where river and land meet

Transcription

WHERE RIVER AND LAND MEET
CULTURE, HISTORY AND NATURE OF THE LOWER PIAVE AREA
Fondo
investenelle
nellezone
zonerurali
rurali
Fondoeuropeo
europeoagricolo
agricoloper
perlolosviluppo
svilupporurale:
rurale: l’Europa investe
Fondo europeo agricolo per lo sviluppo rurale: l’Europa investe nelle zone rurali
INCONTRI Tra fiume e TERRA
INCONTRI
Tra
fiume
e TERRA
Cultura,
storia
e natura
del Basso
Piave
Cultura, storia e natura del Basso Piave
PIA_R BASSO PIAVE - Percorsi storici di Terra e Acqua
PIA_R BASSO PIAVE - Percorsi storici di Terra e Acqua
Iniziativa ﬁnanziata dal Programma
di Sviluppo Rurale per il Veneto 2007 – 2013
Organismo responsabile dell’informazione:
Provincia ﬁdinanziata
Venezia,
Assessorato
Iniziativa
dal
Programmaal turismo
Autorità
di Gestione
designata
l’esecuzione:
Regione
di
Sviluppo
Rurale per
il Venetoper
2007
– 2013
Veneto, Direzione
Piani edell’informazione:
Programmi Settore Primario
Organismo
responsabile
Provincia di Venezia, Assessorato al turismo
Autorità di Gestione designata per l’esecuzione: Regione
Veneto, Direzione Piani e Programmi Settore Primario
Editorial coordination
Elena Pasqualini, APT della Provincia di Venezia
Editing
Larin - www.larin.it
Graphic project and layout
Larin - www.larin.it
Translation
Globe Group Srl - http://www.globegroupsrl.com
Printing
Mediaprint Srl di Roberto Rappo
For further information and download of the e-book, please visit www.turismovenezia.it
© All rights reserved
Index
The Lower Piave area . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Walking to discover history .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
The ancient Altinum and its museum . . . . . . . . . . . .
Church of San Michele Arcangelo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Church of San Magno Vescovo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Church of San Donato .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Sculpture in architecture park .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Archaeological area of San Mauro .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
The Archpriest Church of San Mauro . . . . . . . . . . . .
The “Ragazzi del ‘99” baptistery .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Hemingway itinerary .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Il Capitello dell’Osteria de a Orsola .. . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Stories of devotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Church of San Rocco . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
14
16
18
19
21
22
23
24
26
27
28
29
Reclaimed land .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
The last tax collector .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
River park - Noventa Floodplain Area . . . . . . . . . . . .
Palazzo della Bonifica . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Museum of Land Reclamation of San Donà .. . . . . .
The draining plant of Cittanova . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
The Intestadura Dam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Al Tajo harbour in Musile di Piave .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Musile di Piave’s cantilever bridge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
The pontoon bridge of Musile di Piave . . . . . . . . . . .
The Portegrandi Basin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
The Trepalade Basin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
The draining plant of Carmason . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
4
34
36
37
39
40
42
43
44
46
47
48
51
Rediscovering nature .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
Exploring nature .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Blossoming bank meadows .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
The course of the old Piave River .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
“La Piave Vecchia” environmental centre . . . . . . . .
The lagoon north of Venice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Fishing Farms .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Airone environmental centre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Bosco Belvedere - Meolo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Casa del Bosco .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Trepalade nature reserve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Regional Park of the Sile river .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
The wetlands of San Michele Vecchio . . . . . . . . . . . .
57
58
60
61
62
64
66
67
68
69
70
71
Houses of yesteryear .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73
Ca’ Cappello and Ca’ Malipiero .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Casa Vio and Villa Priuli - Del Maschio .. . . . . . . . . . .
Mysteries and suggestions in Ca’ Corner . . . . . . . . .
Villa Priuli and Villa De Marchi Nardari . . . . . . . . . . .
The history of Italy in Meolo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
World War I and the Losson villas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Villas in Fossalta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Villas in Noventa di Piave . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Villas in Quarto d’Altino .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
76
78
79
80
81
82
85
86
88
Gastronomic excellence . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91
Asparagus, beans, rice and walnuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Desserts .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
White pearl cornmeal and sandbank honey . . . . . .
Fish, lobsters and frogs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
92
93
94
95
5
The Lower Piave area
The guide to the Lower Piave comes from the wish to show
and highlight a very rich area in the Veneto region from a
historical, cultural and natural point of view and emphasises
the unbreakable and vital bond that the lands bordered by the
Piave river have always had with this important waterway.
Here are the four routes involving the towns of Meolo, Fossalta
di Piave, Musile di Piave, San Donà di Piave, Noventa di Piave
and Quarto d’Altino; original itineraries to understand how a
river can influence not only the geomorphology of an area, but
also the lives of entire communities, conditioning their choices
and actions.
This guide will help you learn about different aspects of the
relationship between people and the environment around them
by following itineraries designed around different themes,
which all have the Piave river in common.
From landscapes of drained land to natural environments, from
the sumptuous houses of Venetian nobility up to the history
and the typical products of a land that has given and taken
away a lot over the centuries. By following these paths you will
have the opportunity to appreciate a land that conceals very
precious gems.
7
E
PIP
AIVA
EV
Walking to discover history
Reclaimed land
Rediscovering nature
Houses of yesteryear
Gastronomic excellence
FOSSALTADI
DIPIAVE
PIAVE
FOSSALTA
MEOLO
MEOLO
SSII
LE
QUARTO
QUARTO D’ALTINO
D’ALTINO
SSILILEE
PORTEGRANDI
PORTEGRANDI
ALTINO
NOVENTA DI PIAVE
NOVENTA DI PIAVE
SAN
PIAVE
SAN DONÀ
DONÀ DI
DI PIAVE
MUSILE
MUSILE DI
DI PIAVE
PIAVE
PIAVE
VECCHIA
PIAVE VECCHIA
PPIIAAV
VEE
CAPOSILE
CAPOSILE
LLEE
SSII
LAGUNA
LAGUNA NORD
NORD
MARE
MARE ADRIATICO
ADRIATICO
Walking to discover history
Telling the story of the Lower Piave area means speaking of
a great river opening towards northern Europe, definitely
an easier route compared to the Balkan itineraries. It means
imagining a coveted communication route and, at the end
of that wide channel, a natural harbour, the lagoon; behind
it, the plain bounded by the Alps, which become less hostile
to the east. A rich history that is inextricably linked with its
network of rivers, from the settlements of the people living in
the area in ancient times (Paleoveneti), through the Roman era
and its splendour. The luxury of the trade of goods from the
East to Europe from the 14th century onwards, the history of
fascinating complexity of Romanesque art in the Veneto region,
the Venetian Republic, the Byzantine influences, the echoes of
classics and local languages.
It means telling the tragic period of the Great War, the giant
battlefield of north-east Italy, whose centre was precisely
Veneto: homes and monuments razed to the ground, thousands
of broken lives, scars of which still remain. The story of the
strength of the local people to rebuild the town, one brick at a
time, with the dignity and the humbleness of people from the
plains. A rich story the one of the Lower Piave and definitely
worth telling.
Our historic route is precisely designed with this goal: as you
progress, you will have the chance to discover the many facets
of this land full of history: built, conquered, liberated, bombed,
rebuilt and reborn.
11
AV
E
PI
FOSSALTA DI PIAVE
MEOLO
SI
QUARTO D’ALTINO
LE
S IL E
PORTEGRANDI
ALTINO
NOVENTA DI PIAVE
SAN DONÀ DI PIAVE
MUSILE DI PIAVE
PIA
VE
PIAVE VECCHIA
CAPOSILE
SI
LE
LAGUNA NORD
MARE ADRIATICO
The ancient Altinum and its museum
Our journey through history can only but start from Altino, in the
municipality of Quarto d’Altino, a small town built on the ruins of an
ancient town. Today a small hamlet, but already inhabited during the
Venetic era, it was an important commercial hub and a large town in
Roman times. A proof of the importance of “Altinum” are the road
links providing direct access to Germany and Trieste, respectively,
through the Via Claudia Augusta and the Via Annia. Let’s not forget
that the port, which allowed for navigation, especially towards the
East.
Domus, amphitheatres, harbour, arena, necropolis, mosaics, statues,
weapons: this all shows the active and majestic life of this town, then
destroyed in the seventh century AD following the invasion of the
Lombards, forcing populations to move to Torcello, where the foundations were laid for the birth of Venice. Important findings of the
various stages of the development of the town are now held at the
National Archaeological Museum of Altino, near the Church of San
Eliodoro in the eponymous square, waiting for the new headquarters,
due to open soon.
These are items dating back to a time between the Mesolithic and the
Late Ancient / Medieval era (from the second half of the ninth millen-
14
Notes
In 1987 the archaeological area of Altino was included in the UNESCO
site “Venice and its lagoon”. It is also located along the I4 itinerary of the
Veneto region, the Venice-Munich cycling route.
nium BC to the seventh century AD). Only parts of the ancient town
are still visible in the area north and east of the museum, while the
rest, submerged by land, can be reproduced with photos, artefacts,
reconstructions, eyes and mind.
