One man`s savage attempt to follow his beloved Denver Broncos
Transcription
One man`s savage attempt to follow his beloved Denver Broncos
09 / 2011 $3.99 US page seventy three MAssivE ProjEct The Broncos are rebuilding from top to bottom and on both sides of the ball page eighty eight 2 page one hundred and four liFE And FootbAll A FAn in ExilE Matt McChesney’s journey of triumph, tragedy and education One man’s savage attempt to follow his beloved Denver Broncos September 2011 m i l e h i g h s p o r t s . c o m contributors J. GRIGSBy CRAwfORd contributors Typically, freelance submissions for Mile High Sports Magazine come from local writers and fans. It’s a rare occasion, however, when such stories come from other countries or continents. In the case of J. Grigsby Crawford, his story idea was somewhere in-between. Crawford, a lifelong Broncos fan and a member of the Peace Corps, was forced to “follow” his beloved Broncos from a tiny town in Ecuador, South America. His trying and turbulent experience is chronicled in this month’s issue, marking Crawford’s inaugural appearance in MHSM. tHis MontH’s toPic: TEBOW OR ORTON? Editorial editor-in-cHief - Doug Ottewill Tebow. If the mantra is still Super Bowl or bust, then Orton’s the wrong choice. [email protected] senior editors - Brian Dvorak I’ll take John 3:16. Michael Stock To watch my wallet, babysit my kids or escort my wife? Tebow. Ted Yhedri Timmy T. contriButing editors - Clinton Doaks Orton. I’ve never been a fan of lefties. Norm LaChatlier Orton. I feel worse about myself watching 15 on Sundays. Drew Litton Elway. Red Schaefley Tebow. contriButing Writers - Julie Browman Orton. Robin Carlin I’m going with Orton Hears A Who! Jimmy Cautosin Orton. Just going with what I see. Vanessa Hughes Kyle Raymond Orton. Daniel Mohrmann Quinn. Ken Reed Andrew Luck. Pencils Robinson Tebow. Pat Rooney Orton. ProofreAder - Laura Rothenfeld Orton. Or I’d be willing to step in as QB wARReN McCARTy Making his Mile High Sports Magazine debut is Warren McCarty. Hailing from the great state of Texas, McCarty has made his way north, finding a home on Mile High Sports Radio. Each weekend, McCarty’s takes on football and fighting can be heard on AM 1510 or FM 93.7 from 2p-4p. But this month, the editors of the magazine called upon McCarty to interview “Rampage” Jackson, who will be fighting in Denver as part of UFC 135. McCarty’s interview can be found in this month’s installment of the Mile High Interview. if necessary. contriButions - MHSM will consider, but assumes no responsibility for, unsolicited proposals, manuscripts, photographs and illustrations. All such materials not accompanied by a self-addressed, stamped envelope will not be returned. Haas Rock Publications, LLC retains all reprint rights for submitted materials. CrEatiVE Art director - Nick Heckman Tebow. [email protected] Advertising coordinAtor / WeB MAster - Josh Pennock Tebow, but right handed. [email protected] contriButing PHotogrAPHers - Jathan Campbell Orton for President! Don Cudney Orton. I don’t know squat about football, but I know experience and talent is worth a lot more than looks and charisma. Getty Images Tebow is more photogenic. Randy Parietti Models in bikinis. Wait, are we talking football? Bill Swartz Line up both QBs in shotgun formation three yards apart and make ‘em guess. Have two plays called, and let the center decide, based on the defensive setup. If Fox needs some X’s and O’s, I am available. NICK SCLAfANI Another Mile High Sports Radio host showcasing his skills as a writer this month is co-host of the Pro and the Pundit, Nick Sclafani. Along with his on-air partner, former Buff and Bronco Matt McChesney, Sclafani delves into the serious side of sports, and can be heard on air each Saturday and Sunday from 10a-12p. Through his work and his relationship with McChesney, a story was born. In fact, it’s the story of McChesney’s wild ride to professional football. In his first efforts as an MHSM contributor, Sclafani pens a story that’s both intimate and revealing. JAMeS MeRILATT, dOUG OTTewILL ANd dAN MOHRMANN Football season at Mile High Sports Magazine just wouldn’t be complete without an extensive breakdown of the Denver Broncos. Along with some help from the talent at Mile High Sports Radio, James Merilatt, Doug Ottewill and Dan Mohrmann tackle the dog days of camp in search of some answers. After weeks of research, observation and interviews, the MHSM trio assesses the 2011 Denver Broncos. COMING up IN OCTOBeR... drop the gloves and get ready for hockey. Per the norm, MHSM previews the upcoming season on ice at every level. specifically, the staff’s hockey experts – Julie Browman, vanessa Hughes, robin carlin and Pat rooney – delve into the stories and personalities that are sure to make this year an exciting season inside the rink. cover PHoto: Bill Swartz and Randy Parietti • Swartz Photography • www.swartzphoto.com 8 September 2011 m i l e h i g h s p o r t s . c o m adVErtiSiNG SalES Account executives - Chris Dolge Read “The Outsider” (Tuesdays on milehighsports.com) [email protected] Will McKinlay Tebow, and please take me off your “cc all” list. [email protected] diStriBUtioN distriBution coordinAtor - Amber Merilatt T-E-B-0-W! [email protected] radio AM1510 | FM93.7 stAtion MAnAger - Casey Light Orton, in deference to Steve DeBerg. casey@ milehighsports.com executive Producer - Dan Bettlach A bearded Jake Plummer. dan@ milehighsports.com on-Air Hosts Marcelo Balboa Chris Bianchi Irv Brown T.C. Clark Chris Cruz Josh Davis Jimmy Doogan Gary “Coach” Eklund Eric Goodman Kurt Hansen Karl Hungus Meegan Keifel Mark Kiszla Warren McCarty Matt McChesney Mark McIntosh Renaud Notaro Josh Pennock Tad Powers Marcello Romano Jenny Dean Schmidt Nick Sclafani Matt Sierra Lisa Snyder Luke Sobieck Brandon Spano Gil Whiteley Dan Williams Joe Williams Andy Zodin HAAS ROCK PUBLICATIONS President - James Merilatt Tebow. Without a doubt. jmerilatt@ milehighsports.com Accounting - Kathy Merilatt Tebow. A losing season with Tebow is better than a season of mediocrity with Orton. in-House LegAL counseL - William T. Sawyer, Esq. Orton. legal@ milehighsports.com *** MiLe HigH sPorts 11203 East Peakview Avenue Centennial, CO 80111 p. 303.650.1795 f. 303.524.3410 www.milehighsports.com Copyright 2011 Haas Rock Publications, LLC All rights reserved BY J. GRIGSBY CRAWFORD T here is only one point during the last two NFL seasons when it is good to be a Broncos fan – early fall 2009. We’re winning. We’re hot. We are rocking. We are rolling. Our star players are healthy. Josh McDaniels isn’t cheating yet. We’re doing so well that people are beginning to get over the Jay Cutler trade. We’re good enough that people are almost forgetting about Mike Shanahan. We are… undefeated. Broncos fans are on top of the world – and I am in the middle of nowhere. I n early 2009, after graduating college, I left Colorado and began service as a Peace Corps volunteer in South America. Ecuador is a country nearly the same size as Colorado, squished in between Colombia and Peru. Its capital, Quito, lies almost exactly on the equator. If you leave Quito and head south for 104 September 2011 m i l e h i g h s p o r t s . c o m about 16 hours, you arrive in Zumbi, the tiny town that I would live in for the next two years. Nestled in the Amazonian foothills in the southeastern corner of the country, it is about as far as you could get from Peace Corps headquarters in Quito and still be in Ecuador. It is also 20 miles from the Peruvian border – a line that is still somewhat ill defined, given the jungle’s thickness and a border dispute that’s left some areas scattered with landmines to this day. As a Peace Corps volunteer, it’s a perfect place to teach rural communities about improving their environment; as an NFL fan, it’s like being sent off into exile as part of some cruel joke. I was far from lots of things, but most of all, I was far from football – fútbol americano, that is. On the first Monday night of the season in 2008, I watched us (Note: It’s us. I’m a fan, so I don’t need to be proper or say “the Denver Broncos” like I’m some neutral reporter. I’m not. And my Broncos aren’t they or them. To me, the Broncos are we and us. Just so we’re clear.) dismantle the Raiders from the comfort of my own couch. On this first Monday night of the following season, I decapitated a chicken with a machete, held it up while the blood drained out and ate it for dinner an hour later. Neither my couch nor my team was anywhere to be found. I t’s week six of the 2009 season and we’re 5-0. To get here, we needed a miracle pass deflection in Cincinnati, a last-second goal line stand against Dallas and an overtime against New England in week five. But still, we’re 5-0 and feeling like rock stars. And tonight we play the division rival San Diego Chargers – on Monday Night Football. I have traveled over three hours ascending out of the jungle and into Loja, a city in Ecuador’s southern sierra. As a large provincial capital not too far away, Loja has been a comfort zone during my service. I can come here every month or so and experience faster Internet, some restaurant options beyond the roadside cantinas serving only chicken and rice, an actual grocery store, and – wait for it – cable television. Just recently, I’ve