plenty of room in a new home

Transcription

EDITORIAL
28.
SUNDAY, APRIL
The Rolex stand is
one of the busiest
places in Hall 1.0.
HIGHLIGHTS
02 INCREASING
INDEPENDENCE
On behalf of the MCH Group I’d like
to welcome you to BASELWORLD
2013, the World Watch and Jewellery Show. It is a special pleasure
and with great pride that I can do so
this year. This year’s show is the
beginning of a new era: BASELWORLD 2013 will set new standards in the exhibition industry.
We, as the organisers, always
have the duty to guarantee that this
exceptional platform meets the
requirements of our customers. The
new hall complex designed by Basel
architects Herzog & de Meuron is a
consummate blend of functionality
and esthetics.
The large continuous areas in
Hall 1 enable flexible space management. And visitors will also benefit from the more concentrated
exhibition area. With the new building, we created the necessary conditions to ensure that BASELWORLD
can continue to develop successfully as the world’s leading watch
and jewellery show.
I wish you all – visitors, exhibitors and journalists – an enjoyable
and this year certainly a memorable
stay in Basel.
René Kamm
CEO MCH Group
Chopard’s Co-President
Karl-Friedrich Scheufele talks
about the rising production of
manufacture movements.
04 BACK IN BASEL
PLENTY OF ROOM
IN A NEW HOME
A GRAND PRESENCE IN BASEL: NEW WATCHES FROM ROLEX
by Iris Wimmer-Olbort
A
spectacular presence
and classic watches in
new guises: Rolex
unveils the luxurious
variant of the legendary
Daytona and a new GMT-Master II
in its totally new stand at BASELWORLD.
With three floors with a luxurious ambience and a new design,
Rolex presents itself and its products
at a completely new stand. The
stand reflects this brand’s contemporary elegance through the use of
modern materials and typical Rolex
motifs, some of which refer to the
ocean. The architecture is impres-
sive, and so too are the dimensions.
The stand’s area is larger than ever
and an upper storey has been added.
The floor space of the resulting
stand is more than twice as large as
in previous years.
There’s plenty of room here for
grandiose new timepieces. For
example, the latest version of the
Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona adds another chapter to the
history of a classic watch which is
all the more renowned thanks to its
affiliation with Paul Newman. A
noble variant debuts for this model,
which was introduced exactly 50
years ago. For the first time ever, this
legendary chronograph is now
available in an all-platinum case
with an ice-blue dial, a brown Cerachrom monoblock tachymeter bezel and Rolex’s self-winding chronograph calibre 4130.
The new Oyster Perpetual GMTMaster II likewise boasts a Cerachrom bezel, which appears in a
bicolour version here for the first
time. Combining blue and black was
a challenging task which the manufacture mastered to create an absolutely perfect look. Also perfect – the
simultaneous display of the time in
two different zones by Rolex’s selfwinding calibre 3186.
1.0, A11
Michele Sofisti, Sowind
Group’s CEO, discusses
the company’s return to
BASELWORLD.
10 ACCESSIBLE
LUXURY
Frédérique Constant’s
CEO Peter Stas shares
company and product
news for 2013.
49 VERY BRITISH
UK luxury designer Stephen
Webster enjoys BASELWORLD for the 15th time.
71 HIGH DEMAND FOR
LASER SINTERING
The first solutions for
platinum are shown here at
BASELWORLD.
75 A WILD AND
LUCKY DISCOVERY
Paul Wild tells us what
Rolex Oyster Perpetual
Cosmograph Daytona.
surprises Mother Nature
can yield.
LA MONTRE HERMÈS IN DESIGNER DOMICILE
HEARD IN BASEL
CEO LUC PERRAMOND ON THE DEEPER MEANING BEHIND HERMÈS’ SPECTACULAR NEW STAND
Interview by Elizabeth Doerr
A
ward-winning architect Toyo
Ito has designed the new
Hermès stand as a welcoming space that allows the visitor to
enter the luxurious world of Hermès. Designed in the vein of the
alluring Rive Gauche boutique, it
feels almost like a contemporary
museum.
“BASELWORLD is
the best occasion to
celebrate our 125th
anniversary and to
present our brand
new corporate identity to a worldwide
public.”
Adrian Bosshard, Certina President.
Luc Perramond, CEO,
La Montre Hermès.
BWDN: Hermès’ new booth is
certainly one of the most talked
about here at BASELWORLD…
Luc Perramond: We absolutely
wanted the Hermès pavilion to
express our fundamental values:
craftsmanship, a commitment to
work carried out by hand, and the
noble elegance of natural materials
such as wood, an appreciation of
time, precision and innovation. By
opting for lightness and openness,
Hermès has created a serene and
welcoming space at the heart of
BASELWORLD.
Why did you choose Toyo Ito as
its architect?
Hermès’ artistic director PierreAlexis Dumas and Toyo Ito met in
late 2010 at the second Prix Émile
Hermès event, a design prize awarded by the Fondation d’Entreprise
Hermès. An environmentally-aware
approach emphasising the value of
expertise is something that Hermès
and Toyo Ito share.
What is its deeper meaning?
The pavilion’s design is organic,
brought to life with movement akin
to the swell of the sea. Its skin of
wooden shafts moves with broad,
dynamic undulations. Naturally
dyed fabrics, so evocative of the
world of Hermès, line the spaces like
tree bark, giving a sense of warmth
and intimacy. The corridor of natural-element greenery leaves our visitors feeling as they were at home in
a warm atmosphere.
1.1, B55
02 WATCHES
SUNDAY, APRIL 28.2013
NEWS
CONTENTS
01 WATCHES
02 Chopard / Zenith
04 Girard-Perregaux / Omega
09 Watchmaking Delights /
Breitling
10 Frédérique Constant / Sarcar
15 Trends for China: Bulgari /
TAG Heuer / Hermès / Chanel
16 Chronographs /
Jacob. & Co. 21 Certina / Gc
22 RJ-Romain Jerome / Rado
26 Moon Phase / Invicta
29 Tendence / Miki Eleta
30 Aigner / Auguste Reymond
34 Clocks / Pierre Lannier
37 Fashion / Rodania
38 Peter Speake-Marin / Cyrus /
De Bethune
02 MARKETS
42 India
45 Japan / Public Relations
03 JEWELLERY
49 Stephen Webster / Frank Trautz
50 Meister / Swarovski
52 German Finest / Jacob & Co.
55 de Grisogono / Di.go
56 Pasquale Bruni /
Marcel Robbez Masson
58 Baccarat / Vhernier
62 Shamballa / Pearl Trends
64 Mimí / Clioro / Ernst Stein
67 Trend: Precious Metals
04 INNOVATIONS 71
72
3D Prototypes /
Witschi / Roxer
Rapid Prototyping /
Workbenches
05 GEMSTONES
75 Paul Wild / Spinel
76 Opals
81 Jade / Groh+Ripp
06 WORLD OF BASEL
82 Schreiner / BASELWORLD
Village / Chesley Sullenberger / Eric Salla
84 New Books / Cocktail Night
07 SERVICE
86 Floor plan / General
information / Imprint
An ePaper edition of the
BASELWORLD Daily News is also
available for download from
www.baselworld.com
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Karl-Friedrich Scheufele,
Co-President of Chopard.
FINE MECHANICAL
TIMEKEEPING FOR
MEN AND WOMEN
KARL-FRIEDRICH SCHEUFELE IS PLEASED TO
PRESENT EXCITING NEW WATCHES
Interview by Iris Wimmer-Olbort
C
hopard’s versatile new
watches include intricate complications and
sport watches with own
movements. Chopard
also celebrates the Happy Sport’s
anniversary by launching a first
mechanical version.
BWDN: We’re meeting at the
familiar location in Hall 1.0, but
in new surroundings. What can
visitors look forward to at Chopard’s stand?
Karl-Friedrich Scheufele: We are
proud to welcome our customers to
a totally new pavilion. It was
designed by Thierry W. Despont,
who also created a
new concept for the
Chopard boutiques.
The pavilion’s exterior is inspired by
our boutique in
New York. The
design of its interior spaces likewise
reflects the styling
of
our
shops,
although
we’ve
kept the original round hall that
opens onto the upper levels. It’s a
popular meeting place and the signature of our space.
BASELWORLD is at the top of the
pyramid – and the surroundings,
both inside and outside, confirm
this position.
For the first time, you’re showing
several models encasing movements from Fleurier Ebauches.
What sort of newcomers are they?
The movements for the new watches in the Superfast collection are all
produced in-house, at our Fleurier
Ebauches Manufacture. We offer
three stainless steel versions: a
chronograph, a chronometer with a
power-reserve display, and a selfwinding model with a slightly
smaller diameter.
The new look of
these watch movements is inspired
by the world of the
automobile. We are
now prepared to
produce
these
movements in a
larger
numbers
which is a big step
forward for us. Other existing collection also use movements from Fleurier Ebauches –
these are classical models and
watches in the Imperiale line. We
are even showing a new jewelled
Imperiale watch, featuring a Fleurier Ebauches movement. Our goal
is to annually produce between ten
and fifteen thousand movements
three years from now at Fleurier
Ebauches.
“Our aim is to
annually produce
ten to fifteen thousand movements
three years from
now at Fleurier
Ebauches.”
What does the expansion at
BASELWORLD mean for you?
The architecture of the new hall
reflects its unique status among all
the other events in our industry.
What’s new from the Chopard
Manufacture, where fine haute
horlogerie movements are created?
Our most complicated newcomer is
the L.U.C Perpetual T with perpetual calendar and tourbillon. Two
interesting features here are the
dial’s optimal legibility and the
extra-long power reserve of 116
hours. The latter is possible thanks
to our unique four barrel concept.
Another new model is the L.U.C
Engine One H in horizontal format.
It required profound changes in its
movement compared to the initial
Engine One in its vertical execution.
Both newcomers embody the tradition of haute horlogerie and the
pleasure that we derive from innovation.
Those are marvellous watches for
gents. What new items are you
offering for ladies?
The 20th anniversary of the Happy
Sport collection takes centre stage
this year. At long last, we’re releasing a mechanical version of the
Happy Sport with a self-winding
movement which is visually very
harmonious. This watch will surely
be a success because of markedly
stronger demand for mechanical
watches, especially from clientele
in the Far East.
1.0, D15
Chopard Happy Sport.
JAQUET DROZ – The Petite Heure
Minute 35 marks the first time Jaquet
Droz has created a women’s watch in
steel. It is complemented by a motherof-pearl dial, delicately engraved to
catch the light and appear to be several colours, from royal blue to cobalt
or indigo. Diamonds are set into the
dial, representing eight stars, a brand
signature. The bezel is set with another
160 diamonds and the bracelet is subtly asymmetrical, with varying-sized
links and a Jaquet Droz 2653 automatic movement. (cb)
1.0, C25
ZENITH
TAKES OFF
NEW MODELS AUGMENT THE
LINE OF PILOTS’ WATCHES
by Iris Wimmer Olbort
Zenith Montre
d’Aéronef Type
20 GMT.
T
he
Swiss
manufacture
expands its Pilot collection,
which continued time-honoured traditions with its release last
year. The Pilot recalls the close affiliation that Zenith has cultivated with
aviation for over 100 years. Zenith is
proud to be the only brand with the
right to inscribe the word “Pilot” on
its dials. These new watches are well
worth careful scrutiny. The debutantes are the Montre d’Aéronef Type
20 GMT with an additional 24-hour
display to indicate the time in a second zone, an annual calendar model, a tourbillon wristwatch, and a
Pilot variant for ladies. Pilot GMT
has a new 48-mm diameter stainless
steel case in which automatic calibre
Elite 693 performs its timekeeping
duties. Typical for a pilots’ watch are
the large Arabic numerals with
Super-LumiNova coating and a
boldly dimensioned crown. The Pilot
GMT model is augmented by the
Baron Rouge, which debuts in a limited edition of 500 watches in black
titanium with red accents. 1.0, D05
EYJAFJALLAJÖ...
WHAT ?
No need to be ashamed, RJ-Romain Jerome does
not know how to pronounce its name either ! With
the limited Eyjafjallajökull-DNA collection, RJ-Romain Jerome
evokes the powerful, unstoppable and spectacular forces of nature.
The Eyjafjallajökull-DNA timepiece has this incredible strength
deeply embedded in it and is made from authentic rock and ash
from the volcano. Who knows when the next eruption will happen ?
All we can say is that the 198 pieces are sold out !
HALL 1.1 / BOOTH A55
www.romainjerome.ch
04 WATCHES
NEWS
“We enjoy the
fact to be back at
the show and to
be together with
the other Group’s
brands.”
HARRY WINSTON – A jumping
hour is a charming complication.
Instead of being indicated by an hour
hand, the hour is indicated inside a
window, where a numeral jumps forward every 60 minutes. Harry Winston’s new Ocean Tourbillon Jumping
Hour also eliminates a conventional
minute hand and indicates the minutes via a red arrow on a calibrated
subdial. It is shifted out of the main
dial’s centre to make room for another complication in the lower half of
the gold case, where a tourbillon
whirls between two sapphire crystal
panes. (iwi)
1.1, D51
column-wheel chronograph with
manual winding and one of the
smallest calibres for an automatic
lady watch. All this is possible
thanks to the passionate work of
our team, of our watch makers and
the respect we have for the company history.
Michele Sofisti, CEO of
the Sowind Group.
RACE SPIRIT
TUDOR’S NEW
FASTRIDER BLACK SHIELD
by Iris Wimmer-Olbort
D
ynamism, speed and the colour black inspired Tudor’s
designers to create the new
Fastrider Black Shield chronograph.
The material basks in the limelight
here: skilfully crafted ceramic forms
this watch’s matte black case. The
middle piece of the case is made
from a single piece of ceramic, as is
the bezel with its tachymeter scale.
These components were challenging
to fabricate, but the welcome result
is an uncommonly robust construction. One model relies on red accents
to highlight the predominantly black
look; a second variant adds pizzazz
with bronze-coloured hands and
appliqués. The handsome appearance continues with a rubber strap,
an ordinary leather wristband or an
Alcantara leather band. Tudor collaborated with its partner Ducati to
design this chronograph, so a Diavel
Carbon motorcycle was also created
along with the watch. Matte black
with red accents, this racy and
unique motorbike can be admired at
Tudor’s stand.
1.0, A11
“STRONG BASE FOR
OUR FUTURE”
MICHELE SOFISTI, CEO OF THE SOWIND GROUP, ABOUT
THE WORLD OF GIRARD-PERREGAUX
Interview by Iris Wimmer-Olbort
W
ith an impressive
technical innovation, Girard-Perregaux celebrates
its attendance at
BASELWORLD. Since 2011, the
Sowind Group’s brand has been
under the umbrella of Kering Group
and exhibits together with the other
watch brands of the Group, Jean
richard, Boucheron and Gucci.
BWDN: Which position has
Girard-Perregaux in this quartet?
Michele Sofisti: I believe that GP
represents one of the high-end
manufacturing company of the
With an impressive technical
innovation,
Girard-Perregaux
underlines the claim to belong to
the world of Haute Horlogerie.
Can you share details?
The fact that GP belongs to the few
pure integrated watch manufactures is something already acquired
since long time. Every year, the
brand has been able to show innovation or important evolution in its
collection of time pieces.
This year, we come with a very
revolutionary technical solution,
the constant escapement, in a completely new model of rare value. We
are very proud of it because it is the
result of years of R&D and of investment in advanced technical solutions. What we present can count
among the few pure innovations of
the industry in the last years. We are
also presenting our first integrated
MODERN ALCHEMY
OMEGA PRESENTS SEDNA GOLD
by Sabine Zwettler
O
Tudor Fastrider Black Shield.
watch industry. Over 200 years of
activity without interruptions, with
constant innovations and technological solution to improve the ways
watch making works. We are coming this year to Basel with a very
rich portfolio of new products and
technological innovations, too,
which remains in the pure tradition
of the brand.
Chrono Hawk
Ceramic.
mega introduces a new alloy
that combines gold (75%),
copper and palladium. The
intense pink colour of Sedna gold
results from its admixed copper. The
addition of palladium assures that
the gold’s ruddy hue is especially
durable. This alloy, which debuts in
the case of the new Constellation
Sedna, is named after a distant planetoid with one of the most reddishcoloured surfaces in our solar sys-
tem. Watches in this line, which
debuted in 1952, are distinguished
by the polished middle pieces of
their cases and by bezels with
Roman numerals. This new ladies’
watch is manufactured in a limited
edition of 1,952 timepieces, each
encasing legendary Co-Axial calibre
8501 with Omega’s own silicon balance-spring. The Constellation Sedna reaches for the stars, but it’s also
watertight to ten bar.
1.0, C25
Omega Constellation Sedna.
You created other complications
and beautiful classical timepieces. Which one is your favourite?
It is very difficult to answer this
question because there are good
reasons to get passionate about a lot
of different models in our collection. Each product family has a
detail or a particularity which
makes it a special unique piece.
I like particularly our new Hawk
collection but this also because I
love sport watches which better
represent my personality.
In all different product families
we introduce at the show this year,
are some new models and this will
enrich our collection and create the
first strong base for our future. I
believe that we are having a very
interesting and appealing collection
to show in Basel.
Girard-Perregaux has returned to
the show and experiences a brilliant redesign. How do you like
the new BASELWORLD?
We enjoy the fact to be back at the
show and to be together with the
other Group’s brands. We think
that this is an important statement.
In particular for our Jeanrichard
brand, Basel is the perfect fit to
meet retailers, distributors and the
press. We have a completely new
stand, which will express our new
modern personality. All materials
to show our products have been
redesigned and created to give a
touch of modernity and good
feeling to Girard-Perregaux and
Jeanrichard.
1.0, D49
80 hours on your side
TissoT Luxury AuTomATic
An exceptional and timeless piece offering 80 hours
of power reserve with a revolutionary COSC
certified Powermatic 80 movement, in a 316L stainless
steel casing with see-through caseback
and water resistance up to 5 bar (50 m / 165 ft).
in TOUCH wiTH yOUr Time
Get in touch at www.tissot.ch
WitneSS the greAt tiSSOt mOmentS in time On mOndAy 29th Of APriL 2013,
At the SWAtChgrOuP StAnd PLAzA, BASeLWOrLd!
Rodania Swiss Chic collection · Model ‘Elios Silk’ · Ref. 25057.22 · Ronda 751 Swiss Quartz movement ·
Stainless steel case Ø 28 mm · Extra white mother-of-pearl dial · 1 full cut diamond 0,0049 ct ·
Pink silky leather strap · Sapphire crystal · WR 5 ATM
www.rodania.com · [email protected] ·
facebook.com/RodaniaWatches
HAll 1.2 STAnd B03
Automatique
Hall 1.2
Booth D13 - E13
Creation by Sarcar / Photo Marian Gérard
Creator of dreams
G U É PA R D • R e d G o l d 18 c a r a t s w i t h D i a m o n d s a n d a s p l e n d i d m a r q u e t r y - w o r k d i a l
SARCAR TRAMEX SA • Geneva • Switzerland
Switzerland • UK • USA • Colombia • Bahrain • Kuwait • Qatar • Saudi Arabia • UAE • Russia • China • Hong Kong • Taiwan • Japan • Singapore • Indonesia • Malaysia • Thailand • Vietnam
Visit us at our booth A12 in the Hall of Dreams or www.sarcar.com
WATCHES 09
ORIS
ON TOUR
VINTAGE CHRONOGRAPH
TO HONOUR A RALLY FOR
CLASSIC MOTORCARS
by Sabine Zwettler
Oris Calobra Limited Edition.
A
s new sponsor of the “Rally
Clásico Isla Mallorca” for
classic motorcars, Oris rolls
up to the starting line on the island
of Mallorca with a chronograph in a
limited edition of 1,000 watches.
Classic automobiles inspired this
timepiece’s racy design. The stainless steel case of the Calobra Limited Edition has a bidirectionally
rotatable bezel made of black
ceramic coated with rubber for a
better grip. The matte silver outer
ring of the bipartite dial is marked
with a tachymeter scale to calculate
average speeds. The elegant matteblack dial boldly contrasts with
Superluminova-coated
Arabic
numerals and a special subdial for
the seconds at 9 o’clock: the ensemble conveys the sporty look of a
racecar’s dashboard. On the back of
this watch, fans of old-time motorcars will find an engraving of a
“necktie’s knot”, which symbolises
the serpentine roads of Calobra,
where this rally is staged. This
motoring theme continues onto the
black leather wristband with its
high-contrast red holes, which
allude to timepieces used by racecar drivers of yesteryear. The stainless steel case is watertight to ten
atmospheres and encloses automatic calibre Oris 774, which is based
on a Sellita SW 500.
1.1, D55
Ulysse Nardin
Stranger.
Traditional brand Blancpain adds a noble Grand Complication
to its collection in Hall 1 at BASELWORLD.
Blancpain Le Brassus
Tourbillon Carrousel.
WATCHMAKING
DELIGHTS
THE NEWEST COMPLEX CALIBRES UNVEILED HERE
AT BASELWORLD
by Roberta Naas
F
rom repeaters to musical
watches, from tourbillons to ultra-slow (yes,
slow) balance frequency
– watchmakers are pulling out all the stops when it comes
to creativity this year. The results
are both alluring and intriguing.
Easily one of the most beautiful
watches to both see and hear here
at BASELWORLD is the Ulysse Nardin Stranger. This unusual musical
wrist watch plays the 1966 classic
WATCH TO WATCH
song, “Strangers in the Night.” The
watch emulates a classic music box
and plays the heart-wrenching song
either on demand (with the push of
button) or on the hour. The action of
the music box mechanism can be
viewed through the sapphire crystal. The masterpiece was five years
in the development stages, and is a
harmonic blend of time, music, aesthetics and function. In this
mechanical self-winding music
watch, Ulysse Nardin takes repeat-
ers to an all new level –
incorporating silicium
technology
for
the
escapement and anchor.
The UN 690 movement
enables the wearer to set
the time via a pusher
instead of the traditional
crown setting. The watch bears the
signature of musician Dieter Meier,
who partnered with the brand for
this creation. Just 99 pieces will be
made.
MUSICAL MARVELS
Also offering music to the ears is
Tutima. This German brand has
delved ever more deeply into the
world of complexities since opening
its state-of-the-art new factory in
Glashütte. Its Hommage Minute
Repeater houses the newly refined
Calibre 800, with rose gold surfaces
on the plates and bridges. The strik-
ing mechanism for the minute
repeaters bears Tutima’s historical
insignia and the entire movement is
made in house.
TWICE AS GOOD
Blancpain’s horological treat this
year is a new model in the Le
Brassus collection combining two
famed complications, the tourbillon
and the carrousel, both of which
reduce the gravity’s effects on a
mechanical movement. The tour
billon is centre-staged at 12 o’clock,
the carrousel at 6 o’clock, and a date
wheel at 3 o’clock. The two independent carriages are linked by a
differential gear system, which
transmits the average rate of both to
the time display. The watch amasses an amazing seven-day power
reserve and features a sapphire
crystal caseback revealing the meticoulus mechanism within.
FIRST-CLASS FEMININITY
Hublot
King Power Black Mamba
Movement
HUB 4248c, automatic
Functions
hour, minute, second, chronograph, date
Case material
ceramic
Case dimensions
48 mm
Special features
open-worked dial with snake motif and 4
12-minutes zones, water resistant to 100
metres, transparent case back
Place to watch: 1.0, A05
BREITLING INTRODUCES THE TRANSOCEAN CHRONOGRAPH FOR LADIES
by Sabine Zwettler
W
ith its understated design, Breit
ling’s Transocean watch offers a
contemporary stylistic interpretation of the aesthetic of 1950s and 1960s
chronographs. An example of fine workmanship, this model has established itself
as a new classic combining prestige and
distinction. In 2013, Breitling augments its
collection with a 38-mm diameter ladies’
chronograph. With its pure lines accentuated by a bevelled bezel and slender lugs, the
case comes in a choice of steel or 18K red
gold. The dials are adorned with applied
hour markers and have hollowed counters
featuring a spiral motif. They’re available in
three colours: black, silver and midnight
blue. The case’s back is engraved with the
two stylized planes that were a long-time
Breitling symbol, as was the initial “B” in
18K gold enhancing the dial. Barenia or
crocodile-skin straps offer a wide selection
of vivid or classic hues, while a steel mesh
bracelet lends a touch of boldness. The lady
is powered by an self-winding chronograph
movement with a chronometer certificate
from the COSC institute.
