Mountain - Explore Big Sky

EXPLORING LIFE, LAND AND CULTURE FROM THE HEART OF THE YELLOWSTONE REGION
Mountain
FREE
summer 2013
Primitive hunter:
Sasha Hyland
GEAR
Photo by Jake Campos
dogs • kids • car camping • bikes
washington
wineries
Angler-conservationist
yellowstone
craig mathews
adventure & culture in
and around the park
A formation:
Bakken photo essay
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electronic dance
music in
a crescendo
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Mountain
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Mountain
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Specializing in all of Big Sky, Moonlight Basin,
Yellowstone Club & Spanish Peaks
Jackie Milller,
Managing Broker
(406) 539-5003
Michael Thomas
Broker, CRS
(406) 580-4758
Sandy Revisky
Broker, CRS, GRI
(406) 539-6316
Jason Parks
Broker
(406) 580-4758
Ania Bulis
Broker
(406) 580-6852
Branif Scott
Broker
(406) 579-9599
Michelle Horning
Assist. & Sales Assoc.
(406) 570-8901
Our Team Sells more Real Estate in Big Sky than any other Firm,
providing our Buyers and Sellers with Exceptional Opportunities.
PureWestProperties.com ♦ [email protected] ♦ (406) 995-4009
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As evening fades to night, steam rises from the moon-like surface
of the upper terraces of Mammoth Hot Springs.
Photo by Ethan Confer / ethanconfer.com
TOC
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Mountain
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SUMMER 2013
On the cover: Sasha Hyland practices
her mounted archery on the Ellison
Ranch, near McLeod, Montana. Hyland,
who makes her own bows and arrows,
has shot big game animals from atop
her horse, Kalida, and is founder of the
nonprofit Montana Awareness Education
and Equine Rehabilitation Association.
Find more on page 18.
departments
14 Trailhead
Dirt bike racing, Cody’s Wild West
River Fest and cheese
18 Outlook
Profile of a primitive hunter, teacher
22 Outbound Photo Gallery
30 Tales
Bowhunting in pronghorn country
Running Grand Canyon at 42,000 CFS
42 Regional
Teresa Bruffey searches for her
ancestors’ homestead
46 Environment
A vital refuge: Dome Mountain Ranch
49 Science
Will wolverines be listed as threatened?
TOC
75 Music
Electronic dance music – at the height
of its powers
78 Real Estate
Architect Larry Pearson’s pioneering
mind
82 Gear
A dog’s life
Car camping rules!
89 Explore
A dad’s guide to mountain adventure
with little ones
94 Guide: Yellowstone region
Whitewater, galleries, spas and more
Outlaw’s restaurant picks
104 Adventure
The Rut 50k, Montana’s Euro-style
ultramarathon
108 Health
Gluten-free: fact or fad?
118 Artisan
Shelly Bermont custom jewelry
12 0 Featured Outlaw
Buckskin Bill, the eccentric mountain man
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Mountain
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Chick’N Fried gives a young rider a run for his money at the 2012 Professional Bull Riders event in Big Sky, Montana. The 2013 tour brings
two nights of music and bull riding to the Big Sky Town Center July 31
and August 1. Find more at explorebigsky.com/bigskypbr.
Photo by jake campos / jakecampos.com
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FEATURES
34 NOW
A formation: Adapting to life in the
Bakken
A photographic essay depicts life in an
oil boom.
Images: Tyler Busby
Words: Joseph T. O’Connor
52 PROFILE
A compass for life
Former cop and owner of Blue Ribbon
Flies in West Yellowstone, Montana,
Craig Mathews has influenced fly
fishing and conservation philosophy
worldwide.
Words: Emily Stifler
60 OUTDOOR SPORTS: BIKING
Three stories on two wheels: Jackson,
Wyoming, intro to cyclocross, and the
dirt on extreme mountain biker Mike
Kinrade.
Words: Kristen Pope, Chris Davis,
Emily Stifler
68 ESCAPE
Kauai, baby
This is Heaven on Earth.
Words: Eric Ladd
101 HISTORY
The Haynes legacy lives on
In 1887, Frank J. Haynes completed
the first winter photographic
documentation of Yellowstone,
spending 29 days covering 200 miles,
and nearly dying on Mount Washburn.
Now, the newly restored Old Faithful
Haynes Photo Gallery provides visitors
a place to give back.
Words: Maria Wyllie
112 CULTURE
Art from Earth
A wine expert and Afghanistan veteran
explores the growing Washington State
wine scene, and introduces some of its
key players.
Words: Kurt Erickson
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Mountain
OUTLAW PUBLICATIONS
BE SEEN BY OVER
1 MILLION PEOPLE
Summer 2013
Publisher
editorial
Eric Ladd
Managing Editor
Emily Stifler
creative
editor
Joseph T. O’Connor
CREATIVE DIRECTOR
Mike Martins
REGIONALLY
Missoula
Helena
Anaconda
Hamilton
Butte
Bozeman
Three Forks
Wisdom
Dillon
hundreds of drop points
surrounding Yellowstone
National Park
Big Sky
Ennis
Virginia City
Big Timber
Billings
West Yellowstone
Red Lodge
Island Park
Ashton, ID
Idaho Falls, ID
Yellowstone
National Park
Staff writer/
distribution director
Tyler Allen
Graphic Designer
Kelsey Dzintars
Editorial Assistant
Maria Wyllie
Sales and Operations
Cody, WY
Victor, ID
Driggs, ID
Jackson, WY
NATIONALLY
Contributing Writers
Ashley Allan, Teresa Bruffey, Chris Davis, Sean Forbes, Caleb
George, Marcie Hahn-Knoff, Jenny Ladd, Molly Loomis, Kathy
Lynch, Luke Lynch, Tony McCue, Kristen Pope, Erik Reinhold
Contributing Photographers
Stephen Adamson, Rebecca Bredehoft, Tyler Busby, Jake Campos,
Joris Van Cutsem. Chris Davis, Ryan Day Thompson, Aaron Feinberg,
J.B. Klyap, Max Lowe, Larry Masters, Buddy Mays, Forrest McCarthy,
Tony McCue, Reid Morth, Brad Orsted, Larry Pearson, Tori Pintar,
David Reeves, Brian Sorg, Kene Sperry, Jason Thompson, Nick
Wolcott, Jesse Ziegler
Dog Days of Summer
Camp Big Sky’s third annual
fundraiser, Dog Days of Summer, is Saturday, August 10,
in Big Sky, Montana. The fun
includes a canine costume
parade, a pet trick contest, dog
demos, a fun trail run/walk, a
rubber duck race, a cakewalk,
ice cream floats, and the dock
diving competition.
EVERYWHERE
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Contact [email protected] or call
Mountain for advertising
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406.995.2055
opportunities
Project Coordinator
Emily O’Connor
Director of Business
Development Yellowstone region
EJ Daws
drop points in
Washington, Oregon
and mailed to 38 states
8
Director of Business
Development Pacific Northwest
Kurt Erickson
Chief operating officer
Megan Paulson
Operations Director
Katie Morrison
Livingston
Gardiner Cooke City
Video Director
Brian Niles
Find dog gear reviews on p. 82
For advertising or subscription inquiries,
email [email protected]
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explorebigsky
from the publisher
Travel near and far
Mountain Outlaw is a compilation of stories inspired from the
region in and around our nation’s oldest national park, Yellowstone. In each issue, we also have a travel section taking readers
to adventures afar.
Past editions include stories from the Grand Canyon, Nepal
and Bali. In this magazine, readers will get a glimpse of Kauai, a
magnificent island paradise with arguably the most idyllic sunset on the planet. In fall 2013, we’ll feature a tale of traveling to
Sayulita, Mexico, recounting the taco stands, surf breaks and
oceanfront lodging that define this quaint beach town.
While it’s difficult to leave the Yellowstone region, it’s fun
to find hideaway adventures in other parts of the globe. This
magazine is meant to inspire and help guide you to these amazing places.
|
Hunting
Lord Ranch on Trout Creek
|
Ranching
highlighted in the Kauai feature. They help bring our publication to life.
Whether you’re reading this magazine en route to Montana,
riding the train to work in Manhattan or nestled into a coffee
shop in Bozeman, please enjoy this issue and feel free to send
us your ideas and feedback.
My appreciation for the hard work on this publication and
support from our advertisers runs deep. For this issue, I want
to give special credit to talented contributing photographers
like Tyler Busby, who shot the Bakken photo essay, cover
photographer Jake Campos and Aaron Feinberg, whose work is
Fly Fishing
The idyllic surf town of Sayulita, Mexico, will be featured in the fall issue
of Mountain Outlaw. This photo shows the view from El Palacio, arguably
one of the town’s finest beachside rentals. Outlaw Partners Photo
|
Eric Ladd, Publisher
[email protected]
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Mountain
9
from the editor
Eventually Emily put away her ski boots and went climbing. Gallatin
Canyon, Montana. Photo by Ryan Day Thompson
the Details
The magic light hits us at 10,000 feet on Mount Moran,
and the world glows pink.
It’s 6 a.m., and this is why I’m alive: slogging through the
rain with a heavy pack, dragging my ski gear through the
mud and over snowdrifts long after the resorts are closed,
finding crisp claw-marks of fresh grizzly tracks in the
snow.
The sun rises over the Gros Ventre Range, hitting Jackson
Lake 3,000 feet below. Refracting off the water, its blinding rays cast angular shadows. In my periphery, I see
ancient, dark metamorphosed Teton rock, spring snow
lapping its edges, our boot prints, and gnarled alpine trees.
In writing and editing you must choose these salient
details, and eliminate the rest.
A few have stuck with me from this magazine: the way Sasha Hyland moves in concert with her horse; Kurt Erickson’s mouthwatering descriptions of Washington-grown
wines; and the look on 21-year-old Kylee Karschner’s face,
which speaks of determination and resilience as a truck
mechanic in the Bakken oilfields.
With such breadth, we’d better focus on the details. We
hope some of them strike you in the same way.
10 Mountain
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Emily Stifler, Managing Editor
[email protected]
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featured contributors
Allan
Busby
Feinberg
Ashley Allan is a holistic health coach,
board certified by the American Association
of Drugless Practitioners. Born in Canada,
Allan runs her practice, Ashley Health
Coach, in Bozeman, where she lives with
her fiancée and two dogs.
Reinhold
Tyler Busby was born in Gallup, New
Mexico and raised in the Bay Area,
California. Drawn to the serenity of
natural landscapes, Busby received a
B.A. in Photography from Montana State
University and currently lives in Big Sky,
Montana. Find more of Busby’s work at
tylerbusbyphotography.com.
Aaron Feinberg is no stranger to seeing and capturing the beauty and natural
movement of life. What started as a ski
bum hobby of photographing friends in
Utah’s Wasatch Mountains has developed
into a world-class, award-winning fine art
portfolio.
Erik Reinhold owns and operates Sizzlestick Welding, LLC in Gallatin Gateway,
Montana, where he specializes in ornamental and structural metalwork.
Kristen Pope is a writer and environmental educator who lives in Jackson, Wyoming. The father of two exuberant boys,
ages 4 and 2, Jackson, Wyoming-resident Luke Lynch strives to pass on
his passion for high adventure in the
outdoors by including his sons in hiking, biking, skiing and other outside
pursuits. Lynch is the Wyoming State
Director of The Conservation Fund.
Pope
Lynch
Born and raised in Montana, Caleb George,
27, lives in Missoula with his springer
spaniel, Trotter. George works six months
of the year as a river ranger on the Middle
Fork of the Salmon, and of the other six
months, he says, “Well, I am still trying to
figure that out.” 12 Mountain
George
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Mountain
trailhead
30 years of wilderness
The Spanish Peaks, pictured here, are part of the 254,635-acre, wildlife-rich Lee Metcalf
Wilderness, set aside 30 years ago by Congress in honor of former Senator Jesse Metcalf.
A summer-long anniversary will include hikes, trail service projects, a signature beer, gear
giveaways, photo contests and a giant party to cap it all off. summeroflee.com
featured events
Photo by Kene SPerry
A kayaker navigates the Shoshone River canyon, west of Cody, Wyoming. PHOTO COURTESY OF GRADIENT MOUNTAIN SPORTS
Cody Wild West River Fest
August 23-24
Cody’s inaugural Wild West River Fest brings together families,
kayakers and anglers in the name of fun and education.
“Rivers provide clean drinking water, irrigation for farms that
put food on our tables, a place for us to recreate and habitat for
wildlife,” says organizer Katherine Thompson, of The Nature
Conservancy.
Activities include river races, demos, and a fly fishing competition
on the Shoshone River; a bluegrass concert at City Park; and
a fly fishing film festival at the Buffalo Bill Historical Center.
codyriverfest.com
Am/Pro Yamaha racer Jordan Ashburn of Cookville, Tennessee, navigates Big Sky XC’s infamous rock garden. Photo by Jesse Ziegler
Big Sky XC
Big Sky Resort will host the American Motorcyclist Association’s
premier off-road motorcycle race this year, August 24-25. An
endurance race on technical mountain single track with classes
ranging from youth to professional, “It’s tough to ride it fast and finish,”
said Bozeman pro rider Mark Weirich. The AMA/KENDA Big Sky Off
Road National Championships, which has a $10,000 purse, will draw
some of the country’s most talented racers. bigskyxc.com
recommended reading
Atlas of Yellowstone University of California Press, 2012
The Shoshone Sheep Eater Indians embarked on
ritualistic vision quests to Yellowstone’s geysers
and bubbling mud pots, seeking guidance from the
powerful, underwater spirits believed to be living
beneath them.
Today, visitors take a similar pilgrimage, traveling
from around the world to photograph the famous Old
Faithful geyser and swim in the warm Firehole River.
Scholars and tourists alike can now look even
deeper into the area’s hidden treasures and
14 Mountain
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storied past with the Atlas of Yellowstone, the
first comprehensive atlas of a U.S. national
park. With more than 500 maps and data
compiled by experts, it offers an in-depth
and full-color look into the area’s geography,
environment and wildlife, as well as the park’s
human history.
Compelling stories from the microscopic to the
global scale make Atlas of Yellowstone a must
read for anyone interested in this unique region.
– Maria Wyllie
the goods
Teton Valley Creamery
When renowned Dutch cheesemaker Fons Smits traveled to Teton
Valley, Idaho instead of relaxing like most tourists, he spent the
entire trip biking back roads in search of dairy farmers. Smits,
who has helped start small artisan creameries all over the U.S.,
was convinced the small pastoral valley was ripe for the craft so
renowned in Holland.
A R E F I N E D A P P R OAC H
to luxury vacation rentals
Providing premier luxury
accommodations & guest
services in Big Sky, Montana
Four years later, Teton Valley Creamery is churning out top quality
cheese, handmade with milk from independent local dairies, as well
as a line of fresh gelatos and ice cream.
This summer, head cheesemaker Lindsay Klaunig (who refined her
skills while working with Romanian gypsies, among other experts
around the world), plans to roll out several new and reworked
cheeses: Sapphire Blue, a creamy blue with a hint of pepper;
the Yellowstone, washed in beer; the Haystack, a havarti, and a
Camembert. – Molly Loomis
Available at select stores and restaurants around the
Yellowstone region – stop by the shop in Driggs, Idaho for a taste.
tetonvalleycreamery.com
Stay with us...
• Enjoy the finest selection of luxury homes,
condos and cabins that Big Sky has to offer
• Ski-in Ski-out access to Moonlight Basin &
Big Sky Resort; discounted lift tickets
• Best-in-class service provided
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• Effortless ownership: we maintain your
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• Detailed home inspection on weekly basis
• Professional & accountable housekeeping staff
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1.888.275.4439
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[email protected]
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Mountain
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the world’s only
Private Ski and Golf Community
YELLOWSTONE CLUB
BIG SKY, MONTANA
(406) 995-4900
WWW.YELLOWSTONECLUB.COM
[email protected]
WWW.DISCOVERYLANDCO.COM
Membership in the Yellowstone Club requires real estate ownership. Yellowstone Club is a secure gate guarded private community and appointments for access to view the real
estate or amenities need to be arranged in advance. This does not constitute an offer or a solicitation to residents in any state or jurisdiction in which registration requirements have
been fulfilled. Please call or email for complete
information.
16 not
Mountain
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Mountain
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outlook
T o break
a mare
Profile of a primitive hunter, teacher
Sasha Hyland with her horse, Kalida Photo by Jake Campos
By Emily Stifler
Sasha Hyland was 19 when she rescued Kalida.
“Someone had burnt her with hot rod irons – she has
those scars on her shoulder,” said Hyland, pictured on
the cover of this magazine with Kalida. “At first, nobody
could touch her. She had no flight response, just attack,
and she’d literally run people down, teeth flaring, striking with her front legs.”
The horse was 3 years old when Hyland found her at the
Shipshewana, Indiana slaughterhouse.
“There was something in her eyes,” Hyland said.
She had rescued another mare, Magic, at the same time,
who was just as apprehensive of people. To get them
used to her, Hyland would go into their pasture and
read, and after a few weeks they approached her with
curiosity.
“We started playing crazy games,” Hyland recalls. “I’d
run after them, and then turn and book it out. Both
mares would run after me and jump and kick, playing. I
18 Mountain
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would hide behind trees, and then jump out, and they’d
rear up and run away in play. It put me into the herd more
than if I was just trying to catch them.”
After two months, Hyland was able to touch Kalida,
give her treats and groom her. Within a few more
weeks, she broke the horse bareback, and now, 13
years later, she’s gentle enough for children to ride.
A self-described “angsty, troubled kid,” Hyland perhaps needed Kalida equally as much.
Originally from Toronto, she started riding at age 4
and moved to Michigan at 8. “I didn’t really get along
with kids my age, and I spent a lot of time outside.
The only connections I had were with animals and the
Earth.”
She recalls sitting on her parent’s deck at age 9, holding seed until birds would feed from her hand.
Now 32, Hyland founded the nonprofit Montana
Awareness Education and Equine Rehabilitation Association, in 2010. Through MAERA, she rehabilitates
horses, teaches archery, bowmaking and primitive
skills classes. Classes are at her barn in Emigrant,
and also in Big Sky, Belgrade and McLeod.
The horses she takes in are used for riding lessons, trail
rides, pack trips, summer camp programs, horsemanship
classes and therapy for troubled youth.
Hyland still has both mares, and Kalida is now her main
backcountry horse. Since training her for mounted archery
in 2006, Hyland has shot elk and deer from the saddle,
both with her handmade bows (also pictured on the cover)
and with a rifle.
You might say Kalida is a natural.
“Before I ever started shooting mounted archery, she loved
running with deer in Michigan,” Hyland said.
While rifle hunting near the Ellison Ranch, in the West
Boulder, Montana, last fall, Hyland dismounted on a side
hill to scope a herd of elk. She shot one, and while she
was field dressing it, Kalida took off running with the elk.
Hyland had to walk three miles back to the ranch.
Hunting from horseback is a form of camouflage,
Hyland said.
The Northwest’s largest rug gallery, offering thousands of
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Big Sky location available by appointment only.
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available by appointment
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new and antique rugs.
We buy, sell, trade, clean, appraise, repair and service new and antique rugs
“The prey’s response to another prey [animal] is different
than if I was stalking around, sending off my energy as
a predator. Horses have the ability to displace, or mask,
my predatory energy by covering it with their own prey
curiosity.”
Like a horse trained to cut cows, a hunting horse learns the
movement and behavior specific to game animals. Strategy
is just as important as speed, Hyland says, explaining that
she tries to anticipate which direction her game is going to
split by knowing the lay of the land.
She compares it to driving, watching a hawk fly alongside
the car.
“You see things while moving at the same speed of this
other animal that you would never see standing and watching it. At first it was distracting, because I got lost in the
beauty of what was happening around me.”
She doesn’t see hunting as a sport, and uses every part the
animals – from the tendons to make cordage, to brain for
tanning the hide.
“My favorite thing is the ability to get close, being connected with the Earth and seeing the beauty that surrounds.”
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Mountain
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20 Mountain
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Parts & Service Hours Mon.-Fri. 7:30-6
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outboundgallery
rebecca bredehoft
Rolf Belden paragliding over Beaver Mountain, Wyoming
rebeccabredehoft.com
22 Mountain
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brad orsted
Above: This rider had his hands full of
a feisty bronc at the Gardiner, Montana,
rodeo.
