the dealers` guide to chemical restoration of postage stamps

THE DEALERS' GUIDE
TO CHEMICAL RESTORATION
OF POSTAGE STAMPS
PREFACE
It is the purpose of this guide to provide the Stamp Dealers (in
fact the entire collecting body) with Information on the basic, yet
simplified techniques of philatelic chemistry, so that they may be
cognizant of the means by which they may improved the
appearance of those stamps which may be stained in their own
private collection. When a collector or dealer, äs it may be,
purchases a stamp for his collection, the stamp may have
acquired certain unattractive blemishes, stains, accretions or
other extraneous material which is displeasing to the philatelists
eye when presented within a collection.
To improve the value of a collection by methodically purchasing
stamps of pristine quality is a constant aim of every true collector.
While the dealer is in an advantageous position to do so, he is
often confronted with the most difficult decision; to purchase the
unused stamp free of stains, or to purchase the mint stamp with
stains. Only the auctioneer knows the consequences of this
decision on the bidding floor. The dealer concentrates on the
margins, centering andperforations with additional emphasis on
the freshness of the stamp. His preliminary examination is
followed up by dose examination under ultra violet rays. Almost
every fault that is embodied within the stamp, invisibly, will show
either under The Lamp or within The Juice. Crossing into this
Region ofthe Unknown, we are faced with a complex judgement:
ignorance is bliss! Were a collector or dealer to lamper with the
very fibers of the stamp 's body for the purpose of monetary gain,
he certainly would be misinterpreting the condition of that stamp,
since he altered the physical structure of the fibers in an attempt
to increase it's value. In effect, he affected the body of the stamp
by synthesizing the fiber work. Conversely, it is not considered
unethical to approve the appearance of a stamp by discharging
gum or dirt in boiling water, by discharging grease stains in
benzene or carbon tetrachloride, or by restoring colour on
sulphuretted stamps with dilute hydrogen peroxide. When the
Philatelist dips a stamp in water mark fluid in an attempt to
observe the water mark, whatever eise he does, he is in fact
cleaning
the stamp. This universally accepted treatment of stamps does clean,
restore, freshen, remove and loosen many stains and extraneous
materials. This "juice" äs it is referred to is but one of many reagents
which can remove many unsightly stains that have occurred over long
periods of time, or by careless handling of liquids and other foreign
materials. Such are displeasing to the collectors natural desire to
honour the Vignette which he presents on his album page. Decades of
mishandling, exposure to the elements, sulphuration, oxidation,
fingertip oll discolouration or the likes, frustrate the Dealer Collector's
attempts to compile stain free material. Very simply, to restore the face
of a stamp which has been in advertently marred by stain, for the
purpose of enhancing the very spirit of collecting, is no more harmfui to
the profession than soaking or dipping or dehinging.
It is not the intent of this Guide to provide means to fraudulently
misrepresent the actual condition of a stamp which might later be so/,
since any attempt to do so would be in violation of the code of ethics,
and the principle and fundamentals of the Philatelie Societies and
Associations. In fact, no material presented herein is intended for the
illegal removal of cancellations, overprints of surcharges, orcolour
changelings of stamps. Any attempt to relate such shall be
misconstrued and in violation of Federal Statutes and subject to the
penalties äs stated under the provisions of the Treasury Department.
RESTORATION
When we speak of "cleaning" we refer to that process by which a
stain or foreign material has beert removed by chemical or other
means. Often, cleaning is readily apparent on dose visual
examination, or under the illuminated magnifying glass because
of a slight colour change or disturbance of the ink of the design or
the paper. The cleaned area can readily be detected under the
Ultra Violet Lamp, since those areas cleaned will appear to be
whiter than the surrounding area which was left untouched.
Provided, ofcourse that the entire stamp was not immersed in the
reagent.
CHANGELING when referred to colour, designates a stamp
whose colour has undergone a transformation, usually
permanently, to another colour. This happens because of
prolonged exposure to light or because the stamp has been
placed in a liquid to affect the change. Bleaching is a process by
which a colour is chemically destroyed by oxidation either by over
exposure to light or by continued Immersion in benzene, peroxide
or hydrogen, carbon tetrachloride or trichloroethylene.
Since the entire concept of restoration depends upon so many
factors we must caution the experimenter on a most important
subject, that of fugitive colours. Many inks cannot tolerate any
Immersion whatsoever, not even in water. While the
knowledgeable dealer and collector know of the colour running
problem with carbon tetrachloride, tnchloroethylene and benzene,
he is faced with the problem of which inks are fugitive in these
reagents and which are fugitive in water. Unfortunately, there is
no hard fast rule or list which encompasses those stamps except
to say that no photogravure stamps can stand an Immersion in
these substances at all, nor can coated papers.
Deoxidation is synonymous with Sulphuration (Sulpheretted) and
is offen misinterpreted with oxidation. A sulphuretted stamp is
one in which the lead in one of the ink constituents has combined
chemically with the sulphur in the atmosphere. This causes the
original colour (usually blue, green, read oryel/ow) to
become a brownish black colour. Salt ocean water can offen achieve
sulphuration.
TO WET OR NOT TO WET
While we are trying to acquaint the dealer-collection with the various
techniques for neutralizing stains with various Chemicals, it must be
understood that one must weigh the merits of pursuing the various
procedures. The ultimate answer is to proceed on a damaged
duplicate to ascertain whether the ink and the paper can survive the
chemical treatment. It must be emphasized that no guarantee is either
stated or implied that a particular chemical, treatment or serious of
treatments will work each time, in fact work at all, due to the nature of
the beast. The inks, the papers, the printing processes employed, the
adhesives, the condition of the aged paper and stain, the actual fragility
of the stamp itself, the degree to which the stain has permeated the
paper and ink; all of these factors coupled with the intensity of the
staining body dictate delicate Implementation ofeven the weakest
chemical. Restoration itself should be implemented only äs a last
resort when the gravity of the Situation is weighed. One must consider
the time and expense involved, and the possibility of ending up with a
perfectly bleached, beautifully cleaned, perforated white square.
However careful the experimenter is, he must closely watch the
progress of the reaction and determine when and if the reaction is
complete enough without rendering the stamp useless. On occasion,
one must repeat certain processes to complete remove the stain, but at
the same time watching that this repetition does not completely
weaken the ink and paper. When the cleaning process is äs complete
äs possible, each stamp must be thoroughly washed to remove all
traces of the catalytic chemical. Before the person has decided to
attempt any procedure with a mint stamp, he must, in his own
judgement, decide whether the stains stays, or the gum does. It must
be remembered that in some cases a few moments of careful
examination could allay any chemical treatment at all. If there are light
pencil marks on the face of the stamp, it would be wiser to use a
delicate soft gum eraser or the dough from a frozen roll mix than
chemical washing. Generally speaking, if the chemical employed
can remove the stain, it may also be able to remove the ink and
destroy the stamp. The mildest treatment possible should be
employed betöre attempting stain removal with the more
sophisticated chemical reagents. Even then, solution of the
chemicals ought to be considered even if they must be repeated
several times, for we cannot undo in minutes what nature has
spent years achieving.
Whenever water is to be used, always use distilled water or, if
available, sterile Water for Irrigation which is available in 1500 ml
Containers. It is quite inexpensive and is chlorine and chemical
free. Certainly, if water can do the Job alone, it should be
considered even if it prolongs the final results being achieved. In
some instances combination procedures can be alternated to
achieve final results. Perhaps water, then a solvent, than a mild
bleach, then water again.