1.0, C31
Breitling Transocean.
10 WATCHES
NEWS
TIMEPIECE
TREASURE
WATCHMAKER BRINGS
BEAUTY AND ROYALTY
by William George Shuster
LOUIS VUITTON releases a Tambour model for women: the Tambour
Monogram, which boasts a new case
shape. In diamond-set stainless steel
or rose gold, it is available in seven
references and sizes ranging from 28
to 38 mm. The smaller sizes (28 and
33 mm) in stainless steel are quartzpowered, while the larger 35 and 38
mm rose gold models boast an automatic movement with a tourbillon.
(ed)
1.0, D05
Sarcar Treasure Elephant.
Peter Stas, CEO,
Frédérique Constant.
EXPANDING SALES
OF ACCESSIBLE LUXURY
FRÉDÉRIQUE CONSTANT INTRODUCES NO LESS THAN 50 NEW PIECES THIS YEAR
Interview by Carol Besler
WATCH TO WATCH
Hamilton
Khaki Pilot Pioneer
Auto Chrono
Movement
H-31 automatic
Functions
hour, minute, second, date, chronograph
Case material
stainless steel
Case dimensions
41 mm
Special features
water resistance 10 atmospheres,
see-through case back, crownprotection
Place to watch: 1.0, A25
P
eter Stas is the founder
and CEO of Frédérique
Constant, an independent
family-owned
watch
manufacturer based in
Plan-les-Ouates, Geneva. He is
involved in all stages of watch production, from initial design to final
assembly and quality control. He
shares product and company news
with BWDN.
BWDN: How many watches are
you producing this year? What
percentage of them contain inhouse movements?
Peter Stas: We are now producing
over 120,000 watches annually, and
for 2013, it may be slightly higher.
Of those, 15 to 20 percent are produced with in-house manufacture
calibres. We have heavily invested
in additional production capacity in
2012, and quantities are expected to
increase. At the same time, we continue to build beautiful watches
around Sellita and Ronda calibres.
Lastly, we are working on the all
important components for the
assortment, and prototypes are now
running in test calibres, another
step to full independence from ETA/
Nivarox.
What were the highlights of the
year for Frédérique Constant?
We have had another year of doubledigit growth. We have been able to
attract new, highquality customers
and
we
have
improved our presence around the
world. In the current economic climate, we expect to
be able to attract
more
high-end
retailers with our
accessible luxury
positioning.
A highlight for Frédérique Constant
this year was indeed the Entrepreneur of the Year Award. We also
won a Centurion Design Award, and
furthered our partnerships with the
World Heart Federation and the
Riva (Boats) Historical Society.
How many points of sale are there
now for Frédérique Constant?
Frédérique Constant watches are
currently sold in
over 2,600 points
of sale in more
than 100 countries.
We aim to continue
to grow our representation around
the world with
high-quality customers who can
benefit from strong
sales of Frédérique Constant accessible luxury watches.
“We expect to be
able to attract
more high-end
retailers with our
accessible luxury
positioning.”
You were named Entrepreneur of
the Year by the European Tech
Tour Association. Were there other prizes, too?
Frédérique Constant Runabout Moonphase Limited Edition Riva Historical Society.
Can you tell us something about
the highlights of this year’s introductions at BASELWORLD?
2013 is an exciting year for us, with
the introduction of over 50 new
watch references. Highlights are the
new Manufacture Moonphase, a
beautiful interpretation of a 1930s’
popular design, the Double Heart
Beat World Heart Federation, a new
version in our best selling Ladies
Automatic collection, the Runabout
Riva Historical Society, an automatic date-pointer moonphase men’s
watch and a new Healey Chronograph Limited Edition in our Vintage Rally collection.
1.1, B79
S
wiss luxury watchmaker Sarcar Tramex SA of Geneva,
Switzerland, combines the
newest technology with traditional
horological expertise to create
exquisite limited series.
For BASELWORLD 2013, it
unveils several notable timepieces.
Its new collections’ theme is “Happiness and Good Luck,” as represented by the Ladybird watch in its
Divas series or the Lucky Symbol in
its Magic Moon line.
The standout, however, is the
Treasure Elephant, a magnificent
jewellery watch in its Treasure collection. The 18K pink gold limited
edition (9) timepiece is set with
high-quality diamonds, including a
1 ct. rotating solitaire, Sarcar’s signature.
In choosing the elephant, Sarcar
designers were “inspired by symbolic aspects of this majestic creature ... in harmony with our philosophy,” said a Sarcar spokesperson.
The company motto is, “Be large
enough to be strong and small
enough to be free.” No animal exemplifies that better than the elephant,
he noted.
Sarcar’s new stand for BASELWORLD 2013 was inaugurated by
the Queen Mother of Bhutan. “This
is a very important event for us,
because Sarcar has a strong position
in Asia’s watch market, and Her Majesty is very popular there,” said the
brand’s spokesman.
1.0, A12
Queen Mother of Bhutan inaugurated
Sarcar’s stand at BASELWORLD on Thursday, 25 April.
Photo : Alexandre Issard
Brand Fact
Made history by launching
36 timepieces to the Edge of Space.
View the documentary and see the recovered watches
at the Invicta stand.
the Invicta Subaqua Specialty Black Label
invictawatch.com
HALL 1.2 . BOOTHS E53 & E60
WATCHES 15
以“表”会友以友辅仁
2013BASELWORLD表海撷英
文/任强
BASELWORLD好像一场盛会，吸
引全世界制表师、经销商以及媒体的
目光。中国《论语》有句古语称：“
君子以文会友、以友辅仁”，意思
是：“君子常常通过文化与思想结交
朋友，又通过朋友辅助仁德”。不难
理解，BASELWORLD这个全球腕表
珠宝界规模最大的展会也是一次思想
交流的盛会，业界新老朋友结交的聚
会。今年可谓是BASELWORLD新生
之年，不但场馆有所扩建，更重要的
是一些办展理念上的转变。当然，对
于中国媒体来说，深刻感受到的还有
BASELWORD官方对中国媒体更热情
的关注。这一点可以从中国媒体专场
新闻发布会与首份官方报纸中文版面
见得。为此，首先感谢此刊的邀请，
也非常荣幸在此跟大家分享，也算
以“表”会友、以友辅仁。
不得不说，豪雅在中国市场凭借
陈道明代言使品牌在精准计时的运动
腕表定位之外，更成为社会中坚阶层
勇于挑战、不断进取的精神象征。近
年来，数次对传统制表技艺及精准计
时的挑战让业界刮目相看（2011年，
推出世界首款能够显示1/1000秒的机
械计时码表Mikrotimer Flying 1000
概念腕表；2012年再次重磅推出精确
至5/10000秒的Mikrogirder，一举获
得2012日内瓦钟表大奖最高荣誉金手
指大奖）。这使得在市场定位上价格
更易于接受的豪雅深受中国市场的青
睐。
复杂功能女性腕表
概念计时码表
今年恰逢豪雅卡莱拉50周年，又
一枚突破常规的完全碳基复合材料新
材质腕表——TAG Heuer Carrera
Carbon Calibre 1887概念计时码表
横空出世。此表款仅重19克！以闻名
于F1方程式赛车和航空领域的碳基复
合材料为基体，表款展现极致轻盈的
同时，更具有令人吃惊的抗压耐磨能
力。值得一提的是，此概念计码表大
胆启用了设计独特的卡莱拉Mikrogirder（荣获2012日内瓦高级钟表大奖
表款）广受褒奖的表壳。该表壳采用
不对称设计，由上至下呈倾斜状。表
冠和计时按钮则安置在其顶部，乍看
好似一只计时秒表。除了设计理念的
创新，卡莱拉Carbon Calibre 1887
概念计时码表表壳、底盖及表框均是
用以各向同性矩阵排列的薄碳纤维制
成。这种只有0.007毫米厚的强化材
料，使轻捷的材质兼具超级坚硬的质
地。正是通过如此有前瞻性的一款腕
表，豪雅以自己独特的方式为纪念卡
莱拉50周年向设计先驱和技术先锋们
致敬。
如果你还依稀记得2012年BASELWORLD香奈儿推出的山茶花陀飞轮的
话，那么今年的宝格丽推出的首款复
杂功能女性腕表Il Giardino Tropicale
di Bulgari势必再次掀起女性腕表的复
杂功能之风。在中国市场以高级珠宝
尤其是彩宝深入人心的宝格丽，此次
在女性腕表复杂功能领域的开拓可谓
大胆。首先，宝格丽将自身最擅长的
从越做越专到越做越美
珠宝镶嵌与手工装饰工艺淋漓尽致地
融入最新的表款之中。当然，设计灵
感依然来自于宝格丽在珠宝设计领域
享有盛名的自然世界题材。这一次，
色彩艳丽的鹦鹉成为该表款灵动的主
角。40颗钻石的紧密镶嵌及鹦鹉图案
的微绘创作相互衬托、熠熠生辉。如
此臻美的设计与创作承载了腕表大师
的耐心与细腻——每一块精美的表盘
需要工匠们在确保万无一失的情况下
花费两周的时间才能完成。图案上每
个小孔都需要在三层颜料（花）到五
层（叶）或八层颜料（鹦鹉）在近一
周多达25次的烧制后，表盘才将华丽
现身。其次，Il Giardino Tropicale di
Bulgari呈现给世人的是宝格丽的另一
大惊喜：透过圆形开面，由蓝宝石夹
板支撑的自动上链陀飞轮机芯清晰可
见，一只活灵活现的精雕鹦鹉栖息于
开面之上。直径37毫米的18K玫瑰金的
背透表壳下，可观察到重2.42克的玫瑰
金摆陀，维持着自动上链机芯的稳定
运转。这款Il Giardino Tropicale di
Bulgari腕表限量50只，也唯有感悟生
命美好的优雅女士方能体会此枚腕表
的精致品味、非凡工艺以及稀有之美。
感悟机械时计之精准与工艺创作之
唯美，相信此次BASELWORLD之行，
一定会让很多媒体同行不虚此行。作
为中国北京发行量最大最具影响力的
报纸媒体，北京晚报《时尚消费》周
刊会将这里正在发生、呈现的美丽精
彩绽放在京城的五月。
香奈儿“Première”女表，精钢表壳
及表链，16 x 22 x 6.2 毫米，白色珍
珠母贝表盘，石英机芯。
介绍香奈儿和爱马仕手表新品
文：陈光大
无处不在的时尚正在为高级制表
业注入新的活力，尽管在瑞士，以机
芯性能为主导的价值体系仍旧根深蒂
固，但是设计出众的产品已经在逐步
接管市场。似乎与手表的功能、工艺
和（不断增长的）价格相比，优雅、
时尚的外观更能够为人们提供直接的
购买理由，尤其是对于女性顾客，这
一点在珠宝和服装行业早已得到了印
证。
香奈儿是这场手表时尚潮流的
引领者之一。 1 9 8 7 年，香奈儿推出
了第一款专为女性设计的手表，并
以“Première”命名。“Première”
在法语中是第一、最好的含义，在
高级定制服装领域特指首席女裁缝
师。“Première”系列的设计灵感来
自香奈儿女士曾经长期居住和生活的
巴黎芳登广场，它的表壳既非圆形，
也非酒桶形，而是不带任何弧度的长
八角形，并覆以棱线分明的蓝宝石表
镜，简约而时尚。
今年，香奈儿对“Première”系列
进行了重新演绎，推出了14款新作，
分为20 x 28毫米以及16 x 22毫米两种
尺寸，从不锈钢到白金镶钻款，占据
从低到高的多个价位区间。值得一提
的是，新款的“Première”手表采用
了金属链环做表带，这一常出现在坤
包上的设计元素比香奈儿以往使用的
珍珠和高科技陶瓷材质更贴近女性的
生活，适合在不同场合佩戴，也能够
满足与各类服装、首饰混搭的要求。
J12系列仍旧是香奈儿的核心，
今年主推的J12 CHROMATIC神秘飞
返表和J12 SUPERLEGGERA黑色哑
光计时表，都是在前作的基础上改
变了手表的材质和外观，将专业功
能越做越美，营造出不同的佩戴效
果。“MADEMOISELLE PRIVÉ”高级
珠宝表也有一款新作问世，黑色大明
火珐琅表盘辅以金雕工艺，宛如一扇
COROMANDEL（乌木）屏风，为我
们打开了通向香奈儿女士艺术世界的
大门。
爱马仕今年新品的设计也给人留
下了深刻的印象。尽管在人们的印
象中，爱马仕并不是一家传统的
制表企业，但却不乏长青的款
式，发明于1978年的Arceau
系列就是其中之一。今年恰逢
Arceau系列问世35周年，爱
马仕特别推出了带月相显示功
能的Arceau Petite Lune手表。
表壳直径38毫米，备有黑色和白色
珍珠母贝两个版本，月相显示位于表
盘的10点至11点位，这恰好是夜幕降
临、月上枝头的时间。该月相模块是
由Dubois Dépraz开发，自动上弦机
芯带指针式日历，配合Arceau系列特
有的斜体阿拉伯数字时标和马镫形表
耳，实用而又美观。
除了月相表之外，Arceau系列的
新款Pocket Volutes怀表是一款融合
了透明珐琅和镶金工艺的杰作，带给
人博物馆级的享受。另有配合季节性
色调专为女性打造的两款Arceau Lipstick手表，粉红色小牛皮表带，机械
款直径32毫米，石英款直径28毫米，
除了诱人的外表之外，它们的价格也
非常令人心动。
有业内人士指出，“Haute Horlogerie（高级钟表）”、“Haute
Joiallerie（高级珠宝）”和“Haute
Couture（高级时装）”三者之间的
界限正变得越来越模糊，因为美丽和
时尚本身没有界限。三者之间的交
融，拓宽了钟表行业的视野和产品种
类，也为制造商和顾客创造出新的价
值——今年的巴塞尔表展，请尽情享
受时尚带给钟表行业的改变。
香奈儿MADEMOISELLE PRIVÉ
手表，18K白金表壳以雪花式
镶嵌524颗钻石，直径37.5毫
米，黑色大明火珐琅表盘，辅
以金雕工艺，自动上弦机芯。
爱马仕Arceau Lipstick
女表，圆形精钢表壳，
直径28毫米，石英机
芯，配粉红色小牛皮
表带。
爱马仕Arceau_Petite_
Lune月相表，圆形精钢
表壳，直径38毫米，自动
上弦机芯，带指针日历和
月相显示，黑色珍珠母贝
表盘。
16 WATCHES
Breguet shows off the first
serially produced mechanical chronograph beating
at 10 Hz.
TIMELY TIMERS
CHRONOGRAPHS REMAIN POPULAR IN ALL PRICE CATEGORIES
AND LEVELS OF COMPLICATION
by Elizabeth Doerr
L
ast month, Louis Moinet
made
a
startling
announcement: an auction find proves that
Louis Moinet – and not
Nicolas Rieussec, as previously
thought – was the first watchmaker
to produce a working chronograph.
Today, chronographs remain
the most popular additional function to a mechanical wristwatch,
with a number of firms making
interesting examples. Girard-Perregaux notably introduces its very
first integrated column-wheel
chronograph here at BASELWORLD. Calibre GP03800 comprises 312 components and is the result
of five years of research. It includes
a central direct-drive second hand
and a jumping minute counter,
which makes it far easier to read off
than a conventional chronograph.
The calibre is ensconced in the
1966 line, characterized by sober,
elegant aesthetics. Housed in a 40
mm rose gold case, it will probably
become an instant classic. The aesthetic movement can be viewed
through the transparent case back.
Like Moinet’s first chronograph
– which can be seen here at BASELWORLD on display at the Louis
Moinet stand – Breguet boasts innovation in high frequency. The Type
XXII 3880 beats at 10 Hz (72,000
vph) and is the first serially produced mechanical chronograph to
do so. The line is added to at BASELWORLD 2013 with a model encased
in 18-karat rose gold, whose chronograph second hand completes one
rotation around the dial in 30 seconds, thus making its readout twice
as precise as a conventional model.
Devon Tread 2.
Girard-Perregaux Calibre GP03800.
Going along with its speedy theme,
it naturally also contains a flyback
function for immediate return to
zero and restarting of the timing. A
second time zone display increases
the functionality of this automatic
model, whose quickly beating heart
is crafted in high-tech silicon.
Abraham-Louis Perrelet was a
contemporary of Moinet and
Breguet back in the day, and the
modern brand has also continued to
incorporate his original innovation.
A watchmaker providing key
research needed to arrive at the
automatic movement (which culminated in John Harwood’s invention
presented in 1924), the modern
brand has made a name for itself
with the unique Turbine model,
based on the idea of an automatic
rotor visible from the dial. While
the Turbine’s front rotor no longer
adds to the automatic function, its
playful visual fascinates the eye. A
double rotor incorporated into Calibre P-361 is visible through the
transparent case back. The striking
“face” of the Turbine Chrono incorporates chronograph seconds within its 47 mm stainless steel case,
which is available in several ver-
sions combining DLC coating and
rose gold.
The Devon Tread 2, which premiered at BASELWORLD last year
and is now presented in its finalized
form, has the capacity to time
events. This doesn’t look like a “normal” chronograph, but then again
nothing about this line of watches is
“normal”. The chronograph function – actually literally a stopwatch
in this case – can be activated by
pushing the button on the left side
of the case. Though it has no belt
displaying the seconds, the Tread 2
keeps track of them internally. They
can be displayed by properly pushing the button. Holding the crown
down for five seconds activates the
stopwatch function and pushing it
again starts the timing function.
Here at BASELWORLD, Edox
introduces an automatic chronograph within its Grand Ocean
Extreme Sailing Series. Housed
within a 48 mm stainless steel case
coated with black PVD, its cool,
sporty look is enhanced by a black
natural rubber strap.
Chronographs have come a long
way since Louis Moinet’s time. He
would surely be proud.
JACOB & CO. RELEASES
PALATIAL WATCH
SEIKO HONOURS FOUNDER
WITH SPECIAL ASTRON
THE NEW COLLECTION FEATURES MASTERFULLY
DESIGNED TIMEPIECES
A GLOBAL WATCH, USEABLE ANYWHERE
M
eiko Watch Corp., one of the
world’s leading watchmakers,
celebrates its centennial with
a special limited edition version
(5,000) of its Astron GPS Solar,
named after the company’s founder.
The 47 mm Seiko Astron Kintaro
Hattori Special Limited Edition
light-powered watch adjusts automatically to any of the world’s 39
time zones. “The Astron GPS Solar
is truly a global watch, useable anywhere,” says Shuji Takahashi, Seiko
Senior Vice President. “If you can
see the sky, you can know the time.”
The timepiece is precise to one second every 100,000 years and has a
perpetual calendar to 2100. The
special edition’s case of high-intensity aluminum has a hard black
covering and ceramic bezel. The
by William George Shusters
by Roberta Naas
oving full speed ahead
with its creative watch
designs, Jacob & Co.
unveils the intriguing new Palatial
collection. The line is a cohesive
series of timepieces that includes a
complex Palatial jump hour, retrograde minute, tourbillon watch and
an hour/minute tourbillon watch,
as well as a series of big dates and
extra thin automatics.
Each Palatial complicated watch
is crafted in a 44 mm titanium case
with 18-karat 4N pink gold crown.
The dial is a superbly beautiful
transparent blue sapphire with rose
gold hands and applied numerals
and accents. The jump hour version, with one-minute flying tourbillon escapement at “6”, features a
retrograde minute hand in arc
shape between “12” and “3” and a
jump hour window at “10” for harmonious balance in design. This
watch houses the manually wound
mechanical MHC-manufactured
JCO0050 calibre with 251 parts.
Just 36 pieces of this watch will be
created.
The Palatial Tourbillon HM features the same stunning blue sapphire crystal, with a dial with traditional Roman numerals and hands
in rose gold. The tourbillon is
located at “6” for a classically elegant appeal. This watch houses the
manually wound Jacob & Co.
M HC -manufactured
calibre
JCO1351 with 194 components and
29 jewels. It offers hours, minutes
S
Jacob & Co.
Palatial
Tourbillon
HM.
and 100 hours of power reserve.
The movement is equipped with a
titanium balance with gold timing
screws, and all surfaces are finely
finished. Fitted with a blue alligator strap, the watch is water resistant to 30 metres. Just 36 pieces will
be made.
1.1, B31
crown is tipped with onyx, and the
crystal coated with Seiko’s antireflection finish. Engraved on back
is the original Seiko “S” logo and
the guiding motto of Kintaro Hattori, and Seiko, “One Step Ahead of
the Rest”.
1.1, D79+D83
Seiko Astron Kintaro Hattori.
The Bulova Accutron Calibrator:
Innovation never rests.
The world’s first Swiss Made automatic timepiece that
gives you the power to fine tune its accuracy. With the
simple use of a key inserted at the 9 o’clock position, our
proprietary External Fine Adjustment System (EFAS) lets
you control the accuracy of your mechanical watch without
the need for a technician. The result is 99.99% accuracy.
Hall 1.1 B83
Visit us in Hall 1.1 Stand D71
FERNANDO ALONSO COLLECTION
Twice World Drivers’ Champion
WATCHES 21
VERY CHIC
A TRIO OF NEW LADIES’
MODELS FROM GC ARE
CLASSIC YET SPORTY
by Carol Besler
T
he Gc Mini Chic is inspired
by the fashion trend of warm
natural tones. It is classic in
style, with a clean design, white
mother-of-pearl dial and feminine
28 mm size. Sporty details give it the
characteristic style and quality elements of the iconic Gc Diver Chic
series, including 100 metre water
resistance, round steel case
enhanced by a crenulated smoothtopped diver’s bezel with minute
markers, a T-bar strap attachment,
stylized indices and Roman numeral details. There are three versions
Adrian Bosshard,
Certina President.
Certina DS
Podium Lady
Chronograph.
“2013 WILL BE A MILESTONE”
CERTINA AIMS FOR ANOTHER RECORD YEAR
Interview by William George Shuster
A
Certina DS Eagle.
drian Bosshard, President of the Swiss sport
watch Certina, talks to
BWDN about its 125th
anniversary, new corporate identity, opportunities in
China and new DS watches.
BWDN: Mr. Bosshard, how was
business in 2012? What is your
goal for 2013?
Adrian Bosshard: 2012 was again a
record year for Certina, especially
in Europe and Russia. In our young
markets in Asia, we have very
promising development. As for
2013, this is our 125th anniversary
year, and we intend to make it a
strong milestone year.
How is the brand celebrating its
125th year?
We are launching some limited edition watches, one equipped with a
brand-new mechanical movement.
To mark the anniversary, we have
a new logo with
a strong element from our
history, and the
Certina brand has
a new dynamic colour.
Where are Certina’s
best opportunities in
2013?
Looking at the potential of Greater
China and the purchasing behaviour of the local customers, we definitely see a tremendous opportunity
for our brand to grow.
Mechanical products are very
appreciated in China. So, in 2013, we
are launching two new watch families, with a newly-developed
mechanical movement. We are convinced these are perfectly fitted to
the Chinese customer’s taste.
WATCH TO WATCH
Women’s watches are 35 percent
of Certina collections. What’s new
there?