Right: A big tom cat posed for a few moments in the Wineglass area outside of
Livingston, Montana, before jumping down
to resume his role as king of the mountain.
horsefeathersphotography.com
24 Mountain
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Mountain
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reid morth
Todd Heath making turns during an
evening wake surf session on Flathead
Lake, Montana.
morthphotography.com
26 Mountain
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max Lowe
After road-tripping from Bozeman, Montana,
photographer Max Lowe found magic among the
lunacy and laughter of the 13,000 attendees at
Summer Set Music Festival, Wisconsin. Pictured
here, Kim, of the indie rock band Matt and Kim,
riles up the crowd during their set.
maxlowemedia.com
explorebigsky.com
Mountain
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jason thompson
Whit Magro nearing the top of pitch five
on Virtual Reality, a 5.13 in the Beartooth
Mountains, Wyoming.
jasonthompsonphotography.com
28 Mountain
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jason thompson
brian sorg
Up close: A dragonfly in August
at the East Gallatin Recreation
Area in Bozeman, Montana.
bsorgphoto.bigcartel.com
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tales
y
in
r
u ntingr n C o u nt
Bowh ongho
Pr
30
Mountain
photo by david reeves
explorebigsky.com
By Erik Reinhold
The August sun was in its full fury, and beads of sweat
coursed down my back.
After what seemed like miles of belly crawling and pushing my bow in front of me, I lay in a maze of sagebrush.
My hands, elbows and knees stung from a private acupuncture appointment by a covert, prickly pear cactus. I
could taste sweat.
I had spent the morning stalking a large herd of pronghorns. Now was my chance to breach their outer defenses.
With my two doe tags already filled, I had only my buck
tag left. My quarry, a couple of bucks among the herd of
does, lay before me, grazing. I rose gently to get a better
look, and before I could decide what to do next, a sentinel
doe saw me. Busted!
She snorted, alerting the group, and they loped a half mile
to private property. I followed them, walking cautiously
until I could see exactly where they were in relation to the
invisible property line – far into private.
Scanning the horizon with my binoculars, I found a new
target group: eight bachelor bucks feeding, playing and
feeling the hormones that would fuel their behavior during the fall rut. Watching this gave me hope, so I sat down
to soak up the portrait before me.
They wandered toward me and bedded within 500 yards.
Curious about the herd, they rose and raced toward the
does.
I rallied to the only cover around – a few boulders about
three feet in diameter. As I settled in, two bucks sprinted
past me, but by the time I fumbled to nock an arrow, they
were already in the next time zone.
Bewildered, I turned to discover two more bucks feeding
up over the hill. When the smaller one was about 20 yards
away, he saw me. But the larger one stood broadside, unaware. I drew my bow, calculated the yardage and released.
The buck dropped in his tracks, and triumph engulfed me.
After thanking the spectacular creature, I field dressed
him swiftly.
Trekking out, I let my mind wander over the mountains
around me, through the forests and across the high prairie.
I meditated on my next adventure, overwhelmed with appreciation for this remote country.
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Mountain
31
tales
Royal flush
The Grand Canyon at 42,000 cfs
By Caleb George
and the once-calm eddy circling under them has turned
to a microburst of wood, garbage and foam.
The river’s deafening roar against the marbled cliffs hammers my mind like a bad bottle of bourbon. My heart
skips as the sound of the water crashes against every submerged boulder, its power scouring the rocks from the
bottom of this ancient canyon.
Waves crash against the shore, their behavior more
flagrant every hour. I feel cagy, watching camp disappear
under the encroaching abyss now surging like ocean tide,
but eventually, at 1 a.m., I crawl into my sleeping bag.
At 4 a.m., I check the boats – my eighth time. They’re
dancing frantically at the end of their 20-foot bowlines,
I walk to the lower reaches of the 1,000-foot limestone
rim towering over our camp and place my hand on
its stony bosom. The rock vibrates beneath my palm,
charged by the explosions of water upstream.
I lie back down and look to the stars, the canyon walls
silhouetted above me. Weary, I try to collect my
thoughts from the days prior. I remember the feeling
of my boat falling out from under me, a 20-foot wave
smashing my chest, the brown rapids surging with power. The world becomes dark and wet. In this moment,
absorbing the chaos around me, I find peace.
High flow releases on the Colorado River
George led this high-water trip down the Grand
Canyon from November 18 - December 7, 2012. The
river level peaked at 42,000 cubic feet per second
during that time – high compared to an average
summer trip’s 8,000-12,000 cfs.
The high-flow release was part of a 16-year Bureau
of Reclamation experimental program designed to
mimic the natural flooding of the Colorado River
through Glen and Grand canyons that occurred prior
to the construction and operation of the Glen Canyon
Dam, according to the USBR website.
Top: Caleb George shot this in one of the Grand Canyon’s “Roaring ‘20s” rapids while running the river at high flow. “I can’t remember which rapid it was,” George said, “because we
were moving so fast.” Below: Launch morning at Lee’s Ferry Photos by Caleb George
32 Mountain
explorebigsky.com
The high water picks up sand stored in the river
channel and re-deposits it downstream in sandbars
and beaches. These sand features and associated
backwater can provide key fish and wildlife habitat,
potentially reduce erosion of archaeological sites,
restore and enhance riparian vegetation, increase
the size of beaches, and enhance wilderness values
along the river. – E.S.
tales
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One of the most comfortable, low profile PFDs I’ve
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its maiden voyage on a 16day Grand Canyon trip last
fall. The adjustable design
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Large pockets and durable
construction round out this
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kokatat.com
Running the Kokatat Ronin Pro life jacket through its paces in the legendary
waves of Hermit Rapid, Grand Canyon. Outlaw Partners photo
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explorebigsky.com Mountain
now
Bakken Shale
ND
MT
Williston Basin
SD
A Formation
Adapting to life in the Bakken
Photographs by Tyler Busby | Words by Joseph T. O’Connor
T h e y c o m e fo r w o r k . Wa i t r e s s e s , e x - c o n s , s t u d e n t s ,
carpenters, strippers, oilmen. They seek promise in
the Bakken, a new beginning, hope.
North Dakota, where much of the Bakken shale formation is located, ranks
lowest among U.S. states in unemployment, at 3.3 percent, and second in oil
production.
Longtime residents of Williston, Watford City, Glendive and Sidney – North
Dakota and Montana towns in the Bakken formation – stay if they can, because it’s home. However that’s become
increasingly difficult. An April 19, 2013
classified ad in the Williston Herald announced a three-bedroom home renting
for $3,500 per month.
Mountain Outlaw sent a photographer,
writer and videographer this spring to
document the good, the bad and the ugly
of an oil play, and to glean information
on how Montana should prepare for
what’s coming.
View the making of the photo essay at explorebigsky.com/bakken
P u m p j a c k e a s t o f W i l l i s t o n . The Williston Basin had 12,013 operating wells at the end of 2011, according to a
study by Kadrmas, Lee and Jackson, Inc. released in October 2012. The basin, which includes the Bakken and Three Forks formations, spans 200,000 square miles and extends into parts of Montana, South Dakota and Saskatchewan, Canada. A U.S. Geological
Survey report says there may be as many as 7.4 billion barrels of recoverable oil in the Bakken, though a 2012 Harvard Kennedy
School study estimates 206 billion, noting that U.S. oil production could eclipse Saudi Arabia’s by 2020.
explorebigsky.com
Mountain
35
A F o r m at i o n
J e ff r e y S t r a n d a n d d a u g h t e r C h y l e r . Williston native and farmer Jeffrey Strand, 35, waits for his wife
with daughter Chyler, 4, at the city’s Amtrak station south of downtown. Strand, an electrician on the side in winter, started with
Triangle Electric, Inc. in 1998 alongside 15 colleagues. Now, the company often has more than 300 contracted employees during a
given week. “You used to know everybody driving by,” Strand said. “Now you just share the road with trucks.” In 2011, Williston’s
Amtrak station saw 29,920 boardings. In 2012, that number jumped to 54,324.
36 Mountain
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A F o r m at i o n
W e s l e y M o r g a n . Morgan, 49,
was caught in a water pipe explosion in
July 2012, while working as a pipe cleaner
for Quail Tools. He lost hearing in his
right ear, but his workman’s comp doctor
told him it was allergies. When Morgan returned to work, he vomited from
vertigo. Quail told him they had to let
him go. While waiting for his new workman’s comp claim to go to court the last
year, Morgan has been living in his truck,
receiving $200 per month in food stamps.
His mother, who is on social security back
home in Polson, Montana, pays his cell
phone bill.
“Sometimes they
realize the [oil fields]
are a little rougher
than they expected. So,
they realize it’s easier
to go home.”
H o m e l e s s . A man sleeps outside the Salvation
Army Church at 15 Main Street in downtown Williston. Although many workers pull six-figure salaries, and Wal-Mart starting wages are $17 per hour,
housing is scarce, and prices are high and rising. The
Salvation Army is offering money toward one-way
bus and train tickets out of the city for those unable
to find housing. “Sometimes they realize the [oil
fields] are a little rougher than they expected,” said
Captain Joshua Stansbury, who along with his wife
Rhegan are pastors and administrators at the Salvation Army’s Williston branch. “So, they realize it’s
easier to go home.”
explorebigsky.com
Mountain
37
A F o r m at i o n
K y l e H u ff m a n . Originally
from Santa Rosa, California, Huffman, 25, arrived in the Bakken in
2011 and found a job on one of the
hundreds of construction sites in
the area. This April, Huffman was
living with his girlfriend in Fairview, Montana. His car had broken
down and two friends with a van
picked him up and brought him to
their lot at the Buffalo Trails R.V.
Park on the north end of Williston.
The frigid North Dakota winters
have taken their toll on his body,
Huffman says. “I feel like I’ve aged
10 years.” But he knows the value
of hard work. “Dad raised me old
school. We’re in the Bakken [and]
you gotta get everything yourself.
It’s how it is.”
O n Ma y 5 , t h e r e
were 618 job
openings for
t r a c t o r -t r a i l e r
drivers, more
than any other
industry in
Williston.
G l e n H o n g . Since 2009,
Hong has driven his 379 Peterbilt
oil tanker truck 700 miles from his
home in Hamilton, Montana, to
Williston, North Dakota, to work.
On his three-week shifts, he picks
up 220 barrels of crude and deposits
them into storage tanks around the
Bakken. On May 5, there were 618
job openings for tractor-trailer drivers, more than any other industry in
Williston. On one day in 2011, the
North Dakota Department of Transportation recorded 2,600 semis on
Highway 85 between Williston and
nearby Watford City.
38 Mountain
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A F o r m at i o n
K y l e e Ka r s c h n e r . Karschner, 21, arrived in Williston from Wellsboro, Pennsylvania on January 31. She was hired
as a lab technician to collect water samples for a chemical company, but is now a mechanic for medium duty trucks and semis.
She pays $1,100 in monthly rent for a 10x10 room in a house with three guys. She says the toughest part about being a
woman in the oil patch is finding a good job with good pay. “Around here we’re not treated the same at entry-level positions.”
And, she adds, “Don’t be by yourself after dark.” Reported male to female ratios in Williston range from 50-1, to 87-1.
explorebigsky.com
Mountain
39
A F o r m at i o n
Williston, April 20, 2013.
The intersection of Main and Broadway
in downtown Williston is reminiscent of
when the town was founded in 1887, save
for the stoplights and major population
increase. The 2000 census recorded 12,512
residents, the 2010 census, 14,716. But with
temporary workers not registering vehicles
or claiming residency, some estimates push
those numbers as high as 80,000. This soaring growth has caused widespread increase
in crime. From 2009 to 2010, calls to the
Williston Police Department increased by
250 percent.
G r a i n e l e v a t o r , r a i l r o a d t a n k c a r . This defunct grain elevator near downtown Williston once held
up to 100,000 bushels of grain, while tank cars can carry 34,500 gallons of crude. Drillers first struck oil in North Dakota on
Clarence Iverson’s farm near Tioga on April 4, 1951, spurring the first oil boom in the Bakken. Montana hit oil that July. In
the 1980s, oil boomed again. Then in 2004, with developments in hydraulic fracturing, wells began producing black gold in
unprecedented amounts: the U.S. Energy Information Administration reports that in January 2013, 673,000 barrels of oil per
day were extracted from the Bakken. According to a University of North Dakota study, amounts will peak at 1,200,000 bbl/d
in 2022.
40 Mountain
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A F o r m at i o n
K e n R e d m a n . Redman gazes through his kitchen window in Crane, Montana, between Glendive and Sidney, whose
schools are reportedly bursting at the seams. Redman, 54, grew up farming and ranching in Montana, and has an agriculture
degree from Montana State University-Bozeman and a M.A. from Colorado State University, but with a wife and three kids,
he had to put food on the table. In agriculture, he says, “You break even if you do well.” In 2005, he became a directional
oil driller with Baker Hughes. “The change is going to happen [in Montana]. How can we make it best for us?” The boom is
over, Redman adds, indicating that oil-producing areas around the Bakken are seeing sustained growth: The formation could
produce oil for the next 40 years.
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Mountain
41
regional
Finding Pumpkin
Creek
My grandmother’s homestead
T
he big blue sky stretched in front
of my windshield as I squinted
through a graveyard of bugs on the
glass. The sage and grass-covered hills
looked vaguely familiar.
A hodgepodge of clues led me to this
spot 24 miles from pavement and
1,086 miles from my Seattle home,
alone but for the company of my little
brown dog, Maile. Unsure of exactly
where I was, I held the old, curling
photo against the windshield and
scanned the green and brown landscape, hoping to turn the black and
white into a real place where people
lived and little girls grew up.
My grandma, Corma, and her
younger sister Lorna were raised in
eastern Montana, on a homestead
along Pumpkin Creek from 1916
until about 1925. Through the colorful, textured stories she told me, I’ve
often felt I might have lived there too.
Grandma told of riding horseback
to a one-room schoolhouse at age 7,
holding the reins while her 5-yearold sister held on behind. She spoke
By Teresa Bruffey
of little girls whose friends included
a pet eagle, a dog, a goldfish and the
horse; of waiting behind the house
late at night for their father to return
from his postal route; and of watching their mother beat a fox to death
with a broom for sneaking into the
henhouse.
The homestead was harsh and magical, with few limits, Grandma said.
There, little girls grew up tough,
smart and graceful among hardworking people who had little extra but
always offered a helping hand.
When Grandma passed away in the
fall of 2011, my world became too silent. The need to find Pumpkin Creek
– the one place that always remained
crisp in her 97-year-old memory –
became unrelenting.
She had talked of Miles City, so I
knew to look on the eastern side of
the 147,000-square-mile state. On
the Bureau of Land Management’s
online archives, I found the grant
issued to my great grandparents: Section 8 Township-2-South Range-48-
East of the Montana Prime Meridian.
Then, at Grandma’s memorial, my
great aunt Lorna said in a moment
of clarity, “Broadus. Our place was
60 miles one way or another from
Broadus.”
Going through my grandmother’s
belongings after she passed away,
my mother and I found faded photographs of the sisters as children
at Pumpkin Creek, and others of
them as young women in polyester
pantsuits on a journey from Seattle
to see the homestead for the last time
in the 1970s. Finding the homestead
felt like a way to hold onto her a
little longer.
Top: The author compares an old family photograph to the eastern Montana landscape. Right: Corma and her younger sister Lorna on their
homestead along Pumpkin Creek. Photos courtesy of Teresa Bruffey
42 Mountain
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M
y earlier visits to Montana had
been scattered and brief. Even
so, it struck me as the kind of place
where the right things just happen – those being kindness toward
others, connection to the land, and
finding your way. So, photos in hand,
I pointed my truck east from Seattle
and believed.
Near twilight, knowing I was getting
close but still unsure how to pinpoint
my destination, I stopped at a service
station in Ashland, off Highway 212.
There, I found a map on the wall that
showed Montana broken into neat
squares. Township 2 was at the top,
Range-48-East halfway down its side,
Section 8, smack dab in the middle.
While the service station didn’t have
maps to take, I met an off-duty ranger
a couple doors down who offered me
one. Studying the patchwork of forest
service land and ranchland, I found
Grandma’s section some 40 miles
northeast of Ashland, accessible via
double-track, dirt roads.
“Those roads are rough,” the ranger
said. “If it rains, don’t drive them –
you’ll get stuck. Ask a rancher tomorrow. He’ll know what goes.”
Driving out of town, I pitched my
tent at the Holiday Campground.
As the sun dropped low, I rehearsed
what I might say to no-time-forsmall-talk ranchers the next day.
These were people who woke up
early, brewed coffee and set off at
dawn for a long day’s work. Why
would they help a strange, city girl?
Around 10 a.m. the next morning I
pulled into the first ranch. A woman
was bent over feeding chickens from a
bucket. Geraniums lined the front of
the house.
I don’t know if I even introduced
myself before the words, “Do you
know where this is?” tumbled from
my mouth, and I found myself holding out the photo.
Bruffey recreates a photograph of her grandmother on the homestead in the 1970s.
“I’m Dolores,” she said. “Would you
like some coffee?”
His father, John, was busy reuniting a cow with her misguided calf,
he said, then invited me inside.
Together, we pored over a mapping
program they used to keep track of
their acreage and cattle.
Inside, she pulled out annals of local
heritage, maps and phone books. She
didn’t know exactly how to get to
Section 8, but she was sure the family down the way
would. A few unanThese were people who
swered phone calls
woke up early, brewed
later, she sent me off
coffee and set off at
with directions to
the Lammis’ house.
dawn for a long day’s
“Check back if you
have any trouble,”
she said.
work. Why would they
help a strange, city girl?
At the end of a long, dusty drive, I
parked by a well-kept ranch house. A
pile of puppies bumbled toward me,
followed by a young man with tan lines
visible under his clean white t-shirt and
spurs on his work boots.
Introducing himself, Justin told me
that Dolores had called, and he was
expecting me.
“Dick Gaskill.
He’s who you
need to talk
to,” he said.
“He grew up
here, he knows
everybody,
and knows this
land.”
John returned
and asked about my search, my
family, and said wasn’t that
amazing I’d come back to find my
grandma’s place. Father and son
deliberated on how to help. More
calls were made, and since Dick
didn’t answer, they sent me off
with a handshake, a wish of luck
and directions.
explorebigsky.com
Mountain
43
regional
Dick’s property was quiet – no cows or traffic on the dirt road
and no other houses nearby. It was hard not to feel city paranoia
someplace so still. A dog barked, and before I could knock, a
woman opened the door. She, too, knew I was coming.
“Dick should be home in the next 30 minutes for supper,” she
said. “He’s out mending fences.”
She invited me in and we talked about the local news and
who’d been doing what. She offered me tea and asked about
my family as if they might’ve been distant kin. She wasn’t
from the area but had moved to the ranch after marrying Dick,
far from her family and the nearest neighbor. I thought of my
great grandmother raising two girls while her husband left for
his postal route.
The remains of the Pumpkin Creek homestead.
I showed him the photos. “Do you know this place?” I
asked.
“I can take ya there right now,” he said.
A tall, broad man with blue jeans and a big hat walked through
the door, his personality taking up nearly as much space as his
imposing physical size.
“Well, I’ll be!” Dick said with a smile, slapping his knee when
I told him my story.
Supper still in the oven, we took off from the house,
dust plumes rising behind our trucks. Before I could process what was happening, we turned off the road onto a
rough track heading straight for an old, dilapidated log
structure that mirrored my photos, only with the roofs
fallen in.
I’d found Pumpkin Creek.
Wildflowers bloomed yellow and violet on the surrounding fields. A gentle northeastern wind blew over
the ridge, drawing an invisible line from one end of the
homestead to the other.
I climbed out of my truck and walked through the grass.
In the afternoon light, the golden hills above the old
buildings glowed like velvet under candlelight. I wanted
to absorb every part of the place – the way it smelled and
sounded and felt.
Had I only ever seen those black and white photos, I
wouldn’t have known the soft hues of that rough land:
the stubby green pines, the blue-grey cottonwoods along
the dry creek bed and the ever-present hum of the crickets. The photo left out the crackle of dried tree branches
and the kindness shared between neighbors.
Grandma is still gone. I didn’t find her there, as I secretly hoped. But with help from a few friendly strangers, I found an unexpected part of her among the sage
and grass at Pumpkin Creek, a place more vibrant and
beautiful than I could have imagined.
44 Mountain
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Mountain
45
environment
Anglers float the Yellowstone River, the main Dome
Mountain Ranch lodge behind them. Photos by J.B. Klyap
Dome Mountain Ranch
• A vital refuge on the Yellowstone River •
By Tyler Allen
essential winter range for the northern Yellowstone
elk herd.
The Yellowstone River spills out of the park near its northern entrance in Gardiner, Montana, wending through the
Gardiner Basin and tumbling into the gorge of Yankee Jim
Canyon four miles downstream. Its tumult slows as it leaves
the canyon and courses through a valley named “Paradise.”
Bounded by the Absaroka Mountains to the east and
Gallatin Range in the west, Paradise Valley provides
46 Mountain
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In the southeast corner, at the heart of the herd’s yearly
migration from the park, sits the 5,366-acre Dome
Mountain Ranch. Its western edge carved by the river,
the property spreads eastward into the Absaroka foothills, where it abuts state and federal lands. A hunting
and fishing outfitter with 30 head of horses, the ranch
has been featured on The Travel Channel, Elk
Country Journal and Cabela’s
Outdoor Adventures.