found out that the Latin American ESPN – a channel that normally devotes approximately 23 hours and 59 minutes of every day to soccer coverage – actually airs the Monday Night Football broadcast. Since then, I’ve had this date circled, underlined and highlighted on my calendar. I should point out that before it was football season, I had gone through such boredom and long periods of intense isolation down here that on more than one occasion I’ve forgotten what day it is – and I’m not talking about “Oops, I totally just wrote down the wrong day in my planner.” I’m talking about going about my business for two full days before realizing it was Friday, not Wednesday. But not now – not in the middle of football season with my team doing well and the chance to actually watch them play. I would’ve endured a 10-hour bus ride to see this if I had to. Why the excitement? First, I clearly haven’t been getting the Denver CBS affiliate beamed down into my jungle hut on Sundays. Also, there probably isn’t a satellite in the world big enough to pick up 850 KOA’s radio signal and allow me to hear Dave Logan call the game from a hemisphere away. Then, there’s the issue of the worldwide web. I spent the previous six months ducking into obscure Internet cafés across I have spent four hours straight in sweaty jungle Internet cafés – which, at $1 an hour, means I paid nearly half of my daily wage. the countryside, pulling up the Denver Post’s web site on dial-up connections to read about the Cutler trade and McDaniels’ other sketchy offseason moves. Needless to say, the jungle Internet doesn’t allow me to stream any video or online radio; it barely allows me to open up an email with an attachment. So once the regular season rolled around, what depths would I stoop to in order follow the games? I present to you ESPN.com’s GameTracker, a web page that allows you to follow games live online (of course, just how “live” the game appears to be unfolding depends on your connection speed.) And I use the term following the game loosely, since GameTracker is really just a web page that refreshes every minute with lines, dots, and letters showing stats, a description of the previous play and a diagram of a football field to mark where the ball is at that moment. GameTracker is a nifty little device for people who have no other way to follow the action; it also happens to be a giant leap backwards for anyone who grew up following games on TV – or even radio. A halfcentury ago, you could press your ear up to the transistor radio and get a fluid analysis of events happening on the field. When the ball wasn’t in play, you at least had two people offering commentary on the game. Now, despite GameTracker’s streaming stats and score pop-ups from across the league, I’m much less connected to what’s actually happening in the game. There is no picture or sound. But what’s really eerie about it is that I’m emotionally tied to lines and dots on a screen – a collection of random pixels are making me crack my knuckles with nervousness, lurch with excitement and writhe in anger. And this is over events that probably took place several minutes before. Sometimes, I don’t know whom I feel more sorry for – myself or the ESPN employee who’s actually entering this information into the system all afternoon. This is how I’ve followed every game so far this year. I have spent four hours straight in sweaty jungle Internet cafes – September 2011 m i l e h i g h s p o r t s . c o m 105 which, at $1 an hour, means I paid nearly half of my daily wage as a volunteer. Then, I realized that four hours in those places is no place to be on an empty stomach; so for the following weeks, I ate pasta beforehand and brought a Gatorade with me, probably marking the first time in history anyone has ever “carbed up” and intentionally hydrated before using the worldwide web. I have also had my own “away games,” where I was traveling to a Peace Corps meeting on the other side of the country and had to wait to receive text message updates from my brother back home as my bus swerved through the Andes, in and out of cell reception, at uncomfortable speeds. So tonight is big. I’ve ridden the bus into the big city. I’ve gotten a room at a local hostel ($5 for the night). I’ve even scoped out a place to watch the game. Tonight at 7:00 p.m., I’ll walk in, ask them to change the channel to ESPN (pronounced “ehspeeeeeen”), sit back and relax as I watch the game. It’s so simple. Except that nothing here is simple. Later in the evening, I hear from another volunteer who lives 14 hours north of me. Despite the fact that he is a Chargers fan from San Diego, he’s a good friend (long story). And he is bearing bad news: It seems that in place of MNF, the Latin American ESPN has chosen to carry the TBS broadcast of Major League Baseball’s playoffs, which overlaps precisely with the football game. Since he’s a Chargers fan, I do some fact checking. This leads me on a wild goose chase of an Internet search that begins with ESPN’s en español web page and ends up at some other Spanish-language chatrooms about fútbol americano, where I confirm the bad news and see that dudes from Tijuana to Lima are also distraught by the fact that ESPN will be showing the Dodgers-Phillies match-up instead of MNF. (I’m not sure which surprises me more: That theses sites exist or that I was mad enough to be navigating them.) Now, I’m scouring the entire city. I’m on a mission and I’m a little revved up. It feels like blood is being pumped into my cranium at a faster-than-normal rate and my fingers are twitching a bit. I need to find some Monday Night Football. I’ve reasoned that one of the nicer hotels or restaurants in town might have In 2010, Matt Prater led the satellite TV, and Broncos in scoring with 76 that they might total points, the fewest by have access to a team leader in a 16-game one of ESPN’s season since 1979. other channels, 106 September 2011 m i l e h i g h s p o r t s . c o m Until now, I’ve never had anything try to get in between me and my Broncos on Monday Night Football. which might be showing the football game. (Note: If it’s strange that I’m a Peace Corps volunteer in a developing country and I’m referring to not only Internet but text messaging and satellite TV, I should point out that Ecuador – like many other under-developed countries – is a country of contradictions. The same way Ecuador straddles the Andes Mountains from north to south, it also straddles two eras: An ancient, underdeveloped one, and a new, globalized one. This means that tiny villages like the ones where many Peace Corps volunteers live, have Internet or cable connections or hardware stores, but still dump their latrines directly into their main watershed or grossly malnourish their children. There are also absurd jumps in technology: For instance, there are no landlines, but everyone has a cell phone. Therefore, it’s the type of country where I can live under somewhat “rugged” circumstances, but still be less than four hours from a city with a few nice hotels, banks, a small tourism industry, and – if God has any mercy – some satellite television.) Now, I’m poking my head in every bar and restaurant I can find and asking – to no avail – if they have any type of DIRECTV or multiple ESPN channels. Some look at me like they have no idea what I’m talking about. Some say, “Sí señor” only to turn on the remote and spin through a grand total of six fuzzy Ecuadorian stations. Some tell me to check out the place that’s just around the corner. So, I go to that place and they tell me they can’t help me, but that I should really go back to the place where I just came from – because they’re 100 percent sure that place does get the channel. As volunteers, we’ve been coached numerous times on the various ways that stress and anxiety manifest in the body and mind of the sojourner (that’s me). Over the years, studies have shown that simply being in an environment different from what you’re used to – whether it be dissimilar in language, customs, climate, etc. – can cause an array of perilous reactions from jaw clenching to severe depression to volatile mood swings that include bursts of anger and so on. Every person experiences some form of this “culture shock” – some milder than others – at some point during his or her stay. I’ve had my moments, but for the most part over the last eight months, I’ve kept the more extreme reactions to the onset of culture shock at bay. And of course, until now, I’ve never had anything try to get in between me and my Broncos on Monday Night Football. I spend another hour running around the city, working up a sweat and becoming increasingly upset by the non-answers I’m getting. I haven’t had any luck at any of the hotels or even a nearby place that advertises itself as a sports bar (!). But just before game time, I discover an upscale restaurant on the far end of town that not only claims to have DIRECTV, but also has a giant pull-down projection screen normally used for karaoke night. The manager assures me they have access to the ESPN channel I’m referring to. I sit and he asks if I’d like a drink. I tell him I’ll wait to make sure that the game is actually coming on. He smiles and says no problem, then turns the channel to ESPN. While I wait, I’m thinking about how it’s been