The DS Podium Lady collection is a
sport-elegant product launched just
before Christmas 2012. Demand is
very strong, because it has a top premium look and the famous Certina
quality for a very fair price. Also, we
are launching at BASELWORLD
2013 a new ladies’ watch called the
DS Prime Chronograph collection.
What are some other important
Certina debuts at the show?
The DS Eagle is one of our highlights. Its outstanding design and
high level of technical production
make it a real icon and talking
piece. Its shape and level of detail
work are exceptional.
Another is the new Certina DS,
inspired by Certina watches of the
1960s. The curved dial with matching hand in the high-end case is a
perfect link between traditional
elements and current trends. It is
being launched with the new
Powermatic80 automatic movement, with 80 hours power reserve.
What’s new in 2013 for Certina in
sports?
Certina is focusing a big part of its
worldwide communication activities on its new partnership as official timekeeper for motorsport’s
FIA World Rally Championship and
of course as partner of motor racing’s Sauber F1 Team, recently
renewed for the nine year.
We are also again very active with
our brand ambassador Ole Einar
Bjørndalen, the most successful biathlete in history.
1.0, A25
SPORTY ALLROUNDER
Roamer
Ceraline Saphira
Movement
quartz
Functions
hour, minute, second, date
Case material
ceramic/stainless steel
Case dimensions
30 or 40 mm
Special features
notably thin and scratch-resistant case,
ceramic bracelet for high wearing comfort
Place to watch: 1.2, C01
SECTOR NO LIMITS INTRODUCES NEW MODEL
IN THE DIVE MASTER LINE
by Sabine Zwettler
T
his sport brand, which
belongs to the Morellato
Group, presents a multifunctional divers’ and outdoor
men’s watch: the Mtv Touch and
Scroll from the Dive Master line.
Watertight to ten atmospheres, the
new wristwatch is equipped with a
digital compass, a depth alarm
and a decompression alarm, various memory functions, a worldtime display with 32 time zones
and a chronograph. All
of these functions are
conveniently operable
via the crystal, which
doubles as a touchscreen. The Mtv Touch
and Scroll takes the plunge
in a generously proportioned
48-mm diameter stainless
steel case bearing a rotatable
bezel and affixed to a rubber
wristband.
1.2, D49
Gc Camouflage.
of the watch, the highlight of which
is the model with a warm rose gold
(PVD) case with white ceramic bezel, in combination with a corresponding white croco-embossed
leather bracelet. It is also available
in a style with a stainless steel case
and rose gold (PVD) hands. It is
water resistant to 100 metres.
A statement of urban nomad chic
is the new Gc Camouflage. It has a
grand entrance in a striking gun
metal PVD case with a clip crown
protector. As the model’s name suggests, the timepiece shows off in classic camo hues of green and sandy
beige. There is a ladies’ and men’s
version. The Gc Homme (44 mm) is
water resistant to 30 atmospheres,
the Gc Femme (37,5 mm) dives down
to 10 metres.
1.2, B41
Sector No
Limits Mtv
Touch and
Scroll.
22 WATCHES
NEWS
“A YEAR OF
OPPORTUNITIES”
RJ-ROMAIN JEROME EXPECTS DOUBLE-DIGIT GROWTH
M
anuel Emch, RJRomain Jerome’s
CEO, tells BWDN
about its unique
limited
edition
watches, including the new Octopus
and two notable collaborations.
SWAROVSKI – The new Octea
Abyssal is pressure-resistant to 20
bar, i.e. watertight to 200 metres. Its
stainless steel and aluminium case
also looks great on dry land thanks to
its elegant styling and a ceramic
bezel. The white dial has a reduced
beauty and is also legible in the dark.
The brand’s swan logo on the back
reveals the provenance of this new
automatic wristwatch.
1.1, C21
BWDN: Mr. Emch, how was 2012?
What do you expect in 2013?
Manuel Emch: We sold more than
3,000 watches and accessories,
launched several exciting novelties, and expanded geographically.
In 2013, we expect to have doubledigit growth, enhance our presence
in key markets, and further develop new ones. We believe 2013 is
full of opportunities for RJ.
Tell us about Octopus, RJ-Romain
Jerome’s first diver’s watch.
As a high-end sports and lifestyle
watch brand, it was logical to add a
diver’s watch. A unique characteristic of Octopus is its two crowns, one
at 9 o’clock to set the time and the
other at 3 o’clock to activate the
elapsed time controller. It also has
an exclusive internal unidirectional
rotating sapphire bezel system.
Details echo the number 8, the
animal’s number of legs. Each model is limited to 888 pieces. There are
eight octagon screws on the 45 mm
case and back, which has a handengraved octopus. The two screwlocked crowns have eight rivets and
are water resistant to 888 feet.
Where are RJ’s best opportunities
in 2013?
In mature markets, such as Europe,
and emerging markets seeking
something different
and unique. Our
customers are collectors looking for
very limited editions
or customised models, or people passionately interested
in one of our brand
‘legends.’ They are
young, independent,
and have an iconoclastic personality. They want luxury watches that are innovative,
daring, and fit their lifestyle.
What else is new?
2013’s highlights are in a more classical and affordable range. We also
have an extraordinary timepiece
created in collaboration with two watchmaking
legends,
Eric Giroud and
Jean-Marc Wiederrecht. We started the
project two years
ago to show RJ can
do “serious” watchmaking,
while
remaining creative,
provocative
and
accessible. This new approach for
the brand is innovative, contemporary, and offbeat watchmaking.
“Our customers
are collectors
looking for very
limited editions
or customised
models.”
Manuel Emch, CEO of
RJ-Romain Jerome.
In 2012, you collaborated on a
watch with Swiss artist John M.
Armleder. Are you working with
other artists in 2013?
I long wished to combine my passions for contemporary art and
watchmaking in a unique work of
art in a limited-edition watch. It
was also important to me to work
with a Swiss artist. My admiration
for John M. Armleder’s work made
my choice easy! There will probably be other collaborations. We’re
talking with some very interesting
artists.
What does BASELWORLD 2013
mean for RJ-Romain Jerome?
It’s one of the year’s most important
events, providing almost 50 percent
of our annual turnover. This year, we
have a much bigger stand, with two
floors and a great location. It’s a substantial investment. We worked with
the best Swiss architects, and are
very proud of it.
1.1, A55
TUNE UP YOUR BIKE
STAR QUALITIES
FESTINA LAUNCHES NEW SPECIES
IN THE CHRONO BIKE COLLECTION
RADO EXPANDS AN ICONIC LINE
T
our new chronographs join
the Rado D-Star. Made from
black or platinum-coloured
and very highly resistant high-tech
ceramic, each has the characteristic
look of this line, which is famed for
its oval cases. The case is watertight to ten atmospheres
and
encloses a new
chronograph
m ove m e n t :
ETA’s calibre
105.H31
amasses a
by Sabine Zwettler
by Sabine Zwettler
TECHNOMARINE – The Steel Evolution Carbon chronograph is the
latest result of the brand’s continuing
effort to play with materials and
interpret them in a new way. The
incorporation of carbon fiber’s masculine and sophisticated aesthetic
into some of TechnoMarine’s signature components, such as the brand’s
typical silicone strap, moves the Steel
Evolution line forward in an exciting
new direction. Carbon fiber has technical credentials, such as light weight,
that underscore the practical side of
the brand, whilst connoting modern
– a term that is also reflective of the
TechnoMarine’s identity. (sz) 1.1, A91
raditionally at home in the
world of competitive bicycling, in 2013 Festina again
launches a series of distinctively
sporty chronographs in the Chrono
Bike Collection. Technically motivated elements in the style of professional bikes inspired the specially
designed bezels, eye-catching indexes and subdials of these chronographs. Made from 316L stainless
steel, the robust 44.5-mm-diameter
case encloses a quartz movement, is
watertight to ten atmospheres and
has a mineral crystal with three layers of antireflective coating. Alongside the colourful dials, other eyecatchers in this 16-part collection are
stainless steel bracelets or optional
wristbands that match the dials’ colours and are made from a combination of stainless steel, polyurethane
and silicon.
1.2, D31
F
Chrono Bike Collection.
Rado D-Star Automatic Chronograph.
60-hour power reserve and tallies
elapsed minutes and seconds. The
movement is decorated in fine Swiss
tradition and is equipped with a
black oscillating weight. With a case
measuring 48.6 by 45.4 mm,
the D-Star Automatic
Chronograph is
an impressive
presence on
the wrist.
1.0, D25
Cristiano Ronaldo
SF 24
Split Flap Display
45mm 18K Rose Gold Automatic Movement
B A S E LW O R L D
H A L L 1 . 1 S TA N D B 3 1
New York +1.212.888.2330
Geneva +41.22.310.6962
jacobandco.com
26 WATCHES
NEWS
HEAVENLY
ENJOYMENT
THE INDICATION OF THE MOON’S PHASE IS A MOST
CHARMING COMPLICATION
by Sabine Zwettler
T
NOMOS – Grau means “grey” in German, but the Orion 38 grau is anything
but mousy. Perfectly embodying classical elegance, it encases Nomos’ handwound manufacture calibre Alpha. The
hue is new and the size is too: familiar
Orion models are 35 mm in diameter,
but this handsome newcomer is 38
mm wide. According to Nomos, the
larger size makes this model look more
masculine, more modern, slimmer and
more decisive. (iwi)
1.1, E79
he moon is both the
Earth’s only natural satellite and its nearest
neighbour in space.
Probably no other heavenly body is a more rewarding
object of observation for astronomers and stargazers because many
of its surface details are plainly visible even with the unaided eye.
Though it generates no light of its
own, the moon shines by reflecting
the sun’s illumination. Depending
on its position with respect to the
Earth and the sun, the moon
presents a different aspect each day.
The monthly spectacle ranges from
the opulent roundness of the full
moon to the graceful crescent visible near the horizon a few days
before or after new moon. The
celestial cycle begins again after
each of the moon’s phases has
appeared in the course of the moon
cycle of about twentynine and a half
days.
It’s not surprising to find that the
complication of the moon’s phases
has a long tradition in clock- and
watchmaking. Already in medieval
metropolises, gorgeous monumental
clocks showed the moon’s continual
changes. The first wall clocks that
depicted the moon’s phases were
built in the early 16th century. With
the introduction of the pocket watch,
the moon-phase display was miniaturised and ensconced in a portable
case. This complication was further
miniaturised in the 1920s so the fascinating spectacle could be integrated into the dials of wristwatches,
where becoming progressively more
fashionable in that era.
The heyday of quartz watches in
the 1970s upstaged mechanical
watches and also led to the near
disappearance of this astronomical
complication. Not until the 1980s,
when the so-called “Quartz Crisis”
gradually waned and the mechanical watch began its unparalleled
Glashütte
Original
Senator
Panorama
Date Moon
Phase.
renaissance, did Switzerland’s
Blancpain manufacture give the
ancient astronomical complication
a new and glorious staging in calibre 6395. Equipped with a full calendar showing the day of the week,
the month and the date, this watch
was the first to lovingly portray the
full moon as a smiling face. An
immidiate success, many other
manufacturers followed suit and
added watches with moon-phase
displays into their assortments.
A BEVY OF NEW RELEASES
Frédérique Constant’s Runabout
Moonphase Limited Edition Riva
Historical Society lets Luna show
her phases against a background of
stars inside a sickle-shaped window at the “6”. This self-winding
wristwatch is produced in a limited
edition of 1,888 timepieces, each
with a 43 mm case that is watertight to ten atmospheres and crafted from either stainless steel or
stainless steel and rose gold. Each
silver-coloured dial is adorned
with guilloche; a hand indicates
the date.
The cyclical phenomenon of the
lunar phases likewise enlivens the
“6” on the dial of Maurice Lacroix’s
new Les Classiques Chronographe
Phases de Lune Ladies. As its name
suggests, this chronograph (which
also shows the date) is designed to
appeal to aficionadas of fine watches. The 38 mm steel case comes
with either an anthracite-coloured
or black mother-of-pearl dial. This
quartz watch is also available with a
diamond-studded bezel.
The new interpretation of
Glashütte Original’s Senator Panorama Date Moon Phase has an elaborately crafted moon phase display
that draws its viewers under its
spell. A little moon made of polished silver cycles through its phases above a deep blue background.
This self-winding wristwatch is animated by manufacture calibre 10004 with fine Glashütte specialities
such as a swan’s neck fine adjustment mechanism.
BOLD AND STYLISH
INVICTA’S NEW WATCHES DEMONSTRATE A STRONG BRAND IDENTITY
T
he Invicta watch brand, part
of the fast-growing Invicta
Watch Group, is known for
bold, stylish timepieces. Three new
good examples are on display now
at BASELWORLD 2013.
First, the Invicta Russian Diver
Retrograde is the newest addition to
the brand’s Russian Diver Collection, named after a 1959 watch
commissioned by the Russian Naval
Fleet. The 52 mm watch runs on a
top-quality Swiss quartz movement,
with date and day display, a retrograde function, and a 10-hour
chronograph. Its dial features luminous hands and indexes.
The solid stainless steel watch
with black ion plating is water
resistant to 100 metres, and rides a
resilient polyurethane strap with
stainless steel inserts and buckle.
The Invicta Russian Diver Collection, which features large watches
with striking designs, also includes
models for women.
The second debut at BASELWORLD is the ruggedly stylish 52
mm Invicta Subaqua Chronograph
featuring an eye-catching skeleton
textured dial and 18K rose gold
plated bezel, subdials and crown.
The stainless steel watch has a unidirectional bezel, exhibition case-
The Invicta stand in Hall 1.
The Invicta
Subaqua
Noma V.
Invicta Subaqua
Chronograph.
back, integrated shock resistance
and is water resistant to 500 metres.
Its other features include luminous
hands and indexes, and a stainless
steel bracelet with a diver buckle
and safety clasp.
The timepiece is part of Invicta’s
Subaqua Collection of watches,
which are produced with surgicalgrade stainless steel, Swiss quartz
movements and ionic plating in a
variety of colour options.
Also on view, and part of the
Subaqua collection, is the awardwinning, 50 mm Invicta Subaqua
Noma V. Four years in the making,
the limited edition (500) timepiece
has a number of notable features. In
addition to its fold-down screw-in
crown, its watch pushers use a patented system, which elevates the
screw-down pusher, while the locking system stays in place, providing
20 times more water resistance,
says a company spokesman.
The timepiece runs on an ETA
automatic movement. Its dial itself
comprises of eight different components, and a new set of hands with
the Invicta design. The watch case
has 36 micro-engineered components, carefully assembled over 100
man-hours, and its re-designed bezel has five integrated “stations”,
allowing the wearer to firmly grasp
and turn the unidirectional bezel.
The re-engineered bracelet has
individual frame protectors which
fit on top, and in between, the base
bracelet.
The Invicta Subaqua Noma V,
water resistant to 500 metres, was
recently awarded the prestigious
international Red Dot Award in
Product Design, winning against
4,662 products, 1,800 manufacturers, designers, and architects from
54 countries.
1.2, E53
WATCHES 29
“AUDACIOUS,
INNOVATIVE AND
IRREVERENT”
Gabriele Ghielmini,
CEO of Tendence.
TENDENCE STAYS TRUE TO ITS ROOTS AND EXPANDS ITS
RANGE OF PRODUCTS
by Sabine Zwettler
T
endence, a young watch
brand based in Lugano,
Switzerland, offers contemporary style and
distinct appeal in its
notably large collection, which features many oversized watches.
Although these watches have only
been available for six years, they are
already distributed across the globe.
Tendence’s CEO Gabriele Ghielmini
shares news about the company
and its products.
BWDN: How was the
past year for Tendence and what do
you expect for 2013?
Gabriele Ghielmini:
2 0 12
was
undoubtedly a
challenging
year for many
others,
but
we’re fortunate that it
was a very
good year for
Te n d e n c e .
Demand for Tendence is extraordinarily lively in Asia
overall and China also remains
strong. Along with global expansion
in the watch industry through carefully selected multi-brand stores, we
also opened a series of mono-brand
boutiques in China’s largest cities
and most prestigious locations and in
other countries in Asia. This enabled
us to build a strong network of Tendence boutiques across Asia. 2013 will
bring a large number of new Tendence mono-brand boutiques, as well
as further monobrand developments including kiosks,
counters and shop-inshops, in developed
and emerging markets. We’re looking
forward to excellent
results in the coming months.
What are your major debuts at
BASELWORLD 2013?
I’m particularly proud of our new
Lifestyle Collection, which consists
of stylish jewellery and statement
accessories. There are also seven
new watch collections, each with its
distinctive appeal. These include the
brand-new
Slim
Sport Swiss Made
Collection, inspired
by the fast-paced
world of motorsports and our Iconic and Animal Collections. We’ll also
present expansions
to some of our existing lines.
“This BASELWORLD marks a
new era and further progress, both
for the industry
as a whole and
notably also for
Tendence.”
Slim Sport Swiss Made.
If you were to
describe Tendence
in three keywords, what would
they be?
Our slogan is “Larger than Life”
and it perfectly summarises Tendence. If I were to break that down
into three keywords to describe
Tendence, they would be: audacious, innovative and irreverent.
One of your introductions last
year was the Swiss Made Collection with an almost architectural
dial. How important are the words
“Swiss Made” nowadays?
We’ve expanded our Swiss Made
Collections this year. The Swiss
Made label is globally trusted as a
mark of quality because, above all
else, it guarantees high quality, knowhow and traditional manufacturing techniques. The “Swiss Made”
label will always convey special
A PLAYFUL PIECE OF ART
ALL YEAR LONG
MIKI ELETA DISPLAYS A NEW KINETIC OBJECT
MATTHIAS NAESCHKE SHOWS NEW LONG-RUNNING CLOCK
by Sabine Zwettler
Z
urich-based artist Miki Eleta
expresses his unusual view
of time through kinetic
objects that he personally constructs from start to finish. A member of the AHCI, Eleta presents his
latest opus at BASELWORLD: Hippocampus. The name alludes to the
shape of the filigreed anchor, which
recalls a seahorse. This clock has
retrograde displays for hours and
minutes. Luna’s current phase is
very precisely indicated by two
moons made of transparent sandblasted glass positioned above a
blue glass disc. The musical movement is another special feature: its
own weight powers both the musical mechanism and the clockwork.
The gear ratio is made so that different series of tones are heard every
6.6 days. Centuries pass before the
same sequence is repeated. The
clock relies on an Eleta detente
escapement and amasses a twomonth power reserve.
2.0, C15
prestige and set a standard for others.
How do you like BASELWORLD’s
new layout? What can visitors
expect to see at your stand?
I’m passionate about architecture and
I like the new layout very much. I
appreciate it both from a design perspective and because I believe it clearly reflects the increasing overlap
between watches and jewellery,
which is perfectly conveyed by this
year’s motto “Brilliance Meets”. This
marks a new era and further progress,
both for Tendence and the industry as
a whole. We welcome the added value
that results from the new structure,
and we were delighted to seize the
opportunity to create a new stand that
provides a perfect showcase for visitors to enjoy our products. 1.2, A31
NEWS
by Sabine Zwettler
T
Miki Eleta presenting his Hippocampus
here at BASELWORLD.
he NL126 long-case clock
escape-wheel is elegant, as are the
skilfully blends the majestic
shape and form of the gilded plates.
swing of an unusually
Loss of energy due to friction is
lengthy 1.75 metre (1.25 seconds)
reduced by the use of very precise
pendulum with the long running
gearing, 12 modern stainless steel
(one year) of the clockwork. The
precision ball bearings, four ruby
German clockmakers who have
bearings and ruby pallets on the
decades of experience in the craftanchor. A hand-engraved sterling
ing of long-duration clocks created
silver chapter ring completes this
this unusual one by combining that
remarkable work. Conservative
experience
with
styling distinguishfundamental horoes the cabinet of
logical knowledge
the NL126: the full
of physical feasibilheight of the front
ity. The energy to
door is spanned by
power the pendua pane of bevelled
lum is generated by
glass, offering an
a force of only five
unobstructed view
kilograms, distribof the mechanisms.
uted on two sepaMother-of-pearl
rate weight lines.
and ebony inlays in
The clockwork is
the cabinet’s rear
skeletonised in Matwall further accenthias
Naeschke’s
tuate this clock’s
typical manner. The
fine appearance.
Matthias Naeschke
large
central
2.0, C15
long-case clock NL126.
AIRFIELD – Motivated by the
world of sports and traditionally affiliated with aviation, Airfield’s selection includes many mechanical complications that appeal to aficionados
in the entry-level segment. The collection’s technical flagship is the
Keeper, an elegant column-wheel
chronograph powered by a modified
calibre based on an old Venus 175.
Augmented with a self-winding
mechanism, it ticks in splendid concealment behind an opaque back
affixed by six screws. (sz)
2.0, F71
30 WATCHES
Watch lovers can
savour Italy’s finest
at Aigner’s stand
in Hall 1.2.
Capri.
AIGNER INVITES US
ON A TRIP TO ITALY
Bedat & Co. 327.
Eternally Roma.
NEW DESIGNS CAPTURE THE MEDITERRANEAN LIFESTYLE
by Sabine Zwettler
F
or nearly 80 years, since
its inception in the 1930’s,
Aigner has provided discerning clientele around
the world with sophisticated and invariably timely accessories and watches that never go
out of style.
Aigner’s savvy fashion concept
has always been effortless yet cutting-edge, and these traits continue
in the brand’s timepieces today.
The characteristic Aigner horseshoe, renowned as the brand’s
hallmark, remains a central element and is especially fresh in the
new Eternally Roma collection.
This masculine series has a bold
look that features a horseshoeshaped black ceramic case and a
black ceramic bezel etched with
Roman numerals and the brand’s
horseshoe logo. Each of the two
chronograph counters on its grey
dial is shaped like a stylized “A”.
The date is subtly positioned at the
“4”. A black ceramic bracelet with a
well-orchestrated composition of
polished and brushed finishes consummates this timepiece.
The Verono Dia, a classical twohanded watch, captures the beauty
of Lake Como. A glimmering stainless steel horseshoe-shaped case is
paired with an elegantly well-balanced dial that glimmers mysterically in the background. A flawless
bezel draped in a romantic spell of
50 diamonds thrones with glittering
grace atop this timepiece. The
bracelet’s curves are highlighted by
38 diamonds.
WATCH TO WATCH
Aigner takes
us even further
south this year with
the Capri. The lovely
horseshoe-shaped
bezel
lends a tidily alluring appeal to the
several models in the line. With
shimmery gold plating or in stainless steel, the case seductively surrounds a mother-of-pearl dial,
where the hours and minutes are
shown. The colour options for the
leather straps range from deep purple and red to classic black.
Understated sensibility makes
the Venezia a stunning classic for
ladies. This model debuts with a
smaller case this year. The minimalistic mother-of-pearl dial is styl-
EXTRAVAGANT
WATCHMAKING
BEDAT & CO. SHOWCASES
JEWELLERY EXPERTISE
by Carol Besler
ishly positioned under an
oversized
A-shaped
logo, thus attracting attention to
the indexes and the two hands,
which are animated by a Swiss
movement and polished to match
each other in hues of either rose
gold, yellow gold or glistening silver. All of these timepieces, along
with Aigner’s newest jewellery and
writing instruments, can be seen at
Aigner’s stand in Hall 1.2. Each
watch is crafted in accord with
Aigner’s sense of style and sophistication. All timepieces encase highquality Swiss Ronda quartz movements.
1.2, C02
T
he case of the Art-Decoinspired Bedat & Co. 327
from the Extravaganza collection, is set with tapered baguette
diamonds plus another two solitaire
diamonds at the connection of the
gold tennis band, which is set with
large, brilliant cut diamonds. Functions include hours and minutes.
The refined dial features Roman
numerals. The case is made of a
white gold palladium alloy and the
movement is a vintage movement
that has been tuned in-house and
exclusively for the Extravaganza
collection.