Founded in 1960, the National Archaeological Museum of Altino is directly associated with the surrounding archaeological area, subject to
ongoing excavations since 1966. Inside there are the remains of funerary monuments and architectural elements from the town, as well as
mosaics of ancient Roman houses on the floors.
The glass cabinets show tomb burial objects of the Via Annia necropolis, with beautiful stained glass. At the entrance visitors can gather
information on the sites and on important and relevant aspects of the
lagoon’s environment thanks to the touch-screen display with three
levels of detail.
The hamlet is also full of opportunities, initiatives and services for visitors such as bike rental, a bookshop and a refreshments area, all in
the cloister. From the recently built pier you can also reach Venice by
water along the North Lagoon on traditional boats or canoes. Local
associations hold cultural events to enhance and explore this area full
of charm.
Information on the various services and activities
www.leviealtino.it
Information on guided tours for groups
[email protected]
15
Church of San Michele Arcangelo
The Via Claudia Augusta is the Roman road that dates back to the
first century AD and that connected the Roman Empire with the Germanic world, crossing the Alps and reaching the Danube in Bavaria. At
the start of the trail you can admire a centuries-old imposing poplar
standing alone, as if to mark the start of the trail; further ahead, you
will find yourself walking along this famous road. This section connects
Altino, which you are about to leave behind you, to Quarto d’Altino,
which you are about to reach to visit the Church of San Michele Arcangelo, amongst other things.
This is a religious building completed in 1905. A simple and harmonious red neoclassical façade.
Upon entering, you will not be struck by the structure of the church:
no excesses, a single main body of the church with a front high altar.
However, it has a peculiarity, i.e. a large organ dating back to the early
20th century. It is so big that it has more than 1180 pipes: it is worth
stopping for a service to hear its sweet and gentle sound, really evocative.
The church tower is 56 metres high. In late September, during the Festa di San Michele you can reach the top of the bell tower by climbing
an original open spiral staircase. At the top there a rotating statue of
St. Michael the Archangel.
Notes
Piazza San Michele - Quarto d’Altino
16
Church of San Magno Vescovo
Along part of the “Across rivers, canals and lagoon” bike trail offered
by Vivilabici, you can reach Portegrandi, where you can visit the church
of San Magno Vescovo.
This is a gorgeous cycling trail, both in terms of nature and also from a
historical and cultural point of view.
The church has a very simple and clean design: straight, precise lines,
a few motifs to embellish the white façade, which is extremely bright.
One of them is the wonderful mosaic that depicts San Magno Vescovo
holding the church of Santa Maria Formosa in Venice in his palm.
The inside of the church has a single central nave decorated with
beautiful frescoes both on the ceiling and along the left wall. On the
right wall there is another altar, made of stone and dating back to the
18th century, in full Venetian style and dedicated to Sant’Antonio.
According to tradition, San Magno Vescovo was born in Altino and
became a bishop in 630.
When the town was attacked by the Lombards, he led the population
down to the lagoon, where Eraclea was founded.
Interesting note: near the church dedicated to the holy bishop there
is a capital where people worship a wooden statue of the Black Madonna, of origin unknown and mysterious.
Notes
The church of San Magno Vescovo is in Via Trieste in Portegrandi hamlet,
and can be recognised by its white façade and brick red bell tower.
18
Church of San Donato
Now that you have visited the gems of Quarto d’Altino, you can head
towards the Church of San Donato in Musile di Piave by using the natural path of the Sile opening, which connects Portegrandi to Musile.
This route runs for about 8 km and separates the river from Venice’s
northern lagoon, offering unique views; the stretch between Caposile
and the dam of Intestadura di Musile is really worth visiting, offering
unique views over the Piave Vecchia area.
After walking or cycling along this road, stop to catch your breath: admire the Church of San Donato in Musile, a sacred building surrounded by an anecdote on the border between history and legend, and
that created a centuries-old tradition: the “Patto Solenne d’Amistà”,
remembered on August 7 every year on the day of San Donato.
This is the story associated with the Church of San Donato: in the Middle Ages, between the towns of San Donà and Musile there was a consecrated chapel in San Donato. Around 1250, following a major flood
that diverted the Piave river, the chapel passed from the left bank of
the river to the right one, in San Donato beyond the Piave river (now
Musile). According to legend, the two towns reached a deal: the inhabitants of Musile retained San Donato as their patron, in exchange
San Donà could bear this name by paying an annual tribute of “gallos
eviratos duos, vivi et ruspanti pingues et optimi”.
Notes
For those wishing to explore the route by bike, please note that there are works
in progress in the Portegrandi - Caposile bike trail and the route cannot
be accessed due to environmental reasons.
From Chiesanuova there is a beautiful stretch for canoes.
19
Sculpture in architecture park
After the historic Ponte della Vittoria bridge to reach San Donà di Piave
and taking the scenic route that connects the town’s river park to that
of Noventa di Piave, it is worth making a detour to visit an interesting
site. Two wings of white concrete six feet high, covered with “a million million very white flowers ”: this is the Porta dei Fiori leading to
the sculpture in architecture park of San Donà di Piave, designed by
none other than Alberto Campo Baeza, an internationally renowned
Spanish architect.
A truly original idea of Adalberto Mestre is the idea at the basis for the
sculpture in architecture park of San Donà: an outdoor museum open
to visitors all year round.
A little reflection on the name: why “sculpture in architecture”? The
creator says he wanted to make it clear that this is not a place that
hosts commemorative works, but rather works that interact closely
with architecture, that put people in contact with contemporary art.
The outdoor museum is a green space of eight thousand square metres on the outskirts of San Donà, where you can admire works by
internationally renowned architects and artists such as Aldo Rossi,
Bruno Munari, Sol Lewitt and many others. It hosts an increasing
number of works thanks to the commitment and work of the ARCH +
ART association.
Access from
- Via Vittorio Veneto
- Via Unità d’Italia
- Via Monte Popera
21
Archaeological area of San Mauro
After resuming the scenic route along the Piave leading to the Noventa River Park, we reach the archaeological area of San Mauro.
1917: The Great War swept away the Lower Piave area and destroyed
it. Battles, escapes, bombings during which many lives were broken
and many buildings devastated.
One of the buildings destroyed was the Chiesa Arcipretale dedicated
to San Mauro: hit by a bomb, it was razed to the ground.
In 1976 excavations were carried out in the area where the church
was and they unearthed an archaeological complex made of several
layers: namely, in a first layer there were the remains of a church dating back to the Middle Ages, in the underlying layer a settlement complex from the fourth century AD and another one dating back to the
first century B.C.
Therefore a journey through history and art, thanks to the excavations
of the 1970s and other excavations in 2000, which produced two fine
mosaics from the late fourth century. They were part of the old buildings, currently part of the Permanent Archaeological Exhibition in the
Council Chamber of the Town Hall of Noventa.
These mosaics date back to the same period and are attributable to
the same craftsmen who built the great mosaic of the Basilica Apostolorum di Concordia Sagittaria.
22
Archaeological site Via Lampol - Noventa di Piave
Permanent archaeological exhibition
Piazza G. Marconi, 1 - Noventa di Piave - www.museocema.com
For last news about the digs www.archeopd.beniculturali.it
Picture by gracious permission of the Ministry of Heritage and Cultural Activities and Tourism; unauthorized reprints
The Archpriest Church of San Mauro
During World War I the most tragic event in the history of Noventa
took place: in the autumn of 1917, after Caporetto, with the retreat
and the front moving towards river Piave, the country found itself in
the line of fire. The population was displaced, and in a year of battles
Noventa was reduced to rubble. The destruction was so devastating
that the governmental authority strongly recommended against rebuilding it, but thanks to the tenacity and stubbornness of the inhabitants everything was rebuilt in its original site. So, having the fate of
its own name, Noventa was built again. The Church of San Mauro was
rebuilt after 1917 and replaced the eponymous church: it was a good
idea to rebuild churches destroyed by war of similar size to the previous year, to maintain the same dignity and importance.
The sober Romanesque sacred building, illuminated by the light coming through the glass rose windows.
It is worth visiting this place of worship for the valuable art it contains:
namely two works, a painting of a Black Madonna dating back to the
15th century and a 12th-13th century processional cross, a true gem.
You can now continue along the route through the picturesque Ponte
di Barche bridge that connects Noventa to Fossalta di Piave.
Notes
Piazza Vittorio Emanuele - Noventa di Piave. Built in 1923.
This church tower is the second-highest (after the one of San Marco)
in the whole of Veneto.
23
The “Ragazzi del ‘99” baptistery
So here we are then in Fossalta di Piave, on the opposite bank of the
river, connected to Noventa via the typical pontoon bridge. There
are people who entered into legend. People everyone has heard of
at least once, in a book or through some story, maybe told by their
grandparents. The young men of ‘99 are certainly in this list. A whole
generation forced to take up arms at a very young age and often without any experience. A generation who, in the Lower Piave areas, gave
their hearts and lives and who remained in textbooks as an example
of unity and dedication to the cause of patriotic resistance: the town
of Fossalta di Piave chose to honour them through a baptistery built
in 1983, dedicated to the Young Men of ‘99 as a symbol of peace and
a reminder for future generations against all wars and acts of violence.
