CODEX CODEX - S.Pellegrino
Transcription
CODEX CODEX - S.Pellegrino
Water S.PELLEGRINO & ACQUA PANNA C CO OD D EE X X The art of mineral water and its perfect harmonization with wine Water THE S.PELLEGRINO & ACQUA PANNA C CO OD D EE X X The art of tasting mineral water and its perfect harmonization with wine I N T RO D U C T I O N I should first admit that wine has always been one of my passions, and I have served it widely and spoken about it on countless occasions. Consequently, I’d never have imagined that one day I would be asked to introduce a book on mineral water! Invited to write these few lines, however, to my surprise I soon realised that water has effectively always been a quiet and unassuming presence accompanying my every meal, and because I always took if for granted, I never once gave it a thought. It was therefore a welcome revelation upon reading the fascinating account by the two authors of this book, told for the first time ever, that water too has a distinct personality of its own. It is therefore with the utmost pleasure that I recommend this book to all gastronomers and lovers of fine food, so that, like myself, they might discover the characteristics of water, that infinitely generous and excellent gastronomic companion to every meal. Kostas Touloumtzis Chairman of the Association de la Sommellerie Internationale NOTE FROM THE AUTHORS R ather than dealing with water itself, this book aims to respond to a number of questions: “If water has a flavor, how can we perceive this? Once the organoleptic properties of this precious product have been determined, what do we do with them? Can we use this knowledge to improve the quality and service in our restaurant? What’s more, how can we convey this information to our guests?” Actually, these are the topics explored by this publication, which was completed after numerous meetings and lively discussions among all those who took part in its creation. It is far from an easy topic. The approach used for its organization was complex but perhaps, with a touch of pride, we can say that we’ve succeeded. One of the objectives we set for ourselves in preparing the “Water Codex” was to create a common language for everyone, operators in the sector and non, who wish to explore this topic in order to generate and facilitate a flow of information. The book was structured so that it can be used both by readers who wish to learn only the essentials and those who wish to explore the topic in depth and want to use the information it contains to conduct informative sessions, for example, ones dedicated to water tastings or to matching water with wine. Finally, we have taken the liberty of providing suggestions on how to offer, present and serve water. This is the first beverage to be served and the last one to be removed from the table. All around the world, it is the only one that both “welcomes” dinner guests and says “farewell” at the end of a meal. Arising from the topics covered in the “Water Codex” will come further eno-gastronomical questions, which will be followed up in due time. Meanwhile, we hope that we have succeeded in allowing you to drift along a gentle river of clear, limpid water just waiting to be appreciated, tasted and matched. Claudia Mor iondo Doctorate in food preparation science Giuseppe Vaccar ini Director of the Association de la Sommellerie Internationale INDEX ■ All about mineral water 9 The opinion of eleven experts 53 Markus del Monego 55 Mark Friederich 69 Cleaning the glasses 29 31 Serge Dubs 57 Giuseppe Vaccarini 71 13 Tasting technique 35 Evan Lambert 59 Hector Vergara 73 Acqua Panna Geology and composition Daniela Kramaric 61 Cèzar Canovas 75 17 Use of the water tasting scorecard 39 Kálmán Kozma 63 Conservation of water 21 Tasting S.Pellegrino 41 The sensations of food 77 Water Service 23 Tasting Acqua Panna 43 ■ A geological history of the world A historical overview 9 What exactly is mineral water? 10 S.Pellegrino Geology and composition The water tasting 27 ■ Why conduct a water tasting 27 Tasting tools ■ Harmonizing Water & Wine 45 Harmonizing: rules and exceptions 47 Water & Wine harmonization chart 51 ■ Philippe Faure-Brac 65 Nikos Loukakis 67 A L L A B O U T M I N E R A L WAT E R A geological histor y of the world A historical overview T he term ‘mineral water’ applies to water that originates in certain distinct geological conditions – in many cases these are authentic natural phenomena, such as thermal springs or springwater that has an unusually high level of natural effervescence. Owing to their special properties, even in distant times mineral waters were largely used for bathing and immersion. The ancient Greeks were well aware of the curative properties of mineral water (described by Hippocrates, physician and ‘father of medicine’), and often made use of them in their religious or propitiatory rites. In the times of the Roman Empire, thermal baths were vital social gathering points, where citizens would practise immersions and drink the health-giving waters. As the Empire declined, so did the popularity of thermal spas, but the interest in ‘taking the waters’ for therapeutic purposes survived. The growing interest in the effective curative properties of mineral water prompted the first hydrological studies in the thirteenth century, starting with those made by such scientists and physicians as Pietro d’Albano, Michele Savonarola, Pietro da Eboli, Gentile da Foligno, Pietro da Tossignano, Tura di Castello, Falloppio, Ugolino da Montecatini (the author of the Tractatus de Balneis), Andrea Bacci (the author of another treatise entitled De Thermis). Subsequently, public interest in thermal spas for therapeutic ends enjoyed a steady renascence, and from the mid-1800s through to the next century, certain thermal baths achieved a fame and reputation almost on a par with their ancient Roman counterparts. In this period the therapeutic aspects (albeit reserved for the aristocracy and well-heeled citizens) were increasingly associated with a broader culture of health and physical well-being. In the aftermath of the two world wars, the more renowned and fashionable thermal spas steadily fell into decline, but the mineral waters themselves became a widespread commodity, their curative properties no longer bound to the spas and watering places of yore. Eventually, the rising demand for a broader spectrum of types of mineral water on the part of an increasingly discerning public prompted a veritable boom in the mineral water industry, resulting in an unprecedented range of labels, each one with quite distinct chemical and physical properties. A L L A B O U T M I N E R A L WAT E R Carlo C. Galli Water Resources Manager - Sanpellegrino SpA WC 9 ALL ABOUT M I N E R A L WAT E R A geological histor y of the world WC 10 The term ‘mineral water’ is applied to natural water originating in an underground water table or deposit and emerging from a spring tapped at one or more natural or bore exits that may have qualities favourable to the health. The source of water is closely dependant on the entire watercycle, which may be described as having three basic phases. The first is the infiltration of rainwater through the subsoil (known as ‘recharge’), during which the water from rainfall or melting snow migrates underground through the primary porosity of the deposits (the pores in a granular matrix), faults and fractures in the bedrock. In the second phase the water gravitates down to the ‘reservoir rock’ (the aquifers themselves). Aquifers come in a variety of types, but basically fall into one of two categories: 1) groundwater aquifers in which water flows freely in the saturated subsoil layer; 2) artesian aquifers, by which the water is under pressure due to the specific context where the aquifer is located, sandwiched between two impervious layers; the set-up is analogous to the high-pressure conduit that carries water from a hydroelectric damn to the turbines. While it moves or lies contained in the subsoil, the water’s physical and chemical properties alter, and these changes determine its final composition. First and foremost, it acquires minerals dissolved from the rocks, its temperature changes, and likewise the quantity of dissolved gases. The saline content depends largely on the chemical action of the ‘mother’ rock, a factor governing the eventual properties of all types of mineral water. On the basis of the total dissolved solids (mineral content) the classification of mineral water can be done in three separate categories: ■ ■ ■ minimally mineralised (fixed residue up to 50 mg/l) low-mineral content (fixed residue up to 500 mg/l) mineral-rich (fixed residue over 500 mg/l) Water in the first category is frequently found in mountain locations where the transition through the subsoil is swift (one year or more). A shorter duration spent in the aquifers often connected with the host rock’s low solubility (metamorphic rock and/or plutonic rock types rich in low-soluble minerals, such as quartz), produces a very low mineralisation level in this type of water. At the