1.1, A87
A HEAVENLY CELEBRATION
ck Calvin Klein
ck classic
Movement
ETA 901.005, quartz
Functions
hour, minute
Case material
stainless steel
Case dimensions
38 mm
Special features
two-part-case, silver-coloured dial
with ck logo
Place to watch: 1.0, D25
AUGUSTE REYMOND LAUNCHES MOONPHASE WATCH
by Carol Besler
T
he Jazz Age moonphase
from August Reymond is an
homage to the 1930s, and
incorporates a complication that
the Swiss brand had already mastered during that era. It was also
the golden age of jazz, and the
watch is thus a tribute on two
counts, to the exciting jazz years
and to the brand’s own golden era.
The full calendar and chronograph
indications are driven by the
Auguste Reymond
Jazz Age moonphase.
famous Valjoux calibre 7751.
The sophisticated silvertoned guilloché dial features a small seconds display, a 24-hour display, a
30-minute counter, day
and month indicators, a
12-hour counter and
– as its name
implies – a moonphase indicator.
2.0, C61
FENDI SELLERIA COLLECTION SERIES 8100 INTERCHANGEABLE STRAP SYSTEM IS A REGISTERED MODEL
FENDI.COM
34 WATCHES
NEWS
POLICE – Edgy design details take
centre stage this season in the Police
watch collection, as demonstrated
by the new Elevation. This rectangular timepiece sits on a pure white
strap with gold plated rivets. Signature wings, the Police ‘P’ logo, stylised roses and skulls are in the limelight of the silver dial with sunray
decor. (sz)
1.2, C01
A SHINING
STAR
MÜHLE GLASHÜTTE
PRESENTS NEW
CHRONOGRAPHS
by Sabine Zwettler
Mühle Glashütte Antaria Chronograph.
T
he Antaria Chronograph is
the new star that shines on
this traditional family company in Glashütte. Named after the
brightest star in the constellation of
Scorpio, this model has a bicolour
case with a special radiance. This is
matched by classical hands and
numerals on a tastefully designed,
anthracite-coloured dial. The wellbalanced overall appearance of this
42-mm-diameter chronograph is
complemented by its date display
and by Mühle’s logo at 3 o’clock.
Chronograph calibre MU 9408
ensures that time continues to run in
a precisely regular orbit. Features
characteristically associated with
Mühle Glashütte distinguish the
movement: a Mühle rotor, a patented fine adjustment mechanism, and
a Glashütte three-quarters plate.
These technical details aren’t only
functional: they’re also an aesthetic
highlight that can be admired by
gazing through the pane of sapphire
crystal in the case’s back. 2.0, A39
and the use of ball or jewel bearings
for all turning parts are characteristic for Sattler. The slight changes in
the length of the Super Invar pendulum rod, which are caused by temperature, are counterbalanced by a
precisely calculated, freely swinging compensation pipe.
Another important name in the
world of clocks is Kieninger Uhren
from Aldingen in southern Germany. Founded in the traditional clockmaking region of the Black Forest in
1912, this firm is known throughout
the world for its high-quality freestanding, wall-mounted and tabletop clocks. “Our clocks are functional decorative objects that combine classical clockmaking with
modern design,” explains CEO
Michael F. Schütz. The limited-edition table clock no. 1266-95-04
enlarges a complication that’s particularly popular in wristwatches:
the tourbillon. This white pianofinished clock debuts as a chrome
and wood construction with an
open architecture that offers an
unobstructed view of calibre J0256,
which plays three melodies on eight
baton-shaped gongs during the daytime hours and then automatically
switches into mute mode for the
night. The tourbillon with screw
balance indicates the passing seconds on the dial, which is crafted
from silver-plated brass.
The German company Erwin Sattler’s
stand in Hall 2 is frequented by lovers
of fine clocks.
A CLASS
OF ITS OWN
CLOCKS EMBODY HANDICRAFT AND
CUTTING-EDGE TECHNOLOGY
by Sabine Zwettler
BRITISH ELEGANCE
A
wall clock used to grace
Richard Müller, a clockmaker and
the wall of every paran expert in this field. The firm’s
lour, inviting its owner
portfolio includes both classically
to wind it once a day.
styled and modern-looking clocks
After the steeple clock,
of every variety. Ship’s clocks, navithe wall clock became the universal
gational instruments and top-qualitimekeeper, a daily domestic
ty watch movers were added to
reminder of transiErwin
Sattler’s
ence and the inexoassortment several
rable passage of
years ago. But the
precious
time.
company’s explicitNowadays
time
ly declared specialflashes in our faces
ty is high-end prefrom the digital discise
pendulum
plays of every conclocks that keep
ceivable appliance.
time
with
the
Amidst this deluge
utmost precision,
of indicators, a
deviating from perlarge-format time- Michael F. Schütz, Kieninger (2.0, J30) fect timekeeping by
piece seems to be
a mere one or two
superfluous
and
seconds per month.
nothing more than a nostalgically
This also applies to the Classica
loveable but anachronistic relic
Secunda 1985. A weight running
from grandfather’s era. But precisedown the side allows a power
ly now, in the hectic rhythm of conreserve of 30 days. The precisely
temporary life, large-format clocks
calculated, fine gear wheel teeth
can embody a philosophical counterpoint that reminds us to savour
the preciousness of each passing
moment.
“Our clocks are
functional decorative objects that
combine classical
clockmaking with
modern design.”
NOBLE CRAFTSMANSHIP
This motto is especially valid for the
clocks manufactured by the Erwin
Sattler firm in Gräfelfing (near
Munich, Germany). Connoisseurs
and collectors agree that these precise clocks number among the finest that the market has to offer. Aficionados appreciate the technically
complex and exquisitely handcrafted clocks made by this family business, which has been in existence
for over 50 years and is currently
co-directed by its founder’s daughter Stephanie Sattler-Rick and by
Kieninger Table Clock.
Buben & Zörweg Object
of Time One-77.
The Austrian firm of Buben & Zörweg offers an impressive and stylish
large-format timepiece. The new
Object of Time One-77 results from
cooperation between Buben & Zörweg and Aston Martin. It reflects the
legendary luxury car’s image of
British elegance with a beautifully
varnished, highly polished, freeform chassis and luxurious leather
interior. This yields a hand-crafted
lifestyle object combining a highend watch mover and a superlative
timepiece. The elegant housing
(1,820 by 845 by 470 mm) can keep
32 self-winding watches in rotation
and also includes two storage drawers for watches and jewellery, a safe
and an optional humidor. From the
horological perspective, it features a
cantilevered one-minute tourbillon
with a 15-day precision movement
with constant force and maintaining power. The date and the remaining power reserve are displayed on
the ruthenium-coated dial.
REFINED &
ELEGANT
PIERRE LANNIER
DEMONSTRATES FRENCH
SENSE OF TASTE
by Kyra Brenzinger
Pierre Lannier chronograph.
F
ounded in 1977, Pierre Lannier is one of the few remaining
French watchmakers. Based
in Ernolsheim-lès-Saverne in
Alsace, the company has decided to
follow current trends by creating a
brand of watches that focuses on
fashion.
Easy to wear and accessible, the
Pierre Lannier collections play on
colour this summer. The Flower
range is available in several versions, notably in a pretty purplishred that is enhanced by a floral
motif on the dial. The model worked
in white on rose gold-coloured metal is particularly elegant, a veritable
piece of jewellery. As women’s
watches are evolving towards greater technicality, so Pierre Lannier
reveals, on another model, the
mechanism, thus allowing us better
to appreciate the French watchmaker’s craft.
For BASELWORLD, the watchmaker has also capitalised on men’s
watches with two particularly elegant models. A new range of
chronographs has been developed
for dynamic men who care about
their style. The rectangular steel
dial has been decorated, with the
greatest attention to detail, with IP
rose gold-coloured rivets, giving it a
chic dandy touch. A wide leather
wristband gives this model real
presence. Another model in steel is
an automatic timepiece and plays
on the alternately matte and shiny
effect of the metal. The dial is
worked in relief with a few touches
of navy blue on the indexes and
hands.
1.2, A27
Multi-Functional Like You !
Visit us at:
Hall 1.2/E09
Celebrate a Milestone in our History.
On Your Wrist.
Please visit us at
Hall 1.1 · Stand D87
www.tutima.com
TUTIMA UHRENFABRIK GMBH NDL. GLASHÜTTE
Altenberger Straße 6 · 01768 Glashütte/Sa. · Germany
Tel. +49 35053 320 20 · [email protected]
WATCHES 37
NEWS
MICHEL HERBELIN – The Newport Yacht Club numbers among the
most successful lines of watches from this French brand.
Michel Herbelin’s new
models for 2013 include
the Classic Chronograph with a Swiss
quartz movement.
Along with elapsedtime counters, the
readily legible dial
also offers a big date
display. An insulated
crown and a screwed
back help to make the
42 mm stainless steel
case watertight to ten
bar. (sz)
1.1, A59
Many fashion brands show off their watch expertise in pieces that run the gamut from urban chic to sporty chic.
IT’S ALL IN THE NAME
FASHION BRANDS UNVEIL A HOST OF NEW TIMEPIECES GEARED TO MEN AND WOMEN
by Roberta Naas
O
n the fashion side of
the watch business, a
host of great names are
joining the already
established brands and
making an impact on the world of
urban chic for men. Brands such as
Burberry, Brooks Brothers, Davidoff
and Kenneth Cole are bringing a
new take on time. Other brands,
such as Versus by Versace and Izod,
are focusing on bold colours – sometimes with neon overtones.
Burberry is a top-of-the-line
brand that is blending classic tradition and modern attitude in timepieces for men that reflect its British
heritage. The design of the watches
is all about detail – with iconic influences from the trench coat making
their way into the watch via D-rings
and dial colours to strong bolts that
hold the case much like the hardware that closes the coats. The case
shape is a rounded octagonal that is
comprised of more than 30 parts,
and is finished with transparent sapphire casebacks on the automatics
and with SuperLuminova hands.
Kenneth Cole, through its Geneva Watch Group, unveils its Powered
by You watch that benefits amfAR, a
Foundation for AIDS Research. The
men’s skeleton automatic watch is
designed to inspire people to generate change in the global community
– and represents both companies’
commitments to giving back. The
watch features a vibrant red hand on
the sub-second dial, red minute
track accents and an enamel red ribbon on the case back, symbolizing
efforts to find a cure. Brands such as
Hugo Boss, Tommy Hilfiger, Davidoff and Izod are releasing great new
chronograph watches for a sporty
appeal. Davidoff offers bold auto
inspired colours, while the other
designers emerge with sailing
accents or clothing inspirations,
such as stripes and fabric straps.
BLUE RULES
In terms of colour, blue is emerging
strong as the leader for men, while
women’s watches are donning bold
hues of lime green, hot pink and
coral. In fact, Versus by Versace is
releasing the Ibiza line of colourful,
expressive watches that are inspired
by island fun. The new collection
features an aluminum rectangular
case with arched lugs and a double
Hugo Boss
chronograph.
wrap patent-leather strap. Available
in six bold colours ranging from
orange to bronze, purple and acid
yellow, each watch features a fluorescent coloured case with matching dial and strap (the inside of the
strap is lined in purple).
The Ritmo Time Group also
offers women colorful choices in the
new Izod line up. The spring collection has bright styles that range from
hot pink to grass green, with some
great striped models, as well styles
that emulate the fashions of the
brand. The striped watches feature
fabric strap for an even stronger correlation to the clothing.
STATE OF THE ART
WATCH TO WATCH
Tommy Hilfiger
Men Watch
Movement
ISA 9238/1970, quartz
Functions
hour, minute, second, date,
month, week day
Case material
stainless steel
Case dimensions
44 mm
Special features
tachymetre scale, octagonal bezel
fixed with screws
Place to watch: 1.2, B49
RODANIA ADDS LIMITED EDITION TO XSEBA COLLECTION
by Sabine Zwettler
Rodania Xseba Black Edition.
R
odania introduces
three limited editions of its Xseba
line. The chronograph
features a tachymeter
scale for measuring
distances on its bezel
and has a day/date
indication at 3’ o’clock
on its black dial with
refined guilloche pattern.
The 42 mm IP stainless
steel case, water resistant
to 10 atmospheres, features
LOUIS ERARD – The Excellence
Régulateur Réserve de Marche is a
regulator-style timepiece with an
offset hour counter at 12 o’clock, a
central minute hand and small seconds at 6 o’clock, as well as a power
reserve indicator at 10 o’clock. It
stands as a tribute to the early instruments of precision timekeeping. It
contains a hand-wound mechanical
ETA 7001 calibre, with an in-house
regulator/power reserve complication. The 40 mm case is stainless
steel, and the watch is water-resistant to 50 metres. (cb)
1.1, C91
an IP black crown and a
sapphire crystal. It is also
available in IP rose
gold. A lovely detail is
the seconds’ balance weight bearing the Rodania
emblem on its counterpart. Thanks to the
transparent
watch
case, one can admire the
popular automatic ETA Valjoux 7750 movement ticking
inside the Xseba.
1.2, B03
MONDAINE – The
second hand on the
Mondaine
stop2go
stops each minute
for two seconds,
turning a full circle every 58 seconds, like the
authentic Swiss
Railway Clock. The
case is a brushed
stainless steel. It is
water-resistant to 30
metres. Mondaine is the
creator of the Official
Swiss Railways watch
collection, licensed by the Swiss Railways SBB, and launched 27 years
ago. It represents the Swiss Railways
Clock, of which there are 3,000 in
Swiss train stations. The movement is
quartz and was developed exclusively
for Mondaine. (cb)
1.2, D45
38 WATCHES
IN PERSON: PETER SPEAKE-MARIN
The British watchmaker
exhibits its new pieces
in the Palace.
Speake-Marin Triad.
The 42 mm case is outfitted with a red gold bezel.
THREE TIMES A CHARM
ONCE MIGHT BE LUCKY, TWICE A COINCIDENCE, BUT THREE TIMES IS A PATTERN
A Londoner having studied at the Hackney Technical College – partially under the
expert tutelage of Peter Roberts – and then WOSTEP, in his early days SpeakeMarin specialized in restoration like most of today’s best watchmakers. He
moved to Switzerland in 1996 to work with Renaud & Papi on high complications
before striking out on his own in 2000. One of his most famous model families
is named Piccadilly as, he says, “The time I spent in Piccadilly remains the most
influential period of my career.”(ed)
by Elizabeth Doerr
B
outique brand SpeakeMarin continues along its
prolific path of introducing mechanical beauties.
The latest, christened
Triad, is the first piece attributed to
the new Mechanical Art line. Three
is a number heavy with symbolism
and meaning, and founder Peter
Speake-Marin loves to associate
meaning with his creations. Triad
celebrates the number three with a
triple time display comprising hour
and minute indications against the
background of an open dial displaying a perlage-decorated German silver base plate and the hours wheels
of each time indication that reveals
the mechanical art within. Tempered
Foundation-style hands, typical of
Speake-Marin’s creations, dance to
the beat of gold-plated topping toolshaped wheels – another characteristic Speake-Marin element – forming the points of an equilateral triangle around a smaller central toppingtool-shaped seconds wheel.
The opulent symbolism of the
dial side is balanced by the
restrained technical feel of the Eros
2 automatic movement visible on
the back, which is punctuated by an
explosion of bright blue colour:
Speake-Marin’s characteristic rotor,
which also takes on the shape of a
topping tool, is set against the back-
MESUT ÖZIL IS
CYRUS WATCHES’ NEW
AMBASSADOR
SKYLICIOUS
SUPERSTAR WILL DESIGN OWN WATCH
he DB28 Skybridge is a
moonphase watch, with a
titanium case and signature
sky blue dial colour in mirror-polished titanium. The dial is sprinkled with white gold and diamond
stars, topped with hour markers
resembling
tiny
suspended
spheres.
The spherical moonphase display is accentuated by an arrowshaped bridge that appears to be
pointing towards infinity. Two
flame-blued and mirror-polished
steel hands sweep across the dial,
highlighted by a minute circle. The
movement is hand-wound calibre
DB2015, with twin barrels for a sixday power reserve.
Palace, 2B
DE BETHUNE INTRODUCES DB28 SKYBRIDGE
by Carol Besler
T
M
esut Özil, superstar of the
Real Madrid soccer team
and a watch enthusiast, is
the new brand ambassador for
Cyrus, the Swiss luxury watch
brand based in Geneva, Switzerland.
The watchmaker announced
the three-year partnership with the
German athlete on April 27 at
BASELWORLD.
Özil will work with Cyrus on
several charitable causes, including Monaco’s “Only Watch” charity
auction on September 28. Cyrus
will also help design his own, limited edition watch.
The company was founded by
cousins Julien and Laurent
Lecamp. It debuted in 2010, after
six years of research and development, including working with
renowned master watchmaker
Jean Francois Mojon.
For BASELWORLD 2013, Cyrus
presents Kambys, its third line,
together with its popular Kuros and
Klepsys models. All use Cyrus’ own
movement, with 99 percent of parts
made in-house.
Palace, 4G
ground of a plate engraved with the
words “Limited Edition of 88”. This
movement boasts 120 hours of power reserve, which will take you well
through the weekend and beyond.
The 42 mm stainless steel case with
its luxurious “pleated” crown is harmoniously framed by an 18-karat
red gold bezel.
Palace, P01
Mesut Özil.
De Bethune’s DB28 Skybridge.
Turbine XS, A2044/1A
Double roTor
Technology
www.perreleT.com
hAll 1.1, booTh A51
42 MARKETS
INDIAN GEM AND JEWELLERY
EXPORT SECTOR GROWS
INDIA HAS THRIVING GOLD JEWELLERY MANUFACTURING AND DIAMOND PROCESSING INDUSTRIES, BENEFITING FROM A LOW-COST, HIGHLY-SKILLED
LABOUR FORCE AND STRONG EXPORT PROMOTION EFFORTS BY THE GEM AND JEWELLERY EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL (GJEPC).
by Pooja Agarwal
A glittering example of some beautiful
Indian jewellery from Asian Star Jewels.
I
ndia is one of the fastest
growing gem and jewellery
exporters in the world, benefiting from a huge pool of
low-cost but highly-skilled
labour. This most populous democracy in the world is also one of the
leading gold jewellery manufacturing exporters and top gold consumers worldwide, and has a vibrant
industry processing diamonds in
factories located in centres such as
Mumbai and Surat in Gujarat state.
Most of the world’s diamonds
pass through India during the
manufacturing process. Many of
the Diamond Trading Company
(DTC) Sightholders are Indian
companies. India’s low labour costs
and its high level of industry skills
have challenged traditional diamond hubs such as Antwerp.
Indian
jewellery
exports,
including gold medallions, were
13.09 billion US dollars in 2012, up
from 9.46 billion US dollars during
the previous year, according to the
Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC.)
Indian manufacturers can
export gold jewellery to the United
States duty-free up to a certain volume, whereas all Italian gold jewellery exports to the United States
have to pay duty. And finally, India
Sanjay Rothari, Vice
Chairman of KGK
Group’s diamond and
jewellery division.
Indian jewellery firms Dharmanandan and H. K. Designs at the India Pavilion.
has stepped up its promotion of its
gem and jewellery export industry
in recent years via more high-profile international trade shows
organised by the GJEPC.
INDIAN EXPORTS OF CUT & POLISHED DIAMONDS
in million US dollars
30,000
INDIAN DESIGNS
25,000
The India International Jewellery
Week (IIJW) has been a showcase
for Indian jewellery designs, blended with Bollywood-influenced
fashion style in glamorous catwalk
shows in Mumbai.
Using the latest technologies,
Asian Star Jewels is presenting
innovative designs and settings at
BASELWORLD this year, showcasing diamonds set in gold, silver,
palladium and platinum, in contemporary and fusion styling to
suit various price points. KGK
Entice, KGK Group’s high-end jewellerly brand, uses gemstones of
the highest calibre to present its
creative designs.
The GJEPC is promoting its
young designers as part of its
dynamic push to raise Indian gem
and jewellery exports around the
world. The diversity of Indian culture has a huge influence on Indian jewellery designs.
Indian companies are out in
force again at BASELWORLD this
year, with 36 companies represented in the India Pavilion in Hall
2.1 and 2.2. The “India Pavilion” at
BASELWORLD this year focuses
on providing buyers a complete
product offering with exhibitors
comprising leading exporters and
manufacturers of loose diamonds,
gemstones and jewellery. In Hall 2,
top Indian manufacturers share
space with the world’s most
renowned luxury brands displaying their finest collection in an
exclusive setting. This year the list
of Indian participants at BASELWORLD includes some of the best
names in the industry such as KGK
Entice, Sunjewels International,
Uni-Design, Dharmanandan, M.
Tarun, Nihalchand Girdharilal
among others.
“Design matters the most to our
clients. We offer something unique
with a an affordable price ranging
from 700 to 3,000 dollars,” says
Sunil Jain, President of Gemco
Design. The company uses all types
of natural gemstones and various
organic materials.
“India’s gem and jewellery sector has over the years not only
grown to a mammoth USD 38 billion industry, but has gained tremendous repute and goodwill
amongst industry peers internationally,” said Vipul Shah, Chairman, GJEPC. “With the new loca-
20,000
28,221
23,330
18,244
15,000
11,163
10,000
5,000
11,831
8,603
7,105
14,205
14,804
10,910
0
2002-03
2003-04 2004-05 2005-06 2006-07
2007-08 2008-09
2009-10
2010-11
2011-12
Indian exports of cut and polished diamonds have more
than doubled over the last ten years.
INDIAN GOLD JEWELLERY EXPORTS
in million US dollars
18,000
16,000
16,517
14,000
12,000
12,702
10,000
8,746
8,000
9,679
6,000
2,000
0
5,562
5,209
4,000
1,512
2002-03
2,666
3,784
3,882
2003-04 2004-05 2005-06 2006-07
2007-08 2008-09
2009-10
2010-11
2011-12
Indian gold jewellery exports have more than
tripled over the last decade.
tion in hall 2, our exhibitors will
have the opportunity to be present
among the best exhibitors from all
across the world as together they
will showcase some of their best
workmanship which will in turn
promote better growth prospects
for the gem and jewellery sector in
India.” Shah said that with jewellers participating from all over
India, BASELWORLD offers one of
the most ideal networking platforms for India to interact with key
players from across the globe.
DOMESTIC MARKET
The sharp drop in gold prices in
April was an opportunity for physical buyers in India – the world’s top
consumer of gold – to hunt for bargains. Indian gold futures slid to
15.5 month lows, following the
slide in international gold prices
earlier in the month.
Designer bridal jewellery created in fine diamonds and polki (flat)
diamonds is a big success with
Indian clients. “Emeralds in all
shapes are a big trend in the Indian
coloured gemstones market. Tanzanite beads are also popular,” says
BASELWORLD exhibitor Sushil
Soni, MD of Shwet Ratan Impex.
India is expected to see strong
growth in its highly competitive
domestic watches market in the
coming years, executives with
leading international watches
brands said. The Indian market for
Swiss luxury watch brands is about
110-120 million Swiss francs and is
dominated by Omega, Rolex, Tag
Heuer, Rado, Tissot and Hublot.
The Indian brand Titan is the market leader in India. Titan is the
fourth largest producer of watches
by volume, posting around 240
million Swiss francs in revenue.
PA RT O F T H E H O u S E O F
H A L L O F S E N S AT I O N S - B O O T H 1 . 2 D 0 5 - W W W. T O P B R A N D S g R O u P. c O m
MARKETS 45
JAPAN IS COMING
ALONG SPLENDIDLY
Grand Seiko
44GS replica.