A baptistery that is still a must for tourists, historians and even literature enthusiasts.
The first symbolic stone of this monument was the stele dedicated
to Ernest Hemingway in 1979. He had a leading role in the battles in
this area, and was severely injured in July 1918. A volunteer in the
American Red Cross to support soldiers in the Italian army, he saw the
violence of the war himself: it was on this occasion that the author
laid the foundation for his famous novel “A Farewell to Arms”.
Notes
The Baptistery and the Stele are on the embankment of the river Piave.
24
Hemingway itinerary
As we just learned from the visit of the Baptistery of the Young Men
of ‘99, Ernest Hemingway was deeply and forever tied to this land,
having gone through an experience here that deeply marked his soul
and his life.
It is indeed here in Fossalta di Piave that you can relive and understand the experience of the American writer with the “Hemingway
Itinerary”. This route runs along an 11-km circular path, along which
the visitor is guided by an MP3 audio guide, which can be downloaded
free of charge from the specific page or directly on site via the QR
code available on all the steles. These are placed at irregular intervals
as landmarks and show photos with explanations and captions.
The route can be done on foot or by bike, is on partly unpaved municipal roads open to traffic, although there is very little traffic on them.
The route is also part of the circuit called “In the footsteps of Ernest
Hemingway” and there are guided tours available, also in combination
with other experiences to explore the area. A few steps away from
the memorial stone dedicated to Hemingway, there is the beautiful
flood plain of Fossalta di Piave, extending across some 30,000 square
metres. An area rich in nature and populated with the typical vegetation of these areas.
Information
www.laguerradihemingway.it
26
Capitello dell’Osteria de a Orsola
28 June 1915. Battle of the Solstice. The Sassari Brigade managed to
push back the attack of the Austro-Hungarian army, one of the most
famous episodes of World War I. This would be enough to stress the
importance of the Capital called the “Capitello dell’Osteria de a Orsola”: it was indeed near the capital that the two armies clashed.
The capital was damaged, but the statue of Sant’Antonio remained: indeed the artefact was dedicated to the saint, as well as to Our Lady.
This was, because in the seventies, despite the resistance to the
bombing, thanks to the care of the Sforza brothers and Ms. Orsola
Minetto, née De Maniacor, the capital was demolished to make room
for the new ring road.
Today only a few traces remain of the building of neoclassical inspiration and columns that supported the linearly moulded gable, both
built by Carlo Rubini in the 19th century and which is a real shame: in
areas in which world history made a vital turn, known through the life
of Hemingway and thousands of other soldiers, bringing back this capital to its former glory would help remember the sacrifice of so many
and recompose another important piece in the puzzle of history.
27
Stories of devotion
It is fairly common to come across votive capitals along country roods:
the Christian community has the custom of building them as a sign
of devotion to saints, or perhaps as a reminder of a dramatic event
linked to the history of their village. Often these capitals are commissioned by important figures for the village.
This is the case for the capital of the Madonna del Rosario and
Sant’Antonio, strongly supported by Cecilia Pavan née Gottardella
back in 1912, now owned by the municipality of Fossalta di Piave.
The religious artefact is in a neoclassical style, with simple lines that
are animated by two semi-columns, elegant supports to the architrave
under the linearly moulded gable.
The capital of Fossalta di Piave can be visited through a vaulted arch.
Around the artefact you can admire the frescoes created by painter
Celeghin di Meolo for the restoration of the entire artefact in 1995.
The paintings represent St. John the Baptist and St. Cecilia.
The Capital of the Madonna del Rosario and Sant’Antonio is a very
popular monument in Fossalta di Piave, also because it is located
along a fairly busy road and because it is a small gem of the town the
locals are very attached to.
28
Church of San Rocco
The rural church of San Rocco di Fossalta di Piave is known by locals
as the “Chiesa del Colera” or “Chiesa del Soccorso” because its history
is closely associated with a tragic episode in the history of the Lower
Piave area: the cholera epidemic that affected these areas in the immediate post-war period, left many victims.
The Moretto family, who owned the Fossalta di Piave area, strongly
backed its building, as if to make a vow to avoid the risks of the disease. The religious artefact is located near the main routes that develop along the main course of the Piave river. It is in excellent condition
and is open to the public.
By looking at the Church of San Rocco, one is impressed by the large
archivolt portal dominating the façade: it is in a typically neoclassical style, with simple and harmonious lines. The inside of the sacred
building is a real invitation to contemplation: indeed the fact of being
extremely bare enhances the silence of the church and helps reflection, while we immerse ourselves in a mystical and enchanting evocative room.
Notes
Via Madonna del Soccorso - Fossalta di Piave
29
Reclaimed land
The itinerary across reclaimed land offers the chance to fully
merge with the heart of a land whose history goes hand in
hand with that of its waters. Let yourself be tempted by the
excellence of a land full of delicious local products for you to try.
A journey in search of water over time and of things, in a
landscape depicted by the forces of nature and reshaped by
the skilled hands of mankind. along this route we realise that
the Lower Piave area is the masterly result of the evolution of
the elements that contributed to its relentless development
over time. First of all water,, then the crops, the artefacts of
reclaimed land, rural architecture, the daily action of mankind
and museums that explain all this to us.
The route of reclaimed land lets you fully merge with this
landscape that is unique and yet has many identities, by
looking at the Lower Piave area through the interpretation of
its natural habitats and its urban assets, discovering its natural
and architectural heritage, together with its watercourses.
31
AV
E
PI
FOSSALTA DI PIAVE
MEOLO
SI
QUARTO D’ALTINO
LE
S IL E
PORTEGRANDI
ALTINO
NOVENTA DI PIAVE
SAN DONÀ DI PIAVE
MUSILE DI PIAVE
PIA
VE
PIAVE VECCHIA
CAPOSILE
SI
LE
LAGUNA NORD
MARE ADRIATICO
The last tax collector
In Fossalta di Piave there is a pontoon bridge, where Fortunato has
been working tirelessly all his life. Just on that bridge, before him,
stood his father and his father’s father, who spent their days ferrying
goods and people from one side of the Piave to the other side, initially
with boats, until the day they decided to build a pontoon bridge.
Even today, those who want to cross the pontoon bridge between Noventa and Fossalta must pay a toll, as has always been the custom in
this stretch where the Piave gently approaches its mouth.
However, the pontoon bridge is above all about history and tradition.
It is there to tell the life of a whole community and a fairly recent
past, when ferrymen were destined sooner or later to die drowned,
as Fortunato’s grandfather did or when, during the war, fixed bridges
were blown up, leaving the pontoon bridge the only way to cross the
waters of the Piave river.
The pontoon bridge and Fortunato are now an institution in Fossalta
and definitely worth a visit, it will only cost a few cents.
34
Notes
Strada provinciale 48 Noventa di Piave-Meolo.
The toll is charged halfway across the bridge, both heading towards
Noventa di Piave and heading towards Fossalta di Piave.
River park - Noventa Floodplain Area
The Noventa di Piave river park is the main green area of this town
near Venice, a place that shows the charm of nature and is within easy
reach. The floodplain area of this town is located in Noventa’s historic
town centre and can be easily reached from the village through a tunnel.
This is an area that has seen many changes over time. First of all, you
might wonder: what is a floodplain? This is the flat land between the
bank of a river and its embankment, a strip of land of vital importance
in case of a flood because it becomes an emergency reservoir.
When looking at this area now, it seems impossible to believe that
up until a hundred years ago it looked like a real construction site: indeed this is where sand and gravel were taken and collected, the river
park was kept clean by the vegetation to allow mules to tow boats
with ropes. Today instead, Noventa’s floodplain is a green area: some
woodland areas, cultivated fields, a few houses. A picturesque area,
with no economic activity, subject to the careful maintenance carried out by the municipality to allow anyone who wants to immerse
themselves in nature, a few steps away from the town centre, to enjoy
a corner of the world with no brambles and trees in a bad state, to
spend a few relaxing hours.
Notes
The route from here to the next stage is the same as the route proposed in
the historical itinerary, but in the opposite direction.
36
Palazzo della Bonifica
A few minutes away from the San Donà river park there is Piazza Indipendenza, which is home to the Palazzo della Bonifica, backed by
“Consorzi Riuniti” in 1926 and built in just 18 months under the guide
of the engineer and architect Camillo Puglisi Allegra.
The offices of Consorzi Riuniti were set up here in 1929 and has since
then been a reference and guide for land reclamation and agriculture
in the Lower Piave area, taking on an historical value as a proof of the
key importance of land reclamation and agriculture in the development of the whole area. Particularly significant in the “Sala Ronchi”,
available for cultural events and a proof of the development of land
reclamation and its creators, and the particularly prestigious “Hall of
the Council”, with furnishings and finishes from 1928, and historical
maps of great interest. “Human reclamation as the main purpose of
land reclamation and essential premise for agricultural reclamation.”