TESTING THESTAMPS WATER SOLUBLEFACTOR AND
EMPLOYING VARIOUS TECHNIQUES
Using a piece of acid free filier paper, one can usually determine
the solubility of a stamp's ink. By moistening the filter paper
slightly and then proceeding to place it against the stamp's face
for a moment, one can usually spot a slight semblance of colour
transferred to the filter paper if the ink is fugitive. If, at this point,
the restoration must be continued, the chemical or water can be
applied minutely from the back of the stamp, possibly with a glass
square being placed atop the face of the tamp, or by placing filter
paper (ACID FREE) either above or below the stamp depending
on whetheryou are working on the face or attempting removal
from beneath. An alternative method would be to place the tamp
and chemical within the various stamp sweat boxes available,
being careful; not to use any chemical which might be corrosive to
the plastic of the box itself. A fine spray atomizer can be
purchased quite inexpensively and would offer a finer, more
controlled method of applying the solution. If the decision is made
to attack the stain face forward because of the thickness of it, you
should have several degrees of fine artists natural säble brushes,
the best you can find. Be particularly careful not
to let the solvents attack the plast/c or paint portions of the brush or
you may end up having removed one stain only to find another more
difficult one.
It is suggested that howeveryou störe your assortment of chemicals,
the Container be amber coloured to prevent breaking down of the
chemical itself. Many chemicals will lose their potency when exposed
to even slight amounts of normal light. They must be tightly stopper,
kept away from heat or cold, and usedpreferably In well ventilated
areas. Because you may be interchanging many chemicals and
procedures, keep all chemicals away from open flames and sparks.
Never use the same device to apply different chemicals since this may
neutralize one of the chemicals over a period of time by contamination.
We suggest storage within amber, light proof 15 or 30 m glass
applicator bottles.
APPLIED DETECTION
As we mentioned earlier, it is offen possible to detect chemical
cleaning on a stamp with the use of Ultraviolet rays. We feel it
important to make the dealer-collector aware that no restoration goes
entirely undetected and for that reason include a brief dissertation on
the applied use of Ultraviolet äs related to restorative detection. In
order that this be accomplished we must ask the more knowledgeable
Philatelist to retrace whatever Information is provided within this text,
that others might learn.
Since its discovery, Ultraviolet has intensified the dealers' and
collectors' search for distinguishing characteristics in the form of faults,
forgeries, erasures, bleaching, dyeing and more recently tagged and
untagged errors on the postage stamps of the world. This has enabled
him to determine the true market value of an otherwise seemingly
unsuspected stamp. Whether the stamp has been tampered with or
not is more visible under these rays when the trained eye can realize
what is confronting it. The purpose of this guide is to brief the collector
on what to expect with Ultraviolet; his patience and experimentation will
eventually make him expertise in his judgement. It is to this end that
we point out what has
already been learned with Ultraviolet in the realm of philately. It is
important at this point to note that the unit should be handled with
extreme caution so äs not to expose the eyes to short wave
ultraviolet, äs it can severely sunburn the corneas. Although it is
well known that eye glasses will stop short wave ultraviolet it is
possible for the rays to enter the unprotected areas around the
glasses and thus injure the eyes. Never stare directly into the
lamp nor point it towards another person or a reflective surface.
PHILA TELIC APPLICA TIONS
Ultraviolet lamps are extremely useful in the detection of normal
departures from the ordinary on the paper or ink of stamps, such
äs repairs and forgeries, because the fluorescence which
eminates from a portion of the stamp which has been altered will
show a marked difference from that of the original paper.
Examples of this would be mends, erasures alterations, spot
bleaching, cancellation removal, colour removal, cleaning,
restorations, forgeries, dyeing, comparative fluorescence, aura
diffusion, eradications, gum changes, tagged and untagged
errors, coding, American and National bank note paper
differentiation, margin addition, thinning replacement and shading.
As we have seen, the main purpose of ultravidet is to provide
Information on a stamp which may not be obtained by other
methods. Obviously, if differentiation is usually is accomplished
by reflected radiation and depends upon the premise that two or
more portions of a stamp will reflect orabsorb ultraviolet to
different degrees. Some inks will absorb ultraviolet while others
will reflect these radiations. Some have partial absorbtion and
partial reflection. These effects can be recorded photographically
by using ultraviolet radiation.
ULTRA VIOLET RADIATION
A complete ränge of electromagnetic radiation extends from the
extremely short wave lengths ofgamma and x-rays to the
extremely long wave lengths which comprise the radio bands.
The visible
spectrum is included in this ränge and contains a narrow bank of
radiation from about 400 nanometers to 700 nanometers in wave
length. Another narrow band of radiation is also included in the
complete spectrum and is comprised of shorter wave lengths than the
visible. This is the band of ultraviolet radiation, extending from about
10 nanometers in wave length to 440 nanometers, the Iower limit of the
visible spectrum. Ultraviolet can not be seen by the normal human eye
and is often termed "invisible" äs are all other electromagnetic
radiations except those in the short visible ränge. By using a filter that
absorbs all visible light but passes ultraviolet, it is possible to make a
photographic exposure with just ultraviolet. This technique is called
ultraviolet photography.
TYPES OF ULTRAVIOLET
For practical purposes the ultraviolet spectrum is divided into three
very narrow bands: long wave ultraviolet, middle ultraviolet, short wage
ultraviolet. Another band, called vacuum ultraviolet, also exists but is
of no concern for our particular purpose.
SPECIFIC APPLICATIONS
Although the practical applications of ultraviolet for our purposes
appear to be few, the mastering of this technique can be defined äs
advantageous and profitable. Suspected alterations or additions might
be made visible only by the use of ultraviolet. Also, faded stamps can
often be made more legible through ultraviolet since the faded ink may
be brought out in contrast to the paper. This is particular true with
erasures.
LUMINESCENCE
When certain materials are subjected to short wage electromagnetic
radiation, they will emit another radiation of longer wave length and,
very often, in the visible spectrum. This phenomenon of induced light
emission is called luminescence. There are two distinct types:
fluorescence and phosphorescence.
8
FLUORESCENCE
If the luminescence ceases within a very short time after the
existing radiation is removed, the phenomenon is dissipated. This
phenomenon is called fluorescence. Although fluorescence is
commonly produced by excitation with ultraviolet energy, it is also
possible to stimulate with some visible wave lengths.
PHOSPHORESCENCE
Although fluorescence ceases almost immediately after the
exciting radiation is removed, there are some substances which
continue to emit luminescence for some time. This phenomenon
is called phosphorescence and is produced in dyes called
phosphors. Since there are many dyes which exhibit
fluorescence when excited, this is the basis of applications in
philately necessary to supply Information that cannot be obtained
by other means. Just the fact that a substance does not fluoresce
is enough to differentiate it from which one does not. When two
substances both fluoresce they may differ in colour.
Fluorescence can occur, however, in long wave ultraviolet with
short wave ultraviolet excitation. It can also occur in the long
wave visible region with blue light excitation. Many inks show a
difference in visible fluorescence. The effects of bleaching or
erasures can be detected by this means. Some papers on which
cancellations are made contain cellulose fibers. These divers
offen fluoresce brightly when the paper is illuminated by ultraviolet
in a darkened room. After this exposure, erasures will fluoresce.
