sunset magazine

SO BEST
FOOD SHOPS
IN THE WEST
..
At:
,d
W II
COOK
~OR ~UN
l.A ch8f Suzann8 Goin has
s8v8ral r8staurants but still
lov8s to mak8 food at hom8.
H8r g8nius ways with ingredi8nts
will h81p you c818brat8 th8
s8ason-wh8rev8r you ar8.
{BY PAIGE PORTER FISCHER
{PHOTOGRAPHS BY CEDRIC ANGELES
THE COUNTERS
ARE SPilliNG OVER
WITH RIPE ~IGS,
bright red and amber tomatoes, delicate haricots
verts, deep purple eggplant, and piles of fresh
herbs. "October in Southern California is like
summer everywhere else," says Suzanne Goin.
Coin, winner of two James Beard awards-for
best cookbook and best California chef-happily
cooks on her days off. "It's actually cathartic," she
says, tying on a slate gray apron, with the pitterpatter of children's feet in the background. "I get to
enjoy the 'hanging out' part of cooking-people
in
the kitchen, talking and sipping wine around me."
She's in the kitchen of her business partner and
close friend, Caroline Styne. They have four thriving
restaurants in LA: Lucques, Tavern, the Larder at
Maple Drive, and A.O.C., celebrating its loth anniversary this year. Goin is working on an A.O.C.
cookbook, due out next fall, and she's channeling
the restaurant as she makes tonight's menu. "It's
California cooking with a Mediterranean influence,
and it's all about communal eating, with shared
plates, which is, to me, the best way to eat."
MENU
Idinner
+~r8sh goat ch88s8 and
radicchio salad with figs
+H8irloom tomato and
haricot v8rt salad
+Merguez with chickp8a
pure8 and 8ggplant Jam
Idessert
+Vanilla pots de creme
with dark chocolat8 and
nasier almonds
Her food is fresh and sophisticated, yet doable
for us home cooks. She follows simple tenets:
"Produce that's at its peak should be the heart of
the meal," she says. "And I always have an anchor
dish that inspires the rest of the menu."
The spicy lamb merguez is Coin's anchor today,
accompanied by an eggplant-tomato jam that sings
of the season. The sausages are grilled an hour
before dinner, giving her time to enjoy family and
friends. In fact, most of the men u can be prepared
ahead. "I believe in dishes that can be served at
room temperature," she says. "That way, you're
not waiting by the stove for everything to come out
at once, and rushing it to the table to keep it warm."
The cooking complete, Goin trades her apron for
a dress and sits at the head of the table, with Styne's
family and her own. "I love cooking," she says. "But
the key for me to enjoy entertaining is to create a
meal that allows me time to be with the people
whose com pany I crave as much as the food." >78
LEFT, FROM TOP Grilled merguez (Moroccan-style lamb sausage);
fresh figs; making the heirloom tomato salad; at the table
RIGHT Gain and Styne (in silver top) regularly bringtheirfamilies
together for easygoing dinners.
76
Sunset October
2012
Fresh goat
cheese and
radicchio
salad with figs
WINE PAIRINGS
Styne, also the wine director
for A.D.C.,chooses Riesling for
the salads: "The goat cheese
and tomatoes work with wines
that show a bit of sweetness
as well as racy acidity" For
the sausages, Syrah. "Its dark
fruit and intense savoriness
reflect the gamy yet sweet
flavors in the meat."
IDomaine Ostertag 2010 Riesling
"Vignoble d'E" (A/sace. France; $30)
"The aroma is of peach and
honeysuckle; when you sip. you
get apricot and unripe stone
fruit, along with pumpkin-pie
spice and a long, rich finish."
lOr, for a Western choice:
Tatomer 2009 Riesling, Kick-on Ranch
(Santa Barbara Connty; $30)
"This young winemaker learned
from the masters of Riesling in
Austria. With classic Riesling
aromas of diesel (a good thing),
jasmine, and honeysuckle, the
wine itself has richness, yet
also bright acidity and intense
minerality."