over nine months since I’ve seen Champ Bailey and the boys running around… live… in uniform. Now, here I am with the chance to see us at last – in all our undefeated glory. At 7:00 p.m., ESPN comes out of a commercial break and my palms are sweating and I’m tapping my foot anxiously. Since I’m the only person in the restaurant, all the waiters are standing around and staring at me, wondering why I’m so worked up. I smile uncomfortably. Then, the TV fades in to an overhead shot of… Dodger Stadium. I lurch out of my seat and run to the manager. We have a brief and useless conversation in which he finally admits that, “Well, eh, um, ha! I must have forgot to mention, señor, that all we have is just regular cable.” And I barely hear him because I’m already out the door, marching down the street – getting up to a jog now – and working up my second full sweat in less than an hour. My face is red, I’m a little dizzy and I’m breathing heavily. Just like that, with about 10 minutes until kickoff, a scheduling conflict at hand, and confusion over South American TV reception, nearly a year’s worth of culture shock, frustration and unchecked aggression come raining down on me. Much to the shock and disgust of onlookers and passers-by, I’m ranting and swearing – and they don’t need to speak English to know it isn’t pretty. Now, the salty sweat is dripping down my face and stinging my eyes, my teeth are clenched, and I’m snarling and slurring that all I want is some goddamn football like I was promised. And somewhere on a quiet, poorly lit street in this quaint city in the southern sierra of Ecuador, I hear it come out of my mouth as though it’s not even coming from me so much as it’s coming from the bowels of a feral beast. It sounds something like: “I WILL BURN THIS PLACE DOWN!” By the time I walk back to the center of town, I’m relatively calm. I’ve had a few blocks to blow off some steam. I’ve also all but given up on seeing any football tonight. I cross the central plaza and decide to find a place to eat, while halfheartedly keeping my eyes peeled for any hole in the wall that by some miracle will have satellite television. At first, the search is again fruitless, but just as I’m thinking to myself, “Well, at least baseball season ends in a week,” I duck my head into a small diner near one of the hotels I’d been by earlier in the day. What I see is too good to be true: At the back of the empty dining room is a tiny TV screen, and right below that, glistening under the fluorescent lights, is a DIRECTV box. “I don’t believe it!” I yell loud enough for the cooks to hear. “You have DIRECTV?” I yelp to the man at the cash register. “Of course, it’s right there,” he says. “This is incredible, this is…” I stutter and pause and Kyle Orton has thrown for remember that the sixth and seventh most it was just a yards in a season (3,802 hypothesis in 2009; 3,653 in 2010) in of mine that Broncos history. DIRECTV would 108 September 2011 m i l e h i g h s p o r t s . c o m I’m snarling and slurring that all I want is some football like I was promised. have a second ESPN channel and that that station would be showing the game. “Please… um… could I please use the remote?” The man smiles and hands it to me. I find the channel, turn to it and… Kyle Orton completes a third-down pass to Brandon Marshall. It’s early in the first quarter, game tied. I’m in disbelief. I’m in heaven. I call my friend to say that I found a place showing the game. I find out that in his town they’ve had no such luck. I describe my night and how I could have given up, sulked around some more, gotten dinner and gone to bed thinking how great it could have been to see this game live on TV, but how instead I kept the dream alive and here I am enjoying the fruits of my labor, and oh how magical it is! His response: “Whatever, man.” The rest is not really important, because after what I’ve gone through just to see this game, I don’t think there’s any way we could lose. Over the next three quarters, Eddie Royal returns two kicks for touchdowns, leading us to a 34-23 win. We’re still undefeated. We’re 6-0. I walk back to my hostel in the dark feeling glorious. O ver the next 10 weeks, though, we will win only two more games; and over the next 16 months, we will win a grand total of six. But here I am, once again on the road, following the game via text messages and finding out that, for the 50th season in a row, we won’t finish undefeated. Here I am back in the Internet cafes – my eyes burning, my butt numb – staring at our pitiful defense and an offense that can’t convert on third downs. (When I say Internet café, it probably brings to mind high-tech