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D A I LY N E W S
BA SELWORLD • T HE WAT CH AND JE W ELLER Y SHOW
EDITORIAL
•
BRILLIANCE MEE T S
•
MARCH 19 – 26, 2015
DRIVING THE PULSE OF THE
MARKET HIGHER
B A S E L W O R L D 2 015
BOOSTS ITS LE ADING
POSITION
by Axel Henselder
T
And in the blink of an eye, eight eventful days have passed and the culmination of another excellent edition of
Baselworld is in sight.
During this newsworthy week, the
international press has been hard
pressed to relay all the exciting new
trends and images and reports of the
new collections to their readership and
consumers around the world. And in
this digital day and age, with everything
happening instantly, people on every
continent have been receiving regular
updates as they occur. The upshot of all
this reporting is that consumers have
been given inspiring teasers that will
have them flocking to the stores to
actually see and feel these items in real
life and purchase them once they hit
the market later this year.
Over the past few days, I have
received a great deal of positive feedback from people who return to Basel
year after year. They do so mainly
because Baselworld affords such special
features that can only be experienced
here: direct contact, dialogue and a singular sensation. And, without doubt,
also because Baselworld is the most
important event for the watch and jewellery industry.
I hope also that you, as our guests
from all over the world, enjoyed your
stay in Basel and that you were able,
over and above all the business on hand,
to spend some equally important offtime socialising and sight-seeing.
I am already looking forward to seeing and welcoming you at Baselworld
again next spring, so please save the
date for Baselworld 2016!
Sylvie Ritter,
Managing Director Baselworld
H E A R D I N B A S E L
“I am extremely pleased
with business at Baselworld. For us, the big
shift this year is the significant business growth
we’re seeing in Europe.”
Gregory Thumm,
President of Bulova Corp.
his year’s Baselworld reaffirmed the trendsetting
event’s global importance
for the watch and jewellery industry. Overall, the
show has been a positive one for the
watches and jewellery brands.
Sylvie Ritter, Managing Director
Baselworld, says: “As the trendsetting
hub and epicentre of the entire industry,
the show sent out waves that reverberated around the world. With each successive year, Baselworld strengthens its position as the leading show in its sector.”
François Thiébaud, president of the
Swiss Exhibitors’ Committee, is likewise convinced: “The entire industry is
reflected here in its full excellence.
Based on responses from the brands, we
can conclude that this year will be a
positive one for the industry.”
Chopard’s Co-President KarlFriedrich Scheufele agrees: “Baselworld
is each year’s most important milestone.
We can meet our key customers from all
over the world and share ideas with
them in Basel.”
“We are very pleased with the brand
momentum we have generated at Baselworld. It has been an exciting return for
us and we will take this momentum into
our expansion plans to Europe, the Middle East and Asia,” says David Chu, CEO
of Georg Jensen.
Ulysse Nardin’s CEO Patrik Hoffman says: “For me, it is important to see
how people react to the new products
here because it shows how business will
•
W W W.BA SELWORLD.COM
25.
WEDNESDAY, MARCH
HIGHLIGHTS
02
BUILDING ON A
STRONG IDENTITY
Antonio Calce, new CEO of
Sowind Group, shares the latest
company and product news of
Jeanrichard.
02
THE CHIMES
OF TIME
Bulgari weds technological
advancement with sophisticated
design in its latest Daniel Roth
and Octo timepieces.
08
A MINI LAND
OF WONDER
As a key theme in Haute Horlogerie this year, Métiers d’Art
watches express with the highest
skills of craftsmanship. See some
of the most exceptional pieces.
Uniting all keyplayers under one roof, Baselworld 2015 had a high level of attendance.
be for the next few years. We get feedback not just from one market, but from
all markets. Baselworld is the beginning
of a cycle.”
The generally optimistic mood in the
halls was also noticed by Jean-Daniel
Pasche, President of the Federation of
the Swiss Watch Industry. Bulova’s President Gregory Thumm says: “I am
extremely pleased with business at
Baselworld. We had a very robust show,
writing orders matching our expectations.” Jean-Claude Biver, President of
the watch business unit at LVMH, summarises: “Our new items were warmly
received. All in all, we’re very satisfied
with Baselworld 2015. The results are
excellent and they exceeded our expectations.” Omega’s President Stephen
Urquhart agrees: “This 2015 edition of
Baselworld is in line with our expectations.”
10
22
SETTING THE SAILS
Swiss brand Corum draws on 60
years of rich watchmaking history
combined with sublime design.
The new watches set the course
for success in the future.
A LA FRANÇAISE
The watch world welcomes a
new member at Baselworld.
With sophisticated jewellery
watches, Champs Elysées is
making a grand entrance.
LA MONTRE HERMÈS WITH NEW CEO
L AUREN T DORDE T SEES S T RONG GROW T H POT EN T IAL IN T IMEPIECES
by Elizabeth Doerr
L
a Montre Hermès appointed
Laurent Dordet as its new CEO
in February. Dordet was most
recently CEO of the leather division
Hermès Maroquinerie Sellerie. The
46-year-old manager has been with Hermès in textiles and leathers since 1995.
BWDN: Have you been involved in
watches at all up to this point?
It’s true I’m not a watchmaker, but I’m
passionate about watchmaking. This is
an industry that has always appealed to
me, especially when I was working in
the tanneries and in contact with the
watchmakers. I’m fascinated by the high
craftsmanship, the quality, and the creativity that guides all the brands. I will do
my best to apply my experience in
industry and craftsmanship to La Mon-
tre Hermès and make sure we uphold
the values of Hermès I’ve lived by for
the last 19 years.
Have you visited Baselworld before?
I visited the show some years ago and
was really amazed by the creative inspiration both in terms of watches and
infrastructure with impressive stands
reflecting the DNA of each brand. It
shows a very wide market with strong,
stimulating competition.
Do you foresee making any major
changes at La Montre Hermès?
Today, the watch business represents
approximately 4 percent of total Hermès sales. This division shows strong
potential for growth. The strategy will
not change, although we will imple-
ment a few tactical actions that will
firstly help increase interest in our
watches for both men and women, and
secondly to help us to achieve watchmaking legitimacy. It is a bit early to
share my ideas, but the actions will
concern various domains such as production linked to the supply chain and
creation to offer a wider choice to our
female clientele.
Tell us about the new Slim d’Hermès
from your perspective. Why should a
consumer choose to buy this product?
We were looking for an elegant, classic,
but also contemporary piece that speaks
to the essential codes of the brand. It
should appeal to men and women looking
for a piece that reflects Hermès’ values,
1.1, B55
high quality, and creativity.
Laurent Dordet, CEO, La Montre Hermès.
2 WATCHES
DA I LY N E W S
WEDNESDAY, MARCH 25.2015
CONTENTS
“WE WILL CONTINUE THE JOURNEY”
A N T O N I O C A L C E , N E W C E O O F S O W I N D G R O U P, TA L K S A B O U T J E A N R I C H A R D
01 WATCHES
Interview by Iris Wimmer -Olbort
02 Jeanrichard / Bulgari
04 Métiers d’Art / Breguet / Patek
Philippe / Glashütte Original
08 Ulysse Nardin / Omega / Nomos
10 Corum / Fabergé / Franc Vila / Oris
14 Alpina / Maurice Lacroix /
Emmanuel Bouchet
17 Raymond Weil / Eterna / R2 Trade /
C. H. Wolf
21 Casio / Citizen / Seiko / Festina
22 Champs Elysées / Jacob Jensen /
Matthias Naeschke
27 Sequel / Pequignet / Charmex of
Switzerland
28 Moritz Grossmann / Rodania
32 Buben & Zörweg / Manjaz
35 Ice-Watch / Fiyta / Kenzo / Nixon
39 Bremont / Hysek / Revelation
02 MARKETS
45 Swiss watch industry
46 Thailand
03 JEWELLERY
49 Stenzhorn / Ivy
50 Peacocks and Feathers /
Ruppenthal / Kimberlite Diamond
52 Scheffel / Agresti
56 Rodney Rayner / Carla Amorim
59 Yana Nesper / Lydia Courteille Paris
62 Gay Frères / Colour for men
65 Fabergé / Kaleidoscopic colours
66 Domino / Hanadi Keane
04 INNOVATIONS
71 Laser Cutting and Engraving /
Bullnheimer / Watch testing
05 GEMSTONES
75 Pearls
77 Estate jewellery
06 WORLD OF BASEL
80 Versace / Mido / Revue Thommen /
Books
84 Baselworld Village / Imprint
An ePaper edition of the Baselworld
Daily News is also available for download from www.baselworld.com
F IND U S AT
www.facebook.com/
baselworld
www.twitter.com/
#baselworld
www.weibo.com/baselworld
J
eanrichard has a strong presence
with a highly recognisable style.
This will be maintained – as well
as the characteristic philosophy
of the brand and the partnership
with interesting personalities. In
addition, the brand seeks to appeal
more to women.
BWDN: You’ve been the new CEO of
the Sowind Group since January and
thus also responsible for Jeanrichard.
What characterises the brand and how
should it develop?
Antonio Calce: We will continue on the
successful path Jeanrichard has embarked
on since 2012 with the unique, clearly
identifiable product design strategy for
all collections and the highly recognisable
cushion-shaped case.
How has this style been received by
your clientele?
Clients have received the Jeanrichard
collections very well, they have met
with a lot of recognition – particularly
the iconic Terrascope collection. Every
brand needs a strong identity and that is
what we have been able to achieve with
Jeanrichard and what we will continue
to build on.
Jeanrichard’s watches embody sporty
worlds on land, in the water and in the
air. Do you plan to remain loyal to
these worlds?
In 2012, we introduced the Jeanrichard
‘Philosophy of Life’ and the collection
universe with our four core focus elements: the Terrascope for the earth,
Aquascope for water, Aeroscope for air,
and the 1681 for our heritage and fire of
passion of the brand – this is what Jeanrichard stands for and we will continue
on this journey.
What new watches are you presenting
in Basel? We are mainly focusing on our Iconic
Terrascope collection here at Baselworld. We are launching a new Terrascope GMT watch as well as an all-black
Carbon Terrascope. In addition, we are
presenting a specially treated Terra-
TIME FOR TUNES
Antonio Calce, CEO
of the Sowind Group.
scope blue dial in a 44-mm version – this
is in addition to the 39-mm counterpart
we introduced just before Baselworld. We are also introducing the more
feminine companion to our popular Terrascope bronze dial with an ostrich
strap: this new 39-mm version features a
set bezel with 54 diamonds in 0.8 carats.
Jeanrichard promotes unconventional
achievements and has partnerships with
unconventional individuals. Will you
continue to cultivate these affiliations?
Yes, we will continue our very focused partnership and communications strategy and
fine-tune it even further in order to get a
1.0, D49
faster return on investment.
Octo Finissimo,
Bulgari.
NE W DANIEL ROT H PIECE SOUNDS OFF WHILE
THE OCTO GE TS EVEN MORE REFINED
by Elizabeth Doerr
T
here are products whose forms
are instantly recognisable.
Something is just so strikingly
obvious about them that they don’t
even need a logo. It’s good that Daniel
Roth’s cases, which are neither cornered, round, nor oval, belong to this
category as Roth’s name has now disappeared from the timepieces that he
originally created. Roth sold his brand
to Bulgari in 2000; a little over a decade later, the boutique marque was
fully integrated into the Bulgari universe and Roth’s name left the dial.
It was also in 2000 that the Daniel
Roth brand began developing its first
in-house calibre, which ticks today in
several highly complicated and incredibly aesthetic models usually outfitted
with a tourbillon and more. The brandnew Carillon Tourbillon is one of these:
a three-hammer timepiece playing a
three-note tune powered by handwound manufacture Calibre DR3300,
which comprises 327 components that
have been artfully arranged around the
large tourbillon cutaway at 6 o’clock.
The specially shaped gongs are delicately handcrafted in several stages to
achieve identical sound quality. They
are shaped by hand before being hardened at a temperature of around 900°C.
They are carefully cleaned and polished
before a second firing in the furnace at a
slightly slower temperature. Meticulous
operations, they result in a metal that
boasts the kind of resonant qualities
needed to ensure a charming sound.
This is in perfect harmony with the aesthetic architecture of Calibre 3300, the
shape of whose bridges and the positioning of whose various components were
designed to be original, contrasting, and
eye-catching. Moreover, Bulgari also
made the decision to rework the movement’s overall design. The dial is now
suspended from the inner bezel ring and
topped by a complex-to-manufacture faceted sapphire crystal that enhances the
resonance of the striking mechanism
while providing better visibility of the
mechanism. The 48-mm case, too, has
been redesigned and slimmed down.
The original collection watches by
Bulgari are designed to embody the
clean style that seems to be the common denominator of the company, running through its product palette with
venerable purity. Unmistakeable down
to the last detail and with a use of style
elements that borders on genius, they
turn heads. The timeless case styles in
particular are appealing due to an
emphasis on simplicity based on the
classical architecture of the Hellenistic
period – not surprising since the Bulgari
family originally left Greece to settle in
Rome. This is doubly true for the
revamped Octo line launched in 2012,
which the brand bills as “the complex
art of simplicity”.
Here at Baselworld, Bulgari is
launching the new Octo Finissimo in a
40-mm rose gold case. It is powered by
an ultra-thin manually wound calibre
measuring just 2.23 millimetres high;
Carillon Tourbillon,
Bulgari.
Timeless Bulgari flair attracts many visitors in Hall 1.
the entire watch measures just 5.15
milimetres in height. It amasses a power
reserve of 65 hours. While the front
displays the hours and minutes as well
as an off-centred subsidiary seconds dial
between 7 and 8 o’clock, the watch
boasts a power reserve indicator on the
1.0, A01
back.
©2015 movado group, inc.
NEW MOVADO GRAVITY™
42MM BLACK PVD-FINISHED STAINLESS
STEEL/CARBON FIBER CASE, CARBON
FIBER DIAL, BLACK RUBBER STRAP.
MOVADO.COM
HALL 1.0 / STAND A111
4 WATCHES
DA I LY N E W S
WATCHMAKING MAGIC
E L I T E B R A N D S I N T R O D U C E P I E C E S T H AT E M B O D Y
H I G H S TA N DA R D S O F C R A F T S M A N S H I P
by Carol Besler
W
atchmaking’s Métiers
d’Art compare to the
hand finish on fashion’s haute couture
creations. They are
finished by hand, using the finest materials, touched only by master craftsmen.
At Baselworld, most of the elite watch
brands introduce pieces that embody
this high standard of craftsmanship,
with beautifully worked dials.
Harry Winston, already renowned for
its diamond setting and enameling
expertise, has turned this year to the art
of working with delicate mother-of-pearl.
The Premier Lace 31mm contrasts a
black sunburst background dial with an
overlay of open worked mother-of-pearl
that is carved to resemble lace. The
motif is created using pieces that are just
0.15 mm high and therefore very delicate
to craft in the filigree arabesque pattern.
Another version is made in the contrasting colour combination of pink motherof-pearl over a black Tahitian mother-ofpearl background. Harry Winston chose
lace for this motif because it represents
enduring time, and requires many long
hours of craftsmanship.
Hublot’s Big Bang Broderie also suggests the artistry of haute couture with
a dial that pays tribute to the craft of
embroidery. The embroidered elements
were created by Swiss company Bischoff
in a process akin to the manufacture of
high-tech carbon fibre components,
using tulle. The overall composition on
the dial, which includes eleven diamonds, forms a skull shape. It contains
the automatic Calibre HUB1110 and is
made in three versions: gold, silver or all
black, studded with black diamonds.
The Vulcain 50s Presidents’ Cloisonné Grand Feu is a bold example of the
more traditional métiers of cloisonné
enameling. It represents the mythological Vulcain, the Roman god of fire of the
forge. Other pieces in the brand’s collectible Cloisonné series include
Pegasus, Dragon, Pandas, Panthers,
Tigers and The World.
Sarcar’s Carrousel Micro Painting
series is an example of miniature painting, a painstaking process that must be
done using a microscope, with tiny
brushes. One of these new limited editions depicts a mother and baby goat in
a meadow, in honour of the Chinese Year
of the Goat. It is set with 205 brilliantcut diamonds totaling 7.66 carats, and
three solitaire diamonds. It contains an
automatic movement. In addition, the
Geneva-based brand offers a more jewelled version, with a goat outlined in
gold and set with pavé diamonds and an
emerald for the eye.
NEWS
THE POETRY OF TIME
Big Bang Broderie,
Hublot
50s Presidents’ Watch,
Vulcain.
Harry Winston showcases
The Premier Collection
Artistic Crafts this year.
GLAMOROUS ADDITIONS
TO PAVONINA
BREGUE T ENCHAN T S WI T H
F E M I N I N E M E C H A N I C A L W AT C H E S
PATEK PHILIPPE – The Annual Calendar for ladies presents a new, subtly
reworked case measuring 38 mm in
diameter. It is adorned with 141 diamonds. The white gold model features a
blue sunburst dial and a blue alligator
strap. The rose gold version comes with
a silvery sunburst dial and a violine
strap. The watch is driven by the selfwinding movement Calibre 324 S QA
LU which can be admired through the
1.0, D11
sapphire case back. (sz)
Premier Lace 31mm,
Harry Winston.
by Iris Wimmer -Olbort
NEW ENCHANTING MODEL S MAKE
T H E I R D E B U T AT B A S E L W O R L D
B
by Sabine Zwet tler
reguet is a master of the art of
grandes complications and a master of the art of grand emotions.
Ladies’ watches and jewellery timepieces from this traditional brand are seductive artworks of time. Lavishly embellished with precious gemstones,
Breguet’s intricate jewellery pieces
embody an enchanting and uniquely special espirit. This charm also distinguishes
the Rêve de Plume Haute Joaillerie
evening watch, which is adorned with a
feather-shaped sculpture along the lefthand side of its rose gold or white gold
case. Breguet’s artisans used diamonds of
various sizes to give a true-to-life appearance to this feather. The motif recalls
Queen Marie Antoinette of France, who
used a similar plume to write countless
letters to her husband King Louis XVI
and to her imperial family in Austria. The
feather motif is repeated on the dial,
which combines guilloche and white
mother-of-pearl. A self-winding mechanical movement ticks inside the case.
Commemorating another queen,
the Reine de Naples collection refers to
the first wristwatch that Abraham-Louis Breguet had created for Caroline
Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810.
Breguet expands this line at Baselworld, where the manufacture debuts
two new automatic models in petite
G
Rêve de Plume Haute
Joaillerie, Breguet.
Reine de Naples Princesse Mini, Breguet.
dimensions. The Reine de Naples Princesse Mini measures a mere 32.7 by
27.3 millimetres. A stainless steel or
rose gold case in this small format surrounds a domed dial made of mother-ofpearl with large in-laid numerals.
erman watchmaker Glashütte
Original presents seven new
models in its Pavonina collection, which debuted two years ago. The
new models stay true with the signature
softly flowing feminine forms and exquisite details. They feature a newly
designed face with circular centre and
Arabic numerals. With dials ranging
from minimalist silver to delicate, shimmering mother-of-pearl and galvanic black, cabochon or brillant-cut diamond indexes as
well as lugs studded with 42
brillant-cut diamonds, the
new Pavonina collection is
sure to suit any lady’s taste.
They are crafted by the
manufacture’s own dial
department in Pforzheim, Germany. All
models feature the
collections distinctive
cushion shaped case,
whose form dates back
to the 1920’s, when it
was widely used with
then newly fashionable
wristwatches. The collection uses the Calibre 03-02
1.0, A19
quartz movement, newly developed by
Glashütte Original. It offers three times
the standard magnetic protection,
shielding the sensitive mechanism from
the influence of modern mobile electronic devices and thus enhancing the
quality of the watch. The plate is decorated with the characteristic Glashütte
stripe finish, and the engraved logo
appears in gold on the silver plate. The
polished case back provides
ample space for individual
engravings and personal dedications. The love of detail and
variety is equally apparent in
the bracelets. Straps are
offered in a range of fashionably feminine colours,
ranging from stylish
grey to midnight blue
in Roma satin and
from shimmering
cream-white to glacier blue in calfskin
leather. A metal bracelet in stainless steel,
red gold and bicolour
whose links echo the
cushion shape of the case
are also available.
1.0, C25C
Pavonina, Glashütte Original.
POWERED BY
SOLAR ENERGY
T ISSOT T-TO U CH EX PERT SO L A R. TACTI LE WATCH POW ERED BY SOLAR
E N E R G Y, O F F E R I N G 2 0 F U N C T I O N S I N C L U D I N G W E AT H E R F O R E C A S T,
ALTIM ETE R AN D C O MPASS. IN N OVATORS BY TRADI TI ON.
T-TO U C H .COM
H A L L E 1. 0 D 3 1
120 years of Swiss watchmaking
1895
It was in 1895 that M. Dreyfuss
opened his factory in the Swiss
town of La Chaux de Fonds.
Demand for good value, quality
merchandise ensured the business
grew quickly.
1940
Rotary appointed official watch
supplier to the British Army.
2009
Rotary introduces two significant
initiatives - Waterproof Standard
and Lifetime Guarantee
2013
Rotary becomes the Global Official
Timekeeper for Chelsea FC
2014
Rotary is awarded the
Queen’s Award for Enterprise in
International Trade
Jura Limited Edition
A stunning new timepiece from the Swiss made, skeleton
automatic collection. Limited to 500 pieces worldwide.
THE DREYFUSS GROUP
HALL 1.2. STAND D09
2015
Rotary celebrates 120 years
of family heritage and Swiss
watchmaking
8 WATCHES
DA I LY N E W S
“STATE OF THE ART”
U W E A H R E N D T, M A N A G I N G D I R E C T O R AT N O M O S G L A S H Ü T T E ,
A N N O U N C E S A N E W A U T O M AT I C C A L I B R E
Interview by Sabine Zwet tler
N
omos Glashütte is one of
Germany’s most successful watch brands and
has earned the largest
number of design prizes,
for example, the Eames Good Design
Award from the Chicago Athenaeum for
its Metro watch. The Glashütte-based
brand is continuing its successful course
with its new extra-slim automatic calibre.
BWDN: Nomos Glashütte surprised
many pundits with the presentation of its
own kit because few watch brands have
mastered this technical challenge. How
did your customers and commercial partners respond to this stroke of genius?
Uwe Ahrendt: The response was overwhelming. We hadn’t expected such
enthusiasm from retail customers and our
partners in the trade. We ultimately built
three times as many Metro models with
the new Nomos Swing System than we
had planned, but we still weren’t able to
satisfy the demand. This watch remains
sold out in many locations. We were particularly surprised to see our customers’
strong interest in our in-house kit: it not
only guarantees the greatest precision for
our watches, it also shows that independence and in-house production play major
roles for watch aficionados.
Minimatik,
Nomos Glashütte.
Uwe Ahrendt, Managing Director at Nomos Glashütte.
What is the focal point of your presence at the fair this year?
We’re presenting the DUW 3001 this year,
a totally new automatic calibre from our
manufactory in Glashütte. This ‘motor’ is
special because it’s extremely slim. A
mere 3.2 millimetres tall, it’s more slender
than nearly every other self-winding
movement manufactured in large series in
the watch world. Also new on the market
is the combination of the extremely accurate rate of the DUW 3001 and its deployment inside an affordably priced wristwatch. Slim movements tend either to be
rather inaccurate or extraordinarily expensive. We’re introducing this new calibre in
two models at first: in our classic Tangente, with nearly the same overall height
as the hand-wound model and in our new
Minimatik, a cheery and fine wristwatch
with an aura that I would describe as
feminine in an entirely new way.
Nomos Glashütte began its official
entry onto the U.S. market in the summer of 2014. How have the sales figures
developed since then?
It seems that watch lovers in America are
very eager to welcome Nomos Glashütte.
America is currently our strongest-growing market. Our numbers more than tripled there during the past year. Nomos
Glashütte now has a subsidiary in New
York because we want to look after our
customers personally in America, too.
Glashütte is essentially only a small
city in Saxony. But, for connoisseurs, it
epitomises fine and artistic watchmaking. How do you explain this enviable
reputation?
I’m a native of Glashütte so it’s selfexplanatory for me that the world’s
best watches are built here in my
hometown, where a sign at the city’s
MECHANICAL MARVELS
F R O M J A Q U E M A R T S T O R E P E AT E R S – U LY S S E
NARDIN HAU TE HORLOGERIE MARCHES ON
b y R o b e r ta N a a s
U
lysse Nardin has long been
known for its watchmaking
expertise and for bringing the
world incredible, complex jaquemarts,
minute repeaters and tourbillons. This
legend continues in 2015. So the manufacture is marching forward with complicated watches this year that run the
gamut from the new Freak Lab with
silicium technology to the new Hannibal Minute Repeater Jaquemarts and a
second music watch (the sequel to the
Stranger), and more.
The new Hannibal Minute Repeater Jaquemarts watch is part of the
brand’s tradition of unveiling exceptional minute repeaters with moveable
Jaquemarts on the dial that move with
the chiming of the hours, quarter hours
and minutes. In fact, the Hannibal
watch may well be the sequel to the
Alexander the Great Minute Repeater
Jaquemarts that the brand unveiled four
years ago here at Baselworld – as the
new watch features a similar dial layout
and moveable ‘Alexander’ figures.
The new watch pays tribute to one
of the early world’s great generals:
Hannibal Barca. A military strategist,
Hannibal spent most of his time predicting the moves of his enemy and
cutting them off. In fact, in his quest to
take Rome in the Second Punic War
(which lasted from 218 B.C. to 201 B.C.
and was also referred to as The Hannibalic War), he crossed the Pyrenees and
the Alps with troops of soldiers and elephants. The elephants were an incredible sight as they moved across mountains and fields and became synonymous
with that Hannibal victory.
The stunning new watch depicts
that journey via solid gold figures on the
dial that represent Hannibal in different
stances (on horseback, fighting, with
elephants). Each time the minute
repeater chimes, a Jaquemarts moves.