opposite end of the spectrum we have water that has effected a much deeper circuit, with several decades of permanence in the aquifer, often characterised by surface outlets with unusual temperatures as proof of its circulation in far deeper level underground. This type of water has a notably high saline content, and its genesis is linked to volcanic activity, or to the dissolution of highly soluble rocks, such as evaporitic sediment (chalks, potassic salts, etc.). The methods of extracting mineral water from the ground vary greatly, according to the type of aquifer that requires tapping. Natural springs are harnessed via simple catchment systems. Among the more common catchments are the collection boxes (catch pits), drainage tunnels and trenches and sub-horizontal boreholes drilled near the natural water outlets that increase the flow-rate while also provide greater protection for the water source itself. In many other cases the mineral water lies far deeper underground, and wells are bored to channel it up to the surface. A L L A B O U T M I N E R A L WAT E R A L L A B O U T M I N E R A L WAT E R What exactly is mineral water? WC 11 S .PELLEGRINO GEOLOGY AND COMPOSITION Carlo C. Galli Water Resources Manager - Sanpellegrino SpA Pellegrino’s internationally renowned mineral water issues naturally from an artesian-type source (that is, rising from the aquifer of its own accord) situated on the right bank of the Brembana Valley, in the town of San Pellegrino Terme in the province of Bergamo. The spot was known even in ancient times for its health-giving water, and the S.Pellegrino spring has recently become the object of intensive geological and hydrological studies which included a geophysical investigation into the depths of the subsoil, and a series of detailed isotopic tests to establish the entire course of the water’s long underground transition from the catchment area to the collection point at the fount itself. These extensive geological studies of the subsoil, together with the selected chemical and isotopic analyses of the water, have resulted in a detailed picture of the hydrogeological factors involved in the genesis and path the water takes before it emerges at the spring in San Pellegrino Terme. The catchment area – meaning that area of land that effectively receives the rainfall – lies between 1,200 and 1,300 metres above sea-level (as established through the isotopic analysis of the dissolved oxygen) that corresponds to an extensive uninhabited stretch of the Dolomites (this type of rock belongs to the geological formation of A L L A B O U T M I N E R A L WAT E R S. WC 13 S .PELLEGRINO GEOLOGY AND COMPOSITION San Pellegrino Terme - Casino earth the water comes into contact with evaporitic rocks and encounters a second hurdle in its path, posed by a vertical geological fault where the Dolomia Principale (the aforementioned ‘reservoir rock’, or aquifer) meets with a stratum of impermeable clayey deposits (the so called “Riva di Solto Claystones”). The deep horizontal flow has its own hydraulic gradient (artesian pressure), and is therefore forced upward through this fissure where the two types of rock meet, finding its release in the S.Pellegrino spring itself. Owing to the type of rocks in contact with the aquifer, and to the water’s long presence underground (according to isotopic tests on the tritium content, the water takes an estimated 30 years to transit from the catchment area to the spring), the chemical and physical properties of S.Pellegrino water are characterised by a unique and stable mineralogical formula (from a chemical viewpoint, the water is in the bicarbonate-sulphate-calcic category), given the inertia of the entire hydrogeological system. A L L A B O U T M I N E R A L WAT E R Dolomia Principale, a Triassic stone type very diffuse in the southern Alps). From the catchment area, the water works its way downward through the fissures and gaps in the karstic Dolomitic rock for several hundred metres, until it encounters its first obstacle in the impermeable shelf of chalk deposits. At this point the downward (gravity-based) flow changes to a slower horizontal motion (across an impermeable layer), during which it begins to acquire its organoleptic and physiochemical properties: the dissolving of the evaporitic rock layer largely composed of calcium sulphate imbues the water with strong geochemical qualities, while the greater circulation depth causes a rise in temperature in geothermal gradients. At the last stage, S.Pellegrino water reaches a temperature of 26ºC, whereas the average temperature of groundwater at that level (370 m below sea-level) is between 11 and 12ºC. This difference in temperature (the heat resulting from the geothermal gradient) is around 15ºC; considering an average gradient of 3ºC every 100 metres, this indicates a depth of 500 metres below the level of the spring at the surface. During its long journey inside the WC 15 A C Q U A PA N N A GEOLOGY AND COMPOSITION Carlo C. Galli Water Resources Manager - Sanpellegrino SpA he Acqua Panna concession area is located in Italy’s region of Tuscany, in the municipalities of Scarperia and Barberino di Mugello (Florence). Acqua Panna is a part of an aquifer located on the main watershed’s south flank in the local northern Apennine mountain belt section, between the Futa Pass and Mount Gazzaro. The sources are found at an altitude of around 900 meters above sea level. The bottling plant is located in the lower southern part of the concession area, at about 550 meters above sea level, and the water is piped in from the sources through stainless steel pipelines. The geology of the area can be outlined as follows: ■ ■ The spring water concession is 720 hectares wide and is fully owned by the company, which allows for the preservation of the countryside’s unspoiled nature. The environment is a typical mountain area covered with a thick forest and crossed by streams. ■ Detritic and weathered soils at the ground surface (Quaternary). Oligocene layered coarse sandstone in the Tuscan section. Clays in the Ligurian section, impermeable layers located below the sandstone and also in lateral contact in the southernmost portion of the concession. During the geological history of the Apennines, these formations (with the exception of the Quaternary soils) were involved in several geologic events through which the strata were shifted and reshaped with folds, major faults and fractures. The Quaternary deposits are made of weathered silty and clayey soils. The thickness of these impermeable soils and the bedrock A L L A B O U T M I N E R A L WAT E R T WC 17 A C Q U A PA N N A GEOLOGY AND COMPOSITION Acqua Panna circulates within the fractured aquifer made of Oligocene sandstone. It is a typical coarse quartz-feldspar sandstone interbedded by marl and clayey layers. The total thickness of this underground aquifer is several hundred meters. All sources located within the concession area are the expression of a unique hydrogeological basin, where the groundwater circulates only in the sandstone formation. The geological boundaries of the sandstone aquifer are constituted by the impervious clayey formations of the Ligurian sections. The groundwater circulates in the sandstone complex in a northwest/southeast direction until it meets the Ligurian sections and is forced to rise up to the surface (through natural springs) or it flows into hydrogeological traps where it is reached by means of vertical water wells and then pumped up to the surface. Villa Panna The sources’ hydrogeological recharge area is constituted by the Apennine watershed area, from Mount Gazzaro to far behind the Futa Pass, reaching out northwest to southeast for a total length of over eight kilometers. Natural isotope research has shown that Acqua Panna needs around 10-15 years to flow through the aquifer and reach the surface at the source area. The chemical composition clearly shows the uniqueness of the hydrogeological basin of the sources used for bottling Acqua Panna. No change in the main chemical parameters of the water occurs during heavy rains, which means that the aquifer is fully protected from the infiltration of surface water at its depth. Acqua Panna has a moderate dissolved salt content, with a very well-balanced chemical composition that is distinctive thanks to the presence of small quantities of nearly all the major chemical elements, such as calcium, magnesium and silica. A L L A B O U T M I N E R A L WAT E R above the groundwater aquifer is around 100 meters or more. They protect the deep water strata from any local surface infiltration. WC 19 C O N S E RVAT I O N O F WAT E R eing absolutely colourless and having the faintest of aromas and barely noticeable taste, water is an extremely delicate product, and the presence of any foreign substance can alter its organoleptic properties. Before reaching the table, water bottles are constantly submitted to all kinds of environmental stress, such as knocks, changes in temperature, alternating light and darkness, and exposure to the ultraviolet