IN THE LAST THREE YEARS THE WATCH INDUSTRY HAS RECOVERED
by Christoph Hoffmann
T
he global economic crisis was felt severely in
the Japanese watch
industry, with 2009 seeing turnover around 45
billion yen lower than in 2008,
when watches to the amount of
197.1 billion yen were sold. Since
then, the sector has largely recovered. The development of exports
has followed a similar trajectory. In
2008, watches with a total value of
119.2 billion yen were sold; in 2009
the figure stood at 87.1 billion yen.
The 2008 level has yet to be
regained. In 2012 turnover was
105.8 billion yen, still 13.4 billion
less than in 2008. The trend, however, is a positive one.
Analogue quartz watches continue to make up the lion’s share of
exported watches. In 2012, 39.7 million of these watches were sold,
along with 17.6 million digital quartz
watches and 2.6 million
mechanical
watches.
Two tendencies are
apparent here: the economic crisis has seen a
fall in the absolute number
of exported mechanical
watches from 3.5 to 2.7 million, with the number since
stagnating at around this level.
However, what is remarkable
here is that despite relatively
Dr. Daniel Mohr, managing director of
Buben & Zörweg China, at the opening
act of a new boutique in China.
BUBEN &
ZÖRWEG IN
BEIJING
I
constant sales figures, the value of
these watches has risen, in particular between the years 2011 and 2012.
In 2011, 2.7 million mechanical
watches with a total value of 11.5 billion yen were sold, in 2012 the figure
was 2.6 million mechanical watches
with a total value of 12.3 billion yen.
Between 2010 and 2011 there was
also a similar development in the
field of analogue quartz watches. In
each of these years 38.2 million
watches were sold; however, the
value of the watches sold increased
from 71.0 billion to 75.2 billion yen.
These figures not only show that
the Japanese watch industry has
developed well in recent years, but
also that the willingness to spend
more money on watches has risen
again.
Thousands of strands of tiny watch parts guide visitors into the Citizen stand in Hall 1.1.
SOUVENIRS FROM GERMANY
n collaboration with sales partner Sparkle Roll Group, a further InShop Boutique of the
acclaimed watch winder brand
Buben & Zörweg was recently
opened in Beijing. Joining the
InShop Boutique at Sparkle Roll
Luxury World in Jianguo Road in
Chaoyang, the new InShop Boutique in Sanlitun is the second in
Beijing. The newly-opened shopping centre The Sparkle Roll Luxury World presents renowned and
high-quality luxury brands such as
Richard Mille, Parmigiani, Boucheron and Bang & Olufsen in the
Chinese capital. In addition, the
world’s largest showroom of the
luxury automobile brand Bentley is
to be found here. Opulent ice sculptures in front of the shopping centre
were eye-catching elements at the
opening festivities. Managing Director Christian Zörweg is proud of the
new store: “For us, the second boutique in Beijing is a further key pillar in Asia from which to present
our masterpieces to passionate
enthusiasts and collectors and to
impress them with our presence
alongside other well-known luxury
brands.” (ahe)
2.0, D61
CHINESE BUY JEWELLERY AND WATCHES IN GERMANY
Interview by Axel Henselder
Photo: iStockphoto
W
ith foreign shoppers
accounting for 25 percent
of German watch and
jewellery retail sales, the segment
is experiencing enormous growth.
This is primarily because of the
Chinese. According to financial
services provider Global Blue, tax
free sales of watches and jewellery
amounted to 273 million euros. The
average purchase per customer
totalled 1,767 euros in the first half
of 2012. Tourists from Taiwan spent
957 euros, from Switzerland 1,010
euros, the USA 1,053 euros, Japan
849 euros, Singapore 1,561 euros,
Hong Kong 4,172 euros, the United
Arab Emirates 1,066 euros, Thailand 2,459 euros, Russia 1,350 euros
and China 2,564 euros. The most
popular cities for the purchase of
watches and jewellery in the period
from January to September 2012
were Frankfurt am Main, Munich,
Berlin, Düsseldorf, Cologne, Hamburg, Nuremberg, Stuttgart, BadenBaden and Hanover. In Frankfurt
am Main the number of overnight
stays by Chinese tourists in 2012
exceeded 100,000 for the first time.
Over half of the total tax-free sales
in Frankfurt are generated by Chinese customers. Frankfurt’s retailers are also focusing on tourists
from the Far East this year, particularly because the Chinese middle
class is continuing to grow. The
retailers feel themselves prepared
to face this development, with a corresponding alignment of the goods
on offer to meet their requirements
and with Chinese-speaking staff.
MIDDLE
CLASS IN
ASIA FINDS
ITS FEET
I
German watches and jewellery are popular with Chinese customers.
n seven years’ time Chinese and
Indians will be able to spend 10
trillion US dollars on goods and
services, according to a projection.
This will be three times as much as
in 2010, Boston Consulting Group
calculates. According to the BCG,
the driving force behind this growth
is the growing middle class in these
countries. This represents a significant opportunity for western brands,
as the share of high earners is set to
reach a billion people in both countries by 2020. (ahe)
46 MARKETS
MAINTAINING YOUR IMAGE
A GOOD REPUTATION HELPS A COMPANY STAND OUT
Photos: Getty Images (1), Fotolia (1)
by Axel Henselder
T
he annual public relations studies of the EHIInstitut (retail institute)
reveal a clear increase
in the significance of
PR. Ninety percent of the traders
surveyed in 2012 were of the opinion that PR had increased in signifi-
cance as a result of social developments. However, 80 percent of the
respondents also viewed the image
of retail as poorer than its actual
performance! The factors influencing a good reputation are difficult to
define – a reason for the Public
Relations working group of the EHI
to take a more detailed look at the
subject of reputation, as the relationship between communication
work and image is obvious.
RELEVANCE INCREASES
The project is supported by the PR
experts Weber Shandwick. Here are
the core findings of the EHI survey
on company reputation: most
respondents confirm that the relevance of a company reputation is
increasing in retail. A primary reason is that the companies have
become more vulnerable as a result
of networking and transparency (93
percent). This is joined by the fact
that interest in companies has
increased as a result of social developments such as environmental
disasters and economic crises (86
percent). What makes a reputation
good? According to the respondents
it is above all product range and
service experience (98 percent),
attitude of the company, i.e., its
credibility (96 percent), good leadership, good management (93 percent) and transparency (89 percent). About 45 percent of study
participants believe that consumers
place value on the reputation of a
company in theory but often do not
abide by this in practice. Significantly more than half of respondents believe that customers orientate themselves primarily towards
the geographic proximity of the
traders and price. Nearly all participants in the study (96 percent) are
convinced that the reputation is not
solely based on the consumers’
knowledge of facts, but that emotional aspects play an increasingly
vital role.
THE FIRST
IMPRESSION
COUNTS
T
he old adage that you never
get a second chance to make
a first impression also applies
for the reviewing of products. An
American study shows that consumers will continue to hold onto
their initial positive impression of a
product even when they subsequently become aware of less flattering reviews. This is important
information for traders. An original
positive review has far-reaching
consequences because buyers will
be hard to shift from their original
opinion, even in case of subsequent
negative reports. (ahe)
Overpromising is not our nature.
But pleasant surprises are.
We believe that little things matter. So in SWISS Business you’ll enjoy
a fully at bed, the best cuisine of Switzerland, and, as always, a smile.
For ights to over 74 destinations worldwide contact your travel agent
or visit swiss.com
SWISS is proud to support
BASELWORLD 2013
as oﬃcial carrier
050_300_Plane_Nose_270x180_Baselworld 1
24.04.13 10:43
tHE ONLy vEHICLE fROM DEtROIt BuILt ENtIRELy By HAND.
TH E R u nwE ll FEATU R I NG lUGG E d coNSTR UcTIoN, WATE R FoR d FRAm E AN d FoR k, 11- SpE E d I NTE R NAl h U b, dISk b RAkES, ASSE m b lE d I N dETRoIT.
As makers of handcrafted watches, bicycles, leather goods, and journals,
we believe that products should be built to last, and they should be
built here in America. Shinola stands for skill at scale,
the preservation of craft, the beauty of industry.
BASELWORLD HALL 1.2 BOOtH A23
SHINOLA.COM
JEWELLERY
THE CROWN
HIPSTER
OF JEWELLERY
Stephen Webster with
one of his pieces.
HIGHLIGHTS
50 SECRET
TREASURES
IN HIS 15TH YEAR AT BASELWORLD BRITISH LUXURY ICON
STEPHEN WEBSTER LAUNCHES NEW COLLECTIONS
Interview by David Brough
B
ritish luxury jeweller
Stephen Webster is
exhibiting at BASELWORLD for the 15th
year. The company has
been going from strength to strength
and it is the biggest British brand at
BASELWORLD 2013. Stephen Webster talks about his plans to launch
new collections and his stylish
stand.
BWDN: What are your new collections about?
Stephen Webster: We present collections across all three of the jewellery
sectors covered by the Stephen Webster brand: Men’s, Women’s Silver
and Fine Jewellery. The main focus
for us this year is the launch of a
new fine jewellery category which
will redefine our core product. We
have spent almost two years preparing collections with all the creativity
and excitement expected of us, but
with more variety on offer at
the entry to mid-price points.
This has taken real discipline to say the least and the
goal has been to cater to a
Batmoth brooch
from the Fly By
Night collection.
52 GROUP EFFORT
consumer with a budget who wants
true designer or fine jewellery.
What is special about the Stephen
Webster stand?
We are proud to be the sole British
jeweller exhibiting in the new development of BASELWORLD. This has
given us an opportunity to rethink
the way we look while retaining the
spirit of Stephen Webster. It didn’t
take us long to secure the talents of
architect Guy Holloway who,
amongst many other award-winning projects, designed my house,
apartment and now two of our boutiques, in Geneva and Kiev. Working
with input from the SW design team
and collaborating with a fine artist
from the art school I attended back
in my youth, our stand will be something to be seen.
What makes BASELWORLD
important for Stephen Webster to
attend?
It’s the first time we showcase the
collections and concepts we have
been working on for the previous
year and there is nothing quite like
the buzz that surrounds our stand.
Basel affects every single member of
the Stephen Webster team. Unbelievably, 2013 is the 15th year we
will have exhibited. From the very
humble beginnings of sharing a ten
square-metre stand we have grown
our business to become the interna-
IN THE SPOT
Nathalie Colin of Swarovski
talks about an imaginary
walk down the Silk Road, the
new collaboration with fashion designer Shourouk and
the importance of teamwork.
Six leading German jewellery
manufacturers join forces to
promote contemporary German jewellery culture on
global markets.
55 CELEBRATING
PASSION AND BEAUTY
de Grisogono founder
Fawaz Gruosi talks about
iconic collections and
honouring femininity.
56 FEMININE
TIMES
tional brand we are today by understanding the importance of being
part of where the luxury industry
shows off.
What are you looking for here this
year in terms of products, trends
and networking possibilities?
Well, I tend to lie on my chaise
longue, a permanent fixture in our
stand, and wait for the world to
come to me. Without fail it always
does.
What are your expectations for
business? How can BASELWORLD
help to achieve stronger sales?
BASELWORLD can help our company by continually reaching out to
the ever-changing and evolving jewellery retailer. It’s the role of the
show to maintain its relevance and
edge among the competition within
the world of show business. As
exhibitors it’s our role to keep exciting them once they have entered the
building.
2.2, C25
This year Pasquale Bruni
surprises with unexpected
masterpieces: seven jewelled
watches stand for the perfect
liason between feminity and
measuring time.
71 PLATINUM IS
READY FOR
LASER MELTING
Laser sintering is in
high demand and is able
to complement traditional
technology.
81 JADE IN ALL
SHADES
Striking colours and shimmering shine. Black, white,
grey or lavender jadeite fascinates with its appealing feel
and delicate carvings.
A FIERY PASSION FOR ICE
Jacob & Co.
A fabulous set of diamonds
Style
Diamonds deluxe! Jacob & Co. delivers on both
jewellery and watches in superlative sizes.
Background
Jacob Arabo continues to impress with the
quality of his creations – whether they be
jewellery or watches. At the company stand
at BASELWORLD, three showcases filled with
amazing coloured diamond jewellery can be
admired; it has literally taken years to gather
the stones.
Materials
The necklace has a total weight of 373.33
carats; the centre drop is 102.11 carats. The
bracelet has a total weight of 122.50 carats,
and each stone averages 10 plus carats.
Where to spot: 1.1, B31
HOT STUFF BY FRANK TRAUTZ UPDATES A CLASSIC
by Axel Henselder
F
rank Trautz made a name for
himself creating elegant jewellery in gold and silver. The
new Hot Stuff collection shows how
classic diamond jewellery can be
translated to our day and age.
The Pforzheim manufacturer
Frank Trautz can look back upon a
long tradition. Founded in 1928 by
Hermann A. Trautz, since 2007 the
company has been run by Frank
Trautz, the third generation of the
family. Modern concepts at attractive prices with German-made quality are the key strengths of the manufacturer. Today the company
employs a workforce of 200 and
supplies jewellery to leading jewel-
lers throughout the world. Around
75 percent of the collection is produced in gold, 25 percent in sterling
silver.
The focal point of the jewellery
design is the king of the gemstones,
the diamond. Frank Trautz consequently maintains purchasing offices in the key diamond trading locations of Antwerp, Mumbai and
Surat. The Hot Stuff collection works
with diamonds set using a micro
pavé technique. Created by nature
in the fiery depths millions of years
ago, formed by masters of their craft,
set precisely in gold by specialists
with microscopes, this is what characterises this unique collection of
Pegasus ring from Frank Trautz in 750
white and pink gold with 188 diamonds
2.94 ct SI 1/w.
brilliant-cut diamonds. These finest
jewels are sure to unleash the fire
and passion of any woman.
Frank Trautz is exhibiting in
Basel on the communal stand of the
Golden City of Pforzheim. 2.0, F71
50 JEWELLERY
NEWS
THE UNIQUE
TWIST
WITH THE GIRELLO ROTATING RING, MEISTER OCCUPIES A
PREMIUM NICHE IN SPECIALIST RETAIL
by Christel Trimborn
W
e developed our
first Girello rotating ring over ten
years ago and the
idea has been
continuously perfected since that
time,” says Fabian Meister, CEO of
the eponymous German-Swiss jew-
CHARRIOL – In time for BASELWORLD the Swiss brand has created
a new jewellery line, Timeless Elements, which represents a new
standard of jewellery craftsmanship.
It is inspired by the enduring charm
of personal or precious treasured
jewellery pieces that are handed
down from generation to generation.
Timeless Elements is composed of
four jewellery lines: Double Eight,
Tiger, Square & Circle and Paisley.
Every item in the range is worked in
precious materials of pink, white or
yellow gold, in cable design. The
Timeless Elements range is conceived
as a complement to Forever Young,
the younger, more fashion-forward
collection of cuffs, bangles and rings.
(cete)
1.1, E17
Fabian Meister, CEO of Meister.
ellery and wedding ring manufacture. Two aspects of the unique
jewellery ensure that both specialist retailers and end customers
worldwide are fascinated by the
rings: the extremely precise bearing technology and the multitude
of different design variants. Sometimes the outer rings are set with a
single row of undulating brilliantcut diamonds, sometimes with
graphically-arranged princess-cut
diamonds. “This year we have not
only extended the existing Girello
collection with, in some cases,
spectacular new designs, we also
offer our successful models in different ring widths,” says Fabian
Meister. The first days of the
BASELWORLD already provided
an indication that the new developments were meeting an enthusiastic response, continued the manufacture proprietor. The company is
supporting the already considerable interest of its trading partners
with additional advertising measures, customer events and an
impressive Girello image film.
Rotating rings Girello are available in yellow, white and pink gold.
Meister is also presenting
numerous other new products and
developments in addition to the
unique Girello rotating rings. For
example, the popular Sternenhimmel collection has been augmented
with the addition of attractivelypriced narrower rings. Also new
here are the diamond-set bauble
pendants in sizes of between 8 and
16 mm. “This jewellery is particularly well received in countries
where the presentation of morning
gifts is traditional,” reports Fabian
Meister. All of the jewellery is pro-
duced in white, pink or yellow gold
and decorated with white or
cognac-coloured diamonds and
can also be combined perfectly
with the Meister wedding rings.
“With the new jewellery in the
medium price range we have closed
the gap between the Meister wedding rings and the particularly
high-quality pieces from our manufacture. In this way we can offer
our partners a broad range of products that enable them to bind customers in the longer term,” says
Fabian Meister.
2.1, C05
ON THE TRAIL OF THE SILK ROAD
TYPICAL ELEMENTS OF DIFFERENT CULTURES CHARACTERISE THE AUTUMN/WINTER COLLECTION OF SWAROVSKI
Interview by Christel Trimborn
N
athalie Colin, Creative
Director
of
Consumer
Goods
Business
at
Swarovski Group, spoke to BWDN
about both the inspiration for the
new jewellery collection and the
inspiring co-operation with her
design team.
DUE PUNTI – A magic dwells in
each beginning, a fact already known
to Hermann Hesse. For some young
women the colourful silicon rings with
genuine diamonds from Due Punti
mark the beginning of a love affair
with the king of gemstones. The
designs are hip and fun. The numerous
colours match the fashion, are cheerful and ideal for colourful combination
and collecting. In addition to rings,
Due Punti also offers bracelets. Due
Punti is a brand of the BlueWhiteGroup. (ahe)
2.1, L51
BWDN: Secret Treasures is the
name of the new jewellery collection presented at BASELWORLD.
What key statements and colour
trends does it include?
Nathalie Colin: Secret Treasures is
evocative of an adventurous voyage
between orient and occident. The
entire collection is inspired by four
legendary stations along the centuries-old Silk Road: from China to
the Himalayas, from India to Venice.
Typical elements from each of these
locations and countries can be
found in the collection. Lush ornamentation from India and Venice
and the Chinese Yin and Yang symbol. As far as the colours are concerned, we have used a lot of black
crystal and mystically-shimmering
metal colours – frequently in combination with red gold. In between,
strong colour hues – such as fuchsia
– set expressive accents.
nearly every conceivable creative
field work for the Swarovski creative team. We have fashion and
jewellery designers, graphic artists,
illustrators, filmmakers..., and they
are all bubbling over with ideas.
This is why we are in the extremely
privileged position of only realising
the very best designs. All other
design approaches can be reconsidered and developed further where
appropriate.
Nathalie Colin,
Creative Director.
Swarovski is known for collaborating with different designers.
This year, for the first time, you
have developed a jewellery collection with the Franco-Tunisian
fashion designer Shourouk. Can
you tell us about that?
That’s right. I asked Shourouk if she
wanted to design a few pieces of
jewellery for the collection – not
least to strengthen co-operation
with the fashion world again. She
was immediately taken with the
idea. Shourouk now has a jewellery
range of her own, frequently
inspired by the fascinating world of
the maharajas. She also implemented this design approach for
Swarovski, complete with opulent
ornaments and motifs. One of the
most impressive pieces in the collection is an imposing, extremely
sinuous, crystal-coated necklace on
a black satin cord.
You have been Creative Director
at Swarovski since 2006. Do you
ever run out of ideas?
Oh no, quite the opposite! I have a
fantastic team around me, which
inspires me and fires my imagination. People from 22 nations and
What are the strongest sales markets for Swarovski jewellery and
what other markets do you aim to
inspire through your presence in
Basel?
Europe is definitely the strongest
market for our jewellery collection.
Closely followed by the US and Asia,
where China and Japan are in the
leading positions. One market that
we find extremely exciting for the
future is India. In India the women
traditionally wear a lot of jewellery
– but more fine jewellery. Custom
jewellery is still very new here and
that makes it particularly interesting
for us, of course. Not least because
we can sense that the curiosity for
something new from other countries
is very considerable.
1.1, C21
CELEBRATING 10 FABUL US YEARS OF TI SENTO JEWELLERY AT HALL 1.1/A09
www.tisento-milano.com - www.10fabulousyears.com
52 JEWELLERY
NEWS
SIX FOR THE PRICE OF ONE
GERMAN FINEST PRESENTS GERMAN JEWELLERY CULTURE IN BASEL FOR THE FIRST TIME
by Axel Henselder
O
JÖRG HEINZ – Revellion is the
name of the new ring idea from Jörg
Heinz. The name is derived from the
word for revelation. Because the
secret of the rings is an ingenious
mechanism contained within: with a
simple twist the contrasting-coloured
precious metal surface in the recessed
centre of the ring shank disappears to
reveal, as if by magic, a glittering
treasure: a row of embedded diamonds. The Revellion rings are available in various different alloys with a
choice of black or white diamonds. To
ensure that the secret does not inadvertently reveal itself the ring clicks
into a new position with each complete turn. Ingenious technology.
(ahe)
2.1, B21+B31
GUCCI – “Diamantissima” is the
name of the new collection for men
from the Gucci company. The silver
jewellery range shifts the spotlight
back onto the legendary Gucci motif:
the diamond pattern. The collection
comprises four items in an appealing
vintage look with the antique design
created using refined palladium. Diamantissima includes a multi-strand
chain bracelet, a matching necklace
with pendant and two rings in a wide
(12 mm) and narrow (8 mm) size.
(cete)
1.0, D49
MVEE – This high-quality cowboy
skull from MVee Haute Jewellery
embodies an exquisite blend of wildness, irony and beauty. The pendant is
adorned with brilliant-cut white diamond pavé and orange sapphires in a
white gold setting. But it is not just
this eccentric pendant which makes a
bold and lasting statement;
the Hong Kong-based company is also presenting
other exceptional jewellery items which
skilfully combine
fashion and fantasy. (cete)
2.1, D03
n the first floor of jewellery Hall 2 the
500-square-metre
communal stand of
German Finest is
impossible to miss. This is the first
joint appearance of the German
manufacturers Gebrüder Schaffrath,
Gellner, Henrich & Denzel, IsabelleFa, Michael Weggenmann and Jörg
Heinz. “We are very different as far
as our products are concerned, yet
we have a great deal in common: we
all stand for sophisticated design,
modern jewellery culture, a love of
innovation and German-made quality,” says Martin Heinz of Jörg Heinz,
one of the two Managing Directors
of German Finest. “We realised that
we can go a lot further together than
on our own in many areas,” adds
Alexander Leuz of Gebrüder Schaffrath. All of the members of German
Finest are family-run jewellery
manufacturers that stand out
through unusual creations and ideas and share similar values. “We are
all great brands in our own right,
but we would be unable to attract so
much attention at this major event
here in Basel if we didn’t make ourselves a lot more noticeable,” says
Martin Heinz. Customers also benefit from the German Finest package: here they can find six fine German manufacturers with uniquely
innovative jewellery ideas in one
place. “Our partner jewellers are all
looking for that special something.
Now we can also draw our customer’s attention to the products of our
partners, under one roof,” says Jörg
Gellner, the second Managing
Director of the group. Because each
Some of the brands
exhibiting under the
German Finest umbrella.
Sophisticated tourbillon
project from Wilhelm Rieber
and Gebrüder Schaffrath.
partner has such an unusual range
there is no fear of competing with
one another. In spite of everything
they have in common, the companies remain independent, nurture
their own brands and follow their
own jewellery philosophy. Each has
their own individual presentation
under one common roof. And what
is the response of the visitors to
BASELWORLD 2013 to German
Finest? “They are curious about
what it represents and ask about it.
With that the first step has already
been taken,” says Martin Heinz,
happily.
2.1, B21 + 31
DRAMATIC NEW JEWELLERY COLLECTIONS
JACOB & CO. DEMONSTRATES HIGHEST JEWELLERY EXPERTISE AT BASELWORLD
by Roberta Naas
I
t’s an all new year for Jacob &
Co., which has not only created
an amazing new exhibition
space, but is also unveiling multiple
new collections in its watch and
jewellery lines. In an unprecedented
move, the company is releasing
nearly ten completely new, ultradramatic jewellery collections that
are sure winners thanks to their
creative, stylistic designs. Among
the key collections that are turning
heads in the hallway: Unforgettable,
Serengeti, Aurora, Abanico and
Vienna.