J.B., also a longtime hunter and
guide, values “authentic, traditional and fair chase” hunts.
Montana Fish, Wildlife and
Parks recognized the area’s
significance three decades ago
and in 1986 began purchasing
adjacent land for the 4,680acre Dome Mountain Wildlife
Management Area. The ranch
occupies the northern flanks of
the pyramid-shaped 8,596-foot
Dome Mountain, and the WMA
extends northeast to Dailey
Lake.
The lower reaches of the habitat
are home to native grasses,
primarily bluebunch wheatgrass
and Idaho fescue, interspersed conifer
stands, providing forage and cover for
lactating cow elk in late spring and
early summer. Bulls have lower nutritional needs and inhabit the higher
elevations, finding shelter in large
stands of lodgepole pine.
While the ranch grows hay to feed
stock, most of the acreage remains in
its natural state.
“Dome Mountain Ranch is as
heavily used by the elk herd as the
[WMA] is,” said Karen Loveless,
Livingston Area Montana Fish,
Wildlife and Parks Wildlife Biologist. “It’s critical to the herd’s future
to have access to that winter range.”
With the ranch now for sale, Loveless is uncertain about the future.
The northern Yellowstone elk herd’s
population has declined from 19,000
in 1994, to the 3,915 counted by a
cooperative FWP and National Park
Service aerial survey in February
2013. The decline resulted from
harvest, predation and environmental factors such as drought, Loveless
said.
“This year (2013), 77 percent of the
herd was in Montana, and it’s been an
increasing trend since 2005,” she said.
“It’s pretty easy to book an elk
hunt where they take you out on
an ATV and drop you off, but
we like giving [clients] the whole
experience,” he said, explaining
that clients mount the horses
before first light, spending the
entire day on horseback or foot.
Archery hunters ride on public lands above the ranch.
Previously, thousands of elk wintered
in the Lamar Valley and Blacktail
Plateau in Yellowstone Park. Winter
conditions there are harsher than the
lower elevation Paradise Valley, Loveless said, and predation by wolves,
bears and mountain lions is likely
higher in the park.
Fred Smith has owned Dome Mountain Ranch since 1996, when he
bought four adjoining parcels including the Gray’s cattle operation east of
the river. The land he bought from
Max Chase on the west side included a
lodge built in 1959, and home to a filling station, restaurant, gambling hall
and outfitting business over the years.
“I looked all over the Rockies for about
three years,” said Smith, who lives in
Baltimore, Maryland. “I saw Paradise
Valley and that was it.”
He hired J.B. Klyap and his wife
Lennae, former fishing guides on the
Smith River, to manage the lodge and
cabins, “But one thing led to another,”
J.B. recalled. Now the Klyaps take
care of ranch operations year round:
guiding, haying the fields, tending
the horses, and maintaining the lodge,
guest cabins, fences and machinery.
“It’s not a 9-to-5 job,” J.B. says. “It’s a
lifestyle.”
“Positive energy is infectious,
and that’s really what made us,”
said J.B., who believes hiring
honest, hard-working guides is
the secret to success. “I always
tell guides, ‘If you’re not bleeding, sweating or puking, you’re not
hunting elk.’”
The 4.5 miles of river fronting Dome
Mountain Ranch are home to brown,
rainbow and native Yellowstone cutthroat trout. Its abundant natural vegetation creates ideal trout habitat, providing
shade that keeps the water cooler.
“It’s still what a trout stream should look
like,” says Kurt Dehmer, one of the
ranch’s guides.
High above its east bank, the main
ranch house deck faces southwest and
overlooks the valley, the broad summit
of 10,969-foot Electric Peak dominating
the view in the distance.
This landscape has been a successful
cooperative public-private conservation effort, and Smith is optimistic the
ranch will attract an individual or group
dedicated to preserving it.
“I hope the next owner will not develop
the land and keep it as a legacy as long as
they’re able to enjoy it,” he said.
Tyler Allen is a staff writer for Mountain
Outlaw magazine. As of press time,
May 2013, Dome Mountain Ranch
was listed through Fay Ranches, a
real estate firm based in Bozeman,
Montana.
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Mountain
47
THE WEST MAY BE WILD,
but it’s not unci viliz ed
Eye in the Sky Photography
RAINBOW RANCH LODGE
rainbowranchbigsky.com • 1.800.937.4132
Five miles south of Big Sky entrance on Hwy 191
Pizza • Pasta • Salad
Beer • Wine • Cocktails
Open 7 days a week
Dine-In, Take-Out
Located adjacent to Lone Peak Cinema in Big Sky’s Town Center
50 Ousel Falls Road Big Sky
48 Mountain
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(406) 995-7175
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science
Ghosts
in the
Rockies
Wolverines may be listed as threatened species
By Sean Forbes
As difficult as it might be to chase Bigfoot through the woods,
searching for Gulo gulo – more commonly known as a wolverine – might actually be a bigger challenge in the higher elevation rock, snow and ice of the Northern Rockies.
The picture emerging from a new study – led by Dr. Robert
Inman, Director of the Wildlife Conservation Society’s Greater
Yellowstone Wolverine Program in Ennis, Montana – paints
wolverines as solitary travelers patrolling territories between
300-750 square miles, hunting, scavenging and caching the
leftovers in nature’s refrigerator along the way.
The first telemetry study of wolverines in the Greater Yellowstone, the decade-long WCS research focused on the
Madison Range between the Spanish Peaks and Hebgen Lake,
the Gravelly Range, the Centennial Mountains and south into
Grand Teton National Park. Capturing 40 animals with the use
of about 100 trap sites, Inman was looking for “everything” –
their food habits, home range size, habitat use, survival rates,
causes of mortality, reproductive rates and den sites.
What he found was a portrait of a unique and uncommon
creature.
“[They’re] basically born wearing snow shoes,” Inman said,
explaining that the 20- to 30- pound animals have paws four
inches wide and up to six inches long. This allows them to
travel efficiently in rugged, mountainous terrain, particularly
in deep snow.
One study subject known as M304 traveled from Grand Teton
to Pocatello, Idaho, and back in a week, and a short time later
made the roundtrip to Gardiner, Montana.
PHOTO BY LARRY MASTERS
“We were sitting there at the computer, we open up the map
that has the points on there, and our jaws dropped,” Inman
said. “It really opened our eyes to, holy cow, these animals are
capable of moving incredible distances over short periods of
time, especially young dispersing individuals.”
The researchers did all the capture work during winter, Inman
said, because “if we put baits out in the summer trying to catch
wolverines, we’d catch as many bears as anything else.”
Yet even during warmer seasons, wolverines, the
largest members of the weasel family, remain elusive. “People hardly ever see wolverines even though
they’re around. When there [are] five of them in the
entire Madison Range, you can begin to see why that’s
the case. The odds of running into one are slim to
none.”
Those odds are largely responsible for the numerous
petitions submitted to the U.S. Fish and Wildlife
Service in the last 19 years seeking protection for
wolverines, which in turn have raised the demand
for information and prompted studies like Inman’s.
The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service announced on February 1, 2013, that it was seeking feedback on a proposal to
protect the wolverine as a threatened species under the
Endangered Species Act. The agency received 180,128
public comments on the proposed listing, according to an
official at the Montana USFWS Field Station.
With Inman’s effort and the listing process wrapping up,
biology is supporting the expectation that the animals
will be listed – but perhaps not for reasons one would
expect.
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CAUSE FOR CONCERN
Like many other species considered predators around the turn
of the 20th century, wolverines were nearly eliminated from
the Lower 48 by poisoning practices common at the time.
Recovering remarkably well – thanks in part to receiving
furbearer status with harvest regulations in 1978 – wolverines
again occupy much of their historic terrain in the northern
Rockies.
Despite population estimates for some of the study’s mountain ranges falling between five and 15 individuals, wolverines have generally survived their conflict with humans.
“It’s important to point out that the biology suggests that
number is probably the same as it was 500 years ago,” Inman
said.
Retrieving a wolverine killed by an avalanche Photo by Forrest McCarthy
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After floundering through chest-deep snow to gather data on
animals that can be hard to find even while wearing radio collars, Inman and his co-workers in the WCS study found their
most troubling characteristic, given current climate trends,
was just how well adapted wolverines are for cold temperatures and snow.
Wolverines today inhabit a desolate, delicate niche where
heavy snow packs persist well into spring – places like Canada,
Alaska, the Cascade Mountains of Washington and Oregon,
and the Northern Rockies. Warming temperatures could force
the animals into more fierce competition with insects and
bacteria for food and also jeopardize their reproduction cycle,
in which females deliver one to two kits every other year in a
den beneath boulders, logs and a blanket of snow.
No one can say for certain what would happen without the
protection of winter – for food or young – but an informational page on the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service’s website sums
up the issue: “Climate warming over the next century is likely
to significantly reduce wolverine habitat, to the point where
persistence of wolverines in the contiguous United States,
without intervention, is in doubt.”
WHAT’S NEXT?
Assuming wolverines will be protected under the U.S.
Endangered Species Act, and that the climate will remain a
contentious issue, Inman’s work will be essential in helping
define what comes next.
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Bozeman, MT
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In 2004 and 2008, for example, his work was cited in the creation of management units for the Montana trapping season.
“A lot of [our changes have] been based on research, and the
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most recent stuff was changed based on his work, in terms
of identifying… how many animals and what harvest rates
should be,” said Brian Giddings, Montana Fish, Wildlife and
Parks Furbearer Coordinator.
Federal Endangered Species Act protection would eliminate
the trapping season, and MFWP on May 6, 2013 sent a letter to
the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service in opposition to the listing.
Noting that wolverine populations have expanded over the
past 50 years, and that there is no imminent threat, FWP
maintained the animals do not meet the criteria for listing
under the ESA.
Dr. Robert Inman conducting a telemetry study in the Spanish Peaks
Photo by Tony MCCUE
“It’s been the most successful model for reestablishing populations and managing wildlife anywhere in the world,” he said.
The WCS study also suggested other options including
continued population monitoring, maintaining connective
corridors between higher-elevation habitats, and reintroducing the species to the mountains of Colorado.
Having revived more prominent game such as whitetail deer,
black bear and wild turkey, the expansion of that system – to
include other gear like tents and packs – could have the same
beneficial effect on non-game species.
With the details still to be formed, Inman addressed the issue
of funding through the example of the Pittman-Robertson
Act – which puts money generated through the sale of firearms and archery equipment into a state coffer designated for
conservation projects.
Sean Forbes is a freelance writer based in Bozeman, Montana,
where chasing stories only occasionally gets in the way of playing
outside. Dr. Robert Inman is continuing to research wolverines,
now at the Craighead Institute in Bozeman.
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A compass
for life
A n gler - c o n servat i o n i st
Cr a i g M athews
by Emily Stifler
52
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CraigMountain
fishing the Madison River near his home
in the southern Madison Valley
Photo by Max Lowe
your
gym
A Tenkara setup, pictured here, requires no reel – only a collapsible rod, a line, tippet and a few flies.
Designed 600 years ago in Japan by market fishermen in mountain streams, it’s simple, effective
and relatively inexpensive, says Craig, whose book on the subject, co-written with Yvon Chouinard, is
forthcoming. “[It’s the easiest] way for anyone to master fly fishing… It’s going to be the salvation of
fly fishing, get young kids into the sport.” Photo by Max Lowe
As a cop in Grand Haven, Michigan, in
the late 1970s, Craig Mathews liked the
night shift.
“I really enjoyed getting out of a police
car, sneaking around, and trying to catch
people in the act of burglary,” he recalls
of his nine years with the department.
“There’s a little bit of a danger buzz
there. I fill that now by climbing around
in weird places trying to find wild trout
and wildlife like elk and mountain goats.
I find myself hanging off a cliff quite often in places where I say, ‘you shouldn’t
be here.’”
“I don’t know anybody with more
knowledge, a finer fly caster, a better
fisherman,” said Ken Barrett, Campaign Manager for the Yellowstone Park
Foundation Native Fish Conservation
Program. “Craig is the consummate
professional.”
Through their work with environmental nonprofits, river access and wildlife
projects in Montana and the Greater Yellowstone over the last three decades, the
Mathews have changed the landscape of
conservation in the Northern Rockies.
At 64, Craig has thick, silver hair, a
disarming smile and a soft, unfettered
baritone. Together with his wife Jackie,
he owns the renowned fly shop and
outfitting business in West Yellowstone,
Montana, Blue Ribbon Flies.
They’ve also influenced conservation
philosophy worldwide: In 2001, Craig
worked with Yvon Chouinard, founder
of the Ventura, California-based clothing
company Patagonia, to start 1% for the
Planet, a nonprofit that’s helped businesses donate more than $100 million to
environmental causes.
Just down the road, the Madison River
and Yellowstone National Park draw
anglers from around the world. Craig,
primarily a wade fisherman, has fished
these waters for 45 years.
In this partnership, Jackie is behind the
scenes, and Craig is the drumbeater. And
although not a household name across
America, he is an icon among trout
fishermen.
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POLICE CHIEF
When he wasn’t working the midnight shift, Craig spent
winter nights in Michigan tying flies – some for himself,
and some for the southwest Montana fishing luminary Bud
Lilly, who ran a shop out of West Yellowstone.
view an interview with craig mathews
in his shop, blue ribbon flies, at
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One such evening, Jackie, a police dispatcher, decided she’d
had enough. “You know what?” she said. “We’re moving to
Yellowstone.”
a mobile home sight unseen, and in early 1979 packed up
their daughters, Kelly and Dana, 7 and 2, and moved to
Montana planning to stay a year.
Craig had met Lilly during a fishing trip in the early 1970s,
and he and Jackie began vacationing in West in fall 1977. Tired
of the gray Michigan winters, Jackie picked up the phone and
called the West Yellowstone police station.
The police chief retired two weeks later, and Craig took
over.
“I thought she was kidding, there’s no way she’s talking to
anybody,” Craig recalls.
But the head dispatcher hired her on the spot. “It’d have to be a
package deal,” Jackie said, and passed the phone to Craig.
Two days later they flew into Bozeman, drove to West,
interviewed, and Craig got a job as an officer. They bought
“This town was nuts back then, totally wide open,” he
says, referring to the aftermath of a July 4 Hells Angels riot
in the late 1970s. Since the jail only had three cells, they
“chained guys to trees overnight [during summer concerts],
so the judge could see them in the morning… We’d have
cops feeding them and giving them water all night long.”
Jackie tells it a bit differently, having brought prisoners
home to feed them.
The first year, Craig picked up work as a fishing guide for
Lilly. The next, he opened a wholesale fly tying operation,
employing disabled fly tiers. In 1982, they bagged wholesale and went retail.
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Craig learned to hunt and fish as a boy at his family’s summer home on Silver Lake, in western Michigan. He caught
his first trout on a fly in a small stream called Hunter’s
Creek.
“I was intrigued with the materials, and with trout – where
they live and how to fish for them.” He tied his first fly
with a seagull feather.
That fascination grew, and through Blue Ribbon, Craig
developed dozens of fly patterns and introduced several fly
tying materials now popular in the U.S.
Walk into the shop, and the first thing you see is a stuffed
leopard, which a former Blue Ribbon client shot in Somalia, in 1962. Turn right, and you’ll see the long, glass front
counter, where you’ll likely find floor manager Robert
“Bucky” McCormick. Above him are a mounted elk and
caribou, shot by Jackie and Craig respectively.
B I G S K Y C L A S S I C A L M U S I C F E S T I VA L
August 9-11, 2013
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Craig and Jackie Mathews have received a number of awards for their environmental work, among
them the Protector of Yellowstone Award, the Nature Conservancy Award, the Greater Yellowstone
Coalition Business Award, the Federation of Fly Fishers Lee Wulff Award, Fly, Rod and Reel’s Angler of
the Year. Photo by Chris Davis
In the back, Jackie stands by the large,
freestanding display case lined with bins
of flies, taking phone orders, booking
trips and ensuring every feather is in a
row. In the center of it all is Craig’s fly
tying desk, surrounded by 30 years of
keepsakes.
There, a wooden trout hangs on a ribbon
from a Telly Award figurine – Craig has
won four for instructional DVDs he
narrated and co-produced. Next to them
is a bobble head of St. Louis Rams coach
Jeff Fisher, a frequent customer. Several
of the books Craig has authored and coauthored are displayed, among them Fly
Patterns of Yellowstone, volumes 1 and
2, and Western Fly Fishing Strategies.
From this perch, he ties around 12,000
flies a year and greets customers.
“[Craig is] a great people person,” says
Chouinard, who met Craig at Blue Ribbon about 15 years ago. “The success of
his shop is dependent on him being there
and talking fishing with his customers.”
In addition to Chouinard, Craig is a
friend to President Jimmy Carter, former
news anchors Tom Brokaw and Dan
Rather, and media mogul and environmental tycoon Ted Turner. Craig counts
these heavyweights as influences, but
also “nearly everybody that walks
through that door,” he says, pointing at
the entrance to his shop.
Through Blue Ribbon,
Craig developed dozens of
fly patterns including the
Sparkle Dun, X-Caddis and
Iris Caddis, Nature Stone
Nymphs and Bonefish
Bitters. Blue Ribbon also
introduced popular fly
tying materials to the U.S.
like cul de canard (CDC),
grouse skins and zelon,
and was one of the pioneers of saltwater fly fishing for the elusive permit
fish in Mexico and Belize.
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As an outfitter, Blue Ribbon employs 16 guides in high summer.
“When they walk through the door, I
know,” said Craig, who often hires on
instinct. “I want guides that are teachers who live and breathe and bleed
fly fishing, from the history to the
entomology to the fly patterns.”
West Yellowstone native Cam Coffin has worked there since 1989. “I
wouldn’t have been here that long
if I didn’t like it and didn’t like the
people I work for,” said Coffin, who
guides on the Madison, Gallatin, in
Yellowstone and Alaska during the
summer, and in Belize and Mexico in
winter. “Craig, Jackie, all the guides
here are wonderful. It’s like a dysfunctional little family.”
Tommy Bradford, a client from North
Carolina, says this sense of community sets Blue Ribbon apart. “They
remember you as you come back each
season and don’t treat you as a tourist,
but as one of their own.”
GOOD BUSINESS
Fishing and conservation are inextricably woven into the Mathews’ lives.
“Conservation is the whole fabric, the
whole picture. It’s why we’re here. It’s
why Yellowstone [exists],” Craig said.
“When you live in this country,
particularly in southwest Montana,
Left to right: Craig Mathews, 1% for the Planet CEO Terry Kellogg, Patagonia founder Yvon
Chouinard and former NBC Nightly News anchor, Tom Brokaw. Mathews and Chouinard started
1% in 2001, and it has since raised more than $100 million for environmental causes. Here, they
celebrate the coalition’s 1,000-member mark in 2009. Photo courtesy of 1% for the Planet
your life becomes the out of doors,
wildlife. [For me], it’s wild trout,
clean air, clean water. If you’re here
just to make a living and suck this
place for every penny it’s worth, then
you shouldn’t be here.”
Blue Ribbon has always given at least
1 percent of its annual sales to grassroots environmental causes. It wasn’t
always easy.
“When we were going to write the
first check, [Jackie] and I were having
this huge argument,” he recalled at
Gateway Businesses for the Park
Gateway Businesses for the Park, launched in May, gives businesses near
Yellowstone a venue to give back to the park they depend on.
“It puts them on the Yellowstone Park team,” said Karen Bates Kress,
Executive Director for Yellowstone Park Foundation, the park’s official
fundraising partner.
Proceeds go to the foundation, which in turn funds strategic initiatives related to visitor
experience, wildlife, wilderness, cultural treasures, heritage, future stewards and environmental efforts. forthepark.org
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a 1% for the Planet event years later.
“She said, ‘We can’t afford it.’ I said,
‘We can’t afford not to.’”
As founding board members of the
Yellowstone Park Foundation in
1997, the Mathews helped build the
organization that is now the park’s
official fundraising partner. During
their eight years on the board, they
were instrumental in fundraising for
the new Old Faithful Visitors Center,
completed in 2010. Those years also
sculpted them.
“When I drive into the park and see
a successful fishery program, bear
study, or the bear ranger program,
and I can say, ‘I was part of that,’ it
feels good, especially when [our]
business is thriving because of it,”
Craig said.
The Mathews have also served on the
Montana Nature Conservancy and
Montana Trout Foundation boards,
and currently sit on the Trout Unlimited Stewardship
Directors Council.
“My grandfather always said you’ve got to give back
to whatever helps your success in business,” Craig
said. “You give, and then you give more, until it really
hurts. That philosophy stuck with me.”
