Moab, Utah - New York Times

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Moab, Utah
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George Frey for The New York Times
Delicate Arch in Arches National Park.
By CINDY PRICE
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Published: October 14, 2005
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IT'S hard not to become a dime-store philosopher in Moab. With its
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dipping green valleys and great red rocks piercing the wide blue sky,
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this tiny Utah town can be a heady study in perspective. One minute
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you're sipping coffee on Main Street, tucked safely between the wild,
barren Canyonlands National Park and the magnificent stony
surrealism of Arches National Park. A short drive later, you're
thousands of dizzying feet above civilization, the wind whipping you
senseless. The startling beauty of this terrain is enough to leave even
the most seasoned traveler frozen in the sand, blinking in disbelief. Here's a solid tip,
though: after the summer heat winds down and the tourists taper off, Moab is yours for the
taking.
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4. Spouse Courtesy of Mom the Matchmaker
5. Guggenheim Study Suggests Arts Education Benefits Literacy
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Friday
3 p.m.
1) A Delicate Balance
Moab, Utah
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Enlarge This Image
You can look at a million photos of the Delicate Arch (and
you will - it's on every Utah centennial license plate from
1992), but nothing prepares you for the real deal. At Arches
National Park (Highway 191, 435-719-2299, $10 vehicle
admission fee), take the mile-and-a-half hike up steep,
uneven slick rock to hit the landmark just before sunset
(bring a flashlight and plenty of water). The arch doesn't
come into view until the last second, but when it does, it's
unforgettable. Perched on the brink of an enormous
sandstone bowl, you can edge your way around and stand
beneath the massive arch for a picture, but be forewarned -
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Moab, Utah - New York Times
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though the ground there is wider than a Sixth Avenue
sidewalk, the combination of steep drop off, gusty wind and
gleaming sun makes for a dizzying few seconds.
8 p.m.
2) The Barroom Floor
George Frey for The New York Times
In a Tomcar with Crazy Bob.
It's no Las Vegas, but Moab knows how to kick it. Swing by
La Hacienda (574 North Main Street, 435-259-6319), a
townie favorite, for a tasty pair of fried fish tacos ($5).
Afterward, hit World Famous Woody's Tavern (221 South
Main Street; 435-259-9323; $4 membership), where
everyone from local hipsters to vacationing Dutch couples
pull on cold $2 drafts. Some say the floor is painted red to
cover up bloodstains from brawls, but don't be put off - aside
from foosball, Woody's is fairly docile these days.
Saturday
8:30 a.m.
3) Rough Riders
There are gentler ways to take in the lay of the land, but scenic tours are for the birds. At
the Moab Adventure Center (225 South Main Street, 888-622-4097), you can drive a
Tomcar, an off-road vehicle developed for the Israeli Army ($125, $65 for passengers). Ask
for Crazy Bob, and make sure your seat belt is nice and snug. Bob snakes his tour up Seven
Mile Rim's jagged trail, including a few terrifying rocky stretches along the edge of the
cliff. At the top, take a moment to watch the sun work its way up the western sky, slap your
friend on the back and try not to think about how steep it's going to be on the way down.
12:30 p.m.
4) Old School
In a town where scenery looms large, it's easy to drive past the unassuming Milt's Stop &
Eat (356 South 400 East, 435-259-7424). But this little diner, which has been doling out
fresh chili and shakes since 1954, comes through where it counts. Pull up to the counter,
where years of local elbows have worn perfect white circles into the surface. The
mouthwatering double bacon cheeseburger ($4.50) is a greasy-spoon chef-d'oeuvre, with
aged-beef patties and thick slices of smoked bacon. A creamy chocolate malt ($3.25) will
have you cursing the advent of frozen yogurt.
1:30 p.m.
5) Hole Sweet Hole
In 1945, Albert Christensen built his wife, Gladys, the home of their dreams - in the middle
of a rock. Part kitsch memorial, part love story, Hole N" the Rock (11037 South Highway
191, 435-686-2250) is surely a tourist trap, but a heartwarming one. Even the steady drone
of the gum-smacking guide on your tour ($5) can't dispel the sheer marvel of this
5,000-square-foot testament to one man's obsession. It took Albert 12 years to hand-drill,
and Gladys another 8 to give it a woman's touch. Each room is lovingly preserved with
knick-knacks or Albert's taxidermy. Outside, wander over to the inexplicable but equally
delightful petting zoo filled with llamas, emus and wallabies.
3:30 p.m.
6) Main Street
Like most small towns with attitude, Moab has a main street that's pretty darn cute. Start
your walk with an iced coffee ($1.50) and a fresh slice of quiche ($5.75) at EklectiCafé
(352 North Main Street, 435-259-6896). For a quick lesson on local topography, check out
the area relief map at the Museum of Moab (118 East Center Street, 435-259-7985). If
you're lucky, you'll find the charming 87-year-old Virginia Fossey manning the information
desk, whence she's been dishing insider history for 48 years.
