plant and animal life. It was considered a healthier option during the endless Icelandic summer days than kicking about town,” Gudmundsdóttir says. Though these traditions stretch back to last century and beyond, it is only in the last 40 years or so that the concept of rural home stay developed into a commercial concern. According to Oddný Björg Halldórsdóttir, managing director of Icelandic Farm Holidays, the first steps on the road to a fully established industry were taken in 1969 when Icelandair began to look for farms that were willing to cater professionally for foreign travelers. “The first brochure was a very modest affair with a few photographs and information on only about five farms in the entire country,” she says. The industry gradually grew, until in 1980 participating farmers got together to form the Icelandic Farm Holidays Association to coordinate and develop the industry. Today, spread across the length and breath of the rugged Icelandic countryside are more than 140 farming homesteads that extend a professional welcome to tourists, both domestic and foreign. Most are members of the association and their fully functioning farm operations allow the visitor to observe at close hand the work and daily routine of a genuine Icelandic farm. They usually offer comfortable, accessible accommodation in an authentic rural setting and a wide range of activities which vary from location to location, depending on what the local environment has to offer and the nature of the farming activity that takes place. In addition to experiencing farm life and work first hand, visitors can choose from dozens of activities atlantica 49 a a Down on the Farm including horse riding, hiking, trekking, fishing, mountaineering, swimming, thermal bathing, rock climbing, berry picking, bird watching, nature trailing and even rafting and skiing. Many of the farms have staked out marked paths to facilitate tours of the local beauty spots and extended treks through the surrounding hinterland. For the sports enthusiast, several farms have even developed their own mini golf courses. Such a holiday is also particularly suitable for a family trip. Many of the farms offer specific rural friendly activities for children and the chance to observe the running of the farm and the husbandry of its animals. In addition to the cultural value of the experience for the visitor, another important aspect of the industry is its economic importance to their hosts. Since the end of the Second World War, Icelandic society has been transformed from an 50 atlantica overwhelmingly rural society to a largely urban one. Great swathes of the countryside have been abandoned by those seeking a more prosperous life in Reykjavík and the larger towns. The West Fjords has seen the most dramatic decline of all. In common with most countries in Europe, the percentage of the population employed in agriculture has plummeted in the wake of increasing mechanization and foreign competition from the multinational agri-business. Given such trends, farm incomes have pretty much fallen off a cliff in the last decade and landowners are among the most indebted members of Icelandic society. It has become increasingly difficult for farming families to make a viable living from their land. Many families that have farmed for generations on the same homestead are loathe to give up their rural existence. Some have had to improvise and partly reinvent themselves, Experience the power of nature Hekla Volcanic Body Scrub is a powerful energizing exfoliant that will clear away dead skin cells and impurities to let fresh, invigorated and silky smooth skin emerge to the surface. Hekla contains uplifting aromatic essential oils that push away stress and anxiety, filling you with volcanic energy! 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To see our complete range of skincare products, suited for all skin types, visit www.purityherbs.is Purity Herbs · Akureyri · Iceland www.purityherbs.is [email protected] a Down on the Farm often involving themselves in the local tourist industry to maximize their dwindling incomes. Offering accommodation and a rural holiday experience is one of the ways farmers manage to bridge the gap between growing expenditure and falling incomes. As Halldórsdóttir ruefully admits, “Offering accommodation is often the only way that a farmer and his family can remain on their land.” One such farm is the homestead of Klaustursel run by Adalsteinn Jónsson and his wife Ólivía Sigmarsdóttir, located in the Jökuldalur valley about 50 kilometers from the town of Egilsstadir, the major population centre of the East. The farm has been in Jónsson’s family for generations, but it was only in recent years that the couple began to see the writing on the wall as far as commercial farming was concerned. “Farming being what it is in Iceland these days, we realized we would have to diversify if we wanted to stay on our land,” he says. To this end the couple took up the running of the local school-house hostel and combined it with trips to their nearby farm to create the perfect rural holiday experience. “With the added income from tourism we can continue to run our farm as a real commercial concern,” he says. The farm itself husbands a wide variety of livestock, including sheep, hens, geese, ducks and foxes. This is also the heart of Icelandic reindeer country, and trips are available to see herds of these beautiful creatures that roam the extremities of the homestead. For those particularly interested in the premier wildlife attraction in the area, there is the opportunity to visit a tanning workshop nearby to see how reindeer hide is tanned into leather and to learn all about the myriad uses to which reindeer have been put over the years. The nearby hostel, with both outdoor and indoor play facilities, is particularly suitable for families. Facilities also include an adjoining swimming pool and hot pot constructed 15 years ago, with money raised by the efforts of the Jökuldalur valley inhabitants One of the many visitors who has discovered the joys of the rural East in general, and Klaustursel hospitality in particular, is Will Ogmundson, a pianist and composer from the frosty north of New England. Born and raised in New Hampshire, he discovered his Icelandic roots (one of his great grandfathers was Icelandic) and came to Iceland to trace his family heritage and study Icelandic in 1999. It was only after he had spent several months in Reykjavík that he finally discovered the joys of the Icelandic countryside. “I was quite enjoying the nightlife and other interests of Reykjavík, when I took a trip with a friend to the home52 52 a at t ll a an nt t ii c ca a stead near Egilsstadir,” he says. It was only then that he realized what he had been missing. “As well as being a healthy alternative to Reykjavík nightlife, I began to get a real sense of the roots of Icelandic survival that is the hallmark of rural Icelanders. I immersed myself in the traditions of horse riding, sheep shearing and mountain trekking in search of lost lambs. I felt closeness to my ancestral roots that I could never have achieved in the city. Since that momentous week in 1999, Ogmundson has returned almost every year (and in recent years with his young family) and usually chooses a different rural experience each time. “It’s a wonderful opportunity to show my own kids a little piece of their heritage. Each new trip opens up a new aspect of Icelandic rural culture and nature.” Out of the Icelandic Farm Holidays Association eventually grew the concept of Iceland Farm Holidays Ltd. in 1990, a fully fledged travel agency strongly backed by the Icelandic Tourist Board. As Halldórsdóttir explains, the organization runs the website, organizes bookings and participates in workshops and trade fairs. The primary aim of all this is, of course, to promote and market the concept of the rural Icelandic holiday experience. The organization and its farmer members are hoping that with increased exposure more and more people like Will Ogmundson will come and discover the wonders that the rural