Some of their work has been controversial – Jackie,
for example, advocated in Washington D.C. against
snowmobile use in Yellowstone. “It’s what you do if
you really believe in something,” she said. “You make a
stand, stick with your guns and you do it.”
your home
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It pays dividends: Blue Ribbon’s sales doubled in the
five years after Craig co-founded 1% for the Planet.
“The thing that Craig has had from the very beginning
is an understanding that the basis of his success in this
business – and his family’s – is the resource,” said Barrett, who also hosted the nationally aired hunting and
fishing show, Life in the Open. “He is the quintessential angler-conservationist – the best of his generation
in the Northern Rockies.”
1% FOR THE PLANET
Although Blue Ribbon Flies and Patagonia both gave
at least 1 percent to environmental groups for years,
the crossover went unnoticed until Craig published
an editorial in Blue Ribbon’s 2001 catalogue to enlist
others.
Chouinard read it, contacted Craig, and together the
two fishing buddies crafted an “Earth tax” where members give 1 percent of gross sales to approved environmental causes of their choice.
Initially run as an internal Patagonia project, the program grew slowly, particularly in the outdoor industry. In 2005, it became independent and gained 501(c)3
status. A year later, concluding competitors didn’t
want to associate with Blue Ribbon and Patagonia,
Craig and Chouinard stepped down from the board.
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Membership has since grown from 92 to more than
1,200, raising more than $100 million for 3,000 environmental groups worldwide.
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assuring tributaries supply cool water to the Madison River and spawning habitat for wild trout. Going
forward, the Mathews are working
with biologists from government
agencies and nonprofits to improve
wildlife recruitment.
The 40-mile drive from the ranch to
West Yellowstone runs east along
the Madison River, past Quake and
Hebgen lakes. The trip, which he
makes several days a week, gives
Craig a chance to fish those waters at
least 150 days a year.
The Mathews in 2001 spearheaded an effort to protect the Three Dollar Bridge fishing access,
10 miles upstream from where this photo was taken on the Madison River. Today, Montana Fish,
Wildlife and Parks manages three miles of riverfront there, and 12,000 adjoining acres are part
of a conservation easement. Photo by Max Lowe
“The 1% story resonated with me,”
said Tenkara USA founder Daniel
Galhardo, a member who donates
primarily to Trout Unlimited. “I
thought it was inspirational, especially as an aspiring young entrepreneur.”
Blue Ribbon remains a member, and
Craig’s role is now as a cheerleader,
“Johnny Apple-seeding the world”
through speaking engagements.
“He is a compelling speaker who
can move others to tears as easily as
he himself is moved,” says 1% CEO
Terry Kellogg. “At times he is really
passionate about the movement that
he’s started.”
Funding recipients in the Yellowstone region include YPF, the
Madison River Foundation, the Big
Sky Community Corporation, the
Federation of Fly Fishers and the
Grand Teton National Park Foundation, among more than 100 others
in Montana, Wyoming and Idaho.
COMPASS FOR LIFE
In 2012, the Mathews began managing the 28,000-acre Sun Ranch south
of Ennis, Montana.
Formerly owned by actor Steven
Seagal, the ranch runs 1,200 head of
cattle and is home to 3,500 wintering elk, a pack of wolves, a wolverine den, trout streams and a westslope cutthroat hatchery. A biannual
pronghorn migration has beaten a
path across the property at the base
of the Madison Range.
Craig was the ranch’s outfitter for 11
years, and he and Jackie now live in
the neighboring Sun West Ranch development, but neither of them had
ranching experience, so it’s been a
crash course. Already in place when
they came on were a number of conservation and wildlife programs.
These include an easement on the
southern end of the ranch allowing
public access at Papoose Creek, and
an agreement with Trout Unlimited
“If there’s an hour here, and I’m
sitting at home… I say, ‘by God, I
could spend the next 50 minutes on
the Madison River.’”
Perhaps it’s this river that’s kept him
grounded – most likely Jackie, his
partner in business, conservation,
hunting and fishing, had something
to do with it, as well.
“They’re the same people they were
when you walk into the store that
they were 30 years ago,” said Brian
Kahn, host of the public radio show
Home Ground and former director
of the Montana Nature Conservancy.
“I think it goes without saying that
is a result of personal integrity.”
And there’s connection to work.
“Maybe I should retire,” Craig said,
“but I haven’t found time.”
Perhaps he’s fueled by something
greater than himself.
“Once [conservation] gets into your
blood – and it doesn’t take long for
a fisherman, as a rule – it steers your
ship,” he says, his voice wavering.
“It’s your compass for life.”
Emily Stifler is managing editor
of Mountain Outlaw magazine.
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outdoor sports: biking
Biking Jackson Hole
By Kristen Pope
Whether you’re looking for a teeth-rattling downhill
ride or a tranquil family outing, the Jackson Hole Valley has something for every biker.
Families and beginners can enjoy paved paths and simple cross-country rides, while more adventurous riders
can find thrills on downhill and backcountry routes.
T.J. Sullivan, Bike Manager at Jackson Hole Sports,
recommends Jackson Hole Mountain Resort’s trails as
a place for beginners and intermediates to hone their
skills and gain confidence for downhill riding before
venturing to Teton Pass’s more challenging trails.
“Take a lesson at [the resort] first,” Sullivan says.
“Work your way up the trails to the bigger jumps. Once
Photos Courtesy of JHMR
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Ride with care
Keep in mind that bikes are
not permitted in wilderness
areas. Be aware of property
boundaries and heed all
signs and regulations, which
include yielding to other trail
users. For more information
on regulations, contact the
Bridger-Teton National Forest at (307) 739-5500.
you’re feeling comfortable in the air and descending at a faster pace,
[head] to Teton Pass and preferably go with someone who knows the
trails.”
For advanced riders wanting to head straight to the goods, Teton
Freedom Riders President Kevin Kavanagh suggests the downhillonly Lithium Trail off the pass, or the 19-mile Cache-Game-West
Game-Ferrins loop for a cross-country challenge.
“Biking in Jackson is unbelievable, because we have one of the best,
most diversified trail systems in the country,” Kavanagh said. “Trails
are an integral part of a sustainable community.”
With the area’s abundant wildlife, many bikers choose to carry bear
spray, something Gregg Losinski, Regional Conservation Educator
for Idaho Fish and Game, recommends.
“If you need bear spray, you’re probably going to need it
quickly,” Losinski said, suggesting keeping it somewhere
accessible. “We also recommend making noise. The bottom
line is that you don’t want to surprise a bear. They could be
feeding, sleeping or walking down the trail. If you’re coming down that trail at 20 miles per hour, you can literally
crash into a bear.”
Bear spray canisters – available at nearly any outdoor shop –
can be mounted in a carrier on a bike frame. Bikes and other
equipment can also be rented at a number of local shops.
Maps and more information on paths and trails are available
at friendsofpathways.org/resources.
See next page for trail recommendations.
JULY
19 6:00PM
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outdoor sports: biking
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biking jackson hole
Paved paths
A combination of pathways and roads connect Jackson, Wilson
and Teton Village, and more are in the works, including a bridge
over the Snake River set to be finished by December. Grand Teton
National Park offers a popular family-friendly path from Moose to
Jenny Lake, and riders of all ages and abilities will enjoy the views
from the ride alongside the National Elk Refuge.
Cross-country mountain biking
Both Teton Pass and Jackson Hole Mountain Resort trails saw
major upgrades in recent years, including the connector trail at
JHMR that links the resort’s two cross country trails making an approximately five-mile loop. JHMR beginners can enjoy the Saratoga
Trail, while advanced riders will find technical challenges and
jumps on True Grit. On Teton Pass, the recently constructed Phillips Ridge and Arrow Trails are popular options.
Downhill and lift-accessed riding
JHMR offers lessons for beginners and intermediates on both
cross-country and lift-accessed downhill trails. For advanced riders, there is plenty of adrenaline to be found here, or on Teton Pass
with trails such as Lithium, Fuzzy Bunny and Jimmy’s Mom, which
offer technical terrain, big jumps and gaps.
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Backcountry riding
Just outside of town, the Cache Creek area has backcountry riding
for all abilities. The Cache Creek Sidewalk Trail to the Putt Putt
Trail is perfect for beginners, while intermediate riders can link
Putt Putt to the Hagen Trail. Looking for a longer ride? Head up
the Cache Creek Sidewalk Trail to the Cache Creek Trail, and then
around the backside of Snow King to Game Creek, coming out
south of town on Highway 89. Be aware that the Cache Creek Trail
enters the Gros Ventre Wilderness at mile six, and bikes are not
allowed beyond that point.
62 Mountain
explorebigsky.com
outdoor sports: biking
Cyclocross
Blood, sweat and smiles
Cyclocross racers, often costumed, move through a maze of obstacles for 45-60 minutes, often in variable conditions. Pictured here are scenes
from the October, 2012 Mulecross at the Gallatin County Fairgrounds in Bozeman, Montana. Photos by Joris Van Cutsem
By Chris Davis
This style of riding has seen an
upswing in the U.S. in the last two
Love mud, furious pedaling and a
decades, in part because the season
good time? Cyclocross might be for
takes place in fall and winter, the offyou.
season for traditional bike
racing. It’s also thanks to
Racers must navigate an
the fun-loving, energetic
Regional races
off-road track, frequently
community surrounding
and events
shouldering their bikes
the sport.
MONTANA
to run up steep slopes or
Rolling Thunder,
jump hurdles, and then
Competitors tend to
Missoula, Oct 19-20
quickly remount until
have a sense of humor
Wednesday night
the next obstacle.
about the difficulties of
cyclocross race
the obstacles, and you’ll
series, Bozeman &
Missoula, Sept-Oct
“You’re down in the
often see them clad in silly
trenches and the mud’s
costumes.
Last Chance CX,
Helena, Oct 6
flying and the tires are
Hot Cheetos and Taki
in your face,” said Ryan
Already popular in MisCross,
Bozeman,
Hamilton, a rider with
soula, the sport is growing
Oct 26-27 Team Rockford in Bozearound the Northern RockMSU Cross Weekend,
man, Montana.
ies. Bozeman, which has
Bozeman, Nov 2-3
four courses, is one of the
Herron CX Weekend,
Cyclocross frames look
fastest growing cyclocross
Kalispell, Nov 9-10
similar to road bikes,
markets. Case in point:
IDAHO
but are built to take on
Team Rockford riders has
Moosecross, Victor,
sloppy conditions, with
one of the highest participaOct. 12-13
their wider, knobby tires,
tion levels in the country
Bear Lake Monster
cantilevered brakes and
with its sponsor, Giant, for
Cross, Montpelier,
June 29
stronger construction.
a team of its size, according
Plenty of people use
to Hamilton. mountain or road bikes,
and either way, Hamilton says, you’re
The Wednesday night training races in
set up for success.
Bozeman, open to anyone, are growing
in popularity, said Tom Owen, owner
of Gallatin Alpine Sports in Big Sky
and co-founder of the GAS/Intrinsik
bike team which hosts the public rides.
Getting started is easy, said Owen, who
recommends building your base miles
this summer, and when the trails get
muddy and the roads icy, seeking out
a cyclocross club and keeping those
wheels spinning.
Find more: montanacycling.net,
idahocyclocross.com, usacycling.org
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Mountain
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Mountain
65
outdoor sports: biking
SAILING WITH
GRAVITY
Q+A with extreme mountain
biker Mike Kinrade
By Emily Stifler
Mike Kinrade rides his bike down mountain faces like
he’s creating a piece of artwork.
Watch a clip on YouTube, and you’ll see the Nelson,
British Columbia native charging down a 40-degree
slope at 30 miles an hour, arcing fluid turns and taking
air as if on snow.
But it’s not only an artform:
With time spent scoping potential lines, this
type of riding is a finely
tuned combination of risk,
physics, athleticism and
intuition.
“You’re literally dropping
into the unknown,” says
Kinrade, 32. “You don’t
know how the dirt and ground will react to your tires or
braking, or how to corner in it. It’s not like snow where it’s
a consistent texture – every 10 feet is different, and you
have to adapt quickly.
“Once you’ve ridden a line and get into the zone though,
it’s a lot more free and fluid.”
Riding 150-200 days a year, Kinrade describes his downhill bike – an Evil Bikes Undead with Manitou suspension
– as an extension of his body.
While many of his favorite big lines are in British Columbia, others, like those featured in the Redbull Media
House-sponsored film, Where the Trail Ends, were first
descents in far-off places like the Salta Province of Argentina.
After more than 15 years in the bike scene, Kinrade sees
himself as an ambassador for the sport.
“I’ve started rediscovering what it’s about, what I’m
stoked on and what keeps me coming back. For me it’s
more about getting out riding with friends. I like to promote that part of the sport.”
Mike Kinrade riding outside of Nelson, British Columbia Photos by Nick Diamond
What was your first bike?
When I was 14, I got a Nishiki Expedition two
sizes too big. It was black with purple paint
splashed on it, and purple bar ends and toe
clips – the ugliest bike ever. Mountain biking
was new in Nelson, and the trails were super
bumpy and rowdy.
Tell me about your family.
My dad’s a Kootenay boy, and my mom’s
originally from Ontario. One of my brothers is
a hockey player in Switzerland, and the other
is an engineer in Vancouver. We’re very different: the hockey jock, the quiet nerdy engineer,
and me, the black sheep.
Describe your sport.
I love looking for new places to ride, going for
first descents of peaks.
How did you get into that?
Byron Grey and Darren Butler showed me
these big mountain lines in Invermere 12
years ago, and I was like, ‘What the f*** are
you guys talking about?’ Watching Darren
ride, I knew this was the future.
What do you like about it?
I love the lifestyle. It’s in the mountains, with
friends. I love ripping through the rowdiest,
roughest terrain, doing [30 miles an hour]
where you wouldn’t feel comfortable walking.
It’s exhilarating to go where a mountain bike
has never touched the ground and be the first
to do it.
How do you train?
I ride as much as possible, and I work out. My
personal trainer, a paraplegic [paralyzed in a
biking accident] runs a militia-style program
called Sasquatch Performance Training.
You’re not allowed to talk, ask questions or
stop. Basically, he tries to kill you. It’s the
same way on a bike: You get on and hammer,
and every element is trying to kill you.
Tell me about your crash at the Red
Bull Rampage.
A gust of wind blew me back on my bike, and
I cased a jump. As I flipped over, my head
hit the ground and I knocked myself out...
It wasn’t actually that bad. I train to learn
how to fall and come back from injuries. The
biggest thing that sucks is it takes time off
your bike.
Who inspires you?
My grandfather was an old mountain man
who moved from Ontario and fell in love
with the mountains. He taught me to respect nature and life. He’s been my biggest
influence.
As far as riding goes, Dylan Tremblay. We
grew up together, and he got me into biking when I was 14. [Later], he would just
show up at cross-country races with his
glasses on and his shoes untied and win.
He was a freak, basically.
I’ve heard you’re planning a mountain biking event at Baldface Lodge,
outside of Nelson.
It’ll be something like the Red Bull Ultra
Natural or the Rampage – a 2,500-vertical foot, gnarly freestyle backcountry
competition. It would be next summer or
the year after.
How would you describe risk?
Risk is getting out of your comfort zone,
[and whether you’re ready to deal with
it]. Over time, you can tolerate more. The
more confident you are, the more you
minimize it.
What is your relationship with gravity?
It’s a constant fight and struggle, a lovehate relationship. Sometimes it schools
you. [Downhill mountain biking is] like
sailing with gravity – except there’s only
one direction, so you just have to change
the angles.
explorebigsky.com
Mountain
67
escape
D e finition :
al o
s h a r i n g ,
oha
j o yo u s
h a
l i f e
i n
A loha
t h e
p r e s e n t
a f f e ct i o n ,
e n e r gy ,
l i f e ,
j o y
b r e at h
The true meani n g of th i s
fa mo u s Haw ai i an ter m i s
“in the presence of li fe”
By Eric Ladd | photos by aaron feinberg
When you visit Kauai, you feel the ‘Aloha’
spirit in many ways.
Located on the northern end of the Hawaiian
chain, Kauai is 562 square miles and geologically the oldest island. Often referred to as
the “garden isle,” it’s blessed with ample
fresh water and is truly an island getaway.
With diverse natural resources, Kauai is
known for its spiritual nature, lush jungles,
the stunning Na Pali coastline and nearby
Kalalau Valley overlook. Ancient Taro
plant fields dot the landscape, and romantic
Hanalei Bay Beach is one of the world’s most
beautiful.
Accommodations range from well-organized
campgrounds to pampered spa resorts
overlooking the ocean. The island’s various adventures are also suited for a range of
interests, from families exploring the ocean
with dolphins, to adrenaline junkies surfing
Kauai’s legendary North Shore breaks.
explorebigsky.com
Mountain
69
escape: kauai
Ke’e Beach/
Kalalau Trailhead
1
HawaiiAn Islands
Hanalai Bay
Na pali Coast
11 mi.
Yoga
hanalei
Kalalau Beach
2
St. Regis Princeville
The Dolphin
Polihale
Beach
Kawaikini
(Elevation: 5,243’)
island taco
kalaheo yoga
tortilla
republic
3
Where to eat
red salt
North Shore - The Dolphin
The Dolphin in Hanalei is a fish market, restaurant and sushi lounge. Couple a teriyaki-glazed
tuna steak with a Coconut Porter from the
Maui Brewing Company. hanaleidolphin.com
South Shore – Red Salt
Red Salt, a quaint restaurant
in Koa Kea Resort, serves up
massive six-ounce martinis,
sushi and mushroom bisque.
koakea.com/dining-at-red-salt
Fish tacos – Island Taco
Island Taco in Waimea is a must-stop locals’
favorite. Grab a drink from the smoothie stand
across the street and pair it with a Seared
Wasabi Ahi Taco for mid-day meal perfection.
islandfishtaco.com
Good for the soul
North Shore: Yoga Hanalei
Multiple classes are offered daily; the
smell of fresh-roasted coffee surrounds
the studio. yogahanalei.com
South Shore: Kalaheo Yoga
Look for a class led by Paul Reynolds in
this well-appointed studio.
kalaheoyoga.com
Hip - Tortilla Republic
With locations in Poipu, Kauai and Hollywood,
California, this fast-moving establishment features guacamole made fresh at your table, an
extensive margarita list and live house music.
tortillarepublic.com
70 Mountain
koa kea
explorebigsky.com
A lesson in ethnic
geopolitics
Which is it? Hawaii or Hawai’i?
According to the United States
Board of Geographic Names,
the official U.S. state name is
Hawaii, whereas the “Big Island”
is Hawai‘i. USBGN also states the
collective islands are known as the
Hawai‘ian Islands.
The ‘Okina is a letter in the Hawaiian alphabet, wherein the speaker
reads “Hawai‘i” with an airflow
restriction in the vocal tract.
Many Hawaiian locals prefer
“Hawai‘i” as a form of nationalism and a way to emphasize their
traditional culture. - J.O.
3 ways to
explore
kauai
Above: Moonrise over Kalalau Beach. Below: Polihale Beach, located further south on the Na Pali coastline.
1
Backpacking the Na Pali Coast
Spanning 15 miles and protecting 6,175 acres of isolated, roadless
wilderness, the Na Pali coastline is a treasured stop for any visitor to
Kauai. As you explore the narrow, winding roads of the North Shore,
you’ll end up at Ke’e Beach, which is where the Kalalau Trail begins.
Known as one of the most arduous and scenic hikes in the world, the
11-mile trail is a backpacker’s dream.
Farmers and fishermen first settled this region in 1200 A.D. The dramatic setting is home to the largest valley on the North Shore, Kalalau Valley. While many choose to see the Na Pali Coast via helicopter
or boat tour, hiking the Kalalau Trail is a journal-worthy adventure.
A solid day, or a civilized two-day journey, this challenging hike is
filled with stream crossings; narrow, slick trails; sheer drop-offs and
scenic ocean views. The trip takes most hikers an average of five to
eight hours each way. While regulated, the trail has become popular – be prepared for a mini-Woodstock style campground at Kalalau
Beach, fronted by a mile-long strip of pearl white sand.
If you have more time, worthy side activities include hikes to hidden
waterfalls and lush jungle pools, bartering with local Kalalau dwellers, and cribbage on the beach.
Tips : Pack light, bring plenty of water, be prepared to guard yourself
from the sun and rain, and take extra time to stop and cherish this
journey. Treat all drinking water, bring a deck of cards and get ready to
see the best sunset of your life.
After mile two, the crowds subside and you’ll have the trail to yourself.
Rumor has it you can pay locals to shuttle your gear to the beach via
boat.
Must-bring gear: Sarong and hiking poles
Sunset at Hanalei Bay
2
Pampered at the St. Regis Princeville
Blessed daily with the last sunset in the United States, the St.
Regis overlooking Hanalei Bay is
arguably one of the finest luxury
resorts in the world.