The UN-78 movement, equipped with
a one-minute tourbillon visible from the
dial side, powers the watch. The repeater is a Westminster Carillon Tourbillon
that strikes the hours, quarters and minutes on four different chimes.
The watch is created in
platinum in a limited
edition of 30 pieces.
Since music is
an underlying
theme of Ulysse
Nardin’s complicated watches,
the brand is also
unveiling the
newest musical
melody watch, the
Vivaldi. Much like
Vivaldi Musical Watch, Ulysse Nardin.
gates proclaims, ‘Hier lebt die Zeit’
(“Time lives and dwells here”).
Glashütte is synonymous with quality,
earnestness, industriousness and artistic craftsmanship. We adore little
wheels and tiny screws. We love to
work meticulously. And we enjoy perfecting things all the way down to the
nearest thousandth of a millimetre. An
inquiring mind and a courageous spirit
naturally play their roles too because
they prevent us from getting stuck in
the past. And we invest so we can
progress with modern concepts and
cutting-edge technologies. You mentioned our reputation: our image in the
world naturally has to do with style and
communication, too. In my opinion,
those are two fields in which we prove
that we’re truly state of the art. We
look beyond the horizon. We don’t
ruminate. We don’t chew the cud of
what has already been thought and
done. Instead, we extract the best
from Glashütte’s tradition and mix it
with contemporary spirit, expertise
and artistry.
What do you hope to achieve with your
presence at Baselworld?
We try to set a standard with our new
manufacture automatic Calibre DUW
3001, thus sparking enthusiasm for
mechanical timekeeping among additional target groups. We lead the market
in hand-wound watches, but everyone in
the industry knows that far more selfwinding watches are sold. To be able to
offer elegant, slim, chronometer-capable and made-to-last automatic watches at prices below 3,000 euros – and
which encase manufacture calibres:
that’s what makes us genuinely spe1.1, E79
cial!
GAZING SKY WARD
the Stranger watch unveiled in 2013
(which played Strangers in the Night on
demand), the new watch plays the Vivaldi
melody, Violin Concerto in E, also on
demand. The movement is developed in
house and is a self-winding musical
mechanical piece. Created in a limited
edition of 99 pieces, the rose-gold watch is
based on the UN calibre 690 with silicium
technology. The music box portion of the
watch is a flat mechanism that can be
played on the hour or on request thanks to
a ‘Melody-on-call’ function.
While these musical marvels are
exciting, Ulysse Nardin has a lot more
up its proverbial sleeve here at Basel1.0, A39
world.
Ulysee Nardin is synonymous with complexity.
OMEGA PRESEN T S NE W SPEEDMAS T ER MODEL S
WI T H BL ACK AND WHI T E CER AMIC CASES
B
lack, grey and white are the
moon’s colours, as we can see
on photographs of this fascinating celestial body. They’re
also the colours of the Speedmaster models with ceramic
cases with which Omega gazes
at the starry firmament. New at
Baselworld is a radiant white
chronograph variant with the apt
name Omega Speedmaster White
Side of the Moon. Not only is this
watch’s case made from solid ceramic, the same robust material is also
used for the dial, the chronograph’s buttons, the back of the case and the folding clasp. This hard and resistant substance ably protects Omega’s co-axial
Calibre 9300, which is the first co-axial
movement with chronograph function to
be developed in house at Omega.
This model testifies to the competence that Omega has acquired in the
manufacturing and processing of ceramic models. The Speedmaster Dark Side
of the Moon collection is bringing additional newcomers to Basel. A total of
four new models are available in the following versions: Black-Black, Sedna
Black, Pitch Black and Vintage Black.
Each name alludes to the model’s colour combination: Black-Black is wholly
black, Sedna Black weds black with
Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon Black-Black,
Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon Vintage
Black, Omega.
Omega’s exclusive red-gold alloy, Pitch
Black has Super-LumiNova-coated
markings on its dial and bezel, and Vintage Black combines black with a pale
retro-look brown. Each model in the
Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon
collection encases automatic chronograph Calibre 9300 with coaxial escapement. This movement is visible through
a pane of sapphire crystal in the back of
1.0, C25D
the case.
“ULTRA-RARE” U-BOAT MASTERPIECES AT BASELWORLD 2015
Hall 1.1 / Booth b67
www.uboatwatch.com
10 WATCHES
DA I LY N E W S
SIX DECADES OF
WATCHMAKING EXPERTISE
C O R U M ’ S C E L E B R AT I O N S I N C L U D E N E W B U B B L E , A D M I R A L’ S C U P, A N D A G O L D E N B R I D G E B O O K
by Elizabeth Doerr
I
n 2015, Corum celebrates its
60th anniversary. “It’s also the
35th anniversary of the Golden
Bridge, which makes it the perfect occasion to launch a book
dedicated to this emblematic and iconic
model,”
says
Marie-Alexandrine
Leibowitch, spokesperson for Corum,
when asked about this important year
for the brand. She refers to the new
book “Bridging Art and Mechanics”,
which makes its debut here at Baselworld. The tome takes a detailed look
back over the history of this unique
timepiece. Additionally, the brand
releases a follow-up to last year’s artful
Golden Bridge Dragon timepiece by
adding an engraved phoenix to keep the
legendary creature company, thereby
turning it into yet another fanciful creation for collectors.
The backbone of Corum’s collection
has always been the Admiral’s Cup,
which was added to in 1960, and thus
also celebrates a round anniversary. One
of the brand’s most recognizable timepieces, it features an original twelvesided case shape embellished with dis-
NEWS
Admiral’s Cup Ladies Legend, Corum.
tinctive nautical pennants in place of
hour numerals. Rooted in founder René
Bannwart’s fondness for sailing and
regattas, the Admiral’s Cup derived its
name from an annual series of yacht
races that took place off the Southern
coast of England. Corum introduces
new additions to the 55-year-old line in
phire crystal that looks much like a great
glass bubble, Wunderman’s endless dial
variations were often colourful depictions of images that occupied his active
imagination. The new Corum Heritage
Bubble is available in three variations
that show off its roots as well as its
present intent: to honour the present
with great ideas from the past and
please one’s audience at the same time.
“The three pillars of Corum will
remain intact: the Corum Bridges,
Admiral’s Cup, and Heritage,” Leibowitch adds. “However, there will be a
horizontal repositioning of the collections whereby we will restructure it
according to ‘entry-level’, ‘core-range’,
and ‘high-end’ categories. Therefore,
one of the foremost tasks for us is to
reduce the number of references and
provide more competitive pricing for
our timepieces. In order to do this, we
will not only continue to enhance our
in-house capabilities, but will also
increase the contribution of current
bestsellers through the extension of the
product life-cycle and increased market1.0, A49
ing efforts.”
Corum celebrates two anniversaries: 60 years of
the brand’s inception and 35 years of the iconic
Golden Bridge.
PRETTY PEACOCK
INACCESSIBLE TOURBILLON
FA B E R G É I N A U G U R AT E S R E B I R T H W I T H H A U T E
HORLOGERIE AND HIGH JEWELLERY
SNAKE CHARMER FRANC VIL A PU T S
A C O M P L I C AT E D T W I S T O N T R A D I T I O N
by Elizabeth Doerr
by Elizabeth Doerr
I
ORIS dives into the past and returns to
the present day with a true-to-detail
retro version of a model that was first
marketed fifty years ago. The case of the
Divers Sixty Five is now forty millimetres in diameter and has a unidirectionally rotatable bezel with black aluminium
inlays and a sixty-minute scale. Luminous appliqués brighten the black dial.
This new retro wristwatch is powered
by an automatic calibre and watertight
to a depth of one-hundred metres. A
historically inspired engraving adorns
1.0, D35
the back of the case. (sz)
2015: the Admiral’s Cup Ladies Legend
includes enough new attractive references to suit the needs and wants of any
woman’s personality and is available
powered by both quartz and automatic
movements. “We are also launching
some exclusive complications in this
line,” Leibowitch reveals, referring in
part to the Admiral’s Cup Legend 42
Flying Tourbillon.
“Since its beginning, Corum has
taken pride in being a distinctively
‘different’ Swiss watch manufacturer,”
Leibowitch continues. “The original
partnership between Gaston Ries and
his nephew René Bannwart was perfect;
together they created most iconic and
unique timepieces. Uniqueness, creativity and exclusivity will continue to
remain an integral part of our philosophy.” Even after the brand was sold to
Severin Wunderman in 2000, these continued to be guiding principles.
That same year – 15 years ago –
Wunderman designed and released the
Bubble, which is now being revived at
Baselworld in honour of the anniversary.
Characterised by a large, domed sap-
t’s hardly been noticeable from the
outside, but Fabergé has undergone
quite a transformation on the inside:
the luxury brand rooted in Peter Carl
Fabergé’s legacy merged with coloured
gemstone company Gemfields in 2013.
And now the first real inklings of what is
to come launches here at Baselworld in
a “rebirth” of sorts. For one, the first
Fabergé egg in many years will see the
light of day, marking the 100th anniversary of last imperial commissioned egg.
Secondly, the brand will launch creations in jewellery inspired by nature,
fashion, and femininity – and naturally
providing an outlet for Gemfields “mine
and market” strategy, thereby positioning Fabergé as a coloured gemstone
specialist. And, naturally, it also introduces a global watch collection with four
lines (high jewellery, gents haute horlogerie, ladies haute horlogerie, and ladies
core collection). Here at Baselworld
Fabergé introduces the Visionnaire I
made by Giulio Papi of Renaud & Papi
from the men’s line.
However, it is the brand-new Lady
Compliquée from the ladies’ haute horlogerie collection that is our focus here.
This exceptional timepiece is based
upon an idea conceived by Swiss journalist Louis Nardin and mechanically
engineered by Jean-Marc Wiederrecht
of Agenhor. The minutes are displayed
by a retrograde fan that opens out along
a scale, while the owner can choose the
reference by which to mark the hours, or
not at all. The constant motion of the
dial can either be interpreted as showing the time or as precious sparkling
scenery housed in a 38-mm platinum
case set with 127 brilliant-cut diamonds,
31 tourmalines, 57 tsavorites, white
1.1, A13
gold, and mother-of-pearl.
Lady Compliquée Peacock, Fabergé.
F
ranc Vila established his eponymous brand in 2004 and designed
a watch case that evolved into
what he would come to call the “Esprit
Unique” shape. Now very characteristic
of his timepieces, he evolved even further, naming the expressive new case
the Cobra because it highly resembles
its serpentine namesake.
Franc Vila’s complicated Inaccessible Tourbillon Répétition Minute is
housed in a heavy platinum version of
this uniquely spirited case – which is
extremely unusual because repeating
wristwatches are rarely, if ever, housed
in platinum as the dense precious metal
tends to dull the sound of the gongs.
However, Spanish-born Franc Vila has a
trick up his sleeve: in addition to having
a degree in arts (useful for designing
watches and cases), he also boasts an
education in chemistry, which has provided him with a thorough knowledge of
materials. Many years’ experience in the
watch industry have solidified it. So Vila
has solved the “platinum-repeating
problem” by combining alloys of varying
density, both in the case and the components that relate to the sound diffusion
of the gongs.
But that’s not what most observers
will focus on; it is, of course, the cutaway in the dial at 6 o’clock providing an
unimpeded view of the flying tourbillon
that primarily attracts the eye. Another
original element of this timepiece is
that the minute repeater is not wound
by a traditional slide on the side of the
case, but instead by rotating the platinum alloy bezel. Each one of these
unique timepieces is powered by handwound Calibre FV No3, comprising 315
components and boasting a 90-hour
2.2, C51
power reserve.
Inaccessible Tourbillon Répétition
Minute, Franc Vila.
B A S E LW O R L D H A L L 1 . 1 / D 5 5
14 WATCHES
DA I LY N E W S
A NEW MOVEMENT
AND A NEW WOMEN’S LINE
ALPINA IS GROWING BY LE APS AND BOUNDS
T H A N K S T O S T R O N G P R O D U C T L I N E- U P S
A
lpina has a grand year in
store. Recently, with the
help of its brand ambassador and medal-winning
skier Tina Maze, the company unveiled its newest Comtesse
ladies line of mechanical watches, which
is on display here at Baselworld. It is the
first dedicated ladies watch line the
brand has had since the 1980’s, and is
named for the first Comtesse line
launched by Alpina in 1963. Automatic
movements and a deft blend of sporty
elegance mark the re-launch of the line.
While the five new models offer stainless steel and two-tone gold looks with
diamonds, they are also water-resistant
to 100 metres. “We are taking a severaltier approach to our collection this year,”
says Guido Benedini, CEO of Alpina.
“That includes the launch of this new
ladies Comtesse line and bringing on
new brand ambassador Melissa Arnot in
addition to Maze.” Arnot has summited
Mt. Everest multiple times and is preparing to be the first woman to reach
the top without use of oxygen. “Welcoming her on board as a brand ambassador is key not only for gaining recognition of the ladies line, but also to reinforce our commitment to today’s adventurous men and women,” says Benedini.
In addition to the new Comtesse women’s watch line, and to reinforce the
brand’s watchmaking prowess, Alpina is
introducing a new one-hundred-percent
in-house-made flyback chronograph. “It
is a module based on the Alpina 710 and
has an ingenious construction with 50
percent fewer parts than others on the
market,” explains Benedini. “It has several patents and underscores our position of offering only reliable and robust
watches that match the spirit of our
customers and brand ambassadors.”
According to Benedini, the new
flyback chronograph movement was five
years in the research and development
stages, and is one of very few manufacture-made flyback chronographs on the
market. It will be housed initially in the
Alpiner 4 line of antimagnetic, antireflective sports watches.
To further solidify its positioning as
the brand for outdoor sports enthusiasts
and those committed to nature, exploration and sustainability, Alpina is expanding into the world of trail running and
will be the official watch of the Trail
Running Foundation. Finally, the brand
offers a new line of quartz chronograph
watches in a dive collection, the
Seastrong Diver, which is on display
1.1, A91
here at Baselworld.
Aletta Stas-Bax (middle),
Director of Frédérique
Constant, in conversation
at the joint stand.
Ebis eaquas aut doluptia volora venda
Comtesse, Alpina.
REGATTA COUNTDOWN IN CARBON
A NEW COMPLICATION
M A U R I C E L A C R O I X O F F E R S S P O R T Y M E C H A N I C A L W AT C H E S
A N D I N N O V AT I V E M AT E R I A L S
EMMANUEL BOUCHE T DEBU T S EPON Y MOUS
BOU T IQUE BR AND WI T H CLE VER T IMEPIECE
by Elizabeth Doerr
T
he final minutes before the start
of a regatta are probably the
most exciting moments in the
life of a sailor because this is the interval
crucial when a yacht most be brought
into the best possible position at the
optimal instant. That’s why the countdown prior to the start of the race must
be measured with the utmost accuracy.
Maurice Lacroix’s new Pontos S Regatta
model assists with this task. The newcomer not only has a large, arcing and
clearly legible window in which the
regatta countdown is shown first in blue
and then in red, but also fits around the
wrist with uncommon lightness and comfort thanks to its case, which is fabricated
in-house from lightweight and robust
carbon. The manufacturing method produces an individually patterned appearance in black and grey. An automatic
movement powers the regatta countdown, which is set and activated via the
crown. A rubber wristband completes the
ensemble of the Pontos S Regatta.
The Pontos S Extreme likewise uses
an unconventional material. The case
and bezel of this 43-mm self-winding
chronograph are made of Powerlite.
Reserved solely for Maurice Lacroix,
this exclusive alloy combines alumini-
um, magnesium, titanium, zirconium
and ceramic. Powerlite is three times
lighter in weight than steel, but twice as
hard. Maurice Lacroix presents Powerlite in the No. 7 Pontos S Extreme with
naturally untreated surfaces in a pale
grey tone with a yellowish tinge. The
innovative alloy is given a dark, anthracite-coloured finish in the No. 6 Pontos
S Extreme. Each variant encases an
automatic movement and is watertight
1.1, E63
to 20 atmospheres.
Pontos S Regatta, Maurice Lacroix.
No. 7 Pontos S Extreme, Maurice Lacroix.
F
rench master watchmaker
Emmanuel Bouchet spent most
of his career up to 1999 creating
jewellery, repairing complicated timepieces, and restoring antique clocks for
French museums. In 1999, he headed
off to Switzerland in search of a new
career and found it in the employ of
prestigious brands for nine years. In
sup2008, he co-founded Centagora, a sup
plier of high complications, which led
him to the development of Harry Win
Winston’s Opus 12. Now he presents the
first timepiece to emerge from his epon
eponymous boutique brand: Complication
One. This wristwatch housed in a 44 by
11.2 mm case comes in five variations:
white gold, rose gold, yellow gold, plati
platinum, and black ADLC-coated titanium.
The dial is created in either black onyx
or chalcendony depending on the case
metal. And what is on that dial is noth
nothworking less than intriguing when seen work
ing as a whole. The hours are displayed
on a gold-encircled sapphire crystal disc
located at 8 o’clock, while a display of
decimal minutes is just across the dial at
4 o’clock on a similar disc. Between the
two displays a visible escape wheel –
which looks nothing like a conventional
escape wheel – seems quite discon
discon-
nected from the rest of the movement
hidden below the dial. The main disc at
12 o’clock displays the seconds (obviously emphasizing precision) and day/
night underneath that sapphire crystal
disc. A power reserve indicator can be
found on the back to display the state of
2.2, F43
the 70-hour power reserve.
Complication One, Emmanuel Bouchet.
B A S E LW O R L D H A L L 1 . 1 / D 5 5
Adhaesio
Dual timer with date
Visit us at Hall2.0, StandA45
WATCHES 17
DA I LY N E W S
“A SOURCE OF
GREAT PRIDE”
R2 TR ADE KNOWN FOR
HIGH-QUALITY WATCHES
R AY M O N D W E I L’ S S U C C E S S
I S B U I LT O N I T S S T R E N G T H S
C O M PA N Y O F F E R S N O TA B L E
T ECHNICAL SUPPOR T
Interview by William George Shuster
by William George Shuster
I
n 2014, Elie Bernheim, the
founder’s grandson, became
CEO of Raymond Weil, the family-owned Swiss luxury watch
brand. Here, he discusses his
goals, music-based marketing, and a
special tribute.
BWDN: As Ramond Weil’s new CEO,
what are your plans?
Elie Bernheim: Taking the reins of the
family company is a great source of
honour and pride for me, as the third
generation to head Raymond Weil. The
relationships my grandfather and father
built are the basis of our success. For
me, it’s important to preserve our family values, and that new collections and
product developments follow what
they initiated.
Our strength lies in what we are: a
recognised name worldwide; clearlydefined positioning; and elegant,
affordable products. We’ll focus our
efforts where we’re strong, further
develop key markets, and continue
enhancing our music marketing strategy with various partnerships.
The brand is the new official timepiece of
the Prudential Center (Newark, New Jersey), its first such North American sponsorship. What drove this partnership?
Music is part of our family’s culture and
the backbone of our marketing message.
Now, we want to be even stronger in our
main markets, and are partnering with
prestigious venues dedicated to music,
like The Prudential Center, a key U.S.
venue for music lovers.
And what is ‘Raymond Weil Music
Day’ (2014)?
The brand is inspired by music and has
long been involved with the music
industry. So, to support the annual
World Music Day (June 21st), we held
Elie Bernheim,
CEO of Raymond Weil.
the first Raymond Weil Music Day and
offered tickets to major musical events
worldwide. We’re now planning 2015’s
‘Day’.
Tell us about the recent Instagram contest ‘to capture a music moment’, please.
As a brand highly active on social-media
platforms and a watch industry pioneer
in new communication channels,
Raymond Weil has a thriving Instagram
account. Instagram has over 100 million
users sharing 40 million photos a day, so
it’s natural to use it for our annual photo
contest. The #RWInstaMusic challenge
had more than 500 entries worldwide,
valuable user-generated content and
massive media exposure.
What are your big Baselworld debuts?
We have a firework of new creations
with our brand’s essence: fine Swiss
watchmaking with music-inspired flair.
The highlight is our nabucco Cello
Tourbillon. It’s a masterpiece, combining our creative expertise with cuttingedge excellence.
There’s also a very nice special edition for women in our toccata collection,
named for Nicola Benedetti, an internationally renowned young violinist, and
in line with our partnerships with great
music icons, a special nabucco model
dedicated to Gibson, the electric guitar
specialist.
A
leading distributor of fine watch
brands, R2 Trade has strong support – from design to technology,
product choices to sales tools – and a wide
product range. “We possess everything
we need to meet our partners’ most rigorous demands,” says a company spokesman.
Its markets include Austria, Croatia,
the Czech Republic, Jordania, Greece,
France, Poland, Slovenia, and Spain,
while it numbers the following brands in
its offering:
Albert Riele (1881) makes high-quality Swiss timepieces, including ladies’
and men’s watches and chronographs.
Designs combine tradition with a youthful vision. The creation of an Albert Riele
watch is a complex, systematic process,
with rigorous quality control. Designs
have understated extravagance and
exquisite detailing.
AM:PM is for the young in spirit,
with an eye for detail and design. It has
affordable fashion, quartz, and digital
watches in women’s, men’s and unisex
models. All have stainless-steel cases and
bracelets. Colour versions use IP (Ion
Plating) coating or durable synthetic
materials. Its four lines include one for
children and a digital one with sport functions, a touch screen model, and water
resistance (for some models) to 100
metres. Analogue models use Japanese or
Swiss quartz movements.
Aztorin, a sponsor of many renowned
sporting events, is for active lifestyles. It
uses sapphire glass and high-quality Japanese quartz movements; selected models
have IP coating.
There are men’s, sports, and quartz
watches, and chronos in four lines: Casual
– with stylish designs and colour schemes;
Classic – a hint of extravagance, with
leather straps or steel bracelets; Sport –
attractive sports designs with rubber
strap or steel bracelet, and water-resistant
to 100 metres; and Sport Limited – individually numbered editions, with titanium case and bracelet, an extra strap or
bracelet, and special case with certificate.
Bergstern watches are created for
achievers. All are Swiss-Made, from initial
design, through technologically advanced
production processes to quality control.
There are classic, sports and decorative
READY, SET, GO
E T E R N A’ S F I R S T I N - H O U S E C H R O N O G R A P H
by Elizabeth Doerr
There’s also a very special limited edition, isn’t there?
To honour my grandfather and his legacy,
we made the Tribute to Mr Raymond
Weil timepiece. It is a 44-millimetre
COSC-certified chronometer in 18K rose
gold. It’s limited to 100 and I proudly
own number 1! Making it unique is my
grandfather’s handwritten signature on
the dial. We’ll never again have a watch
1.0, C35
with this detail.
M
ost watch fans
remember the
Eterna Matic
from 1948, a lower-friction
rotor system that prided
itself on being the first to
use ball bearings. The use
of ball bearings means that
no lubrication is necessary at
those bearing points, which is a
great advantage to precision and longevity. In fact, Eterna is actually famous
for having historically been the brand to
come up with the idea of using ball bearings in watchmaking (hence the five little balls forming the brand’s logo). In
2009, Eterna announced a re-engineered
version of this called the Spherodrive,
which also includes ball bearings for the
spring barrel.
Here at Baselworld, Eterna is debuting its Spherodrive in the brand’s first
manufacture chronograph, which emerges from the newly separated E.M.C.
(Eterna Movement Company). This
strategic move, too, is a play on Eterna’s
past when the watch brand and the
movement manufacture were two separate companies. “It’s all about going back
to basics,” says Eterna’s new CEO
Robert Dreyfuss. “We dig into the
brand’s original DNA, playing on its
innovative past, iconic products, movement manufacturing brilliance, and finally executing the basic tasks really well. It
is not about reinventing the wheel. This
brand has a history and heritage.”
Royal KonTiki
Chronograph GMT,
Eterna.
Premiere, Albert Riele.
ladies’ watches, all reasonably priced
and stylishly designed. Cases are stainless steel or titanium, with reinforced
mineral or sapphire glass. IP and electroplating ensure high scratch resistance. Classic and decorative models are
water resistant to 30 or 50 metres, and
sports models to 100.
Elixa blends modern design and fashion trends in ladies, fashion, and quartz
watches. Its watches use Japanese quartz
movements, have colour plating, and
straps of high-quality steel, leather or satin.
Its four collections are: Ceramica, the
sophisticated flagship line, which has
high-tech or steel-coloured coated ceramics. The Beauty line offers chic casual
watches. The Enjoy series is based on
men’s watches, but softened by in-laid
gems, satin straps, and smart colours. The
Finesse uses titanium, minimalist design
and subdued colours. Elixa’s ‘E’ logo
1.1, A87
decorates its strap.
READY FOR
TAKEOFF
C. H. W O L F PR E SEN T S
A P I L O T ’ S W AT C H W I T H
A SECOND T IME ZONE
by Sabine Zwet tler
T
What is now launching is the automatic
Calibre 3927A, a flyback chronograph
movement combined with a 24-hour
(second time zone) indication and date
based on Calibre 39, which has an inherently modular design so as to allow more
or less complication and manual versus
automatic winding as needed and wanted. In fact, there are 88 possible constellations of this movement.
Calibre 3927A is now making its
debut in the Royal KonTiki Chronograph, a very masculine 45-mm-diameter
timepiece. The case is crafted in stainless steel, while the metal bracelet it
comes on has middle links that have
been PVD-coated black for great contrast
and a sporty, contemporary look. The
bezel, crown guard, and chronograph
pushers are also coated with black PVD:
The next thing that the observer might
focus on is the attractive blue, white, and
5.0, A01
red colouring of the dial.
he name says it all: the Flymatic
Pioneer Chrono from this
Glashütte-based watch brand not
only displays the time and date at the current location, but also includes a chronograph movement. Despite the numerous
functions, the dial doesn’t look overcrowded. The blackened, electroplated dial is
clearly and comprehensibly designed in
pilot’s-watch style and equipped with a
rotatable ring of city names. The Arabic
numerals at 2, 4, 8 and 10 o’clock are
uncommonly large, as are the hour hand
and the minute hand. White luminous
material coats both hands, the minute
scale and the indices. Up to 30 minutes
can be tallied by a totaliser at 12 o’clock
and up to twelve hours by its counterpart
at 6 o’clock.