If inks have been bleached - äs with an eradicator - the bleached
material still in the paper may show a typical fluorescent colour. It
should be noted that another form of luminescence does exist
which may be of some importance to philately. This is the realm
of infra-red luminescence. Although must luminescence appears
in the visible spectrum and is excited by either ultraviolet or visible
short wave lengths of blue, it is also possible to excite
luminescence in the infra-red by Irradiation of certain stamps with
blue green light. The phenomenon referred to is luminescence
instead of fluorescence or phosphorescence because it is not
known if the effect ceases immediately after
The exciting Stimulus is removed. When two portions do fluoresce,
they may differ in colour. Most fluorescence occurs in the visible
spectrum with longwave ultraviolet excitation. Fluorescence can also
occur in long wave ultraviolet excitation. 11 can also occur in the long
wave visible region with blue light excitation. Different inks may show
different luminescence when irradiated with invisible blue green light.
This may prove invaluable when detecting alterations. Since the
fluorescence given off by any part of a stamp which has been
tampered with will differ from that of the original portion, we can see
why erased cancellations including pen marks show up clearly äs do
added margins, fil/ed in thinnings and painted-in designs. Ultraviolet is
also useful in shade recognition. Example: the rate Great Briton 6d.,
bright magenta of Edward VII, or the 1/2 d Cyprus green of George V
can be recognized immediately by their golden glow, which is
completely absent from other less valuable stamps. Whatever is
observed under the rays are not answers themselves since these
answers must give in to individual Interpretation.
ULTRAVIOLET FILTER
All lamps which emit ultraviolet light also emit visible light which tends
to make any fluorescence that is occurring. Therefore, it is necessary
to place in front of the bulb a dark purple glass filter which will block äs
much of the visible light äs possible but will, at the same time, transmit
the ultraviolet. Several types of dark blue or purple glass can be used
äs a filter on a long wave lamp. Sometimes the long wave bulb itself
will be made from a dark blue glass that acts äs a filter. However, a
filter for a short wave lamp must be made from a very special kind of
glass, since äs we have already seen, the short wave radiations will
not pass through ordinary glass.
FLUORESCENT POSTAL STAMPS
While the tagged stamps are all fluorescent under shortwave
ultraviolet, we speak here of the fluorescent stamps which have been
printed with fluorescent inks. While there is a new interest in
fluorescent stamps, they are not new, having been issued
10
through the years by many countries. They date back to the
1800s and perhaps earlier. The characteristic of these stamps is
that they glow in bright colours under an ultravio/et source. They
will usually react under either longwave ultraviolet or shortwave
ultraviolet, whereas the tagged stamps react to shortwave
ultraviolet only.
An example of a spectacular, brilliantly fluorescent stamp is the
German Dove of Peace 1 mark stamp. This stamp is a drab olive
green in ordinary light, but under longwave ultraviolet it glows a
brilliant green showing the Dove of Peace in attractive non
fluorescent contrast.
An interesting point offen observed when examining stamps
under ultraviolet is the variations in fluorescence of the paper on
which the stamps are printed. Very old papers show for the most
part little of any fluorescence, while modern papers vary from
non-fluorescence to brilliant btue-white fluorescence which is best
observed in longwave ultraviolet. It is common for the same issue
of stamps to appear printed both on fluorescent and non
fluorescent paper. As pointed out previous, the US 4 cent Lincoln
stamp not only appears äs a tagged stamp but also in untagged
varieties both on fluorescent and non fluorescent papers.
The variations in fluorescence commonly found in appears can be
vividly illustrated by shining a longwave ultraviolet source on a
random group of envelopes. Some will appear a dull purple, while
others will fluoresce in various degrees ranging to a brilliant bluewhite.
The reason so many modern papers are fluorescent is that during
their manufacture they are brightened by the addition of what is k
known äs an "Optical bleach", These so called bleaches do not
actually bleach the paper but cause a blue fluorescence which is
activated by the ultraviolet present in sunlight and in most artificial
light sources. Fluorescent optical bleaches are almost universally
found in household detergents used for the washing of clothes.
11
POSTAL STAMP FORGERIES AND ALTERATIONS
Since ultra violet will reveal many differences in materials not seen in
visible light, it can frequently be used to detect repairs, alternations and
forgeries. Radly and Grant* report a number of interesting examples of
such detection, One case mentioned is that of a very valuable Ceylon
stamp on which the users frequently clipped the corners in an effort to
make the stamp more attractive. Repairs have at times been made to
restore these stamps. However in ultraviolet the replaced corners are
readily detected by their difference in fluorescence from the original
center. Other imitations recorded include a forgery of a 1/4" such.
Holstein stamp of 1864 in which the ink fluoresced clue, while the
original did not react at all to the ultraviolet. An Imitation of a Baden
number 1 issue obtained by dyeing a number 5 issue was readily
detected under ultraviolet, since it appeared much lighter in colour than
the genuine stamp.
A more recent counterfeit, readily detected under ultraviolet, is the
Ryukyu Islands overprint Scotts #16. Under ultraviolet the genuine
overprints show the ink äs brown-black in appearance with a slight
aura caused by diffusion in to the paper of the oil from the printing ink.
The counterfeit overprints have a blue-black appearance and do not
show the aura.
Eradications, erasures and gum changes are all liable to leave
fluorescent evidence which may be completely undiscernable in visible
light. The possibilities are limited only by the ingenuity and curiosity of
the investigator.
DETERMIN A TION OF FA UL TS
Since we have already learned that the ultraviolet rays will cause a
differentiation because of allen paper, orfaults such äs tears, one has
but to scan a particular stamp for any white dots or spots which are
indicative of foreign paper being added to fill in a hole or tear. Since
any disarrangement of the fiber of the paper will appear under the
"lamp" äs fluorescing differently than its surrounding media, we can
make observations about the quality of the stamp we are buying
12
THE NATIONAL AND AMERICAN BANK NOTE PAPERS
Most collectors are aware of the hard papers of the National and
Continental Companies and the soft papers of the American Bank
Note Company. In most instances these papers can be
recognised by their physical characteristics äs described in
various philatelic references. The stamps can be illuminated on
the printed side of the back side and one can use the long or the
short wave, or both, to show the differences. linder the ultraviolet
light the hard papers appear rather white in colour and the soft
papers appear tan in colour, and duller in appearance and the
collector has no problem in separating the two types of paper. It
is true that hinge remnants and paper defects can interfere with
this differentiation when one illuminates the back side of the
stamp, but one should be able to identify the type on one side or
the other. The best procedure would be to identify the type on
one side or the other. The best procedure would be to identify the
stamps on the basis of their physical characteristics and then
verify your findings with the ultraviolet light. With both wave
lengths turned on the National (hardpaper) will appear lighter and
brighter and whiter than the American Bank Notes (soft paper).
The soft paper stamps are duller; they reflect the light flatly and
appear tan in colour.
SAFETYPAPER
This is a comprehensive term used to designate any special
paper of which the object was to precent cleaning and reuse of
used stamps. There are many different varieties of safety papers,
such äs "chalk surfaced", "Duples", "Enamelled" and "Silk
Thread". They include for example: Austria 1901-02 - paper
printed with diagonal bars of shiny varnish.