6 p.m.
7) World's Biggest Stage Set
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Moab, Utah - New York Times
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Head out of town, hang a right at Scenic Byway 128, drive 18 miles and take a right on La
Sal Mountain Road toward Castle Valley. The pretty, winding route leads to Castle Rock a dead ringer for Disney's Big Thunder Mountain Railroad and the star of old Chevrolet
commercials. Turn around at Castleton Tower and drop into Red Cliffs Lodge (Mile Post
14, Scenic Byway 128, 866-812-2002) for a free wine tasting at the Castle Creek Winery.
Afterward, check out the Movie Museum in the basement - a small homage to the countless
films shot in Moab, including "Rio Grande" and "Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade."
8 p.m.
8) Foodie Revolution
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Moab, Utah
Published: October 14, 2005
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Moab has never been especially known for its culinary prowess, but a
couple of heavy-hitting chefs in town are changing the rules. Grab a
glass of wine at the Center Café (60 North 100 West, 435-259-4295)
and head out to the secluded courtyard. A recent menu carried fat
pockets of ravioli stuffed with sweet potato and goat cheese ($10) in
sage brown-butter. For an entree, a fresh, flaky square of halibut on a
bed of potato latkes was finished with a basil crab hollandaise ($28),
perfect for mopping up with those latkes.
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Sunday
7 a.m.
9) Dawn on the Cliffs
George Frey for The New York Times
Hole N' the Rock was built by
Albert Christensen for his wife,
Gladys.
There are few reasons to endorse waking up at 7 on a
Sunday, but a sunrise at Dead Horse Point passes the test. Hit
the Wicked Brew Drive Thru (132 North Main Street,
435-259-0021) for a Shot-in-the-Dark ($2.50) - a coffee and
double shot of espresso. Take the winding drive up Route
313 to the 2,000-foot vantage point at Dead Horse Point
State Park (435-259-2614, $7 car fee) and watch the sun
break over the vast, beautiful Canyonlands. To the west, look
for Shafer Trail, the dusty road where Thelma and Louise
sealed their fate in the 1991 Ridley Scott film.
11:45 a.m.
10) Rapid Observations
Moab, Utah
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In the 70's, before Moab became known as the
mountain-biking capital of the world, whitewater rafting was
the big buzz. Red River Adventures (1371 North Main
Street, 877-259-4046; $40 a person for a half-day trip) offers
traditional raft trips, above, as well as guided tours using
inflatable kayaks (called "Duckies" for the way kayakers line
them up single file to enter a rapid). In the fall, the Colorado
River is at low water, a perfect run for beginners. Winding
through the slack waters between rapids, the guides point out
dinosaur tracks or wax poetic on the land. "See those trees
up there?" the guide and owner, Carl Dec, begins. "Those are
40-foot pine trees, and they look like shrubs. Your
perspective here is just so ... ." Then, leaning back and
looking upward, he says to no one in particular, "Well, you
have no perspective."
•
George Frey for The New York Times
Past 24 Hours | Past 7 Days
The Basics
1. Drug Makers Pay for Lunch as They Pitch
2. Communal Yoga Mats: Beware of Germs
Moab is 235 miles southeast of Salt Lake City. Salmon Air
7/28/2006 2:05 PM
Moab, Utah - New York Times
2 of 2
http://travel2.nytimes.com/2005/10/14/travel/escapes/14hour.html?page...
(800-448-3413, www.salmonair.com) runs daily flights out of Salt Lake City, but the
four-hour drive is both scenic and practical, as you'll need a car when you're in Moab.
3. Changing Reaction: Tide of Arab Opinion Turns to Support for
Hezbollah
4. Guggenheim Study Suggests Arts Education Benefits Literacy
The Sunflower Hill Inn (185 North 300 East, 800-662-2786) is a lovely restored inn with
12 rooms that start at $135. The romantic French Bedroom is $205 a night.
The Gonzo Inn (100 West 200 South, 800-791-4044) is a colorful retro-styled hotel. Each
of its 43 rooms is uniquely decorated; they are $135 to $299.
Skills
5. Spouse Courtesy of Mom the Matchmaker
Go to Complete List
The Red Cliffs Lodge (Mile Post 14, Scenic Byway 128, 866-812-2002) is a handsome
ranch-turned-resort overlooking the Colorado River. It's a 20-minute drive from town; its
80 rooms start at $170.
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Charles Taylor's
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Making of a Toddler
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The Bounty
Rise and Fall
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Composer
of Rome
Copyright 2005 The New York Times Company
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