(Silvio Trentin at the national congress in 1922).
The reclamation of the Lower Piave area was implemented by 14 Consortia in the early 20th century, which worked from Venice’s lagoon to
the Livenza river and the Adriatic coast to the area around Oderzo, an
area covering 62,000 hectares. Years and years of constant work and
sacrifice, including the lives of many people, which led to the land it
is today.
Notes
Piazza Indipendenza, 25 - 30027 San Donà di Piave (VE).
Guided tours available from Monday to Friday during business hours and
on Saturday upon reservation (time to be agreed): tel. +39 0421 596611e-mail: [email protected]
37
Museum of Land Reclamation of San Donà
A place of communication rather than exposure, closely connected
with the local area, with a distinctive character. This is the Museum of
Land Reclamation, though it is really more of an eco-museum, closely
connected with the surrounding area, as it provides routes that interact with the world outside.
The initial idea was a bit different. Indeed, it was meant to be a museum “of rural civilisation” with demographic, ethnic and anthropological material. This is how the museum of land reclamation of San Donà
came about: from the need to raise awareness, and to become aware
of the land around us. Today visitors will find a lot more, the signs
of the past and the transformations of the environment made manifest and brought to life by reconstructions, images, models and items
found. There are five sections: Archaeology, Ethnography, Warfare,
Nature, as well as a section specifically dedicated to Land Reclamation. The archaeological section contains finds from the excavations
of Cittanova, Fiorentina, Fossà, Formighè and Piveran; particularly Cittanova, where once stood the Roman city of Heraclia Veneta, then
called “Civitas Nova”. The ethnographic section has evocative reconstructions of interiors from the past. A stop in this place, which brings
together in its sections the elements that lead back to the history of
the area, is really a must.
Notes
There are also “emotional” guided tours to enter the heart of history and traditions.
Viale Primavera, 45 - 30027 San Donà di Piave (VE).
Tel. +39 0421 42047 - Fax +39 0421 41334.
39
The draining plant of Cittanova
The draining plant of Cittanova is between the Ramo canal that flows
into the Brian canal. Built in 1903 to meet the need to drain the
marshes of the Lower Piave area, it is one of the oldest around. It was
destroyed during World War I and then rebuilt.
What is a draining plant? It is a kind of “monumental” building containing different types of pumps used to lift large amounts of water in
reclaimed land, and transfer it into collectors for “high” water flowing
into the sea, as happens in the Netherlands. Today, this draining plant
has four electric motors with an overall capacity of 29,500 l/s.
The area has survived thanks to reclamation works carried out in the
early 20th century by the Reclamation Consortium of the Lower Piave
area and these grand plants in Destra Livenza, which have a capacity
of about 240,000 l/s. Cittanova is, among other things, immersed in
a picturesque landscape, where time seems to have stopped at the
stone slab placed on the façade of the draining plant, reminiscent
of the origins of this small rural village, where once stood “Civitas
Nova”.
It is interesting to observe the water level of the Brian Canal (connected directly with the sea) and note that the surrounding land is
below the sea level by more than a metre.
40
Notes
The draining plant at Cittanova is the oldest and largest of the Lower Piave
area and can be visited at this address Via Cittanova, 21- San Donà di Piave
(VE). Guided tours available.
Tel. +39 0421 596611- mail: [email protected]
The Intestadura Dam
The history of land reclamation in Veneto has ancient origins. You can
learn about them by going back over years and centuries to the discovery of creations through which inhabitants of the Venetian areas
could live in harmony with the surrounding area.
The Intestadura Dam is one of these works and was created to divert
the Piave river and allow for the reclamation of sterile wetlands. The
shift of the natural course of the Piave river is the culmination of the
works on the watercourses carried out by Venice: a project that lasted
more than twenty years before coming to an end with the creation of
the Intestadura Dam, which blocks the passage of water up to Caposile.
A barrage of the Piave river right in Musile seems to be a funny coincidence of fate, which maybe wanted to designate this town as a
perfect spot to finish the flow of water originating from the rocks of
the mountains around Belluno. Musile is a name with uncertain etymology. It may derive from the ancient language spoken in Veneto in
which ‘mussa’ means dam, embankment or raised area; in the Middle
Ages or ‘musil’ or ‘musile’ was also a synonym for an enclosed meadow. Taking a close look at this work of hydraulic engineering allows us
to understand how mankind has been able to change the land without
spoiling it, by preserving nature and biodiversity.
42
Notes
For those who like to navigate the waters of the Piave river, the Intestadura Dam is always open and is closed only if there are floods and low
waters on the Piave and Sile rivers.
Al Tajo harbour in Musile di Piave
Near the Intestadura Dam, where the branch of the old course of the
Piave river starts, there is a fascinating and unique place, where time
seems to have stopped, where the slow and calm pace of life on the
river comes back to life every day.
This the small harbour called “Al Tajo” (with reference to the “Taglio”
of the Piave river), where wooden piers were made for docking. This
is precisely where the wonderful itinerary along the old Piave river arrives, running from Caposile and arriving in this quiet and sunny spot,
where you can find peace and relax while listening to the gentle flow
of the river as it cradles small wooden boats moored to the pier near
the bank.
Those boats are, for many, small and delightful travelling companions,
each with a name and a story to tell, among the memories of old fishermen and tales of yesteryear.
The nature that surrounds this wonderful body of water is the typical
vegetation of the Lower Piave area, with green plants that emerge
from the water’s surface: low, green and luxuriant, they merge with
the reeds, which seem to grow right from the Piave’s riverbed, where
there are various fish species among the rocks and sediments.
Notes
The end of the route along the old Piave river, evening events are sometimes
held in this picturesque scenery.
43
Musile di Piave’s cantilever bridge
Near the point where the waters of the old Piave river meet those of
the Sile river, there is an industrial building built for the reclamation of
the surrounding land. We are on the border between Musile di Piave
and San Donà, near Caposile and we are talking about an old cantilever bridge built between 1925 and 1927.
The cantilever bridge worked with a sophisticated and ingenious system of counterweights and would manually open the movable parts
of the bridge to let rowing boats or boats with a low-power motor
pass. Today the cantilever bridge, perfectly preserved and used up until 1957, serves pedestrians and cyclists, who can enjoy the beautiful
scenery of the Lower Piave area: places where the works built by man
blend perfectly with the surrounding environment, without damaging
the wonderful views of the river.
Here, where the vegetation blends with the reeds and the sunlight
reflects off the river’s radiant blue waters, you come across an important landmark, a silent witness of past times when mankind lived
in harmony with nature, following its rhythm, taking the resources it
needed to live without damaging it. An interesting piece of information: The Caposile bridge is one of only two cantilever bridges left that
connect the banks of the Piave river.
44
Notes
The cantilever bridge connects via IV Novembre in Musile di Piave
with provincial road 43 in San Donà di Piave.
Access allowed to pedestrians and cyclists.
The pontoon bridge of Musile di Piave
A bridge is the link par excellence: a connection between people,
ideas, countries, roads, an adjustment of the environment to human
needs.
And in an area like the Venetian lagoon, a bridge is the basis for every
settlement.
One immediately thinks of Venice, which built its history on bridges
and buildings, but mankind also had to find a delicate balance with nature on the mainland in order to create and develop its own history.
Any kind of bridge is the best way to represent the adaptation of area
between the Piave river, the Sile river and the lagoon to human needs:
commerce, internal connections, safety.
A clear example is in Musile di Piave, near Caposile and the Cantilever
Bridge: a pontoon bridge, operating all year round, which allows maritime and transport to coexist and that closely resembles the ancient
construction methods used for the passages between one basin and
the next, one hamlet and the next, in memory of a rural road network
vital to the growth of this area. The location of the bridge further enhances it: it is indeed in the special protection site (ZPS) “Laguna di
Venezia” and the site with a relevance for the community (SIC) called
“Laguna superiore di Venezia”; this is where beautiful nature trails
start.
46
The Portegrandi Basin
There was, once upon a time, the Republic of Venice, the centre of
the world and a major trade hub. Therefore, trade by sea and rivers
played a key role in the Venetian economy and control over the access
of ships and boats in the various waterways was essential to maintain
this leading position at an international level.
They entered and left the Sile river through the doors built between
1682 and 1684 in Portegrandi, a place with an evocative name that
became the collection centre for the duties of this riverside area. Near
the reservoir, you can still see the Basin: a slab of Istrian stone on
which the rates payable by the boats were engraved, an additional
symbol of the importance of the movement that developed in the
centre.
Until about 1960 Portegrandi was a lively place for the exchange of
news and trade but then gradually lost its importance: today it is an
area in recovery to bring a century-old history and historical village
back to life.
In Portegrandi, Venetian history enthusiasts, tourists and scholars of
maritime and riverside trade can find a clear sign of Venetian history,
well connected with the nature and cycling trails in Quarto d’Altino.
47
The Trepalade Basin
Before the technological revolution, which led to the creation and development of the basins and the entrance doors to rivers, the communities of the Lower Piave area controlled the waterways through
one or more series of “palade”, fences placed on the river to control
the transit of boats and the goods they transported.