Benzine or petroleum will sometimes affect some inks by
dissolving part of one or more of the constituents. Offen such
treatment will visibly affect the stamp to a large extent by
suffusing the paper with colour that has run; but sometimes the
visual change is slight, and it is only when the tamp is examined
by ultra violet rays that a dramatic effect is observed: the stamp
that has been immersed in benzene or petroleum fluoresces
brightly, while an untreated example of the same stamp does not
f/uoresce to anything like the same extent. It is important to
13
bear this fact in mind, because some philatelists have wrongly
accepted äs axiomatic, that marked difference in fluorescence
inevitably points to the use of inks of different compositions, and,
therefore, to be incontrovertible evidence of a new or different printing.
PROGNOSIS
The tools of technical philately, having been made available, can be
used over and over again on äs many copies of the same stamp äs
can be obtained by one collector. It does not necessarily follow that to
have examined one stamp once, no further discoveries can be made.
For äs the collector becomes his own expert in judging what he sees,
he must not convince himself that no further discovery can be made.
There are of course, additional, highly sophisticated methods of
detecting stain removal and we shall note them only briefly. With the
use of Isotope Bambardment and the subsequent spectrographic
analysis, it is possible to detect the removal of a complete colour from
a stamp. Another method of detection is to use the high magnification
dry watermark comparator on the market which utilizes Intensifiers.
When the suspect stamp is placed within the intensifiers, along with a
reputable one, the very body of the stamp is laid open so that every
fiber of the paper in fact the entire inferior of the stamp appears äs if
illuminated from within. By careful examination of the printed portion of
the stamp, one may be able to detect those random areas which have
been cleaned. The paper appears to have unnatural white areas in
contrast to the natural thins which appear quite noticeable in deference
to any watermark which may or may not be prevalent. With the advent
ofcoloured filters, these areas become even more pronounced. This
method is quite necessary for those stamps in which immersion is
prohibited, or where magnification is more important than Ultraviolet.
As for chlorine detection, quite simply, a keen sense of smell can
detect those stamps which have undergone this treatment.
14
ASEPTIC TECHNIQUE
In each phase of the restoration, it must be kept in mind that we
are dealing with a fragile piece of paper, which comes even
more fragile when wetted. Any device at all which can support
the stamp within a tray is better than handling with either stamp
tongs or fingers. Chemically pure reagents are absolutely
necessary, since most over the counter prepared chemicals
contain impurities which can interfere with the reactions.
DIRT AND DIFIT RELATED STAINS
Perhaps the easiest to remove, dirt requires no specialized
solvents to effect its' removal. Quite offen dirt can be removed
by merely ringing the stamp in cold water. It may be necessary
to place several drops of ammonia in the water. If water or a
soff gm eraser does not work, add a small amount ofcastile
shampoo and work up a lather. If the dirt is very firm add some
Flo to the water before adding the soap. Flo will Iower the
surface tension of the dirt and make it more responsive to the
soap. The stamp should be thoroughly rinsed after treatment.
The brush tip should be swept across the stamp in broad even
strokes.
BLOOD STAINS
Wet the stamp thoroughly. Prepare a warm solution of Degest
(proteolytic enzyme) and soak the stamp in it for about 30
minutes. Using a mild castile wash, gently stroke the area with
the säble brush until the area is clean. Rinse the area
thoroughly until all matter has dissipated. Be sure to stabilize
the stamp within the tray so that the brush strokes can be made
evenly and smoothly.
EGG STAINS
Prepare the stamp by thoroughly wetting with a solution of mild
castile and Flow. Add a small amount of warm Degest solution
and work up a later. Lei the stamp soak and repeat the process
several times. When the Degest has done its' work, rinse the
stamp with more Flo and water quite well. Rinse completely for
several minutes.
15
STAMP ADHESIVES
Prepare a solution of .1% sodium Chloride and 10% acetic acid.
Remove äs much of the paper äs possible and lay the stamp upon the
acetic acid solution being careful to keep the top of the tamp above
the surface of the liquid. With a sharp pointed blade (hobby type)
remove any paper or hinge material layer by layer, from the back of
the stamp. Now repeat the soaking process, stamp face up until the
adhesive is sufficiently softened. Gently brush away the adhesive and
rinse well. If another application is required, add a small amount of
Flo to the final rinse. Brush evenly and rinse well. If the stamp colour
is known to be fugitive, use the solution in a fine atomizer and spray
only on the back of the stamp. Continued spraying and alternative
peeling with this method will be longer, but the results will be more
satisfactory. A well lighted magnifier will be quite helpful in preventing
the knife blade from cutting too deeply into the paper of the stamp.
STAMPS AND SELF-STICKING ADHESIVES
For the past third of a Century various seif sticking material have
appealed to stamp and other collectors by their readiness and ease of
use.
However, time has almost always brought stains to, and/or welding
together or the materials involved, with accompanying trouble and
loss for the owner thereof.
Complaints have come from collectors for manyyears bewailing the
damage caused to stamps resulting from the use of self-sticking tape.
The older the original application of the tape to the stamp, the more
severe has been the damage to it.
This investigation was undertaken to determine, if possible, the cause
for the damage incurred and what could be done to salvage the
injured items.
16
The adhesives on self-sticking tapes belong to that class of
compounds known äs polymers. These polymers are found in
the adhesives on masking tape, transparent tape, some
mending tapes, and on self-sticking labels.
The question is then asked: "What are polymers?" The word is
derived from the Green. "Poly" means many, "mer" means
parts. Hence a polymer is a chemical compound having many
parts.
In ehernistry we have many compounds which are capable of
reacting with themselves repeatedly to form /arge entities
(molecules) in the following manner:
10 equals A-A-A-A-A-A-A-A-A-A
The starting compound "A" is a monomer (one part) and the
product formed is a polymer.
Many kinds of polymers exist. We encounter them offen in
every day life. Some common examples are wood (cellulose),
and of course, plastics.
The organic chemist has learned to make many polymers for
our daily use. Well known examples are nylon, polystyrene,
dacron, lucite, bakelite etc.
A special class of polymers has the unusual property of being
sticky and elastic. This class is called "elastomers".
They are the main component of the adhesive on self-stick tape,
hinges and labels. Many elastomers are known and used in the
rubber industry.
>
Common examples are neoprene, natural rubber, Natsyn, BunaS, Hycar, Viton etc.
Examination of a first day cover dated August, 30 1934 (37 Vz
years old!) which had been mounted in an album with seif
sticking tape revealed that the adhesive had darkened to a deep
brown colour and had so dried along the edges so äs to Start to
peel away
17.
The discolouration had penetrated the envelope until the colour was
visible on the inside surface. This is an extreme example of what can
happen when this tape is used.
Another group of stamps examined which had also been mounted
with self-stick tape (brand and date unknown) appeared much like the
above samples with the exception that the adhesive was much
hardened and more brittle.
While this difference could be due to a difference in paper, a different
adhesive is more likely. In both of the above examples the backing
tape was transparent.
Apparently with time three distinctly different changes slowly take
place on the stamp mounted with such adhesive
1. A darkening, probably due to oxidation of the adhesive by the
oxygen of the a/r.
2. A continuation of the polymerization process leading to a stronger
bond between the stamp and the hinge, and between the hinge
and the album paper.