wilds of Iceland have to offer. a ENJOY SAVING MONEY ON QUALITY PRODUCTS ÍSLENSKA / SIA.IS / FLE 50182 04/10 AT THE TAX AND DUTY FREE STORES AT KEFLAVIK INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT The prices at the Keflavik Duty Free stores are very competitive to prices at other European airports and up to 50% lower than in Reykjavík retail stores. We offer a wide variety of Icelandic souvenirs, brand products and much more at tempting prices. Start your stay in Iceland at the Keflavik Duty Free stores or arrive in good time before your departure from Iceland and enjoy with us the last hours of your visit. a at t ll a an nt t ii c ca a 53 53 54 atlantica ■ Cintamani / www.cintamani.is Warm in a Cold Climate Photos by Páll stefánsson Model Telma Fjalarsdóttir Design F or centuries, the wool from the Icelandic sheep has kept us warm. And still does. The traditional lopapeysa is still very popular, but with new designs and production it is gaining an even bigger market, aimed at younger and more trendy buyers. The Icelandic wool is not only warm, it is water resistant which makes it unique. So a woolen garment is the perfect shelter to guard oneself against the elements. Fleece can also be put to good use in Iceland’s unpredicteble weather. Lighter and easier to design, fleece has no limits when it comes to shape and color. If you want to see real rural Iceland, you should visit us in the fall when farmers round up their sheep from the mountains. The biggest pens are in north Iceland, where thousands are driven in from the highland heaths. It’s a festival for the locals who dress up in wool. PS a ■ Vikingur / The Viking Store Hafnarstræti 3 / Laugavegur 1 101 Reykjavik ATLANTICA 57 ■ Álafoss / www.alafoss.is 58 atlantica Design a ■ Drífa / Icewear www.icewear.is atlantica 59 a Design ■ Vík Prjónsdóttir / Víkurprjón / www.vikprjonsdottir.com 60 atlantica UNFORGETTABLE EXCURSIONS Reykjavik Excursions offers a wide range of unique and adventurous journeys in Iceland. The Wonders of Snaefellsnes with Cruise T he Snaefellsnes peninsula in Iceland’s West is almost like a miniature of the whole country. There are white and black beaches, bird cliffs, spectacular mountains and volcanic craters, incredibly rich trout lakes and salmon rivers, lush valleys and a world renowned glacier. For nature lovers, The Wonders of Snaefellsnes with Cruise out on Breidafjördur bay is an absolute must. The tour will take you around the peninsula so you will see the magnificent and mystical Snaefellsjökull glacier from all sides. The stunning landscapes of the peninsula have captured the imagination of people all over the world ever since Jules Verne wrote the science fiction novel ”Journey to the Center of the Earth”. The amazing Snaefellsjökull glacier is where the journey begins and the Stromboli volcano in Italy is where it ends. When you travel around the peninsula you will see extensive mossy lava fields and formations, volcanic craters, lakes and salmon rivers, bird cliffs teeming with life and unique harbors in charming fishing villages. The tour takes you to Borgarnes village and then to the old town of Stykkishólmur where a cruise boat takes you out to the amazing Breidafjördur bay which is a world on its own with incredible bird and marine life, on and around the countless small islands in the fjord, some of which have strange rock formations. A highlight of the trip is when a net is hauled in and everyone can taste the shellfish and sea-urchin roe. It doesn’t get any fresher. Those who don’t feel like going out to sea have the option of taking a guided walk through the historic town of Stykkishólmur, ending with a two-course lunch. From Stykkishólmur we travel along the coast with a stop at the black pebble beach of Djúpalónssandur and at Arnarstapi village which has one of Iceland’s most picturesque harbors and bird cliffs which can be viewed up close. Sometimes the tour also stops at Ytri-Tunga to take a look at the seals and then a final stop is made to view Eldborg volcanic crater before returning to Reykjavík. www.re.is Operation: 4 June – 29 August on Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sundays leaving at 8 a.m. Duration: 11 – 12 hours. Wool Sweater Reggae Alda Kravec speaks with Hjálmar and traces the story of Iceland’s first and only reggae band. Photo by Páll stefánsson B efore actually hearing anything by Hjálmar, I recall first reading about them in the program for Airwaves back in the fall of 2005. I found the idea of Icelandic reggae amusing and, of course, I wanted to check them out. Perhaps for the same reasons that once prompted me to sample Wasabi flavored gelato in an ice cream shop that boasted some 100 plus flavors. I sampled the gelato on one of those mini spoons, but in the end opted for two scoops of something reliably good, like dark chocolate and lemon sorbet. Wasabi gelato was a miss. When it comes to Hjálmar’s special blend, however, it is safe and most satisfying to invest in a full scoop, if not two or three. Fans are currently lapping up their fourth, as Hjálmar’s latest album, accurately entitled IV, attained gold record status in Iceland shortly after its release and is now closing in on platinum status. The band’s three previous albums were equally successful. Time and again, Hjálmar has proven that their brand of reggae is not just a novelty or a passing trend. They are a solid band creating an original but addictive sound and possessing a refreshingly down to earth style. More reminiscent of the California roll, Hjálmar is a hit fusion. But how did this far-out fusion of Jamaican rhythms and Icelandic rhymes come to be? Three of Hjálmar’s current five-man ensemble took some time out from a meeting at their recording studio in Hafnarfjördur to talk about the roots of their reggae. Present were: Sigurdur Gudmundsson, keyboardist and vocalist; Gudmundur Kristinn Jónsson, guitarist and sound engineer; and Valdimar Kolbeinn Sigurjónsson, bassist. Siggi, Kiddi and Valdi. Absent were vocalist Thorsteinn Einarsson and drummer Helgi Svavar Helgason. And if this cluster of names seems hard to swallow, the story is further complicated by the fact that the band’s composition has remained fluid. Valdi and Helgi are relatively new additions, replacing the Swedish section, which was made up of Petter Winnberg, Nils Olof Törnqvist and Mikael Svensson. But mainstays Siggi and Kiddi are quick to dispel any notions of a split. “We had been playing together for three years straight and were incredibly tired, so we took a break for a few months about three years ago,” Kiddi explains. “Then we discovered we owed money in taxes, so we reunited for a fundraising concert. Out of this reunion came our third album, Ferdasót [Traveling Dust]. So, we have the taxman to thank for our reunion.” He adds, “The Swedes were tired of traveling back and forth between Iceland and Sweden, so Helgi and Valdi took over after Ferdasót’s release.” Sweden Still, I wonder about the Swedish connection. Sweden has developed a reggae tradition of its own. Beginning in the ‘70s and ‘80s when blues musician Peps Persson and the punk band Dag Vag turned to reggae, this tradition continues strong, with more recent reggae ensembles such as Rootvälta, Svenska Akademien and Kung Kodum originating in Sweden, in addition to Scandinavia’s largest reggae festival, the Uppsala Reggae Festival. Indeed, one of Hjálmar’s most popular tracks to date, Ég vil fá mér kaerustu [I want to get me a girlfriend], takes its tune from an old Swedish folksong, Ack Värmeland, du sköna. And more recently, Hjálmar collaborated with Swedish hiphop and reggae artist Timbuktu to produce the track Dom himner aldrig ikapp. However, Hjálmar does not look to Sweden as a Music a musical model and they tend to downplay the alleged influence. Aside from Peps Persson, with whom Hjálmar readily identifies, they do not seem to be especially familiar with the Swedish reggae scene, and are far from trying to emulate it. In fact, they would rather distance themselves from some of the contemporary reggae acts emerging in the rest of