The Unforgettable collection is
an incredible series of both jewellery and haute-joaillerie timepieces
that are at once bold, daring and
exotic. The dramatic appeal of this
line stems from the contrast of white
diamond pavé and black onyx cabochons, as well as from the juxtaposi-
tion of highly stylised crescentmoon shaped pieces with strong
geometric shapes.
A sparkling lace cuff
bracelet from Jacob & Co.
Similarly, the Serengeti collection is a mysterious and bold series
that reinterprets nature at its finest.
Inspired by the big cats of the Serengeti, Jacob & Co. has created
highly stylised claw-shaped jewellery that boasts sensual curves and
sharp edges. The series includes an
intriguing multi-row, open-worked,
diamond-set claw-link bracelet, and
enticing rings that can be worn individually or on multiple fingers for a
truly daring look.
Turning to the sky and
its intriguing colours
for
inspira-
A stunning oversized ring
from the US jeweller.
tion, Jacob & Co. unveils the Aurora
collection of diamond and coloured
gemstone jewellery. The Aurora features open-worked overlapping circles of diamonds with coloured
gemstone centres in light, airy cascading pieces. Key items include a
full-finger ring that is hinged to
bend at the knuckle for amazing
comfort.
Inspired by the impressive
baroque gardens of the famed city of
Vienna, Jacob & Co., in collaboration with Italian jewellery designers,
has also created a collection of lush
floral-inspired pieces, aptly named
the Vienna Collection. This handmade line features hundreds of gold
wires that form open-worked leaves
set in a larger leaf or flower motif.
The diamond-adorned pieces are
accented with peridot to emulate the
green of the gardens.
1.1, B31
H A L L 1 . 1 S TA N D C - 0 9
W W W. M I K I M O T O . C O M
KORLOFF CUT DIAMOND
73 facets
Hall 1.1 - stand a63
www.korloffparis.com
JEWELLERY 55
Earrings from the Melody
of Colours collection.
NEW PAGE IN HISTORY
DE GRISOGONO PRESENTS SELECTION OF ICONIC PIECES
Interview by Nina Hald
F
awaz Gruosi,
de Grisogono’s
Founder and
Creative Director speaks of
his ambitions to BWDN.
are most attentive to the consumer shifts and now, more than
ever, we look onward to infiltrate
recently emerging markets such
as Latin America and more precisely Brazil. These days consumers are no longer static, they
travel throughout the world and
so nowadays, we will not only
find Russians in Russia but in
England and Spain, for example. Supporting this idea, our
most successful boutiques are
the ones located in Europe,
such as Paris and London.
BWDN: What are the
most important company news and focus during BASELWORLD
2013?
Fawaz Gruosi: At the
moment, we are
going through a perpetual Renaissance;
with the same passion as before, but
with new emotions
for the collections we
present here, for our
company and global
objectives. At this
BASELWORLD,
de
Grisogono is opening a
new page in its history
by presenting a renewed
selection of iconic pieces
and gemstones.
What
part
does
BASELWORLD play
in reaching the company’s goals?
This time is crucial for us. We
not only meet with our key
players and partners from
around the world to present
our product novelties, but it is a
great opportunity to rekindle
relationships. It is a time also for
us to meet with the press that has
been so loyal during all these
years and thank them for their
continuous support.
What are the major markets for the brand?
The main markets for de
Grisogono are Russia, Middle East and the USA. We
What are the top debuts and
central themes for the brand at
BASELWORLD?
This year we
celebrate our
20th anniversary by honouring femininity. Thus all of our collections are ever so feminine, celebrating the sensuality, passion and
beauty; some of the many qualities
of women everywhere. Completing
our most iconic collections such as
Melody of Colours which celebrates
colour and love in a woman’s heart;
the Allegra collection brings back a
woman’s eternal youth and playful
side. And our Instrumentino collection celebrates the elegance and
grace of a woman’s life.
What does your brand stand for
in a world of luxury?
Four words describe de Grisogono:
Creativity, innovation, passion and
freedom. This year we focus on new
materials, new collections and constantly re-inventing the colour palettes of precious stones.
The technical competence of the
brand has been proven on several
occasions: What’s next?
We always keep moving forward.
We are always inspired and passionate about what we do – and
always remind ourselves that nothing is impossible.
1.1, D39
Fawaz Gruosi, Founder of de Grisogono.
Watch from the Instrumentino collection.
TIMES CHANGE, BUT BEAUTY
ALWAYS REMAINS THE SAME
TIMELESS CLASSICS BY DI.GO
Interview by Annalisa Fontana
C
reations by Valenza-based
jewellers continue to interpret the Italian jewellery tradition with great consistency and
speak a language of unchanged
appeal. Di.Go jewellery is a perfect
example of how to create classic
pieces in step with the times.
Valentina Callegher prefers to
let her work speak for itself and
opens the doors to her workshops in
Valenza, where timeless pieces of
classical jewellery are designed and
manufactured. These pieces attract
great attention in shop window displays, while their rigorous design
exalts the quality of the gems and
the fine workmanship. Although
they are great classics, they are
designed to appeal to women of all
ages by interpreting different styles
and tastes. They are a great example of fine Italian jewellery: rich in
individual gems set in sparkling
mounts, soft pavé settings, ribbons
of light in more linear wedding
Rings from the Opera Collection.
rings made exclusive by stones with
unusual cuts, intarsia effects created with diamonds in original
shades, and clusters of pearls.
Valentina Callegher is also opening the doors of the stand at BASELWORLD 2013 in just the same way,
showing off the most recent versions
of her collections and the new products in the lines recognised and
appreciated by her international clientele. This year she has been more
daring in her choice of materials,
which are unusual but always precious, featuring colour combinations
inspired directly by the prêt-à-porter
fashion catwalks.
Classico, Colore, Perle and Fashion are the four main trends, if they
can be described as such, each with
their own identifying character in
terms of style and materials.
Classico offers real masterpieces that show off the strength of the
gems: from rare pink and yellow
diamonds to traditional white diamonds cut in unusual and sophisticated styles, and intensely coloured
sapphires, rubies and emeralds, as
The Di.Go stand provides insight into its most recent collections.
well as strips of soft pavé settings. In
the Perle line, diamonds in fashionable colours surround Tahitian,
Australian and freshwater pearls in
shades that vary from natural white
to unusual nuances of cream, pink,
purple, gold, chocolate, grey and
black. As sparkling and as exuberant as its name suggests, Fashion
presents whimsical cocktail jewellery in stunning shapes and colours.
It includes unusual combinations of
natural fancy diamonds in different
cuts and colours within the same
set. The chunky rings come in deli-
cate shades such as pink and
cognac, contrasting colours such as
black and white and total white.
Valentina Callegher tells us, “I
always want to stress that all our
pieces of jewellery have one thing in
common: the most traditional materials, such as emeralds, rubies, blue
sapphires, diamonds and pearls.
These clearly derive from classical
jewellery, but are interpreted with
designs and technology that consider
the current demand for lightness and
wearability, packing important values into subtle volumes.”
2.2, G16
56 JEWELLERY
3 QUESTIONS,
3 ANSWERS
TIME IS FEMALE
Pasquale Bruni
and his daughter
Eugenia Bruni.
PASQUALE BRUNI SIGNS OFF HIS FIRST JEWEL WATCHES
“In Basel we find
everything we need
for our stores.”
How long have you been coming to
BASELWORLD?
“The first time I came to Basel was
30 years ago. Since then Basel has
been a ‘must‘ for me. Today our
family has three retail stores in Santiago de Chile, I run the business
with my sister.”
Which products are most interesting?
“Here we select all the products and
brands that we have in the store. We
sell Rolex, Cartier, Omega, Longines,
Tissot and other Swiss watches. In
jewellery we carry Roberto Coin,
Brumani, Franco Pianegonda, Baccarat and some other brands.”
What is special about BASELWORLD,
in your opinion?
“It is an elegant show where we find
lots of inspiration and new ideas.
We have meetings regarding watch
brands, jewellery, diamonds, packaging… And, of course, we don’t
miss the opportunity to cultivate
the relationships with our colleagues
and friends from all over the world.”
Valeria Laskowitz, designer and
Managing Partner of Stefan Joyeros,
Santiago, Chile.
Interview by Roberto Chilleri
T
he range of this exclusive line stretches from
the Atelier Pasquale
Bruni designer pieces to
the more affordable collections, like Le Monde. And this
year’s captivating new models
include unexpected masterpieces:
seven outstanding gold and diamond watches that express the very
essence of femininity to perfection.
BWDN: Signor Bruni, is this the
first time you have made jewel
watches?
Pasquale Bruni: Let’s say that it’s the
first time they have my name on
them. As for manufacturing, my
first experience was when I was still
a boy. I was apprenticed to a great
jeweller, and at the end of the working day I would go over to another
shop, which specialized in watches.
Your masterpieces are part of that
sphere of wristwatches in which
customers look primarily at the
style and beauty of the decoration.
Yes, the ladies who love the jewel
watch are less interested in the
mechanical complications that
intrigue the male of the species. A
Pasquale Bruni watch is a jewel that
is also designed to measure time. I
always imagined the watch as the
ideal showpiece, designed with the
same concept, and I finally made
my dream a reality, choosing a collection that I identify with deeply,
Prato Fiorito.
And no one was able to see anything before BASELWORLD?
Exactly. I can tell you that our watch
is certainly “one-of-a-kind”, which
we created in seven different versions: in yellow gold, rose gold,
white gold, with or without diamonds. In particular, four of the
models are manufactured in a limited series of 46 pieces, celebrating
the years of my career as a designer,
and feature a gold or gold and diamond bracelet, handmade in our
atelier. Three other models have a
silk strap in red, white or black. I
fully intend to repeat this lovely
experience in the future, creating
watches with the motifs of other
iconic collections.
Your stand has always been stunning, but this year you have surpassed yourselves ...
We wanted a stand worthy of this
great venue. It’s much larger, at
over 360 square metres, and the
colours are brighter. Our designers
partnered with Studio Lapis of
Turin for the concept, which is
inspired by the decorative motifs of
our collections.
Is this year dedicated only to the
timepiece?
In addition to watches we’ll be
showing some beautiful jewellery
lines, which I worked on with my
daughter Eugenia, our maison’s Art
Director. We’ll also be previewing
the new Atelier line of one-off pieces, which we have produced with
large stones this year, as well as
with pavé motifs.
Is it true that you’ve opened a
store in China?
The Hengdeli group, the leading
distributor of high-end timepieces
in Greater China, chose us to represent high-end “Made-in-Italy” products in its new jewellery retail
project and I can’t deny that I’m very
proud. We’re currently present with
a shop-in-shop in Hangzhou’s luxury Dragon Hotel arcade.
1.1, B35
Flower Time watch by Pasquale Bruni, in
white gold and diamonds.
A UNIQUE BRAND UNIVERSE
THE MARCEL ROBBEZ-MASSON GROUP AT BASELWORLD FOR THE FIRST TIME
by Kyra Brenzinger
NEWS
MATHON PARIS – “Demoiselle” is
the name of the new collection from
the renowned Mathon Paris company.
The jewellery items are made using
the elaborate plique-à-jour enamelling technique and give the company’s iconic figure, the dragonfly, an
Art Nouveau style. Mathon Paris is
one of the few manufacturers in
France to use this enamelling technique. (cete)
2.1, C45
T
he Marcel Robbez-Masson
company, founded in 1962,
brings together several jewellery brands and offers store concepts which it hopes to present to
international retailers during its
first appearance at BASELWORLD.
“The profession is ever-changing and the current commercial
revolution requires us to constantly
adapt. We were the first to offer jewellery franchises in France and we
are now internationalizing these
concepts with our Oressence and
Murat Paris brands,” explains Frank
Ring, 925 silver,
interlaced.
Robbez-Masson, Chief Executive
Officer of the group.
A FRENCH TOUCH
The concept of Oressence boutiques
was launched in 2010 and aims to
offer jewellery which falls between
luxury and traditional, pairing
quality with accessibility. “Our
range of jewellery represents a
comprehensive, feminine, diversified and innovative offer on the
market,” says Nadia Gaumont,
Director of Development for the
Marcel Robbez-Masson company.
“The first Oressence boutique concept opened in Paris in 2012 and
fashioned its decor to reflect its
image: friendly, pure, intimate and
warm. The refined luxury in this
boutique treasure chest reveals a
unique brand universe in warm
colours along with bronze and ivory which are replicated in all of the
boutiques
and
corners
of
Oressence”.
For its first presentation at the
BASELWORLD show, Oressence is
offering several themes in its new
collection which play on the con-
Hortense,
yellow gold
and peridots.
trast of black & white with dual
colour pavé and animal themes,
most notably including the snake,
the Chinese astrological symbol for
2013. To reflect the brand’s key colour codes, chocolate-coloured diamonds are paired with brown diamonds in the Barroco, Smoky and
Brown Moon ranges.
MURAT PARIS, A BRAND OF
CHARACTER
The oldest brand of the RobbezMasson Group, founded in 1847 by
Charles Murat and repurchased by
the group in 1999, has been significantly rejuvenated. The concept of
boutiques and corners offers colour
schemes in turquoise blue and white
which are particularly refreshing.
“By the end of 2013, the French network will include some 30 boutiques. However, our presence at
BASELWORLD demonstrates our
desire to develop partnerships
abroad in the form of boutiques or
corners,” says Sonia Balay, who is
responsible for the brand. 2.1, A61
www.stefanhafner.com
Principessina Collection
Baselworld halle 1.1 - booth D01
58 JEWELLERY
Pendant and ring from
the Favorite collection.
Is this a concept you intend
to offer to retailers at
BASELWORLD?
We have not yet rolled out the
furnishings or shop-in-shop concept but we are considering it for
2014. However, our new jewellery
collection will benefit from a new
packaging and POS area.
Dominique Delale, Vice-Chair of the jewellery and accessoires unit at Baccarat.
MARGIN FOR DEVELOPMENT
BACCARAT CONTINUES ITS PROGRESSION IN THE JEWELLERY INDUSTRY
Interview by Kyra Brenzinger
W
ith its new stand
at the BASELWORLD
trade
show and an
enriched collection comprising more accessible
prices to reach out to a broader client base, the Baccarat company has
confirmed its development in the
jewellery sector. Dominique Delale,
Vice-Chair of the jewellery and
accessories business unit, gives us
an exclusive interview.
BWDN: Can you explain your
new stand concept for Basel?
Dominique Delale: Our stand for
the trade show draws inspiration
from the new boutique concept
designed by Rafael de Cárdenas
for our flagship store on Madison
Avenue in New York which we will
be unveiling in June. The
160-square-metre stand for Basel
uses this luxury staging to present
our world of jewellery. The dominant colours are Makassar brown
and taupe grey highlighted with
gold leaf.
Is this scenography something
you intend to incorporate into
your boutiques?
We are currently using this concept
at our space in Harrods in London,
at our current boutique on Rue de la
Paix in Paris, which has recently
been revamped, and at a new Parisian boutique planned for September
on the left bank in Paris.
What new items are you launching for spring and summer?
We are launching the B Mania and
B Flower collections which were
inspired by the designs of the iconic
Harcourt collection and revisit glass
detailing: crystal cabochons with
flat ribbing, like that featured on
glass paraison, are transformed into
rings or silver pendants; in the same
way, hexagonal forms and the “triple button” opens up to all kinds of
interpretation in a mesh-work
design while charms decorate silver
chains. Inspired by the sixties, B
Flower reinterprets the rib-cut look
with crystal corollas representing
the inside of a flower in black, clear
crystal or the superb peony colour.
Are you also exhibiting any
autumn/winter collections in
Basel?
We have designed the B Lovely
range, which is also inspired by
Harcourt designs and which pairs
the lightness and finesse of openwork vermeil with flat ribbing, letting the light through and unfolding
the colour of the crystal cabochons
which are featured as long necklaces decorated with miniature
charms. We are also presenting the
Favorite collection as a homage to
King Louis XV who granted the
creation of the manufacturer in
1764. Created by Aude Lechère, this
collection reflects the jewellery
worn by the audacious Madame de
Pompadour. Mounted on vermeil,
with a clear golden rose crystal,
each item revisits the vintage aesthetics of the cameo, signed with
the B symbol for Baccarat. We will
also be unveiling the Galea and
Papillon ranges with items which
start from 180 euros.
So can you confirm that the jewellery sector will remain a priority in your strategic development?
This is undoubtedly a sector with a
substantial margin for development
because our aim is for this sector to
represent one fourth of our turnover. We have begun a major turnaround in our company development strategy in terms of image,
products, boutique concepts and
international development through
the opening of new points of sale in
Hong Kong, New York and the Middle East. I would like to conclude by
saying that our jewellery will be
celebrated in particular as part of
the celebrations for our 250th anniversary from the end of 2013 and
throughout 2014.
1.1, E15
PRECIOUS AND MODERN
FINE JEWELLERY MEETS CONTEMPORARY DESIGN WITH VHERNIER
by Roberto Chilleri
T
he manufacturing capacity of
Valenza’s jewellers is so
extraordinary that, in the last
few decades of the 20th century, this
small town became known as the
international capital of fine jewellery. Milan, however, is known to
everyone as the city of Italian fashion and design, characterised by
functional yet pleasing forms. Let’s
now suppose we combine these two
cultures, the great jewellery-making tradition of Valenza with Milanese contemporary design. At this
point, how could the great jeweller
Vhernier not come to mind? With its
style centre in Milan and manufacturing base in Valenza, this brand
has always played a leading role at
BASELWORLD, where it has
returned this year to exhibit its latest products in a stand that certainly
lives up to its quality. The new items
include the fantastic one-of-a-kind
rings from the Flower collection,
using stones of extraordinary size,
purity and cut. These rings are
characterised by the harmony of the
stones and the gold forms. Vhernier
will also be presenting new lines
of earrings, rings and necklaces produced on a small
scale, making the brand’s
unmistakable style accessible to a wider and younger
public.
GLOBAL SUCCESS
This style has been safeguarded
and promoted by Carlo and Maurizio Traglio, Managing Director
and Chairman of Aura Holding,
which has owned Vhernier since
2001. They have also created a
direct sales network that has
helped get the brand known
amongst the right people. In just
a few years, the company has
opened ten boutiques: Milan,
Rome, Venice and Capri, as well as
Paris, Geneva, Athens, Dubai, Beverly Hills and Miami. To these we
can add shop-in-shops from Saks
Fifth Avenue to Palm Beach, New
York and Houston, and prestigious
jewellery retailers in many cities
around the world. These have
proved to be winning decisions, as demonstrated by the
brand’s growth. The sales
have quadrupled over a tenyear period under the management of the Traglio family – and
its success with celebrity clientele.
In fact, the stars who have worn
Vhernier jewellery include Jane
Fonda, Demi Moore, Uma Thurman
and Jessica Biel. Carlo Traglio is
proud to have achieved such
renown, succeeding in preserving
the connotations of a prestigious
niche brand and the handcrafted
production in Valenza, where the
company was founded in 1984.
Three years ago, the company also
Vhernier has always played a leading role at BASELWORLD.
took over De Vecchi, the Milanese
brand that has gone down in the history of contemporary silver, producing such beautiful objects (designed
by top designers) that they have
been exhibited or purchased by the
Victoria & Albert Museum in London, the Musée des Arts Decoratifs
in Paris and the Triennale in Milan.
Traglio’s great love of contemporary
art also explains why he wanted
Vhernier, a company where hand-
Brooch Palloncino, white gold, diamonds, chrysoprase and rock crystal.
crafted production is key to every
creation and each item of jewellery
is a unique piece inspired by trends
in modern art. The jewellery is often
distinguished by stones cut into
original shapes, which become an
integral part of the sculptural pieces: carnelian, chrysoprase, sugilite,
siderite, white opal, jet, etc. This
unlimited experimental vein also
makes use of modern materials
such as titanium.
2.2, C07
Murano Collection,
62 JEWELLERY
THE PREMIERE
OF A NEW LOCK
CEO Mikkel Kornerup is proud to
present Shamballa Jewels for the
second time at BASELWORLD.
SHAMBALLA JEWELS EXPANDS BRAND’S UNIVERSE
Interview by Nina Hald
M
ikkel
Kornerup,
Shamballa Jewels’
CEO, is looking forward to introducing
the news of the
brand. Customised and precious, the
news this year centres on a reinterpretation of the tennis bracelet.
BWDN: What is the most important company news during
BASELWORLD 2013?
Mikkel Kornerup: We are unveiling
three novelties, and a lot of new
designs.
Businesswise, our company is
on a path of rapid global expansion.
We look forward to meeting potential and existing retail partners. Our
only flagship store is in Copenhagen, so our stall at BASELWORLD
is a good way for us to show them
our universe and introduce visitors
to our world – who we are, where
we come from and what
our future plans
are.
launch our new designs here, so it
is a very important show for us.
What are the brand’s major markets?
Europe and the US are our biggest
markets currently. We are present,
and continuously adding, new
retailers in East Europe and Russia. We just launched in Hong
Kong and work is in progress for
Dubai. I believe our growth will
continue to come from Russia and
Eastern Europe. The opportunities
Asia offers – in China, Japan and
even Korea – are huge and we are
working towards entering those
regions.
What are the top debuts for the
brand at BASELWORLD?
The debut of our brand’s new
lock. Our bracelets are synonymous with the toggle balls at the
ends. We will be adding a new
one to the family, it is a completely new style and the mechanism
has taken us some time to develop
and perfect. The novelties have a
completely different design,
structure and yet they are reminiscent of the iconic Shamballa
Jewels bracelet.
What part does BASELWORLD
play in reaching the company’s
goals?
BASELWORLD offers the opportunity to meet with partners, media
and people interested
in jewellery from
all over the world.
Rubies, gold and
diamonds make
for a winning
combination.
It is an excellent place to network,
build your business and to present
your brand globally. Given the huge
reach of BASELWORLD, we always
GOLD MEETS WOOD MEETS CORIAN
HOW’S BUSINESS?
SCHEFFEL-SCHMUCK USES UNUSUAL MATERIALS THAT INSPIRE
NEW WAYS OF THINKING
T
he highest standard of craftsmanship, best quality and
contemporary design: these
have long been the cornerstones of
the German company ScheffelSchmuck. In addition, the jewellery of Scheffel-Schmuck is primarily also characterised by the
use of distinctive materials: in the
Gold Meets Wood collection, for
example, a natural material and
precious metal come together.
Alongside the artistic aspect,
the challenge posed to craftsmanship is particularly
great: Scheffel has developed
a new technique to lend an
even and perfect form to the
irregular, often extremely
hard wood. The wood is
processed using state-of-theart CNC technology, enabling
the highest precision and perfect symmetry of the jewellery
Bracelet
made from
Honduras
palisander
with natural
brown diamonds and
pink gold.
to be achieved. Corian, a material
frequently used in architecture and
interior design, is also an established component of the ScheffelSchmuck collections. This stable yet
easily workable material is also
processed using CNC technology. In
combination with gold, brilliant-cut
diamonds and high-quality gemstones the result is a discreet luxury
with an appealing design. The company has also discovered a highquality replacement for ivory in the
form of the material elforyn. “With
its soft, warm shimmer, which
adapts to different skin tones, the
material has a particularly seductive and luxurious appearance,”
says Managing Director Axel
Scheffel.
2.1, F21
Ring made from elforyn and red
gold with coral and champagnecoloured, brilliant-cut diamonds.
Thomas Frieden,
proprietor of Swiss jewellery firm
Frieden Creative Design.
What does your brand stand for
in a world of luxury?