The name Trepalade derives precisely from them: namely, three of
them were built in the Sile river to force boats to dock on the bank, at
the Customs authority building.
These types of barrier were fairly common throughout the lagoon.
The village of Trepalade, again for the presence of the customs authority and for being an important trade hub between Treviso and
Venice, was known as the “scrivania” (Italian for desk).
Nearby you can also admire the small hamlet of Tresse, home to the
“ceppo di Tresse”, an historic relic of the battles that took place on
Monte Grappa during the Great War. You can also see the typical rural
houses of Reclamation.
48
The draining plant of Carmason
There are things that we often really take for granted. The water we
drink and the ground on which we walk, cultivate, and build are some
of them. In an area with a delicate and fragile balance, such as the
Venetian Lagoon between Sile and Piave, innovative and durable solutions have been found throughout the centuries to solve the problem
of water management, both to ensure everyday use in homes and to
protect the area from the water of the rivers and the lagoon and its
use in agriculture and the development of towns in the area.
The draining system of Carmason, Quarto d’Altino, is a spectacular example of the system of draining plants.
Built in 1932 and based on the architectural structure of the rural area,
it is still in operation, ensuring the coverage of nearly 1550 hectares
of land: so a fundamental means for the agricultural and industrial
activities in the area.
This work, featuring an architecture compatible with the rural area
around it, has a solid-brick vertical structure, another horizontal one
made of wood and, finally, a brick roof.
All around there are cycling routes of unique beauty, especially the
cycling lane on an unpaved road that winds along the Zero river up
to Altino.
51
Rediscovering nature
The river shapes the land it flows through, involves the
population living around it and changes the natural perception
of the environment. Moreover, the river is the road along
whose banks started the civilisations and cultures that have
contributed to shaping the surrounding landscape. The river
is life, that’s why the landscape along the river is a kind of
environment that must be experienced in order to understand it.
Our route is designed to let you discover the natural beauty of
this landscape.
So going through it, you will find yourself immersed in different
sceneries, never dull and always picturesque and all near the
Piave river. You will be able to admire unforgettable sunsets
on the lagoon, learn to identify the plants in the river parks
with the designated information signs; as you walk through
the reeds, you will look at the sky and see flocks of colourful
birds passing; you will have the chance to cross the flowering
meadows, quiet forests, either while cycling or strolling at your
leisure, observe the biodiversity of the area, learn about the
customs and traditions of the Lower Piave area. All this with
the knowledge that what is before your eyes is a natural area
of outstanding beauty at a national level. And you will see for
yourself.
53
AV
E
PI
FOSSALTA DI PIAVE
MEOLO
SI
QUARTO D’ALTINO
LE
S IL E
PORTEGRANDI
ALTINO
NOVENTA DI PIAVE
SAN DONÀ DI PIAVE
MUSILE DI PIAVE
PIA
VE
PIAVE VECCHIA
CAPOSILE
SI
LE
LAGUNA NORD
MARE ADRIATICO
Exploring nature
Imagine you are visiting a place halfway between a museum and a laboratory. Then imagine that here you can learn everything there is to
know about the nature and the ecology of a riverside environment.
Imagine that in the same place there are experts who are always available to take you on guided nature walks in the countryside, woods and
surrounding waterways.
Noventa di Piave’s Pendolino centre encapsulates all this.
Created in 1991 as a permanent structure connected directly to the
Protected Area of the Middle and Lower Course of the Piave, the
Centro Pendolino holds a number of activities: labs including sensory
games, games to learn about the environment and offer the chance to
use microscopes and stereoscopes to observe animals and plants, in
addition to the reproduction of artificial habitats for breeding worms,
snails, spiders and lizards.
The Pendolino educational nature centre has a very strong focus on
raising awareness about pollution: namely, it teaches many visitors
phyto treatment techniques and natural self-treatment mechanisms.
It also provides in-depth information on air, water, land, algae, food
and consumption. There’s something for everyone.
For further information
Open all year round, booking in advance.
Via Romanziol, 130 - Noventa di Piave (VE) - www.ilpendolino.it
It is connected to a “nature trail” about two kilometres long across
agricultural and riverside environments.
57
Blossoming bank meadows
One rarely thinks of it, but embankment meadows are very important
for the ecosystem of a plain. Often underestimated, flowering meadows along the river banks are key habitats, custodians of a specific biodiversity that unfortunately mankind is forgetting to preserve. Lovely
corners of paradise where you can reconnect with nature, where the
pace of life slows down again and you can forget the frenzy of everyday life.
Embankment meadows should be known and preserved not only for
their undeniable beauty, but especially for the biological and environmental aspect for which they stand out.
The plants and animals living there are part of a world to defend in
order to preserve biodiversity. This is something that characterised
these places for centuries and where the most common herbaceous
species grow, including tall oat-grass, milfoil, meadow sage, bird’s-foot
trefoil, large speedwells and buttercups.
Throughout the centuries, meadows played an important role in rural economy: used to feed animals and then constantly mowed, they
have always managed to regenerate themselves.
Whether small or big, the meadows of the river banks of the Lower
Piave area, with their wonderful colourful corollas, can tell a lot more
than you might think.
For further information
“Prati di pianura. Aspetti paesaggistici, naturalistici ed ecologici”,
C. Marcolin, M. Zanetti, 2012 Nuova dimensione Portogruaro.
58
The course of the old Piave River
There are places that have something extra. Because they have shaped
history, because the locals lived there and shaped them to be able to
experience them, because they are still the focus of a life of a territory.
All this is the old Piave river: once the end of the river before the
deviation, today it is waterway connecting the beautiful and delicate
ecosystems of the Sile and the Piave rivers; once an area of vital importance for the local economy, mainly based on fishing and farming,
now an important asset in terms of tourism; once a front for battles
in World War I, now a place where you can find peace and tranquillity
through walks and excursions.
The road lined with trees along the river, which also stands out because there is no embankment, is the ideal way to learn about the
secrets and gems of the Lower Piave area.
An area that, thanks to land reclamation and proper exploitation of
the Piave river, brought this area to grow and become what it is today:
a land to discover through the walks that blend in with the nature of
the six kilometre course of the old Piave river, where water, riverside
vegetation, crops and works of mankind come together in a landscape
for you to explore.
60
“La Piave Vecchia” environmental centre
Fishing, the river, resurgence: the three museum rooms of the Environmental Education Territorial Laboratory “The Piave Vecchia” are
the ideal place to explore and appreciate the traditions and culture of
the Lower Piave area.
The structure, set up by the cultural-naturalistic association “Il Pendolino” in the buildings of the former Castaldia primary school in Musile di Piave, has a multimedia room, the museum rooms mentioned
above and an educational workshop.
Here visitors can really get in contact with the life of the fishing farms,
reclaimed land, the life in Veneto’s coastal areas: dioramas, educational panels, models and views of natural landscapes help to really
understand how fragile and delicate this area is, and how much attention and passion it takes to maintain its balance.
Guided tours and the many excursions through the paths and nature
trails easily accessible from the structure also offer an additional opportunity for those who want to discover the secrets and admire the
gems of a land where nature and mankind have found a way to live
and grow together over the centuries.
Landscapes, animals, buildings: they all help create a magical atmosphere that will touch anyone who wants to explore the Musile area.
Notes
The Laboratorio Territoriale di Educazione Ambientale
is in Musile di Piave (VE), in Caposile hamlet - Tel. +39 0421 65060
www.ilpendolino.it
61
The lagoon north of Venice
Venice’s lagoon is a strip of land on the border between the mainland
and the sea, made of small islands, sandbanks home to unique flora
and fauna and networks of rivers, which, together with the waters of
the sea, create beautiful effects with light and its reflections, offering unique views, especially at dawn when pink flamingos have often
been spotted.
The lagoon stretches over more than five hundred square kilometres:
it is the largest lagoon in Italy and together with Venice it is in the list
of UNESCO World Heritage Sites and protected by the creation of the
Parco della Laguna.
A traditional tourist destination thanks to the many cycling routes
through which you can travel by bike along its sandbanks and its
banks, it is also very popular with birdwatchers as it is very important
for the wintering and migration of waterfowl.
In winter the lagoon, at nightfall, fills up with deep silences and sudden mists that have inspired many noir legends; this adds charm to
the lagoon, its variety, its ever-changing views that captivate not only
those who see it for the first time, but at every other opportunity.
62
Fishing Farms
A sunset by the sea, the reeds and the fields on the horizon, water
flowing in the background. These are the ingredients you can find during a fish dinner in the Lower Piave area.
However, to make it a truly memorable meal, the fish itself is crucial:
the Fishing Farms in Musile di Piave and Quarto d’Altino can remove
any doubts about that.
In these areas, as in the whole of the Venetian area, the fishing tradition, as you can guess, has always been one of the cornerstones of the
local economy and livelihood and still plays an important role today.
This means the waters of the lagoon and the rivers that flow into it
have always been used to farm the best fish to ensure locals and visitors a quality product.