3. A loss of plasticizer. Plasticizers are liquids of Iow volatility which
are offen added to polymers and which aid in keeping the polymer
soff and pliable.
A common example of a plasticizer is the use of neatsfoot oil on
leather. The oil keeps the leather soff and pliable.
The loss of plasticizer could be the result ofslow evaporation, or might
be due to stow absorption by the paper, or both.
As this point a number of factors are apparent:
A) It is usually impossible chemically to reverse in a short time a
change that has required 10-20 years to bring about.
B) Any method adopted for the removal of the adhesive must not
allow the discolouration to spread throughout the stamp.
18
C) the process to be used should be capable of penetrating
both stamps and album pages and remove the
discolouration which ahs penetrated the paper,
A method that satisfies the requirements is often used by the
organic chemist and is called "continuous extraction".
The procedure has the advantage that solvents can be changed
readily during a study of the solubilizing power of various
solvents. It can be operated continuously for days if necessary.
The process can be described briefly äs one of a continuous
and repeated soaking of the material in hot solvent followed by
complete removal of the solvent. When the cycle is repeated
the apparatus automatically uses fresh solvent.
1.
The discolouration and the hinger can be completely
removed from both stamp and album sheet (or mount) when
Scotch tape has been used. This is type A.
2.
Type B solvents will completely remove discolouration and
adhesive from hinged and used stamps, but not from the
gum on some mint stamps.
Forsome obscure reason the discolouration clings very
tenaciously to the gum. Both the latter and the
discolouration are completely removed when the stamp is
soaked in water.
This tape has all of the outward appearance of the usual
tape of this class.
3.
The seif stick tapes belonging to this third type must be a
recent development, and insufficient time has elapsed to
reveal its true characteristics.
No discolouration was detectable on either the stamp or
album page on the samples submitted.
19
The hinge is impossible to remove without either tearing or peeling the
stamp or atbum page. The adhesive will require different solvents
from those used on types A and B.
During the treatment the adhesive swells but does not dissolve easily.
The stamp should be removed at this stage and the hinge carefully
peeled off the stamp.
The softened and swollen adhesive is then carefully rubbed off with a
wad of cotton and the stamp returned to the extractor for an additional
six to 10 hours of extraction with solvents, to effect the complete
removal of the adhesive from the stamp.
The backing on this group, Type C, has a translucent rather than
transparent appearance.
While l was aware of the dangers encountered with some stamps
when watermark testing with organic solvents, l was truly
dumbfounded to discover what does happen to a limited number of
stamps (thank heavens) when subjected to exhaustive extraction with
organic solvents.
Some stamps will lose all colour to form albinos, while others will lose
only a pigment component to give new and unusual, and even
startling, colour changes!
Regretfully such stamps will be lost for good.
The removal of seif sticking hinges and tapes, and ofthe resulting
stains will require prolonged treatment with solvents. Let us repeat
again, one cannot undo in a short time what has taken years to bring
about.
The solvent treatment must not spread the stain throughout the paper.
We accordingly are forced to use a process of continuous extraction
whereby the used solvent is replaced b y fresh clean solvent.
An apparatus which does this efficiently is a Soxhlet extractor
illustrated in Figure 1.
20
The vapours of boiled solvent in flask "A" rise through side tube
"B" to the condenser "C". This condenser cools the vapours and
the liquid drops into the reservoir "D". This reservoir will contain
the stamps to be cleaned.
The reservoir fills with the Condensed liquid to the level of the
siphon "E" whereupon all liquid overflows back into flask "A".
Upon continued heating the process is repeated. The
Condensed liquid again fills the reservoir and is again siphoned
back into flask "A".
All soluble material (adhesive) on the stamp is thus slowly
dissolved off.
Obviously the process is automatic and may be continued äs
long äs it may be necessary.
Now forsome precautions, and observations:
All self-stick hinges and tapes can be removed, completely.
Stains on used stamps and on paper can be also completely
removed. Stains on gum sometimes cannot be removed but
disappear with water upon soaking.
The time required for the removal of the stain will depend upon
the porosity of the stained paper. The denser the paper the
longer will be the time required.
The duration of the treatment will average about 32 hours, but
refractory cases will require up to 60 hours of continuous
treatment.
The backing of the hinge or tape will act äs a barrier to the
solvent which slows down the removal ofthe adhesive.
Removal of the stamp after about 8 hours of treatment and
peeling off of the hinge, then continuing the treatment will
materially shorten the time necessary for the removal of the
stamp.
21
The dissolved pari of the adhesive is very soluble in the solvent. The
first few cycles of the extraction process will be highly coloured.
Solents to use: When the tape or backing is transparent benzEne is
the solvent of choice although toluene will also be effective, to a
somewhat lesser degree.
NOTE that this is benzENE and not benzlNE. BenzlNE will not be
effective.
Technical grades of benzene and toluene are sold äs Benzol and
Toluol. These have not been refined and may contain constituents
which may härm some stamps. Use chemically pure or reagent
grades of solvent.
When the backing of the tape or hinge is translucent but not
transparent, and the adhesive is not discoloured, the solvent to use is
methyl-ethyl-ketone, although acetone will work, but more slowly.
(Again the flammability and toxicity warning!)
11 is imperative that the hinge be peeled off after it has been softened
(5-10 hours) and the adhesive be wiped off with a wad of cotton
betöre continuing the treatment for completing the removal of
adhesive from the paper.
Now for the precautions:
The vapours of organic solvents are flammable and toxic! The
vapours of benzene are especially so. Accordingly, the extraction
should be done in a fire proof room.
All handling of the solvent-soaked stamps should be done in a fume
chamber or hood where the fumes are removed by an a/r draft.
This is not an Operation to be carried out by the amateur; have a
chemist do this for you.
22
Those stamps which contain dyes and pigments soluble in
organic solents will have these colours removed by this
procedure. We will then have the Situation where "the Operation
was a success, but the patient died!"
In those instances where documents and album sheets must be
treated äs above, a modified Soxhlet must be used.
Diagram of the Soxhlet extractor.
Note that there is no entrance only an exit -in the bottom of the
reservoir in which stamps are
treated
-H
23
F'ATAND RELATED GFIEASE STAINS
Prepare the stamp within the tray by applying a light coating of
morpholene. Work well in to the stamp until the entire area is
covered. With a second brush, apply thin even strokes ofpyridine,
repeating the process several times. Rinse the stamp well with soap
wash (castile and water). Rinse again with cold water. If it is
necessary to repeat the process Start with warm glycerin, applying
even strokes. Follow this with benzene. Wait several seconds and
repeat the application of the glycerin. Now apply broad stokes of
benzine (not benzene) fairly rapidly. Remove all solvente with the
soap wash and rinse well with cold water.
NON GREASY STAINS
Place the stamp in the tray and apply a small layer of mineral oil to the
stained area. Wait several seconds and apply a thin layer of amyl
acetate using fast brisk brush movements. Wait several moments and
wash with castile and then cold water. Repeat the process, washing
thoroughly. If this falls use pine oil first, saturating the stamp well.
Then apply acetone since it can solubilize mosi inks. Rinse well with
castile wash and plenty of cold water. Flo should be used in all rinses
containing stains that are difficult to remove.
SCOTCH TAPEADHESIVE
Thoroughly saturate the stamp with carbon tetrachloride and work the
tip of the brush back and fort/? at first, then in a circular motion.