Shamballa Jewels has carved a
niche for itself. We represent
modern fine jewellery that is
extremely customised and has an
everyday, casual look to it. We are
a modern brand for a new world,
where fine jewellery is not locked
away and worn only for special
occasions. Our jewellery is versatile, it can be worn on the red
carpet or on the beach. At the
same time, we incorporate classic
techniques and carry on the tradition of crafting jewellery by hand.
Our signatures are the macramé
technique and the pavé setting.
We were the first to incorporate
the ancient macramé technique
in fine jewellery.
2.1, C73
“Europe is stricken by
economic uncertainty
and the jewellery sector is undergoing a
period of structural
transition. Luxury
watches are performing well, thanks to
demand from Asian
customers, jewellery
remains in the shadow
of this development. As
a consequence, jewellers are forced to turn
to local consumers, and
these act differently
depending on country
and region.”
64 JEWELLERY
IN THE SPOT
Sparkling ring from Mimí Milano.
Presenters at the Mimí stand.
LUXURY FOR
ALL OCCASIONS
MIMI, MILANESE STYLE AND COLOURS
IN THE WORLD OF JEWELLERY
by Roberto Chilleri
THE
ENERGY OF
THE SUN
ERNST STEIN FOCUSES ON
EMERALD GREEN AND
LEMON YELLOW
by Axel Henselder
T
he starting gun for spring
2013 has sounded: When the
sun grows in strength and
nature is waiting in the starting
blocks, ready to unfurl its glorious
colour, this is when sunny yellow
and strong green hues come up
trumps. The jewellery brand Ernst
Stein has drawn inspiration from
nature, offering glowing yellow citrines and greenly-shimmering prasiolites this spring and summer,
amongst other colours.
These are gemstones that practically carry the energy of the sun
within themselves. By the way, the
colours also match the fashions:
according to colour expert Pantone,
emerald green and lemon yellow
are among the key colours of the
2013 season. A look at the international catwalks confirms this: green
and yellow are firm favourites of
the fields of fashion, accessories
and beauty. Those daring to appear
in a complete outfit in the trend
colours can set sophisticated
accents with the luminescence of
coloured gemstones. These are
manifested effectively in the rings,
earrings, necklaces and bracelets of
Ernst Stein.
3.0, D 13
W
hen she began
taking part in the
life of the family
business she was
little more than a
girl. But unlike her peers, who
played with glass beads, Giovanna
Broggian was already getting to
know natural stones and this sowed
the seed of an eternal love. Indeed,
even though she graduated brilliantly in architecture, instead of
devoting herself to the design of
houses, she preferred to start
designing jewellery for Mimí
Milano, the family brand. It’s a
make that really resembles her
because it caters to women like her:
those who don’t lock up their jewels
in the safe, who go to work in the
morning wearing a sautoir and,
before going home in the evening,
pop into a cocktail party with the
necklace circling their waists or
maybe wrapped around a wrist.
It’s precisely the longer length
necklace, which had fallen out of
fashion favour for several years,
also owes its amazing, quite recent,
revival to Mimí. Founded in 2000,
the Milanese brand has captured
the attention of international clientele thanks to the rich heritage of
the Broggian family, whose experience in the world of stones and
pearls dates back to the 1960s. Mimí
has used this family expertise to
great advantage and is appreciated
for its ability to use precious materials with relaxed sensitivity, giving
rise to unusual colour combinations. The very unique style is a
clear pointer to the background of
the company, which has always
been linked to Milan, a capital of
fashion and design. And it was here
too that they inaugurated their first
boutique last year, located in the
heart of the Quadrilatero della
moda fashion district. “More than a
store, it’s an outright home for the
Mimí woman,” says Marketing
Manager Sophie Nguyen. “The origin of every new collection derives
from the thrill of a journey, an experience that our art director links to a
particular memory, or an object.
And the boutique is fitted out with
just those objects and furniture collected while travelling. This is not a
traditional jewellery store but a
warm environment, open also to
temporary exhibitions of other
forms of art, fashion and design.
The boutique also inspired a collection of one-of-a-kind jewellery
bearing the name of the street, Via
Gesù 3.”
Some stunning previews are
planned for BASELWORLD: “We
were the first of the major brands to
introduce freshwater pearl collections of precious jewellery, because
they come in fantastic pastel colours,” says Sophie Nguyen. “Recently the cultivation of freshwater
pearls has given incredible results:
our new collections boast perfectly
round, 14 mm pearls, and freshwater baroque pearls so large that a
few years ago they weren’t even
imaginable.”
More news comes from the
Etoile collection, showing that even
in all-diamond jewels, the combination of classic cut diamonds and
white gold can be original, conveying not only femininity and lightness, but also the brand’s own
unique touch.
1.1, E13
Cookson
Precious Metals
Laser sintered
bracelet in gold
Style
Cool, sophisticated,
unusual: this bracelet stands
out through its distinctive
appearance, based on the
designs of Towe Norlén.
Background
The British company Cookson
Precious Metals (CPM)
implements jewellery designs
via laser sintering. Cookson
has developed a new machine
for this process which enables
the manufacture of complex
design ideas such as these
within one day, as well as making
it possible to test and change the
design rapidly, without the
requirement for tooling, moulds
or milling path programming.
Towe Norlén has been working
with laser sintering in gold
since 2000.
Material
The bracelet is made from 18K gold
and set with diamonds.
Where to spot: 4.U, F.23
EXERCISES IN STYLE
CLIORO AIMS TO ADDRESS
NEW TARGET GROUPS
by Axel Henselder
C
lioro is extending its range in
order to expand its target
group and stimulate sales –
this has been the new strategy of the
German-Italian company since
2012. The newest delights to emerge
from the company are select yet
casual sautoirs, which are particularly striking in the twin-rowed version. The rounded perfection of the
golden sections of this pea chain
deliver prestigious sparkle in combination with small diamonds. The
models are already highly sought
after and are offered in all gold colours. A version made entirely from
gold with ornamental oval tags
forming the word “Amore” is also
available. The new range is augmented by bracelets with stones in
droplet-shaped briolette cut, carefully drilled and secured in suspended form with loops. The stones
are azure-blue topaz, amethyst and
orange tourmaline, supplied by one
of the best gemstone cutters in IdarOberstein. The gentle lightness of
the new range of necklaces and
bracelets
joins
the
numerous,
more opulent
models that form
the basis of the
success of the company, as
well as the earrings
launched in 2012,
some of which are
lavishly set with
Top Wesselton
VS diamonds.
2.1, G83
Necklace in pink gold;
bracelets in pink gold
with orange
tourmalines,
amethysts and
azure-blue topaz
from Clioro
JEWELLERY 67
LUXURIOUS LUSTRE
WHETHER THEY ARE MATT OR SHINY: PRECIOUS
METALS TAKE CENTRE STAGE AS SOLO ARTISTS
T
here is no room for false
modesty here: this season precious metals can
shine
and
gleam,
because metals are set
for their big performance – including without any additional colour
effects. In the field of interiors as
well as fashion, eye-catching metal
effects are a must-have: eccentric
fashionistas are cladding themselves in silver and gold, for example. Those that prefer to be less
obvious and yet still cause a shine
integrate metallic shimmering elements into their summer outfits.
Modern
high-tech
materials,
sequins or shimmering satin provide the beguiling shine here. The
successful creations of international
fashion designers ensure that the
outfits do not become too futuristic.
Metallic looks as dress, skirt, trouser suit or jacket are eminently
wearable, after all. Glamorous
accents are also delivered in the
form of shoes, bags, belts or glittering make-up. International furniture and interior designers have
also incorporated the theme of metal in numerous different variants.
For example, the low nickel-plated
aluminium side table Gem from
Tom Dixon is a playful homage to
the facetted surfaces of precious
stones: bearing angular indentations across its body, the hexagonshaped table top reinforces its gem
name.
FROM PLAIN TO VOLUMINOUS
In the area of jewellery it is primarily voluminous jewellery pieces
that emphasise the metallic trend.
Coloured gold alloys, platinum,
brass or silver are effectively utilised – without the additional support of diamonds or coloured gemstones. The creative manufacturers
use stylish bicoloured or even tricoloured combinations as well as
decorative smithing techniques as
design elements. For example, the
Brazilian jewellery designer Carla
Amorim has arrayed metal pellets
alongside one another for her Bondinho range. She knows how to com-
bine apparent contradictions tastefully with one another – her jewellery appears fashionable and timeless as well as voluminous and
feminine. Similarly, de Grisogono
also attracts attention with large,
golden baubles: with the Boule collection the company shows its playful side. The silver bracelet from
Baccarat lies on the wrist of the
wearer in an almost angular, large
format form. It is characterised by a
geometric appearance that accentuates the sophisticated shiny surfaces perfectly. Companies such as
Escada and Aigner focus on the
charm of bicoloured and tricoloured metal combinations. Whilst
Escada’s Ivory ladies’ watch combines contrasting stainless steel
and gold-plated surfaces in both
the bracelet and case, the plain,
oval form and the tricoloured
aspect of the intricate elements
lend the jewellery of Aigner an
elegant femininity.
10
2
1
3
4
7
5
8
6
9
1 Aigner | 2 DeGrisogono | 3 Carla Amorim | 4 Roberto Demeglio | 5 Escada | 6 Dior | 7 Baccarat |
8 Yvel | 9 Tom Dixon | 10 Airfield
130
years
of watchmaking
history
Alpina 130 Pilot Heritage Chronograph
To celebrate its 130th anniversary, the Swiss watch manufacture
Alpina, re-edits one of its iconic historic pilot models. Since
1883 Alpina conceives and manufactures its own movements
in-house and has revolutionized the concept of the modern
sports watch. Our mission is now, and has always been, to
manufacture extremely reliable professional sports watches
which transmit our historic legacy. It is our reason of being and
the purpose of our work.
www.alpina-watches.com
HALL 1.2 BOOTH A41
G U E S S J E W E L L E RY. C O M
INNOVATIONS 71
DEMAND FOR LASER SINTERING
IS ON THE INCREASE
AT JUST
ONE
TOUCH
THE FIRST SOLUTIONS FOR PLATINUM ARE ON DISPLAY AT BASELWORLD
WITSCHI INTEGRATES
TOUCHPAD AND TABLET
by Pia Grund-Ludwig
by Markus Strehlitz
T
he production of individual items of jewellery directly from CAD
data
is
something
which initially caused a
real stir at BASELWORLD two years
ago. Lasers are used to melt the precious metal powder. The companies
have now invested a great deal to
refine their solutions. In one of the
latest developments of 2013, laser
sintering can now be applied to
platinum, and Progold is the first to
demonstrate this.
The principle is the same for all
of the companies. Lasers melt the
powder from different precious
metals in accordance with specified data from CAD software. A
slider is used to apply a thin layer
from the container onto the work
surface. A laser sits above the work
surface. When the layer is ready,
the work surface moves down. The
slider applies new powder and the
S
uppliers of testing instruments work constantly to
improve the functions of
these devices, as can be seen at
the BASELWORLD. For example,
Witschi Electronic has given its
Chronoscope S1 an upgrade. The
measurement instrument is used
to check mechanical watches for
repair services and quality control in the industrial sector.
The Chronoscope S1 can now be
used with a touchscreen, including colour display. By moving the
finger right or left on the touchscreen the operator can access
the diagrams to match the measurement positions.
In addition to this function, it
is also possible to link a tablet PC
to the Chronoscope instead of the
touchscreen.
4.U, E30
“We are nearly
there with platinum. There has
been substantial
customer interest.”
laser melts this to create an additional layer. The work uses powder,
like sintering. However, the material is melted and not pressed. The
process will undoubtedly not
replace casting, but it does offer
designers plenty of options that
casting cannot achieve. The possibilities of parametric design offered
by modern CAD solutions can be
utilised.
The versions offered by all of
the suppliers can be used for gold
of different qualities and in different alloys. “Platinum was a great
challenge,” says Alessandro Loggi
from Progold. The reason: the boiling point of platinum is about 1800
degrees Celsius and more than
2000 degrees are required to atomise it. The powder also needs to be
of a high quality and have a consistent particle size. “We are nearly
there with platinum,” reports Juan
Franco
from
Eichenberger
Futuretech, a service provider
which collaborates with Concept
Laser. There has been substantial
customer interest, he reports.
The processing of platinum is
the holy grail which needs to be
achieved, according to David Fletcher who is presenting solutions from
Cookson. His company can process
gold and titanium but not yet platinum. But it is important not to leave
customers by themselves with new
technology. His company therefore
offers advice along with its equip-
Chronograph S1 with touchscreen.
FAST TOOL
CHANGES
Filigree but durable woven metal fabric
made by Cookson using laser melting.
NEW HAND FITTING
MACHINE BY ROXER
by Markus Strehlitz
O
Alessandro Loggi of Progold.
ment. Items of jewellery produced
through laser melting can be
designed differently. It is possible to
reduce their weight and therefore
the cost without any detrimental
effect on the design. Users can
upload a design and receive suggestions on how best to achieve it.
Stefan Richardt from Concept
Laser presented the first device in
2011. This year, Concept Laser is
exhibiting an option for titanium
and a chance to improve the thick-
Stefan Richardt of Concept Laser.
ness of other materials. Close to 100
percent density has been achieved,
according to Richardt.
Along with its application to other materials, another challenge is to
avoid any of the material being lost
during the process because these
are expensive precious metals. “We
have developed a self-cleaning automated system which can perfectly
clean the working area of the residue of powder used during production, thus avoiding any contact
between the operator and the powder and making it possible for a new
process to start within 5 minutes,”
says Paola Signoretto from Progold.
Cookson works with completely
sealed cylinders. This prevents any
material being lost or taken. There
has been enormous interest in the
process, according to Franco: “We
had a huge amount to do in the
weeks before BASELWORLD”. Lots
of companies wanted prototypes for
the trade show.
n its stand Roxer is presenting the new semi-automated
hand fitting machine from
Seiler. According to the manufacturer, the MAAI CN8 device has
been developed specifically to make
more efficient use of work time.
“The machine can be loaded while
it is working,” says Dominique Garret, Technical Director at Roxer,
describing the benefits of the new
product. A further key feature of the
MAAI CN8: “The complete tooling
changeover can be done in less than
a minute,” says Garret.
The machine is able to drive in up
to eight hands. In addition, the device
works extremely precisely, as Cyril
Morales reports – with an accuracy of
0.001 mm. Morales is responsible for
marketing at Roxer. Beyond this, the
manufacturer has also focused on
user-friendliness and safety: touchscreen and an intuitive interface aim
to make operation as simple as possible. And the machine is equipped
with a double start and an electronic
safety barrier.
4.U, E41
72 INNOVATIONS
ATTRACTIVE, HEALTHY
WORKPLACES
ERGONOMICS, CUSTOMISING AND DESIGN CHARACTERISE
THE DEVELOPMENT OF WORKBENCHES
by Markus Strehlitz
A
t the BASELWORLD both
watchmakers and jewellers
can find a whole spectrum of
tools and aids to make their daily
tasks easier to accomplish. This also
includes the matching workplaces.
Particularly important here are the
ergonomic requirements that workbenches must fulfil. Work should be
able to be carried out in a posture
that is as beneficial to health as possible. Manufacturers therefore place
great emphasis on this aspect when
developing their products.
RAPID PROTOTYPING FOR
SMALLER WORKSHOPS
MANUFACTURERS ARE EXTENDING THEIR PRODUCT RANGES
by Pia Grund-Ludwig
mand Frères. Suva is the largest
accident insurer in Switzerland.
According to Allemand, the workbench can also be fundamentally
adapted to individual requirements. “Nothing is fixed,” says
Allemand. “Watchmakers can
compile their personal workbench
from different components.” In
addition, Finework 6500 is highly
compact. “Other workplaces are
typically larger,” says Allemand.
Ergonomics and individual settings are also characteristics of the
DWS has developed
ceramic material for
rapid prototyping.
The Finework 6500 is a new development
by Allemand Frères.
Garbarino presents a workbench for
jewellers.
For example, Allemand Frères
(4.U, E35) draws attention to the
ergonomic bench top of its Finework
6500
product.
The
watchmaker´s table is one of the
new developments that the company is presenting at this year’s
BASELWORLD. To adjust the workbench to suit the respective user the
height can be altered electronically.
Different positions can be saved in a
memory base. “With the Finework
6500 we satisfy all Suva requirements regarding workplaces,”
says Céline Allemand, responsible
for Marketing and Sales at Alle-
new watchmaker’s table from Bergeon (4.U, E31). However, the
stand-out attribute is its form, says
Gianni Pavone, Marketing and
Sales Manager at Bergeon. The
product name Dune provides the
clue here: the workbench has an
undulating form. This enables the
cables of the tools employed to be
concealed in the table. “We developed this form ourselves,” says
Pavone, “no other manufacturers
have it yet.” The arm rests can also
be flexibly adjusted, thanks to a
special technique. Bergeon owns
the corresponding patent for this.
The company combines the materials wood, aluminium and stainless steel in the Dune watchmaker’s bench. “We can supply every
type of wood and any colour,” says
Pavone.
But it is not just watchmakers
that can find the right benches for
their activities at the BASELWORLD. Garbarino (4.U, E44) has
on display a workbench for jewellers at its stand. Top Inox also
offers its users an ergonomic workplace – packaged in Italian design,
according to Fabio Bellero, Sales
Manager at Garbarino. Jewellers
can not only work at the table, but
also present goods to their customers on the steel surface. The Top
Inox costs 2,000 euros per workplace.
M
anufacturing models in small quantities using printers,
lasers or LEDs is
becoming
ever
more affordable for smaller studios
and jewellers. The key players in
this sector have extended their
product ranges and are now presenting their latest models at
BASELWORLD. Jewellers want to
work faster and reduce their
dependence on service providers
when it comes to devising models
and casting work. Manufacturers
are responding to this with rapid
prototyping solutions.
DWS (4.U, D20) is presenting an
entry-level model. The building
platform is 50 by 37 mm in size.
“The new device appeals to users
who may want to produce one-of-akind items,” says General Manager
Maurizio
Costabeber.
Larger
machines have also been added to
the product range. Digital Stone is
another innovation from DWS. It is
a kind of ceramic material. The
advantage: “It can be produced in
many different colours to enable
companies to react very quickly to
new colour trends,” says Costabeber. The aim is not to imitate existing materials but rather to open up
new possibilities to the company.
Christian Frowein from Envisiontec (4.U, E45) has also reacted
to the customer demand for smaller
devices. The German company is
presenting Micro, a small rapid prototyping device with a building platform of 30 by 40 mm. “More and
more customers want to work with
the technology themselves,” says
Frowein of this trend.
Envisiontec has minimised its rapid
prototyping device.
Andreas Schultheiss, Rapidshape:
“LEDs need infrequent calibrating”.
Rapidshape (4.U, B13), too, has
extended its range of rapid prototyping equipment and supplemented its assortment with some new
items. In addition to the small building platform, the company is also
offering a somewhat larger version
of 76 by 43 mm. Rapidshape uses
LEDs instead of the standard light
sources. “This has the advantage of
a long product lifespan, and LEDs
need calibrating much less often,”
says Andreas Schultheiss, Managing Director of Rapidshape. “I’m
sure the small printers will trigger a
real trend,” Schultheiss adds.
Solidscape (4.U, C13) uses printer technology to compile 3D models.
This is also now available in a smaller and significantly more cost-effective version. Designed for the needs
of custom retail jewellers, the fully
automated 3ZStudio printer brings
the jeweller’s bench to the retail table
top. It was developed for small companies which want to produce up to
15 designs per week. The operation
has been simplified, according to
Vice President Marketing Bill Dahl.
The device is also network-compatible, which is important for the
remote monitoring of processes.
John Wigand (left), Solidscape, shows 3ZStudio to potential customers.
HALL 1.2 BOOTH B41
design ciotolaepartners.it
28 april 2013
from 18.00
baselworld
hall 1.2
booth 01
alfex
live
experience
event
GEMSTONES 75
PAUL WILD – THE LUCKY DISCOVERY
YOU NEVER KNOW WHEN MOTHER NATURE IS GOING TO REVEAL SOMETHING AS ABSOLUTELY ASTOUNDING AS THIS
by Gary Roskin
M
arkus Paul Wild,
Managing Director
for
Paul
Wild,
gem cutters from
Kirschweiler, Germany says: ”The Chinese and other
Asian markets are still in the red
wave, after a long history with red
tourmaline, they are now starting to
appreciate red spinel as an upmarket gem material.”
Known for their exceptional coloured gemstones including genuine
Brazilian Paraiba tourmalines, we
had to ask about the display of red
spinels.
THE TANZANIAN RED
Wild tells us about his Tanzanian
red spinels. “It is a pure pure hot
red,” says Wild, “with no brown or
any other shades that may appear in
your Burmese or other red spinels.”
Wild describes some secondary
hues you might see as being “an old
pink” or “a little grey.”
FROM ONE FIND
What makes Wild’s large display of
red spinel absolutely incredible is
that they are all from one spinel, a
53 kilogram piece that was found
Markus Paul Wild holding an 89-carat red spinel, just one of the many fabulous spinels
on display, all cut from one 53-kilogram gem.
SPINEL – THE NEWEST
PRECIOUS GEM
WHILE MOST PEOPLE ONLY CONSIDER EMERALDS, RUBIES, SAPPHIRES, AND DIAMONDS,
SPINELS SEEM TO HAVE MADE IT TO THE “PRECIOUS GEMS” LIST
by Gary Roskin
A
lexander Leuenberger of
ALine, with Edigem upstairs
in Hall 3, has a wonderful
colourful assortment of spinels
from Burma, Vietnam, Pamir
(Tajikistan), Madagascar, and Sri
Lanka. Spinels aren’t just red. We
saw purples, lavenders, pinks,
blues, and variations and combinations of these colours – quite the
jewellery designer’s palette.
“Origin is not necessarily important,” says Leuenberger. “I like the
beauty of the colour. Actually, it’s the
lustre,” he says. “Burmese is more
crystalline – do you know what I
mean?” he asks. “Here, you put two
together, a Pamir and a Burmese –
we don’t really know why, but you
can see it. You can feel it.”
This spinel palette of colour features a
Burmese no heat 4.73-carat hot pink
cushion, an 8.48 carat Burmese no
heat pure red emerald cut, beside an
11.49-carat Vietnamese no heat purple
pear shape, with a 10.45-carat Vietnamese no heat lavender cushion, all from
ALine / Edigem.
HARDNESS AND LUSTRE
know the origin. They will choose the
better lustre – the Burmese.”
I’ve always associated lustre with a
gem’s hardness – its ability to take a
nice polish. But shouldn’t one spinel
have the same lustre as another? I do
see the difference Leuenberger is trying to describe. “So a Burmese pink
has more value, even if the colour is
the same, because of the lustre. Customers see it – even if they don’t
“My love for spinel began in 2000
when we were mining sapphires in
Madagascar,” he says. “We were
getting spinel in the same deposit.
We were actually setting them aside
because at that time there really
wasn’t a market for the material.”
HE FELT THE POWER
And then in 2003, they became
popular. “We really began to understand the potential for spinel when we
went to Burma and saw huge parcels
of spinels in all colours. I felt the
power, and the love, and from that
point on, I built a collection of spinels.”
“Of course, when the big brands
like Cartier began using spinels,
well, that really helped everybody.
People realized that spinels came in
all different colours.” And from that
point, Leuenberger says this is
when spinel made it to the “precious gemstones list.”
HERE, TAKE A LOOK AT THIS
Leuenberger began pulling different
colours of spinels from the trays,
mixing and matching colours and
everything seemed to go with everything else.
Leuenberger then pulled out a
multi-colour suite consisting of Burmese and Vietnamese spinels, 64
carats total weight, 22 stones, in
reds, pinks, lavenders, purples,
blues, and salmon coloured cushion
cuts. “You can mix and match – see,
they go great – no, they go fantastic
together.” Ah, magnificent! 3.1, A27
quite by accident. “It was from just a
very unique pocket,” says Wild.