light from the sun – all phenomena that could alter the organoleptic sensations of the product, which cannot be seen by the naked eye but which in some cases bring about a distinct change in the taste. The best possible storage for bottles of mineral water is in a clean, cool, well-ventilated place, away from the sunlight, and from smoke and fumes, or whatever other substances that might impregnate the water with their odour. These conditions serve to keep the water with the same properties it had at the time of bottling, and must be observed throughout the water’s transit from the bottling plant and during its transportation to the point of sale, and thence to the customer. More often than not, bottles of water are left standing in inappropriate places for considerable time, as people mistakenly believe that no alteration to the contents will take place. Instead it is worth starting straight away to provide the best conditions of storage so that the product’s qualities are conserved. Mineral waters are eminently safe products and are constantly subjected to controls at the source; however, as with food products, it is advisable to check the use-by date, and also to avoid stocking up large quantities that will not be consumed in reasonable time. Once the bottles reach the storing place they should be left in their cartons, or placed vertically on shelves. In this way broken bottles can be removed, and the labels remain intact. Bottles stored thus should be occasionally dusted, and attention given to their rotation on the shelves, so that the earlier purchases are kept to the front and new stock put at the rear. To sum up, in order to reach the dining table in perfect condition, water should be treated with the same care and attention accorded to any other food product. A L L A B O U T M I N E R A L WAT E R B WC 21 WAT E R S E RV I C E n restaurateurs’ technical jargon, “service” is used to designate all phases that make a client’s stay at the restaurant efficient, seamless and enjoyable. Service, therefore, does not consist only of presenting guests with beverages and food, but includes an entire series of tasks that must be performed before they arrive and after they have left the restaurant. Every detail of water service must therefore be done with great attention and care. During the purchasing phase, the restaurateur should not buy mineral water simply by indicating the number of cases of still and sparkling bottles. He should also consider, determine Restaurant Chatulle - Milano and foresee how many bottles per type and per brand are needed after having carefully assessed the menu and thought of the correct food-wine-water matching. A few hours before opening the restaurant, and in any case before each service, it is necessary to ensure that an adequate number of bottles of still and sparkling water are perfectly intact and clean, discarding those whose labels are damaged or missing, and using a damp cloth to carefully clean those that are spotted, dusty or smudged. The bottles are then placed in appropriate refrigerated areas so that they can reach the proper serving temperature (810°C for S.Pellegrino and 1012°C for Acqua Panna). A L L A B O U T M I N E R A L WAT E R I WC 23 WAT E R S E RV I C E WC 24 serving water an easier task. Both glasses, which have been inspected for perfect cleanliness, should be on the table, turned upright, when the client arrives. Remember that water glasses should remain at the clients’ disposal until they have left the table. One of these two glasses may be removed only in the event that a guest makes the clear, specific request to have only one of the two kinds of water for the entire duration of the meal. As soon as the clients have been seated at the table, it is best to offer them water, asking which brand and which type they prefer to quench their thirsts or whet their appetites while they are selecting their food and wine. Only at a later point will the rules of harmonization, as explained previously, be applied. While pouring the water, precise instructions should be followed. The water should be presented in the original glass container and not decanted into a carafe, as this would lead it to lose some of its organoleptic properties. In addition, the clients should know what product they are consuming and also be allowed to read the label. As is true for a bottle of wine, when taken to the table a bottle of mineral water is to be “presented” and its organoleptic properties are to be described briefly. The bottle should then be opened in the presence of the client, with care being taken not to damage the bottle neck. The cap is to be placed on a small dish so as to allow for later recapping of the bottle, if required. To pour water, the bottle is held by its lower section, ensuring that the label remains perfectly visible to the client. The guest’s Things that should never be added to mineral water If the need arises to chill water rapidly, place the bottle in a chiller or in the freezer for a few minutes. However, never serve ice in a glass of water. Adding ice strongly alters the flavor of the water, creating a mixture of two waters with completely different natures. Also avoid adding lemon juice or lemon slices, although many believe this to be offering water that better quenches the thirst. Water is the most thirst-quenching product that nature has to offer, and the addition of other substances changes its intrinsic characteristics and properties. Finally, avoid adding still water to sparkling water or vice versa, as you would likely end up ruining two prodigies of nature in one feel swoop. glass should be filled a single time, around 2/3 of the way up. Serving is done preferably on the client’s right. Empty bottles are to be promptly replaced. If it is necessary to keep the bottle chilled, use a chiller. One final recommendation: when a guest comes to the restaurant for the first time, do not delve too far into possible matchings and the characteristics of the water you are offering unless the client himself requests this. Generally, clients are already on the spot about which wine to select. Guide the client and direct him in the selection of the mineral water with discretion, ensuring that he perceives the different organoleptic properties in the two products as well as the pleasantness of the various matchings. A L L A B O U T M I N E R A L WAT E R A L L A B O U T M I N E R A L WAT E R Among the preliminary service phases are the mise en place, that is the accurate setting of the table, which requires great attention and precision. Two different water glasses may be used, one for still and the other for sparkling water. These are placed in the upper central section of the setting, above the place card or above the napkin, somewhat separated from the wine glasses. Moving from right to left, first we position the one for still water and then the one for sparkling water. Arranging the glasses in this manner makes WC 25 W ater, H2O, is a simple product. All of us are familiar with its formula as well as, in some cases, its molecular structure and the type of bonds that allow it to be a liquid. Yet this simple product acquires different and particularly complex characteristics and attributes when enriched with minerals as it moves through terrains with different compositions. Water accompanies us throughout our lives and it is indispensable that we drink a certain amount of it every day. These are the fundamental reasons why we “gobble it” on a daily basis with such indifference. Actually, people don’t really know this product; instead, they use it and get all they can from it. Loving and appreciating water means completely forgetting its function as a hydrating beverage of everyday consumption. It means seeing it as a refined beverage whose organoleptic properties are remarkably interesting and appealing. When one succeeds in recognizing the organoleptic properties of a water, one does not drink it only to quench one’s thirst, but also to appreciate its flavor and aromas. Thus, one changes from inattentive consumer to refined enthusiast. Little by little, one’s understanding of water grows, just as one’s epicurean pleasure in consuming it increases. To become enthusiasts and, at a later time, skilled tasters, the path to be followed is quite brief. Although it does present some obstacles, these are easily overcome. Most of all, it is indispensable to learn to understand what the sense organs convey to the brain and to learn some basic notions that allow us to describe the sensations experienced to others. Performing a water tasting means conducting a rational and conscious investigation without any preconceptions. It means committing all of the senses at our disposal to classifying its merits and flaws through systematic analysis. In conducting such an analysis, the taster must be objective and without bias. He must concentrate on expressing an assessment that is coherent and impartial, and use very precise rules and methodologies for this assessment. There are various elements that determine the