Remove the stamp and while it is trying, sweep a dry brush across the
area until the "Juice" dissipates. Repeat the process several times,
keeping the stamp in the liquid at a minimum. A castile wash with
Tween 20, followed by a clean rinse is advised
24.
AIRPLANE GLUE
Soak the stamp first in pyridine then in amyl acetate. Dry stamp
completely. Apply a thin layer of mineral oil and repeat the
process, brisk/y brushing the area. Rinse well with Flo and
water until all extraneous material is removed.
SEALING WAX ADHESIVE
Apply a moderate amount of morpholene and thoroughly
moisten the area with 91% isopropyl or ethyl alcohol. Wait
several minutes before using the alcohol. Wash with more
alcohol and follow with a castile wash. Use rapid strokes with
the brush. Follow with a bath of Flo and rinse thoroughly.
OIL PAINT SPOTS
Soffen the stain with pine oil and wait several minutes. Apply
tetraethylene for about 30 seconds and repeat the process.
Wash with castile and remove all traces with Flo and cold water
rinse. Repeat the process substituting heptaner or hexane for
the tetraethylene.
TAR
Prepare the stain with ineral oil and allow to stand for 1 minute.
Gently brush naphta until all tar is removed. Use a castile rinse
which incorporates afew drops of Tween 20. Rinse with cold
water and Flo. Rinse again with water.
TOBACCO STAINS
Apply warm glycerin to the area to be treated. Brush 91%
isopropyl or ethyl alcohol on freely for several seconds. If this
falls, dip the stamp in 10% citric acid for 1 minute and then
follow the same procedure. Thoroughly wash and rinse the
stamp with cold water. Use a Flo rinse. Wash all traces of
sediment away with tepid water.
25
CANDLE WAX STAINS
Immerse the stamp in carbon tetrachloride and brush freely for several
seconds. Allow the stamp to a/r dry. Repeat the procedure until all of
the wax is reduced. Repeat and brush smoothly while still immersed.
Allow to a/r dry and wash (if colour is fast) with a Tween 80 rinse and
castile bath. Rinse completely with cold water.
ADHESIVE TAPEADHESIVE
While stamp is in ray, brush swiftyl with naphtha and follow with
castile and Tween 20 wash. Repeat process and rinse well with cold
water brushing with a clean brush You may use a Flo in the next to
final rinse.
CRAYON STAINS
Soffen the crayon with pine o/V for several minutes and apply smooth
strokes of naphta. Clean all residue with castile and Tween 20 wash.
Rinse thoroughly with Flo and cold water and rinse again with just cold
water.
DISCOLOURED ORGANIC STAINS
Treat the area with morpholoene for several minutes and bathe with
pyridine. Repeat the process and wash with Flo rinse and castile
wash. Clean with cold water rinse.
LUBRICANT STAINS
Ifstains remain affer using mineral o/V, pine oil, glycerin or
morpholene, bathe the stamp in fresh pyridine several times until all
traces of stain are dissipated. Stamps should be dried between
several layers of acid free filter paper.
26
INDIA INK
Prepare the softening or lubricating of the stain by treating with
pine oil. Lei the oil permeate for several minutes; brush the
loosened material way. Immerse in alcohol (91% has less water)
and brush freely until stain id dissipated. Wash with castile and
then plain cold water. If this procedure falls, soak stamp for 30
minutes in Degest. Then repeat the procedure.
PRINTERS INK AND MARKING INK
This is the most difficult ink stain to remove. Soffen the stain with
pine oil several times. Brush away stain particles and wash
repeatedly with soap wash.
TYPEWRITER INK AND STAMP PAD INK
To the try of castile wash, add several drops of Tween 20 and a
small amount of ammonia water. Brush smoothly and thoroughly.
Wash well with Flo rinse and repeat the process. Rinse finally in
cold water.
CARBON PAPER STAINS
Swish stamp continuously in amyl acetate for several seconds, a/r
dry and repeat process. Wash in castile and Tween 80 bath.
Rinse well in cold water.
BALL POINT PEN INK STAINS
D/p stamp into toluene and them amyl acetate. Wash in Tween
20 and castile bath. Repeat process, brushing gently. Rinse in
cold water.
27
INDELIBLE PENCIL STAINS
Brush generous amount of warm glycerine on area. Lei glycerine stay
for about 2 minutes. Wash completely with castile and Tween 20.
Rinse in Flo and then in cold water
BLUE BLACK WRITING INK
Soften the ink with warm glycerine for several minutes. P/ace the
stamp in half strength Dilute Hydrochloric Acid for only several
seconds. Rinse repeatedly and wash with Castile soap bath.
RED AND GREEN INK STAINS
Lubricate and sotten the ink stain with warm glycerine for several
minutes. Wash rapidly with castile bath followed by Tween 20 rinse
with castile. Rinse with cold water.
LACQUER STAINS
P/ace the tamp in tray and carefully lest the ink for resistancy to
acetone. This fest should be done actually, with any chemical. P/ace a
few drops ofthe acetone on the filier paper and touch lightly on the
face of the stamp. If no colour was transferred then the colour will
remain fast. Brush the acetone across the stain carefully for several
seconds. Lei the stamp dry. Repeat the process until the stain is
removed, being careful not to remove colour by mere brushing
pressure. Wash only if the stamp is non fugitive in nature (castile
bath).
PAINT STAINS
Prepare a bath of 50% alcohol (91%) and benzene. P/ace the stamp,
stain side down for 10 seconds. Turn the stamp over and brush lightly
until all traces of the stain have been removed. If necessary, wash in
castile bath. Rinse well.
28
RUBBER CEMENTAND SCOTCH TAPE
Prepare a solution of 50% toluene and 50% benzene. Follow the
procedure äs before, brushing lightly so äs not to disturb and
übers of the stamp.
SHELLAC STAINS
Immerse the stamp in a bath of ethyl alcohol, the higher the
concentration, the better. Follow the brushing, drying procedure,
Use a castile wash and rinse well.
WATER RESISTANT GUMS
Prepare a solution of 5% acetic acid in the tray and place the
stamp face up mithin the solution. Sprinkle Degest liberally and
stir slightly. Reaction time should be less than 40 minutes. Wash
thoroughly with cold water.
THE NEW SELF STICK ADHESIVES
This technique is probably the longest to accomplish and requires
soaking in benzene which has been warned. CAUTION: this is a
flammable liquid and some stamps will lose all their colour. After
the stamp has soaked forseveral hours, completely wash the
stamp in castile bath to which several drops of Flo and Tween 20
have been added. Rinse well in cold water. Older types will
require the use of mythly-ethyl-ketone.
SILVER NITRATE INK STAINS
Paint the area with mild iodine solution: follow this with a 5%
sodium thiosulfate solution. Wash with castile bath and rinse with
cold water for several minutes.
29
IRON STAINS
Immerse the stamp in 10% citric acid solution in the tray. Leave for
approximately 90 seconds and then wash with castile bath. If the stain
is still present, dip the stamp in concentrated sodium Chloride solution
and then immerse in the 10% citric acid, If the stain is still resistant to
this treatment, dip it in a 5% oxalic acid solution and repeat the entire
process being careful to wash thoroughly. Repeated stroking with the
säble brush is necessary. An alternative procedure is to first treat the
stamp with a 0.3% solution ofammonium solfate to be followed bya
wash in a 4% solution of oxalic acid. Wash with castile bath and rinse
thoroughly.