“Actually, the mine was a very old
well-known source from the 1970s.
So when they came up with the
material, it was a complete surprise.”
Wild describes how they had
decided to start clearing the old
claim just to explore possibilities.
They really weren’t expecting to
find gems at this point. “And then
we got this phone call. It was totally
unexpected.” This was a deposit that
had been in a deep sleep. And they
were absolutely unaware that they
were in a position to find anything,
let alone this.
Wild talked about cutting
stones from the 53-kilo gem ranging in sizes “all the way up to 100
carats.” There are dozens of red
gems from this pocket on display
as well as in trays, in several different shapes, including matched
pairs. In fact there is an 89 carat
cushion in the corner window of
the stand in Hall 3. It’s a stunning
red. You should really take time to
be amazed at what Mother Nature
grew and the vast array of gems
what Wild was able to create from
the discovery.
3.0, D05
LONDON PEARL’S
VERY LARGE AND
VERY LUSTROUS
Superb 20-plus mm round lustrous
cultured pearls from London Pearl
(Hong Kong) Ltd.
2.2, H31
76 GEMSTONES
Jürgen Schütz of Emil Weis offers a variety of Australian and Mexican opals.
Chris Price of Chris Price Opals specializes in black opal from Lightning Ridge, Australia.
COLOUR PLAY
OPAL HOUSES IN HALL 3 ENGAGE BUYERS WITH WORLD’S FINEST GEMS FROM AUSTRALIA, MEXICO AND ETHIOPIA
by Deborah Yonick
B
ursting with life and
vitality, the dazzling,
hypnotic play of colour
that is opal inspires its
nickname, Queen of All
Gems, as it truly captures a rainbow
of hues in one stone. Naturalist
Pliny the Elder, during the first century A.D., described opal as containing the glories of the most precious
gems — the gentle fire of ruby, the
rich purple of amethyst, the deep
blue of sapphire, and the sea-green
of emerald, all shining together in
an indescribable union.
Perhaps some of the best examples of opal in the world can be
found among a select group of dealers in Hall 3, including Chris Price
Opals with Piat (3.1, D01), showing
Australian opal from Lightning
Ridge; Emil Weis (3.1, D43) with
Australian and Mexican opals; and
Opalinda with Abouchar SA (3.0,
A05), offering Ethiopian goods.
variety of shapes from the weird and
wonderful to fancy cuts.
Price describes himself as fortunate to be able to have significant
volume of material that he has
amassed over the years. “We’ve
been around for a long time and get
to see perhaps what others don’t.”
Which is an asset for a gem that has
limited production, especially from
Australia, where mining is challenged by government restrictions
and conducted on a small scale by
family operations. “The cost to
retrieve the material is physically
and financially high, and there is no
scientific fingerprinting like with
gold, coal and other materials, so it
is not something a big corporation
would want to endeavour in.”
Emil Weis, with a century’s old
history in the opal business, also
boasts great depth of inventory. Jürgen Schütz, president of the company based in Idar-Oberstein, Germany, sells Australian opals from
black to boulder. And, he has an
impressive stock of Mexican fire
opal — the classic red and orange
type for faceting and clear crystal
fire opal with mesmerizing play of
colour.
Because of his company’s longevity and reputation in the opal
business, Schütz is able to provide a
good supply of fire opal, even in the
face of production challenges.
“We’ve been buying fire opal rough
since the 1960s when it first hit the
market,” he describes, noting that
his company controls about 75 percent of production, which unfortunately has been on the decline over
the years. He reports high demand
for faceted orange fire opal goods,
but supply cannot meet manufacturers’ requests for quantity of certain sizes and shapes. He says freeform shapes in the clear play of
colour goods have been popular
with designers looking for organic,
natural, and unusual pieces.
OPAL NEWBY
The new kid on the block is Ethiopian opal that Francesco Mazzero of
Opalinda, La Fayette, Paris, stocks
in depth. He calls it a boon for the
opal market, as production is stable
with great potential for the future.
IN THE BLACK
Showing Australian opal Chris Price,
based in Sydney, Australia, has an
extensive stock of true black opal
from Lightning Ridge that reveals
dramatic play of colour. “Each stone
has a mystery that evokes constant
curiosity,” he describes. “You will
never die from lack of interest, the
stones keep giving. Full of character,
opal is a personal stone that offers
great bang for the buck!” He notes
that black opal is not a stone for
manufacturers who want matching
pieces for big lines, as no two gems
are alike. One-of-a-kind, he offers a
Francesco Mazzero of Opalinda holds an example of the opals produced in Wegel Tena,
Wollo Province of Ethiopia.
Example of organic freeform shapes in
clear crystal fire opal from Emil Weis.
Mining in the Wegel Tena, Wollo
Province, producing mostly white,
translucent opal which boasts vivid
play-of-colour, is expected to reach
25 tons of rough this year, up from
15 tons in 2012.
Opal from Ethiopia has had to
overcome some initial negative
press after it first hit the market in
1993 from deposits near Mezezo,
Shewa Province. At the time, many
inexperienced people jumped on
the bandwagon bringing material
that displayed a high degree of
hydrophane (water absorption) that
buyers feared would craze. But
Mazzero says the stability of the
opal is not affected by its porosity.
Misinformation caused mining in
Mezezo to halt, for now, and challenged people’s perceptions of the
material coming out of Wegel.
But Mazzero says that perceptions have been changing for the
better, as the goods have about a
decade of stability on their side.
While hydrophane is a concern,
those who deal with trusted sources
that guarantee their opals, as he
does, are in good hands.
“Jewellers on the Vendôme like
Dior, Van Cleef and Arpels, Cartier
and Chanel have been using Ethiopian opal in their designs for years
without issue,” says Mazzero. “Customers love the material. Each gem
is unique, the white background of
the opal from Wegel is ideal for collections.” He expects Ethiopian opal
will be the most sold opal on the
market, in terms of quantity, the
years to come.
HALL 1.2 STAND A53
COVER EXPRESSIONS
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Co166
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GEMSTONES 81
JADE – MORE THAN GREEN
AT BASELWORLD YOU CAN EMBRACE THE MAGIC OF A VERY SPECIAL MATE
by Christoph Hoffmann
O
ne thing, that makes
jade that special, is its
cultural meaning: it
has been accorded particular
significance
since 8,000 BC, primarily in China
but also among the Maori, Aztecs
and Maya people. It was once seen as
the most valuable of all goods. The
material has retained its value to the
present day and jade is still seen as a
lucky charm, especially in Asia.
But not all jade is the same: for a
long time, jade-like stones such as
nephrite were known as “jade”. But
only genuine, high quality jadeite
has the hard properties, striking colours and shimmering shine – the
properties which have always made
jade such a highly sought-after stone.
Today, top quality is hard to find. The
best jadeite is found in Birma.
The stone initially impresses
with its unique and astonishingly
diverse appearance: jadeite is generally green but there are also
white, yellow, brown, violet, pink
and black versions of the stone,
often with a slight hint of green.
Immense pressure and the effects of
various chemicals in the rock are
responsible for the diverse range of
colours and the typical pattern.
Whether flowing or with delicate
accents, like solidified clouds of
smoke, the colour tones blend into
one another and create a fascinating internal world within this predominantly opaque material. Other,
more rare specimen, show a very
pure, deep and intense colour.
Necklace by
Garaude.
But it is not just the appearance
of jadeite, which makes it so attractive; the feel is appealing too. The
so-called orange skin structure
means that the stone is particularly
hard and pressure-resistant – and
particularly challenging to process.
Jadeite is difficult to polish, and
because of that it is generally waxed
after cutting, giving the gem a
smooth polish-like finish. Most
companies have some of their pieces cut in China or Hong Kong – and
that is not because of the money,
but because of the much higher
quality and the longer experience in
working with the material. Of
course this long tradition shows
itself in a lot of the designs of the
jadeite found at BASELWORLD:
Especially at the stand of Uhl Schmuck und Edelsteine (3.1, A17), a
Swiss company specialized on jadeite, you will see a lot of typical Asian
motives like dragons or ornamental
floral shapes. But the company also
has their own ideas realized.
“My father fell in love with the
stone on his various trips to Asia. Its
grace, its attributes, its history fascinated him”, says Bigi Uhl, CEO of
the company. “And when I first saw
it, I fell for it, too.” And it is obvious,
that she never lost her passion for
that material. Her eyes shine brightly
and she laughes cheerfully, when
she shows the pieces of jewellery or
some decoration objects to her visitors. “My favorite piece might be this
dragon”, she says and takes out a
gorgeous pendant. “It perfectly dis-
Bigi Uhl with one of
her favorite pieces of jadeite.
Ring by
Manuel Bouvier.
plays the characteristics of jadeite
that you only find in the best pieces
of jadeite.” The 177 carat pendant
shows a skilfully carved, very
detailed dragon. The light shines
slightly through the material, giving
the whole pendant a stunning vivid
flair.
Another company dealing with
jadeite is Garaude (3.1, A09) from
Paris. At their stand, you will find
fine jewellery made out of jadeite in
thrilling colours. One of the particular highlights you will see there is a
necklace made out of 28 beads of
black jadeite from Birma , totallying
812.40 carats, highlighted by some
diamond covered platinum beads.
And Manuel Bouvier (3.0, A17)
displays, among other precious jewellery, an awesome ring, that combines a lavender-coloured jadeite
with white gold, which creates a
feminine look.
RARE BEAUTIES
EXHAUSTED DEPOSITS DRIVE PRICES FOR
COLOURED GEMSTONES UPWARDS
Interview by Axel Henselder
T
he market for coloured gemstones works differently to
that of diamonds or other
raw jewellery materials. Nicole
Ripp of the Idar-Oberstein, Germany, family-run company Groh +
Ripp clarifies differences and commonalities in an interview with
BWDN.
BWDN: Prices for jewellery materials such as gold and diamonds
have fallen recently. Are you
observing a similar development
in coloured gemstones?
Nicole Ripp: Definitely not. The
prices of uncut stones are still rising, as many deposits are already
exhausted or yields are falling.
There is less and less material that
can be cut. As a result, I expect
prices to rise further.
Sandra and Nicole Ripp presenting a
broad variety of coloured stones.
Are there differences in
the price development
of uncut and cut
material, as can be
seen
with
diamonds?
We offer primarily
high-quality,
cut
gemstones such as
fine Paraiba tourmalines. Raw material is
nearly unobtainable for
this on the market. Lack
of supply means that further
price increases are also to be
expected for cut material.
Is the Far East still hoovering up a
large portion of the coloured
gemstones that are available?
Demand from the Far East has
eased a little recently. At the end of
BASELWORLD 2013 I will be able
to tell you which regions demand is
switching to.
A wonderful Paraiba
Tourmaline drop.
How important is
confidence, the
5th C for diamonds,
with
regard to coloured
gemstones?
In the field of coloured gemstones it
is
particularly
important that you
trust the dealer that
you have been working
with for many years. We
buy directly from the mine owners, who we have known personally
for generations in some cases. Many
transactions are still concluded by
handshake. In addition, the market
also displays information asymmetries. A coloured gemstone cannot be assessed using the 4 Cs like a
diamond. Each gemstone is unique.
Trust is therefore highly important
to us.
3.0 / B09
82 WORLD OF BASEL
FORMER
MISS ZURICH AT
BASELWORLD
GERHARD SCHREINER, CEO OF SCHREINER FINE JEWELLERY,
WELCOMED NATHALIE RAGUTH. THE MODEL AND FORMER
MISS ZURICH WAS WEARING A NECKLACE, EARRINGS AND
A RING FROM THE NEW COPACABANA COLLECTION
HIGHLIGHTS OF FRIDAY
NIGHT AT THE VILLAGE
DESPITE THE BAD WEATHER, EVERYBODY WAS
ENJOYING THE GOOD ATMOSPHERE
Philipp and David Degen,
soccer players at FC Basel.
“LIKE DISNEYLAND FOR
WATCH LOVERS”
“IT KEEPS
ME SAFE”
JEANRICHARD’S NEW AMABASSADOR PRAISES ITS PASSION
ENRIC SALAS EXPEDITIONS
C
hesley “Sully” Sullenberger,
an easy-going and thoughtful man, is a retired pilot
and air safety expert. He is also a
genuine hero. In January 2009, in
208 seconds, he piloted his disabled passenger plane to an amazing landing on the Hudson River in
New York City, saving all 155 people on board. Sullenberger is the
new spokesman for Jeanrichard
Swiss luxury watches and the focus
of its new image campaign. He
spoke to BWDN.
BWDN: Captain Sullenberger,
why did you agree to be Jean
richard’s
spokesman?
What
attracted you to it?
Sully Sullenberger: Passion. Everyone at Jeanrichard is so passionate
about what they do, and about the
quality of the product they make. I
Interview by Magdalena Malawska
B
admire such dedication to one’s
calling, so it was a good fit for me.
lancpain has turned its focus
to the underwater world,
supporting, amongst other
projects, the Pristine Seas Expeditions environmental project of
National Geographic. Expedition
leader Enric Sala spoke about the
project and the significance of the
iconic divers watch Fifty Fathoms,
which celebrates its 60th anniversary this year.
Jeanrichard is working with you
on a charity effort called “208
Seconds.” What is that?
We’ll be working together on designs
for one or two new watches, with
some proceeds from the watches
going to a charity of my choice. We
haven’t decided which one.
You’ll be involved in the designs?
Yes. There are no details yet, so
we’ll be starting with a clean
sheet. Overall, though, it will
involve the look and feel of the
watch, and be a personal device,
useful to the wearer.
Chesley “Sully” Sullenberger, Jeanrichard’s
new brand ambassador.
This is your first time at BASEL
WORLD. What is your impres
sion of it?
Beautiful, large and a lot of fun to
visit! It’s like a Disneyland for
watch lovers.
The watch is my working tool and
my security. Although I do have a
diving computer, I need my Fifty
Fathoms in case the battery is dead
– and the watch never fails. Also it
keeps me safe since it indicates
how long I have already been
under water.
Speaking of diving – you are a big
water enthusiast, right?
Yes, I grew up at the Mediterranean
coast of Spain and I always wanted
to be a diver in one of Jacques Cousteaus boats. I started snorkeling
when I was 6. This makes me even
more proud to continue the spirit of
pioneers that have been wearing
this watch for 60 years now.
BWDN: What do you have in
common with Blancpain?
Enric Sala: Both of us want to raise
awareness of the current situation
of the ocean. I want to explore and
protect the last pristine places in the
ocean and Blancpain is our perfect
partner and supporter.
How does your Fifty Fathoms
contribute to what you are doing?
Enric Sala, Marine Ecologist.
Timepieces developed for the game of golf,
worn by pros and licensed by St Andrews
Links. Model Queen of Golf especially
for Ladies - smaller, more delicate, with
80 diamonds and Art Deco pattern - with
patented mechanical counter for golf,
automatic movement and shock absorber.
Available from specialist retailers.
www.jaermann-stuebi.com
Hall 1.1 Booth A71.
© 2012 ST ANDREWS LINKS LIMITED
84 WORLD OF BASEL
NEW BOOKS
DRINKS,
MUSIC
AND FUN
SELLING LUXURY
SEVERAL EXHIBITORS HOSTED
COCKTAIL RECEPTIONS AT
BASELWORLD
TAG Heuer
What does it take to sell high-end
luxury creations to the richest clients
in the world? In „Selling Luxury“,
Robin Lent and Genevieve Tour, with
thirty years of combined experience,
share their savoir-faire. You’ll also
pick up tips from multi-million dollar
luxury sales professionals who will
help you understand the complexities of the universe of luxury. „Selling
Luxury“ will show you how a salesperson can acquire Sales Ambassador status by offering the impeccable service associated with the
world’s most prestigious brands.
Robin Lent and Geneviève Tour,
Selling Luxury, John Wiley & Sons,
Paperback, 156 pages, 150 x 205
mm, English, ISBN 978-0-47045799-3, CHF 32.50
Guess
Tonino Lamborghini
Every week, BBC World News reaches more business
decision makers than all other international print titles*.
Advertise with us to target affluent individuals beyond
the reach of the rest of the news media.
It’s time to be seen where it matters.
Contact Laeticia de Belloy on +33 1 44 95 84 06
or [email protected]
advertising.bbcworldwide.com
*EMS 2012, target group is all respondents (48,974,000 / 27,887) intl print
publications are: Businessweek, Newsweek, Economist, NY Times or Time
Books are available at the bookshop
at BASELWORLD Palace
and on www.watchprint.com
86 SERVICE
HALL FLOOR PLANS 2013
IMPRINT
BASELWORLD Daily News
A publication by Untitled Verlag und
Agentur GmbH & Co. KG
Managing Director:
Dr. Christian Jürgens
2
3
PALACE
Editorial Management:
Mathias Menzel, Caroline Schiedt
tel. +41 61 699 80 57
[email protected]
Editors:
Watches: William George Shuster (wgs),
Iris Wimmer-Olbort (iwi), Sabine Zwettler
(sz)
Jewellery: Dr. Roberto Chilleri (rc),
Nina Hald (nh), Axel Henselder (ahe),
Christel Trimborn (cete)
Gemstones: Christoph Hoffmann (ch),
Gary Roskin (gr), Deborah Yonick (dy)
Markets: Axel Henselder (ahe)
1
GLOBAL BRANDS
HALL 1.0
HALL 1.1
HALL 1.2
RELATED BRANCHES
HALL 3.0
HALL 3.1
HALL 4.U
INTERNATIONAL BRANDS
HALL 2.0
HALL 2.1
HALL 2.2
PALACE
NATIONAL PAVILIONS
HALL 4.0
HALL 4.1
Innovations: Pia Grund-Ludwig (pgl),
Markus Strehlitz (ms)
World of Basel: Magdalena Malawska (mm)
Contributors:
Pooja Agarwal (pa), Gloria Belloni (gb),
Carol Besler (cb), Kyra Brenzinger (kb),
David Brough (db), Elizabeth Doerr (ed),
Annalisa Fontana (af), Roberta Naas (rn)
4
Art Direction:
Janina Demiana Roll, Kerstin Vorwalter
UPCOMING DATES
FOR BASELWORLD
March 27 – April 3, 2014
March 19 – March 26, 2015
Layout:
Sandra Fink, Martin Tubbesing,
Heike Wahnbaeck, Marlene Wolf
Picture editors:
Tobias Indermühle, Andre Weinberg
Photos:
Hannes Magerstaedt, David
Matthiessen, Volker Renner,
Daniel Stauch, Franz Unterbirker
GENERAL INFORMATION
OPENING HOURS
Daily: 9 am – 6 pm
Last day (Thursday, May 2): 9 am – 4 pm
PRICES OF ADMISSION
Day ticket
Eight-day ticket
CHF 60.–
CHF 150.–
CATALOGUE BASELWORLD 2013
The World Watch and Jewellery Show
CHF 40.–
PRESS CENTRE
On the Exhibition Square
MEDIA CENTRE
Providing all the international daily newspapers and economic journals and also
selected fashion and lifestyle magazines,
as well as the complete spectrum of publications revolving around the watch and
jewellery industry.
BASELWORLD SHOP
Catalogue Centre, Book Shop,
SBB Swiss Federal Railways, Läckerli-Huus
RAIL
SBB Swiss Federal Railways
BASELWORLD Shop, on the Exhibition
Square
Swiss railway SBB, tel. +41 900 300 300
French railway SNCF, tel. +33 892 35 35 35
German railway DB, tel. +49 1805 99 66 33
AIR TRAVEL SERVICE
Swiss International Air Lines
Reservation Swiss International Air Lines,
tel. +41 848 700 700
Information EuroAirport Basel-MulhouseFreiburg: tel. +41 61 325 31 11
Zurich Airport: tel. +41 900 30 03 13
AIRPORT
EuroAirport Basel-Mulhouse-Freiburg
(10 km from Basel city centre) and Zurich
Airport (90 km from Basel city centre).
A shuttle bus service is available which
takes you directly to the Basel Exhibition
Centre from EuroAirport Basel-MulhouseFreiburg (daily from 8.15 am to 7.15 pm)
as well as from Zurich Airport (daily from
7.30 am to 7 pm).
LOST PROPERTY
Hall 2.0
tel. +41 58 206 26 12, fax +41 58 206 20 70
TRAM
Tram stop “Messeplatz”
Trams no. 2 and 1 to SBB and SNCF
railway stations (8 min.)
Trams no. 2 and 6 to German railway
station “Badischer Bahnhof” (2 min.)
BASEL TOURISM
Tourist Information/Hotel reservation in
the Stadtcasino at
Barfüsserplatz, CH-4010 Basel
tel. +41 61 268 68 68
fax +41 61 268 68 70
[email protected]
www.basel.com
EXHIBITION CUSTOMS OFFICE
Hall 2, Foyer
tel. +41 58 206 21 22
BANK – CHANGE – SAFE
Basler Kantonalbank: Congress Center
branch
FREE SHOW GUIDE
FOR SMART PHONES
Get the free BASELWORLD App for your iPhone, iPad,
BlackBerry and other smart phones! It contains an
interactive 3D map of the show, visitor information,
detailed information on the exhibitors as well as a
selection of articles from the current Daily News issue.
Free download:
baselworld.com/app
GET IN TOUCH WITH BASELWORLD
Join us on Facebook or follow our latest news on Twitter
or Weibo – and interact with us and other visitors!
facebook.com/baselworld
twitter.com/baselworld
weibo.com/baselworld
BASELWORLD VILLAGE: HIGHLIGHT THE NIGHT
Great atmosphere, delicious food, cocktails and live music!
WHEN
Thursday, April 25, 2013 to
Wednesday, May 1, 2013
6 pm to 2 am
WHERE
Binningerstrasse 14
CH-4051 Basel
RESTAURANTS
Osteria Acqua – Italian culinary elixir
in a unique setting
www.acquabasilea.ch
Baracca Zermatt – enjoy Swiss food
in a chalet style atmosphere
www.baraccazermatt.ch
We will be pleased to accept your table reservations on tel. +41 61 564 66 66
Translation and Proofreading:
Ad Rem Sprachdienstleistungen,
Amy Brooke, Prisca DeGroat, Howard
Fine, Konstanze Plötz, Kenneth Ross
Advertising:
MCH Swiss Exhibition (Basel) Ltd.
BASELWORLD
CH-4005 Basel / Switzerland
tel. +41 58 206 22 22
[email protected]
Printing:
Vogt-Schild Druck AG
CH-4552 Derendingen
www.vs-druck.ch
Publisher’s address:
Untitled Verlag und Agentur
GmbH & Co. KG
Medienpark Kampnagel
Jarrestr. 2
D-22303 Hamburg, Germany
tel. +49 40 189 881-0
fax +49 40 189 881-111
[email protected]
BASELWORLD Daily News is published by
Untitled Verlag und Agentur GmbH & Co.
KG. Reprints of articles are obtainable on
application to the publisher.
All rights reserved.
BASELWORLD Daily News may
not be reproduced in any manner of
form without written permission.
EDITORIAL OFFICE
News to share? Contact us!
tel. +41 61 699 80 57
[email protected]
T H R E E
PATRAVI TRAVELTEC FOURX
Selected red gold, precious titanium,
extra-hard high-tech ceramic and
tough natural rubber give time a new
material form. Globetrotters will
find that the Patravi TravelTec FourX
brings them the perfect combination
of luxury and high-tech. It displays
three time zones at once and jumps
across time zones at the touch
of a button. With Carl F. Bucherer’s
engineering on a miniature scale,
your journey through time can begin.
BOUND T O T R A DI T ION – DRIV EN BY INNOVAT ION
BASELWORLD 2013
HALL 1.0 – STAND C33
T I M E
Z O N E S
A T
A
G L A N C E

plenty of room in a new home

Transcription

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