characteristics of a water: its pH, its percentage and “quality” of dissolved carbon dioxide, and its varying degree of qualitative and quantitative mineralization. Finally, as no water is identical to any other, and each one has its own personality and characteristics, it is necessary to conduct both a sensorial analysis and a laboratory analysis, two studies that can be mutually supportive. Therefore, the ultimate objectives of water tasting are numerous: learning to appreciate this beverage, drinking it with the aim of perceiving its qualities, being able to select which one would be best matched with wine and food, and, last but not least, being able to describe it so that we may speak of it with competence and knowledge. T H E WAT E R TA S T I N G WHY CONDUCT A WAT E R TA S T I N G ? WC 27 TA S T I N G T O O L S he glass has always been entrusted with the function of containing a liquid that is to be brought to the lips and consumed. To perform this function, containers of various materials and shapes have been created over the centuries. Terracotta, wood, metal, plastic, paper and glass are materials with which such containers are produced today, but tastings rigorously require that the glass used be in crystal or some form of crystal glass. These materials are without rival in terms of reactivity to light and shadow. They are also hygienic, durable, compact, do not reflect light and are perfectly transparent. Finally, they are capable of taking on and maintaining the desired form. Glasses come in an infinite variety of shapes. As the “success” of a tasting glass depends on its allowing for the proper organoleptic assessment, it is necessary to identify the most suitable shape for perceiving aromas and tastes, even those that are well hidden. And so, glasses are designed specifically and primarily for its users to appreciate every nuance of a water, to prolong and exalt the pleasure of its freshness and even to beautify and complete the dining table. Given that a glass is of such fundamental importance during organoleptic assessments and tastings, when dealing with two waters having different characteristics one needs two containers of different shapes, one for still water and one for sparkling water (and therefore one for S.Pellegrino and one for Acqua Panna). These two types of glasses have some characteristics in common and others that are different. In common they have the material with which they were made, the absence of edges and sharp angles, the absence of a stem, and their thinness, particularly around the rim. The difference, instead, is found in their shape (in particular that of the mouth and the bottommost part of the glass’ bowl), which have been specially selected for the type of water to be examined. It has been unquestionably determined that glass is the only material with which a tasting should be conducted. That the absence of edges allows for easy and perfect cleaning of the container is similarly obvious. T H E WAT E R TA S T I N G T WC 29 TA S T I N G T O O L S WC 30 molecules with a high molecular weight. Furthermore, in the organoleptic analysis of water, it is not necessary to rotate the glass nor to hold it in one’s hand for a lengthy period of time. Finally, the rim of the glass must be thin because this will facilitate contact with the lips and the passage of the water into the mouth and will therefore assist in the perception of its flavors. Yet why two different glasses, one for Acqua Panna with a wide mouth, and another for S.Pellegrino, with a narrow mouth? The glass designed for Acqua Panna allows for the nose to move in closer towards the water and consequently to better perceive its delicate, subtle aromas. In addition, the wide, flared mouth makes it easier for the taster to take generous sips so that the pleasurable sensation is perfectly perceptible and prolonged for a few seconds. For S.Pellegrino, instead, the glass narrow mouth maintains its “perlage” at length and prompts the head to be lifted back, a position which allows for very small quantities to be consumed with each sip. This has the aim of controlling the flow of the liquid onto the taste receptors and directing them towards the areas of the tongue that are more sensitive to the perception of specific sensations, in particular that of acidity, which generates the sensation of freshness. This type of container also concentrates the water’s aromas, which becomes indispensable and necessary in making the correct matchings with wines having high contents of extract and tannins as well as strong aroma sensations. Cleaning the Glasses T he glass is the taster’s fundamental tool, just as the needle is for the tailor and the paintbrush is for the painter. Therefore, just as a tailor cannot work with a bent, broken needle and the painter cannot work with a stiff, dirty paintbrush, the taster, or the person who organizes a tasting, must see to it that the glasses that are to be used are perfectly clean, spotless, without residues and odorless. One rule, which might initially seem to be little hygienic, yet is still valid every time one is washing glasses, is never to use detergents to clean them. This is because cleansing products contain odorous substances which, if not thoroughly removed through rinsing, can mingle with the delicate aromas of the water to be tasted, which would compromise the olfactory analysis. When using a tasting glass for the first time, one must conduct a particularly thorough washing. This washing must be done first with warm water and then with vinegar, making sure that the latter perfectly bathes the entire surface of the glass walls. This careful operation is needed to perfectly remove greasy residues and dust which can accumulate on the glass. Following this, one should rinse the glass with generous amounts of hot water, making sure that the pungent odor of the vinegar is completely removed. A final rinse should be done with demineralized water so that the glass will dry when turned upside down without any risk of the formation of spots due to lime deposits and without the need to resort to drying the glass with a towel. In the event that this particular rinsing step is not done, it will be necessary to carefully dry the glass with a cloth that does not leave behind odors or any traces of fuzz. One example of a proper cloth is one T H E WAT E R TA S T I N G T H E WAT E R TA S T I N G Yet less understandable and evident is that the glass should be without a stem. In fact, we have always been told that the glass must have a stem and a foot, which is to be held between the thumb and index finger so as to avoid heating the liquid contained inside. Instead, in this case, as the aromas of the water are so subtle and delicate (and even imperceptible at times) a slight degree of heating becomes necessary in order to facilitate the evaporation of the aroma STRUMENTI DI D E G U S TA Z I O N E WC 31 TA S T I N G T O O L S During the drying process, the glass must be held with the hand cupped open. It is allowed to drip, and then quickly dried on the outside. Following this, still holding the glass firmly by its base, insert one corner of the cloth inside the glass with the thumb and move it down until it reaches the bottom. Then rotate the glass, holding the cloth firmly so that it dries both the inside and the outside of the glass at the same time. Once an accurate cleaning has been done, the tasting glass is ready to be used. But it is better to proceed with a further check by holding the glass up against the light (in order to make sure that there are no deposits or spots) and by placing one’s nose over the mouth of the glass to check for the presence of odors. In the event that the glass is not in perfect condition, rinse and dry the glass once again. When this essential tasting tool has been perfectly cleaned, before proceeding with the organoleptic assessment, “prime” the glass with the water to be tasted. That is, place a small portion of water in the glass and have it run thoroughly along the sides of the glass and then remove it as thoroughly as possible, allowing it to drip out. At last, the glass is ready to be filled with the water to be tasted. After the tasting has been completed, clean the glass once again, excluding the phase of cleansing with vinegar. Rinsing the glasses with vinegar will be necessary at a later time in the event that the glasses have been stored in dusty, humid or unpleasant-smelling locations, if they have not been used recently, or if they have been left with traces of lipstick or fingerprints. T H E WAT E R TA S T I N G that is made of linen, has been set aside exclusively for this purpose and has been washed using unscented soap. WC 33 O rganoleptic analysis consists of the careful, meticulous, methodical and structured assessment, conducted with the sense organs, of a food or beverage. The sensorial stimulations, the perceptions and the information deriving from the external world are collected, classified and recorded by the receptors. Once perceived, the stimuli are transformed into nervous