After dinner, the families gather
around the pool. Often the children witt
just jump in. LE" Eggplant-tomato jam
ABOVE
ICopain 2009 Syrah, James Berry
Vineyard (Paso Robles; $60)
"This winemaker, Wells Guthrie,
is a genius. Full-bodied, with
dark berry fruits and a hint of
black olive and tar." >80
I
Sunset October 2012
79
,
RECIPES
Each of Goin's recipes is like a little cooking class, full of interesting
techniques that bring out the best in the beautiful ingredients she
has chosen. ~ollow her lead and you'll enjoy an afternoon of seeing
into the niind of a great chef-how she combines flavors, thinks
about textures, and creates the look of a dish. By the time you sit
down to this wonderful dinner, you'll be a better cook.
Fresh goat cheese and
radicchio salad with figs
SERVES
611lf4
\"
HOURS
Goin says, "I am less fussy about the variety (and even color) ofthe figs, as long
as they are super-juicy and full flavored.
Green figs are my favorite: Day-Glo green
on the outside and luscious, intense, and
deeply red inside. In Southern California,
they're usually at their best in late
September and into October."
5 large shallots, peeled and separated intolobes
About 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided
1 tbsp. unsalted butter
About 1 tsp. kosher salt, divided
Pepper
8 oz. log fresh goat cheese
6 super-ripe figs
1 small head radicchio (about 112 lb.)
1/4 cup loosely packed flat-leaf parsley leaves
2 tbsp. fresh lemon juice
About 1 tbsp. saba* or 1 tbsp. dark honey
thinned with 1 tsp. water
1. Cut
shallot lobes in half lengthwise, then
cut each half into thick wedges.
2. Heat a large (not nonstick) frying pan
over medium heat, then swirl in 2 tbsp.
oil and the butter. When butter begins to
foam, add shallots and stir to coat. Season
with
lf2
tsp. salt and a pi nch of pepper.
3. Reduce heat to medium-low and cook
shallots 15 minutes, stirring often. Reduce
the heat to low and cook, stirring every
2 to 3 minutes, until completely caramelized (deep golden brown), 15 to 25
minutes. Transfer to a plate to cool.
4. Meanwhile, roll cheese neatly in plastic
wrap to create a uniform log shape. Twist
80
Sunset October2012
ends of the plastic wrap tight androltlog
back and forth on a work surface a few
times to smooth out surface of cheese and
give it an even shape.
5. Cut figs into halves or quarters, depending on their size. Lay cut side up and season
with 1/2tsp. salt, pepper, and about
1tbsp. oil.
6. Cut radicchio lengthwise into 113-in.c
thick ribbons and put in a large bowl.
7. Toss radicchio with caramelized shallots,
GOIN SAYS ...
ICut appealing shapes "I don't like
things in little pieces. So I slice
radicchio in half [lengthwise]. take
out the core, then slice it into thin,
long ribbons."
parsley, and salt and pepper to taste. Driz. zle lemon juice, remaining 1tbsp. oil, and
2lf2 tsp. saba over salad. Toss to combine.
8. Run a thin, sharp knife under hot water
for a few seconds, then wipe it dry. (A
hot knife will slice soft goat cheese more
cleanly.) Remove plastic wrap from cheese
and slice cheese into 12 rounds (about
113 in. thick), slicing straight down and
reheating knife between slices. Season
with pepper.
9. Heap radicchio salad on a long platter
and tuck figs in between leaves. Place goat
cheese on salad, slightly overlapping the
slices. Drizzle a bit of saba and oil over
goat cheese and serve.
*Saba, also known as mosto cotto, is the
syrupy, cooked-down juice ofJreshly pressed
red grapes. It's been made in Italy since
Roman times. Find it in well-stocked grocery
stores and online.
PER SERVING
264
CAL., 65% (17l
CAL.)