The 45-millimetre case houses an
automatic movement that amasses a power reserve of up to 48 hours in duration. A
special Trieste wristband and an onionshaped crown allude
to the tradition of
the pilot’s watch.
2.0, B15
Flymatic
Pioneer Chrono,
C. H. Wolf.
Madison Eight-Days
Eterna Calibre 3510
When the tradition and innovation of the finest watchmakers’
crafts-manship meet, a timepiece like the Madison Eight-Days is
born. Behind its striking exterior is the most advanced technology
of the watchmaker’s art. With two ball bearing-mounted spring
barrels, the Eterna Calibre 3510 hand-winding movement with
Spherodrive technology ensures that the watch keeps perfect time
for a full eight days.
eterna.com
Hall 5.0, Booth A01
Rodania Mystery collection · davos model · Ceramic with Stainless steel 316l · diamonds · Sapphire crystal · Butterfly buckle with two side pushers
ladies’ watch: ref. 25099.45
www.rodania.com ·
facebook.com/RodaniaWatches
Hall 1.2 Stand B03
WATCHES 21
DA I LY N E W S
POISED FOR GROWTH
AND INNOVATION
C U T T I N G - E D G E T E C H N O L O G Y AT C A S I O
T
terrestrial radio wave signals. At the same
time, we experienced the MTGS1000BTS, which features an IP finish
on the metal case and bracelet. Models
printed with camouflage all over the resin bezel and band are also popular with
the younger audience. In the future, we
will continue to introduce new, attractive
designs for a young audience, new editions of high-priced products and watches with improved performance.
his year, Casio and its
compendium of brands is
fully charged and ready to
unveil new collections
and new directions. Yuichi
Masuda, Managing Director Research &
Development, shares insights.
BWDN: The new Edifice EQB-510 can
communicate with smartphones via
Bluetooth. Will there be other editions to
the line?
Yuichi Masuda: Apart from the EQB-510,
our smartphone link line includes the
EQB-500, which was launched last year,
and the ECB-500, which is a digital/analogue combi model that will be launched
this spring. EQB-500 is the first edition
from the smartphone collection with its
bold 3D face and simple world-time setting via smartphone. We also have highly
functional sporty chronograph lines, with
functions such as compass and illuminator, which are different to the normal
chronograph models.
The Pro Trek series is geared to outdoor
fans. What are the latest features of the
newest models?
The new Pro Trek which we are presenting at Baselworld is the PRW-3500. It has
NEWS
G-Shock GPW-1000-1A, Casio.
Triple Sensor Version 3, which is quicker,
lasts longer and is more precise when
measuring natural conditions, such as
direction, altitude, temperature and
pressure. It is also water-resistant up to
20 bar and is a perfect outdoor accessory,
whether on mountains or at sea.
The G-Shock is an icon. What can visitors expect for 2015?
We have introduced the Hybrid function
GPW-1000, which receives both GPS and
And for the Baby-G?
2014 was the 20th anniversary of the
Baby-G and we carried out re-branding
activities by focusing on street fashion. In
line with the revival of 90s fashion and
street fashion, we have expanded our
business, especially in Asian countries. We
understand that the Baby-G is not just a
fashion watch, but is also the only brand
to introduce designs and sporty functions
which meet every consumer’s lifestyle.
What are your strongest markets and
where is there is still potential to grow?
We are interested in rapidly emerging
markets such as BRIC (Brazil, Russia,
India, China) and VISTA (Vietnam, Indonesia, South Africa, Turkey, Argentina).
We would like to develop these attractive
SPEED RECORD
C I T I Z E N ’ S E C O - D R I V E S AT E L L I T E W AV E F 9 0 0
H A S T H E W O R L D ’ S FA S T E S T S I G N A L R E C E P T I O N
C
itizen is presenting its new EcoDrive Satellite Wave F900. The
multi-functional GPS satellitesynchronised watch combines speed
with the brand’s cutting-edge technologies. In 2011, Citizen debuted its EcoDrive Satellite Wave, the world’s first
watch to sync with GPS satellites to
show accurate time anywhere on earth.
Since then, it has technically improved
each addition to the series.
This newest model’s enhanced
functions include a highly accurate
Chrono Bike Limited Edition, Festina.
FESTINA – The Limited Edition
Chrono Bike is inspired by the world of
cycling, and in particular the Tour de
France. The bracelet is designed to
resemble a bicycle chain. The
44.50-millimetre case is 316L stainless
steel with a black-and-brown IP combination finish. The bracelet is also finished with two-tone black and brown
IP plating. The dial is covered by a
three-layer anti-reflection sapphire
crystal. It is presented in a specially
designed gift box. It is water-resistant
1.2, D31
to 100 metres. (cb)
Eco-Drive Satellite Wave F900, Citizen.
Yuichi Masuda, Managing Director Research & Development.
markets through our wide coverage of
products from the basic to middle-price
range, which is one of our strengths.
Where do you see the greatest challenges
for the industry in 2015?
We are keeping an eye on ‘smart watches’, which are being launched by smartphone and electronics manufacturers. We
at Casio will also try to develop the
smartwatch market with our original
technologies, sophisticated watch
designs and long solar-powered battery
life. Focusing on designs and functions,
such as solar power, to keep the quality of
a timepiece, we will continue to develop
the Edifice EQB series.
What do you like best about Baselworld?
The American and European markets are
very attractive for us. We believe that we
can establish our position as a genuine
timepiece manufacturer if we are valued
by these markets and consumers. In
order to make sure this is the case, we
have to ensure a better understanding of
Casio by media and retailers in those
areas, and Baselworld is the best opportu1.2, B13
nity for us to do this.
TWO WATCHES
JOIN THE LINE
P R O S P E X M A R I N E M A S T E R C E L E B R AT E S
5 0 Y E A R S O F S E I K O D I V E R W AT C H E S
chronograph and simultaneous dualtime display of time in any two world
time zones. It also switches to main and
local time instantly.
The timepiece is the world’s thinnest light-powered GPS satellite-synchronised watch. It has the fastest satellite time signal reception, as little as
three seconds, and gets positioning data
from GPS satellites in only 30 seconds.
A high-speed twin-coil motor, newly
designed for multi-functional watches,
spins hands fast in normal and reverse
rotations to quickly correct time
between time zones. The lightweight
case and band are made of Super Titanium. This is Citizen’s surface-hardening Duratect, applied to solid
titanium to make the watch
scratch-resistant and preserve its finish. Other features are hollowed push
buttons (like the fuselage
of GPS satellites) at 2 and
4 o’clock and a light-level
indicator of how much
electricity from light
is absorbed by the
dial. The watch is
accurate to ±five
seconds per month.
1.1, E 91
I
n 1965, Seiko made its first diver’s
watch. 50 years later, its feats in the
field include the first use of a titanium case for a diver’s watch, invention
of the accordion-style strap, and the
two-layer case. Even the world’s ISO
6425 standard for diver’s watches is
based on Seiko’s.
Two additions in the Prospex
Marinemaster series continue Seiko’s
achievements.
The Marinemaster Professional
1000m Diver’s, like its 1975
predecessor, has a two-layer case construction.
Due to inner case
strength, the specially
designed
L-shaped gasket
and screw-down
glass fixing ring, it
is impermeable to
helium and wearable
for saturation diving to
great depths. Ceramic on
the outer shell enhances
shock resistance and prevents
unintended rotation of the
bezel. The strap is extra-strong
silicone for greater durability.
The Marinemaster Professional 1000m
Hi-Beat 36000 Limited Edition (700
numbered pieces) has a design echoing
Seiko’s first hi-beat diver’s watch in the
1960s, but its specifications are state of
the art. A one-piece titanium case,
L-shaped gasket and other features
make it resistant to helium and suitable
for saturation diving. The rotating bezel
is fixed to the case with four screws at
12 o’clock and 6 o’clock. The calibre
beats at 36,000 vibrations per hour and
has a 55-hour power reserve.
Each watch has a titanium bracelet with
extender and extrastrong
silicone
strap.
Both watches’
mechanical calibres are perfectly
adapted for diving.
Hands and markers
wear a new version
of Seiko’s Lumibrite,
which glows 60 percent
1.1, D79
longer.
Seiko’s Prospex Marinemaster
Professional 1000m Diver’s.
22 WATCHES
DA I LY N E W S
THE FLAIR OF
CHAMPS ELYSÉES
STYLISH
SIMPLICITY
N E W J E W E L L E D L A D I E S L U X U R Y W AT C H E S F R O M E LY S I A N F I E L D S
J A C O B J E N S E N S T AY S
TRUE TO ITS ROOTS
by Elizabeth Doerr
by sabine Zwet tler
T
he watch industry welcomes a new brand making its debut here at
Baselworld:
Champs
Elysées. This new Neuchâtel-based brand dedicated solely to
women and jewelled timepieces is the
brainchild of Keyvan Lamé, President of
a 22-year-old Middle Eastern distribution company for high-end timepieces
and jewellery. He embarked upon the
path toward creating a high-quality new
nearly five years ago after deciding that
the kind of watches he desired for his
clients just didn’t exist on the market.
So he set to work to create his vision,
a brand showcasing modern jewellery
watches called Champs Elysées. Lamé
wanted this name above all for his new
brand as it reminded him of the frequent
trips to Paris he took with his parents in
the 1970s. The name is inspirational to
him and instantly understandable to others. Regardless of language or nationality,
the pronunciation remains the same.
The debut collection launching at
Baselworld comprises three lines, all for
women, all housed in the best quality
stainless steel or gold, and all with some
degree of jewel setting.
Estelle’s name (“star”) and design
evoke Paris’ Place de l’Etoile, which was
renamed Place Charles de Gaulle in
1970. It is the famous meeting point of
twelve avenues surrounding the Arc de
Triomphe that caps the Champs
Elysées. The flagship Estelle constellation is housed in a 36 mm yellow gold
case set with 56 yellow and red sapphires of varying geometric cuts woven
between 28 baguette-cut diamonds.
The bezel is set with eight yellow sapphires, while eight baguette-cut diamonds make for dial markers, while one
châton-set brilliant-cut diamond replaces the 6 o’clock marker. The dial comprises shimmering mother-of-pearl and
Rive Blanche, Champs Elysées.
an inner circle consisting of four rows of
a total of 101 brilliant-cut diamonds.
The red alligator-skin strap’s clasp is
embellished by yet another 53 diamonds. Conceived as a timepiece that
can be worn both day and night, the
Estelle line also contains the brand’s
entry-level timepiece housed in a stain-
less steel case with twelve diamonds on
the bezel as well as the characteristic
diamond at 6 o’clock on the dial where a
date might usually be.
The subtle, diamond-studded
reflections of the Rive Blanche reinterpret the Seine as it is seen from the
Alexandre III bridge thanks to its interplay of diamonds and waves of gold and
mother-of-pearl. This is primarily
achieved through the light of 291 round
diamonds snow set into an 18-karat yellow gold case measuring 38.6 by 33.65
mm. The dial, too, shines with waves of
mother-of-pearl and 122 snow set diamonds.
The Opéra Royal, named after one
of Paris’ famed opera houses, is a modern rendition of the cocktail watch. It is
housed within a graphic set of concentric circles crafted in high-quality stainless steel measuring 40 by 35 mm. Snow
set diamonds once again take center
stage, with 420 of them pooling their
sparkle. The mother-of-pearl dial boasts
12 diamonds as hour markers, while the
clasp is set with another 53. The time is
set using a push piece on the back of the
case that connects to the precision
Swiss quartz movement found within.
Seventy percent of the watches
made by Champs Elysées are outfitted
with quartz movements, mainly for their
versatility in allowing creative design.
All of the watches are made in Switzer1.1, A24
land.
A
watch design realised without
any distraction, the new Curve
series from Jacob Jensen once
again embodies the brand’s signature
language, combining clean lines with
technical precision. This watch, created
under the direction of chief designer
Timothy Jacob Jensen, the son of the
company’s founder Jacob Jensen, is distinguished by a clear, bold design with a
single strap running seamlessly through
the case. There are no numerals or indices on the dial, the design simply features a rotating disc, which indicates the
minutes while a single hand shows the
hours. A mineral crystal glass provides a
subtle dome over the watch face. To
ensure accuracy, the Curve is driven by
a high-quality quartz movement. The
genuine leather strap is available in a
range of colours, from rich burgundy red
to delicate ivory, as well as black, white,
grey and camel. The watch is also avail2.0, A71
able with a gold PVD case.
THE FINE AESTHETICS
OF MECHANICS
C L O C K M A N U FA C T U R E M AT T H I A S N A E S C H K E
IN T RODUCES ROSE GOLD ACCEN T S
by Sabine Zwet tler
Sebastian
Naeschke.
Estelle, Champs
Elysées.
F
Parisian chic and flair at Baselworld:
the new brand Champs Elysées debuts in 2015.
Curve, Jacob Jensen.
or more than three decades the
brand name of Matthias Naeschke
has stood for exclusivity and the
highest quality craftsmanship of clocks,
manufactured in small quantities or as
unique stand-alone pieces.
At this year’s Baselworld the German clock manufacture is introducing
radiant rose gold accents with a newly
created table clock in the shape of the
classic 8-day. The NT 8 catches the eye
of the viewer in addition to its exceptional colour – incidentally the first
table clock from the German clockmakers in rose gold – but also due to numerous technical refinements and our artisan expertise. Here, especially note the
small distance of the wheels between
the main plates of just 21 mm. Thus,
the NT 8 is one of the slimmest skeleton clocks ever made. This became possible by an ingenious three-piece barrel
structure in which a very small mainspring is inserted directly into a section
of the large main wheel. Looking at the
movement from the side, it would be
easy to believe there is no barrel needed
in this movement.
The escapement of the new movement is dominated by a large escape
wheel and circular ruby pallets. Delicate flame-blued hands, sawn and polished by hand, glide over a chapter ring
with the finest hand engravings made
of pure sterling silver. Two precision
ball bearings and four large ruby jewels
on the gear train are in charge for optimum power transmission and friction
reduction. A 5-rod compensation pendulum quietly swings, beating halfseconds, nicely framed behind the
2.0, C15
movement.
Table Clock, Matthias Naeschke.
For men who don’t
need GPS
to know where they stand.
Saxon One
It’s our rough edges that testify real character. The Saxon One
with its edgy, timeless design lends this conviction a new form: elegant, dynamic, distinctive.
And created with exactly that perfection which has made
the predicate “Made in Glashüe” into a world-famous promise of quality.
Saxon One LS · sweep minute stop chronograph · 6422-01
MADE FORTHOSEWHODO
Please visit us at
Hall 1.1 · Stand D87
www.tutima.com
TUTIMA UHRENFABRIK GMBH NDL. GLASHÜTTE
01768 Glashütte/Sa. · Germany · Tel. +49 35053 320 20 · [email protected]
The Invicta Bolt Zeus Reserve
Jason Taylor . Limited Edition
invictawatch.com
HALL 1.2 . BOOTHS E53 & E60
H A L L 1-1, B O O T H D59
FE N D I .CO M / T I M E PI E C E S
WATCHES 27
DA I LY N E W S
SUPER SMART
G U E S S A N D G C P R E S E N T S M A R T A N D FA S H I O N - F O R W A R D W AT C H E S
Interview by Carol Besler
C
indy Livingston is President and CEO of Sequel
AG, whose brands, Guess
and Gc, are distributed in
over 70 countries around
the world. Sequel is also a supporter of
many philanthropic causes, including
several children’s charities.
BWDN: Guess introduced a smartwatch this year, the Guess Connect.
Can you tell us something about the
watch and its development? Have you
had a good response so far?
Cindy Livingston: Guess Watches
announced the launch of its new wearable tech timepiece, Guess Connect, in
January. We have partnered with Martian Watches, an award-winning, California-based developer of fashionable
smart watches. It is a multi-functional
line for men and women and incorporates Martian’s Dual Mode functionality, simultaneously offering voice command functions, using Bluetooth LE to
provide hands-free and eyes-free notifications to the wrist from thousands of
apps and programmes.
The Guess Connect smartwatch represents one of the first true marriages of a
fashion watch powerhouse and a wireless technology innovator. We are
thrilled to move in this direction with
our unique “Fashion Meets Lifestyle
Functionality” executed in a style called
Rigor. The early reaction to it from both
fashion and tech media has been positive and encouraging. We won the CES
2015 Innovation Award.
“For ladies, the accent
at Gc is on making a
dynamic fashion statement, particularly with
our Swiss Movement
line, with a strong
fashionable edge at a
truly affordable price.”
Cindy Livingston,
Sequel AG
Cindy Livingston, President
and CEO of Sequel AG.
What else is new at Guess?
2015 marks the year of point of difference for Guess and we are focusing on
the various elements that make the
Guess brand unique. Blue is the new
black for Guess. Just like denim, the colour blue is forever fashionable. The new
Blue Print of bold blue wrist accessories
are unlike any we have done before. The
collection is both fashion- forward and
engineered using a unique blue tone that
has been developed exclusively for the
brand – a colour that makes each Guess
watch product a truly original piece.
Expanding upon our exclusive Blue-Tone,
the collection introduces both darker and
lighter combinations across all categories,
including blue paired with silver, gold,
rose gold and gunmetal.
What are the highlights of the Gc line
this season?
In our Men’s Gc Swiss-Made line, we’re
introducing a combination of rose-gold
PVD (which is iconic to our brand)
paired with midnight blue, a combination found in our Gc-3 Valjoux limited
edition of 100 numbered pieces. For
ladies, the accent is on making a dynamic
fashion statement, particularly with our
Swiss Movement line, with a strong fashionable edge at a truly affordable price. It
includes a Python print in turquoise colouring with a python-etched mother-ofpearl dial, along with a metallic-gold
python strap in a gold PVD case. The
men’s Gc Bold collection features a new
design in rose-gold PVD and uses midnight-blue ceramic on the bezel and
centre bracelet link with a matching dial.
Do you have any new watches to support your philanthropic efforts?
To support our Time to Give philanthropic efforts for 2015, we have
designed a timepiece that embraces our
blue debut. It is a ladies’ watch that
features denim-friendly fashion, with
glitz on the case and dial with a new
Guess logo treatment. The “Faces to
Watch – Time to Give” initiative was
founded in 2006 to help improve the
health, welfare and educational needs of
children around the globe. Since its
inception, Guess Watches and its worldwide partners have raised more than $6
million to support twelve charities
1.2, A41
around the world.
A new diver’s watch is on display at Pequignet.
FRENCH DIVER
PEQ U I G NE T ’S C A L IB R E R OYA L E D I V E S D O W N D E E P
by Elizabeth Doerr
P
equignet is a brand with a lot
more history than one might
guess. Founded in 1973 by Emile
Pequignet on the French side of the Jura
in Morteau, the early incarnation of the
eponymous brand focused on timepieces for the feminine wrist. Upon retiring
in 2004, Pequignet sold the company to
Didier Leibundgut, previously of
Zenith, who promptly began work on an
in-house calibre. By 2006, the workshop
was ready and the small brand’s rebirth
went into obvious effect with the advent
of the Calibre Royal, entirely designed,
assembled, prototyped, and tested at
Pequignet’s own premises. The brand
was again sold in 2012 and is now in the
hands of two investors intent on preserving its independence and French
identity.
The Calibre Royal, which required
eight patents, logically now powers all
of Pequignet’s timepieces. This year at
Baselworld, the brand introduces its
first diver’s watch: the Royale 300. A
diver with a great deal of obvious character and the ability to dive to 300
meters, the Royale 300 is housed in a 43
mm polished and satin-finished stainless steel case topped by a unidirectionally rotating bezel made of rubbermoulded Vulcamix in a choice of orange,
black, or blue with a Super-Luminova
reference marker at 12 o’clock. This is
complemented by luminous hands
against a black, multilevel dial and a
rubber strap in the same colour as the
bezel. Naturally, the characteristic
fleur-de-lys symbol embellishes both
Palace, 5A
the crown and the strap.
Pequignet, Royale 300.
AN HOMAGE TO THE ST. GOTTHARD PASS
CHARMEX OF SWIT ZERL AND DEBU T S L A TREMOL A
F
or centuries the St. Gotthard
pass in Switzerland was the
main route from central Europe
into Italy. Originally a mere mule track,
this pass was widened to allow for a
regular stage coach service as depicted
in a 1873 painting of Roland Koller’s.
In the early 20th century the well over
a dozen hairpin bends were paved with
cobblestones and the road was henceforth known as La Tremoly – the
“trembling one”. Whether this refers
to the shaking of the vehicles on the
cobblestones or rather the mental
state of the drivers is no longer known.
The new automatic model La Tremola
was created as an homage to the original cobblestone road which still exists
today. The paved structure of the dial
resembles the original cobblestone and
the classical case with its Art-Décolike curvature and engraving is reminiscent of the early 20th century. The
watch features the ETA Calibre 2824
which ticks inside a 40-mm stainless
steel or IP-case. Its fine decorations
can be seen through the pane of sapphire in the case back. The timepiece
is manufactured in a limited edition of
400 pieces only and available in the
three dial colours silver, black and
2.0, C41
tobacco.
La Tremola, Charmex of Switzerland.
28 WATCHES
DA I LY N E W S
Vienna, Rodania.
REFLECTING FUNDAMENTAL
VALUES
MORI T Z GROSSMANN SHOWS I T S FINE GL ASHÜ T T E T IMEPIECES FOR
T H E F I R S T T I M E AT B A S E L W O R L D
Interview by Iris Wimmer -Olbort
P
remiere in Basel: Christine
Hutter, CEO of the young
Moritz
Grossmann
Glashütte brand, talks about
new constructions built
upon a grand history
BWDN: Moritz Grossmann is a young
company with a name referring to one
of Glashütte’s most ingenious watchmakers. How does his spirit live on in
your brand’s current collection?
Christine Hutter: Moritz Grossmann’s
credo remains valid for us today: “Construct a simple but mechanically perfect
watch.” Rather than copying historical
calibres, we give a 21st-century interpretation to great solutions from the
past. We ask ourselves, “If Moritz Grossmann were alive, how would he engineer
a watch? Would he manufacture their
hands in-house?” He was renowned for
the production of the finest hands, so
it’s near and dear to our hearts that we
produce our own hands on our premises.
We do everything we can to uphold
Moritz Grossmann’s philosophy.
How do you achieve the goal of constructing simple but mechanically perfect watches?
By continually seeking new solutions
and constructively questioning all existing constructions. We look ahead and
simultaneously reflect on the fundamental values of a watch, i.e., its essential purpose as a precise instrument.
The consequences are the construction
and installation of special efficient com-
Christine Hutter,
CEO of Moritz
Grossmann.
ELEGANCE AND MINAMALISM
RODA NIA USE S CER A MIC, CR Y S TA L S, GUIL LO CHÉ
A ND MORE T O A NIM AT E I T S NE W MODEL S FOR BO T H
WOMEN A ND MEN
R
ponents, for example, a stop-seconds
function for the tourbillon with the aid
of a fine hair brush.
Are similarly inventive ideas built into
the new items you’re showing at Baselworld?
We designed a totally newly conceived
movement, Calibre 102.0, which is
smaller and significantly slimmer than
our previous movements. It’s distinguished by several innovations. Because
of its smaller architecture, we devised a
totally new arrangement for the geartrain. The minute-wheel is shifted laterally so it’s readily visible and doesn’t
interfere with the balance. The barrel,
which is borne on both ends of its
arbour, the escapement, and the Grossmann-style fine adjustment with a regulator arm have all undergone corre-
sponding modifications. This calibre
enables us to manifest a minimalist and
elegant design vocabulary in our new
men’s watch. And our new ladies’ watch
proves that radiant brilliant-cut diamonds can harmonize perfectly with the
new calibre’s technical brilliance.
Your brand is exhibiting at Baselworld
for the first time this year. How important is this debut?
It’s a very important step and a tremendous challenge. The world’s largest watch
and jewellery show is the ideal venue to
make our manufacture and the Moritz
Grossmann brand visible for customers,
dealers and the press. We want to find out
how we’re perceived on the market, and
we’re curious to learn how people respond
to us. This will provide us with inspiraPalace, 6E
tions for the future.
EMBR ACING FASHION
odania, a Swiss-Made watch
brand founded 85 years ago, is
presenting several new collections for both women and men within
the elegant Chic Collection, containing
Ronda Swiss quartz movements.
Calgary headlines the ladies’ models,
with an elegant arc of Swarovski crystals
that frame the dial at top and bottom,
where the case meets the bracelet. The
26.5 mm case is available in stainless
steel, ionized rose gold or a combination
of both in a two-tone model. It is water
resistant to 30 metres.
The men’s Montreal model positions
a round dial within a cushion-shaped case
that is water resistant to 50 metres. The
elegant, minimalist dial is decorated in a
subtle, cross-ruled guilloché pattern in
either silver or midnight blue. Finishing
touches include lacquered hands, a date
window at 3 o’clock and two Arabic
numerals, at 12 and 6.
The Mystery collection is also
infused with a minimalist aesthetic. The
watch is made of scratch-resistant ceramic, with a slim case, glossy articulated
bracelet links and a butterfly buckle.
There are both men’s and ladies’ models.
Black Vienna for men has fine silver
coloured hands and indexes on a dial that
is finished a mirror-like sheen. The 39
mm watch is water resistant to 30 metres.
The ladies’ white Vienna is an eyecatcher, with its unadorned simplicity.
The minimalist dial features primarily
rose gold hands and indexes. It is otherwise adorned with nothing but the brand
name. The case is 30 mm in diameter.
Rodania is a Swiss brand, established in 1930 in the village of Lengnau
in the canton of Bern. However, it has a
dual nationality. In the 1950s, Rodania
established an office in Brussels, Belgium, to handle worldwide distribution.