impulses and conveyed by the nerves to the centers of sensorial integration, which are located in a special region of the cerebral cortex. Following this, the cerebral cortex processes and defines the perception and generates the corresponding sensations. The sensations created are first filtered and sorted, then analyzed, corrected and completed, and finally classified and stored so that an archive is created by the higher centers of the brain. From this description, it is clear that – in order to carry out all of these steps and distinguish banal sensations from meaningful ones as well as express a judgment on what it is analyzing – our bodies must not only be accustomed to doing so but must also be in a suitable environment and physical Restaurant Gualtiero Marchesi - Albereta state. For the taster himself, calmness, good health, concentration and absence of fatigue are the ideal conditions, while those for the environment include soft lighting, a temperature of around 20°C and mild ventilation to avoid allowing odors to accumulate in the tasting room. Another aspect that limits the taster’s performance is acclimatization; after a certain number of tastings, the sense organs can no longer perceive the stimuli correctly because they have grown accustomed to the previous ones encountered and consequently have lost their sensitivity. In this case, it is best to suspend the tastings for a number of minutes. The components of the orchestra elected to play the instruments during tastings are the five senses: touch, hearing, sight, smell and taste. Touch is needed for the appreciation of a beverage’s physical qualities and is the first element that is put into play during a water tasting. Touch allows us to appreciate freshness when we take our first sip of water as soon as liquid is poured into the glass. Hearing is, in this case, the sense that is the least involved in the tasting, yet a trained ear can perceive the sound of the bubbles of sparkling water and the pleasing silence of still water. These imperceptible sonorous sensations are useful in completing and formulating a full understanding of the water that we are tasting. Sight, instead, plays a very important role. Man’s sensorial universe is essentially visual. Sight is constantly used in everyday life, whatever type of activity we are engaged in. Finally, it allows us to simultaneously compare samples, as long as there are not too many of them. In general, when one makes a selection and feels that a beverage may be considered enjoyable or not, one reacts first to color and then to smell. In fact, water that is cloudy or not perfectly clear is instinctively discarded. The visual analysis of water allows us to evaluate two fundamental elements: clarity and effervescence. One’s sense of smell has the veritably unequaled capacity to discriminate. T H E WAT E R TA S T I N G TA S T I N G TECHNIQUE WC 35 TA S T I N G TECHNIQUE The quantity of aroma compounds necessary to trigger olfactory sensations is somewhere around billionths of a milligram, yet in order to be recognized, the sensations must be far stronger. One’s memory of smells resists better over time than one’s memory of colors, yet the association of smells with their respective names is more difficult and complex than that of colors. In the case of water, our sense of smell allows us to identify the presence of abnormal smells. Finally we have taste, which is clearly one of the most important senses in selecting a food or beverage, particularly because of the pleasure derived from this. WC 36 Taste Taste is a chemical sense connected to the existence of special receptors located in the oral cavity. These are stimulated by ions in solution. The following characteristics are identified through gustative analysis: acidity, sapidity, structure, lightness and mouthfeel. Furthermore, taste is always connected to one’s sense of smell, and when one’s sense of smell is hindered, his sense of taste is “paralyzed”. The sensorial analysis that is connected to both the sensations of taste and those of smell is defined as “gustativeolfactory” analysis, which allows us to assess the balance and persistence of a beverage. Observe To conduct a correct sensorial analysis of waters, one must have all of the necessary tools at his disposal: ■ ■ ■ a sufficient number of glasses with the proper shape so that each sample has its own tasting glass tasting charts and a pen a carafe of tap water. ■ The process used to conduct a tasting is very rigorous as it has been carefully designed so as to allow for the perception of each nuance to be found in a water. ■ As soon as the bottle is opened, pour the water into the ■ appropriate glass. Fill the glass around 1/3 of the way up. Then take a generous sip of the water and immediately make an assessment of its freshness. Empty the remaining water from the glass and fill it once again 1/3 of the way up. First raise the glass to eye level and then lower it so as to observe the water from above. Horizontal and vertical evaluations of the water will allow for the identification of any foreign particles or abnormal colors. Most importantly, it will also allow the taster to appreciate the effervescence of sparkling water. Raise the glass up under your nose and breathe in deeply at Smell ■ ■ regular intervals. This step is to be repeated several times. If possible, it is to be done with one’s eyes shut in order to raise one’s concentration as much as possible so as to obtain olfactory responses even in the presence of a single aroma molecule. Take a sip of the sample amounting to around 15 ml. Allow it to rest on the tongue, then distribute it throughout the mouth. Lead the water to the back portion of the tongue and swallow. This process allows for the evaluation of acidity, sapidity, structure, lightness and mouthfeel. Once again, take a generous sip of the water, allowing it to rest Taste ■ on your tongue. Allow a small quantity of air into your mouth and exhale through your nose. Lead the water to the back portion of your tongue and swallow. The gustative-olfactory analysis will determine balance and persistence. Rinse your mouth with tap water and proceed with the analysis of the following sample. T H E WAT E R TA S T I N G Pour WC 37 USE OF THE WAT E R TA S T I N G S C O R E C A R D he scorecard is a taster’s vital tool for several reasons: it makes a subjective analysis as objective as possible, tries to arrange the perceptions felt by the 5 sense organs and those received by the brain, simplifies the taster’s task, avoids possible mistakes, evaluates the sensory perceptions in terms of quality and quantity and, last but not least, creates a common language among the “insiders”. The scorecard for water tasting is easily readable thanks to the reference mark next to each term. Agreeing on the meaning of the different technical terms is fundamental in order to give an objective opinion, as follows: F R E S H N E S S : pleasant gustative perception of natural cool E F F E RV E S C E N C E : quantity and size of the bubbles C L A R I T Y : lack of particles in suspension and transparency of the water U N P L E A S A N T S M E L L S : olfactory perception of unpleasant smells A C I D I T Y : perception of freshness which is felt as soon as the mouth is filled with water and immediately after swallowing S AP I D I T Y : perception coming from different kinds of salts S TR U C T U R E : global evaluation of body complexity and water richness L I G H T N E S S : ability to “rest softly” on the gustatory bulbs S O F T N E S S : gustative perception which is typical of a delicate, tonic and almost velvety water B AL A N C E : a “wrapping” sensation coming from an existing harmony among the various gustative perceptions P E R S I S T E N C E : duration of the different olfactory and gustative perceptions in the mouth and nose NB: The terms are in the exact order in which the perceptions are felt if tasting in sequence. Each item can be evaluated from 0 to 10 (using only even numbers): 0 is the minimum while 10 is the maximum. Scores: 0: no sensory perception 2: limited but recognizable sensory perception 4: clear perception 6: intense and sharp perception 8: persistent and pleasant perception immediately felt in the nose and mouth 10: saturation of sensory perception on the gustatory bulbs T H E WAT E R TA S T I N G T WC 39 TA S T I N G S.PELLEGRINO S.PELLEGRINO & ACQUA PANNA Pellegrino is brilliant, lacking in any distracting odour, with a fairly dense perlage of reasonably fine bubbles in abundance. The immediate impression on the taste buds is one of tingling freshness, followed by moderate With its pleasing taste and rich structure, S.Pellegrino covers big part of the properties on the right-hand side of the scorecard. acidity that stimulates salivation, while the high mineral content leaves a pleasant aftertaste. Generally speaking, S.Pellegrino has a commendable structure, and leaves behind a persistent and gratifying sensation. T H E WAT E R TA S T I N G S. WC 41 TA S T I N G A C Q U A PA N N A S.PELLEGRINO & ACQUA