images of nice computers, sleek desks, carefully-placed wires and adjustable office chairs; however, in my case it’s better to visualize a place with plastic lawn furniture where I compete with flies for fresh oxygen while wondering if the loud humming noises coming from the sockets will lead to my first experience with a fire extinguisher.) Here I am with friends celebrating Thanksgiving at a Shuar indigenous community (I joke to the other volunteers that it’s our first Thanksgiving with Native Americans; they don’t laugh) and silently fist pumping by the campfire when I get the text message saying we’ve finally won another game. Here I am once again following a game via GameTracker at an Internet café. Chris Simms can’t complete a pass. I have an idea where this dismal game is headed and just then the power goes out, forcing me to walk across town in the pouring rain and get on a lonely bus ride back to my community. I’m seeing the losses add up and wondering what’s the point, but then remembering that I sure as hell don’t have anything better to do on a Sunday afternoon. Here I am traveling into Loja for another Monday Night Football game and this time there are no scheduling conflicts. There are, however, rolling blackouts throughout the country that – surprise! – coincide exactly with the game, forcing me on another edgy chase around town to find the one place that has a backup generator and then still having to stretch an extension cord across the lobby of the nicest hotel in town before I can finally sit back, relax, and watch us… get our asses kicked. Here I am, by chance, discovering that, at the Internet café in Loja with the “fast” connection, I can stream 850 KOA’s web site and listen “live” to a game that we actually win against Kansas City. And here I am taking the bus back into Loja for the following weekend’s game, only to discover that last week was just a fluke: Streaming off the radio station’s web site from outside the U.S. is prohibited, so I’ve bussed all the way into the big city just to use GameTracker like I normally do out in the jungle. I’m beginning to feel like I have some sort of personal relationship with GameTracker; now I even have conversations with myself under my breath giving analysis of the games. Here I am in the Internet café once again, becoming nauseous in the heat, as I observe freaking JaMarcus Russell lead the Raiders to a last-minute victory over us at home and swearing that it’s the last time I follow a game like this online. And here I am just a week later following the game online – this time in the Guayaquil airport paying the ungodly sum of $1.75 an hour for the Internet while I wait for my brother to arrive in Ecuador for a visit. And, finally, here we are in the final week of the season, incredibly still with a chance to make the playoffs with a win and my brother and I are on vacation in Cartagena, Colombia. We’re hopping in and out of taxis like madmen, going to every fancy hotel in the city to see if they have any football, only to get back to our apartment as the game is winding down and finding out that we received a royal shellacking that makes us glad we never saw it anyway. A nd then I’m feeling emptier than I’ve ever felt in an offseason. Despite the losing and the frustration, the weekly games helped pass the time slightly quicker during the loneliest and most isolated months of my life. Throughout the season, I kept the Broncos’ schedule taped to the wall above my desk. On it, I’d marked our wins and losses after every game. Most people would be eager to tear down such an eerie reminder of failure – even looking at the column of outcomes that reads WWWWWWLLLLWWLLLL is somewhat grotesque – but for me, taking it down is a sad reminder that I have to wait another eight months to have something to look forward to again. I have a whole offseason to think about the facts. Never in my lifetime have the Broncos had a 2-8 stretch. We’re just the third team in history to miss the playoffs after a 6-0 start. This is the first time in 32 years that we’ve gone four seasons in a row without making the playoffs. This is the first decade since the ‘60s that we’ve gone without a Super Bowl appearance (after averaging two per decade in the ‘70s, ‘80s and ‘90s). Somewhere in the dust left behind by two separate four-game losing streaks, the notion that we actually won more games than most people predicted we would was no longer a consolation. After an offseason of previous changes in personnel we found ourselves with a better defense and a worse offense – all culminating in the exact same crappy win-loss record as the year before. How could