THE BLEACHING OF STAINS
It should be noted that bleaching may not only remove the unwanted
stain, but in many cases it may well remove constituents ofthe in k with
which the tamp was printed. It is the most drastic procedure and
should be used only when all eise falls. There is no way to correct
overbleaching and the timing must be watched carefully, for once the
Vignette has faded, there is no recourse. Many bleaches can leave a
stamp's paper in pieces.
STAMP 0X1DATION
The following does not refer to the "oxidation" usually referred to, which
is sulphidization or sulphurization, äs it is sometimes called. This is
due to the fat that certain metallic pigments which are basically oxides
will absorb sulphur dioxide or hydrogen sulphide, offen present in the
a/r in minute quantities. As nearly all metallic sulphides are black
(there are only three or four exceptions to this rule) this absorption of
sulphur compounds blackens the stamp affected. The sulphur
compound formed may be re-ixidized, äs most collectors know, by
using H202 or peroxide of hydrogen, which gives up its extra atom of
oxygen and displaces the sulphur. The "oxidation" is called
30
"foxing" äs a rule. This foxing is the reddish or brownish spotting
we find in old books, some of which have a very decided odour äs
a result of it. Foxing is caused by plant growths related to
bacteria, fungi and moulds. It attacks stamps in all humid
climates, The worst case we have ever seen was on a set or
/arge bicolor "Omaha" die proofs, which were completed
obliterated by it, both stamps and margins. These were restored
by cautious application of a b/eaching solution Chloramine T.
So-called "rust" in stamps is referred to äs a "brown mould",
"oxidation", "foxing" etc. Actually it is fungoid or bacterial in
nature.
First of all it would be well to deal with the manufacture of paper,
which is the root cause of the infection. Fibres of various kinds,
all of vegetable origin are digested into pulp with the aid ofsodium
oxide, sodium sulphite and sulphurous acid. The resulting mass
in its crude state is called "cellulose". Bleaching is effected by
various mixtures such äs calcium Chloride and calcium
hypochlorite; these produce chlorine which, in turn, releases
oxygen. Acidity is neutralized by adding sulphite or hyposulphite
soda. The cellulose is loaded with china clay, and at this stage
colouring matter is added if desired.
The fluid mass is passed under pressure through a strainer to
remove such solids äs exist, and then on to a mould that allows
the liquid to drain off. After drying, the paper is absorbent, ie
"blotting paper". This is then sized by treating the surface with a
composition of gelatine and/or resin in solution. It is subjected to
further drying and pressure, and is then ready.
The gumming of stamps is done by applying dextrine, ie a dilute
composition of starch and nitric acid, with or without hydrochloric
acid or oxalic acid.
Now these raw materials, vegetable fibres, wood pulp and clay, all
contain abundant bacteria, and the manner in which we keep our
collection is liable to provide suitable conditions for their growth.
31
The most important consideration about papers which are to be kept
for any lengthy period under humid conditions (such äs prevail in South
Africa) is that of the "furnish" or surface sizing. Mechanical wood pulp
by reason of the unsaturated character of the product and high quantity
of lignone, is liable to autoxidation and should be avoided. The most
suitable type of paper is one made from chemical wood pulp alone,
preferably a bleached chemical pulp, the paper finished off very slightly
on the acid side with a/um. All these remarks on paper refer to that
used in the manufacture of stamps, album leaves, hinges and even the
covers ofalbums.
It is this vegetable composition of paper which, in conditions of
moisture and lack of light, permits bacterial growth. The growth is not
at first visible to the naked eye but usua/ly appears äs brown specks on
the teeth of the perforations, gradually spreading until it covers the
whole unprinted portion of the stamp, but very seldom attacking the
printed portion. It has been said that it appears more on the gummed
side of the tamp (in the case of mint stamps) but äs the growth takes
place in the centre of the paper- that is under the surface it is a matter
of visibility. Under a strong microscope the infection loses its colour,
and the paper has a raised appearance.
From observations made, it is possible to lay down some rules for the
safe housing of collections, the first of which should be the careful
selection of albums and album sheets. Owing to the additional
chemical treatment of "black" sheets these being the most resistant are
the most desirable, but care should be taken that they are of good
qua/ity, and of chemical wood pulp äs referred to before.
Then the selection of the Container for the stamps and albums is
important, äs the wood should be of a dry variety, so assisting in
absorbing the moisture. Experiments in this direction have been
carried out, sandalwood and camphorwood chests being used. It all
depends on the amount of moisture which is al/owed to percolate in to
the Container, äs when this is eliminated we remove the most important
factor of bacterial growth. An example of how moisture can be carried
in minute particles of dust can be here given. It was noticed that paper
and paper manufacturers which
32
were kept under cover in a receptacle in a direct line of draught
gradually received a fine coating of dust which, on being
removed, disclosed the "brown mould" under each deposit.
There are numerous methods ofcombating the presence of
moisture in ordinary receptacles, such äs cupboards, wardrobes
etc. The cheapest, ad one which will not to härm by contact, is a
piece of old soap, which has become very hard and shrunken.
This will absorb all moisture present. Contact of the tamps and
leaves with the hands and arms should be avoided at all costs, äs
it is those parts touched which very soon show signs of infection,
especially if the stamps are put away, and not aired from time to
time.
There is a method of protecting paper and stamps against the
"brown mould" infection, for those ready to undertake the task,
and Thymol is the remedy. For the treatment of album leaves,
melt thymol crystals into sheets of clean white blotting paper, by
using a hot iron. This impregnated blotting paper should then be
interleaved between the album leaves and the book kept under a
weight for a few days. This will sterilize the book and there is no
risk of damage to the stamps.
We can now deal with the most effective remedy for removing
"brown mould" from stamps - that is, from stamps, äs the remedy,
when coming into contact with the gum of mint stamps, dissolves
the gum (although taking out the "mould" or discolouration). The
remedy Chloramine T, is very cheap and a mixture of 2 grammes
with 100 cc distilled water is ofample strength to clear the
infection. In the case of a very badly discloured stamps, two or
more applications are necessary. The stamps can either be
immersed in the solution, or a small water colour paint brush may
be used. A warning should be given äs to chalk surfaced stamps,
äs owing to the bleaching qualities of Chloraminen T, the surface
will be adversely affected. As it known, tamps printed on chalky
paper are specially prepared to prevent the eradication of
cancellation marks, and, aside from contact with liquids, the
surface can be removed by friction
33
It has been established that stamps treated with the solution do not
show a recurrence of the infection, and tests made prove its efficiency
over a period of some years, even with stamps kept in dose proximity
with others containing the mould.
There are many grades of quality in papers used for postage stamps,
and among those used for Union of South African stamps the most
receptive to mould are the four Airmail stamps issued during 1925.
These are invariably found damaged among collections in the tropical
areas. The issues from the Georg/ans to the London-printed pictorials
are very prone to infection also, but the later issues seem to be more
resistant. There is no doubt that the paper used for the Victorians was
of far better quality than that used for the post-Victorian issues, and the
modern process of paper-making is no doubt responsible for this.
Unfortunately we cannot treat damaged mint stamps with Chloramine T
solution without damaging them in another direction. Until a suitable
remedy is found the only alternative is to remove the gum and treat the
affected parts with the solution.