PANNA cqua Panna is limpid and luminous and has neither effervescence nor any offputting odour, and at the first sip has a pleasant, fresh taste. Acqua Panna is low-acid in type, and carries few mineral salts, without however impairing its Acqua Panna’s predominant properties of lightness and low-mineral content are evenly distributed through the scorecard. structure. To the taste it is light as a feather, pleasantly soft and velvety. Acqua Panna shows a perfect balance in all its components, while the sensations induced linger in the nose and mouth for an appreciable period of time. T H E WAT E R TA S T I N G A WC 43 with a weak-structured wine that does not linger on the palate, and so prefers a well structured vintage that imposes itself, making a rich combination of flavours that complement each other. Hence, in order to ensure a perfectly harmonious match, we apply the principle of mutual accord between the sensations. By this principle, to blend properly with the wine it accompanies, the water must be either equal, or slightly above or below in intensity of taste with respect to the wine. Whereas, according to the principle of counterbalance, the sensations induced in the one offset those in the other, neutralising each other, so to speak. If the wine is of the type that lingers long in the mouth, it should be harmonized with a water of like personality that is capable of contrasting the intense sensations of the wine. Hence its function is to “clean” and “free” the palate of residue sensations that might inhibit the pleasure of the ensuing sips of wine. Harmonization through accord occurs when a softer, suave wine is accompanied by a similarly smoother water. In this case the blending of smoother taste factors serves to avoid the two fluids clashing or, worse, one overpowering the other with a dominant taste. In this way the softer notes of alcohol and lightness on the tongue are enhanced, because the slight warmth induced by the wine is prolonged by a smoother water, whereas that pleasant lingering would be checked immediately if a stronger type of water overran the taste buds. Furthermore, the acidity, flavour, and tannic levels of the wine are flanked by comparable acidity and tanginess in the water to stimulate salivation, thereby compensating for the dryness in the throat caused by the tannin, and aiding the general “rinsing” of the mouth. Knowing how to match wine and water is an art, but is by no means difficult to master. The guidelines we have provided here are enough if accompanied by direct experience, by experimenting and become more aware of these sensations during every meal. & nce the taste connoisseur has mastered the many subtle facets of water’s particular effects on the taste buds, he can now learn how to harmonize the two components, water and wine, to reach the perfect combination that brings out the qualities of both, and hence avoid being accused of any prejudice toward either of these two noble fluids. Sipped alternately, wine and water should induce a sequence of sensations that follow and overlap each other, without either one overpowering or annulling the other. The correct gastronomical accord or balance consists not only in the nature of the sensations induced, but also in their quantity. For example, with its velvety lightness, Acqua Panna is not suited to a full-bodied wine with a bold structure, which would swamp the water’s pleasant delicacy, and instead blends magnificently with a soft, suave wine having a moderate alcohol level. Quite the opposite is true for S.Pellegrino – with its fresh tangy appeal it is incorrectly paired H A R M O N I Z I N G WAT E R O WINE HARMONIZING WAT E R & W I N E WC 45 HARMONIZING: RULES AND EXCEPTIONS ■ ■ ■ Young red wines beaujolais style: this type of wine is distinctly fruity; the flavour is fresh, fragrant and looser owing to the lack of tannins, and its highlights blend equally well with either S.Pellegrino or Acqua Panna. ■ Young red wines: these have intense fragrance reminiscent of herbs and small red fruits; the palate perceives a pointed acidity and tannin level and a welcome persistence on the tongue, Fresh and fr uity white wines: their simple and fragrant organoleptic characteristics are revealed in the colour, bouquet and taste, generally reminiscent of fruit itself; for these the recommendation is Acqua Panna. White wines aged in barrels: in this case the aromas and taste factors of the wine are more complex; the contact with wood enhances the fruity aroma and Rosé wines offer a vast range of organoleptic features that depend on the production technologies and, consequently, when they are young, fresh and light they blend readily with Acqua Panna; when they have a higher alcohol content they are best matched with S.Pellegrino. factors that match it well with S.Pellegrino. ■ Slightly-bodied red wines: belonging to this category are wines that have secondary aromas lingering below the surface, hinting at mature fruit, spices, and various aromas; such wines are widely appreciated, and offer a pleasant, balanced taste spectrum, and therefore harmonize perfectly with S.Pellegrino. ■ Full-bodied, mature red wines: wines in this bracket have strong personality and an ample, complex bouquet; on the tongue they are round and smooth although an edge is clearly perceivable; owing to this persistent flavour and the high tannin, such aged reds harmonize admirably with S.Pellegrino. ■ Aromatic sweet sparkling wines: wines of this type are usually served with the dessert, owing to their light and lively fragrance, making them an ideal combination with Acqua Panna. WINE ■ even adds a gentle tang of spice; the taste is round and the alcohol warms the tongue; this kind of wine is perfectly matched with Acqua Panna owing to its light and smooth tone. & he practice of harmonizing water with wine involves a wide set of variables, and the solutions in terms of taste are practically limitless, and in many cases unrepeatable. The fact is that, while water presents a constant set of organoleptic characteristics, (if properly preserved) wine can be considered an authentic nutritional substance and boasts a range of smell and taste factors that vary considerably. Despite this, it is worth providing a few guidelines on how and what to choose, and which type of harmonizing is preferable or to be excluded. H A R M O N I Z I N G WAT E R T WC 47 HARMONIZING: RULES AND EXCEPTIONS As can be expected, any fixed set of rules is bound to encounter objection and confutation, and indeed the exceptions that follow offer situations, cases, and particular products in which the aforesaid “rules” of harmonization between water and wine may readily be subverted. ■ Classic sparkling wines and champagne with vintages: these ■ ■ Great red wines: where these wines are drunk alone and not during the meal, they should be accompanied by Acqua Panna, so as to savour at greater length the effect on the palate, and therefore appreciate each successive sip. Full-bodied white wines with a strong str ucture that have been aged in the barrique and in the bottle to acquire those characteristic, persistent aromas and flavours, can only be properly harmonized with the intense sparkle of S.Pellegrino water. ■ White wine ser ved for aperitif are the ideal with S.Pellegrino again, because its carbondioxide favours the secretion of gastric juices and sharpens the appetite; by uniting this type of wine with S.Pellegrino one achieves the purpose itself of the aperitif: the organism is prepared for the coming meal. WINE Sparkling wines, and champagne without vintage: these products are particularly eclectic, and their pointed, fresh flavour is due to their acidity; they are served to accompain the whole meal, and are perfectly suited to either S.Pellegrino or Acqua Panna. must be accompanied exclusively by Acqua Panna because they boast refined, elegant aromas and flavours, in addition to offering a perfectly harmonious taste spectrum. & ■ For tified wines: these can be either dry or sweet; the sensations they provoke are highly varied, starting with the effect on the palate, where they present a smooth tone warmed by the alcohol and a tangy freshness on the tongue and an intense sensation good measure of acidity; this versatility makes them suitable equally for either Acqua Panna or S.Pellegrino. H A R M O N I Z I N G WAT E R ■ WC 49 S.Pellegrino WAT E R & W I N E H A R M O N I Z AT I O N C H A RT Acqua Panna Acidity: Water Tannins: Wine Alcohol content: Water Wine Softness: Sweetness: Water Water Wine Wine Persistence: 0 = lowest 10 = highest he water&wine harmonization chart may look difficult at sight. That’s why we have tried to realize a graphic-technical method which could give useful instructions to people approaching this subject for the first time. In this card the geometrical figures concerning the sensory perceptions of Acqua Panna (orange) and S.Pellegrino (blue) have become a graphic thanks to the data obtained from the tasting scorecard used previously. To fill in the harmonization chart it is necessary to analyze