Europe. Siggi explains, “I don’t necessarily want to be associated with the reggae scene that is to be found in Scandinavia or France or Italy where they pretend to be from Jamaica and begin growing dreads in order to look the part. That’s just ridiculous.” Conversely, Siggi suggests a more local source of influence: “We are not a purebred reggae band, we also have roots in our own folksong traditions, in old Icelandic music.” Keflavík The idea of Hjálmar was born in the recording studio, Geimsteinn, located in the town of Keflavík. Siggi and Kiddi were working on an album for the Icelandic pop legend, Rúnar Júlíusson, when the idea of putting together an Icelandic reggae album dawned on them. “After helping Júlíusson with a couple of reggae tracks that he wanted on his album, it occurred to us to record an entire reggae album,” says Siggi. Thus Hjálmar came into being and their first album, Hljódlega af stad [Taking off Quietly], was released in 2004. As the town that first transmitted the Beatles to the rest of the country, Keflavík has long been viewed as the birthplace of rock and pop music in Iceland. It is of course tempting to draw the connection further, and link the town with the introduction of reggae to Iceland. “People want to hold on to the nostalgic image of Keflavík as a music town, so they are quick to associate us with the town. But in reality only one of us is actually from Keflavík,” says Valdi, referring to Keflavík native Kiddi. Nor is there much of a reggae scene in Keflavík or Iceland as a whole. Indeed, Hjálmar claims Hljódlega af stad as Iceland’s first home-grown reggae album. And although they may have inspired a few otherwise inclined musicians to record a reggae song of their own, Hjálmar has hardly started a revolution on the Icelandic music front. The band members themselves are wary of being pigeon-holed as a reggae band, and underline their varying musical backgrounds and interests. For example, Siggi and Valdi were mainly schooled in blues and jazz respectively. Meanwhile, Kiddi and Siggi continue to be involved in the spoof band Baggalútur. “It may be that Hjálmar is a reggae band, but its members are not exclusively reggae musicians,” explains Valdi. Kiddi smiles and adds, “Hjálmar has never called itself a ‘reggae band’ and there is no guarantee that our next album will be a reggae album.” Hjálmar further distinguishes itself by singing almost exclusively in Icelandic, even while they often write their first drafts in English. Since the release of their second album, which featured the traditional Icelandic wool sweater on the cover, the local press has often described their music as lopapeysu-reggae [wool sweater reggae]. They agree that the label suits them to a certain extent. When asked why they do not sing in English in order to access a wider audience, the answer is clear: “We are not necessarily trying to make it abroad,” asserts Siggi. Despite the fact that their target audience remains local, Hjálmar enjoys a good reception abroad, as Kiddi confirms: “People think that just because we sing in Icelandic, we do not appeal to a foreign audience, but it’s a misconception. We sell loads of our music abroad.” Jamaica Besides sharing the obvious geographical trait of being island nations, it may seem far-fetched to liken Iceland with Jamaica. Reggae grew out of a politics of resistance, anti-colonialism, black pride, the Rastafarian movement, anti-materialism—that is very remote from Iceland. However, Hjálmar neither shies away from these differences nor exaggerates the similarities. Siggi says, “When we look back now, and try to understand what caused us to begin playing reggae, we can speculate about possible explanations. I mean, sure, maybe we got the idea from Jamaica…we are both islands, Iceland was once a subjugated colony too, and we have both experienced a more recent surge in aluminum production. But then again, it would be absurd to carry the con- nection too far. In the end, it’s more just about a good feeling for the music.” The band’s demeanor testifies to their unpretentious outlook as they appear unconcerned with putting on any false airs or trappings. Siggi asserts, “We don’t sing about Jah or Ganja.” But then he recollects, “with the exception of one song,” and the others laugh. He goes on to recount how his adaptation of Pluto Shervington’s ‘Ram Goat Liver’, which appeared on Hjálmar’s first album as ‘Kindin Einar’ [Einar the Sheep], had once contained a reference to marijuana. “In order to avoid any misunderstanding or discontent, I changed ganja to banana, making it harmless,” he says. “And healthy,” kids Kiddi. In May 2009, Hjálmar traveled to Jamaica where they recorded in the famous Tuff Gong and Harry J. studios. They were backed up by local brass and chorus line-ups, the latter of which learnt some Icelandic to this end. They also received feedback from some of the industry’s old hands, who were generally positive though somewhat baffled. Valdi recaps the general reaction: “They said it wasn’t exactly normal reggae, and didn’t really know what to call it, but they dug it and said it was good.” Having achieved what they set out to do, Hjálmar considers the trip a success: “Because our time in Jamaica was limited, the basic idea was to record as much as we could in Iceland, and try to add the right spice in Jamaica. We went in with a raw chicken, and came out with jerk chicken.” The upshot of the trip was not only the album IV, but a short documentary by Bjarni Grímsson and Frosti Runólfsson, Haerra ég og þú [Higher Me and You], which premiered in the fall at the Reykjavík International Film Festival. I ask them if their movie experience has not aroused their appetite for the big screen, and suggest a drama, perhaps in the same vein as The Harder They Come with Jimmy Cliff. They laugh. “Maybe in like 10 years, when things here really get hard,” suggests Valdi. a A few of Hjálmar’s tracks can be heard for free on myspace.com. Downloads can be purchased through itunes, emusic and amazon. Only available at the Duty Free Store "visit our store and have a lava bite" Surtsey 1964 WE‘LL TAKE YOU THERE! DAY TOURS TO ALL THE MOST ExCITING pLACES IN ICELAND REYKJAvIK ExCURSIONS DAY TOURS 2010 - SUMMARY RE-04 - THE GOLDEN CIRCLE All year daily at 09.00. MON pRICE TUE WED THU FRI 9800 ISK SAT SUN RE-08 - SAGA CIRCLE All year on Saturdays at 09.00. MON TUE pRICE WED THU FRI 14500 ISK SAT SUN DURATION : 9 HOURS. Included: Bus fare, guidance, admission to museums and pick up at hotels and guesthouses 30 minutes before departure. RE-15 - SOUTH SHORE ADvENTURE 01.06.-31.08. DURATION : 8 HOURS. Included : Bus fare, guidance, admission to Geysir multimedia show and pick up at hotels and guesthouses 30 minutes before departure. RE-05 - REYKJAvíK GRAND ExCURSION All year daily at 13.00. MON pRICE TUE WED THU FRI All year daily at 09.00. MON pRICE TUE WED THU FRI 15400 ISK SAT SUN 4900 ISK SAT SUN 01.06.-31.08. DURATION : 10 HOURS. Included: Bus fare, guidance, admission to Skógar folk museum and pick up at hotels and guesthouses 30 minutes before departure. 01.06.-31.08. DURATION : 2,5-3 HOURS. Included: Bus fare, guidance and pick up at hotels and guesthouses 30 minutes before departure. RE-16/RE-17 - THE WONDERS OF SNÆFELLSNES WITH CRUISE 5 June – 29 August on Wednesdays, Saturdays & Sundays at 08.00. MON RE-06 – THE WONDERS OF REYKJANES & BLUE LAGOON 1 March – 31 August daily at 09.00. MON TUE pRICE WED THU FRI TUE WED THU FRI pRICE 24000 ISK SAT SUN 13500 ISK SAT SUN DURATION : 8 HOURS. Included: Bus fare, guidance, admission to museums and pick up at hotels and guesthouses 30 minutes before departure. Please note that the admission to the Blue Lagoon is not included. 05.06.-29.08. DURATION : 11,5-12 HOURS. Included: Bus fare, guidance, boat tour and pick up at hotels and guesthouses 30 minutes before departure. For clients who do not want to go on the boat tour we provide a voucher for a 2 course lunch, coffee incl. RE-24 - GULLFOSS GEYSIR DIRECT All year daily at 12.30. MON pRICE TUE WED THU FRI SAT 8600 ISK 1 June – 31 August daily at 17.00. pRICE WED MON TUE WED THU FRI pRICE 28900 ISK SAT SUN DURATION : 10 HOURS. Included : Bus fare, guidance, 1 hour snowmobile tour (2 persons per vehicle) and pick up at hotels and guesthouses 30 minutes before departure. RE-81 – TAKE A WALK ON THE ICE SIDE RE-34 - GULLFOSS GEYSIR DIRECT TUE All year daily at 09.00. SUN 01.06.