Under manager Manfred Aebi, the subsidiary quickly prospered, thanks to his
innovative ideas, including the marketing of Rodania in the sports sector. In
1974, Aebi took over the company, and
while the production of watches
remained in Switzerland, the company
headquarters was relocated to the Brussels area. The Aebi family ran the company until 2007, when it was sold to a
Belgian group of investors who renamed
the company Montebi. Today, Montebi
distributes Rodania worldwide in 2,220
points of sale in more than 50 countries,
including Belgium, Luxemburg, France,
Russia, Canada, China and Southeast
1.2, B03
Asia.
3 QUE S T IONS, 3 ANSWERS
T O Y W AT C H C A P T U R E S T R E N D S
A
lthough launched in 2006, ToyWatch is now under all new ownership and management and is
making changes in product and direction
for global growth. The Italian born and
based ToyWatch is celebrating 2015 in
new style, under new ownership and
with new product and distribution.
Exhibiting in Hall 1.2, the brand embraces its Italian roots and exemplifies them
in the new watches that are bold and
daring.
The affordable timepieces feature
everything from high-function chronographs to natural-stone-dialed beauties
and a smooth-to-the-touch cases and
bracelets. The watches are characterized
by bold colours and striking patterns, as
well as by chronograph functions and
added features. Designed in Italy according to the strict fashion codes, ToyWatches are also assembled in Italy and
house either Swiss or Japanese movements (depending on the model).
“The concept for ToyWatch is to be
fashion-forward and always on the cutting edge of trends and designs,” says
Agostino Magni, CEO of ToyWatch globally. “We are a leader, not a follower, and
we are designed for the self-confident
individual who wants to make his or her
own statement.” Magni says the brand is
not only under new ownership and leadership, but also has new distribution
channels and marketing direction.
Key collection highlights being
shown at Baselworld now include the
Velvety line of chronographs and threehands with date in a super-supple feel,
thanks to a rubberized finish on case and
bracelet. Housing Japanese movements,
some piece also sport Swarovski crystal
adornments.
Another top line is the Maya line,
which runs the gamut from a colourful
woven strap patterned series, to the
series of three-hands with natural gemstone dials of jasper, lapis lazuli and
malachite, and to the top-of-the-line
Maya Chrono collection with tachymeter
bezels and sporty chic appeal. Similarly,
the Vintage collection – inspired by the
past – features watches equipped with
1.2, D03
NATO style straps.
“Expecting the unexpected”
WHAT ROLE DOES BASELWORLD PLAY FOR YOUR COMPANY?
With the fast pace of operating our boutiques, our time is often limited. Baselworld
provides an effective venue to meet with our business partners in one setting. We
review novelties, discuss marketing and business strategies and place product buy-ins
that completes our inventories for the majority of the business year.
WHAT ARE YOU MOST EAGERLY LOOKING FORWARD TO?
Personally handling the new, exciting and innovative timepieces, gems and jewellery
that we must have in our boutiques. We also look forward to the creative and sometimes over-the-top display of new offerings by
the exhibitors. Then there are the after hours
brand parties!
ARE YOU LOOKING FOR SOMETHING
IN PARTICULAR?
We are constantly building. We have a wish list
ranging from jewellery to new timepieces. But
beyond the novelties we are looking for spark
and inspirations. We are constantly building and
growing our business. At Baselworld we come in
with the mindset of expecting the unexpected.
Maya Stone
dial watch,
ToyWatch.
Joel Tadeo, Marketing Director,
Bandiera Jewellers, Toronto, Ontario, Canada.
is a trademark owned by HACHETTE FILIPACCHI PRESSE SA, Paris, France.
ELLEgirl COLLECTION IS PART OF THE HOUSE OF
HALL OF SENSATIONS - BOOTH 1.2 D05
WWW.TOPBRANDSgROUP.COm
Hall 1.2
Stand E05
Produced and distributed exclusively by Nardelli Luxury SpA • liujoluxury.it
WE DIDN’T INTRODUCE THE TOURBILLON TO THE WORLD.
WE INTRODUCED THE WORLD TO THE TOURBILLON.
AMAZE WITH THE STUHRLING TOURBILLON. PERPLEXING AND INTRICATE IN DESIGN, IT PROVIDES A TRULY
MYSTIFYING EXPERIENCE. IT IS AN EXHIBIT OF BRILLIANT CRAFTSMANSHIP AND FINE ENGINEERING. A WATCH
REVERED BY ALL AND RECOGNIZED AS A SYMBOL OF PRESTIGE. THIS IS NOT A TIMEPIECE THAT IS MERELY
ADDED TO A COLLECTION, IT IS ONE THAT DEFINES IT.
HALL 2.0 STAND A43
EVERYONEDESERVESLUXURY
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BASELWORLD 2015
32 WATCHES
DA I LY N E W S
“COLLECTORS TRUST OUR BRAND”
NEWS
CH R I S T I A N ZÖ R W EG, C O - F O U ND E R O F B U BE N &
ZÖ R W EG, SH A R E S C O M PA N Y A ND PR O D U C T NE W S
T
he Time Mover pieces of
Buben & Zörweg established a new luxury
standard for watch movers by combining stateof-the-art technology with the finest
material and sophisticated German
design. This year, the Austrian company is celebrating its tenth birthday.
BWDN: How would you describe the
brand’s environment?
Christian Zörweg: In the watch-winder
market we have made it as the benchmark, which we take as a great respon-
The Allure, Buben & Zörweg.
sibility to develop watch-winder technology further and further. A great deal
of the important collectors in the world
trust our brand. Collecting watches is
not an exercise limited to a time frame
of a few years or decades. Therefore,
your time-mover technology is engineered to last for 20 years and longer.
Not only that, it comes down to the
trust that the brand will also exist and
flourish for many decades. So if a service or a technical upgrade is needed, a
worldwide operating service team is still
there to assist our clients. We think that
a luxury brand is nothing but the trust of
its clients.
What technical and aesthetical features
set the products apart from others?
Buben & Zörweg is always a combination of design, German workmanship
and innovation. These three ingredients create a really outstanding and
often unique Buben & Zörweg masterpiece. Our design originates in modern
Art-Déco where material like precious
woods, fine leather and hand-polished
metals are blended to become a timeless object. Certainly, our design DNA
expresses German design with a
healthy shot of emotion, but always
keeping in mind that we are creating
masterpieces for decades. Our masterpieces must survive any trends in
design and materials.
Christian Zörweg
and Harald Buben,
founders of
Buben & Zörweg.
Are you planning any special events
and editions to celebrate your tenth
anniversary?
We have decided to focus on our 25th
anniversary. Every year is a special year
for us and we are as excited as our clients when we present our latest creations at Baselworld.
Buben & Zörweg also offers fine
clocks. What is new here?
The precious Allure Table Clock. A
generous use of glass provides interesting insights into the precise workings
of the inner mechanism. An integrated
LED lighting system turns the clock
into a real shining example of successful design. The ‘clock inside the clock’
is equally as unusual – a Time Mover
situated beneath the dial offers a safe
haven for the precious watch. Alternatively, a weather station can be installed
instead of the watch winder.
The brand has many boutiques all
over the world. Where are your main
markets and where do you still want to
grow?
Europe, Eastern Europe and central Asia
have always been our main markets.
Now we are very successful in China
and our boutique in Singapore is our
best sales point in the world. We are
focusing on South America and are
quite active in Africa in countries like
2.0, D61
Angola.
CLASSIC SWISS COMPLICATIONS
CANDINO – The 34-millimetre case of
the Candino Elegance D-Light is given
a pink-gold metallic finish. The bezel is
set with zircons in tapered sizes for
extra sparkle. The dial is mother-ofpearl. It contains the Swiss-Made Ronda quartz Calibre 762. The strap is
white satin to match the dial. The
watch is water-resistant to 50 metres.
1.2, D31
(cb)
MANJA Z DEBU T S FOUR ADDITIONS
by Sabine Zwet tler
M
anjaz, the prestigious Swiss
watchmaker known for high
quality ‘affordable luxury’
timepieces, is debuting four lines for
2015 at Baselworld. All are equipped
with sophisticated Swiss movements,
such as ETA or Soprod, and feature highquality parts like sapphire crystals on the
front and back. Home in the Jura Mountains, Manjaz is the brainchild of Dominik
Fluri, who lived in the second half of the
19th century. He had the dream of creat-
Manjaz is rooted in Swiss
watchmaking tradition.
ing a watch brand named Manjaz. Fullfilling the ambitions of both his grandfather,
Dominik, and his father, Albert, who had
introduced a first collection of pocket
watches, Hubert Fluri created a watch
trading business in the 1970s. Commercial ties with Japan, Hong Kong and
China, as well as Taiwan, Vietnam, Cambodia and Thailand were successfully
established. Today, Manjaz is one of the
Swiss brands with a high sales level in
China, with 500 retail outlets.
JAGUAR – The new men’s collection
from Jaguar has a distinctive sunray dial
in a choice of three colours. One option
has a stainless-steel case and black dial
and the other two have special finishes
in PVD bronze or rose gold. The dials
are chocolate brown or rose-gold coloured to match. The case is 44 millimetres wide, and it contains the SwissMade Ronda quartz Calibre 6004D.
Functions include a date window, hours
minutes and small seconds. It is waterresistant to 100 metres. (cb) 1.2, D31
GMT (left) and
Dev Open Heart, Manjaz.
The new addition to its Dev Series collection here at Baselworld is the Dev
Open Heart, with an opening in the dial
at 12 o’clock, revealing part of its calibre. A chapter ring and clearly defined
hour markers ensure legibility. The dial
comes in white, grey, anthracite or black,
with skeletonised sword-shaped hands
in steel, rose-gold PVD coating or blue,
and luminescent coating.
Measuring 41 mm in diameter, the
Dev One Open Heart is available in
steel or steel-and-rose-gold PVD and
offers a 40-hour power reserve.
Manjaz is also introducing its first
GMT watch. The elegant dial, in white
or black, has a guilloché centre and
Roman numerals, blending refinement
and technology. The GMT subdial is at
6 o’clock, clearly distinguishing local
and home time. The day/night disc and
a large date add a thoughtful finishing
touch. The 41-mm automatic watch,
featuring a Soprod calibre, is available in
stainless steel or bi-colour tones.
Manjaz’s new Sharplight Chronograph has a clear dial layout with at-aglance legibility for the three chronograph counters. Day and date windows
are at 3 o’clock, the hour counter at the
6, the minute counter at the 12, small
seconds at the 9, and the chronograph
seconds hand is placed in the centre.
Driven by the automatic calibre ETA
Valjoux 7750, it also offers a day-of-the1.2, E01
week and date indication.
KERN – Established in 1974, the family-owned watchmaker, now in its second
generation, specialises in high-quality
bejewelled timepieces. It uses specially
selected precious stones and diamonds,
high-quality Swiss movements and components to craft its exquisite timepieces. Its new watches for 2015 on showcase here at Baselworld include additions to its Harmony-Chaton and Petite
2.1, B71
collections. (wgs)
WATCHES 35
DA I LY N E W S
TEN NEW COLLECTIONS
FROM ICE-WATCH
I T S F R E S H ‘ FA C E ’ F O R 2 015 I S B E L G I A N W O R L D C U P
F O O T B A L L FA N A X E L L E D E S P I E G E L A E R E
FAST AND FURIOUS
F I Y TA D E B U T S I T S E X T R E M E WAT C H C O L L E C T I O N
Ice-Glam,
Ice-Watch.
Interview by Kenneth Ross
I
ce-Watch, based in Bastogne, Belgium, is a market leader in watches that sell in the price range of
50 to 99 euros. The colourful collections are designed in Belgium
and assembled in China using Japanese
movements made by Miyota, a subsidiary of Citizen. The company was founded in 2007 and offers nearly 50 collections of watches.
BWDN: It looks as if you are introducing a number of new collections this year?
Jean-Pierre Lutgen: We have taken the
best successes of 2014 and are working
on these. Gold touch, new materials,
variations of the Ice model (the soft
model made out of one single piece).
The Ice collection is actually overtaking the success of the Ice-Forever,
which has always been our bestseller.
Which of the new collections are you
introducing at Baselworld?
We are introducing our collections for
the first three quarters of 2015, which
is approximately ten new collections or
range extensions (Ice-Carbon, Ice-Skull,
Ice-Flower, Ice-Fly, Ice-Sporty, IceHappy, Ice-Heritage). We are also intro-
ducing a new variation of the Ice line
with graphics and another IceWatch with a new transparent silicone
band and carbon case. Moreover, we
disclose our new BMW Motorsport
range, a premium line with a half-leather
half-synthetic band and steel case.
Are there any plans to proceed with the
Ice-Swiss brand, whose concept was
introduced at Baselworld 2014?
The samples we got and the development at this stage do not meet our
expectations. The collection is still
under analysis. A key element of the
success of Ice-Watch was the launch of
a strong concept at the right time. The
Ice-Swiss is not ready for launch yet
and we do not want to jeopardise the
success.
Do you plan to open any more flagship
stores in 2015?
We do plan to open more mono-brand
stores. Asia is doing really well and the
strategy of some APAC (Asia-Pacific)
countries is indeed to open more IceWatch stores. Our growth in monobrand is exponential – 88 openings in
2014 and we expect no less in 2015.
Jean-Pierre
Lutgen, CEO.
Will you expand sales into any new
geographic areas this year? Which areas are the most promising for IceWatch sales?
Our models have always been international. We do not target one area in particular but try to have a target as wide as
possible. It happens sometimes, that
countries ask for limited editions specially designed for them, Japan, for
example. We also try to balance the
launch of models to be equitable
between men or women. In terms of
new markets, the United States remains
one of our objectives, and we expect to
penetrate the market with the BMW
Motorsport collection. We will continue
to support the growth in Japan, Australia, Korea, and Malaysia, as well as in the
Middle East. Otherwise, we mainly plan
to keep our actual markets as constant
as possible and we will work on tools and
support to help them all.
Do you have any plans to add to your
marketing partnerships, such as with
Pantone and BMW?
The BMW Motorsport partnership is really successful and we keep on developing
new models and intensify the communication. We have no plans yet to add any new
partnerships except our extensive collaboration with Swarovski. The Ice-Crystal
with its 600-plus free moving Swarovski
crystals launched late 2014 is a good example of this continuous partnership.
Are there any other new things at IceWatch in 2015?
We presented a new face for the brand in
January. Axelle Despiegelaere was spotted during the World Cup in Brazil as one
of the Belgian team’s most beautiful supporters. She’s also Belgian and the perfect reflection of the dynamism and
accessibility of Ice-Watch. We were looking for a face for our next campaigns and
this spontaneous, fresh student agreed to
join us. This year we will also focus on
our relationship with retailers. We want
to work closely with them and invest in
2.0, K60
our points of sale.
POWERFUL POP
G
3 QUE S T IONS, 3 ANSWERS
“New ideas out of the toolbox”
Joe Babcock, Nixon
Category Manager of
Technical Products.
NIXON IS A LONG- TIME EXHIBITOR AT BASELWORLD. WHAT SURPRISES DO
YOU HAVE FOR 2015?
For 2015 we have our strongest line up of new models, materialisation and technologies that make our best even better. We pushed the design and development
process to bring new and interesting ideas from inside our ‘toolbox’ and onto the
wrist. One highlight is The Moon Raider with a case and band constructed using a
combination of titanium steel and G10 (thermoset carbon epoxy). This combination reduces the weight and increases the strength and durability.
R.S.V.P. isn’t a special edition, it’s a special invitation. A select series of watches for
a select group of fans. Less than 100 numbered pieces have been created for each
of our most iconic models. Conceived for true collectors, the watches in this invitation-only event are customised, offering the exceptional quality of Swiss construction. But our focus on premium also applies to style. Reimaged with unpredictable
elements, exotic colours and exclusive materials, R.S.V.P. is an opportunity to flip
high-end on its head. It’s Nixon’s definition of sophistication.
by Sabine Zwet tler
wrist. One special feature is the rotating Kenzo disc in the centre of the dial,
which animates the seconds hand.
Kenzo offers five models with a diameter of 36 millimetres as well as five
models measuring 42 millimetres in
diameter, all housed in a synthetic case
attached to a synthetic strap. Two
watches feature a monster print on the
dial and strap, alluding to the abstract
2.1, L02
topic of Pop Art.
Extreme timepiece, Fiyta.
ish luxury. Fiyta is one of China’s leading
watch brands. The vintage-style IPplated rose-gold case resembles enginecover trim, while the crown is inspired
by an engine’s transmission gears. The
IP black bezel encircling the multi-layered dial is reminiscent of a sports car’s
steering wheel, while the honeycomb
mesh on the dial resembles a sports car’s
air-inlet grille. The dial indexes are
meticulously inserted ‘brake pads’. The
automatic movement is visible though
the hollowed-out dial. The back plate
design is inspired by sports car wheel
rims. The watch has an anti-glare sapphire glass, a racing-style brown leather
strap and is water-resistant to 50 metres.
Fiyta is the only international Chinese watch brand in Baselworld’s Hall
1, the show’s international brand hall.
It produces tourbillon movements, aerospace movements, innovative new
materials for watches, creative watch
designs and technology. It supplies
watches and timekeeping to China’s
space programme, the Asia Winter
Games, the Asian Sailing Championships and other international sporting
1.1, B87
events.
WHAT IS YOUR NEW R.S.V.P. PROGRAMME ABOUT?
CAN YOU SHARE DETAILS?
KENZO IN T RODUCE S NE W AR T LINE
lancing at your wristwatch can
be agonising sometimes. If
you’re in a hurry, you curse the
ticking timepiece on your wrist. But if
you’re waiting, your watch’s hands can’t
turn quickly enough. Kenzo’s new Pop
line doesn’t make this painful situation
with time any easier to bear, but they
definitely add colour to daily life.
Inspired by legendary Pop Art, they
bring an explosion of colours to the
T
he Fiyta Extreme Collection,
debuting here at Baselworld
2015, blends wristwatch design
with a sports car concept, in a timepiece
that evokes adventure, energy and styl-
WHAT ARE THE TRENDS OF THE SPORT’S WATCHES IN 2015? Pop Art, Kenzo.
Having built surf watches for over ten years, we have a strong working knowledge
of not only how to build a surf watch, but also what features surfers want in their
watch that they currently do not have. We set a goal to create a new surf watch that
blows the doors off – the award-winning Supertide and the Ultratide were born.
The Ultratide pipes surf conditions via Bluetooth to the wrist using data from
Surfline – the world leader in tide/surf information – with ten points of tide data
and custom surf alerts, and is fitting with a charge-free battery.
1.2, B45
BASELWORLD - HALL 1.2 - BOOTH A23
SARCAR TRAMEX SA • Geneva • Switzerland
Abu Dhabi • Azerbaijan • Bahrain • China • Colombia • Dubai • Hong Kong • Indonesia • Japan • Kuwait • Macau • Malaysia • Oman • Qatar • Russia
Saudi Arabia • Singapore • Switzerland • Taiwan • Thailand • UK • USA • Vietnam
Visit us at our booth A12 in the Hall of Dreams or www.sarcar.com
Creation by Sarcar / Photo Marian Gérard
R e d G o l d 18 c a r a t s
with Diamonds
and Rubies.
WATCHES 39
DA I LY N E W S
WALK OF FAME
Jaguar MKI
and MKII,
Bremont.
B R E M O N T C E M E N T S A R E L AT I O N S H I P W I T H J A G U A R A N D S TA R S
I N T H E H O L LY W O O D M O V I E , K I N G S M A N : T H E S E C R E T S E R V I C E
by Elizabeth Doerr
B
remont’s had a healthy year,
cementing relationships
with Jaguar and Hollywood.
Here at Baselworld, the
English brand introduces
two results of these collaborations, the
Bremont Jaguar MKI and the Kingsman
special editions as seen in the Hollywood movie Kingsman: The Secret
Service.
It’s not necessarily clear which of
these two Bremont editions is the more
exciting: the Jaguar MKI and MKII or
the three Kingsman special editions. All
of them are typically aesthetic, highly
functional timepieces.
Back in the summer of 2014,
Bremont accompanied Jaguar on an
exciting, and extremely limited, launch
of the “missing” six vehicles from the
original run of 18 Jaguar Lightweight
E-Type models from 1963. Only twelve
were made in that year; the final six
made their debut at Pebble Beach 2014,
some 51 years later – along with six limited edition Bremont timepieces. As
usual with Bremont’s interesting limited editions, the watch contained a small
piece of history – aluminium saved from
the construction of the new Lightweight E-Type model, which was added
to the case band of the 43 millimetre
white gold Trip-Tick case.
At Baselworld, the big news is the
unlimited editions (though limited in
annual production) in 43 millimetre
stainless steel – one time-only MKI and
one chronograph MKII – created as a
result of the overwhelming response to
the limited Jaguar timepieces.
The dials look like rev counters
from the original car, while the beautifully finished automatic movement is
outfitted with a rotor that looks much
like the original car’s three-spoke steering wheel. They come on a perforated
racing strap in 1960s style, including the
traditional leather spare.
Kingsman: The Secret Service spotlights a number of fine British luxury
brands; Bremont, as one of them, supplies the wrist technology, thereby playing an important role as a spy gadget à la
James Bond. The trainee spies wear
stealthy black chronographs on NATO
straps. These are the Bremont Kingsman Special Edition DLC. Once the
trainees graduate, they receive a rose
gold chronograph with world time,
which is, of course, the Bremont Kingsman Special Edition in a 43 mm rose
Kingsman special
editions,
Bremont.
gold case. This timepiece is also available in stainless steel; all three are certified for precision by the COSC.
As tool instruments for the agents,
they naturally play larger roles in the
film. Nick English, co-founder of
Bremont, also makes a cameo appearance
in the film as a Kingsman. Director
Matthew Vaughn was deliberate in
Brothers Giles and Nick English founded Bremont in 2002. Its name represents
a tribute to the French farmer who aided
them when they crashed one of their
vintage biplanes in a southern French
field. Since 2007, when the first watches
hit the market, the aviation-inspired
marque with roots firmly planted in the
rich history of English watchmaking has
had nowhere to go but up, and rise to the
top it has. Sober design, chronometer
certification, and authentic personality
characterize each and every timepiece.
The key theme at
Bremont’s stand
is the auto.
ANNIVERSARY MODELS
T H E C H A N G I N G FA C E O F R E V E L AT I O N ’ S
R 07 L E G E N D M A G I C A L W AT C H D I A L
H Y S E K C E L E B R AT E S 10 T H A N N I V E R S A R Y
W I T H A B Y S S, T HE F L AGSHIP L INE
by Elizabeth Doerr
by Elizabeth Doerr
R
evelation founders Anouk
Danthe and Olivier Leu have a
special element up their sleeves
when it comes to their watches. Their
unique dials can go from black to transparent when the case’s bezel is rotated
90 degrees, revealing a view of the luxurious automatic movement with large
date and retrograde display of weekdays.
Palace, 5C
IN PE R S O N: G IL E S & NI CK E N GL I SH
LEGENDARY MAGIC
R07 Legend Magical
Watch Dial, Revelation.
choosing his props for this film, saying,
“Kingsmen are first and foremost British,
which made Bremont watches the perfect fit. Apart from making fantastic
mechanical watches, Bremont have links
to the military and their special forces
around the world, making them the perfect timepieces for the modern spy.”
The effect is made possible by superpositioning two polarizing crystal disks
whose scientific nanostructures more or
less play the role of “shutter slats” about
70 nanometers wide (one nanometer is
one-billionth of a meter) blocking the
light to make a black dial or letting light
pass to transparently reveal the movement. It is critical that these disks be
precision-placed on top of one another
and be able to pivot in order to be
turned “on” or “off.” This effect was
created for Revelation by the scientists
at the optical department known as
Thin Film Optic of the renowned Swiss
Center of Electronics and Microtechnology (CSEM).
They now apply this technology to a
very masculine timepiece housed in a 45
mm carbon hybrid stainless steel or
black DLC-coated titanium case called
the R07 Legend Magical Watch Dial. It
is powered by automatic Calibre GD01,
which boasts a 48-hour power reserve.
Despite the extreme modernity of the
watch itself, the textured black calfskin
or caramel-coloured strap provides just
Palace, 6G
the right vintage look.
B
outique brand Hysek takes its
name from celebrated designer
Jorg Hysek, even though the man
himself has moved on to other projects.
At Baselworld, the marque located in
the heart of Switzerland celebrates its
10th anniversary with four different
tourbillons and a set of celebratory
chronographs in four variations. The
Abyss is Hysek’s flagship line, for which
reason it chooses to focus on the tricomAbyss, Hysek.
pax chronograph housed in its very masculine case in this anniversary year.
Perhaps the most emblematic design
feature of this timepiece is the “swivelling lug” system in rose gold, which
allows the timepiece to sit comfortably
and naturally on the wrist with no manual adjustment necessary. The crown and
chronograph pushers are marked by a
crown guard, which means that shock
will not disturb the watch and no timing
settings will accidentally move. A similar,
though functionless, bumper has been
added to the other side of the case for
reasons of visual balance.
The 44 by 14 mm Abyss is available
in three bezel variations of anthracite,
black, or gold added to the base rose gold
and titanium case. The dial comes in
anthracite or black PVD colours. Additionally, there is a black-and-rose-gold
version that differs from the others in the
use of PVD coating on the titanium parts
of the case for a powerful, masculine
look. The strap is available in leather or
rubber, both of which come on a folding
clasp crafted in titanium and steel.