and evaluate the wine using a number between 0 and 10 (all numbers in between should be taken into account: use 0 when the palate doesn’t feel any sensory perceptions and 10 when the palate feels the maximum level of perceptions) and write down the chosen number in the given boxes of the water&wine harmonization chart. S A P I D I T Y : perception coming from different kinds of mineral salts A C I D I T Y : quality which stimulates salivation TANNINS: astringent perception which puckers the tissue of the mouth ALCOHOL: perception determined by the alcoholic degree, which gives a sensation of warmth or even burning P E R S I S T E N C E : duration of different olfactory and gustative perceptions in the mouth and nose S O F T N E S S : wine having a fine, round texture and a pleasant consistency Enjoyable and harmonious in the mouth SWEETNESS: sweet taste given by the presence of residual sugars E F F E RV E S C E N C E : small bubbles of carbonic acid giving a pleasant “itching” sensation S TR U C T U R E : full-bodied wine rich in alcohol and extraction elements B A L A N C E : it characterizes a wine whose organoleptic components are in perfect harmony All the items suggested to help evaluate the wine are gustative and gustative-olfactory and concern: To complement this card some suitable boxes have been added: they indicate some values the taster may decide not to use to drawn the diagram, but as an interesting source of extra information on water and wine. Mark the chosen value with a point on the cartesian axis (when you have more than one value use the highest one). Join the different points to obtain a polygon. If the polygon is similar to the orange one, the wine will perfectly match with Acqua Panna. On the contrary, if it is more similar to the blue one, the wine will harmonize better with S.Pellegrino. Last but not least, when the drawn polygon is similar to both the blue one and the orange one, the wine can match with both waters and the final choice could be made on the basis of a third crucial element: food. WINE Sapidity: & T Wine H A R M O N I Z I N G WAT E R Water WC 51 T he first written text dedicated to water and how to harmonize it with wine would have remained incomplete if certain distinguished sommeliers of national and international renown had not been invited to join in the “discussion”. Any debate on this argument in fact involves assessing the organoleptic properties of wine and water in their entirety, as well as their innermost, recondite nuances of aroma and flavour. inducing him to explore memorable new experiences at the dining table. This is why each one of the sommeliers convened chose a wine of a particular quality within a known type, describing it in technical though often surprisingly poetic terms, so as to foster greater understanding of the product, and help the newcomer to grasp the procedures for harmonizing a given wine with one of the two mineral waters discussed. The sommelier is the principal professional figure equipped to make such assessments, since part of his or her professional knowhow is to distinguish and identify taste factors in infinite detail. Prompted by the need to perfect their art, sommeliers are always keen to discover products from all over the globe, be they already acclaimed or otherwise littleknown. Furthermore, owing to their unique capabilities, sommeliers also attract the attention of the client, establishing his trust and While these experts have a special way of speaking of water and wine, describing with the utmost ease the exquisite properties of these two products, they have also provided some interesting pointers on the “pleasant debate” on how and where to harmonize the two. It is owing to their daily professional activity, in which they are in constant contact with the consumer, that they can successfully “relate” their remarkable new gastronomical experiences. THE OPINION OF ELEVEN EXPERTS THE OPINION O F E L E V E N E X P E RT S WC 53 MARKUS DEL MONEGO Best Sommelier of the World 1998 T his wine produced with noble riesling vines with its intense mineral traces boasts a panoply of ultra-fine aromas of yellow fruit, iodate and spices, saffron, white pepper, and a closing aura of acacia honey. To the palate it presents plenty of structure and a persistent note of freshness, which confers a touch of mettle and elegance. Despite the nicely delayed intensity of the taste, the fluid seems to float, such is its lightness, which is why Acqua Panna makes such an ideal harmonizer. THE OPINION OF ELEVEN EXPERTS RIESLING SPÄTLESE Germany WC 55 SERGE DUBS Best Sommelier of the World 1989 T his Champagne has an abundant mousse with fine and persistent bubbles. The aroma is rich with keen notes of white fruit, flowers, white pepper and breadcrusts. In the mouth it is generous, pleasantly creamy with a strong but agreeable acidity that holds the structure together. The concluding sensations consist of a persistent note of freshness that combines equally well with Acqua Panna or S.Pellegrino. The harmonization with Acqua Panna will be perfect if the aim is to take the edge off the wine and ideal with S.Pellegrino if one prefers to accentuate the taste and freshness. If served with a dessert, the choice of water is determined by the third variable of the type of dessert on the menu. THE OPINION OF ELEVEN EXPERTS CHAMPAGNE France WC 57 E VA N L A M B E R T Former President of the American Sommelier Association T he speciality of this Chardonnay is its solid structure and the array of subtle fragrances with nuanced aftertastes. First come the delightful apple aromas, harmoniously flanked by slightly sharper vanilla and banana, while the mouth immediately encounters the softer notes that barely conceal the rich fresh tones of acidity, and a reasonable persistence of flavour. This wine harmonizes perfectly with Acqua Panna, which helps bring out the wine’s structure and the pleasing notes of freshness, affirming a well-proportioned balance and wholesome personality. THE OPINION OF ELEVEN EXPERTS CHARDONNAY - SONOMA USA WC 59 DANIEL A KRAMARIC Best Sommelier of Croatia 2000 and 2001 T he deep red hue reflects the personality of this Shiraz. Its aroma is tinged with spices, flowers, and fruit buds such as blackberry and eucalyptus, which elicit a sustained and elegant trail of spicy aromas such as black pepper and wood, which mingle with typical scents of this kind of soil. The intensity of the fruit merges perfectly with the tannins, sustaining the sensation for considerable length. A “dense” wine that harmonizes perfectly with S.Pellegrino, owing to the latter’s own persistence. In this case, both the water and the wine leave an abiding and pleasant echo on the palate. THE OPINION OF ELEVEN EXPERTS COONAWARRA SHIRAZ Australia WC 61 K Á L MÁ N KOZMA President of the Hungarian Sommelier Association T he gilded hue with gentle notes of amber and a spectacular bouquet bringing hints of ripe fruits as quince, dried fruit as hazelnuts and almonds, together with dashes of apricot, honey, and spices, make this product quite unique in its spectrum of expression. The effect on the palate is complex: lively acidity harmoniously combined with its full structure a true spectacle of harmonious sensations of sweetness, with a smooth and appealing balance. Its structure is elegant and refined, and it terminates with long and pleasant notes of chestnut, dried figs and dates. The alcohol content enhances the gustative sensations. It is eminently simple to harmonize this wine: the best suited is S.Pellegrino if the aim is to sustain the plucky mineral qualities of the wine; and Acqua Panna instead if prolonging the wine’s persuasive sweetness is preferred. THE OPINION OF ELEVEN EXPERTS TOKAJI ASZÚ 6 PUTTONYOS Hungary WC 63 P H I L I P P E FAU R E - B R A C Best Sommelier of the World 1992 V intage Port is a sumptuous wine with a deep and rich violet hue. First impressions include herbaceous aromas with notes of blackberry cut with points of violet, bitter chocolate, coffee, and spices. On the tongue it is assertive and in some cases offers an explosion of taste. The warm body blends marvellously with the hints of red fruits and buds, giving the wine an unusual softness and smoothes the edges of the tannins, bringing harmony. Consequently, Vintage Port requires a water with character, relatively acidic, but most of all persistent in taste, such as S.Pellegrino. The resulting match is unforgettable! THE OPINION OF ELEVEN EXPERTS VINTAGE PORT Portugal WC 65 NIKOS LOUKAKIS Best Sommelier of Greece of 1998 and 2000, Winner of Trophée Ruinart A ssyrtiko has a bright yellow colour, which is very typical especially from those of Santorini, with light green hints. The wine looks consistence with slow tears coming down explaining the alcoholic potential of the wine. The nose has medium intensity, and persistence with delicate aromas of mature citrus fruits, white flowers and minerality. The mouth is dry, warm and with high acidity which is refreshing the mouth. The minerality is more pronounced in the mouth and the