-31.08. DURATION : 5,5 HOURS. Included : Bus fare, guidance, admission to Geysir multimedia show and pick up at hotels and guesthouses 30 minutes before departure. MON RE-80 – GLACIER SNOWMOBILE ADvENTURE THU FRI SAT 8400 ISK All year daily at 09.00. MON SUN TUE WED THU FRI pRICE 19900 ISK SAT SUN DURATION : 10 HOURS. Included: Bus fare, guidance, 2,5-3 hours glacier walk, gear and safety equipment and pick up at hotels and guesthouses 30 minutes before departure. 01.06.-31.08. DURATION : 5,5 HOURS. Included : Bus fare, guidance and pick up at hotels and guesthouses 30 minutes before departure. RE-44 - GULLFOSS - GEYSIR & LANGJöKULL SNOWMOBILING 1 January - 31 May & 1 September - 31 December on Thursdays, Fridays, Saturdays & Sundays at 09.00. 1 June - 31 August daily at 09.00. MON TUE WED THU FRI pRICE SAT SUN RE-62 - NORTHERN LIGHTS TOUR WED MON TUE WED THU FRI pRICE 18000 ISK SAT SUN 01.07.-31.08. DURATION : 11 - 12 HOURS. Included: Bus fare, guidance, admission to Landmannalaugar and pick up at hotels and guesthouses 30 minutes before departure. Day tours Travel Agency ing most excit to all the icelanD places in 1 January - 14 March & 16 October - 31 December at 21.00. 15 - March - 15 April & 15 September - 15 October at 22.00. TUE 1 July – 31 August on Tuesdays, Thursdays & Sundays at 08.00. 24500 ISK 01.06.-31.08. DURATION : 10 HOURS. Included : Bus fare, guidance, 1 hour snowmobile tour (2 persons per vehicle) and pick up at hotels and guesthouses 30 minutes before departure. MON RE-92 - LANDMANNALAUGAR & SAGA vALLEY THU pRICE FRI SAT Authorised by Icelandic Tourist Board 4900 ISK SUN 01.01. - 15.04. & 15.09. - 31.12. DURATION : 2,5 - 3 HOURS. Included : Bus fare, guidance and pick up at hotels and guesthouses 30 minutes before departure. O WE’LL TAKE YOU THERE! We’ll take you there! MORE DETAILS ON TOURS IN OUR BROCHURES BSÍ Bus Terminal / 101 Reykjavík / +354 580 5400 / [email protected] / www.re.is a iceland Special promotion Luxury in the Country Hotel Rangá, situated just 100 kilometers from Reykjavík, is Iceland’s only 4-star luxury lodge. But don’t take our word for it: the hotel was recently runner-up as “best wedding destination” in a competition run on Europe’s largest morning TV program and it’s Iceland’s only member of the prestigious “Special Hotels of the World” chain. Those looking for an indulgent retreat enjoy Hotel Rangá because of its proximity to nature, its gourmet restaurant and the popular outdoor hot tubs. This July, the hotel will open a new restaurant, kitchen, lounge, bar, massage area and meeting facilities. It will also open a new wing, bringing the total room count to 52. Six upstairs suites will represent all the continents in the “World Pavilion”. Each suite will be furnished with the finest fittings available from South America, Australia, Africa, Asia and North America, like giant cedar from Canada, cherry wood from Japan and ebony from Africa. This variety is what makes the hotel popular with locals and visitors to Iceland alike. hotelranga.is Equestrian and Outdoors Lífland operates two stores, one in Iceland’s capital, Reykjavík, and one in Akureyri, the biggest town in North Iceland. Their Reykjavík store is the biggest equestrian store in Iceland, offering a wide variety of tack, both Icelandic made and imported. Lífland offers clothing from leading equestrian clothing manufacturers in Europe such as Mountain Horse in Sweden, Sonnenreiter and Georg Schumacher in Germany and Tattini in Italy. “We are very happy to see a growing number of hikers and other fans of outdoor life come into our stores to buy top quality clothing, sometimes for a fraction of the price they would buy similar clothing in sports shops and outdoors centers,” says Lífland’s owner Jón Gudmundsson. If you are a horse enthusiast or simply the outdoors type, do not miss the chance of visiting Lífland on your trip to Iceland. When you get home you can also visit their web shop at lifland.is. Lífland’s staff will do their uttermost to help you find everything you need for your horse. Bringing the Past to Life In 2001, a Viking-Age longhouse from around 930 AD was found during an archaeological excavation in the center of Reykjavík. The ruins of the longhouse, which was inhabited until about 1000 AD, and a part of a man-made structure—a turf wall, probably part of a field enclosure—have been preserved and are now on display at the site where they were discovered. The wall is the oldest remains of human habitation that has been found in Iceland and suggests that Reykjavík’s first settler, Ingólfur Arnason, may have arrived in the capital earlier than 874 AD, which was previously established as the year of settlement. Objects from the Viking Age found in central Reykjavík and the island of Videy, such as glass beads and a walrus tusk, are also on display. The title of the exhibition, Reykjavik 871± 2, comes from the dating of the settlement layer of volcanic ash, formed in an eruption in 871 AD, with a two-year margin of error. The Settlement Exhibition focuses on explaining how archeologists interpreted the various pieces of evidence found in the ruins, and through various multimedia sources visitors can learn about the lives of the people who lived there and see a model of the original longhouse. Adalstraeti 16. reykjavikmuseum.is 68 atlantica THE PEARL The Independent Online Edition Five Best: Tables at the top! Sophie Lam, reporter for The Independent, has writtena piece on “rooftop restaurants that take dining to new heights”. We were very pleased to see The Pearl included in Sophies Top Five along with: The LObsTer hOuse humarhúsið The Lobster house takes pride in giving you the best, with top-class cuisine and highly praised service. · The Portrait Restaurant (London) · Sirrocco (Bangkok) · Tower Top (Zanzibar) · Maison Blanche (Paris) You can read the article on www.independent.co.uk. HumarHusið amtmannsstíg 1 / 101 reykjavík / Tel: +354 561 3303 [email protected] The Pearl, Restaurant Tel: (+354) 562 0200 Fax: (+354) 562 0207 E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.perlan.is Hringbrot Our menu consists of a variety of meat and fish dishes, and lobster is our speciality. a iceland Special promotion Dressing Today’s Woman Sleek, striking and simple, ELM’s new range for summer 2010 is set to turn heads. Started back in 1999 by three female friends with a background in art and design, ELM is proud of its brand statement designed by women for women and holds a firm belief that in order to design for women you must understand women. With designs inspired by Icelandic nature, ELM’s range is created using a wide selection of authentic fabrics from around the world; Peruvian cotton, Alpaca wool, Spanish linen and Japanese taffeta. ELM’s signature style is strong and elegant and its collections are sought after by today’s modern thinking woman who likes to dress in a sophisticated manner but with that extra edge. ELM’s flagship store is in Reykjavík’s Laugavegur and its range can be found in 250 locations worldwide, including Browns and Liberty in London and at New York’s Takashimaya. Álafoss – Since 1896 One of the major attractions in Mosfellsbær, located some 20 minutes from Reykjavík by car, is the Álafoss factory outlet, where Iceland’s woolens industry was launched. The store is housed in an old factory, which for decades was the premises of the leading manufacturer and exporter of Icelandic woolens. The name Álafoss is derived from the warm waterfall behind the factory, which drove its mills. In homage to this heritage, the store exhibits a selection of old knitting machinery and photographs from the early days, which form the basis of a museum. There you can find a huge selection of woolen sweaters, ranging from traditional styles to high fashion, along with woolen accessories, arts, crafts and souvenirs at reasonable prices. Seeing Iceland in Style Want to see the very best of Iceland in total comfort with one of its oldest and most respected companies? Let Hreyfill Special Taxi Tours be your host. This company has been catering to visitors’ traveling needs since 1943, which means in addition to Hreyfill’s selection of popular tours, you can meet your own wishes and customize your own tour to fit in with your own schedule. Hreyfill can also arrange excursions at late notice and have specially equipped cars for transporting passengers in wheelchairs. What’s more, because Hreyfill caters for small groups between 1 and 8, there’s extra flexibility built into your tour and you can always be sure of friendly and personal service. So, whether you want to explore the breathtaking glaciers and spectacular scenery, visit the waterfalls and the Blue Lagoon, or explore the hidden places that Icelanders love, Hreyfill Special Taxi Tours can help make your stay in Iceland memorable. . 