things possibly get any worse? W elcome to the 2010 season. Things actually start off well – so well, in fact, that I’m watching us win a game in person. In mid-September, I come back to the U.S. for a sibling’s wedding and I have a few days in Colorado, which overlap with our home game against the Seahawks. My dad has season tickets with some friends and we drive down to Denver and tailgate beforehand. Then, we’re in Invesco Field. The last time I saw this place was on a grainy TV in a South American Last season against the Colts, restaurant with Kyle Orton had the secondthe waiter looking most yards (476), third most attempts (57) and most on with profound completions (37) in a single confusion. But game in Broncos history. now I’m here and 110 September 2011 m i l e h i g h s p o r t s . c o m it’s all a bit overwhelming: There’s the smoke-filled tunnel that leads the players onto the field. There are Tim Tebow jerseys everywhere I look. I’m surrounded by people speaking… English! I’m not even thinking about GameTracker. I’m holding a beer that costs $7, an amount of money that, in Ecuador, could buy me a beer and I’d still have enough left over for breakfast, lunch and dinner. The ticket in my pocket costs $77, or 26 percent of my monthly volunteer living allowance. The Broncos beat the Seahawks 31-14 to move to a 1-1 record on the season. Unfortunately, after this, I have to head back to the jungle. And even more unfortunately, I’ve just witnessed one-quarter of all the games we would win this season. Here I am in the Internet café once again, becoming nauseous in the heat, as I observe freaking JaMarcus Russell lead the Raiders to a lastminute victory over us at home and swearing that it’s the last time I follow a game like this online. my own community, thanks to a friend’s intricate channel-pirating scheme involving a satellite dish that looks like it could receive channels from the moon. I sit down alone in a poorly lit room while outside there’s a hard rain causing f lashf loods and such loud noise on the tin roof that I can barely hear the game. I do, however, get to see the game and it’s not pretty: a 35-14 loss to the Chargers that, remarkably, isn’t as close as the score makes it sound. Just sitting there through the whole thing is a soul-crushing endeavor, but O ut of the 14 remaining games this season, we lose 11. We lose big; we lose small; we lose to good teams; we lose to bad teams; we lose at home; we lose away; we lose just about every way you can lose – we even fly to London for a game and lose in a foreign country. And here I am in more scary Internet cafés following the carnage one pixel at a time. And here I am visiting friends at their remote villages and receiving increasingly depressing messages that describe the pain via text; and here I am vacationing at the beach searching for reception so I can receive the bad news in real-time: I get to follow us lose from some of the most exotic locations on earth. And here are more power outages in the region, leaving me to sit and wait for messages on my phone, except it runs out of batteries and there’s nowhere to charge it. And here are giant landslides, meaning I couldn’t take the bus into Loja to watch a game even if I wanted to. And here’s the time that the power actually is up and running in the province, except that a worker on my building electrocutes himself to death, causing… um, complications with the electricity in the neighborhood on game day. And here I am, for once, watching Monday Night Football in the comfort of it’s better than another night of reading in my room alone for five hours. And here I am once more with the Internet functioning and the power up and running, except that it’s national census day in Ecuador, meaning that everyone has to stay in their homes to be interviewed by the high school students who are charged with scouring the country to interview every household, including foreigners. Anyone caught out in public on this day will be arrested. A 13-year-old girl asks me census questions while it rains outside. We lose 36-33 to the Rams. T hen, the jungle fog clears. The Broncos limp to the end of the 2010 season and I complete my Peace Corps service. I wrap up my time of going to such lengths to see – or not see – a game. I revel in the fact that I no longer have to travel over mountains to almost feel connected to my team. I’m euphoric to move on after two forgettable seasons (and a forgettable coach). I’m ecstatic to put an end to two years away from friends, family and football. I’m overjoyed to be back in the heart of Broncos Country. It’s fantastic. I, for one, am ready for some football!