With a 93 percent return ratio for
employees, and guests arriving
from around the globe, this is a
special place. Its motto: “Anticipating your expectations.”
Every sunset, St. Regis Butler,
Kaleo Guerrero, sabres a bottle
of champagne on the resort patio,
sharing tales of native Hawaiians
in Hanalei and the area’s mystical
nature.
The St. Regis Princeville boasts
51 suites with butler service
and a cleaning station for hiking
boots in the lobby entrance.
Sophisticated, yet at home with
the laid-back North Shore vibe,
its amenities include poolside
service, a private, quiet beach
and a valet team that helps make
the stay at St. Regis both refined
and memorable.
You’ll plan to go back.
Tip : Get a taro butter couples massage in 10,000 sq/ft St. Regis Spa
stregisprinceville.com
A view from the lobby and a romantic
cabana dinner at St. Regis
Photos courtesy of St. Regis Princeville
St. Regis Spa
A deep breath…
(A female guest’s account)
Upon arrival, I toured the spa, which included a steam room, sauna,
five-point shower and relaxation rooms, all while sipping coconut
cream tea.
Later that day, we had a couple’s massage. The masseuses were
thorough, asking detailed questions about our health and massage
preferences. Aromas filled the room, and hot stones were placed in all
the right locations. Sixty minutes later, my breathing had slowed, and
my mind was clear and focused. The St. Regis Spa lounge
72 Mountain
Sushi and a martini from the St. Regis lounge was a lovely ending to
an incredible experience.
explorebigsky.com
3 Exploring the South Shore
from Koa Kea
Along the bustling South Shore near the town of Poipu lies a tranquil oasis, Koa Kea.
Recently rebuilt after being leveled in the 1992 hurricane Iniki, this small resort has a
swank, yet minimalistic style, many of its 121 rooms with intimate oceanfront decks.
A quiet pool courtyard in the heart of the resort offers guests an exquisite private setting.
Highlights include in-room Nespresso machines, clean, modern décor,
quiet, clamshell shaped beaches, calm swimming waters and direct access
to some of the best beginner surf. The resort is ideally located near trails,
golf, parks and other attractions.
Translated, Koa Kea means “white coral” – a perfect match for the style,
look and location of the luxury oceanfront resort.
Tip: Visit the gift shop for jars of Hawaiian-made red salt as a gift to bring
home. koakea.com
“Bamboo Altar” photo by Aaron Feinberg
Aaron Feinberg Photography
You can almost feel the Earth rotating in
Aaron Feinberg’s photographs.
“I try to connect the viewer to what I see,”
says the self-taught artist. He captures this in
the ephemeral drama of a breaking wave, in
Kauai’s beaches and starry nights, and in his
fine art nudes.
Since moving to the island for a restaurant
job in 2007 after three winters ski bumming
in Alta, Utah, and taking on photography full
time in 2009, Feinberg has won accolades
from National Geographic and American
Photo Magazine, among others.
A Long Island, New York-native, he loves the
rural nature of Kauai.
“On the North Shore, where I live, the bar
closes at 10 p.m. and the closest movie theater is 45 minutes away. But open up my front
door, and you have one of the craziest views in
the world.” – E.S.
Koa Kea Resort Hotel at Poipu Beach Photo courtesy of Koa Kea Resort
See more of Feinberg’s work at
expandingvisualreality.com, or at his
galleries in Hanalei, Poipu and Princeville,
Kauai.
Mountain
73
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74 Mountain
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music
By Megan Paulson
It’s addicting.
The music intensifies, makes you wait, and crescendos, building so much anticipation that the only thing to do once the beat
drops is explode with joy – jumping, pumping hands into the air,
filled with elation among a crowd of mostly strangers.
Electronic dance music, or EDM, has captured the music industry in America and around the world.
This is the era of instant. Compared to the underground scene
of the ‘70s, ‘80s and ‘90s, today’s EDM is more accessible. It’s
immediate. It spreads like wildfire.
Not-to-miss EDM festivals:
Ultra Music festival – Miami, FL
Electric Daisy Carnival – Las Vegas, NV
Electric Zoo – New York, NY
Coachella – Indio, CA
Paradiso Festival – George, WA
Shambhala – Salmo, British Columbia, Canada
Tomorrowland – Boom, Belgium
Sensation Innerspace – Amsterdam, Netherlands
Top club pick: Privilege Ibiza, Spain
From techno, house and trance, to dubstep, trap and hundreds
of other sub categories, EDM is a vast genre of music with one
uniting factor.
EDM breeds energy: in the fans, in the crowd and in each
buildup and melodic release. At live shows, lights, lasers and
visual stimulants hit you from every angle. And then there’s the
beat. It’s an intensity that builds within, and thrives.
Top DJs pack clubs around the world night after night in places
like Ibiza, Spain, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil and Las Vegas. Selling out
festivals of 300,000-plus people, these artists pull in more than
$75,000 per hour and up to $250,000 for a night’s work, jetting
off on multi-continent tours and performing 150 gigs a year.
This is a fast-paced and quickly evolving industry, and one that
has seemingly trumped traditional record sales with the urgency
and convenience of digital demand. Overhead is minimal compared to traveling with a big crew – the DJ can get to a sold-out
venue with only a plane ticket and a computer in hand.
Technology has created a low cost, convenient way to record
quality music as easily in a hotel room as in a state-of-the-art
studio. Many DJs craft new songs or sets while flying to the next
gig. Another game-changer is the ethic of sharing music and free
downloads, and encouraging re-mixing or mashups of songs.
A collaboration of sound and sensation, EDM is at the height of
its powers. >>>
POWER IN THE MUSIC
Lazers illuminate the Deep House Tent at
HARDFest 2012, in Los Angeles. PHOTO BY
MEGAN PAULSON
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Mountain
75
DJ Z-Tripp performed at the Chamberlin Rail Jam at Big Sky Resort
in March 2013. The two-day festival attracted more than 2,500 attendees and athletes. PHOTO BY JOSEPH T. O’CONNOR
music
DJZ.com
Turntable.fm founder Seth Goldstein founded
DJZ.com in 2012, creating a dedicated place
for professional DJs and fans to connect
on everything EDM: news, shows, festivals,
tours, apps, DJ beta and more. DJZ.com even
seamlessly taps SoundCloud for the DJ mixes
it shares with readers.
For interactive mixing fun,
download DJZ apps:
DJZtxt – a messaging app that turns emojis
into sounds
Crossfader – an intuitive music experience
that lets you DJ by dancing
Watch the DJZ, EDM experience at
HardFest Day of the Dead festival in
LA: explorebigsky.com/djz
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Mountain
77
real estate
Paths connecting
to the landscape
Big Sky’s West Fork Camp
The year is 1805. As a scout with the Lewis and Clark expedition, you’ve just entered Montana. It’s June, so the expedition
has to hunt elk and bear in the high country, near timberline.
Meriwether Lewis sends you ahead, up a canyon draw to
scout a summer camp. After hiking for three hours, you
stop to rest in a flat clearing. An aspen grove beside a pond
catches your eye.
In 195 years, this plot will hold one of the finest estates
developed in southwest Montana and one of the first in the
Yellowstone Club – West Fork Camp.
Architect Larry Pearson and current owner Greg LeMond, the three-time Tour de France winner, found this
17.04-acreage off Sandstone Road in 1999. They knew
right away it was the club’s quintessential property. It had
it all – flat ground, stunning views, trout ponds and clear
water.
Architect Larry Pearson designed the West Fork Camp fire tower, which
doubles as a living space, to replicate the Forest Service towers used
to spot wildfires. More than 100 tons of regional schist ledgestone from
Harlowton, Montana, 150 miles northeast, were used in this and the
adjacent guest cabin. Photos by jake campos
“This was a discovery,” says Pearson, who has since designed
more than 50 properties at the Y.C. “We were pioneers when
we found this level meadow in the mountains. [West Fork
Camp] is the most unique site at the club. It’s livable and intuitive.”
This is Montana.
Below: A birdseye view of the camp looking south-southwest. Counterclockwise from left are the vehicle barn, main cabin and trapper’s cabin.
The 17.04-acre property has three stocked trout ponds. Photo by Larry Pearson
78 Mountain
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“We were pioneers when we found this level meadow
in the mountains. [West Fork Camp] is the most
unique site at the club. It’s livable and intuitive.”
Stands of lodgepole pine
reach straight and tall and
paths connect cabins and trout
ponds, drawing you into the
landscape. Pioneer Mountain at
9,859 feet rises stolid above the
treetops.
West Fork Camp, built by Yellowstone Traditions, contains
three cabins, two outbuildings
and a stone fire tower designed
with historic Western wildfire
lookouts in mind. Even with
vast acreage, the camp has a
sense of intimacy.
“What’s most interesting is the
experience you get between
the structures,” Pearson says.
“It forces you to appreciate
nature as you walk between the
buildings, and to explore this
pristine environment.”
Above: The main cabin’s living room, seen
from the kitchen. The hand-stacked fireplace was built with the same native schist
as the fire tower and guest cabin.
Paths connect the main cabin, an
Right: This stable-style door and handauthentic and refined log home,
forged handle access the fire tower’s lower
suite. The wrap-around deck upstairs offers
with the simple, 1800s-style
show-stopping views of 9,859-foot Pioneer
trappers cabin set low to the
Mountain. Photos by Jake Campos
earth beside the western-most
pond. They meander south to a
bedroom; its wrap-around
gathering hall designed as a center for
deck providing unobstructed views
family events and finally to the guest
of Pioneer.
cabin, vehicle barn and fire tower.
Pearson designed the guest cabin
using two historic log structures
from Ted Turner’s Flying D Ranch. A
historic architectural style known as
a “dogtrot,” links the cabins with a
continuous roofline. The fire tower
doubles as another living space, with
three bunk beds and a downstairs
The structures are all comprised
of local and regional stone and
reclaimed lumber, their designs
simple, traditional and exceptional.
Pearson’s pioneering designs are
evident everywhere on the property. Approaching the main cabin,
the details lead your eye up the
dry-stack native schist on the
near northwest corner, and across
the custom milled logwork.
A hand-forged, wrought iron
“rat-tail” lever on the front door
exemplifies traditional craftsmanship from “the most skilled
artisans in Montana,” Pearson says.
Stepping into the main cabin is like
seeing an old friend, he says. A handstacked stone fireplace stands in the
explorebigsky.com
Mountain
79
real estate
West Fork Camp Stats
big sky, montana
•
•
•
•
•
•
17 acres
4 cabins
2 barns
3 ponds with fish
room to build main gathering lodge
access to private club
The trapper’s cabin, beneath its traditional low-angle roof, peers out over a trout pond in West
Fork Camp. The main cabin looks on from the northwest.
center, and the rest of the 1,800 heated-square-foot
building seems to grow around it. Hand-hewn wood
and wrought iron accents lend character and warmth.
“We interpreted the past and created a new paradigm with
the West Fork Camp,” Pearson says. “There’s a sense that
you’re participating in something bigger.”
Pearson’s design allows one to be a part of West Fork
Camp, and part of Montana. It immerses observers in
the landscape. From the trapper’s cabin tucked into the
hillside to strolling the paths between the structures
and along the ponds, one is connected to the estate.
Editor’s note: As of May 2013, West Fork Camp was listed for
sale through L&K Realty in Big Sky. For more information
visit lkrealestate.com or call (406) 995-2404.
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80 Mountain
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View a video of West Fork Camp at explorebigsky.com/westforkcamp
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4 0 6 5 8 6 5 5 9 3 bozeman, mt
4 0 6 7 7 7 5 5 5 9 missoula, mt
3 0 7 2 0 0 0 5 3 3 jackson, wy
w w w. S TU D I O AV. n e t
Mountain
81
dog geared
GEAR
Mountain Outlaw’s four-legged gear testers review their favorite products.
gunner
black
betty
diva
(1)
(2)
Black Betty
Breed: Black lab/German short hair pointer mix
Age: 3 years old
Born in Big Sky, Montana, and the daughter of two champion hunting
dogs, I was bred to run and hunt. I spend winter Nordic and alpine skiing
and summer whitewater rafting, all in preparation for fall bird season.
I’m not a fan of porcupines, skunks or moose, finding them a nuisance.
My stepbrother Cedar, who’s 14, has shown me the ropes on dealing with
bears and finding the best swimming holes on the Gallatin River.
(3)
Gear: Cabela’s Ripstop Chest Protector; Ruffwear K-9 Float Coat (1)
My hunter’s orange chest protector vest ($40) keeps me safe in bird
season, and the comfy K-9 Float Coat ($80) keeps me above the rapids.
cabelas.com, ruffwear.com
Food: GO! dog food (2), Dee-o-Gee’s homemade treats (3)
GO! Fit + Free dog food (starting at $53) is a grain free mix of turkey,
chicken and salmon proteins with essential Omega oils that help keep my
mind and vision sharp. Dee-o-Gee’s all natural treats, hand-rolled and cut
in the Bozeman store, are made without salt, sugar or preservatives ($5).
I particularly like the Peanut Butter and Pumpkin flavor, with flour from
Wheat Montana and local eggs. petcurean.com, dee-o-gee.com
Advice to other dogs: Get pet insurance and don’t overheat in the summer.
I suggest the Ruffwear Swamp Cooler vest (4) for long hikes – it’s the
best way for a black betty like me to keep cool. ($55)
82 Mountain
explorebigsky.com
(3)
(4)
(4)
Black Betty using her Ruffwear
K-9 Float Coat on the Middle
Fork of the Salmon River, Idaho.
Photo by Eric Ladd
Mention this ad for a great deal on ALL
Ruffwear packs at DEE-O-GEE!
Gunner sports Ruffwear’s Palisades pack on a hike in Beehive
Basin Photo by Chris Davis
(1)
(3)
(4)
GUNNER
Breed: Curly tail mutt (some sort of shepherd/collie/Basenji mix)
Age: A-few-thousand-naps-in-the-sun-old
I’m well-traveled and ruff’ined. My human picked me up in
Chicago, and we moved to Montana a couple years ago. This is
paradise. I know how to coerce treats from a human, and one
inalienable truth: If you throw it, I’ll chase it.
Toy: West Paw Design Zisc Glow Frisbee (1)
Like I said, if you throw it, I’ll chase it. I’m also unlikely to return
it right away. In fact, I may just sit in the shade and chew on it,
which is why I’ll wag to the Zisc Glow Frisbee – I can’t rip it apart,
and it always flies true. westpawdesign.com $12
*MONTANA’SBEST
Montana's best source for all-natural
pet foods, grooming, supplements
and unique dog gear.
Gear: Ruffwear Palisades Pack (2), Slackline Leash (3)
Ruffwear’s Palisades Pack ($130) lets me carry my own food,
water and waste, making me part of the team. The pack is
comfortable and secure – so much so that when I can’t navigate
a narrow spot, my human grabs the harness handle and lifts me
through. The Slackline Leash ($40) keeps me attached at the hip
to my human. Since it’s adjustable, I’m always at his heels or a
step behind on a run.
Treat: YaffBar (4)
I sit and stay when my human reaches for a YaffBar. This is
world’s first energy bar designed for humans and dogs to share.
My favorite flavor is honey almond cranberry. (six for $18)
muddandwyeth.com
SHOP ONLINE AT
DEE-O-GEE.COM
explorebigsky.com
Mountain
83
Customized Private Tours
- Spectacular Yellowstone National Park
- Complimentary Gourmet Picnic Lunches
- Great for Families!
$699
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up to 8 people, with the exception of
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84
Mountain
explorebigsky.com
GEAR
Acupuncture for animals
By Jenny Ladd
(1)
Throughout its 5,000-year history, acupuncture has had
many applications – from human medicine to therapy
for Emperors’ horses.
A Chinese medical practice, it promotes natural healing through insertion of needles and application of heat
or electrical stimulation at precise points. Because the
Chinese never desecrated a body for science, they developed the meridians and points empirically, refining
the practice through observation and treatment. (2)
(2)
diva
Breed: Pound puppy perfect (border
collie mix)
Age: 98 dog years/14 calendar years
One lifetime isn’t enough – I could
snowboard, run, surf Lake Superior,
chase moose, hike through wildflowers and float the river forever. I
live comfortably at the base of Lone
Mountain and lately enjoy a good nap
as much as anything. Snacking on
carrots is the secret to my youthful
appearance, and keeping my puppyhood ball with me helps whenever
things get rough (like fireworks. I hate
fireworks). Health treatment: Acupuncture
Every dog should go to the spa for this
relaxing and revitalizing therapy – it
makes me feel like a prettier version
of Wonder Dog and lets me relive my
days jumping creeks and sprinting after
squirrels. $53-83 360petmedical.com
Indulgence: West Paw Heyday Bed (1)
After 98 years of strenuous activity, a
cozy bed is a must. I keep the Heyday
($59) in the car so I can curl up after
muddy hikes. Made from recycled
materials, the super soft microsuede
stays nice and clean.
Treat: Zuke’s Organic Hip Action (2)
With glucosamine and chondroiton,
Zukes ($9) help keep me feeling like
I’m in my 50s. Beef flavor is my favorite – it pairs nicely with carrots. zukes.com
The theory behind it is that pain is stagnation of chi,
or energy, in the meridians; furthermore, an excess
or deficiency of yin or yang causes disease. Yin and
yang are opposite but balancing aspects of any living
entity, and acupuncture is meant to balance the body by
strengthening or removing these excesses.
Modern science has found many of the acupuncture
points are located at nerve roots, along nutrient passageways and on peripheral nerves, and the treatment causes the body to release serotonin and other
compounds that reduce pain and inflammation.
Veterinary acupuncture can help with intervertebral
disk disease, osteoarthritis, endocrine disturbances
and promote healing. Although it should not replace
traditional veterinary medicine, using it as an adjunct
therapy can slow disease progression and reduce or
eliminate the need for medications.
Jenny Ladd is a fourth year veterinary student at
Oklahoma State University, and a certified veterinary
acupuncturist living in Stillwater, Oklahoma.
explorebigsky.com
GEAR
Horny Toad Swifty Pocket Hoodie
You’ll put the Swifty hoodie on and won’t
want to take it off... for days. Work in it,
climb in it, bbq in it, sleep in it, put your
ipod in the pocket and go hiking, repeat.
Soft and stretchy, it’s a bit sheer, so wear
a cami underneath. $75 hornytoad.com
Smartwool Ferndale Skirt
Split wood, cover up while you change
into a swimsuit, take a midnight mission
into the hills… Superwoman should have
worn this skirt. $100 smartwool.com
Patagonia Black Hole Duffel
Waterproof, rough and tumble,
these bags have been to
their namesake in Argentine
Patagonia (120 L, by tent) and
down the Grand Canyon (45 L,
in truck). The U-shaped lid allows easy access to your gypsy
closet; a big, external pocket
and two internal mesh pockets
keep your essentials separated. $99-160 patagonia.com
The Outlaw crew hardly working on the banks of the Madison River, Montana. Photo by Chris Davis
Sea to Summit Kitchenware
Made from BPA-free, food grade nylon, the
Delta Spoon and Spork weigh in at .5 oz each.
The built-in serrated knife will saw through
veggies, but not your hand. The curvature
matches the Delta Bowl ($7), helping you get
every last bite of mac and cheese. $3.50 each
seatosummit.com
86 Mountain
explorebigsky.com
Stanley eCycle flask
Stanley’s 8 oz. eCycle flask is
leak-proof, with a two-stage lid that
allows thorough cleaning. Made from
recycled and recyclable materials,
with a lifetime warranty. Available in
fall 2013. $20 stanley-pmi.com
Bergans of Norway Humle Jacket:
It doesn’t take long to warm
up to the Humle. The brushed
fleece interior is cozy when it’s
cold and the soft wool/polyester
blend breathes well, keeping you
comfortable when the temp rises.
Generous torso and sleeve length
prevents drafts. Bonus: thumb
loops, hood and stylish stripes.
bergans.no $189
Coleman PerfectFlow
Instastart Grill Stove
Grilled elk burgers, stat.
Easy to clean, packable
bbq. $99 coleman.com
Big Agnes Betty SL 27 sleeping bag,
Insulated Q-Core sleeping pad
Stash this durable sleeping bag
in your truck, and sleep easy on
unexpected adventures. Made
from PinnecoCor synthetic insulation, the Betty ($189-99) dries
quickly and is rated to 20 degrees.
The insulated Q-Core sleeping
pad’s alternating I-Beams evenly
distribute your weight and keep
you cradled in the center. At 3.5”
thick, the pad rolls up to 5 x 9.5.”
Non-self inflating. (Starting at
$119.95) bigagnes.com
Carhartts
The toughest work pants ever
made. $40. carhartt.com
The Grocer
This reusable bag has a foursided internal folding frame that
eliminates spills. Doubles as a
backpack. $25 adkpackworks.com
Yeti Tundra Cooler
Ice cold and grizzly proof.