70 atlantica Taste the freshness of a farmer’s market Housed in one of the city’s oldest buildings, Fish Market uses ingredients sourced directly from the nation’s best farms, lakes, and sea to create unforgettable Icelandic dishes with a modern twist. “They put on such a beautiful meal for us. We had the most amazing freshest fish I've ever had in my life. It was all so perfectly cooked too... Beautiful!” Jamie Oliver’s Diary AÐALSTRÆTI 12 | +354 578 8877 LUNCH WEEKDAYS 11:30 - 14:00 EVENINGS 18:00 - 23:30 FISHMARKET.IS Authentic INDIAN cUISINE What’s On In Reykjavík meets the best of Iceland’s natural ingredients Find out why top food experts rate AusturIndíafjelagið as one of Iceland’s five best restaurants. It is probably because of the skillful blending of Indian herbs and spices with the best of local lamb, fish and vegetables. This has given AusturIndíafjelagið its long standing success. Reservations: 552 1630 For a complete guide to Reykjavík’s restaurants, pick up a free copy of What’s On In Reykjavík. Hverfisgata 56 101 Reykjavík [email protected] www.austurindia.is INDIAN R ESTAUR ANT www.laprimavera.is a iceland Special promotion Farmers Market Traditional—the new modern The young Icelandic fashion design company Farmers Market has raised a few eyebrows lately in the international design world for its high-quality knitwear and concept. Established in 2005 by an Icelandic couple—a designer and a musician— Farmers Market draws its design inspiration from the Icelandic heritage where, for centuries, man and animals have cohabited in harmony challenged by harsh nature. Its style has been described as revitalized Icelandic traditional design, combining Nordic design elements with chic modernity. To buy Farmers Market clothes and accessories you can either visit their own funky little shop in the old harbor area (about a 20 minute walk from the Reykjavík city center) or one of their resellers listed on their website farmersmarket.is. Blending Culture and Warmth Searching for a special gift from Iceland that’s guaranteed to put a smile on someone’s face? Look no further than Varma of Iceland. Produced by Glófi, they are a global, leading manufacturer and distributer of Icelandic woolen goods. Glófi ’s range incorporates both traditional Icelandic design and the latest styles. They offer a wide selection of accessories, ranging from hats and scarves to shawls and gloves, and boast a stylish collection of sweaters and cardigans made from the very best Icelandic wool. Their latest knitwear line ‘Blik’ is in collaboration with the designer Laufey Jónsdóttir. Inspiration for this new collection came from the Icelandic folktale Thóruhólmi which tells of a farmer who went fishing. As his rowing boat approached the island of Súgandisey he spied someone in the water and rather than reeling in a fish he reeled in a young woman. Blending Icelandic history and culture with the finest of craftsmanship, Glófi offers you a selection of high quality woolen products. glofi.is Celebrating Norway at Fjalakötturinn Always wanting to introduce their guests to new culinary experiences, Fjalakötturinn restaurant is proud to announce the theme of Norwegian cuisine from May 14 to 17, culminating in a celebration of Norway’s national day on the 17th of May. During this time a range of events will be on offer. Joining Fjalakötturinn will be top Norwegian chef, Lars Lervik. As the son of one of the largest strawberry farmers in Norway, he is no stranger to this delicious fruit and is adept and creative at producing an exotic range of strawberry dishes. In addition, Lervik is a master with ice-cream. Those with a sweet tooth should look no further. Throughout this period Fjalakötturinn will be offering both traditional and modern Norwegian fare. Of course, not only will the focus be on a superb dining experience but you can look forward to great entertainment, this time with an authentic Norwegian flavor. Fjalakötturinn looks forward to entertaining you at these special events. 72 atlantica the s se sea ea a and a delicios cioss lob llobs lobst lobster b The Seashore Restaurant in the village of Stokkseyri is an enchanted place of delight Spör - Ragnheiður Ágústsdóttir at Fjörubordid in Stokkseyri <Only 45 minutes drive from Reykjavík Reykjavík Stokkseyri tel. +354-4831550 · www.fjorubordid.is ANTON&BERGUR Eyrabakki traditional icelandic lunch buffet every day www.bluelagoon.com ICELANDREVIEW.COM PHOTOS SUBSCRIPTIONS CDs SHOP ONLINE icelandreview.com ICELANDREVIEW.COM News from Iceland Daily Life Subscriptions Travel Info Books CDs Photographs What’s On Ask Alex HEIMUR/EPI PHOTO PÁLL STEFÁNSSON BOOKS a Iceland Special promotion Eat, Meat & Fish Reykjavík’s chefs know how to feed their people. Here is a guide to the vie gourmande in the capital and beyond 101 Hótel Vogue, GQ, Elle and Condé Nast all agree—when you come to Reykjavík there is only one destination for a truly hip night out: the restaurant and lounge at 101 Hótel. Deriving its name from the most stylish postal code in the North Atlantic, 101’s casual dining room is a chic but relaxed getaway with clean, elegant lines, heated oak floors and a sizeable communal fireplace—the ideal spot for a pickme-up before the opera next door, one of the more adventurous three-course meals in the capital or even fabulous drinks to kick-start a big night on the town. Much like Indian/Icelandic chef Gunnvant Ármannsson, the kitchen at 101 represents the best of Iceland infused with intriguing flavors from abroad. This summer Ármannsson puts his spicy roots into the menu with warm flavors like Vindaloo chicken, homemade mango chutney and even coconut and ginger crème brûlée. 101 also maintains strong ties to the harbor and local farmers, meaning the kitchen offers the freshest catch of the day, along with superior Icelandic lamb, arctic char and langoustine lobster. Unique food, swish design, laid-back atmo… this place is a dish. Kitchen open until 11—kicking bar after hours. 580 0101. 101hotel.is Austur India Fjelagid For a rich sensory experience head to Harrison Ford’s favorite, Austur India Fjelagid. It is off the beaten track and one of its finest features is its lack of pretense and down-to-earth atmosphere. We recommend starting with the Prawn Pollichithu, tiger prawns sautéed in chili, cumin, coriander, ginger and garlic or Kallimirchi Lobster with freshly ground black pepper and coriander. For the main course, choose one of their famous tandoori dishes, such as the Hariyali Salmon, Gosht Charminar or Khalmi Kebab or indulge in their sauce dishes like Kozzi Mappas or Lalmas. The food is a harmonious blend of the freshest local ingredients with freshly grounded spices from India. To accompany your meal try their Meeta Naan, bread stuffed with sweetened coconut and raisins and the tomato and spinach rice. There are plenty of choices for vegetarians as well. A local favorite for16 years. 