FROM
FAT;
8.5 G PROTEIN;
20 G FAT [a.i G SAT.); 17 G CARBO
(2 G FIBER);
405 MG SODIUM;
22 MG CHOL.
Heirloom tomato and
haricot vert salad
SERVES
6
I 30
MINUTES
I
It's nice to use a mix of colors of tomatoes,
but make sure they all taste wonderfulflavor is most important.
About 1f2 tsp. kosher salt, plus more for
blanching beans
1/4 lb. haricots verts (thin green beans), tops
trimmed
1 tbsp. fresh oregano leaves
112 small garlic clove
21f4 tsp. red wine vinegar
1112 tsp. good-quality balsamic vinegar
3 tbsp. each extra-virgin olive oil and roasted
hazelnut oil*
112 tsp. lemon zest
Pepper
1/4 cup skinned toasted hazelnuts
11/4 lbs. heirloom tomatoes
112 bunch baby arugula
About 1 cup cherry tomatoes, stemmed and cut
in half
2 tbsp. creme fraiche
Pistou (recipe follows)
---J
WINE PAIRINGS
Styne, also the wine director
for A.D.C.,chooses Riesling for
the salads: "The goat cheese
and tomatoes work with wines
that show a bit of sweetness
as well as racy acidity." For
the sausages, Syrah. "Its dark
fruit and intense savoriness
reflect the gamy yet sweet
flavors in the meat"
IOomaine Ostertag 2010 Riesling
"Vignoble d'E" (A/sace, France; $30)
"The aroma is of peach and
honeysuckle; when you sip, you
get apricot and unripe stone
fruit, along with pumpkin-pie
spice and a long, rich finish."
lOr, for a Western choice:
Tatomer 2009 Riesling, Kick-on Ranch
(Santa Barbara County; $30)
"This young winemaker learned
from the masters of Riesling in
Austria. With classic Riesling
aromas of diesel (a good thing),
jasmine, and honeysuckle, the
wine itself has richness, yet
also bright acidity and intense
minerality,"
ABOVE After dinner, the families gather
around the pool. Often the children will
just jump in, LEFT Eggplant-tomato jam
ICopain 2009 Syrah. James Berry
Vineyard (Paso Robles; $60)
"This winemaker, Wells Guthrie,
is a genius. Full-bodied, with
dark berry fruits and a hint of
black olive and tar." >80
Sunset October 2012
79
a small pot of salted water to
boil, then blanch beans for 2 to 3 minutes,
until Just tender. Transfer with tongs to a
baking sheet to cool.
1. Bring
Make balsamic vinaigrette: Using a
mortar and pestle, pound oregano, garlic,
and a scant 1/4 tsp. salt to a paste (or chop
2.
garlic and oregano, sprinkle with the salt,
mince, and mash into a paste with the flat
side of a chef's knife). Transfer to a small
bowl and pour in vinegars. Whisk in olive
oil and taste for balance and seasoning.
hazelnut oil, lemon zest, and a
couple of pinches of salt and pepper in a
small bowl. Finely chop half of hazelnuts
3. Whisk
and stir into dressing; coarsely chop the
chopped flat-leaf parsley and pound in. Stir
in 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil and season to
taste with pepper and more salt.
PER TBSP.
124
CAL.,
97% (121
CAl.)
FROM
FAT; O.S G PROTEIN;
14 G FAT (2 G SAT.); 0.6 G CARBO (0.3 G FIBER); 96 MG
SODIUM;
0 MG CHOL.
Merguez with chickpea
. puree and eggplant jam
SERVES 6
I
2 HOURS
Merguez, an aromatic North African
2lbs. merguez, preferably in 6 individual coils*
10 to 15 dandelion greens or large arugula
with salt and pepper. Arrange slices on
1. Skewer
about a third of pistou onto and around
salad (serve the rest alongside).
*Find with the oils in well-stocked grocery
stores.