Palace, 7
Please visit us at Baselworld, Hall 1.1, Stand B79
Nouvelle Horlogerie
from Monaco
Quantieme Perpetual Calendar
Ultra light Titanium core & curved shaped 18 K gold side panels
ATELIERS DEMONACO • Palais de la Scala • 1, Avenue Henry Dunant • 98000 Monaco • Telephone : +377 97975747 • www.ateliers-demonaco.com
WATCHES 41
DA I LY N E W S
格拉夫多形切割黄钻和白钻蜻蜓
胸针，钻石共重76.90克拉
彩钻之王格拉夫
作者: 周凯旋
珠宝最重要的除了设计之外，就
是宝石本身的珍稀性了。而格拉芙
GRAFF的彩钻之王称号就是源自于品
牌拥有多款稀罕优质的彩钻而得名。
焕发流光溢彩的王者
格拉夫多年来不断搜集世界上最无
与伦比的宝石，有人说创办人劳伦斯•
格拉夫Laurence Graff曾经手的美钻
和宝石远远超越其它珠宝商。从神秘
迷人的百年古钻，到由格拉夫开采及
打磨、最新发现的珍贵宝石，全部皆
璀璨灵动，也因此奠定了格拉夫在珠
宝界无可撼动的地位。
自 1960年在伦敦成立以来，创始
人劳伦斯•格拉夫坚持从取得原石、
打磨及切割、设计以至镶嵌的过程，
都要以“完美”为坚持。其中选择原
石的部份只选用最优质的宝石，商品
也多以四大珍贵宝石来：钻石、祖母
绿、蓝宝石、红宝石等来切割并设，
使得每件珠宝作品都散发着令人屏息
的美。
打造珠宝的梦幻天堂
GRAFF所采用的白钻，多是颜色
净度最佳的全美钻石，克拉数高的白
钻作品数量也不在话下。而无论是钻
石、彩宝或与其他珍贵宝石的搭配运
用，格拉夫都以其擅长细腻镶工与唯
美的设计衬托钻石与宝石的光芒。Le
Collier Bleu de Rêve项链由两件稀世
珍宝结合而成，镶嵌一颗10.47克拉内
无瑕水滴形艳彩蓝钻，色泽瑰丽，深
邃浓艳的水滴形蓝钻完美映衬一颗4.22
克拉菱形哥伦比亚祖母绿，这颗纯净
无瑕的宝石未经处理，堪称举世无双
的稀世瑰宝。同时这件项链的吊坠亦
可以拆下，当作胸针佩戴。
另一款件格拉夫花形钻石胸针作
品，在瑰丽迷人的花形胸针中央镶嵌
一颗难得一见的8.97克拉艳彩橘粉红钻
石，娇艳欲滴，与四周的顶级白钻互
相辉映，演绎花朵盛开的娇媚美态。
下方的38.13克拉D色无瑕梨形美钻
高贵优雅，以人手镶嵌在细致的铂金
底托上，佩戴时摇曳生姿，闪动的光
芒令人神醉，此款作品镶嵌钻石共重
119.84克拉。
以展现珠宝灵动妩媚的「Tassel 流
苏」珠宝作品，则是格拉夫的设计
与工艺完美呈现的作品，将蜿蜒流泻
的串珠流苏技术与美感发挥得淋漓尽
致。为了确保流苏串珠在不同角度均
立体灵动，每一颗蓝宝石串珠的完美
匹配是至要关键。这件瞩目的立体流
苏作品，巧妙串连耗费多月搜罗的
蓝宝石，确保其色泽及线条皆璀璨灵
动，并由两枚华贵胸针以五条夺目的
蓝宝石和钻石串珠相连组成，中央部
分以耀目灵动的纯美白钻簇拥一颗梨
形蓝宝石，当中更隐藏了以精致铂金
炼坠悬挂的神秘腕表。此作品镶嵌了
超过330克拉蓝宝石和40克拉钻石，备
有三种不同的佩戴方法，可当作一枚
双胸针或分拆成两枚独立胸针佩戴，
灵活多变，为此款珠宝增添了时尚风
采。
格拉夫擅长以大自然为题材，打造
精致不凡的珠宝作品。一只以格拉夫
著名黄钻所打造的璀璨蜻蜓胸针，绝
佳的诠释出众的美学视角精湛工艺。
格拉夫的资深设计团队以钻石勾勒出
蜻蜓的外形，中央镶嵌一颗2.55克拉的
艳彩黄钻，双翼在光线下轻轻颤动，
犹如蜻蜓飞翔时翅膀映照出的太阳光
芒。而另一款以格拉夫雷地恩形切割
黄钻搭配圆形白钻的项链，钻石共重
154.17克拉，佩戴时犹如一道在阳光
下熠熠生辉的瀑布淌流在颈间，令人
迷醉在其闪烁的流光炫彩中。
GRAFF在自设工作坊内的工匠多
数是出自品牌自行培训，以追求完美
的信念，以手工精雕细琢，因此每
件珠宝从设计到镶嵌的过程，都须耗
费大量工时甚至数百小时以上。尤其
当制作特别罕见珍贵的钻石和宝石
时，GRAFF主席兼创办人Laurence
Graff更是难能可贵的亲自监督整个采
购、切割加工及设计制作的过程，严
谨态度在最终完美的作品中呈现，也
因此而打造由珠宝构建的梦幻天堂！
格拉夫Le Collier Bleu de
Rêve项链，镶有一颗4.22克
拉菱形哥伦比亚祖母绿和一
颗10.47克拉内无瑕水滴形艳
彩蓝钻，钻石共重201.15克
拉，祖母绿共重4.22克拉
格拉夫花形钻石胸针，中央镶嵌一颗难得一见的
8.97克拉艳彩橘粉红钻石，下方配以38.13克拉D
色无瑕梨形美钻，钻石共重119.84克拉。
百年荣耀与女性之光——2015年百年灵BASELWORLD新款赏析
文 : 周旭 J OSEPH ZH O U
越洋1915计时腕表Transocean
Chronograph-1915
挑战者36_Colt36LunetteSertieVdf
百年灵创立于1884年，刚刚过去
年的2014年是其130周年庆，不过由
于种种原因，他们并没有大张旗鼓地
进行庆祝。相反，在Baselworld 2015
，他们却非常高调地推出一款旨在向
品牌100年前的重要发明致敬的越洋系
列1915计时腕表。
众所周知，计时码表技术其实早在
怀表时代就已经出现，只是，当时的计
时怀表都只有一枚与表冠融为一体的按
钮，计时的开始、停止及归零功能都通
过它来实现。这一设计今天在一些复
古设计的计时表款上仍能看见。1915
年，为了将计时功能从怀表移植到腕
表，百年灵的第二代传人加斯顿·百年
灵（Gaston Breitling）设计了一个独
立计时按钮，将计时腕表处理起始、停
止、归零的计时控制系统与表冠彻底分
隔开来。这枚单独的计时按钮被置于腕
表的2时位，非常符合人体工学的操控
体验，能让拇指和食指的操控角度始终
处于最舒适的状态。
几年后，百年灵进一步改进了这
一系统，将计时与归零功能分离——
由设于2时位的独立计时按钮控制“
起始/停止”，而归零则重新由表
冠控制，使得分段连续计时成为可
能；1934年，百年灵又设计出了专门
用于归零的第二枚独立计时按钮，这
种设计旋即被其它品牌的计时腕表所
效仿，最终成为了现代计时腕表的设
计定例。
限量发售1915枚的越洋系列1915
计时腕表的推出正是为了纪念百年灵
品牌历史上这一里程碑式的一页。腕
表并非是对100年前加斯顿·百年灵那
只原型表的简单复刻（原款的怀表痕
迹还非常之重），而是从美学与技术
的双重角度全新演绎经典。精钢表壳
沿用了越洋系列最纯粹的设计风格，2
时位久负盛名的独立计时按钮让人眼
前一亮。经过重新设计后，这枚按钮
更显纤长，与本身的计时功能也更完
美地融合，完全符合对操作性和舒适
性等方面的要求。
与早期的计时腕表设计风格相符，
越洋系列1915计时腕表采用了左右对
称的两个小表盘设计（俗称“双眼”
），9时位为小秒盘，3时位为30分钟
计时盘。表盘上的大型阿拉伯数字时
标以及棒形指针都覆有夜光涂层，加
上早期的手写体Breitling标识，以及百
年灵惯用的精钢编织表链，腕表的复
古风情非常显而易见。
最关键的是，为了确保这枚单按钮
能够持续、稳定地进行开始、停止和
归零操作，百年灵专门为此设计研发
了一款全新的自产手上链B14机芯，
装备了精巧的双层双导柱轮，通过同
样是双层设计的计时控制系统实现运
转，目前已申请专利。当然，与百年
灵所有的机芯一样，B14也获得了瑞士
官方天文台认证（C.O.S.C）。
女表方面，一直以来，百年灵表款
给外界的印象都是刚健硬朗、表盘阔
大，似乎是男表一统天下，然而近几
年来，随着各大品牌都纷纷加大了对
女表市场的投入，这种局面正在逐渐
改变。于百年灵，从越洋系列女士腕
表到银河36，再到Colt 33……且不说
设计风格，至少在腕表尺寸上已经有
了愈发明显的为女性消费者度身打造
的意味。
最新款的Colt 36腕表也是如此，
一方面继承了挑战者系列腕表的经典
轮廓，同时又具有较小的36毫米直
径，更加贴合女性手腕，动感而不失
优雅。表盘饰有环形雕刻细节，与百
年灵近年的其它女款类似，选择比较
多样，有黑、蓝、银3色；另有两款珍
珠母贝表盘，其中一款还采用了钻石
时标。除了精钢表链，色彩丰富且表
面带特殊修饰纹理的皮表带更是对女
性消费者市场进行细分的结果。
同时，每款Colt 36腕表均可选配
镶钻表圈。除了外表夺目璀璨，其功
能性也十分亮眼。表壳配以旋入式表
冠，防水深度达到 220米，这在女性
腕表中确实比较罕见。百年灵标志性
的单向棘轮式旋转表圈搭配四枚表圈
指示器赋予了腕表极佳的操控性。机
芯方面，Colt 36腕表搭载获C.O.S.C
认证的百年灵SuperQuartzTM超级石
英机芯，精度为普通石英机芯的10倍
以上。
品牌称Colt 36腕表是一款“兼具
女性情怀的纯正百年灵腕表”，无怪
乎就连广告主角也是卫冕特技飞行女
世界冠军Aude Lemordant了。
NAUTICAWATCHES.COM
NST 101
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GREAT STYLE IN TIME
COVER CoA10 WATCHMAK ER
Aut om at ic L imited Edition
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H A L L 1.
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NEXT STOP: MIDTOWN
Joseph Bulova founded his watch company in 1875 on
Maiden Lane, eight stops from 350 Fifth Avenue, where the
Empire State Building—the place we now call home—would
eventually rise.
Over the past 140 years, as we’ve sold millions of watches
throughout the world, our roots have always been planted firmly
in New York, our home town and constant source of inspiration.
BULOVA.COM
A HISTORY OF MODERN
HALL 1.1 BOOTH B83
MARKETS 45
DA I LY N E W S
CONSTANCY IN CHANGING TIMES
D E S P I T E M A N Y G L O B A L D E V E L O P M E N T S , T H E S W I S S W AT C H I N D U S T R Y R E M A I N S S T R O N G
by Christoph Hoffmann
YEAR-ON-YEAR DEVELOPMENT OF SWISS WATCH EXPORTS
IN FEBRUARY 2015 BY PRICE CATEGORY
15%
Units
5%
Value
+9.2%
10%
+6.2%
+2.6%
0%
-2%
-2.3%
-3.6%
-5%
-5.6%
-3.2%
-3.6%
-5.3%
-10%
CHF
0-200
200-500
500-3,000
3,000 and over
Source: Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry FH
Total
Watches priced at less than 200 Swiss francs see an increase in exports.
most important markets, when compared
to the same month in the previous year,
the decline is only very slight. Swiss watch
exports to Hong Kong showed the steepest fall in two years (-21.8% compared to
the same month last year), with a considerable impact on the overall result. The reasons for weaker exports to Hong Kong
include continued uncertainty after last
year’s unrest and the fact that purchasing
in South Korea and Japan has become
more attractive for many Chinese residents thanks to less stringent visa rules.
The trend was more favourable in
most other markets. U.S. exports rose by
7.5% compared to the same month last
year, closely followed by China (+7.0%),
GLOBAL ECONOMY
which confirmed its January growth figure. In Europe, Italy (+17.6%) and the
U.K. (+54.2%) reported particularly sustained levels of growth, while the Continent as a whole exceeded its 2014 level by
9.4%. Following a very positive year, Japan
suffered an unfavourable base effect with
a steep fall (-15.4%) for the second month
in a row. These statistics are also in line
with observations at the show, where
there are very large numbers of Italian and
British buyers.
The final data also confirms what
Baselworld’s Managing Director Sylvie
Ritter said at the opening press conference: “Despite profound changes, the
sector has held its ground quite well.”
TOTAL SWISS EXPORTS TO KEY COUNTRIES IN FEBRUARY 2015
Countries
Millions of
Swiss francs
Year-on-year
change in %
Export share
in %
Hong Kong
274.6
-21.8%
16,3%
United States
194.4
+7.5%
11,5%
China
108.3
+7.0%
6,4%
Italy
98.1
+17.6%
5,8%
United Kingdom
95.9
+54.2%
5,7%
Japan
90.8
-15.4%
5,4%
Total six countries
862.2
-2.7%
51,0%
DIGITAL REORGANISATION
W H AT W I L L 2 015 B E L I K E ?
MARKE TING HAS KE Y ROLE
by A x e l H e n s e ld e r
exports. However, the global economy
continues to develop less dynamically.
In November 2014, global industrial
production was just 2.5 percent above
the level of the previous year. Growth in
emerging countries in particular remains
comparatively restrained.
For China, the IMF International
Monetary Fund expects a further weakening in GDP (Gross domestic product)
growth this year, to 6.8 percent, with 6.3
percent for 2016. The Russian economy
is facing a deep recession. In the industrial nations reliable impulses are only
being emitted by the U.S. and the U.K.
The Japanese economy has picked up
somewhat in recent months, but dynamic growth is not yet anticipated. And, at
the same time, recovery in the euro
zone remains hesitant.
The E.U. Commission calculates
growth of 1.3 percent in its latest forecast. However, low oil prices could lead
to a somewhat stronger revitalisation of
the global economy. Overall, the I.M.F.
and the E.U. expect the global economy to grow by a slightly higher rate of
3.5 and 3.6 percent, respectively this
year.
A
ccording to the managing directors surveyed by the EHI Retail
Institute, 38 percent of companies already have comprehensive digital
corporate strategies in place for trading
and a good third (36 percent) are already
working on this. Only around a quarter
(26 percent) stated that they had not
yet developed a suitable strategy.
With regard to the digital reorganisation of the strategic alignment, around
half of managing directors (46 percent)
assigned a leading role to marketing.
However, digitalisation not only brings
strategic changes with it, marketing
also calls for new organisational structures. A large majority of the managing directors (78 percent) and
marketing managers (73 percent) surveyed saw a need for action in the marketing departments. In the assessment
of how decisive the changes have to be,
the latter revealed themselves to be
more confident than the managing
directors, however. Only 14 percent of
marketing managers consider fundamental change to be necessary, compared to a third of managing directors.
20 percent of CEOs and 27 percent of
photo: IStock Photo
W
hilst North America and
large parts of Asia should see
strong
growth,
Russia,
Ukraine and a number of oil exporters
will be hit hard. In the euro zone, the
anticipated triple effect of financial
policy, exchange rates and the oil price
make further recovery likely. Germany
recorded real growth of 1.5 percent last
year and will remain on the path of
strong growth this year, too.
The strong performance in many
countries with regard to employment
has continued, helping private consumption to a leading position. Public
consumption, investment and the trade
balance have each made small contributions to growth. The engines for growth
of the global economy are more similar
than would perhaps be presumed.
In the U.S., in China, the United
Kingdom, Japan and Germany, it is primarily private consumption, supported
by positive labour market data, that is
supplying dynamism. The trade balance
could be further factors in Japan and
Germany. In Europe, the devaluation of
the euro is also serving to lighten the
mood, helping companies boost their
Source: Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry FH
S
peaking at the press conference at the opening of Baselworld, François Thiébaud,
President of the Swiss Exhibitors’ Committee, said that
although the Swiss watch industry is facing major challenges, the branch is, nonetheless, still likely to consolidate at a high
level. His view was recently confirmed by
the export statistics published by the
Association of the Swiss Watch Industry
in February. Totalling 1.7 billion Swiss
francs, Swiss watch industry exports contracted by 2.0% year on year in February.
However, this result was partially offset
by a strong January, resulting in a year-onyear increase of 1.0% for the first two
months of 2015.
It’s noteworthy that although the
overall value of exported watches declined
in February, the total number of watches
increased. The fall in value was largely due
to watches in precious metals, of which the
number of pieces fell. Timepieces in steel
also lost ground in terms of both volume
and value. The category of other metals
saw a very strong advance in the number of
pieces, largely offsetting other falls, in
particular that of steel watches. Watches
priced at less than 200 Swiss francs (export
price) were the only category to report an
increase in February, with the number of
pieces 6.2% higher than in 2014. For pieces
priced at over 200 francs, however, the
trend proved negative, slipping some 4%
in terms of both value and number of
pieces. Also of note is the fact that although
demand has shifted significantly on the
marketing managers consider their
marketing departments to be already
well organised.
The marketing experts need to
adapt their strategies and processes to
digitalisation and the resultant changes
in market conditions in order to satisfy
the requirements of their customers –
and other stakeholders. In this, the
increasing number of communications
channels (59 percent) and the everfaster pace of communication (55 percent) represent the greatest challenges
of the transformation process. However, the most difficult aspect of the
process for managing directors (82 percent) and marketers (75 percent) lies
in reacting correctly to the transition in
communication and media-use behaviour of their customers.
46 MARKETS
DA I LY N E W S
COLOURED STONES
INVIGORATE THAI INDUSTRY
An Art Deco pink gold ring, with pink sapphire
center, marquise diamonds and purple square
sapphires by Gamma Creations.
A M P L E F L O W O F R O U G H R U B I E S A N D S A P P H I R E S A N D AT T R AC T I V E TA X
R E G I M E B O L S T E R T H E T H A I G E M A N D J E W E L L E R Y M A N U FAC T U R I N G I N D U S T R Y
by Pooja Agarwal
S
trong flows of rubies and sapphires to Thailand are feeding into the country’s gem
and jewellery manufacturing
industry, auguring well for
exports to satisfy a growing demand for
coloured stones. Silver jewellery production is flourishing for export, but soft
overseas demand for manufactured gold
jewellery is slowing down the realization
of new gold jewellery lines. Thailand has
long played a leading role on the gem
and jewellery exports scene.
Currently, the Thai manufacturing
industry generates some 90 % of global
ruby output, according to Somchai
Phornchindarak, President of the Thai
Gem and Jewelry Traders’ Association.
“When global buyers and traders think
of rubies, they immediately turn to
Thailand,” he says. “Because of the very
successful zero VAT-policy, Thailand
consistently attracts high quality rough
gemstones, including rubies, from all
over the world. Expert Thai craftsmen
have become renowned for their art of
turning these rough stones into the finest gemstones and jewellery.”
The outlook for Thailand’s colour
gemstone industry in 2015 is bright
because of strong new supplies of rubies
from Mozambique and sapphires from
Nigeria, said Anthony Brooke, Vice President of the Thai Gem and Jewelry
Traders’ Association. He estimated that
some $20 to 30 million of rough rubies
are now being cut and polished in Thailand. “We now have a good supply of
rubies from Mozambique,” he said, and
Thai buyers were able to acquire a big
slice of Mozambican rubies sold at a
recent auction by the company Gemfields, he added. Exhibitor Santpal Sinchawla of Sant Enterprise said: “We are
proud to be an authorized auction partner of Gemfields, and we believe in the
future of these rubies as they are very
beautiful. However, they are still not
Tanya Trirotanan of Veerasak Gems
shows one of the world’s best rubies.
much understood by the market.” Burma rubies are considered the best quality rubies, but in the past few years the
industry has faced difficulty in supply,
due to the scarcity of the Burma rubies.
At this year’s Baselworld, Veerasak
Gems presents a rare 12.34 carat
Mozambique un-heated ruby. “The
stone has received an excellent certificate from GRS and moreover also has an
appendix letter from SSEF as an exceptional ruby,” explains Tanya Trirotaran,
vice president of the company.
Brooke also spoke of an ample supply of sapphires coming from Nigeria
over the past several months. “The colours are not perfect, but they are very
marketable,” he said. “This bodes well
for the coloured stone segment.”
THAI JEWELLERY
Silver jewellery manufacturing was proceeding at a steady pace in Thailand,
driven by the success of Pandora in finding international markets for charm jewellery. “Silver jewellery is going very
well,” Brooke said, founded in the fact
that the country is the world’s biggest
exporter of silver jewellery. Thai sales of
manufactured diamond jewellery were
also growing, Brooke said. The picture is
less positive in gold jewellery manufacture, complicated by softer demand in
key overseas markets. This is due to factors such as the recent slide in oil prices
and worries about the euro zone. Brooke
said the creation of new gold jewellery
lines in Thailand had slowed due to
these reasons. Thai exporters are now
pinning their hopes on strong results at
Baselworld this week, and they are
geared to satisfy an increased appetite for
coloured stones in jewellery.
Irfan Takat of Takat Gems holding a magnificent 101 carat Colombian emerald.
Santpal Sinchawla shows Mozambique unheated
ruby collection mined by Gemfields at the booth of
Sant Enterprises.
Exhibitor Salil Shah of Diamrusa said:
“Baselworld is geared for high-end retailers – that is our target market, so we try
to produce something different for the
high-end market.” Thai gem and jewellery executives see Baselworld as a vital
conduit for export sales, and also promote tax breaks at the Bangkok Gems &
Jewellery Fair (BGJF). “One of the newest initiatives of the BGJF is the duty
free status through exemption of the
traditional 20 % import duties on gems
and jewellery products,” said BGJF ‘s
Nuntawan Sakuntanaga. “This allows
exhibitors to freely bring in the very best
gems and jewellery products at a lower
cost, while increasing profit margins
through sales during the fair.”
Chutima Bunyapraphasara, Permanent Secretary of the Ministry of Commerce, said duty free status was part of
a strategy by Thai authorities to boost
the competitiveness of the industry
globally. “This is reflective of the government’s goal to ensure Thailand’s
competitive edge and position as the
hub for the global trade in gems and
jewellery,” she said. Another major government support is the zero VAT incentive, which exempts 7 % value added tax
(VAT) for imported rough gemstones
and materials. This is done with the goal
of positioning Thailand as an attractive
hub for the best rough gemstones from
around the world.
ASEAN ROLE
With the integration of the region in the
ASEAN Economic Community, Thailand
is expected to export more gems and
jewellery to ASEAN dialogue partners,
such as China, Japan, and the Republic of
Korea. Statistics from the Global Trade
Atlas show that the gem and jewellery
trade among the ten ASEAN countries
registered at $3.27 billion, made up of
$1.84 billion in import value and $1.43
billion in export value.
Thailand’s gem and jewellery business in the ASEAN region is still relatively small, approximately $135 million,
comprising $82.7 million in import value
and $52.4 million in export value. Nonetheless, it is one of the world’s top gem
and jewellery exporters.
The gemstone and jewellery industry is also among Thailand’s top foreign
exchange earners, and it generates
employment for 1.1 million people in the
country. Out of this number, 75 % are
engaged in cottage industries in more
than twenty provinces, and the remaining 25 % include workers in Bangkok and
nearby provinces.
GATEWAY TO NEW OPPORTUNITIES
T H E PA N A M A D I A M O N D E X C H A N G E I S T H E F I R S T A N D O N LY D I A M O N D A N D G E M S T O N E B O U R S E I N L AT I N A M E R I C A
L
atin America faces big and rapid
development. With a growing
middle class, disposable income
increases and this boosts the demand for
luxury goods. The Panama Diamond
Exchange (PDE) was created to
strengthen this economic sector. It
serves as a trading platform and bidirectional gateway where suppliers and buyers from North America, Europe, Asia
and the Middle East can access the fastgrowing markets of Latin America,
which are valued at over eight billion
dollars, and where members of the
industry and trade in Latin America can
meet and do business in easy-to-reach,
secure and stable surroundings. To create an adequate legal and financial environment, PDE worked closely with successive Panamanian governments and
Filippo Costi, Ali Pastorimi and Erez Akerman visited Baselworld.
the country’s parliament, which have
strongly supported the project. As a
result, Panama was accepted as member
of the Kimberley Process, the international system that defends against the
infiltration of conflict diamonds into the
legitimate chain of distribution. Membership in the Kimberly Process is a
prerequisite for participation in the
international diamond trade. The government of Panama also introduced legislation, which was then ratified by the
parliament, according to which the area
of PDE will operate as a free zone with
special tax and customs status.
The PDE is currently building its new
headquarters, the World Jewellery Hub.
It will house the PDE trading floor,
administrative and private offices, showrooms, vaults and secure transportation
facilities. It is located in a free-trade
zone and exempts transactions conducted within its area from payments of
customs duties and taxes. Creating such
a marketplace is the largest and most
ambitious development project ever
undertaken on behalf of the jewellery
and gemstone trades in Latin America.
Erez Akerman, the president of
CEO, came to Baselworld to promote
the PDE and to talk to the most important companies. “The fair is the number
one in the world. And we are ready to
reap the fruit of our work. We have the
faculties and we can provide great trading opportunities”, he says. “After touring the entire world, we now want to
meet the best of the best. We want to
reach the pinnacle and that is Baselworld.“
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JEWELLERY
DA I LY N E W S
HIGHLIGHTS
NATURE AS ROLE MODEL
C O L O U R F U L , E X O T I C , H I G H - Q U A L I T Y: S T E N Z H O R N
RE VE AL S I T S CURREN T COLLEC T IONS
52
Interview by Christel Trimborn
Scheffel focuses on sportive and
individual design, as Managing
Director Axel Scheffel tells
Baselworld Daily News.
F
ounded in 1979, the German jewellery manufacture Stenzhorn is still
an internationallyactive, family-run
company. The jewellery of the
five collections Wildlife, Composa, 2nd Skin, Amanda and
Classics is available in Europe,
Asia, Russia, the Middle East
and the U.S.. BWDN spoke
to the designer and CEO,
Bettina Stenzhorn, about
inspirations and new pieces.
BWDN: What is the challenge in designing such
sophisticated jewellery collections as Wildlife?