552 1630. austurindia.is Café Catalina Staying in Kópavogur, looking for something off the usual tourist radar, feel like watching some football or kicking off on the (ballroom) dance floor? Next door to Reykjavík, local hangout Café Catalina doubles as a restaurant, café, pub and dance hall. For an easygoing and relaxed bite, this is your place. The menu features Icelandic dishes along with 74 atlantica burgers and sandwiches from the grill, perfect with an Egill’s Gull draft. According to owner Sigrídur Samsonardóttir, the Icelandic meat soup and fiskibollur fish balls are favorites among the many regulars. The dish of the day (1,200 ISK / EUR 7 / USD 9.50 / GBP 6 including soup, bread and coffee) is served between 11:30 a.m. and 1:30 p.m. Café Catalina stays open until 1 a.m. during the week and 3 a.m. on Fridays and Saturdays, with live bands playing music to dance the night away to. 554 2166. catalina.is Dill Opened in 2009, Dill restaurant of the Nordic House may have just celebrated its first birthday, but it already sits atop the mountain as one of the most interesting and exciting restaurants in town. Led by chef-sommelier duo Gunnar Gislason-Ólafur Ólafsson, it is the modern, local flavors of New Nordic Food that Dill excels in. Everything from the cutlery to the sommelier’s suit is of Nordic origin; you won’t even find olive oil in this kitchen. In the daytime Dill serves relaxed brasserie style lunch and coffee, in the evening there is a 7 course set fine-dining menu, including champagne and coffee. Fried plaice with the namesake Dill, artichokes with seaweed, smoked haddock and blue mussels, and to finish an almond cake with cinnamon cream…Is your mouth watering yet? And what better setting than the Nordic House, designed by renowned Finnish architect Alvar Aalto and located in the Vatnsmyri plains, the view over downtown Reykjavik is simply breathtaking. 552 1522. dillrestaurant.is Fish Market Take the sophistication of New York and pair it with the elegance of Paris and the trendiness of Tokyo, and you have the formula for Fish Market’s unbeatable atmosphere. Match that with its equally spectacular haute cuisine with an Asian flair and you have the recipe for a restaurant that’s here to stay. The crown jewel of its kitchen is the nine-course tasting menu whose highlights include miso-marinated black cod served with tiger prawns and apricots, king crab with chili and lemongrass, and arguably the most tender quail on the planet complemented by a delicate barbeque sauce. The restaurant has also earned a well-deserved reputation for its sushi and sashimi, as fresh as it is elegant. Located in the heart of downtown, no detail is spared. Tea lights illuminate the soft, rich furnishings, and highlights of bamboo and Asian flora create a trendy atmosphere to which the city’s glitterati come flocking. Save room for the sorbet: green tea, lychee and blood orange. The perfect scoops are almost too beautiful to eat. 578 8877. fishmarket.is Fiskbúdin Hafberg The largest fish shop in Iceland, with its 12 meter long counter displaying a full range of local fish—in addition to your staple cod and halibut, there is char, plaice and other rarer finds—is a sight in itself. According to owner Geir Vilhjálmsson, the most common reaction is simply “wow”. For the self-caterer, everything from dried fish to the dark rye bread traditionally served with the fish stew plokkfiskur is available. After 15 years in the fish business, the family run Hafberg has now opened a restaurant too. The menu is short and simple, with the most popular order being a daily deal with their famous fish and lobster soup, dish of the day and coffee for 1,290 ISK (EUR 7.50 / USD 10 / GBP 6.50). A perfect lunch spot after a stroll in the botanical gardens or the Reykjavík zoo, Hafberg also offers take out—if you plan to picnic in the Laugardalur park, fish and chips might just be the perfect outdoors lunch. And with the fishmongers one wall away from the kitchen, the fish is bound to be fresh. 588 8686 Fjalakötturinn With a delicious selection of appetizers (crunchy shredded crab, foamy scallop and fennel broth, and slithers of smoked duck breast with sweet onion paste and cinnamon toast) to get you started, the mellow jazz-infused atmosphere of Fjalakötturinn’s dining room is a warm setting to have your taste buds tickled in style. While Fjalakötturinn is by no means a cheap meal, it is fantastic value given the care and attention poured into each dish by the restaurant’s chefs Haukur Gröndal and Gunnar Thór Sigthórsson. And the new menu is full of delightful surprises, from the perfectly textured lobster with lime and cucumber broth, to the astonishing blood-pudding with hazelnut puree, to variations on the classic lamb steak and salmon fillet, to the excellent venison with carrot crème-brûlée, to the mouth-watering selection of chocolate deserts (the restaurant’s trademark Chocolate in 6 Different Ways). The palate is constantly satisfied and surprised, and with a carefully selected wine list (winner of a Wine Spectator Award) each dish finds a harmonious accompaniment. This is imaginative, technically flawless Nordic cuisine at its best. 514 6060. fjalakotturinn.is (Continues on pg. 76) » d. Gourmet Fish shop and restaurant z M E N U å Soup of the day ∑ Fish ∑ Coffee Only Ikr. 1290 Gnoðavogur 44. tel.: +354 588 8686 ExquisiTE icELAndic food Meat and fish, hamburgers and other fast food An elegant hall for social functions on lease. A small casino for entertainment. Live music (dancing) every weekend from11pm - 3am. Live soccer matches on big screen TV Opening hours: Monday-Thursday 11.00 - 01.00, Fridays: 11.00 - 03.00, Saturdays: 12.00 - 03.00, Sundays: 13.00 - 01.00 The kitchen is open daily till 21.00 Hamraborg 11, 200 Kópavogur Tel: 554 2166 www.catalina.is a iceland Special promotion Eat, Meat & Fish » (Continued from pg. 74) Fjörubordid Lobster. That’s what the dining experience at Fjörubordid (The Seashore) is all about, where Icelandic lobster, or langoustine, is served delicately grilled and drizzled with melted herb butter and a spritz of lemon. As a starter, its flavor infuses the delicate creaminess of the lobster soup, the self-proclaimed ‘Best in the Republic of Iceland.’ Although you can also find a tender lamb filet or vegetable-filled puff pastry on the main course menu, lobster is what makes this seaside cozy eatery in the village of Stokkseyri, 60 kilometers from Reykjavík, so popular with locals and visitors alike. 483 1550. fjorubordid.is Hótel Rangá You could start with the seafood soup, laden with chunks of fresh salmon, monkfish and prawns. Maybe you’ll sip some of the hotel’s own-label beer, Hrammur. Then you could try Hótel Rangá’s take on the surf and turf, featuring scallops drizzled in lobster oil and Icelandic mountain lamb. But whatever you do, leave room for the chocolate and skyr cake, a signature concoction of rich chocolate and velvety skyr-based cheesecake for which locals are happy to drive the 100 kilometers from Reykjavík to taste. After your gourmet meal, do like the King of Sweden on his visit and enjoy a drink in one of the hotel’s outdoor hotpots. Then sit back, relax and start planning your next trip to this luxurious enclave in south Iceland. 487 5700. hotelranga.is Humarhúsid From its perch in a historical timber house on the hill overlooking bustling Laekjargata, the haute cuisine kitchen of Humarhúsid (The Lobster House) brings you its namesake in every delectable form: bisque, pan fried and grilled. The menu offers up a host of other local ingredients prepared to highlight delicate, complex flavors, including arctic char, smoked eel, lamb and reindeer. Enjoy the candlelit dining room decorated with antique furniture and accent pieces that speak to the house’s historical provenance. A romantic evening begins with a glass of Veuve Clicquot, creamy lobster soup, followed by beef confit and the pièce de résistance: the house’s grilled lobster tails on the shell served with drawn garlic butter. Add an extensive wine cellar and sinful pistachio crème brûlée and it’s clear that Humarhúsid brings Iceland’s best to the fine dining table. 