$360 yeticoolers.com
Smartwool PhD Teller Jacket
With a nylon shell, ultra-thin merino
wool lining and sculpted side panels,
the PhD Teller has a doctorate in
utility. Plus, it takes up less room in
your pack than a big sandwich. Move
over hoagies. $160
Mammut Ultimate Light Jacket
Mammut’s Ultimate Light
Jacket is just that – the
ultimate layer for cool
summer nights. This threelayer Gore Windstopper shell
is breathable while jogging
or tossing dries at rising
cutthroat. $199 mammut.ch
Cabela’s Zero G Padded
Chaise Lounger
Get serious about
relaxing. $80-95
cabelas.com
Alite Designs Mayfly chair
The Mayfly is small enough to toss in your car
and forget about until it’s time to chill, and
light enough to bring to the crag for indulgent belays. The low-slung design is high on
comfort, but don’t pitch the directions until
you’ve dialed the set up; it takes a couple tries
to master. $100 alitedesigns.com
Goal Zero Extreme 350 Kit
Don’t leave your laptop, music, phone or refrigerator at
home. The Extreme 350 Explorer Kit “is like taking your
wall plug with you,” said Kaysi MacDonald of Goal Zero.
The power pack charges a laptop in 2-4 hours and the
weather-resistant, solar technology leaves a miniscule
carbon footprint in the process. Drawbacks? It weighs 25
pounds and hums while powered on. $369 goalzero.com
KEEN Tunari CNX shoes
At 9.9 oz., these kicks are ultralightweight, surprisingly tough,
and so comfortable. Equipped
with metatarsal ridges, contoured arches, and rubber soles,
they’re supportive, and grip like
off-road tires on muddy trails.
$110 keenfootwear.com
Also pictured:
Ruffwear Quencher Cinch Top dog bowl $20 ruffwear.com
Macbook Pro laptop starting at $1,199 apple.com
Kletterwerks Kurier $299 kletterwerks.com
Sanuk Torrey boots $90 sanuk.com
Pelican 1500 Case $100 pelican.com
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Mountain
87
Big Sky
Lone Peak
11,253 ft.
BIG LIFESTYLE
For more information on this property and other Big Sky, Montana properties visit prumt.com.
An independently owned and operated broker member of BRER Affiliates, Inc. Prudential, the Prudential logo and Rock symbol are service marks of Prudential Financial, Inc. and its related entities, registered in many jurisdictions worldwide. Used under license with no other affiliation of Prudential.
Equal Housing Opportunity. All information contained herein is derived from sources deemed reliable; however, is not guaranteed by Prudential Montana Real Estate, Managing Broker, Agents or Sellers. Offering is subject to error, omissions, prior sales, price change or withdrawal without notice and
approval of purchase by Seller. We urge independent verification of each and every item submitted, to the satisfaction of any prospective purchaser.
C R E AT E F R O M
Montana H I STORY
OUR T IM BE R TO YOUR T RE AS URE
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Luke navigates while Max naps on Jackson Lake,
Wyoming Photo by stephen adamson
A dad’s
guide to
mountain
adventure
with little ones
By Luke M. Lynch
Was the curious chipmunk at the summit of 10,741-foot Jackson Peak the
highlight of Max’s day in the mountains? Or the extra dose of tasty snacks?
It really didn’t matter – the day was an
unqualified success, and one of my most
memorable experiences last summer.
Not only did I get a good workout lugging my son up the trail, I also enjoyed
his colorful commentary. A 3-year-old
brings his own perspective to the mountains, and even small adventures can
become big ones – that day in August we
found a small patch of snow and had a
snowman-building extravaganza.
Neither my wife Kathy nor I are giving up our kid-free outdoor pursuits
anytime soon, but we love including the
little ones whenever possible. This summer Max will be 4, his younger brother
Will, 2. Adventuring with them takes
more work, planning and gear, but it’s
worth the effort.
For us, spending time in the mountains
with our children is both gratifying and
fun – plus, when one of us takes them
out, the other gets some valuable personal time. Ultimately though, we hope
our kids will share our passion for these
wild places, and help preserve them for
the next generation.
Continued on p. 90
explorebigsky.com
Mountain
89
explore
Planning
and executing
a mountain
day trip
with kids
By age 3, kids are also learning from
their peers. It can be fun to combine
forces with another family, especially one that provides a good example
and some healthy peer pressure. I
make sure to communicate goals
and establish a plan with other dads
to maximize success; other times,
I’ll go with the kids solo, finding it
nice to have special time just with
them.
snacks
Big goals are probably the number
one enemy of success with wee ones
in the outdoors. Sure, we’ve gotten in some bigger days with kids
in tow, but we’ve also stopped a
quarter mile from the trailhead and
played in falling aspen leaves, eaten
some snacks and called it a successful day. If the little dudes have fun,
they’ll crave the next adventure.
The boys and I name the “peaks”
we climb, a fun way to remember
a good day, no matter how big or
small the objective.
Having a variety of interesting
things to eat is a critical element for
a successful journey. I pack dried
fruit, pretzels, dried seaweed, nuts,
granola bars, trail mix, crackers,
cheese and jerky. In the winter, I
add a vacuum bottle of hot chocolate. The little dudes burn hot and
fast and bonk hard if you don’t keep
them eating. Keep their engines
stoked, and they’ll have more fun.
We have a few staples in our house
that the kids only get to eat when
we’re out in the mountains. Max
calls them “Dada’s biking snacks,”
and they’re good
motivators.
kids respond the way you do
start early
Freaked out by rain? Your kid will be,
too. Stoked on getting to wear your
raincoat and test if the Chariot stroller’s
cover is really waterproof? Your kid
will be, too. As you know, children
watch their parents and friends to learn
how to react.
You probably don’t
need an alpine start
for the adventures
you can do with
children in tow,
but it helps. Moms
are right about this
one: Little ones do
better in the morning. Fewer bonks,
better energy,
more enthusiasm
Go short to go long
When our older son Max was about
18 months old, he’d get very nervous
whenever it was windy. It put quite
a damper on our outings. My solution: bring along a small kite. Now he
relishes the wind – a steady breeze has
him doing fist pumps. Last summer we
shared a splendid afternoon on Sheep
Mountain, flying a kite at 11,000 feet in
the Gros Ventre Wilderness outside of
Jackson. Kite-flying in the high alpine
is one of life’s under-appreciated joys.
90 Mountain
.
naps
Every parent handles naps differently;
in fact, this is probably
the main topic of parenting disagreement
explorebigsky.com
in our family. Luckily, toddlers that
really need naps are good at getting
them in a pack or stroller. If your
destination includes a drive, that’s
another opportunity. I refuse to be
taken hostage by nap schedules, but
I do occasionally suffer the consequences of an over-tired little one.
bonks happen
It won’t always go well. I’ve been
five or six miles from the trailhead
with an unhappy toddler. It’s not
fun. But it usually works out fine,
and I try to learn from my mistakes.
chariots, packs, boats
The mode of transport is key.
A Chariot stroller that can be pulled
by a bike or skis, or pushed like a
stroller provides valuable versatility
in a mountain town. Expensive, yes,
but necessary, as far as I’m concerned.
Used ones sell quick, so if you find
one, buy it. Spare 16-inch and 20-inch
tubes, a hand pump and tire irons
should be added to any kit when in
bike or run mode. A flat tire and no
way to fix it, far from the car with cry-
The little dudes burn hot and fast
and bonk hard if you don’t keep
them eating. Keep their engines
stoked, and they’ll have more fun.
ing kids isn’t my idea of fun. On
the way home, I’ll plan-in a quick
swim, or a stop to throw rocks or
visit friends.
A kid-carrying pack, like the
Osprey Poco, is also clutch. I’ve
loaded ours up with binoculars
and scouted for elk in the high
country, and wade-fished remote
creeks with a kid in tow. Sometimes, I strap it to the Chariot,
tow that behind my bike and
ride to the trailhead. This winter, I hauled Max, skis and all,
up the ski hill, and we skied
down together. It’s a great
workout, and Max loves the
attention. When my exertion
dictates one-word answers,
Pretty soon Max will be carrying Will in the Osprey Poco Pack.
he’s got a captive audience for
his fanciful tales of deer and
Canoes, drift boats, rafts and open
dragon hunting, and flying over
kayaks are a great way to travel, as
mountains in his imaginary friend’s
well, especially for kids that are
spaceship.
too big or won’t tolerate a pack or
Chariot; or if they’re too little
to make much headway walking,
skiing or biking on their own.
Throw in a kid’s fishing pole and
some toys, and strap on a PFD
and explore the area’s lakes and
gentler rivers.
light and right
For peak ascents and bigger days,
pack light, but still bring the
essentials. If your kid isn’t potty
trained yet, a couple diapers and
a few wipes are necessary. For
bigger kids, extra socks and pants
weigh almost nothing and are
helpful if they get cold after a
romp through a creek, a monster
puddle jump, or a muddy trail.
A special stuffed animal or lovie
can also be good for morale. Oh, and
don’t forget the sunscreen – your
wife may only buy the windburn
story once.
Big Sky Life
E s s e n t i a l s f o r t h e B i g S k y L i f e st y l e
•
•
•
•
•
men’s and women’s clothing
shoes
furniture
bath linens
accessories
The excitement of Audi
Bozeman Audi
Big Sky Showroom
The Market Place Building, 33 Lone Peak Drive, Unit 104
Big Sky, MT | (406) 995-2240
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Mountain
91
explore
A small review:
kids gear
by Kathy Lynch
1) Princeton Tec Bot kids headlamps
Our kids love these headlamps. They have
three settings (low, bright and blinking),
making them very much like an “adult”
headlamp. Easily adjustable, they don’t fall
off, despite the crashing, clanging and banging that comes with the territory of having
two young boys. $15.75 princetontec.com
1)
2) Darn Tough socks for the whole family
Lifetime guarantee. Having owned Darn
Toughs over the years, we’ve sent in a half
dozen pairs that had worn through the
bottoms. With no questions asked, Darn
Tough replaced them. As for the kid-specific version, Max reports these stay up on
your calves all day, which other kids’ socks
tend not to do. $15.95 darntough.com
2)
Max is ready for anything
in Zion, Utah.
3) Osprey Poco Plus Child Carrier
This pack is amazing.
From hauling a kid/ski/
boot combo up Snow King,
to hiking in Zion, this pack
carries a load comfortably. The child harness
is accessible and easy to
adjust, and the waist belt
and shoulder-zip pockets
carry snacks at-the-ready
for hungry kids. A hydration
pouch slides into the rear
Luke hikes, Will sleeps.
compartment, and built-in
tabs keep the drinking tube in place and accessible to the child. The
pull-up sun-shade works well, and the fleecy covering on top of the
pack is easy on the boys’ chins and faces when they fall asleep. And
Max loves using the foot stirrups (often referring to Luke as his
horse). $259.00 ospreypacks.com
5) Julbo Solan sunglasses
These shades stay put on Max’s face while hiking and biking, unlike
many kids’ sunglasses. According to Max, they’re comfortable on his
ears, don’t ever hurt his head, and he really likes the blue/gray color
scheme. $40.00 julbousa.com
4) Patagonia Torrentshell jacket
As with everything Patagonia, we love the
Torrentshell. It does well in the rain at
home in Jackson, and kept the chill off
in early mornings and windy afternoons
on our spring desert trip. We especially
like the reflective piping on the chest
and back, which makes it more visible to
cars at dusk. Zippered hand pockets in
the front are great for securing snacks or
gloves, as is the elastic/mesh inside chest
pocket. FYI, Patagonia kids’ products tend
to run a little large – luckily, this one will fit Max for at least another
year. $99.00 patagonia.com
92 Mountain
explorebigsky.com
Stunt man Max in his Julbo Solan sunglasses.
BEST I N BI G S K Y
Jeff Helms, Big Sky Sotheby’s
International Realty
Knowledge. Experience. Results.
A R E F I N E D A P P R OAC H
to luxury vacation rentals
Providing premier luxury
accommodations & guest
services in Big Sky, Montana
Belz Chateau
Ski-in/Ski-out
Sweetgrass Hills Lot
Stay with us...
• Enjoy the finest selection of luxury homes,
condos and cabins that Big Sky has to offer
• Ski-in Ski-out access to Moonlight Basin &
Big Sky Resort; discounted lift tickets
• Best-in-class service provided
List with us...
• Effortless ownership: we maintain your
property leaving you with a sense of security
• Detailed home inspection on weekly basis
• Professional & accountable housekeeping staff
B O O K YO U R VA C AT I O N
Award Winning Bozeman Estate
River View Log Home
Call for a comprehensive
list of all properties
available in Big Sky
Jeff Helms
M: 406.539.0121
E: [email protected]
bigskysir.com
406.993.2266
1.888.275.4439
[email protected]
rentbigsky.com
*
*
guide
“ L i f e i s a d a r i n g a d v e n t u r e o r n o t h i n g at a l l”
– Helen Keller
by Katie Morrison
adventure tours
Hot air balloon ride
Check out seven mountain ranges from the air
with Wyoming Balloon Company -Jackson Hole
wyomingballoon.com
Scenic Yellowstone Park and paddle
See Old Faithful in the morning and kayak Hebgen Lake
in the afternoon with Lava Lake Adventures’ private family
tour –West Yellowstone lavacreekadventures.com
Llama trek
Let the llamas do
the heavy lifting on
a multi-day trek
through the park’s
natural wonders, with
Yellowstone Safari
Company. The llamas
are kid friendly and
light on the land; they won’t spit on you, but Loredo the
llama may give you a kiss! –Bozeman
yellowstonesafari.com
fly fishing
Blue Ribbon for conservation
Craig and Jackie Mathews, owner of Blue Ribbon Flies,
are leaders not only in Yellowstone region fly-fishing,
but also in conservation. –West Yellowstone blue-ribbon-flies.com
Reel angling
Gallatin River Guides owners Pat and Brandy Straub
run their guide shop just feet from the banks of the
Gallatin River (the river where Brad Pitt fished in A
River Runs Through It). They keep it “reel,” offering
trips and local tips to all angling levels, including kids.
–Big Sky montanaflyfishing.com
Cowboys and cutthroats
The Big Sky PBR: July 31 and August 1
Photo
by Jake Campos
94
Mountain
explorebigsky.com
Tim Wade lives in Cody because there are more than
1,500 miles of water within an hour drive. Guides
working for his outfitter, Northfork Anglers, pride
themselves on off-the-beaten-path adventures,
like fly-fishing pack trips by horseback. – Cody
northforkanglers.com
LIVINGSTON
BOZEMAN
GLAMPING
Roosevelt Lodge Cabins- YNP
Accommodations vary from simple cabins to even more rustic
versions, located in the northern region of Yellowstone Park. Family
style western cookouts and lack of internet or television allow you
to go back in time to true western tradition. -Yellowstone National
Park yellowstoneparklodges.com
Parade Rest Guest Ranch
Take in Yellowstone and the romance of the West with the
ranch’s horseback riding, fishing and western cookout allinclusive package. Only 10 minutes from the West Entrance,
this is the closest guest ranch to the park. – West Yellowstone
paraderestranch.com
RED LODGE
GARDINER
Luxury safari tents and tipis allow
you to feel the fresh air and hear
the sounds of the Rocky Mountain
world at night, without sacrificing
the pleasure of a comfortable
bed or a bathroom with running
hot water. This is glamping in its
truest form. –West Yellowstone
COOKE CITY
MONTANA
WYOMING
WEST
YELLOWSTONE
CODY
IDAHO
Yellowstone Under Canvas
yellowstoneundercanvas.com
BIG SKY
Yellowstone
National Park
TO JACKSON
UNIQUE ADVENTURES
Ziplining
Zip down Lone Mountain on four zip lines up to 1,500 feet long and
150 feet above ground. Expect beautiful mountain views as you glide
through the forest, and the possibility of seeing moose from above.
–Big Sky bigskyresort.com
Tram ride
Ride more than 4,000 vertical feet
in 15 minutes, to the summit of
Rendezvous Mountain at Jackson
Hole Mountain Resort. Take in
the 360-degree views including
the Grand Teton and the Snake
River, then hike around the peak
checking out wildflowers and
fossils before heading into Corbet’s Cabin for waffles. Insiders’ tip:
buy tickets online for the best price. –Jackson jacksonhole.com
Fishing the Gallatin River between Big Sky and West Yellowstone
Photo by Chris Davis
WHITEWATER RAFTING
Geyser Whitewater
Less than an hour from
the West Entrance,
choose your adventure
with Geyser, from a
relaxing, scenic float,
to heart racing class IV
rapids on the Gallatin
River. Plan to spend extra
time at the headquarters
with changing rooms, a
climbing wall, bike rentals,
gift shop and photo studio.
–Big Sky raftmontana.
com
Wyoming River Trips
Follow Buffalo Bill’s path
through the Red Rock Canyon
of the Shoshone. Depending
on water levels, kids as young
as 4 can participate. – Cody
wyomingrivertrips.com
Boiling River
An easy half-mile hike starting at the 45th parallel and crossing
state lines between Montana and Wyoming brings you to a natural
anomaly where a Yellowstone hydrothermal feature flows scalding
water into the frigid Gardner River. Wear your bathing suit and soak
in the contrasts. – Yellowstone National Park nps.gov
RODEOS
Big Sky PBR:
July 31- August 1
Sands Whitewater
Spend two days on the Snake
River with an overnight
trip. This 16-mile river trip
includes grand scenery,
rapids, a night in tipis, and
hot dinner and breakfast
by campfire. – Jackson
sandswhitewater.com
Voted “Event of the Year,”
the world class Big Sky
Professional Bull Riders event
brings top bulls, cowboys and
music for two nights. Montana
native rodeo clown Flint
Rasmussen keeps the crowd
entertained between riders,
while Hell’s Belles and the
Dirty Shame rock the stage
for free concerts after bulls
are done bucking. Insiders’
tip: tickets sell out for the
bull riding, but the concerts
are a worthwhile event of
their own accord. -Big Sky
explorebigsky.com/bigskypbr
explorebigsky.com
Cody Stampede
Running since 1919, the
Cody Stampede is a 4th of
July staple. The rodeo takes
place July 1-4, with additional
rodeos running all summer
long. Enjoy a full set of rodeo
events from bareback broncs
to steer wrestling and barrel
racing. -Cody
codystampederodeo.com
Jackson Hole Rodeo
Jackson, known for its cowboy
culture, hosts rodeos all
summer long. Family run for
three generations, the rodeo
is a western tradition.
–Jackson jhrodeo.com
Mountain
95
guide
Culture & Comfort of
Y E L L OW S T O N E
by Katie Morrison
“ To m o v e , t o b r e a t h e , t o f l y t o f l o a t ,
To g a i n a l l w h i l e y o u g i v e ,
To r o a m t h e r o a d s o f l a n d s r e m o t e ,
To t r a v e l i s t o l i v e . ”
– H a n s C h r i s t i a n An d e r s o n
g u ides of yellowstone
Guided tours of Yellowstone offer personal, in depth
knowledge of the wildlife, ecosystem and geology.
Y L o o p Ro a d Tr i p s
Mindful of the Yellowstone ecosystem, Y Loop
guides bring a scientific background, as well as
healthy lunches catered by the Whole Foods
Trading Company. Initiation points: Cody or Red
Lodge Ylooproadtrips.com
G r e at e r Y e ll ow s t o n e
Guides
Decades of YNP guide experience provide an
interesting and fun park tour. Optional: have a
guide accompany you in your vehicle, on your
schedule. Initiation Points: Bozeman, Big Sky, West
Yellowstone, Livingston and Gardiner
greateryellowstoneguides.com
96 Mountain
revitali z ing spas
After time in the car or out in the elements, spend time taking care of yourself.
H i k e r ’ s R e c ov e ry Pa c k a g e , H o t e l T e rr a
Recover from hiking and camping with an 80-minute massage that incorporates a custom
hand and foot treatment, plus arnica salve for sore muscles. – Jackson Hole
hotelterra.com
F a c e t h e M o u n ta i n ,
M o o n l i gh t B a s i n
Heal your skin after exposure to sun, wind
and temperature changes with this facial.
Ultra gentle marine extracts calm the skin
and stop reactivity. Family pick – let the
rest of your family enjoy the onsite pool
and deck with its cascading waterfall and
views of Lone Mountain, while you relax
in the sanctuary and steam room. – Big Sky
moonlightbasin.com
explorebigsky.com
western art galleries
The Yellowstone region is full of art districts that
capture the landscapes and culture of the West.