Bettina Stenzhorn: We draw our inspiration primarily from nature. A few years
ago I travelled through Africa with my
husband. Experiencing the landscape, the
people and, above all, the animals in their
natural habitat – that was a great inspiration for us. Back in Germany, we immediately made sketches of animals and created jewellery that is now representative
of Stenzhorn. This is how the Wildlife
collection was created, and it is now successful all around the world. The most
difficult aspect in the production of jewellery of this kind is achieving the natural
look down to the tiniest detail. Our creations aim to depict the animals living in
the wilderness as closely as possible.
PERFECT
PROPORTION
56
BIG, BOLD AND
BEAUTIFUL
Rodyner Rayner presents three
new collections in his 30th consecutive year at Baselword.
59
65
Brooch pendant, 18-karat white and
red gold with diamonds,
the eyes are made of yellow sapphires.
What type of women do you have in
mind with your design ideas?
Stenzhorn is leaving the beaten track
with the new collections. With the highest standards of quality and finishing we
Radiant coloured gemstones play a
particular role in your jewellery – do
you have favourite stones or materials?
Our favourite materials are gold and
platinum as well as diamonds, emeralds, rubies and sapphires. Working
with platinum in combination with
emeralds is rather difficult, but we love
a challenge and we love these materials
in this combination, which become
true works of art.
What new pieces did you bring to
Baselworld?
We have finished some wonderful necklaces. In the 2nd Skin collection we
present opulent necklaces, in Classic our
customers can find necklaces with rubies
and sapphires in the invisible setting and
in the Amanda collection we work with
white and red gold as well as unusually
beautiful diamonds. But it is not just
necklaces that can be admired at Stenzhorn, we also present rings, bracelets,
brooches and earrings in the familiar top
2.2, G90
quality and workmanship.
REINVENTING
FABERGÉ
The traditional artist jewellery
introduces prestigious creations
appealing to a new generation.
Designer and CEO of Stenzhorn, Bettina Stenzhorn.
offer handmade jewellery that symbolises
confidence, vitality and adventure.
Where Wildlife represents an exciting
animal world, the new collections are an
homage to all women who are simply
themselves. Women who enjoy life and
discover new sides to their character.
DELICATE DESIGN
Akoya pearls and youthful
creations are in the spotlight at
German-based Yana Nesper.
66
71
A STORY OF PASSION
The contrasty designs of Hanadi
Keane are made for self-assured
women.
CUTTING AND
ENGRAVING
Everything about laser devices,
made for both smaller and bigger
businesses.
77
OUTSTANDING
TREASURES
The world’s leading dealers
present stunning estate and
antique jewellery in Hall 3.
FOR THE LOVE OF GEMSTONES
N O B L E , R A R E A N D V E R Y S P E C I A L C O L O U R E D G E M S P L AY
T H E L E A D I N G R O L E F O R T H E U . S . - B A S E D I V Y C O M PA N Y
by Christel Trimborn
V
ladyslav Yavorskyy was in his mid
twenties when he founded his
company in New York in the early
1990s. After studying geology in Odessa,
Ukraine, the enterprising adventurer set
out to explore the world of gemstones.
Asked about his boss, IVY’s Marketing
and Sales Manager Jonas Hjornered says:
“Vladyslav has been to almost every mine
in Burma, Sri Lanka, Madagascar, Tanzania, Mozambique and all the other countries where gemstones can be found. He
is completely passionate about gemstones.” Hjornered, who has worked
together with Yavorskyy for the past
11 years, describes his collaborator as a
connoisseur when it comes to facetting
and cutting gemstones and as an
acknowledged specialist for the finest
and rarest coloured gems. The 44-yearold Vladyslav Yavorskyy is also responsible for designing the jewellery for his
company, which he named “IVY” by combining the first letter of the word “inspiration” with the first letters of his given
IVY, Mandarin garnet, diamonds,
in gold.
Expressive colours in all hues on display at IVY.
name and family name. “However, I
would not call him a jewellery designer,
but a composer. His jewellery is more like
art,” his assistant adds.
Each piece of jewellery from IVY is
unique. Each begins with the fascination for a very special stone. Centre
stage is always given to “the romance of
the stone and the romance of the creation,” Hjornered says. Yavorskyy has also
mastered the art of combining various
stones to create a piece of jewellery
that’s optimally balanced in its size,
form and proportions. The results are
earrings, rings and chains that look as
though they were lifted from the pages
of the “Arabian Nights”. For example,
Yavorskyy’s imagination can give birth to
a collier of pinkish-red spinels (43.08 ct)
and diamonds (38.13 ct) set in white
gold or to earrings with lagoon-blue
tourmalines and diamonds or tsavorites
and rubies. One of the most outstanding
pieces that IVY is showing at Baselworld
IVY, aquamarine, Paraiba tourmaline,
diamonds, in gold.
this year is a ring with a perfectly proportioned 160-carat Colombian emerald
that seems to glow from within.
Presently based in Beverly Hills,
California, IVY also runs an office in
Hong Kong. All pieces of jewellery are
handmade in the U.S. under the watchful eye of the company’s founder. “Our
customers can be found all over the
world – in Brunei and the Philippines, in
Switzerland, Mexico or Brazil,” Hjornered says. “Pieces from IVY are exclusive and one-of-a-kind items. Our customers don’t buy them because of the
brand name, but because of the creativ2.2, G40
ity and the stones.”
50 JEWELLERY
DA I LY N E W S
Boucheron Héra peacock
ring with orange and
yellow sapphires.
PEACOCKS AND FEATHERS
B A S E L W O R L D TA K E S F L I G H T W I T H W I N G E D C R E AT U R E S
by N i n a H a ld
E
ven the watch world can’t
stay away from winged creatures this year! While Harry
Winston and Omega have
used feathers as motifs for
this year’s watch news – for example on
the dial of the Premier Midnight
Feathers from Harry Winston
and the Omega Constellation
Plume – it is in the fascinating universe of jewellery
that the trend for peacocks, winged beings
and feathers is
unfolded in a big way.
The majestic peacock is associated
with ambiguous
symbolic values.
Heaven and immortality are represented as well as
pride, one of the
seven deadly sins,
Chopard Peacock earrings;
18 karat white gold and titanium,
emeralds, multi-coloured sapphires,
multi-coloured diamonds, tsavorites,
cabochon amethysts, and Paraïba
tourmalines.
the peacock is also the symbol
of the Thai fertility deity.
The colours and the
“eyes” of the peacock’s
tail are far too gorgeous
for jewellery designers
to stay away from –
supplemented
by peacock
pearls with
a gorgeous
green bodycolour and green,
blue and magenta
overtone are always a
delight. Chopard and
Carrera y Carrera both
gave their take on the genre
– Chopard with a pair of ear
earrings, Carrera y Carrera with a
necklace.
This year, Jacob & Co.
presented the Jacob’s Plume
fine jewellery collection, which
plays upon the historical trend
and cultural significance of wear
wearing feathers as a form of adornment,
thus breathing new life into a tradi
tradition with inherent ties to luxury and
refinement. Mikimoto interpreted a
bejeweled plumage in the unique
Feather necklace, made of diamonds
and coloured stones, suspended in
the air and seemingly caught by a
gentle breeze. With five rows of
lustrous Akoya and white South
Sea cultured pearls, accented by
the beautiful hand crafted
Carrera y Carrera Peacock necklace in
white gold with green tourmaline, iolites,
sapphires, tsavorite garnets and
diamonds.
motifs, the piece embodies
confidence and grace like
that of a beautiful bird.
Boucheron has issued an
orange version of the classic
Hera ring, which has previously
been done in a black-and-white
and a blue-and-white version.
Roberto Coin gave his take on the
trend with a Falcon and Parrot ring,
thus staying in the winged universe.
Jacob’s Plume earrings,
made of rose gold with diamonds
by Jacob & Co.
Roberto Coin’s Parrot
ring with rose and black
gold with diamonds,
multi-coloured
sapphires, green
garnets and rubies.
Mikimoto’s unique
Feather necklace with
Akoya cultured pearls, a
14.38 carat tanzanite,
garnets, diamonds,
sapphires and Paraïba
tourmalines.
SHOWING THE REAL YOU
FINEST JEWELS FROM THE FAR EAST
RUPPENTHAL SHOWS SIGNE T AND CREST RINGS
KIMBERLITE DIAMOND IS BRINGING A TOUCH OF ASIA TO BASEL
I
n earlier times, signet and crest
rings were the preserve of the
aristocracy and the clergy. They
indicated the position of the wearer
and were used to legitimise documents and deeds, using the imprint of
the signet ring.
Today, these rings are a trend,
thanks in part to Ruppenthal. One can,
for example, express one’s personality
or hobbies with them. The Idar-Oberstein-based company offers premium
rings in 585, 750 gold and 925 silver
with hand-engraved crests and monograms. The variations are endless and
each customer design can be interpreted 1:1. Whether illustrious reliefs
or sunken engravings, suitable for sealing use, everything is possible.
There are also countless variants
of the stone plates which are used,
with matching cufflinks. At Baselworld, Ruppenthal is presenting an
advertising display, featuring 17 signet
rings at a cost price of 1,500 euros.
Included in the price are 50 signet
ring brochures for distribution to
end customers, enabling jewellers to position themselves as
specialists in this segment.
Ruppenthal is, again, also
presenting a huge selection
of interchangeable clasps,
jewellery, gemstones, pearls
and much more. 2.2, D21
Signet and crest rings by Ruppenthal.
A
nyone strolling through jewellery
Hall 2.1 on the look-out for new
things is bound to be drawn in by
the Kimberlite Diamond stand. Various
Asian beauties can be seen just outside
the entrance, wearing some fantastic
items of diamond jewellery. And the
firework of pieces in the showcase is
overwhelming. Some true works of art
featuring the king of the gemstones are
on display here – largely set in 18 karat
white gold.
All of the items make reference to
their origin – China. Sometimes the artist has been inspired by Chinese symbols, sometimes by the architecture and
pagoda rooftops, sometimes by Chinese
mythology with its dragons and flowers
and sometimes by shadow theatre which
is popular in China. The Forbidden City
is also featured as a decorative pendant
at the stand as is Mount Everest. The
Kimberlite Diamonds presentation in
Basel pays homage to the riches and
beauty of Far Eastern culture. And the
many artists behind these jewellery
designs demonstrate the exceptional
design expertise of the people of Asia.
The forms used are extremely modern.
Kimberlite Diamond’s jewellery pieces set off glamourous fireworks.
And no wonder – Kimberlite Diamond is
a big player in the Far East. The company specialises in the design, production
and sale of diamond jewellery. Kimberlite has over 700 franchise businesses in
China alone. The company already has
branches in Europe too. Kimberlite Diamond is number one in the list of the top
500 Asian jewellery brands in China and
number two in Asia. Kimberlite has an
excellent reputation when it comes to
quality. It offers six guarantee promises
for each item of jewellery. It offers, for
example, a life-time guarantee for the
free re-setting of any loose diamonds by
a franchise partner. At Basel, Kimberlite
is focusing on conquering the global
market with its exceptional items of
jewellery. Anyone with a weakness for
Far Eastern culture in a modern garb is
recommended to pay a visit to the Kim2.1, C45
berlite stand!
52 JEWELLERY
DA I LY N E W S
Rotondo Pavée bracelets from the Tubo line,
combining steel and diamonds.
CLEAR LINES,
SOFTLY ROUNDED
Axel Scheffel,
Managing
Director of
Scheffel.
S C H E F F E L P R E S E N T S P E R F E C T LY
PROPOR TIONED JEWELLERY IN BASEL
O
wner and Managing
Director Axel Scheffel
explains how he creates
individualistic designs
that set his products
apart from mass-produced luxury goods.
BWDN: Among other new items at
Baselworld 2015, you’re also showing a
new Rivière collection. Could you tell
us about it, please?
Axel Scheffel: It’s a new interpretation
of a very conservative theme. Designs in
general are becoming smaller and more
filigreed, but we’re swimming against
the tide here with big, bold shapes that
give a new expressivity to rings and
bracelets. For example, we’re bringing
the tennis bracelet back where it originated: namely, as a sporty theme. Our
bracelet can be worn comfortably while
playing tennis.
How has the Rivière collection been
received?
We sold more than we expected. We
specifically use this show to get a feeling
for how the market will respond to our
new pieces. The positive feedback confirms that our interpretation of this
theme is absolutely on target.
To what degree is the Rivière’s formal
vocabulary typical for Scheffel?
Very clear lines are a characteristic of
Scheffel’s jewellery. But there’s also
always a certain rounded quality to
prevent them from looking too austere.
This means we’re never strictly geometric. We combine two essentially
opposing formal vocabularies to create
a very feminine expression. Our clientele associates us with perfectly proportioned designs.
You also offer the Tubo line in stainless
steel. Which target group responds to
this line?
This question does involve price levels.
We believe that there should also be
luxury in stainless steel: after all, stainless steel is also sometimes used for the
cases of luxury watches. It has to do
with the craftsmanship and the design.
And it also involves mixing steel with
other materials such as diamonds and
gold. Then the jewellery gets a very
high-quality appearance. And you can
sell a stainless-steel bangle for one third
of the price of a similar gold bangle.
The new Rivière collection by Scheffel showcases the sporty interpretation of a classic.
With such big and bold shapes, doesn’t
the jewellery become too costly?
Our jewellery isn’t a question of price
levels. We focus on very sporty designs
that can be worn in everyday situations.
After all, our subtitle is ‘Jewellery of
Today’. We can only achieve this by giving our jewellery somewhat more volume and by working in more massive
dimensions. Very few manufacturers
offer comparably sporty jewellery.
A FRESH NEW LOOK
FAIL-SAFE
PFO R ZHEIM PRE SEN T S I T SEL F A S GOL DEN,
M O D E R N A N D I N N O V AT I V E
S A F E S I N S O P H I S T I C AT E D I TA L I A N D E S I G N O F F E R
A S E C U R E H O M E F O R W AT C H E S A N D J E W E L L E R Y
by Pia Grund-Ludwig
F
ollowing the successful trade show
appearances of the past, the Golden City has now brought a new
look to the communal stand at the leading global show for jewellery and watches
in Basel. In keeping with the stand, the
new graphic motif of the Pforzheim
pavilion has also been incorporated into
the newly published show booklet and
the advertisements for the Golden City.
Attention is drawn not only to the
altered design of the Pforzheim pavilion,
but also to two new exhibitors on the
stand – Laco Uhren and Staib. On a
stand area of over 200 square metres in
the Hall of Impressions, nine well-known
companies from the jewellery and watch
sector based in the Pforzheim economic
region are presenting themselves to the
international trade audience.
The nine co-exhibitors at the
Pforzheim pavilion and a further 40
exhibitors from the Pforzheim economic
region at Baselworld 2015 demonstrate
once again that the Golden City stands
for historic tradition, expertise, quality
and design.
The Golden City show concept has
been well received by the Pforzheimbased jewellery and watch companies. In
addition to an optically appealing show
concept, the pavilion also offers all-round
service and therefore lower organisational
requirements.
The Pforzheim pavilion is organised under the auspices of the municipal company Wirtschaft und Stadtmarketing Pforzheim (Economic and City
Marketing Pforzheim). Co-operation
partner for the project is the jewellery
and watch association Bundesverband
Schmuck + Uhren. The objective is to
position the Golden City as the German centre of excellence for jewellery
2.0, F61
and watches.
P
recious jewellery requires an appropriate ambience. This is provided
by Agresti of Florence, with safes in
the best traditions of Italian craftsmanship integrated into sophisticated pieces
of furniture, for the safekeeping of valuable watches and precious jewellery.
“We work with precious materials such
as luxury woods, gemstones and snakeskin,” says Paolo Agresti, describing the
philosophy of the family-run Italian
company. This makes it possible for
jewellery and watches to be stored
securely in the home and worn every
Do your customers tend to select individual pieces or do they buy entire collections?
In order to show a certain degree of competence with Scheffel’s products, our
customers usually buy two or more collections, sometimes opting for very dissimilar lines. Today’s women want to
combine their jewellery rather than owning jewellery that’s all in the same style.
But the individual pieces must nonetheless harmonise with one another. And
precisely that is the strength of our various collections: they’re united by the
2.1, F21
distinctive ‘Scheffel Look’.
day. It would be a pity if they were
locked in a bank deposit box and only
worn rarely as a consequence.
The safes are located in the cabinets and are completely invisible from
the outside: “Forget the classic concept
of a safe,” says Agresti. After all, wealthy
individuals have no desire to have a
lump of metal in their rooms. Instead,
customers receive an exclusive piece of
furniture that can be placed in any
room.
On display at the show are pieces in
materials including malachite, ebony
and red python skin. With the exception
of the watch winders, which are purchased from Swiss manufacturers, all
manufacturing is carried out in workshops in Florence, emphasises Agresti.
New to the range at the show is a
cabinet in polished ebony, the front of
which has a touch display. Integrated into
the cabinet, alongside the safe, is a computer with a webcam and the function of
triggering a police alarm in the event of
unauthorised access. All safes also have
biometric recognition systems, which are
discreetly concealed. These only allow
the safe to be opened when a finger is
2.2, D35
applied to them.
© 2015 BAYCO JEWELS LLC. PHOTOGRAPHED EXCLUSIVELY FOR BAYCO BY BRIAN MOGHADAM
HALL 1.1 STAND E09
WWW.BAYCO.COM
The Ultimate Blue
A SCINTILLATING 22 CARAT NATURAL UNHEATED CUSHION BURMA
SAPPHIRE FLANKED BY EPAULET DIAMONDS ALL SET WITHIN AN
ELABORATE DIAMOND MICROPAVE RING.
THE ARTIST JEWELLER
HALL 1.1 BOOTH A13
56 JEWELLERY
DA I LY N E W S
PROUD TO BE HERE
R O D N E Y R AY N E R P R E S E N T S T H R E E O P U L E N T C O L L E C T I O N S
I N H I S 3 0 T H Y E A R AT B A S E L W O R L D
by D av i d B r o u g h
R
odney Rayner, proud to be
back at Baselworld for
his 30th year, introduces three new collections that will
appeal to the independently
minded woman who loves his signature colour and bold designs.
The U.K. designer is delighted to
be launching three new collections this
year. “They are called Starburst, Treasure
Island and Sea Urchin. Starburst is a
dramatic sculptured band ring with specially cut ovals and drops and beautiful
tonal pave colour,” Rayner said. “The
design is a big evolution of our highly successful Via Roma flexi-rings and our
Comet collection, taking inspiration from
their shape, volume and unique features.
The Starburst collection will incorporate
matching pendants and earrings.”
The new Treasure Island collection
is classic Rodney Rayner. “It features
large centre stones, a request from some
of our customers, surrounded by champagne diamonds and very pretty uniquely cut ovals,” said Rayner, who is based
in Surrey, in southern England. “The
design is a very modern interpretation of
the classic cluster ring. This design also
takes some inspiration from our popular
Pod collection with its soft shades of
opaque stones and organic shape.”
Rayner added, “We are also showing a
beautiful collection of Sea Urchin rings,
inspired by our holidays in Tahiti and
Belize.”
Rayner wants to attract retailers from
the Middle East among the wide crosssection of international buyers. “We feel
our collections are perfect for this market,” he said. Rayner’s pieces have been
popular over the years in Eastern Europe
and Japan, earning him recognition in
the UK as one of the country’s leading
exporters of cutting-edge jewellery
design.
“I am often asked, ‘What sort of
woman wears Rodney Rayner jewels?’”
he says. “That’s a very difficult question
to answer. I suppose the overriding trait
is a self confident, often independently
NEWS
BR AZIL’S BEAUTY
Rings from Rodney Rayner’s
Sea Urchin collection
wealthy lady who loves colour. Importantly a woman who has her own opinion
and style and doesn’t feel the need to
wear highly advertised ‘super brand’
jewellery. Obviously a lady who prefers
individuality.”
Rayner started in the jewellery
industry when he was 18 years old,
working for a traditional UK jewellery
house in his home town of Norwich in
eastern England.
Later he moved to London to work
for a leading retailer of European fine
jewellery, where he was exposed to the
very best of British, French and Italian
Rodney Rayner and Karin Rayner.
designs. In 1981, Rayner launched his
own jewellery brand, and his career
soared. Now, as he returns to Baselworld, he reminisces about how his
experience at the show has evolved. “In
my first year of exhibiting I had a small
stand as part of a large British group, and
was located just down the aisle from our
current location,” he said. “The greatest
CARL A AMORIM IS IN LOVE WITH THE GEMS OF HER COUNTRY
T
MURARO LORENZO – the group is a
traditional presence at Baselworld with
its Comete Gioielli and Barakà brands.
The first spotlights new male designs
with the Italian Stories collections but
does not overlook the world of women
and wedding collections that characterize the brand. Barakà, the Group’s iconic
trademark, is now established in men’s
jewellery with high technical and engineering content, inspired by architectural elements, linkages and movements
expertly paired with precious materials
thanks to cutting-edge production and
2.2, D20
craftsmanship. (af)
he jewellery that Carla Amorim
crafted at the beginning of her
career was intended solely for
her own jewel box. But this creative
Brazilian obviously touched the nerve of
the times because other people soon
took notice of her stylish brainchildren
and encouraged her to make more from
her occasional forays into the world of
jewellery design. “I started making jewellery for me to wear, which people then
began to praise,” says Carla Amorim.
Then, one day, she realized she had
found her calling. “I had the insight that
creating jewellery was my gift, and that I
should follow this path professionally.”
Today, 23 years later, she’s one of Brazil’s
most successful jewellery
designers. International
stars such as Jennifer
Lopez,
Christina
Applegate and Sharon
and Kelly Osbourne
adorn themselves with
this designer’s femi-
Lupita ring from
Carla Amorim.
The radiance of a single gemstone is often in the centre of Carla Amorim’s designs.
difference today is in the importance of
branding and perceived luxury. This has
changed the look and feel of Baselworld
dramatically.”
Asked why he keeps coming back,
Rayner said, “Baselworld is the most
important and prestigious jewellery
show in the world, with customers visit2.1, F80
ing from worldwide.”
Lupita earrings from Clara
Amorim’s Black Label Collection
feature white gold with turquoise
and diamonds.
nine jewellery. The
architecture, faiths and
natural environment of
her homeland are the
principal sources of
inspiration for her
designs, which especially highlight the
brilliance of Brazilian
gemstones. A single
gem often forms
the gleaming centre
point in her filigreed
pieces. Two varieties
of gems are her personal favourites: “I’m in love
with all stones, but the colours
of the Paraiba tourmaline and
emerald remind me of the sea,”
she says.
All her pieces use 18 karat gold,
in yellow, white, pink and black hues, and
all are produced at her own facility in São
Paulo, Brazil. Not surprisingly, one of her
most successful jewellery collections is
named “São Paulo”: the full spectrum of
this assortment is on display at this year’s
2.1, A31
Baselworld.
JEWELLERY 59
DA I LY N E W S
OUT OF TRUE LOVE FOR
GENUINE BEAUTY
Urban Nights earrings, with
Tahitian and Akoya Pearls,
diamonds and white gold.
Bracelet Fünfzehn + Eins,
15 brillant-cut diamonds meet
one Akoya pearl, rose gold.
YA N A N E S P E R R E I N T E R P R E T S C L A S S I C P E A R L J E W E L L E R Y
W
ith her youthful pearl
jewellery brand Yana
Nesper has conclusively shaken off the fusty
image of the jewel of
the seas and lent it a rejuvenated touch.
In this, Yana Nesper not only looks to
fresh design but also the highest standards of quality. Her advantage: she can
access the enormous stock of finest
pearls held by the parent company,
Heinz Nesper, and secure the finest
examples for her collection. She and her
husband, who manages the pearl trading
company, are united by a passion for the
beauty of pearls. The jewellery brand,
which bears her name, is Yana Nesper’s
pride and joy: “We have reinterpreted
classic pearl jewellery and added a
number of highlights. With this we cover the bread & butter business of the
pearls whilst also offering eye catchers.”
The trade waits with bated breath to
see what new jewellery ideas Yana
Nesper has to offer at Baselworld. Yana
Nesper reports: “The Akoya pearl is our
particular focus in 2015. We combine
the pearl classic with a modern twist
and present it in elegant, delicate and
X-Ring with freshwater pearls,
diamonds and white gold.
Youthful pearl jewellery, as presented by owner Yana Nesper, is the hallmark of the company.
very fresh designs.” The gentle colour of
the Akoya, which displays a hint of pink,
harmonises wonderfully with the feminine and delicate pieces of the new collections Fünfzehn + Eins as well as
Gina and Gina Coral. In the bold Sea
World line the designer combines strong
coral-red and turquoise with the Akoya,
whilst in the reversible Double Face
studs it is also an important element.
And what are the pearl jewellery
trends for 2015? Yana Nesper: “Generally
speaking, we can see a strong trend
towards delicate designs. This is why we
are also offering jewellery with small
pearls this year. Slim bracelets and rings
can be worn discreetly individually or
PASSING THROUGH THE MAGIC MIRROR
combined with one another. Long, slender and elegant earrings – as in our Stiletto Royal collection – are also in fashion.” In addition, multi-functionality is
also in demand. Jewellery must be transformable and adapt to the outfit. For
example, the Double Face reversible
studs can not only be worn in two variants, they also conceal the functional
clasp behind an attractive pearl. The
innovative Smart Back earrings offer a
completely different way of wearing
pearls. Here the pearls sit below the earlobes, with a small brilliant-cut diamond
or pearl shimmering in the pierced hole.
The studs can be individually adjusted to
2.1, M60
suit the respective earlobe.
NEWS
W H E N I N V I T E D I N T O T H E F R E N C H J E W E L L E R Y W O R L D O F LY D I A
C O U R T E I L L E PA R I S , E X P E C T T O B E D A Z Z L E D
by N i n a H a ld
P
arisian-born Lydia Courteille is
the rare designer breed that does
not come along too often. A
designer of the old school (and the old
world), her view of jewellery is pure
luxury. Unique large creations are set
with equally unique gemstones, in an
aesthetic language that can best be
described as opulent. Colours vie for
attention, only rivalled by the boldness
of the design – and in their extravagant
Secret Garden ring,
jade, 0.15 carats
of diamonds,
2.10 carats of
fancy sapphires,
set in 18 karat
blackened gold.