Separated from the lagoon by artificial and natural embankments,
which prevent the ebb and flow of the tide, the fishing farms are surfaces of brackish water that is not too deep. Here you can find different habitats and various fish species and the vegetation typical of
the lagoon proliferate, whilst preserving biodiversity: a farm perfectly
integrated with the surrounding environment and that fully respects
nature’s natural course.
64
Airone environmental centre
The Airone environmental centre is the place to get up and close with
the flora and fauna of the Lower Piave area: divided into sections including an education room where you can study the environment of
the Sile river and the lagoon. Natural areas with a unique beauty to
them, suspended between dream and reality, with a fairy tale-like atmosphere, where anything can happen, wild animals follow us with a
somewhat frightened look, hidden among the reeds and vegetation,
with the river flowing slowly in the background.
At the Airone centre you can observe the flora and fauna that live in
the Lower Piave area and that make these places so fascinating. Home
to migratory birds, mammals and reptiles that live within a protected
conservation area: an untouched example of the morphology of the
old Venetian countryside. The Airone centre has educational sections
for students of all ages and adults curious to know more about the
Lower Piave, both from a natural and historical point of view.
Learning about nature, sounds and smells, the slow rhythms marked
by the passing of the seasons, the migration of birds, from the colour
of plants and leaves.
Exploring a precious environment, where biodiversity has been retained, to give each of us the pleasure of a day marked by the respect
and love for the natural beauty around us.
66
Note
The “Centro Ambientale Airone” is in Portegrandi,
near Quarto d’Altino, not far away from the Trepalade nature reserve.
The centre is open all year round, booking in advance.
Information
www.oasitrepalade.com
Bosco Belvedere - Meolo
Seeking peace, seeking an answer, seeking yourself. Getting in touch
with nature is the best way to find yourself, appreciate what is around
us and slow down the pace of everyday life.
Bosco Belvedere can really encapsulate all this. Nineteen hectares
available, a nature trail about a kilometre and a half long, all the best
of the local flora and fauna: in Meolo there is a truly magical place.
This is an important zone for the environmental balance of the area,
between the Sile river and agricultural areas and in the future it seems
set to grow further to try to create the once historic “Bosco di Meolo”,
the woods of Meolo: a vital green area for the town, but also the ideal
place for tourists and citizens looking to relax, a new experience, eager to immerse themselves in nature or take run in a breathtaking
landscape.
The proximity to major cycling and tourist routes in the area makes
Bosco Belvedere and its visitor centre easy to get to. Its value is further
enhanced by the presence of nearby lakes and holiday farms offering
more beauty to explore and where you can taste the best local dishes:
Bosco Belvedere is not only a place to visit, but a real experience.
Notes
Bosco Belvedere is in Via San Filippo in the area between Marteggia and Meolo.
67
Casa del Bosco
“There was once a magical forest where, when the sun was up, you
could always hear sparrows of the field and the forest, larks and
chaffinches, blackbirds and greenfinch sing.”
Every country in the world has legends and stories about fantastic
creatures living in the woods. This explains the scenery of the Casa del
Bosco (Italian for House of the Woods) in Meolo: a building immersed
in greenery and that can be accessed from the road along the village’s
river.
Casa del Bosco dates back to 1500 and belonged to the convent of
the Nuns of Val Verde, a former convent on Mazzorbo island, now no
longer there, of which only the bell tower remains. The house did not
have a religious function, it housed the family who cultivated the convent’s land, the same plot of land that is now Bosco Belvedere.
Initially Casa del Bosco had an arcaded façade consisting of two round
arches, but then in 1800 it was completely renovated and took on the
features we see today: the house has been expanded, as a storey was
added.
The building is now there as a witness to a rural past holding the roots
and history of Meolo, but also the presence of lords, aristocracy, monasteries and institutions that contributed to the growth of the Lower
Piave area.
Notes
Via San Filippo, 5
16th century farmhouse
68
Trepalade nature reserve
“Everything you can imagine, nature has already created.” These
words by Albert Einstein best represent the wonders that the Trepalade nature reserve can offer to those wishing to visit it and those who
know how to appreciate it.
An area where every kind of animal can find its ideal habitat thanks
to the protection of the government’s Environmental Heritage, which
allowed for the maintenance and growth of species risking extinction
and typical fauna of the Lower Piave area. A natural reserve that, because of its value, also obtained from the Administrative authority the
management of the Lower Piave Ornithological nature reserve to further enhance its views, gems and potential.
One area where flora thrives, where you can admire reeds, bushes,
the natural vegetation typical of this area, where the Nature Trail and
the valuable information given by guides will reveal all the secrets of
the conservation area. In Trepalade you can enter another world, pass
from your everyday hectic life to a unique atmosphere, such as the
one that only nature, in all its forms, can provide.
A comprehensive visitor centre and near the “Airone” Environmental
Education Centre in Portegrandi, this will complete this wonderful experience along the Sile river, one of the most significant resurgence
rivers in Europe.
For information and booking
www.oasitrepalade.it
69
Regional Park of the Sile river
“Exactly, although inverted, everything is reflected in the water of the
river: the meadow and fresh piles of hay, the houses, the church and
the barn. The peaceful birch trees on the bank, the girl with her sky
blue dress. Though the sun does not look like a sphere, but a long blazing column.” The landscape is reflected in the river of C. Vansenkin.
A poem that seems to speak about the area of the park of the Sile
river, a truly special river because it is made of resurgence water: it
comes up from the depths of the earth, immediately abundant and
vital.
On the other hand, it is a well-known fact that rivers are often the key
to understanding the history of a village: economic and artistic events
depend on it, along with the life of the population; water provides
an interpretation of everyday life. The regional park of the Sile river
extends over four thousand hectares and includes eleven municipalities; established in 1991, it can be visited on foot, by bicycle, alone or
with other people.
The park has an irresistible charm in spring, when we are faced with a
blaze of colours from the vegetation in its full glory. Winter is instead
the ideal moment for birdwatchers, because this is the time for migrations of waterfowl to stop in the most open and wide areas of the
river.
70
The wetlands of San Michele Vecchio
In collective imagery, marshes are always associated with the cursed
and the damned, man’s dark side growing in the mysterious semidarkness of the underwood and moving between the slippery mud,
entrusted to breaths of wind. Like a secret corner forever out of sunlight’s reach.
Does the Wetland of San Michele Vecchio in Quarto d’Altino have a
little of this kind of charm? You will be amazed to see that you will not
find any thorny brambles, but a luxuriant flora made of flowers that
cover the area with joy: namely Utricularia Vulgaris, a rare aquatic
plant that feeds on small insects leaning on its yellow petals.
No evil spirit, but rather typical animals living in wetlands that without
this kind of habitat would otherwise disappear or at least flee somewhere else.
You will not get lost in the maze of muddy and dark trails, because the
wetlands of San Michele have a clear signs showing the directions,
along with educational and naturalistic information.
A natural area of great interest in terms of botany, flora, birds, entomology and vegetation.
71
Houses of yesteryear
Five hundred years of history, sensational frescoes, statues,
century-old parks. Old hamlets, breathtaking views, majestic
fountains. Veneto’s villas: there are more than 5,000 of them
in the Veneto and Friuli Venezia Giulia regions. They have been
rediscovered and, especially in recent years, turned into a
unique destination for cultural tourism.
The itinerary proposed here invites you to visit the stately
homes in the town of Meolo along a route where art, culture
and nature create a wonderful mix. Moreover, they provide
additional ideas to visit some of the villas in nearby towns,
Quarto d’Altino, Fossalta di Piave and Noventa.
The villas in the Veneto region are testament to the importance
of the Republic of Venice for this land: as many know, these
are manor houses of Venetian aristocracy, developed largely in
rural areas of the domains of the mainland between the end of
the 15th century and the 19th century.
A tour of the ancient aristocratic estates of timeless charm to
rediscover the fascinating Serenissima while taking a stroll.
73
AV
E
PI
FOSSALTA DI PIAVE
MEOLO
SI
QUARTO D’ALTINO
LE
S IL E
PORTEGRANDI
ALTINO
NOVENTA DI PIAVE
SAN DONÀ DI PIAVE
MUSILE DI PIAVE
PIA
VE
PIAVE VECCHIA
CAPOSILE
SI
LE
LAGUNA NORD
MARE ADRIATICO
Ca’ Cappello and Ca’ Malipiero
The town hall was the main residence of the Cappello family in Meolo
and once there was direct access from the river.
The building is an extraordinary proof of the first Venetian villas, the
15th century ones. On the right of the building there is a barn, of
which some portions still remain and where you can still see the Lion
of Saint Mark and the 15th century frieze. In the 15th century the area
where it was built, now an urban area, was part of the great family estate. The main floor has a triple lancet window made of Istrian stone
with a sundial placed in 1516 next to it. Inside the building there is a
14th-15th pictorial cycle almost intact with images featuring a sacred
and moral content. Large trees emerge from the walls of the main
floor holding scrolls with prayers or passages from the Bible. These
are the same ones in another stately home in Meolo belonging to the
same family and now known as Ca’ Corner. In the ‘portego’ (the central room of a big residence) there are frescoed coats of arms representing the political and economic policies of the family, while in the
west room stands a large Wheel of fortune. Throughout the building
there are about 900 square metres of fresco, all of which are open
to the public. Ca’ Malipiero, also built in the 15th century, shares its
architectural structure with the Cappello palace. The main entrance
was once the one facing the river.