SULPHURATION, MILDEW, FOXING, IRON RUST STAINS
Prepare fresh hydrogen peroxide by filtering it through a pledged of
cotton which has been inserted into the neck of a glass funnel. The
resulting filtered liquid is then placed in the tray and a small plastic
screen is laid across the top. Place the tamp face down on the screen,
having cut an area wide enough so that most of the Vignette is exposed
to the vapors. Place a glass slide over the entire tray, thus containing
the vapors within. An alternative device would be to saturate the
cellulose filier within the Stamp lift and place the stamp face down.
Close the lift and rotate the stamp periodically until the original colour
returns. When bleaching, always consider the conditions of the stamp.
Many inks and papers can withstand very little bleaching. Wash the
stamp well after any bleaching process, to avoid any alter bleaching.
This procedure is also effective on stains where all other procedures
have failed, or where the residue from other procedures are left. An
example of this would b eater stains, and after cleaning spots. The
bleaching treatment will tend to eliminate bacterial and fungous stains.
34
When you have mastered the bleaching technique, you may wish
to place the stamp directly into the peroxide. You must watch the
face of the stamp constantly following this procedure;
A mixture ofone desert spoon of peroxide of
hydrogen to half a pint of water (a stronger mixture
will visibly bleach many colours and paper and in
any case one should watch the patient and remove
it immediately before the slightest unnatural
appearance takes place). This process will offen
restore the original colour of stamps printed by
recess method, where the colour has been
climatically affected (the socalled but ill named
"oxidized" discolouration can be removed)
An alternative bleaching method is the use of Chloramine T.
Prepare a fresh solution of 3% Chloramine Tand immerse the
stamp until the desired bleaching has taken place. Whilst this is
äs effective äs peroxide, it is a much s/o wer process but requires
less rinsing.
The fastest bleaching method consists of immersing the tamp in
0.5% potassium permanganate solution for no more than a
minute or two. It must then be quickly removed and dipped into a
2% sodium thiosulfate solution which contains several drops of
dilute hydrochloric acid. One of the problems with bleaching is
the after effect on the paper of the stamp. The paper will become
lifeless and drab. To correct this, one has merely to paint the
stamp with very dilute gelatin solution and retone the face with
coffee or tea.
STERILIZA TION OF BACTERIA
Damaging bacteria can be controlled by vaporizing a thymol
crystal under the heat of a bulb. The resulting aromatic vapor will
sterilize the stamp when held within the path of the heated crystal.
35
HUMIDITY
Damp affects the colour of many stamps and makes many unused
stamps stick to each other or to the album page or to something eise.
Almost equally it affects the used stamp which if on a letter will become
detached, if on an album page cause foxing in a greater or lesser
degree, fostering minute fungoid growths which stain both stamps and
album page with little brown spots. The use of silica gel will eliminate
the humidity thus preventing rust (foxing).
Having taken all reasonable precaution to avoid damp, ifyour
collection is affected by this menace there are several treatments that
can be effective if the moisture has only been present for a short
period.
Basically there are two processes, dry and wet.
A fan driver warm-air heater directed onto the open bound album or
individual pages removed from a loose leaf album will soon make
album pages crisp. If the stamps are stuck to the album page, then
having warmed the back of the page, take the top of the page in the
right hand, hold the bottom of the page in the left hand, and pass the
page over the sharp edge of desk or fable. As the paper passes over
the edge, the right hand should draw the page downwards. If you are
in luck the stamps will spring off the page with no damage or less other
than the album page.
If stamps are stuck down tightly on an album page, do not try and save
the page. The stamps may be removed from the album page by
several methods and one must really know something about the
method ofprinting and the degree of colour fastness of the stamps
before choosing one method in preference to others.
The wet methods are:
1.
2.
3.
steam on the back of the album page till by experimentation
the stamps are loosened, removed and dried
moisture at the back of the page (sometimes in the sweat box)
Benzene on the stamps
36
The wet process can easily affect fugitive colours and ruin gum,
but it is speedily effective and generally satisfactory if one takes
the troub/e to watch the patients all the time.
HEAT
Heat can be even more destructive than humidity. Quite apart
from fire which totally destroys, a hol climate sooner or later will
always affect stamps mounted in a collection unless great
precautions are taken. For this reason, stamps from collections
formed in places like the Islands in the West Indies and Malaysia
are invariably "browned" or "tropicalised" and there is little one
can do other than wash the stamps. Stamps which have been
kept in countries where the climate is hot and dry are less likely to
suffer except that the natural moisture in the paper of the stamps
tends to dry out and the paper become brittle; if the stamp is
unused then the loss of moisture causes the paper shrinkage to
crack the gum and creases appear on the surface of the stamp. If
such stamps are to be preserved from disintegration then there
are only two actions that will halt the process. The stamps must
either have the gum removed, an action which is anathema to the
real Philatelist or they must be placed in the humidor or sweat box
for an hour or more so that the paper may absorb the moisture it
has lot and then slowly expand; meanwhile the gum softens and
when the appearance is normal the stamp should be allowed to
dry and then be placed in a press under medium pressure for an
hour or so. This treatment takes patience, but over a period
varying from an hour to several days, according to the degree of
dehydration of the patient, an enormous improvement will be
noted and, in some cases, complete rehabilitation achieved,
although it may be necessary to repeat the treatment more than
once.
DEACIDIFICATION
Once it has been determined that deterioriation of paper fibers
could be attributed largely to acidity within the fibers or to acidic
atmospheric conditions which produced correlative acidification
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within the fibers, it was then necessary to find those means of arresting
the acidity and, if possible, of reversing the acidification process, ie of
deacidifying the fibers.
Innumerable tests resulted in the use of calcium compounds äs the
deacidification agents.
The reason for selecting these calcium compounds was that previous
tests of old papers, still strong after several centuries of natural aging
and with a pH 7.0- 8.0, indicates that it was calcium carbonate
probably resulting from early bleaching methods or washing the rags in
hard water that gave them their mildly alkaline or near neutral
condition.
These calcium compounds were Solutions of calcium hydroxide and
calcium bicarbonate. The first solution was intended to neutralize the
acidity of the fibers and the second to remove the residual hydroxide of
the first solution.
The answer came with the discovery ofthe use of magnesium
bicarbonate äs a deacidification agent; the answer to the second came
with the discovery that "spraying with the magnesium bicarbonate
solution effectively neutralizes acid paper
increases their flexibility
that papers so deacidified show good stability after heat aging
that the neutralizing effect ofthe spray extends throughout the
thickness of the paper.
The beginning of the deacidifcation process is actually part of the
cleaning routine äs it involved the testing of inks. The testing of inks is
one of the simplest procedures to be encountered in the total
restoration ofthe stamps and, at the same time, one ofthe most vital.
The materials involved are of the greatest simplicity also, they are two:
a small cotton swab and some water. The saturated cotton is briefly
touched to the stamp. See if any of the ink has been absorbed by the
cotton, for should there be colouring on the swab, this fact would
indicate that the ink would fade and must, therefore, not b subjected to
the usual methods of deacidifying.
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Once the ink is determined to be safe or stable the stamp is
immersed in a solution of magnesium bicarbonate for a period of
some twenty minutes. Dry well between blotters.
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