Lydia Courteille is the creator of unique and opulent pieces.
Homage to surrealism:
ring with16.26 carat fire opal,
25 carat fancy sapphires,
0.70 carats of diamonds,
set in gold.
nature, the pieces display a lot of
humour and imaginativeness.
As a trained expert in gemmology
and history student, and lover of nature,
Lydia Courteille consciously aims to
create conversation pieces. Think of the
royal tradition of cabinets of curiosities,
and you have a pretty good impression
of the look of Lydia Courteille’s jewellery language.
Today, Lydia Courteille Paris has
retailers in America, Russia and Hong
Kong, as well as in France, and her creations are regularly shown at the haute
couture fashion shows in Paris, such as
Givenchy and Alexi Mabille. When
Prada gives a boutique presentation,
they are assisted by Lydia Courteille;
when Yves Saint Laurent launched a
new version of Opium, Lydia Courteille
Paris played a supporting role in the
campaign, and even the world-renowned
fashion designer icon Karl Lagerfeld has
even paid her the ultimate compliment
with the recommendation: “She has a
genius for making jewellery – I trust her
taste 100 percent.”
The Lydia Courteille Paris collections have such names as the Secret
Garden, Bestiary, Gold Fetish, Vanities,
The 13th Sign, Catacombes and Deep
Sea, clearly revealing the sources of
inspiration. Glamour is pushed to the
extreme by the French designer,
with drama and suspense that make the
jewellery an almost surreal fantastic
2.0, J42
vision.
MICHAEL WEGGENMANN – His
uncompromising passion for the finer
things in life has made Michael Weggenmann a firm favourite on the international jewellery scene. By the way, the
Aurea chain collection is the first collection to be designed by his daughter, Lisa
Weggenmann, and has become an immediate hit. The long silver chains with
grey or brown rhodium plating are
wound with fine gold, lending them a
casual yet premium character. The silver
chains are complemented by a pendant
in 750 gold with diamonds or pearls
2.1, B21
from Gellner. (ahe)
HALL 1.1 STAND A09
www.tisento-milano.com
FASHIONABLE RHODIUM PLATED
STERLING SILVER JEWELLERY
62 JEWELLERY
DA I LY N E W S
GAY FRÈRES CAPITALISES
ON NEELIA AND KIDOU
THE MODERN
DIAMOND PEN
CHARMING BE ADS AND PE ARL S FROM FRANCE
WRITING WITH FIVE THOUSAND DIAMONDS
b y Ky r a B r e n z i n g e r
by N i n a H a ld
F
ounded in 1895 in Annemasse on
the French-Swiss border, the Gay
Frères company is focusing on its
new Neelia and Kidou brands as part of
its international development strategy.
A feminine and childhood universe,
interpreted in the form of jewellery.
Neelia offers a feminine collection
in tune with the times – a new vision of
French jewellery. Its new Pearl range
contains some precious jewellery items,
made up of pure and graphical lines.
These items are easy to wear and match.
They are equally suited to daytime and
night-time. The new collection being
presented at Baselworld is based on the
concept of beads and pearls and all their
facets: cultured pearls and semi-precious stones (onyx, cacholong) as well as
diamond pavé items. The gold bracelet
is particularly elegant, encompassing a
combination of black and white pearls
C
Pearl necklace by
Neelia, with diamonds,
onyx beads and white
goldchains.
Neelia’s feminine collection at the Gay Frères stand.
while the prestigious Pearl necklace
features a string of fine chains in a cascade formation.
The Kidou brand was launched in 2002
and reinvents the world of childhood in
the form of precious jewellery. Kidou
1
appeals to both adults and children with
its gold and silver jewellery, celebrating
some of the biggest moments in life.
This year, over six new ranges have been
added to the collection, recalling our
childhood. The Animaux range offers
charming ladybirds and butterflies while
some delicious cherry necklaces celebrate Joyeux Printemps. A collection
which is good enough to eat! 2.1, L70
aran d’Ache has brought the La
Modernista Diamonds fountainpen to Baselworld – a tribute to
Antoni Gaudí (1852-1926), the most
famous of Modernist architects. Made
by rhodium-coated solid silver and pavéset with 5.072 diamonds (totalling 20
carats) and 96 rubies (totalling 0.32
carats), the pen is a true work of art,
honouring the artistic movement known
as Modernism. As part of a series begun
in 1995, the collection was limited to
1.888 numbered pieces to commemorate the year in which the first World
Fair was held in Barcelona, capital of
Modernism.
With an 18 karat gold nib (also rhodium-coated), one can only hope that the
words written with the writing instrument are as inspired as the look of the
creation. The rubies are arranged on top
of the cap, forming the ‘CdA’-monogram
of the company. The pen took some six
months to produce from conception to
completion; the haute joaillerie creation
2.1, B51
is the only one of its kind.
COLOUR FOR MEN
2
T HE NE W ACCE SSORIE S IN T HE F IEL D OF MEN’S
J E W E L L E R Y S H O W T H AT C O L O U R A N D G O O D
S T Y L E N E E D N O T B E M U T U A L LY E X C L U S I V E
W
3
4
1)
2)
3)
4)
5)
6)
7)
8)
9)
5
Shamballa Jewels
Victor Mayer
Meister
Gellner
Roberto Coin
Ruppenthal
Charriol
Bogner Man
Deakin & Francis
7
6
8
ith the colour long since
added by sneakers, now
accepted accompaniment
for suits, bold colours also characterise men’s fashion this summer.
It is not just sporty design labels
such as Y3 or Bogner who sent
their models out on the catwalks in colourful outfits for
the summer season 2015. Jackets in bold pink shades, refined
bomber jackets and suits in radiant silk fabrics or flowing coats in saffron
yellow are setting the tone at Louis
Vuitton, Dolce & Gabbana and Maison
Martin Margiela, amongst others. At
Valentino even floral applications have
established themselves firmly in men’s
fashion. The Belgian Walter van Beirendonck is particularly colourful, cladding
fashion-conscious men in vibrant, finely-patterned outfits, the inspiration for
which lies somewhere between kimono,
samurai and ballet dancer.
It is therefore no wonder that the
trend is continuing in the field of jewellery. Men who only wish to set discreet
yet stylish colour accents can turn to a
specific item of jewellery to express
themselves: the cufflink. For example,
the models from Victor Mayer are radiant in deepest dark blue. The Germanybased, family-run company has perfected the art of fire enamelling over a 100year period and offers cufflinks in many
different, impressively radiant hues.
Jewellery for the male shirt sleeve is also
to be found in the range of Italian jewellery brand Roberto Coin. This year it is
falcon heads in rose and black gold with
white, brown, black diamonds and onyx
that make the male pulse race. All of the
pieces of the Falco range are limited.
Humour in the design of cufflink motifs
can also be found in the products of
Deaking & Francis, a family-run enterprise that has been manufacturing in
Birmingham for seven generations.
Their cufflinks, in the form of glowing
red lobsters, are just one of over 2,500
models that customers can choose from.
As with the female fashionistas,
men are increasingly turning to more or
less distinctive bracelets. The new
men’s jewellery collection from Gellner
is a good example of the fact that wearing pearls is by no means the preserve of
the woman. The Rock it collection has
been developed in collaboration with
the Swedish model Markus Schenkenberg, who is expert at combining a casual look with elegance. The brightly-coloured bracelets of the Geneva jewellery
and watch manufacturer Charriol are a
perfect match for colourful outfits or as
a radiant contrast to the classic suit.
Steel wire wrapped in dyed PVD lend
the golden hoops a youthful, fresh
touch. Those looking for a lavishly colourful look can wear different coloured
bracelets of the highly-fashionable range
on top of one another.
9
M I K I M OTO.CO M
H A L L 1 . 1 S TA N D C - 0 9
DISCOVER THE COLLECTION. HALL 1.1 STAND A63.
TOKYO
•
BEVERLY HILLS
K O R L O F F PA R I S B O U T I Q U E
12 RUE DE LA PAIX 75002 PARIS FRANCE
+33 1 49 27 92 09
DUBAI
•
MOSCOW
JEWELLERY 65
DA I LY N E W S
PERFECT QUALITY
OF CRAFTSMANSHIP
NEWS
FA B E R G É I S R E I N V E N T E D A S A B R A N D A N D
A P P E A L S T O A N E W G E N E R AT I O N O F C O L L E C T O R S
KAREN SUEN
– she knows
how to fascinate people.
Karen Suen,
who was formerly a professional
dancer,
now captivates her
audience with unique
pieces of jewellery. Debuting at
Baselworld this year, the Hong Kongbased company is presenting the finest
pieces of one-of-a-kind jewellery, mixing
contemporary, fashionable style with the
use of high-end stones and timeless
design. “Designing jewellery is like
dancing: you can’t simply recreate something, whether it’s a necklace or a choreographic routine,” says the owner of
the homonymous company, who is certified by the GIA and has won many
2.2, C40
design prizes. (cete)
I n t e r v i e w by N i n a H a ld
W
hilst consolidating
the firm’s unique
position as an artist
jeweller, Fabergé’s
President, Robert
Benvenuto, is also proud to introduce a
very prestigious creation at Baselworld.
BWDN: What principles define the
brand?
Robert Benvenuto: Today, at Fabergé,
we continue to consolidate our unique
positioning as an artist jeweller. As
such, Fabergé paints with a palette of
precious colour to create personal pieces of art. It is also important to the
Fabergé design DNA to inject character, wit and surprise into our creations.
Unusual layering of materials and techniques, combinations of precious gemstones with cut carved stones, enamelling and contrasting colours are key
elements of our designs.
What role does Baselworld play for the
brand?
We see Baselworld as the global voice of
the luxury timepiece and jewellery
industry, so there is no better platform
to commence the global launch of Fabergé in terms of distribution and, of
course, products, including this year’s
introduction of four world-premiere
timepiece collections, high and fine
Earrings from the Secret
Garden collection by Fabergé.
Robert Benvenuto, President and COO of Fabergé.
jewellery collections and the revival of
the iconic Fabergé egg tradition.
How does the wildly extravagant fit
into today’s world?
Extravagance is subjective. Fabergé
pieces are personal pieces of art that
become the collectibles of the future.
Our clients for high jewellery are some
of the world’s most-sophisticated and
discerning collectors of contemporary
jewels and artworks.
What rules does the company thrive on?
Celebrating our unrivalled
heritage, honouring the legacy
of Peter Carl Fabergé through pushing
the boundaries of craftsmanship and
artistry, whilst reinventing Fabergé for
a new generation of discerning collectors. We need to renovate the past,
without renouncing it, we combine
being contemporary with perfect-quality workmanship.
How do you see the future of
Fabergé?
As part of Fabergé’s exclusive distribution strategy, we are planning to continue to expand in key cities in the
U.S., Europe, the Middle East and
Asia. Stand-alone boutiques and highend multi-brand retailers make our
pieces accessible to new markets and
to a new generation, pieces that will be
collected as the much-prized antiques
1.1, A13
of the future.
K ALEIDOSCOPIC COLOURS
COLOUR IS SYNONYMOUS WITH PRESTIGE
AT B A S E L W O R L D – A N D T H E U S E O F I T I S
A C L E A R A E S T H E T I C S I G N AT U R E
by N i n a H a ld
W
hether vivid shades of intense
coloured diamonds, subtle
shades of pearls, or powerful
and bright enamels: colours are definitely
the ‘du jour’ experience to have at Baselworld and, hopefully, one which you can
also take home. Even though logos may
not be visible on the outside, the way
that certain jewellery companies work
with nuances is a sure give-away to those
in the know.
This year, Jewellery Theatre is presenting three new collections dominated
by colour concepts: Kaleidoscope, Rainforest and Carnival. The Kaleidoscope
collection is characterised by clear geometric shapes and flat surfaces at its
core, as well as unexpected forms and
optical illusions that cheat the eye with
3D and 360-degree designs. The effect
of gazing into the psychedelic cylinder of
a kaleidoscope has been the inspiration
for this colourful world of wonder, with
the visual effect of textured layers morphing into one other. Each layer appears
seamlessly from behind one other, and
the black-and-white underside reminds
us of artists’ sketches in their conceptual
phase. Fabergé combines precious gem-
stones with cut or carved stones, and
uses enamelling and contrasting colours
that recall the famous work of the Russian artist jeweller, Peter Carl Fabergé.
And, finally, the intense coloured diamonds are always just as impressive as
they are rare and exquisite; have a look
for yourself at Graff Diamonds.
Aaron Basha uses enamel
to bring whimsy and charm to
the delightful characters
of the company’s collections
and characters.
Jewellery Theatre has launched the Kaleidoscope collection.
Laurence Graff holds a
selection of the world’s most
valuable gemstones.
MATTIOLI –
The new Les
Epoques ring
collection from
Mattioli, the Italian manufactory,
invites us to travel
through time to the
1920s, ’40s and ’60s.
Designer Licia Mattioli is obviously in love with the art and
culture of yesteryear. The time travel
through an exciting century begins with
her rose-gold ring: representing the
1920s, it features a large aquamarine and
references the Art Nouveau period. This
piece is followed by a minimalistic ring
with straight lines and a rhodolite: representing the 1940s, it alludes to the clear
forms of Bauhaus architecture. The trilogy concludes with a colourful ring that
weds enamel embellishments and a morganite in a tribute to the Pop Art culture
2.2, H81
of the 1960s. (ahe)
PESAVENTO –
Silver designs
in new and
surprising
varieties are
the speciality
of this creative
Italian
smithy.
Innovative developmental work enables Pesavento to
repeatedly unveil bold beauties with
classical appeal. The fascinating play of
lights reflecting from the gently shimmering surfaces of the new ring creations in the Polvere di Sogni Madreperla line manifest their designers’ enthusiasm for specialness. A new treatment
of the familiar Polvere surface gives
these pieces a seductively pearly effect
that recalls the appearance of a valuable
2.1, J19
antique mirror. (cs)
66 JEWELLERY
DA I LY N E W S
CREATED AND
CRAFTED IN BRITAIN
D O MIN O BE LO N GS T O O NE O F T HE U K’S L E A D IN G J E W E L L E R Y
G R O U P S W I T H A FA C T O R Y I N T H E H E A R T O F
BIRMINGH A M’S HIS T ORIC JE W EL L ER Y DIS T RIC T
I n t e r v i e w by D av i d B r o u g h
A
ndrew Morton, CEO of
Domino’s parent company,
WB The Creative Jewellery
Group, tells Baselworld
Daily News about Domino’s
latest collections, which are being showcased at Baselworld.
BWDN: What new collections have
you brought to Baselworld?
Andrew Morton: If you are seeking
British-made, luxury wedding rings then
our recently launched Wedding Collection will certainly get your pulse racing
by offering tremendous choice for both
men and women in all alloys of gold and
platinum. This encompasses both highly
A selection of
wedding rings.
contemporary,
diamond-set and textured
designs as well as offering all the
more traditional ring profiles across a
range of band widths. A branded display
box completes the package.
Another strong story for Domino is
the Diamond Ring Mount (DRM) collection. This is produced to exacting
standards at our factory in Birmingham
and offers some unique and stylish ring
designs in platinum and 18-karat gold.
If you are looking for a highly commercial range with design at its forefront, then our new Starla collection will
be an exciting discovery.
Display cases showcasing Domino’s
latest collections at Baselworld.
Most of Domino’s jewellery is created
and crafted at our state-of-the art factory in Birmingham, and we believe this
gives our collections an edge, not simply
in terms of their consistently high quality of production but also in the uniqueness of their design.
Because the vast majority of our jewellery is made in house, we can guarantee
absolute consistency in the excellence
of its manufacture and strict qualitycontrol procedures.
Also, all our collections are backed
by excellent marketing materials, brochures, photography and point-of-sale
materials to help Domino retailers reach
out to the consumer and make sales.
How does the creative/design process
work?
The sole function of the eight staff in
our new product design team is to create cutting-edge products to be sold
globally. They spot key influences early
so that Domino is one step ahead of the
Diamond rings from the Starla collection.
What is special about the new
Domino jewels showcased?
Domino strives to update its ranges several times a year building on strongselling pieces and adding in new designs
to provide freshness and innovation.
NEWS
A FUSION OF CONTR ASTS
Andrew Morton, WB The Creative
Jewellery Group MD.
trends and can offer its retailers real
style and innovation.
Domino jewels are ‘Created and Crafted in Britain’. Why is this important?
What steps is Domino taking to ensure
that the manufacturing process for its
jewellery is ethical?
We are members of the Responsible
Jewellery Council and were among the
first U.K. businesses to gain Fairtrade
manufacturing certification. We offer
Fairtrade gold as an option across our
wedding ring and Diamond Ring
2.1, K91
Mount collections.
A R T I S T R Y, V I S I O N S , P E R S O N A L I T Y A N D
PURPOSE IS THE KE Y TO HANADI KE ANE
by N i n a H a ld
I
ARTUR SCHOLL – The Pforzheimbased manufacture has been producing
premium-quality jewellery since 1947.
Each piece of the Artur Scholl collection
is produced using traditional methods in
18-karat gold, with diamonds and gemstones. Designed in house, the pieces
are handmade and worked by the best
goldsmiths in the trade. The special,
unusual designs and superb quality have
given the company a reputation for
offering truly unusual jewellery. Artur
Scholl is represented by select jewellers
in Europe. One prime example of the
high standard is this set of ring and earrings with white and champagne-coloured diamonds, together with orange
2.1, K30
and yellow sapphires. (ahe)
n 2009, a story of passion and independence began in Geneva in Switzerland – the birth of the Hanadi
Keane company. The location was not
chosen lightly; it had to be a place echoing
the values of dedication, precision, excellence and strong work ethics. So this
choice was made deliberately in order to
reflect these brand values.
The company’s founder Hanadi
Keane always had the desire to turn her
childhood dreams and genuine fascination of diamonds and jewellery into reality. Her dream was to create wearable
high-end jewellery of versatile beauty and
uncompromising quality,
in a play of contrasts –
visual contrasts of the
design, but also of
essence, character and
inspiration.
While
effortlessly
blending craftsmanship and
eane’s creations
art, Hanadi Keane’s
reflect an unexpected balance
of graceful fragility and surprising strength; of simplicity and
complexity. The collections are mirrors of authenticity as they explore
real life stories, experiences, considerations, even questioning the meaning of
18k gold Aura sautoir with
white mother-of-pearl.
Hanadi Keane at the company stand.
Toi et Moi 18k white gold ring
with 62 0.57-ct. white diamonds
and 62 black 0.57-ct. diamonds.
love, nature,
spirituality,
choices, roots, and contrasts.
The designs are inspired by
and created for successful
women who are bold, ambitious, independent and self-assured, yet still feminine and delicate. This female muse is at
ease in any situation, and even though she
may not need to make a statement
(because she knows who she is, where she
comes from and where she stands), she
also likes to stand out once in a while. Her
personality reveals the coexistence of typical traits that result in the signature
fusion of contrasts, as seen reflected in the
jewellery.
Hanadi Keane’s jewels are of resolute
distinction and timeless elegance. Every
single piece is the result of a relentless
pursuit of a stylistic and formal ideal,
where elements of the great tradition of
jewellery-making are combined with
those of avant-garde fashion. From the
choice of fine materials to the qualitycontrol process, each piece translates an
untiring search of perfection.
So far, in just five years. Hanadi Keane
has managed to win the recognition of an
exclusive private clientele in Switzerland,
and this has brought the brand onto the
2.1, K01
international stage.
LEAVE YOUR MARK ON THE WORLD
Visit us at Hall 1.2 - B49
www.magnumgroupbasel.com
GODFREY GAO
and Links of London
linksoflondon.com
Hall 1.1 Stand A77
INNOVATIONS 71
DA I LY N E W S
LASERS AFFORDABLE
AND EASY TO USE
L ARGE SELEC T ION OF T ECHNOLOGY
I N H A L L 4 . U F O R C U T T I N G A N D E N D G R AV I N G
by Markus Strehlitz
V
isitors wishing to find out
about laser devices for cutting and engraving will
find a large range of the
current technology in Hall
4.U. For smaller manufacturers in particular suppliers offer machines that can
perform both tasks.
Elettrolaser (4.U, C54), for example, is presenting the Fiber Lux 70,
which reproduces images from any type
of file and transfers it on metal materials with high precision and versatility.
“We are constantly working to develop
the technology further,” says Commercial Director Massimo Grigoli. This is
also evident to visitors to the Baselworld this year. Among other features,
Elettrolaser has equipped the Fiber
Lux with a special cooling system.
Thanks to this, the cutting process can
proceed significantly faster, Grigoli
explains.
Orotig (4.U, F21) is also presenting
a device with which goldsmiths can
both cut and engrave at the Baselworld.
The RR-writer 70 uses technology
known as Multi-Diode Pumped Fiber.
According to the manufacturer, the
result of this technology is an item of
equipment which is extremely reliable
and fast, extraordinarily long-lived,
highly efficient and with a minimum
environmental impact.
In the opinion of Marco Pasqualini,
however, the underlying technology is
no longer decisive. This is now standard. “Customising is what makes the
difference,” says Pasqualini, who is
responsible for sales at Orotig. The key
is, therefore, how well the device can
be adapted to the specific application.
To achieve this, Orotig offers a wide
range of accessories, as well as the
accompanying software. According to
Pasqualini, this is very easy to operate.
The user therefore needs no special
expertise in order to work with it.
A large range of laser technology is
also offered by Sisma (4.U, C20). This
also includes a device which allows
engraving, marking and cutting. According to the manufacturer, the Big Smark
is an innovative system that can be connected with all Sisma accessories, making it highly flexible.
Cutting and engraving with one
single device is always a compromise
nonetheless, says Silvio Valenta, Managing Director of Siro Lasertec (4.U, C11).
Elettrolaser
Sales Manager
Federico Murari
presesnts the
Fiber Lux 70.
Pieces produced by the Orotig machine.
This year his company is exhibiting a
new machine that focuses solely on cutting. With the AC 300 F laser machine,
developed in conjunction with Alphalaser, sheet metal with a thickness of up
to 3 mm can be cut. The unit operates
with an enclosed, laser-safe work chamber and is operated via a touchscreen.
This also makes the machine very simple to operate, according to Björn
Hansen, responsible for Technical Service at Siro Lasertec. “The AC 300 F
Björn Hansen from Siro Lasertec
with the AC 300 F.
offers a high degree of repeat accuracy,” says Hansen. “Work orders can be
changed very quickly.”
According to Valenta, Siro Lasertec
has a specific target group in mind
with the machine. “The AC 300 F is
an entry-level model,” says the Managing Director, “we have left out a lot of
automation in order to be able to offer
it at a reasonable price.” As a consequence, the AC 300 F is of particular
interest for smaller manufacturers.
SHOWN IN THE BEST LIGHT COMPREHENSIVE CARE FOR TIMEPIECES
B U L L N H E I M E R E Q U I P M E N T C R E AT E S I M A G E S
A N D V I D E O S O F W AT C H E S A N D J E W E L L E R Y
PROPER SERVICING PRESERVES
T H E VA L U E O F P R EC I O U S T I M E P I EC E S
by Pia Grund-Ludwig
by Pia Grund-Ludwig
O
ne of the items on display this
year at Bullnheimer & Co (4.U,
B23), a wholesaler of equipment
and tools for jewellers, watchmakers and
dealers, is an addition to the Mode 360°
presentation tool. The device creates
images or videos that can be displayed on
websites or in internal networks as rotatable objects, capable of being viewed
from all angles. This is the third generation of the device. It consists of a cham-
Niklas Bullnheimer shows Mode 360°.
ber with a rotary table, on which the
objects are positioned. It rotates, whilst a
camera records images or videos. The
number of LEDs that illuminate the
objects has been increased by a third,
with the lights also capable of being
switched on and off in groups, as well as
dimmed. The new version enables
watches to be illuminated from behind,
presenting them in a better light. The
additional Modevid software is optimised
for gemstones, with videos created
instead of static images. Individual images can then be extracted from these videos. In the standard procedure, numerous individual images are recorded and
joined together, creating a rotatable
image. The mounting of the plate has
been improved, enabling focused images of small objects such as gemstones to
be obtained in spite of the rotation.
This ensures that the objects do not
move while rotating. The lighting has
also been optimised for gemstones,
with two special spotlights on movable
arms, which can be twisted in all possible directions. The solution also
offers the option of storing the documents in the Cloud. From there a
catalogue enables images to be added
directly to YouTube, Facebook or eBay.
4.U, B23
C
aring and servicing valuable
watches is an important topic
in Hall 4.U. Many companies
have expanded their palette of products in this sector.
The “Chronoproof Pro” is new in
Witschi’s assortment. It can test a wider range of pressures than the Chronoproof, which debuted last year and can
also set parameters specifying the pressure at which a watch will be tested.
This equipment is intended for small
manufactories that change batteries in
high-quality watches. The Swiss company also invested in its IT service and
in the user-friendliness of its website.
Products can now be selected and compared with a simple mouse click. Software and firmware for products are
available for downloading. Also new:
companies that use many Witschi
devices can opt to administrate them
all under a unified interface. The programmes can be started from a guidance unit; central setting of parameters
is possible.
Updates for programmes can be
installed from a server. Online support
has also been simplified. The devices
are delivered with the Teamview
option. This programme supports
remote maintenance.
Greiner Vibrograf presents
ASC Basics.
Martin Schürch, Witschi
Elecronics, explains the
new service concept.
The ASC Basics is a new item in the
portfolio of Greiner Vibrograf (4.U,
F26). This user-friendly and affordably
priced device cleans watches without
ultrasound. Service centres are the target group of the ASC Basics.