561 3303. humarhusid.is Icelandic Fish & Chips The humble cod just got trendy. Icelandic Fish & Chips, a selfstyled ‘organic bistro’ by Reykjavík’s harbor, has garnered a loyal following since it opened three years ago. It’s obvious what this simple eatery, with both eat-in and take-away service, features on its menu. But it’s the details that make it so popular. The fish itself, not just cod 76 atlantica but catfish, haddock, plaice or whatever the fisherman has just hauled in, is battered in spelt and barley flour and cooked in canola oil, rich in Omega 3 fatty acids. The chips are Maldon-salted wedges of baked potatoes, cooked in olive oil and herbs. And instead of fat-laden tartar sauce, patrons can choose from a variety of skyronnaises—creamy dips made from Icelandic skyr. Those interested in a larger meal will enjoy both whatever rich soup of the day is on offer (served with spelt bread and hummus), and the whipped skyr and berry dessert, served in a champagne flute. This is healthy, tasty food at a good price in a charming environment. 511 1118. fishandchips.is Jómfrúin If Gallup was to poll Reykjavíkians about their favorite Danish open-face sandwich restaurant, Jómfrúin would win hands down. Walk down Laekjargata street at lunch, peek into Jómfrúin’s windows and see for yourself: the restaurant that is a little touch of Denmark is packed. “It’s popular because of Iceland’s relationship to Denmark,” says Jakob Jakobsson, the restaurant’s owner, referring to Iceland’s former status as a Danish colony. “We have quick service, great food, and the location is good.” Don’t take Jakobsson’s word for it. Try it yourself, but make sure to order the ‘H.C. Andersen’: rye bread with crisp bacon, liver pâté, port aspic, horseradish and the ubiquitous butter spread across most of Jómfrúin’s open-face sandwiches. 551 0100, jomfruin.is Kaffi Duus On a roadtrip in Reykjanes? Whether it’s lunch, coffee or dinner, stop by at Duus by the Keflavík marina. The view from the cafe is lovely, with the waves rolling right up to the restaurant and the mountains lining the horizon. As for the food, Duus will keep your belly full around the clock. There is a continental breakfast, or for lunch the popular buffet offers various dishes (fish, meat and veg), with soup and salad bars included. In the afternoon, Duus caters for coffee drinkers. For a dose of culture, visit the neighbors—the Duus Cultural Centre, parts of which date back to 1877, also comprises the Reykjanesbaer Art Gallery, Reykjanes Maritime Museum and the Museum of Heritage. Dinnertime a la carte has pasta and burgers, but fish is really the prime pick here. The favorite is seafood trio a la Duus, featuring three types of local fish with lobster and shrimp. On the weekends, live music makes Duus a popular hangout amongst locals and visitors alike. 421 7080, [email protected] La Primavera “Start with the beef carpaccio,” says Leifur Kolbeinsson, owner and chef of La Primavera. “It’s been on the menu since we started.” An excellent choice, and good to know that as the Italian restaurant’s menu evolves, this old stand-by will remain. When you dine at La Primavera, located in the heart of town on Austurstraeti, you can totally rely on their seasonal offers of the best Icelandic fish and meat available at any given time. La Primavera’s choice of fresh seafood is mouthwatering and their Icelandic lamb is simply adorable. This is an Italian restaurant with a soul and as good as they get. 561 8555. laprimavera.is Lava Dominating the Reykjanes peninsula landscapes, Lava provides the name and the decor of the restaurant at the Blue Lagoon, the country’s most popular tourist destination. Opened in 2007, Lava Restaurant is built into the side of a cliff, with a striking black lava wall projecting into the stylish, modern setting. A glass staircase leads up to the Lava Bar, perfect for a cocktail, and a rooftop viewing deck provides a beautiful view of the lagoon. As for the menu, Lava offers fresh Icelandic ingredients with an international flair. Nearby fishing village Grindavík provides the kitchen with the freshest catch, so it’s no wonder that seafood is the most popular choice among guests. Try Minke Whale with wasabi, ginger and sweet soya for a starter, continue with pan-fried catfish with lime and chili, then finish with the signature dessert of blueberry sorbet, warm chocolate cake and white chocolate skyr mousse. It may be hard to leave the luxurious soak at the Blue Lagoon spa, but with a menu like this you will feel just as pampered out of the water as in. 420 8815. bluelagoon.com Perlan On the Öskjuhlíd hill, under the glass dome of Reykjavik’s landmark building, sits restaurant Perlan (Icelandic for Pearl). The location ensures the best views of the capital area bar none, the restaurant rotates to provide a full 360° panorama every two hours—just remember to check where you are seated when leaving the table, as the centre of the restaurant stays still, you might accidentally sit next to a stranger. Spectacular as the view is, the food does not lose to the landscape. Known for its cooperation with Michelin-starred restaurants abroad—not to mention the long row of trophies they’ve brought home from culinary competitions—the team led by chef de cuisine Elmar Kristjánsson serves an international menu with Icelandic ingredients and influences. The Perlan culinary year is divided into four seasons: In January, there is a low-budget menu with 4 courses for a moderate price. In April, it is time for the exciting summer menu, in the fall it is game season and from November onwards, Perlan offers its famous Christmas Buffet. 562 0200. perlan.is a atlantica 77 DAY TOURS wE‘LL TAKE YOU ThERE! DAY TOURS TO ALL ThE mOST ExcITInG PLAcES In IcELAnD RE-04 - 09:00 The Golden circle All Year MON TUE WED THU FRI SAT 09-17 SUN PRIcE 9800 ISK Don’t miss out on the fascinating experience the Golden Circle gives you. On this tour, you can walk around the world-famous Geysir area, a geothermal field where hot springs are in abundance, geysers explode and pools of mud bubble. Visit the magnificent Gullfoss waterfall along with a visit to Þingvellir national park, the original site of the oldest existing parliament in the world. There the great Atlantic rift is clearly visible, a rift that is slowly pulling Iceland apart along tectonic plates. Book now on www.re.is TImETABLE Valid from 1 June - 31 August 2010 TImETABLE From Reykjavík From Blue Lagoon From Blue Lagoon to Blue Lagoon to Reykjavík to KEF Airport 08:30 10:00 11:00 12:00 13:00 14:00 15:00 16:00 17:00 18:00 11:15 12:15 13:15 14:15 15:15 16:15 17:15 18:15 19:00 21:00 11:15 12:15 14:15 16:15 21:00 From KEF Airport to Blue Lagoon 08:30 10:15 13:00 15:45 17:00 Book now on www.re.is Valid from 1 January - 31 may & 1 September - 31 December 2010 From Reykjavík From Blue Lagoon From Blue Lagoon to Blue Lagoon to Reykjavík to KEF Airport 09:00 10:00 11:00 12:00 13:00 14:00 15:00 16:00 17:00 18:00 11:15 12:15 13:15 14:15 15:15 16:15 17:15 18:15 19:00 21:00 Relax at the Blue Lagoon There is no better way to start or end your Iceland adventure than by bathing in the famous Blue Lagoon. You can either board the bus at BSÍ Bus Terminal in Reykjavík or at Keflavík Airport. The drive takes about 40 min. from Reykjavík and 20 min. from Keflavík Airport. 