Notes
Ca’ Cappello - town hall (upper/right image) in Piazza Martiri della Libertà, 1
Ca’ Malipiero via Vallio, 20
76
Casa Vio and Villa Priuli - Del Maschio
Casa Vio, dating back to the 15th century and built by the Cappello
family, was part of the economic system that revolved around the villas of the aristocratic Venetian family.
The house, painted perhaps when the town hall was painted, was a
sort of functional extension, and maybe, despite the fact that it has
the architectural structure of a 14th-15th century farmhouse, the
building hosted some family members or had a representative economic function. The building has a 14th century pattern with red and
white diamonds on the outer walls, reminiscent of the façade of Palazzo Ducale in Venice and featured on many of the other farmhouses
of the Cappello family. However, the distinctive features are the 15th
century frescoes of the porch, in a certain continuity with those of Ca’
Cappello and Ca’ Corner and representing figures of saints.
There are many political symbols: the lion of St. Mark, the coat of
arms of the Cappello family and that of the March of Treviso, which
once owned the land. Villa Priuli - Del Maschio is instead a 17th century villa, whose entrance faced the river with a lovely garden that led
guests up to the front door, on top of which there is a large palladian
window. As in a great painting, an elegant ancient frame completes
the building’s façades.
Notes
Casa Vio (image) via Armando Diaz, 65
Villa Priuli - Del Maschio via Armando Diaz, 12
78
Mysteries and suggestions in Ca’ Corner
Villa Corner Franzini Santin is a villa enveloped in mystery: indeed
there are certain aspects of this building that remain unclear. The 16th
century villa was owned by the Cappello family, to whom we owe the
frescoes inside it, almost identical to those in the town hall. But when
was it actually built? The many restoration works make it really difficult to even identify a rough date. Could it be that the core of this
valuable villa in Veneto is an old medieval tower?
And why does it have a number of accesses directly onto the Meolo river? Maybe it originally contained a ‘cavana’, a shelter for small
boats?
What we know for certain is that the Cappello family lived here, given
the coats of arms dotted inside the villa and around the 17th century
it became the property of N.H. Andrea Corner, from the branch of the
Queen of Cyprus.
The 18th century chapel is still in place.
Less of a mystery instead is the nearby Villa Corner Padovan, a threestorey building built between the 18th and 19th century and located
on the river bank with a front garden: characteristics that denote the
residential character of the building.
The villa has a very simple structure and there are no religious or political symbols on the façades.
Notes
Villa Corner Padovan via Palazzato, 18
Villa Corner - Franzini - Santin (image) Via Ca’ Corner - In Corner hamlet
79
Villa Priuli and Villa De Marchi Nardari
Two Venetian villas located a bit outside the town centre but close
to each other; different in many respects, though both really worth a
visit. We are speaking about Villa Priuli and Villa De Marchi Nardari,
aristocratic stately homes located along the Meolo river towards the
point where it joins the Fossetta canal. Villa Priuli (16 or 17th century) owes its name to the aristocratic Venetian family who owned it
in the 18th century. Before it became the family’s summer residence,
in the 17th century the building was owned by “Cancelliere Grande”
Domenico Ballarin, head of the Venetian bureaucracy, the highest office a non-aristocratic citizen could aspire to, right after the Doge, his
advisers and the Procurators of St. Mark. Then through marriage it
was passed to the Barbarigo family, whose Gothic coat of arms, held
by a lion of St. Mark, stands on the façade with ten different mascarons. Inside traces remain of the beautiful original frescoes. A few
feet away you can stop to observe the second villa in this area, Villa
De Marchi Nardari, a late 18th century building among the best preserved of the whole municipality. It stands in a truly impressive place:
an English-style park, with even a wellhead. Another feature of this
valuable villa is the wide entrance loggia with three round arches. The
villa is very close to the river, to the extent that to access it you need
to cross a bridge.
Notes
Villa Priuli Via San Filippo Neri, 11-13 - Meolo
Villa De Marchi Nardari (image) Via San Filippo, 29 - Loc. La Palazzina
80
The history of Italy in Meolo
Winter 1917. In a time of difficulty for Italy during World War I, after
the defeat of Caporetto, General Cadorna was replaced by Armando
Diaz, who led the Italian army to victories on the Piave river in the
following year. One of the most famous victories was the battle of
the Solstice, also fought in the hamlet of Losson: this changing of the
guard, which made it into history books, took place in Villa Folco Dreina in Meolo. Built in the 19th century, it has the typical square
Venetian plant with three floors.
The large garden, now open to the public and the impressive ‘barchessa’, a porticoed farm building, with Doric columns contribute to
making it one of the most important villas in town.
The Dreina family also owned Villa Cagnato, also called the villa “of
Columns” for the sumptuous arcade with coupled Doric columns on
the ground floor of the beautiful villa, the only one of its kind in the
surrounding area: a central body and the ‘barchessa’ to complete the
set of buildings. The manor is divided into three floors, with a coat of
arms of the Cappello family on the Gothic central trefoil single-lancet
window, certainly from some other building.
Indeed registers show that the villa was built in its present form in the
first half of the 19th century. Next to it stands villa Vendrame Franzin,
also from the 19th century.
Notes
Villa Folco - Dreina (image) Piazzetta Cesare Battisti, 14
Villa Dreina “delle Colonne” Riviera XVIII Giugno 64
Villa Vendrame - Franzin Riviera XVIII Giugno 62
81
World War I and the Losson villas
The village of Losson, to which the words “of the Battle” were added
in memory of the battle of the Solstice with hundreds of victims who
fought here. Between 18-23 June 1918 it was affected by the ravages
of the war and lost much of its historical and architectural heritage.
The sumptuous wooden Baroque altar in the church of San Girolamo,
donated in 1612 by the Pisani family, helps portray the idea of the
wealth that was lost.
The only villa still visible today is one built in the 17th century by the
Badoer family, known as Villa Naratovich or Villa Piovesan - Zanin. It is
an impressive building where, despite changes carried out in the 20th
century, you can still see some of the original features, including the
grand Istrian stone opening on the main floor, topped by a round arch,
in turn topped by a keystone featuring a lion’s head.
Villa Paruta - Sacerdoti, involved directly in the war, was instead destroyed and only the ‘barchessa’ with a simple design remains. From
17th century documents, we also know that near the bend of the
Meolo Vecchio river stood the villa of the aristocratic Sagredo family,
of which no trace remains today.
Notes
Villa Badoer - Naratovich - Piovesan - Zanin
Via Capo d’Argine, 2 - Loc. Losson della Battaglia
82
Villas in Fossalta
It is a well-known fact that up until the 18th century aristocratic Venetian families bought vast properties in various areas in Veneto to expand their agricultural businesses, but certainly also to own new and
beautiful locations to spend holidays. So they began to build the Villas
in Veneto: unique architectural, cultural and landscape features.
The Municipality of Fossalta was not exempt from this phenomenon,
indeed it is worth mentioning at least three Venetian style villas in
the area: one of them is the Tolotti Silvestri Villa. Built in the 18th
century and immersed in a green haven, away from road traffic, which
gives it an aura of mystery and importance. A building with the classic
features of Venetian architecture, unlike Villa Rossetto (19th century),
featuring a simpler and more straightforward design and a large loggia that, as it joins the columns that hold it up, creates four majestic
arches.
Villa Bortolotti-Belloni-Marini, named Canthus, from the 18th cent., is
in the “Lampol” loop of Piave river, set in the middle of a wide park.
Having by miracle escaped the destruction of the first World War, it
shows four memorial stones for Avellino’s and Ferrara’s Brigades’ resistance in 1918. Today it hosts a long tradition wine company.
Notes
Villa Tolotti Silvestri Via Roma, 41 - Loc. Contee
Villa Rossetto (upper image) Via Roma
Villa Bortolotti-Belloni-Marini (left) named Canthus
Via Passo Lampol, 15/17 - Loc. Lampol
85
Villas in Noventa di Piave
Noventa di Piave has played a central role in north-eastern Veneto, especially during the rule of the Venetian Republic. This is precisely why
first many notables Venetians and aristocratic and wealthy local families, chose Noventa as the ideal place to build their villas and palaces:
one can admire their beauty still now whilst going round the village.
In the centre of the village there is Villa Ca’ Zorzi: the ‘barchessa’, the
large park and the series of arcades and columns highlight the value of
a building now also used as a venue for cultural events.
The same applies for Villa Doria De Zuliani, built by wealthy landowners from Belluno and now a clear example of a manor, with exposed
brickwork and a symmetrical design.
Again in the centre of the village, Villa Lucatello represents the model
of a villa restored several times, in the 16th century, in the 19th century and finally at the beginning of the 20th century. Today it is well
preserved, including a large garden.