Elma Schmidbauer (4.U, E36),
exhibiting for the first time under the
company’s new name, presents its complete palette of products, which include
solvents for cleansing. The Elmasolvex
VA comes with explosion-proof technology, the Elmasolvex RM for multichamber and automatic watch cleaning,
and the Elmasolvex SE for multi-chamber and manual cleaning.
Eitan Industries (4.U, F34) is displaying the familiar cleansing methodology with dry steam. This equipment
can also be tested onsite. Thanks to its
compact dimensions, the LSE-3/c also
fits easily into stores.
N e w Y o r k 4 8 Ea s t 5 7 St re e t , N e w Yo r k , N e w Yo r k +1 .2 1 2 .7 1 9 .5 8 8 7
G e n e v a C h e m i n d e P l e i n -Ve n t 1 c h -1 2 2 8 G e n e v a , Sw i t z e r la n d + 4 1 .2 2 .3 1 0 .6 9 6 2
jacobandco.com
V I S I T U S AT B A S E LW O R L D 2 0 1 5
H A L L 1 . 1 S TA N D B 3 1
GEMSTONES 75
DA I LY N E W S
30 mm South Seas golden heart shape
baroque pearl, in a necklace layout, total
carat weight, 448 carats, Alain Boite.
OYSTERS ON OVERTIME
S O U T H S E A S A N D F R E S H W AT E R C U LT U R E D P E A R L S A R E
LOOKING BIGGER AND BE T T ER T HAN E V ER!
by Gary Roskin
Daniel Vecht, London Pearl.
W
e realize that not every pearl is big, but
we have seen some
amazingly large
and beautiful cultured pearls in the Hall of Elements. We met up with three
exhibitors specializing in the oysters’ gem, and they offered some
magnificent sights as well as important advice.
Alain Boite (3.1, D25), one of
our Hall’s South Seas pearls experts
has been perfecting the heart shaped
golden cultured pearl. These beautiful
saturated golden colour, nice size gems
are definitely loveable. You must design
something around them. We wrote
about these little beauties last year, but
we were not prepared for what Alain’s
son Pierre brought to us next. It was a
30 mm South Seas golden heart shape
baroque pearl. Featured in a necklace
layout with a total of eight additional
baroque pearls, whites and goldens, the
total carat weight was a whopping 448
carats. But size alone was not the important part of this layout. The heart shape
Dumbo the Elephant inspired gem
pearl brooch, Australia Pearls.
baroque was not one their controlled
hearts, but a lucky find, one of Mother
Nature’s gifts. Even if you cannot take
this home, you should at least come see
it – and then pick up a few of the
smaller golden cultured pearl hearts.
Then, as if we hadn’t seen the best
already, Pierre brought out a large strand
of round whites, with beautiful lustre,
pink rosé overtones, no visible blemishes, and beautifully shaped. Measuring
Chinese freshwater rounds, natural colour, London Pearl.
from 20 to 16.5 mm, life doesn’t get
much better than this.
Last but certainly not least, Boite
brought us a mixed strand of rounds,
with whites, goldens, Tahitians, and
colourful freshwater pinks, and mauves,
a mix of South Seas and Chinese freshwaters, all bead nucleated and natural
colours, with high lustre and smooth
surface, measuring 17.7 to 15.5mm.
Big sizes, and in great shape.
Pinella Autore from Australia
Pearls, (3.1, D41) was excited about
a white South Seas drop – measuring
23.2 by 20.5 mm, with great shape, and
soft lustre as one would expect. We
placed it next to an incredibly colourful
Tahitian cultured round, superb lustre,
with the differences striking and complementary all at the same time. “The
drop shape is magnificent,” says Autore.
Becoming famous for her fish inspired
pearls, Autore showed us yet another
artistic effort – Disney’s Dumboinspired elephant pearl. “I saw the ears,
and immediately thought of Dumbo.”
We found another hit at Australia
Pearls, a high lustre, all matching dark
colour, 16.3 to 18.3 mm – an
exceptional large strand of
cultured round Tahitians.
We should note that most
“large” Tahitian pearl
strands are typically 15 to
16 mm in size.
Unable to photograph
the last and most impressive layout, Autore brought
us a 25 piece, 17 to 21 mm,
baroque cultured white South
Seas cultured pearl necklace. The centre drop measured 23 x 25 mm.
Daniel Vecht, London Pearl, (3.1,
N02) has a wonderful selection of South
Seas and Chinese freshwaters, in large
sizes, rounds, and unusual unique
shapes. Vecht has been featured with
the super large freshwater baroques the
past few years, but has always been a
prominent South Seas pearl supplier.
One of the most amazing pearls
Vecht found this year was a pearl that
looks like a shell. The “shell” you see in
the image showing a small round cultured pearl drop is not a shell at all, but
a shell shaped natural pearl.
Mix of large South Seas and freshwater rounds, natural colour, London Pearl.
23 by 20 mm white South Seas drop,
with 16 mm Tahitian, Australia Pearls.
REMINDER: CARE
AND HANDLING
As you know, but may sometimes forget,
these magnificent jewels created by
oysters and should be treasured and
treated not as a hard gemstone, but as
the soft organic gem material that it is.
They should be the last to go on, after
the perfume and hairspray, etc., and the
first to come off when you arrive home
from the evening’s festivities. They
should be protected from being rubbed
up against other jewellery in the jewel
box, and wiped only with a soft cloth.
Mixed South Seas and freshwater strand, exceptionally large round, Alain Boite.
NEWS
SCREAMING SPINELS! – Have you
ever walked by a showcase where the
gems are talking at you, loudly? Screaming
red spinels are in the Hall and you
need to find them. Try looking in
all of the major colored gem
dealers’ showcases. Prime
examples, go see Paul Wild
(3.0, D05), Constantin Wild
(3.1, A13), Henn (3.1, E27),
and Yavorskyy (3.1, E19).
WOW! There are several reasons you need to have spinels in
Yavorskyy
your arsenal of designing inventory: 1.) Hardness – an 8. They can really
take the wear – these are ring stones for
sure. 2.) They are more affordable than
vivid rubies – and were once mistaken for
rubies. And 3.) They are here! (gr)
GRS ON THE FUTURE OF RUBY –
On Monday, March 23, Dr. Adolph Peretti, head of the GRS, Gemresearch
Swisslab, presented a seminar and videos
regarding the state of the ruby market,
focusing on the commercially important
ruby sources of 2015, Burma and the new
mines of Mozambique. Peretti spoke on
diminishing supplies from the prestigious Mogok region, stating that almost all
available Burmese rubies are from Mong
Hsu, about 250 km from Mogok. The
majority of Mong Hsu ruby has been
enhanced by heat. This has led to soaring
prices for Mogok unheated rubies, which
manifests itself in record-breaking auction results. According to Peretti, Mozambique rubies have taken the place of their
Burmese counterpart. (gr)
FALLING FOR BLACK ICE – Motti
Lissitzky, third generation in Korn Diamonds (3.1, E11), is finding that black
is the new white among watch and jewellery makers. Korn is best known for
well-made cuts including baguettes,
princess, emerald, marquise, heart, oval,
pear, cushion, and
radiant. Lissitzky
notes that client
requests, which
inspired him to create his Novo Hombre
men’s collection in
unique diamond cuts and enhanced
diamond colours, revealed the strong
demand for precision cut black diamonds of this calibre. (dy)
GIA GEMFEST BASELWORLD – On
Sunday, March 22, 150 people attended
the GIA Baselworld where Dr. Simon
Lawson, head of technologies U.K. for
De Beers and Dr. Wuyi Wang, director of
research and development for GIA, discussed the latest research on synthetic
diamonds and challenges in their identification. Dr. Lawson reviewed the methods used to produce synthetic diamonds
and how recent improvements in De
Beers diamond evaluation instruments
can aid in differentiating synthetic from
natural diamonds. Dr. Wang discussed
the challenges in identifying synthetics
as their quality has improved. He concluded by stating that GIA is able to
identify every single synthetic diamond
at this moment. (gr)
LOVELY IN LAVENDER – These
extremely rare lavender jadeite (natural
colour) beads, small strand of 1100 carats
tw, and large strand of 1,400 carats tw,
are courtesy of Garaude (3.1, A09). Jadeite is one of the toughest gem materials,
which means they are very wearable.
And in this colour, VERY popular! (gr)
GEMSTONES 77
DA I LY N E W S
GUARDIANS OF
THE ESTATE
Antique emerald and
diamond 18K gold
and silver snake
bangle, circa 1850,
Faerber.
W O R L D ’ S L E A D I N G E S TAT E & A N T I Q U E
HOUSES SHOW THEIR TRE ASURES IN HALL 3
Tibor Ullman for Paul Fisher shows assorted
jewellery popular from the mid-20th century.
by Deborah Yonick
C
ollectors of fine estate and
antique jewellery are in
their element in Hall 3
with the opportunity to
see outstanding, one-of-akind treasures presented by the world’s
leading dealers, the likes of which
include Faerber (3.0, B03), Ernst Färber
(3.0, C03), Horovitz & Totah (3.0, A01),
Yafa Signed Jewels (3.0, A25), Paul Fisher (3.0, A17), Carlo Luca Della Quercia
Gioiellieri (3.0, B30), Circa (3.1, C01),
and Andrew Cohen and The DeYoung
Collection (3.0, D01).
The overriding theme among collectors of estate and antique jewellery is
the desire to have something special,
not like their friends have, emphasises
Ida Faerber of Faerber. “Many collectors
view estate and antique jewellery as an
17th century sapphire seal from the Mughal
Empire, 1635, Ernst Färber.
investment you can wear and enjoy.”
She describes certain periods like Art
Deco and post World War II as inspiring
times for creative ideas and innovations.
Among the trendiest pieces are very
wearable designs from the 1940s to the
’70s. Big, chunky gold cuff bracelets and
statement earrings, long chains, and lots
of colour are very much in fashion!
Maurice Moradof of Yafa Signed
Jewels concurs, citing Van Cleef &
Arpels his biggest and bestselling brand
with No. 1 styles primarily from the
1960s and ’70s. “The pieces are incredibly wearable, with the mystery setting
highly coveted, especially set with
rubies. But turquoise and coral are also
popular.” In fact, he says more collectors
are shifting to colour stones. And,
demand for exceptional signed pieces
remains significant.
Tibor Ullman for Paul Fisher notes
that jewellery from the 1950s-’70s is
almost more sellable than popular Art
Deco pieces, which are always in demand.
He agrees that this period produced
designs that are very easy to wear, as they
are more casual than Art Deco. He notes
that there are two different types of clients, from serious collectors of important
signed pieces that might not ever leave
the safe to those searching out designs
from a fashion point of view.
Serious collectors, Sam Khafi of Circa
says, are always in the market for rubies,
emeralds and sapphires that are untreated, as well as fancy colour diamonds,
most notably pinks and blues, and natural pearls – the upper echelon of the gem
world. He concurs that mid-20th century jewels have become so popular that
they’re difficult to source. “People are
buying what they can to the point that
beautiful, well-made designs from this
period are vanishing from the market.”
Beyond estate baubles you can easily accessorise with, these speciality
jewellers present outstanding rarities,
such as Ernst Färber, who is showcasing
a 17th century sapphire seal from the
Mughal Empire, 1635, once owned by
Shah Jahan. The untreated Burmese
sapphire seal weighs 151.20 grams and is
30.20-30.60 mm x 7.30 mm in size. It’s
valued at a cool million U.S. dollars.
The beauty of the estate and
antique jewellery category, Ullman
says, is in the fact that just about every
piece is a one of a kind, and items that
are in great condition are truly the
hardest to come by. “Every piece has a
story to tell and that’s the beauty of
this business.”
Showcase of assorted Van Cleef & Arpels jewels at Yafa Signed Jewels.
NEW BUSINESS WITH OLD TREASURES
GOOD SALES CAN BE ACHIE VED WI T H AN T IQUE JE WELLERY –
I F AT T E N T I O N I S PA I D T O A F E W T H I N G S
O
n many of the stands in Hall 3
treasures are on view that
reflect the magic of times gone
by: jewellery that in many cases was created in the workshops of now legendary
jewellery artists well over 100 years ago.
There is no doubt about it, these pieces
can represent an exciting and individual
addition to the jeweller’s range. It is a
logical assumption that the trade in
these objects differs fundamentally
from that in modern jewellery – after all,
it is not possible to reproduce the his-
Archit, Anshul and Ashir Rakyan of Global Gems.
toric pieces and the offering on the
market is limited. Entering the world of
trading in historic jewellery is a challenging step; however, with a good feel
for the subject, a basic knowledge of the
background and, above all, a good trading partner by your side, it is not all that
difficult, as Vinit and Anshul Rakyan of
Global Gems (3.1, A33) know. Naturally,
it is also essential to be able to explain
what era the offered object originates
from and what its style and significant
aesthetics are. “However, it is not nec-
essary to have a degree in Art
History, because the eras
often have highly distinctive
characters and style elements that
are easy to assign.” This makes it
simple to communicate the history.
“It’s like buying a classic car,” says
Anshul Rakyan. “There, too, it’s
essential that it appeals to you.
Then it often tells its story all by
itself.” It is also important to know
the individual background of the jewellery, for example who wore it in the
past.
Buying antiques is also a not
uncomplicated matter because, after
all, there are no binding price guidelines and there are also copies of particularly valuable pieces on the market.
Partnership with a reliable trading company is therefore especially important.
Nevertheless, it is also possible to recognise the worth of a piece yourself
with a little experience. “There are
also clear value-determining criteria,
like the 4 Cs in diamond grading,” says
Vinit Rakyan. “The rareness of the
piece, the quality, the genuineness and
the untreated nature of the gemstones
used, the condition and originality of
the piece and the quality of the gold-
DeYoung offers
these emerald earrings
made by Van Cleef & Arpels.
smith work. Only when everything is
right do we truly have a connoisseur
piece on our hands.”
Sam Loxton of Ernst Färber (3.0,
C03) also emphasises the importance of
reliable partners, who keep the dealer
continuously supplied with new goods:
“You really need to work with dealers
you can trust and that help you to nurture your business”. He also states the
need to constantly know the goings-on
in the branch. “Keep your finger on the
pulse,” he advises, “it can really be
costly and you can lose your credibility if you don’t. It’s a small niche and
you are dealing mostly with one-of-akinds so you don’t want to show pieces
that have been seen before.”
Many dealers and end customers
place great value on signings. On the
one hand, these promise fine handcraftsmanship, on the other, they also
give the owner the knowledge that they
are wearing the work of a special artist.
him“Owning a piece made by Cartier him
self is like owning a painting by a famous
artist,” says Janet Levy of The DeYoung
underCollection (3.0, D01). She also under
lines: “It is important to clearly know
his environment and the demands of the
specific customers, as there are so many
different styles and so many kinds of
jewellery in so many variations and price
ranges”. Above all, a good eye and ample
experience is required in order to be
able to assess the value and quality of a
piece correctly. In addition to the historic aspect, it is also this hand craftsmanship quality that distinguishes
antique jewellery: “The degree of artistry is often much higher than with
pieces produced today,” says Janet L.
Levy, “this is why they are often still
wonderfully wearable today. And, of
course, there is the aesthetic appeal,
because many of the pieces from the
great houses had a decisive influence on
the pieces of today”.
80 WORLD OF BASEL
DA I LY N E W S
BOOKS
THE WORLD’S MOST
EXPENSIVE WATCHES
More than a fashion
accessory or means
to tell the time, the
wristwatch
has
become a statement
of identity. “The
World’s
Most
Expensive Watches”
presents some of
the most extravagant, intricate, collectable, or just plain
interesting modern-day timepieces that
sit at the top of the price spectrum.
Starting at an entry price of about
$200.000, it is a trip through the last
decade or so of watches whose values
soar incredibly to prices of $5 million or
more. Additionally, there is a selection of
notable watches that yielded extremely
high prices at auction – many of which
are historically relevant. A stunning collection that is both informative and
entertaining; with detailed descriptions
of individual watches and articles that
usefully deconstruct the price tag with
an explanation of the relevance of craftsmanship and complexity of design, as
well as the importance of exclusivity,
prestige and collectability.
COUNTDOWN
TO THE DV 25
VERSACE MARKS T HE
HOUR OF LUXURY
T
his year, Versace is celebrating
the 25th anniversary of the first
watch designed by Gianni Versace. To build up anticipation ahead of
the launch, the brand produced a teaser
for the DV 25 watch. The timepiece was
finally unveiled at Baselworld by Paolo
Marai, President and CEO of the Timex
Group Swiss Luxury Division: “We’ve
created a watch that represents the
ensemble of all the elements that make
the brand so recognisable.” Each of the
pieces comes with the classic Versace
Greek key, which is symbolic of the legends and mythology that clearly identify
1.1, E67
the house.
Ariel Adams, The World’s Most Expensive Watches,
Antique Collectors’ Club, 324 pages, 456 colour
illustrations, 275 x 325 mm, English, ISBN 978-1851497-54-6, CHF 82.50
SWISS APÉRO
BASLER GOLDSCHMIEDEKUNST
Over the centuries,
Basel has become
one of Europe’s
most
significant
centres of the goldsmithing industry.
This richly illustrated
publication
offers a first overview of the comprehensive and high quality production of
gold and silver items in this city on the
Rhine. It is an essential reference work
for collectors, art enthusiasts and the art
trade. The catalogue presents over 630
selected works from the collections of
the Basel Historical Museum as well as
from various public and private collections. The book supplements the volume “Basler Goldschmiedekunst.
Meister und Marken – 1267 bis heute”
which was first published in 2013. With
its photos of silver and gold produced
especially for the catalogue volume and
its high quality graphics-based design,
this is a striking and significant illustrated volume on Switzerland’s cultural
history.
Ulrich Barth and Christian Hörack, Basler Goldschmiedekunst, Schwabe, 415 pages, over 880 colour
illustrations, 241 x 277 mm, German, ISBN 978-3796532-06-1, CHF 75.00
BOOKSHOP
All books are available at the
bookshop in Hall 2.0, W25 and on
www.watchprint.com
A CHAMPAGNE
MOMENT
A sip of champagne here, a
canapé there: Mido invited
the media to a press cocktail to present its new pieces for 2015. Employees put
the watches on display and
gave the visitors a chance to
see them up close. 1.0, A25B
Swiss watch brand Revue Thommen,
especially known for avation and sport
watches, hosted a cocktail reception,
where CEO Roland Buser officially
launched the new collection and cele2.2, C47
brated with his guests.
FOR EXCLUSIVE VIEWING
[email protected]
84 WORLD OF BASEL
DA I LY N E W S
HIGHLIGHT THE NIGHT
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BASELWORLD Daily News
A publication by Untitled Verlag und
Agentur GmbH & Co. KG
Managing Director:
Dr. Christian Jürgens
T
he after-show chill-out zone
with its eclectic mix of restaurants, bars and lounges is a
unique place to network and party at
the same time. To all those who have
missed out so far, it’s well worth checking out. Today, March 25th, is your last
chance!
Editorial Management:
Mathias Menzel, Caroline Schiedt
tel. +41 61 699 80 57
[email protected]
Editors:
Watches: William George Shuster (wgs), Iris
Wimmer-Olbort (iwi), Sabine Zwettler (sz)
Jewellery: Dr. Roberto Chilleri (rc),
Nina Hald (nh), Axel Henselder (ahe),
Christel Trimborn (cete)
Gemstones: Christoph Hoffmann (ch),
Gary Roskin (gr), Deborah Yonick (dy)
Markets: Axel Henselder (ahe)
Innovations: Pia Grund-Ludwig (pgl),
Markus Strehlitz (ms)
World of Basel: Viktoria Beidinger (vb)
Contributors:
Pooja Agarwal (pa), Gloria Belloni (gb), Carol
Besler (cb), Kyra Brenzinger (kb), David
Brough (db), Elizabeth Doerr (ed), Annalisa
Fontana (af), Roberta Naas (rn)
Art Direction:
Janina Demiana Roll, Kerstin Vorwalter
Layout:
Eva Börger, Martin Tubbesing,
Heike Wahnbaeck
Picture editors:
Tobias Indermühle, Andre Weinberg
Photos:
Hannes Magerstaedt, David Matthiesen,
Volker Renner, Yvonne Schmedemann,
Bernd Wackerbauer
GENER A L INF ORM AT ION
OPENING HOURS
Daily: 9 am – 6 pm
Last day (Thursday, March 26): 9 am – 4 pm
PRICES OF ADMISSION
Day ticket
Eight-day ticket
CHF 60.–
CHF 150.–
CATALOGUE BASELWORLD 2015
The World Watch and Jewellery Show
CHF 40.–
PRESS CENTRE
Hall 1, entrance South on the 1st floor
NEWSCORNER
On the Exhibition Square
Providing all the international daily newspapers, economic journals and selected
fashion and lifestyle magazines, as well
as the complete spectrum of publications
revolving around the watch and jewellery
industry.
BASELWORLD SHOP
On the Exhibition Square
Catalogue Centre, Book Shop,
SBB Swiss Federal Railways, Läckerli-Huus
RAIL
SBB Swiss Federal Railways
Baselworld Shop, on the Exhibition Square
Swiss railway SBB, tel. +41 900 300 300
French railway SNCF, tel. +33 892 35 35 35
German railway DB, tel. +49 1805 99 66 33
AIR TRAVEL SERVICE
Swiss International Air Lines
Reservation Swiss International Air Lines,
tel. +41 848 700 700
Information EuroAirport Basel-MulhouseFreiburg: tel. +41 61 325 31 11
Zurich Airport: tel. 0900 30 03 13
AIRPORT
EuroAirport Basel-Mulhouse-Freiburg
(10 km from Basel city centre) and Zurich
Airport (90 km from Basel city centre).
A shuttle bus service is available which takes
you directly to the Basel Exhibition Centre
from EuroAirport Basel-Mulhouse-Freiburg
(daily from 8.15 am to 7.15 pm) as well as
from Zurich Airport (daily from 7.30 am to
7 pm).
LOST PROPERTY
Hall 2.0
tel. +41 58 206 26 12, fax +41 58 206 20 70
TRAM
Tram stop “Messeplatz”
Trams no. 2 and 1 to SBB and SNCF
railway stations (8 min.)
Trams no. 2 and 6 to German railway
station “Badischer Bahnhof ” (2 min.)
BASEL TOURISM
Tourist Information/Hotel reservation in the
Stadtcasino at
Barfüsserplatz, CH-4010 Basel
tel. +41 61 268 68 68
fax +41 61 268 68 70
[email protected]
www.basel.com
EXHIBITION CUSTOMS OFFICE
Hall 2, Foyer
tel. +41 58 206 21 22
BANK – CHANGE – SAFE
Basler Kantonalbank: Congress Center
branch
UPCOMING DATES
FOR BASELWORLD
March 17 – March 24, 2016
March 23 – March 30, 2017
FREE SHOW GUIDE
FOR SMART PHONES
Translation and Proofreading:
Ad Rem Sprachdienstleistungen,
Amy Brooke, Prisca DeGroat,
Howard Fine, Kenneth Ross
Get the free Baselworld App for your iPhone, iPad, BlackBerry and other smart phones! It contains an interactive 3D
map of the show, visitor information, detailed information
on the exhibitors as well as a selection of articles from the
current Daily News issue.
Advertising:
MCH Swiss Exhibition (Basel) Ltd.
Baselworld
CH-4005 Basel / Switzerland
tel. +41 58 206 22 22
[email protected]
Free download:
baselworld.com/app
Printing:
Vogt-Schild Druck AG
CH-4552 Derendingen
www.vs-druck.ch
GET IN TOUCH WITH BASELWORLD
Join us on Facebook or follow our latest news on Twitter or
Weibo – and interact with us and other visitors!
facebook.com/baselworld
twitter.com/baselworld
weibo.com/baselworld
BASELWORLD VILLAGE: HIGHLIGHT THE NIGHT
Great atmosphere, delicious food, cocktails and live music!
WHEN
Thursday, March 19, 2015 to
Wednesday, March 25, 2015
6 pm to 2 am
WHERE
Binningerstrasse 14
CH-4051 Basel
RESTAURANTS
Osteria Acqua – Italian culinary elixir
in a unique setting
www.acquabasilea.ch
Baracca Zermatt – Enjoy Swiss food
in a chalet-style atmosphere
www.baraccazermatt.ch
We will be pleased to accept your table reservations on tel. +41 61 564 66 66
Publisher’s address:
Untitled Verlag und Agentur
GmbH & Co. KG
Medienpark Kampnagel
Jarrestr. 2
D-22303 Hamburg, Germany
tel. +49 40 189 881-0
fax +49 40 189 881-111
[email protected]
Baselworld Daily News is published by
Untitled Verlag und Agentur GmbH & Co.
KG. Reprints of articles are obtainable on
application to the publisher.
All rights reserved.
Baselworld Daily News may not be
reproduced in any manner of form without
written permission.
EDITORIAL OFFICE
News to share? Contact us!
tel. +41 61 699 80 57
[email protected]
inspired by arctic beauty
B l u e h i g h -t e c h c e r a m i c l i n k
A reflection of the arctic ocean.
W a t c h w i t h s c r a t c h - r e s i s t a n t s a p p h i r e c r y s t a l , m o t h e r o f p e a r l d i a l a n d S W A r o v S k i e l e m e n t S . € 2 9 9.-
v i sit u s in h all 1. 2 at booth e 27
w w w.bering time.com
ACCURACY TAKEN TO NEW DEPTHS
PATRAVI SCUBATEC
Discover the world 500 meters below
its surface. The Patravi ScubaTec diver’s
watch offers a multi adjustable clasp and
an automatic helium release valve to
ensure ultimate comfort and worry free
equalization of pressure. Created with
the highest grade of stainless steel, its
rugged ceramic bezel and blue illuminated hands and dial markers ensure
perfect readability, even at the deepest
depths.
BOUND TO TRADITION – DRIVEN BY INNOVATION
BASELWORLD 2015
HALL 1.0 - PAVILION C33
WWW.CARL-F-BUCHERER.COM

daily news - MCH Group

Transcription

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