Jackson
Walk the town square to discover some of today’s
most well known western artists. A few of note:
Legacy Gallery – fine western art including artists such as Gary Lynn Roberts and John DeMott
legacygallery.com
Alta Mira Fine Art – A unique collection including works from September Vhay and R. Tom Gilleon. altamiraart.com
Big Sky
New and noteworthy for the region, Big Sky’s
Town Center has a growing gallery presence. They
include:
Creighton Block Gallery – an expanding
collection of fine art from notable artists such
as Kevin Red Star, Paula Pearl and Gary Carter
creightonblockgallery.com
Gallatin River Gallery – Owned by artist Julie
Gustafson and including a collection of mediums
from jewelry, paintings, photography and
sculptures gallatinrivergallery.com
R. Tom Gilleon “Mother Moon” Oil on Canvas 50x50. R. Tom Gilleon is represented at
Alta Mira Fine Art in Jackson and Creighton Block Gallery in Big Sky.
historic hotels
Feel the history of the Old West, sleeping in the same lodges as those
who traveled here more than a century ago.
m u se u ms
M u s e u m o f t h e Ro c k i e s
The museum is home to one of the largest collections of dinosaurs in
the world, an effort led by archeologist Jack Horner. Additionally,
it features a state of the art planetarium and children’s Explore
Yellowstone exhibit, making it a full day of fun for the whole family.
-Bozeman museumoftherockies.org
H ay n e s Ph o t o Sh o p
Opening this summer, the historic building shows off a trove of
photo and postcard reproductions to tell the story of Yellowstone’s
history. The site will also double as an informational resource center
for Yellowstone Park Foundation. -Yellowstone National Park ypf.org
B u ff a l o B i ll ’ s Irm a H o t e l
Established in 1902, this original hotel gives you a chance to
experience the Wild West. Watch one of the nightly gun fights out
front, or stay in Buffalo Bill’s suite. Locals’ tip: Room #13 is rumored
to be haunted. – Cody irmahotel.com
Ol d F a i t hf u l I n n
Built in 1904, the lodge adjacent to Old Faithful is one of the few
remaining log hotels in the US. Famous for it’s architecture and
craftsmanship, it is designed with the chaos of nature in mind.
Plan extra time to check it out, even if you don’t stay the night.
-Yellowstone National Park yellowstonenationalparklodges.com
Historic postcard of Angel Terrace by Frank J Haynes
explorebigsky.com
Mountain
97
A fresh pie from Ousel &
Spur Pizza Co., Big Sky
Photo by Tori Pintar
A small ‘taste’ of some of the great
restaurants that surround Yellowstone Park
North
Description
Website
Phone
Price
Location
Bridger Brewing
Craft beer, craft pizza
bridgerbrewing.com
(406) 587-2124
$-$$
Bozeman
Copper Whiskey Bar & Grill
Rustic, yet elegant
coppermontana.com
(406) 404-1700
$$
Bozeman
John Bozeman’s Bistro
30 years of great steak, seafood, service
johnbozemansbistro.com
(406) 587-4100
$$-$$$
Bozeman
The Emerson Grill
Award-winning outdoor dining
emersongrill.com
(406) 586-5247
$$-$$$
Bozeman
Nova Café
Voted Best Breakfast in Bozeman
thenovacafe.com
(406) 587-3973
$-$$
Bozeman
Starky’s
Modern American grill
starkysonline.com
(406) 556-1111
$$
Bozeman
2nd Street Bistro
Classic French Bistro, locally sourced
secondstreetbistro.com
(406) 222-9463
$$-$$$
Livingston
Gil’s Goods
Wood fired pizzas, sandwiches, baked goods
gilsgoods.com
(406) 222-4711
$
Livingston
Pinkys Café
Fun, fresh, homemade food
(406) 222-0668
$
Livingston
Yellowstone Valley Lodge
Riverside farm-to-table dining
(406) 333-4787
$$-$$$
Livingston
(307) 733-4422
$
Jackson
South
yellowstonevalleylodge.com
D.O.G. Down on Glen
Breakfast burritos, cheesesteaks, smoothies
Roadhouse Brewing Co.
Craft beer & comfort food
roadhousebrewery.com
(307) 739-0700
$$-$$$
Jackson
Corbets Cabin
Waffles atop the tram
jacksonhole.com
(307) 733-2292
$
Jackson
Teton Thai
Curry, noodles, yum
tetonthai.com
(307) 733-0022
$$-$$$
Jackson
Nikai Sushi
Asian-inspired cuisine
nikaisushi.com
(307) 734-6490
$$-$$$
Jackson
The Royal Wolf
Burgers, pub food, beer
theroyalwolf.com
(208) 354-8365
$$
Driggs
Blue Moon Bakery
Pizza, bakery, salads, beer
bigskybluemoonbakery.com
(406) 995-2305
$
Big Sky
Bucks T-4
Montana fare
buckst4.com
(406) 995-4111
$$-$$$
Big Sky
Choppers
Big Sky’s best burger
choppersbigsky.com
(406) 995-3830
$$
Big Sky
Corral
Montana steakhouse
corralbar.com
(406) 995-4249
$$-$$$
Big Sky
Olive B’s
Continental cuisine
olivebsbigsky.com
(406) 995-3355
$$-$$$
Big Sky
Ousel & Spur
Gourmet pizza
ouselandspurpizza.com
(406) 995-7175
$$
Big Sky
Rainbow Ranch
Montana fine dining
rainbowranchbigsky.com
(406) 995-4132
$$$
Big Sky
Café Madriz
Authentic Spanish tapas
explorebigsky.com/cafemadriz
(406) 646-9425
$-$$
W. Yellowstone
West
East/Northeast
Silver Dollar Bar
Burgers, roadhouse
(307) 527-7666
$$
Cody
Whole Foods Trading Co.
Healthy, organic local food, grocery & café
wholefoodstrading.com
(307) 587-3213
$
Cody
Bear Creek Saloon
A must see - food, drink & pig races
redlodge.com/bearcreek
(406) 446-3481
$$-$$$
Bearcreek
Red Lodge Ales Brewing Co.
Sandwiches, salads & microbrews
redlodgeales.com
(406) 446-4607
$
Red Lodge
Miners Saloon
Pizza, beer & mining museum
(406) 838-2214
$-$$
Cooke City
Buns n Beds
Deli sandwiches, malts & bbq
(406) 838-2030
$$
Cooke City
Log Cabin Café
Wholesome, hearty Western American fare
(406) 838-2125
$$
Silver Gate
98 Mountain
explorebigsky.com
thelogcabincafe.com
Price per entree: $ = $10 & under $$ = $11-20 $$$ = $20+
explorebigsky.com
Mountain
99
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port angeles, Wa
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100 Mountain
explorebigsky.com
history
the Haynes
legacy
lives on
Old Faithful Photo Shop helps
park visitors give back
By Maria Wyllie
On January 5, 1887, 13 men embarked from Mammoth on an
expedition through Yellowstone National Park. Five days in,
their leader, Arctic explorer Frederick Schwatka, fell ill traveling along the Gibbon River from Norris to the Firehole Hotel
and could go no further.
While most of the group waited to see if Schwatka would recover, the expedition’s photographer, Frank J. Haynes, pressed
on with a guide and two hearty outdoorsmen hired to handle
equipment.
The men used Canadian web snowshoes and 10-foot long,
four-inch wide Norwegian skis in the deep snow, towing
toboggans laden with heavy photographic
equipment and chemicals to develop photos in the field.
Frank J. Haynes during the 1887 expedition through Yellowstone
National Park NPS PHOTO
them for 72 hours. With little food and no extra clothing, they
almost died.
Finding a stand of small fir trees, they used their skis to dig a
snow pit for shelter and built a fire. When the skies cleared
two days later, they skied roughly 12 miles to Yancey’s Pleasant Valley Hotel just north of the TowerRoosevelt junction.
After resting there for a day, they made the
trek back to Mammoth on January 27, returning with 42 photographs documenting their
29-day, 200-mile journey.
Knowing his images would constitute
the first complete mid-winter portfolio of
Yellowstone, Haynes was determined to
photograph the Upper and Lower Geyser
Basins and Yellowstone Falls.
This collection of images from the harrowing
winter journey of 1887 is only part of the
Haynes legacy.
After reaching Canyon Hotel on January
20, where Haynes captured photos of the
Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone and the
Lower Falls on fragile, photographic plates,
he was hungry for more. Haynes decided
to lead his party northeast along the edge
of the Grand Canyon so he could photograph new winter sites.
They left Canyon on January 23 and began
climbing 10,243-foot Mount Washburn.
After only a few hours, a blinding snowstorm obscured all landmarks, trapping
Old Faithful Geyser, 1913. The Haynes
family published more than 55 million
YNP postcards from 1900 to 1966.
These postcards were hand-colored
and helped shape the perception of
YNP around the world. NPS Photo
Haynes first visited Yellowstone in 1881
while working as a photographer for the
Northern Pacific Railroad. Falling in love
with the park, he returned every summer
thereafter to photograph its wonders. In
1884, he secured the first commercial concessions in the park, and for the next 84 years,
his family operated 13 photo shops in the
park under the name Haynes, Inc. In 1900,
they began selling “penny postals,” cards
depicting iconic Yellowstone scenes that cost
only a penny.
explorebigsky.com
Mountain
101
history
visitors starting this summer. Originally built by Jack in 1927,
the restored structure, known as the Old Faithful Haynes
Photo Gallery, is now LEED-certified. Its mission is twofold:
honoring the Haynes family and helping fundraise for the
park.
A modern, interactive exhibit offers an interpretive history,
telling the Haynes’ story and the role photography played in
establishing the park and promoting tourism there.
Another informs visitors about YPF, the park’s official fundraising partner since 1995. Although the foundation has raised
more than $70 million for the park it has never had a facility there. In this exhibit, whimsical 19th century aesthetics
juxtapose 21st century technology to explain YPF’s strategic
initiatives heard through vintage phone receivers and seen on
modern video screens.
Yellowstone National Park Deputy Superintendent Steve
Iobst, who oversaw the restoration, says the shop’s proximity
to the Old Faithful Inn should help YPF reach a captive audience.
The National Park Service preserved the historic Old Faithful Photo Shop and
in 2011 moved it from its original location at the Old Faithful Auto Camp to a
spot near the Old Faithful Visitor Education Center. YPF paid to restore the
interior through a $4 million fundraising campaign. Photos courtesy of YPF
A new book, The Haynes Family in Yellowstone National Park:
1881-1968 by Susan and Jack Davis, explains that the postcards
had a broad impact, introducing Yellowstone’s natural wonders
and beauty to America – and the rest of the world – during a
time when few had visited the park.
It was Frank Haynes’ son Jack who was responsible for the
postcards’ popularity. He developed the idea of the “Haynes
100 Series,” a collection of postcards arranged by number that
followed the “grand loop tour” around the park.
After assuming ownership of Haynes, Inc. in 1916, Jack
managed the business until his death in 1962. He earned the
nickname “Mr. Yellowstone” for his longtime commitment to
the park – from business to conservation and education.
102
By mixing technology with a vintage look and feel, the space
invites tourists to step back in time and imagine Yellowstone
in the early 1900s. The welcome desk is a Haynes original,
and reproductions of Frank Haynes’ photography equipment
are displayed alongside antique souvenirs, such as the Haynes
Guides, which were the first Yellowstone guidebooks to use
photographs.
A digital darkroom allows guests to upload their Yellowstone
photos in real time, email them or temporarily become part of
the exhibit by displaying their photos on the electronic entry
wall.
Whether visitors have their picture taken in the Haynes photo
op, which uses a vintage postcard image for the background, or
watch Old Faithful erupt through vintage cameras, they will
play a role in both preserving and continuing the park’s photographic history – one that was nearly buried on the steeps of
Mt. Washburn 126 years ago.
Find more about the Old Faithful Haynes Photo Gallery at ypf.org.
“He took a strong interest in preserving its natural wonders
and quality of its character,” wrote the Davises.
More information on the Haynes family:
“At the Greatest Personal Peril to the Photographer,” by William Lang, Montana: The Magazine of
Western History, 1983 winter edition.
The National Park Service, through a partnership with the
Yellowstone Park Foundation, has restored one of the Haynes’
operations, the Old Faithful Photo Shop, and is opening it to
The Haynes Family in Yellowstone National Park:
1881-1968, by Susan and Jack Davis, 2013.
Mountain
explorebigsky.com
Creighton Block
B IG SK Y’S MOST EXTEN S I V E
FINE A RT COL L ECTION
EVERY THURSDAY AT 4:30 PM
provided by
Kevin Red Star “Buffalo Tipi,” Acr ylic on Canvas, 48x60
Ar twork also displayed at Outlaw Par tners, Bozeman Audi Big Sky
Showroom, Lone Mountain Ranch and Rainbow Ranch
11:00 AM - 7:00 PM // TUESDAY THRU SUNDAY
MONDAYS BY APPOINTMENT
Please visit the galler y to view our extensive collection
of fine works of ar t in the Main Galler y, the Charsam
Room, and the new Private Collection.
L O C ATE D IN TH E BI G SKY TOW N C ENTER O N THE C ORNER OF L ONE P E AK D R I V E
Mountain
C R E I G H TO N B L O C K G A L L E R Y. Cexplorebigsky.com
O M | (406) 993-9400
103
adventure
Run to the hills
By Marcie Hahn-Knoff
It began as a conversation between friends
traveling far from home.
Their idea was to bring a world-class mountain running event to Montana, a challenging race that would attract an international
field of competitors and act as an avenue to
show off the beauty and wildness of their
home state.
And so began Mike Foote and Mike Wolfe’s
journey to the start line of the newest ultra
marathon mountain run in Montana – The
Rut 50K.
Mike Wolfe and Mike Foote scouting the course for The Rut on Lone Mountain. Photo by Nick Wolcott
difficult when dealing with different
government agencies and permitting.”
Wolfe and Foote, or the ‘Mikes’ as
they’re affectionately called, are
accomplished ultra-runners both
sponsored by The North Face and
both residents of Missoula. The
men have traveled the world for
50- and 100-mile ultramarathons,
pushing and supporting each other
along the way.
Now, they will serve as co-directors
for The Rut, a 50-kilometer mountain race set for September 2013 in
Big Sky.
“The idea had been getting tossed
around for years – it became a matter
of finding the right venue,” said
Foote, 29, a former ski patroller at
Moonlight Basin. “Holding a race
of this distance and caliber… can be
104
Mountain
Foote, who works as race director for
a specialty running shop in Missoula,
Runner’s Edge, began researching
venue options in late 2011. Though
The Rut is the brainchild of Foote and
Wolfe, when owner Anders Booker
offered to add the event to the shop’s
organized races for the year, the idea
began to grow legs.
The Mikes had a feeling that Big Sky
would be a perfect location, and when
they scouted their potential racecourse on Lone Mountain for the first
time in July 2012, they were sold.
Soon after, they approached Lyndsey
Owens, Director of Marketing at Big
explorebigsky.com
Sky Resort and an avid mountain runner herself.
“When they brought me the idea,
I said, ‘Yes! Let’s figure out how to
make this happen,’” Owens said.
“This is the kind of event that enlivens the town. It is a win-win for
everyone.”
After several days of scouting and
mapping the course, the Mikes decided to hold the race in September,
when the weather is cooler and generally stable.
“As it happens, this is also the time of
year that the elk are in rut – thus the
inspiration for the name,” said Foote,
explaining that the rut is another
word name for elk mating season, the
explorebigsky.com
Mountain
105
12
= mile marker
16
20
Watching the action
Spectators can view the start
and finish of the race from the
Big Sky Mountain Village, and
also access the summit of Lone
Mountain to cheer on their favorite racers via Lone Peak Tram
Expedition.
8
Course MAP
Ultramarathon
24
28
48
4
44
36
40
32
time of year when bulls bugle to show
dominance.
Wolfe, 35, who grew up hunting in the
mountains around Bozeman and Big Sky,
remembers old timers sharing stories
about fall elk camp near the foot of Lone
Mountain. While running there last fall,
he saw elk sign everywhere.
“There is magic to the elk rut,” Wolfe
said. “It’s like having front row seats to
something pre-historic, a view into the
heart of the wild. We want the race to
have that same raw, exciting and passionate feel.”
The race starts and ends at Big Sky
Mountain Village (elevation 7,510 feet),
gaining and losing 8,000 feet over its entirety, and working its way up and down
11,166-foot Lone Mountain, 8,850-foot
Andesite, and traversing through the
neighboring Moonlight Basin property.
It follows single-track trails through
106
Mountain
whitebark pine forests and along exposed
ridgelines, pounding up dirt double-track
roads and scrambling through challenging off trail sections.
There will also be a 12-kilometer course.
Both will be capped at 200 participants.
“We designed the Rut 50K to be as
technical and challenging as [what] you
would experience on a mountain course in
Europe,” Wolfe says. “We have mountains
in Montana that rival any others in the
world.”
More at runtherut.com
Writer Marcie Hahn-Knoff, who has
twice run the 19.7-mile Bridger Ridge
Run, works as a broker with Winter and
Company Real Estate. She wrote about
Big Sky’s skiing pioneers for the 20122013 winter issue in “Under the spell of
Lone Mountain: 40 years down the road.”
explorebigsky.com
What is an ultramarathon?
Set mostly in the mountains, ultramarathons are 50 kilometers
(31 miles) or more, compared to
a road marathon at 26.2 miles.
Unlike many mountain sports,
trail running is accessible to
almost anyone, says Sarah
(Evans) McCloskey, a Utahbased ultra runner with a clutch
of impressive finishes.
“All shapes and sizes of people
compete in trail running,” she
says, noting that walking is OK,
especially on uphills. “If you
need to, take a break and just
enjoy where you are.”
Training is key, McCloskey says,
but you don’t need to run 30
miles a day.
“Mixing up your mileage and
shooting for about 40 miles a
week is a good goal… Running
an ultramarathon is pretty
much a mental game. You just
have to keep going.”
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“The food you eat can
be either the safest
and most powerful
form of medicine, or
the slowest form
of poison.”
– Ann Wigmore
health
Fact or fad?
By Ashley Allan
What is gluten?
Gluten is the group of proteins found in
barley, oats, rye and wheat that give flour
its stickiness. Prevalent in the American
diet, it can be found in foods prepared with
these sources, as well as in prescription
medications and food additives.
As an additive, it’s used to boost protein
levels, and create a light, chewy texture.
Other grains containing gluten include
spelt, kamut, triticale, farro and einkorn.
While oats don’t contain gluten, they’re
often cross-contaminated and generally
contain it unless labeled otherwise.
Why is gluten becoming an issue?
Gluten has been part of the human diet for
10,000 years, since humans first began cultivating crops. Before that time, we didn’t
survive on agriculture – rather a hunter/
gatherer diet with fewer grains and cereals.
Cafe Madriz in West Yellowstone serves authentic Spanish
cuisine including many glutenfree options. Pictured here: tortilla española, a classic Spanish
potato, onion and egg omelet.
Photo by the Outlaw Partners
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Gluten intolerance is becoming increasingly common, and Celiac disease, an autoimmune disorder caused by an immunologic
intolerance to gluten, affects 3 million
Americans.
“Changes in farming and dietary practices,
excessive pharmaceutical use, globalization
and the effects of our modern lifestyle all
play a role,” says Dr. Holcomb John-
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ston, a naturopathic doctor and owner of
Sweetgrass Natural Medicine in Bozeman.
A study published in 2011 in BioMed
Central Medicine attributes the rise in
gluten intolerance to humans’ lack of the
proper genes to digest it. The study also
examines the possibility that modern
wheat may in fact be more toxic than its
ancestors.
“The selection of wheat varieties with
higher gluten content has been a continuous process during the last 10,000
years,” it reports, noting that wheats
grown before the Middle Ages contained
smaller amounts of the “highly toxic 33mer gluten peptide.” A molecule of approximately 50 amino acids, this peptide
is responsible for initiating the inflammatory response to gluten in people with
Celiac disease, according to the study.
This stronger form has been labeled as
“super-gluten” by many health professionals and is responsible for the lighter,
fluffier bread products that many people
have come to expect from these foods.
Adding to the issues, Johnston says, our
culture’s growing reliance on antibiotics
and disinfectants can cause a decline in
the antibodies needed to fight off invaders, “which is how the body sees gluten.”
health
Why do some people seem to be affected while others are not?
Genes can contribute to gluten intolerance
and Celiac disease, but people aren’t necessarily born with it. Environmental factors
can trigger it, as well.
Dr. Mark Hyman, MD, is a family practice
physician and creator of a whole body
approach to health known as “Functional
Medicine.” An advocate for a gluten-free
diet, Hyman refers to gluten as a “silent
killer.”
“Genes are turned on and off by environment,” Johnston says. “Just because you
have the gene for something, doesn’t always
mean you are going to get that something.
What we bathe our cells, and essentially
[our] DNA in, will greatly affect the messages sent throughout our body.” And we
bathe our cells in what we eat.
In “Gluten: What you don’t know might
kill you,” an article published in 2011 on
his website, Hyman maintains that while 99
percent of sick people don’t relate their illness to ingesting gluten, at least 55 diseases
are caused by gluten. Gluten intolerance
causes inflammation, he says, which in turn
leads to disease in the body.