The small tour of the village centre ends with the Town Hall, built according to the design of Venetian palaces and worth a visit. Outside
the centre there is the Annex of Villa Da Mula and Villa Bortoluzzi,
which are the two oldest and best preserved villas in the area of Noventa di Piave.
86
Notes
Villa Da Mula is in Romanziol hamlet; Villa Bortoluzzi in Via
Santa Teresina 9; the Town Hall in Piazza Marconi; Villa Lucatello
in Piazza Vittorio Emanuele; Villa Doria De Zuliani (upper image)
in Via Roma 159 e Villa Ca’ Zorzi (right) in Via Guaiane 4.
Villas in Quarto d’Altino
The residences of rich Venetian families, not far from Venice, but secluded enough to leave a trace of uniqueness and majesty that the
patriarchy Venetian wanted to find in the small town of the Lower
Piave area.
Most villas in the Veneto region have the same structure: a four-sided
plan and three floors, including the main one with larger windows,
maybe with three lancets, which denote their importance.
Each house was surrounded by a beautiful park or garden, which not
only served to embellish the outside, but also as a passage to the
countryside or to connect the main house with the ‘barchesse’ and
storage areas.
The town of Quarto d’Altino has not been excluded from development
of these gems, both as buildings and in terms of art: you can admire
Villa Foscolo, a 17th century villa of the Veneto region with its characteristic elongated shape, which somewhat differs from the classical
Venetian model.
There is then Villa de Reali, built in the 17th century and recently restored, with the typical division on three levels. It was merged with
the 18th century Villa Bacchini Canossa, a manor of modest size.
88
Notes
Villa Foscolo in Trepalade hamlet
Villa De Reali Via Sant’Eliodoro 52 - Altino hamlet
Villa Bacchini Canossa Via Sant’Eliodoro 50 - Altino hamlet
Gastronomic excellence
Local products from a peasant tradition portray the life of the
countryside in the Veneto region associated with the frugality
of simple meals and yet capable of enhancing flavours and
fragrances.
From fish to cornmeal, vegetables, rice and desserts, local
flavours are found in traditional recipes and offer the palate
delicious moments of joy.
The history of a land also passes through its kitchens, in the
stories of habits that become moments where people share
and come together.
An important tradition you can learn about and appreciate
by following a simple route that will lead you to discover the
gastronomic excellence of the Lower Piave area, full of farms
and wineries that carry forward with dedication traditional
crops and are happy to share them, as well as the stories that
lie behind every product. The local market held on Saturday
morning in San Donà di Piave is a good opportunity to meet
many of them and learn about the agricultural tradition of the
local area.
91
Asparagus, beans, rice and walnuts
Every land has its fruits. The Lower Piave area is no exception and it
can offer any kind of local produce and dishes in every season.
The most prestigious crops include Carnaroli rice, with a long-standing
tradition in San Donà di Piave, Brian and Eraclea: it does not overcook
and this makes it ideal for risottos and soups, especially the wholemeal variant.
For risottos, a special ingredient may be “Verdon” beans: typical of
the area of San Donà di Piave. They are small to medium-sized pale
yellow beans. Their very delicate taste makes them unique.
Another worthwhile alternative is the White Asparagus of Palazzetto,
which also comes from the area around San Donà and Eraclea: this is
not a very common product and therefore very special, almost only
intended for use at home. The introduction of some hybrid breeds
indeed led to the increase of the plant’s diseases, whose survival is
really in danger.
Another must-try local product is the big river nut: typical of the area
between Musile and Noventa di Piave, you can enjoy it in many of the
local desserts and liqueurs such as Nocino, which enhance its strong
flavour.
92
Desserts
If you are in the Lower Piave area, you should not deny yourself the
pleasure of tasting local desserts with a good coffee or some excellent
mulled wine.
Every occasion has its specific dessert: for example, during Easter, you
must taste some fugazza, a sweet focaccia with simple, natural ingredients, the typical ones used to make any dessert: white flour, sugar,
baking powder and butter. However, the unmistakable extra touch is
the chopped almonds on top, which give a more typical flavour and
an even crispier crust.
During carnival there are fritòe and gaeàni, that is fritters with Italian
cream, zabaione, chocolate or just raisins, and crostoli, a typical Venetian dessert now made across the whole of Italy.
Finally let’s not forget the famous pìntza, a simple and yet very tasty
dessert, a traditional winter staple during celebrations for the “pan
and vin”: it should indeed be eaten with excellent mulled wine, usually during the Christmas holidays.
93
White pearl cornmeal and sandbank honey
Typical local products from the marshlands in the Lower Piave area
are something precious and delicious; sometimes they are so original
that, if anything, this is reason enough for tasting them.
For example, there is a native variety of maize that is a tradition for
the Lower Piave areas: we are talking about white pearl maize, a high
quality variety for niche products. What does this typical product look
like?
The cobs are slender and elongated, with large grains that look like
bright pearls. Try and order White Pearl maize polenta, you will be
amazed to see a darker polenta than the one made with hybrid white
ones on the market, but taste it: full-bodied and elegant, different. An
interesting piece of information: in Noventa there is a stone mill that
still grinds this variety of maize in the traditional way and makes this
and other fine flour. Another gem of the Lower Piave area is sandbank
honey: the sandbank is the dry land emerged near and inside the lagoon and bordering with the salty water. This honey comes from a
flower called by experts “fiorella di barena” (Italian for sea-lavender)
and its production dates back to the 19th century; it has revitalising
and balsamic properties, as well as being great for your respiratory
system.
94
Fish, lobsters and frogs
The life of the inhabitants of the Lower Piave area has always been
closely connected with the river running through it, so it is natural to
think that one of the most popular foods, even in the past, was fish.
We discovered the intense fish farming carried out in the area since
the Middle Ages: by farming the land properly, mankind transformed
some areas of the lagoon into natural “pools” called fishing farms to
farm fish for human consumption.
Red mullets, grey mullet, dogfish, sardines, eels, folpetti and many
other species of fish can be enjoyed in the many typical restaurants
that source the fish directly from local waters.
There are many recipes to tempt you, as the inhabitants of the Lower
Piave area really know how to cook their fish!
A few ideas: not to miss the typical dish poénta e schie, that polenta
with valuable freshwater grey prawns.
Another peculiar and yet delicious dish is frog broth: indeed night
hunting for these small amphibians is a typical activity of the area.
Tasting is believing.
95
Credits
We thank for their kind collaboration:
Arzana s.r.l.
Associazione Culturale “Antesigna”
Associazione Cultour Active
Associazione Naturalistica “Il Pendolino”
Associazione Perdipiave
A.T.S. Progetto PIA_R Basso Piave
Comune di Fossalta di Piave
Comune di Meolo
Comune di Musile di Piave
Comune di Noventa di Piave
Comune di Quarto d’Altino
Comune di San Donà di Piave
Consorzio di Bonifica del Veneto Orientale
Consorzio di Bonifica Acque Risorgive
Cooperativa Sociale Qualità
Laura Paterlini - Archeologa
Manuel Meneghel - Assessore Comune di Meolo (texts of Meolo’s villas)
Museo della Bonifica di San Donà di Piave
Pier Paolo Del Turco - Provincia di Venezia
Provincia di Treviso
Superintendence to Archaeological Properties of Veneto Region
Villa Canthus di Fossalta di Piave
Photo Credits
Archivio APT della Provincia di Venezia - © CHIBAPRINT - fotografia & immagine: p. 41, 45, 49, 70
Comune di Fossalta di Piave: p. 27
Comune di Meolo: p. 67, 68, 76, 77, 78, 80, 81
Comune di Noventa di Piave: p. 86, 87
Comune di Quarto d’Altino: p. 16, 17, 47, 69, 71
Consorzio di Bonifica Acque Risorgive: p. 50, 51
Consorzio di Bonifica del Veneto Orientale: p. 37
Corinna Marcolin - Associazione Naturalistica “Il Pendolino”: p. 56, 57, 58, 59
Elena Pasqualini: p. 18, 20, 21, 48, 79, 82, 83, 88, 89
Gian Pietro Dragoni - Amministrazione provinciale di Treviso: copertina; p. 24, 25, 26, 63, 64, 65
Ministero dei beni e delle attività culturali e del turismo - Soprintendenza per i beni archeologici del Veneto: p. 22
Michele Zanetti: p. 61
Museo della Bonifica di San Donà di Piave: p. 38, 39
Perdipiave: p. 44
PIA_R BASSO PIAVE - http://piarbassopiave.sandonadipiave.net: p. 85
Pier Paolo Del Turco - Provincia di Venezia: p. 14, 15, 19, 23, 35, 36, 40, 42, 43, 46, 60
Sandro Perissinotto: p. 28, 29, 34
Villa Canthus di Fossalta di Piave - www.villacanthus.com: p. 84
96
From landscapes of drained land to natural environments, from the sumptuous
houses of Venetian nobility up to the history and the typical products of a land
that has given and taken away a lot over the centuries. By following these paths you
will have the opportunity to appreciate a land that conceals very precious gems.

where river and land meet

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