citrus flavours we found in the nose still exists and giving a medium palate and is balanced according to its typicity. The wine is harmonious and should be drunk young (2 years from the vintage), chilled at 10 °C with Acqua Panna. THE OPINION OF ELEVEN EXPERTS ASSYRTIKO OF SANTORINI Greece WC 67 MARC FRIEDERICH Best Sommelier of Suisse 1991, Winner of Trophée Ruinart P inotage is a deep red wine with flashes of purple. Its gamut of aromas include red fruit such as plum, together with blackberry and raspberry, and a hint of banana. On the palate it presents a worthy structure, its body rich in alcohol and a good tannin balance, and tails off with a smooth and persistent afterglow. This type of wine harmonizes ideally with S.Pellegrino, whose distinct taste and freshness lends a noble touch and ensures harmony and balance on the palate. The coupling with S.Pellegrino effectively enhances the organoleptic properties of both liquids. THE OPINION OF ELEVEN EXPERTS PINOTAGE South Africa WC 69 G I U S E P P E VA C C A R I N I Best Sommelier of the World 1978 T o the eye this wine is an intense ruby with subtle flecks tending toward garnet. Its aromas include traces of cherry, blackberry, plum, and violet, which emerge from a delicate and compact gamut of noble sweet spices such as cinnamon, and from delicate hints of leather, tobacco, and chocolate. On the tongue it evinces personality, offering a perfect balance between the sharper tannic edges and the softer, rounded sensations of the alcohol. It terminates with a remarkable persistence in the mouth, offering subtle notes of mature fruit and spices. The harmony established between a “classic” Chianti Rufina and S.Pellegrino is perfection itself: the two products never clash, but lead in the same direction, leaving the mouth clean and imbued with lasting, pleasant sensations. THE OPINION OF ELEVEN EXPERTS CHIANTI RUFINA Italy WC 71 HECTOR VERGARA President of the Associación Sommeliers de Chile V ery deep, concentrated black cherry colour with violets overtones. The nose displays smoky cedar, new leather, blackberries with hints of menthol, aniseed, and spices. The taste is full-bodied, structured, with finely grained tannins, mingling with berry flavours, rich and soft texture, all this being finely framed by cigar box like scents, tobacco and chocolate notes. The aftertaste is long and very persistant. Cabernet-sauvignon harmonizes ideally with S.Pellegrino, as the sustained taste of the wine perfectly matches the intense notes of the water. THE OPINION OF ELEVEN EXPERTS CABERNET-SAUVIGNON Chile WC 73 C È Z A R C A N O VA S Best Sommelier of Spain 2002 R ioja is an excellent wine produced with tempranillo vines; it as deep ruby hue with a hint of slightly orange-red at the borders. Its bouquet is rich in aftertastes that denote tobacco leaves, leather, vanilla, liquorice and mature blackberries, redcurrant and trail into notes of wood and noble spices. In the mouth it triggers a keen sense of warmth which adequately offsets the sense of acidity and the tannins, which remains present but smooth. The fine, elegant structure carries the sensations through for some time, and it is best harmonized with S.Pellegrino. THE OPINION OF ELEVEN EXPERTS RIOJA RESERVA Spain WC 75 T H E S E N S AT I O N S OF FOOD ater, food and wine are basic features of every dinner. It comes to no surprise to anyone that food and wine are “paired” together, yet the notion that water must also harmonize with both of these may cause some to smile, shake their heads and be puzzled. There are many reasons why perfect harmony is needed among these three features. Creating the perfect harmony is therefore not a form of pretension or contrivance. It is virtually a need, an indispensable obligation so that we may be assured all of the pleasure that fine dining has to offer. The fundamental rule in pursuing, achieving and optimizing pleasure in dining is that neither the aroma nor the flavor of one of these three items should prevail over the others. By following this principle, we can say that for foods and wines that are not very intense or persistent in their sensations, the accompanying water must be still, with low fixed residue and a low quantity of salts, and therefore must be balanced, refreshing, soft and smooth with light, subtle aromas. On the other hand, the water that is best matched with foods and wines that are structured, complex and have full, persistent flavors and aromas should be slightly acidic, sapid, pleasingly refreshing and have medium-sized bubbles. At the end of the meal, if you wish to rinse your mouth in a manner that prolongs the soft, smooth sensations left on the palate by the dishes you’ve enjoyed, drink Acqua Panna. If, instead, you wish to remove the organoleptic sensations, choose S.Pellegrino. These are very general rules that need to be studied more deeply. The harmonization between water, wine and food is a far too complex and articulated subject to be fully covered by these few words. It deserves to be further developed in a specific project. T H E S E N S AT I O N S O F F O O D W WC 77 Water THE S.PELLEGRINO & ACQUA PANNA C CO OD D EE X X A C K N OW L E D G E M E N T S TYPE OF SAMPLE TASTED OBSERVATIONS DATE TIME TASTING LOCATION Water Tasting Scorecard SIGNATURE 0 Wine tastings: Markus del Monego, Serge Dubs, Evan Lambert, Daniela Kramaric, Kálmán Kozma, Philippe Faure-Brac, Nikos Loukakis, Mark Friederich, Giuseppe Vaccarini, Hector Vergara, Cèzar Canovas 2 4 6 8 10 F RESHNESS E FFERVESCENCE Wine producers: Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi, Luis Guntrum, Moët & Chandon, St.Jean, Penfolds, Langasztrnomia KFT., Silva Tosens Ltd., Sigalas Wine Company, Simonsberg Stellenbosh, Almaviva, Unión viti-vinicola, S.A. C LARITY Special thanks to: Bormioli Rocco for Glassware Restaurant Gualtiero Marchesi - Albereta Restaurant Chatulle - Milano Association de la Sommellerie Internationale The students of the ASI course for specialization in “sommellerie” - Milano U NPLEASANT S MELLS A CIDITY The many friends who have taken part in this project S APIDITY Authors: Claudia Moriondo, Giuseppe Vaccarini and Carlo C. Galli S TRUCTURE Photographs: Michele Tabozzi Project: Besanopoli (Lorena Vivace and Valentina di Robilant) L IGHTNESS Translations: Leah Janeczko, Andrew Ellis, Patrizia Fiori Colour separation: M&A - Milano S OFTNESS Print: Grafiche Mariano - Mariano Comense - Como Printed in March 2005 for the S.Pellegrino-Acqua Panna International Business Unit ✃ B ALANCE P ERSISTENCE 0 = lowest 10 = highest USE OF THE WAT E R TA S T I N G S C O R E C A R D T he scorecard is a taster’s vital tool for several reasons: it makes a subjective analysis as objective as possible, tries to arrange the perceptions felt by the 5 sense organs and those received by the brain, simplifies the taster’s task, avoids possible mistakes, evaluates the sensory perceptions in terms of quality and quantity and, last but not least, creates a common language among the “insiders”. The scorecard for water tasting is easily readable thanks to a reference mark has been put next to each term. Agreeing on the meaning of the different technical terms is fundamental in order to give an objective opinion, as follows: F R E S H N E S S : pleasant gustative perception of natural cool E F F E RV E S C E N C E : quantity and size of the bubbles C L A R I T Y : lack of particles in suspension and transparency of the water U N P L E A S A N T S M E L L S : olfactory perception of unpleasant smells A C I D I T Y : perception of freshness which is felt as soon as the mouth is filled with water and immediately after swallowing S AP I D I T Y : perception coming from different kinds of salts S TR U C T U R E : global evaluation of body complexity and water richness L I G H T N E S S : ability to “rest softly” on the gustatory bulbs S O F T N E S S : gustative perception which is typical of a delicate, tonic and almost velvety water B AL A N C E : a “wrapping” sensation coming from an existing harmony among the various gustative perceptions P E R S I S T E N C E : duration of the different olfactory and gustative perceptions in the mouth and nose NB: The terms are in the exact order in which the perceptions are felt if tasting in sequence. Each item can be evaluated from 0 to 10 (using only even numbers): 0 is the minimum while 10 is the maximum. Scores: 0: no sensory perception 2: limited but recognizable sensory perception 4: clear perception 6: intense and sharp perception 8: persistent and pleasant perception immediately felt in the nose and mouth 10: saturation of sensory perception on the gustatory bulbs In this book Acqua Panna and S.Pellegrino share their long-standing knowledge in the field of mineral water with food and wine experts and enthusiasts. The methodical approach and analytical language, and above all the aim to provide a clear outline of how to appreciate and serve water at the dining table, justify the use of the Latin term “Codex” for the title of this book. 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