Stress, Johnston says, which affects nearly
everyone, directly impacts our digestion.
We don’t allow our system adequate time
to ‘rest and digest’ and often rush through
meals due to time constraints. Similarly,
stress affects anti-inflammatory and inflammatory pathways, which can lead to an
increase in allergic or allergic-type reactions
– like gluten intolerance.
How does gluten make you feel?
Gluten-free diets have surged in popularity,
in part as a response to our inability to digest
this new form of gluten.
Symptoms of gluten intolerance
Gas, bloating, constipation, diarrhea, abdominal pain, weight gain (or loss), fatigue,
headaches, depression, lack of mental clarity, irritability and skin rashes are common
signs of gluten intolerance.
In Celiac disease, the small intestine cannot
digest or absorb food due to sensitivity of
the intestinal lining to gliadin, a protein in
gluten; this causes the digestive and absorptive cells of the intestine to atrophy.
Recent studies have shown gluten to be associated with other disorders including type
1 diabetes, rheumatoid arthritis, osteoporosis, irritable bowel syndrome, Hashimoto’s,
Addison’s disease, multiple sclerosis, cancer
and other autoimmune diseases.
One way to learn how your body reacts to
gluten is by eliminating it from your diet
for 2-4 weeks and seeing how you feel when
you introduce it back into your diet.
INGREDIENTS YOU MAY NOT
REALIZE CONTAIN GLUTEN
If you’re trying to avoid gluten, it’s important to
read food labels. Watch out for ingredients like
natural flavor, monosodium glutamate (MSG),
caramel coloring, emulsifiers, malt, hydrolyzed (vegetable or wheat) protein, cereal,
binder, couscous, durum, semolina, seitan and
modified food starch.
ALTERNATIVES
Wheat alternatives include quinoa, millet,
amaranth, buckwheat, rice, corn, sorghum,
teff, kasha, garbanzo and coconut flour. It’s
best to rotate the foods you eat: Anything you
consume on a regular basis could potentially
turn into an allergy. Try new things; eat a rainbow of colors at every meal and always listen
to your body.
MORE INFORMATION
gluten.net, celiac.com
No gluten = no bread? No way.
Not to worry, bread lovers, there is life after death on the gluten-free
path, thanks to Boulder, Colorado-based Rudi’s Bakery. Since 1976,
Rudi’s has mastered the art of gluten-free baking, using wholesome all
natural and organic ingredients including sunflower seeds, millet, fiber
and flax. Other products include tortillas, pizza crusts and buns. rudisbakery.com/gluten-free
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Photo by Ashley Allan
GLUTEN-FREE RECIPE:
Socca Bread
Ingredients:
1c garbanzo bean (chickpea) flour
1c water
1 T olive oil (optional)
1 t salt
Dried herbs of choice – cumin,
basil, coriander and rosemary are
some savory choices; cinnamon is
great if you want a sweeter taste.
Directions: Combine all ingredients in a bowl and whisk together.
Let sit for at least an hour at room
temperature. The longer you let
it sit, the better the consistency
will be.
Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Line
a 9-10-inch round baking pan with
parchment paper (alternately,
you can coat bottom of pan with
coconut oil to prevent sticking).
Pour batter into pan and cook
for 35-40 minutes until crust is
cooked through (use a toothpick
to test the inside; if batter sticks,
keep cooking). The top should be
golden or dark brown.
Serving: Eat as is; use as bread
for sandwiches; or substitute
for crackers or pizza crust. Try it
topped with avocado and fresh basil and cilantro; add maple syrup/
honey, cinnamon and fresh fruit; or
try adding chocolate chips to make
a cookie dough. The possibilities
are endless – enjoy!
This recipe and others can be
found at ashleyhealthcoach.com.
Mountain
109
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culture
art from earth
washington wineries bottling perfection
By kurt Erickson
I zip open my tent and step into the crisp
April morning. My breath dissipates
skyward as the sun rises over the andesite
ridgeline that makes the Naches Heights of
Washington famous among geologists and
unique to winegrowers.
My campsite sits atop the climbing bluffs at Wilridge Vineyard,
which are rigged with anchors
for top roping the ancient lava
that plunged from the Goat
Rocks near Mount Rainier
millions of years ago.
Stepping to the edge, I
peer into the shadows
of Cowiche Canyon.
I long
Bud break on Naches Heights
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to rappel down like I have the previous
two days, but my sense of timing says no.
Today may be the only chance to capture a
magical moment in the vineyards behind me.
The vines have waited months for the sun to
beckon their florets open and drink in the light.
Each blossom holds the potential to produce one
luscious grape and with it the dreams of men who
devote their lives to crafting wine from juice, art
from Earth.
I dash to the tent, grab my camera and take my
position among the vines. The only sound to be
heard, as the clusters open wide, is the snap of the
camera’s shutter.
The sound shocks me back to the present, to Pike
Place Market in Seattle.
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113
culture
The vines have waited months for the sun to
beckon their florets open and drink the light.
I was caught in a flashback to a trip I
took last week. Since returning from
Afghanistan, profound images seem
burned upon my retina – some ugly,
others beautiful – and they often reappear as flashbacks. I calm my nerves
and smile, remembering last week’s
vineyard in bloom.
Camera in hand, I meander past
fishmongers laden with the morning
catch, past bushels of produce shining
in the sun. A street performer plucks
his banjo, and the scent of coffee and
fresh pastries wafts through the air. I
step between bouquets of multicolored tulips and watch a cheesemaker
in her apron separating the curd.
I cross the street, then pause to
watch ferries on Elliott Bay moving
through the morning mist. Passing
Kell’s, a little Irish pub still closed
after last night’s revelry, I turn onto
the cobblestones of Post Alley and
stop outside the wooden doors of The
Tasting Room Seattle.
A cooperative venture in the heart
of this world-class market, the tasting
room showcases more than 60 Washington wines of exceptional quality,
from craftsmen who are changing their
industry. Among them: a pioneer, a
visionary, a newcomer and a rebel.
Here, in this microcosm of the Pacific
Northwest, their stories and craft mingle with a grape’s potential, culminating
in bottled perfection.
The Pioneer:
Paul Beveridge
Wilridge Winery and The
Tasting Room Seattle
Wilridge Vineyard and Tasting Room sits
next to an extensive network of hiking and
mountain biking trails.
A tireless winemaker, entrepreneur and practicing attorney in
“Beveridge Law,” as he calls it, Paul
Beveridge is the pioneering force
behind The Tasting Room Seattle
and Wilridge Winery. Over the
past 25 years, Beveridge has led
a number of efforts to open the
marketplace to small wineries and
make the industry more energy
efficient.
“It’s sad commentary on the state
of our laws that my legal training
has been so important to the success of our winery,” he said.
Beveridge aims to make Wilridge the “greenest winery in
the Northwest” with refillable
bottles, biodynamic farming and
by utilizing solar power at the
Naches Heights vineyard near
Yakima. With climbing bluffs on
the grounds, as well as campsites,
hiking, biking and horseback
riding trails, fire pits, barbecues
and an outdoor sauna, Wilridge
appeals to a different type of wine
enthusiast.
Beveridge’s true calling, however,
is winemaking: From his Pinot
Grigio and Viognier whites, to
his stunning Nebbiolo and Red
Mountain Mélange, the wines
exhibit excellent balance and
acidity, showcasing the ripeness
and abundance of fruit character
indicative of Washington terroir.
L: Wilridge is an outdoor destination for the whole family. R: The Tasting Room Seattle, in Pike Place Market, offers more than 60 Washington wines.
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The Visionary:
Don Corson
Camaraderie Cellars
Camaraderie Cellars offers more than just
delicious wines.
with Washington grape growers
like Fred Artz of the Red Mountain
American Viticultural Area and
Paul Champoux from the Rattlesnake
Hills AVA, both of whom are now
world-renowned for their quality vineyards and have been mainstay vineyard
partners with Camaraderie since its
doors opened in the early 1990s.
“Paul [Beveridge] and I were here at
the beginning,” Corson said, noting
that they were among the first 50
bonded wineries in the state, which
now has more than 750.
Geographer Don Corson, Ph.D,
opened Camaraderie Cellars near the
Port Angeles entrance to Olympic
National Park, which draws more
than three million visitors annually
to the peninsula west of Seattle.
“Washington grape growing is like a
constellation that continues to add
stars.” Washington, with its wide
range of microclimates and long
growing season, can ripen nearly
every grape varietal.
Corson and his wife Vicki knew
that even in the Olympic Peninsula’s wet climate, “People in this part
of the country view recreation more
for re-creation,” he said. “When
they visit us, they are looking for an
authentic Northwest experience.”
The rich layering of the Camaraderie Bordeaux-style blends is without equal. My personal favorite,
called Grâce, allowed the cellar to
spread its wings, and the wines are
now sold in restaurants like Bobby
Flay’s in Manhattan, Oenophilia
in Chicago, and nationwide at the
retailer Total Wine and More.
Corson’s vision began in the early
1980s, as he built relationships
The Newcomer:
Timothy Narby
Nota Bene Cellars
Nota Bene Cellars blends a love of aircraft
and wine craft.
The newest additions to The Tasting
Room Seattle’s repertoire include the
exceptional wines of Timothy Narby,
winemaker and owner of Nota Bene
Cellars.
Although he may be the new kid in
Post Alley, Narby, who specializes
in reds, has been crafting award-winning wines since 2001.
“We’re all red, all the time!” he said.
A long-time Boeing engineer, Narby’s
winemaking experience comes largely
from his time with the Boeing Wine
Club. This group’s passion for both
aircraft and wine craft has propelled
several in their ranks to open wineries.
Nota Bene Cellars is located in South
Seattle not far from Boeing Field;
however it sources extraordinary
fruit from places like the Ciel du
Cheval vineyard on Red Mountain
and the Dineen vineyard in Yakima
Valley.
Sunrise to sunset at Wilridge Vineyard in Yakima, Washington
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115
culture
where the Outdoor adventurer
meets the wine enthusiast
the outspoken and passionate owner
of Willis Hall Winery in Marysville,
Washington.
This rebel has a cause, and in addition, staggering winemaking talent.
His mouth-watering Syrah explodes
with rich, dark berry character and
lingers on the palette with loads of
spice and vanilla.
John Bell, owner of Willis Hall Winery, and
the author at the Tasting Room Seattle
Many in the wine industry view John
Bell as a rebel. He embraces the title.
“It irritates me when people stand
between me and my freedom,” says
Together with pioneer Paul Beveridge, Bell became a key member
of Family Wineries of Washington
State, a group that represents the
interests of small wineries, which are
often overwhelmed by the legislation
surrounding the industry.
These combined efforts against the
“Department of No!” as John calls it,
have led the Washington State Liquor
Washington
“
Control Board to re-examine its views
on many issues, including cooperative tasting rooms like The Tasting
Room Seattle.
“We needed to band together,
otherwise we would never survive,” Bell said. “It’s a very collegial
atmosphere amongst the little guys.
If my pump broke down during bottling, for instance, I would have 10
winemakers offering to bring their
pumps over in an hour.”
Kurt Erickson is an experienced
winemaker and wine professional
who most recently served as a sniper
team leader in the US Army. He
returned from a deployment to
Afghanistan in January 2013 and
now makes his home in western
Washington.
People in this part
of the country view
recreation more
for re-creation.
Don Corson, Owner of
Camaraderie Cellars
116 Mountain
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“
The Rebel:
John Bell
Willis Hall Winery
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Artisan
Sh e lly B e rm o n t
Custom Jewelry
Shelly Bermont in her Big Sky studio. Photo by Kelsey Dzintars
By Emily Stifler
size. In another, South Sea and Tahitian pearls tumble
together.
Shelly Bermont kneels on the floor of her jewelry studio
in Big Sky, Montana, sifting through a drawer of turquoise.
“I love natural stones, the fact that I can take these beautiful things in nature and create something you can wear
and enjoy,” she says. “When I can’t figure out what to
do, I just open up these drawers.”
Her turquoise, Sleeping Beauty, is a gem-quality stone
sourced mostly in Arizona, known for its pure, sky-blue
color. The drawers are organized by stone type, value and
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Mountain
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“There is a 2,000-mile stretch of sea around Tahiti where
mollusks grow and produce Tahitian pearls,” Bermont
says, lifting a strand. The jeweler is known for her work
with these pearls, their colors ranging from light silver to
black, green and some that are almost purple.
Bermont, 60, earned a degree in fine art from the University of North Florida and has studied gold-smithing
in Montana, California and Arizona. She designs the
pearl line for Underwood, a renowned luxury jeweler in
Florida, as well as custom pieces for clients, and her own
Colleen Williams, a news anchor for NBC Los Angeles and a
Big Sky homeowner, loves Bermont’s work.
“She has the best pearls I’ve ever seen. They’re such spectacular pieces in their simplicity. In fact, one of my favorites I
actually bought right off of her. It’s a mixture you wouldn’t
expect – leather and pearls.”
Williams’ lariat has a large pearl drop she can wear long or
double over short.
“It’s been to Europe, it’s in my wardrobe in LA, and I certainly
wear it when I come to Big Sky… It’s sturdy, versatile and
elegant… I trust her taste.”
Jewelry, Bermont says, is personal – not one-size-fits-all.
signature line featuring raw diamonds, large pearls,
and 18 and 22 carat gold.
“I love melting gold,” Bermont says. “Once I started
forming metal, that gave me the ability to do whatever I want.”
The former print model and flight attendant splits
her time between Los Angeles and Big Sky. In what
she calls her previous life – in Miami, punctuated by
black tie events – big, formal jewelry was the norm.
But eventually, she found that unsatisfying.
“I look at the person’s lifestyle, coloring, bone structure and
what they wear. You want something flattering for you…
[something] classic that you’ll wear forever.”
Bermont sells her work at wholesale in Montana. Call her for a
private appointment – (406) 548-4477, or find her at
shellybermont.com. “I thought it was a shame to have beautiful stuff
that just sits in the bank. I wanted to be able to wear
it during the daytime, with my jeans, and not look
ostentatious.”
So she started taking it apart, redesigning her own
jewelry and her girlfriends’, setting the stones in
more casual arrangements.
“A lot of things come in and go out of style,”
Bermont says. “I think jewelry shouldn’t be one of
those.”
Beth Stein, a Nashville, Tennessee resident who summers
in Big Sky, has a custom necklace by Bermont that was
a gift from her husband. It’s a leather lariat with a gold,
hand-hammered snake wrapped around it, big pearls
hanging from each end and a second snake as the clasp.
“There’s something almost sinister about it,” Stein said. “I
get more comments on that piece of jewelry than anything
I’ve ever had, because it’s so unusual. It’s very understated,
but it’s magnificent.”
Shelly Bermont’s necklace and earrings made with Sleeping Beauty turquoise.
PHOTO BY JAKE CAMPOS
Left: Bermont is known for her work with Tahitian Pearls. Their colors range
from light silver to black, green and some that are almost purple.
OUTLAW PARTNERS PHOTO
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119
featured outlaw
Buckskin Bill
The eccentric mountain man
By Megan Paulson
On the banks of the Salmon River, 52 miles into Idaho’s Frank
Church River of No Return Wilderness, lived a man so captivating that Sports Illustrated published a 6,000-word feature
on him in 1966.
“On the River of No Return, in the country named Light on
the Mountains, there lives a gray-bearded man who has turned
back time,” wrote Harold Peterson. “At Five Mile Bar, beyond
which no human soul dwells, Jedediah Smith and Christopher Carson have but recently passed by, and the year is 1844
forever.”
Born Sylvan Hart in Oklahoma Territory in 1906, Buckskin
was a mountain man at heart and in his craft: resourceful,
independent and artistic. From ornate carvings on hand-made
knives and guns bored with a homemade machine, to mining
and smelting copper and creating tools and utensils, he had a
knack for living off the land.
Illustration by Kelsey Dzintars
Buckskin spent more than 40 years living on his
Salmon River homestead, fishing, hunting wild elk
and bear, mining gold and copper, making wine from
local fruit, and cultivating an elaborate 10,000-squarefoot garden.
Those who met Buckskin on the river knew him as an
odd and humorous man. The rangers who frequented
the Salmon gave him his nickname, after the handmade deer hide clothing he wore with the hair on the
inside, next to his skin. Rumor has it, the smell from
the tanned skin clothing was quite rank, justifying the
alias “Buckskin Bill.”
Buckskin built a stone watchtower on the hillside above his cabin,
defending the homestead from government acquisition and U.S. Forest Service enforcement. Inset: View of the Main Salmon River from
the watchtower. Photos by Megan Paulson
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The oldest of six children, Buckskin was averse to
civilization even as a boy. He left Oklahoma during
the Great Depression to work in the Texas oilfields,
then earned an English degree at the University of
Oklahoma and began a master's program in petroleum
engineering, but never finished.
In 1932, at age 26, he traveled with his father to Five Mile
Bar on the Salmon River from McCall, Idaho, which required a two-and-a-half hour drive to the old mining town
of Warren, then a 14-hour hike over 20 miles of rugged
trail. They bought 50 acres of land for $1 and lived there a
number of years before the elder Hart left, seeking a connection to society.
During World War II, Buckskin tried to enlist in the Army,
but medical exams found an enlarged heart, so he worked
instead as a civilian at the Boeing factory in Kansas. Returning to Five Mile Bar not long after, he settled for good on
the banks of the Salmon.
When a conservation movement led by Howard Zahniser in 1956 tried to designate the area surrounding the
homestead a Primitive Area, precluding human habitation,
Buckskin built a stone watchtower on the hillside above
his cabin to defend against government acquisition and
U.S. Forest Service enforcement.
While much of the land became designated Wilderness in
the Wilderness Act of 1964, the feds left Buckskin alone,
and he lived at the outpost until his death in 1980.
To this day, the watchtower and the compound’s hand-hewn
log cabins, root cellar and underground bomb shelter remain
intact, maintained as a museum for floaters on the Salmon
River. Visiting the mountain man’s home today, one can sense
Buckskin’s presence and understand the pride he must have
felt living in this remote and beautiful place.
Above: Buckskin’s collection of hand-made tools
Below: Just a few of Buckskin Bill’s animal skulls
Visit Buckskin Bill
Buckskin’s compound
at Five Mile Bar is a
must-stop while rafting
the Main Salmon River,
Idaho. Visitors can see
the homestead of 40
years, outbuildings,
gardens and many of
his hand-made tools
and equipment.
Tips:
Grab a Black Butte Porter Ice Cream Float from the gift
shop.
Watch the 1963 ABC Wide World of Sports video at the museum to see Buckskin Bill shoot his handmade, 3-gauge
rifle and ammunition. It literally knocks him off his seat.
Jot down Buckskin’s famous sourdough starter mix from
his hand-written recipe in the old cabin. Buckskin recommends fresh huckleberries for the topping.
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featured outlaw
Buckskin Bill spent more than 40
years living on his Salmon River
homestead, fishing, hunting wild elk
and bear, mining gold and copper,
making wine from local fruit, and cultivating an elaborate 10,000-squarefoot garden.
Photo by Buddy Mays
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W E
U n d E R S TA n d
T H E A L LU R E O F T H E RO C K I E S
“It was nearing dusk
and time for the horses to be brought in for the night. I circled around the pasture calling
for them to herd up and head toward the corrals. As they began to gather, the sheer rock
face framed them from behind, until they began to run. I caught stride behind them,
the sky in front was purple, the mountain peaks so jagged and the freshly cut hay field
stretched for half a mile ahead; their hooves pounding in the silence.
I was overwhelmed by freedom…”
Aust I n R ec toR
President of Stoa Management
Notes from Wyoming, 2009
At stoa Management, we understand
why our clients are compelled to build a
life in the Rocky Mountains. We listen,
we ask questions, and we develop a
management team that is customized to
fit our client’s specific needs.
Providing owner’s representation that combines diligent
problem solving and solution
based management of complex, multi-faceted construction and development projects.
StoaManagement.com | Austin@ StoaManagement.com | PO Box 10563 • Bozeman, MT 59719
mt: 406.579.4914 | wy: 307.622.1533 | co: 303.872.8493
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Mountain
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“Whether you’re traveling across the world or taking
your kids to school, Toyota reliability is second to none.”
– Clay Croft, Adventure Traveler and Overlander
greatest durability
Toyota has the
of any full-line automotive manufacturer.
NEW 2013 TOYOTA TUNDRA
NEW 2013 TOYOTA TACOMA
(866) 533-2165
8476 Huffine Lane Bozeman, MT 59718
www.toyotaofbozeman.com
124
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DurabilityMountain
based on longevity. Longevity based on Polk U.S. Vehicles
In Operation registration statistics MY 1987-2012 as of October 2012. Full-line manufacturer based on car, SUV, minivan, compact and full-size pickup.