78 atlantica Book now by calling 580 5450 12:00 14:15 From KEF Airport to Blue Lagoon 16:45 Book now by calling 580 5450 Flexible All Year Return bus fare MON TUE 3200 ISK WED THU FRI Return bus fare and admission SAT SUN 6300 ISK r* fe Of 0610 t 5 e rn AT1 te e: In t cod l ia un ec isco Sp nline d r* fe Of 0610 t 5 e rn AT0 te e: In t cod l ia un ec isco Sp nline d O O RE-15 - 09:00 RE-05 - 13:00 Reykjavík Grand Excursion All Year MON TUE WED 13-16 THU FRI SAT Price SUN 3900 ISK Price South Shore Adventure All Year MON TUE 4900 ISK Get a detailed and comprehensive introduction to Reykjavík´s past and present. Reykjavík´s unique proximity to nature, with salmon river Elliðaá running through it, green valleys and outdoor swimming pools, makes this city second to none in the world. Book now on www.re.is WED THU 09-19 FRI SAT Price SUN 12300 ISK Price 15400 ISK Iceland´s South coast is ideal for nature lovers of all kind. Spectacular scenery, striking waterfalls, stunning views of glaciers, black lava sand coastline, charming villages and impressive rock formations. Book now on www.re.is RE-08 - 09:00 RE-24 - 12:30 RE-06 - 09:00 RE-44 - 09:00 Saga circle Gullfoss - Geysir Direct The wonders of Reykjanes & Blue Lagoon Gullfoss - Geysir & Langjökull Snowmobiling All Year All Year 09-18 MON SUN SAT SUN This tour is perfect for all Saga enthusiasts. We take you around the area where one of many of the Icelandic Sagas took place. En route you will enjoy spectacular landscape, hot springs and waterfalls. Come and follow in the footsteps of the Vikings with us. Price 14500 ISK Book now by calling 580 5450 RE-16/RE-17 - 08:00 The wonders of Snæfellsnes with cruise * Summer WED SAT THU FRI SAT Seasonal SUN In one afternoon you spend your time encountering across-section of Iceland’s natural wonders and geological phenomena: the historical Þingvellir national park, Geysir geothermal area and the amazing Gullfoss waterfall. Don´t miss out on this one. Price 8600 ISK Book now by calling 580 5450 RE-80 - 09:00 Glacier Snowmobile Adventure All Year MON SUN *Operation starts 5 June. 24000 ISK WED 09-19 TUE MON WED THU Book now by calling 580 5450 TUE WED THU FRI SAT SUN Take a ride to the top of the world on a snowmobile and see the amazing Sólheimajökull from above the larger Mýrdalsjökull glacier and be pleasantly surprised by the magnificent views. Being on top of a glacier is a unique and thrilling experience! Price 28900 ISK Book now by calling 580 5450 All Year 09-17 FRI SAT SUN THU FRI SAT SUN 09-19 * Don´miss out on discovering bubbling hot springs, dramatic lava fields, migratory birding cliffs, lonesome lighthouses and last but not least the Blue Lagoon*. Get in touch with some of Iceland´s most famous and exciting natural phenomena. Pièce de resistance - a exhilarating 1 hour snowmobile tour across the endless white snowfields will not leave you intact. *Admission to the Blue Lagoon is not incl. *Daily 1 June - 31 August. Price 13500 ISK Book now by calling 580 5450 Summer MON TUE 24500 ISK Book now by calling 580 5450 Take a walk on the Ice Side All Year 17-22:30 WED THU FRI SAT MON SUN Three of Iceland´s most famous and magical places - Gullfoss, the queen of Icelandic waterfalls, spouting springs at Geysir geothermal area and Þingvellir national park will leave serene and lasting memories. *Operation starts 1 June. Price Price RE-81 - 09:00 RE-34 - 17:00 Gullfoss - Geysir Direct * 08-20 For nature lovers this is a “must do” tour. Lush valleys and lava fields with soft moss, abundant birdlife, diverse flora, craters and salmon rivers characterize this part of Iceland. Price TUE 12:30-18 8400 ISK Book now by calling 580 5450 TUE WED THU 09-19 FRI SAT SUN Want to see and feel something completely different? Why not take a walk on a glacier and experience a surface that you have never been able to walk on before! Take a tour with us and try something new - a once in a lifetime experience for most. Price 19900 ISK Book now by calling 580 5450 * In order to activate the special internet offers you need to enter the online discount codes when booking on www.re.is. Special internet offers on this page can be booked through 30 June 2010. For further information & details on tours please refer to our brochures. Travel Agency Authorised by Icelandic Tourist Board BSÍ Bus Terminal / 101 Reykjavík / O +354 580 5400 / [email protected] / www.re.is atlantica 79 a iceland Facts about Iceland LAND: Iceland is an island of 103,000 square kilometers (39,756 square miles) and 4,970 kilometers of coastline, making it the 16th largest island in the world. Only Madagascar, Britain and Cuba are larger single independent island states. The country’s highest peak, Hvannadalshnjúkur, rises 2,110 meters above sea level. Roughly ten percent of the country is covered in glaciers, including Vatnajökull, the largest in Europe. But get here quick before the glaciers melt: Sólheimajökull, an outlet glacier of the Mýrdalsjökull ice cap, south Iceland, is presently retreating at a rate of approximately 100 meters per year. HISTORY: It is believed that the first permanent settler in Iceland was Ingólfur Arnarson, a Norwegian Viking who settled in A.D. 874 and named his home Reykjavík (smoky bay) after the steam rising from the surrounding countryside. In 930, Icelanders founded Althingi, which still functions as the legislative body, making it the world’s oldest parliament. In 1262, Iceland lost its independence to Norway and in 1380 came under Danish control with Norway. On 17 June 1944, Iceland became independent of Denmark in a ceremony that took place at Thingvellir, the old site of Althingi, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. ENERGY: Because of its location on the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, Iceland is a hotbed of volcanic and geothermal activity: thirty volcanoes have erupted in the past two centuries. Natural hot water supplies the majority of the population with inexpensive, pollutionfree heating. GOVERNMENT: The country is governed by Althingi (parliament), which sits in Reykjavík, whose members are elected every four years. The President is also elected every four years, but the Prime Minister is primarily responsible for the day-to-day politics. Jóhanna Sigurdardóttir is Iceland’s current PM (2009) and Ólafur Ragnar Grímsson (1996) is serving his third term as president. PEOPLE: Iceland’s population is about 313,000, about six percent of which are foreign-born. It’s growing at a rate of 2.6 percent per year. Only 2 percent of Icelanders live in rural areas, the rest live in urban areas, and the majority, about 75 percent, live in the capital area of Reykjavík. But Iceland’s population more than doubles every year thanks to the more than 500,000 travelers who visit the country annually. TIME: Despite its mid-Atlantic location, Iceland observes Greenwich Mean Time yearround. 80 atlantica LANGUAGE: Icelanders are of Norse and Celtic ancestry, and have lived for more than a millennium far away from other countries, which has provided geneticists with a key body of DNA. The language, Icelandic, is close to that of literature (the Sagas) in the 12th century. Most people can also speak English. Icelanders maintain a patronymic naming system, which means that someone’s first name is followed by his or her father’s name and the suffix ‘son’ or ‘dóttir’. For example, Kolbrún Pálsdóttir is Kolbrún, the daughter of Páll. CHURCH: Church and state are not separated in Iceland. The National Church of Iceland, a Lutheran body, is the state church to which 82 percent of Icelanders belong. There is, however, one Roman Catholic cathedral in Reykjavík to serve the just over 2 percent Catholic population. ECONOMY: Iceland’s GDP per capita is USD 45,000. Aside from fishing and fisheries products, the country’s other main export is aluminum, while primary imports include machinery and equipment, petroleum products, and food and textiles. Less than one percent of the land is arable (most is used for grazing) and between one and two percent of Iceland’s population is engaged in agriculture. Iceland produces vegetables, meat, fish and dairy, but imports other foodstuffs. Iceland’s currency is the Icelandic Króna (ISK). HEALTH: Life expectancy for women is 83.0 years and 79.4 for men, one of the highest in the world. a We’ll take you there! relax and enjoy your trip! Fast, frequent and on schedule every day of the week. priCe 2500 iSk o/W Transfer from Keflavík Airport to most hotels and guesthouses in Reykjavík or vice versa. priCe 1950 iSk o/W Transfer from Keflavík Airport to BSÍ Bus Terminal or vice versa. BSÍ Bus Terminal 101 Reykjavík + 354 580 5400 [email protected] / www.flybus.is Book now on www.re.is Travel Agency Authorised by Icelandic Tourist Board Book now by calling 580 5450 O atlantica 81 Icelandic wool – there is nothing like it Look out for the Icelandic Wool and Ístex pattern books and get to know the magic of Lopi! 82 atlantica