PER SERVING
1.9
G PROTEIN;
a medium pot over medium heat
2 minutes. Pour in 1/4 cup oil, wait 1 minute,
and then add onion, 3 cloves garlic, chile,
thyme, and bay leaf. Cook, stirring, until
onion softens, 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in
paprika, cinnamon, and cayenne; then stir
in chickpeas and 2 tbsp. water. Cook over
low heat, covered, stirring occasionally, 10
minutes to blend flavors. Season with salt
and let cool. Remove bay leaf.
Whirl chickpea mixture in a food processor with 2 tbsp. more water, salt and
pepper to taste, tahini, cumin, remaining
garlic, and 2 tbsp. oil. Puree until smooth,
7to 8 minutes, whirling in up to 2tbsp.
more oil and lf3 cup water to achieve a
2.
sausage usually made from lamb, takes
practically no time to grill. To skewer coiled
sausages, soak 8-in. wooden skewers in
water 20 minutes, then run 1 skewer sideways through each coil.
rest and stir in. Drizzle hazelnut dressing
over haricots verts, season with salt and
pepper, and toss together.
4. Hold heirloom tomatoes on their sides
and cut into 1/4-in.-thick slices. Season
a large round platter, overlapping them,
and spoon on about halfthe balsamic
vinaigrette. Scatter with arugula leaves.
5. Stir cherry tomatoes into remaining
vinaigrette in bowl and season with salt
and pepper. Pile in center of platter, then
top with haricots verts. Spoon on a few
dollops of creme fraiche and sprinkle
1. Heat
leaves
smooth, glossy consistency. Serve at room
temperature.
PER Ill-cup
7.2
Chickpea Puree (recipe follows)
SERVING
G PROTEIN;
339
CAL., 61% (208
24 G FAT (3.3
G SAT.);
26
CAL.)
FROM FAT;
G CARBO
(1 G FIBER); 223 MG SODIUM; 0 MG CHOL. >82
Eggplant Jam (recipe on page 82)
sausages if using coils. Heat a
grill to medium-low (300° to 350°) and
cook sausages, turning as needed, until
evenly browned outside and cooked all
the way through, about 15 minutes.
2. Rinse dandelion greens. Arrange on a
large platter with grilled sausage. Serve
with puree and jam.
*Find merguez at butcher shops. If you can't
jind coiled sausages, buy the individual links,
planning on 5 oz. per person.
PER 5 OZ. MERGUEZ
330 CAL., 57% (ass CAl.) FROM
30 G PROTEIN;
21 G FAT (0 G SAT.); 5.5 G CARBO
FAT;
(2.7 G FIBER); 914 MG SODIUM; 10S MG CHOL.
207 CAL., 84% (173 CAL.) FROM FAT;
20 G FAT (3.2 G SAT.); 6.9 G CARBO
(2.2 G FIBER); IS6 MG SODIUM; 4.2 MG CHOL.
Chickpea puree
MAKES 2 CUPS
Pistou
I 40
MINUTES
MAKES 1/4 CUP 115 MINUTES
Spicy and smooth, this puree can stand in
for hummus any old time.
This French sauce is similar to Italian
peste, but since it has no cheese or nuts,
About
the bright, spicy flavor of the herbs really
bursts through. Although using a mortar is
traditional, you can also make it in a food
processor (whirl all ingredients until almost
112
l/4
cup plus 2 tbsp. extra-virgin
olive oil
cup diced onion
4 garlic cloves, smashed
1dried arbol chile, crumbled
1tsp. minced fresh thyme
1bay leaf
smooth). Using a mortar and pestle, pound
clove chopped garlic with 1/4 tsp.
112
tsp. paprika
1/2 small
l/4
tsp. each ground cinnamon and cayenne
kosher salt. Pack a vz-cup measuring cup
2 cups canned chickpeas (garbanzos),
tightly with fresh basil leaves, then add half
of it to mortar and pound to a coarse
paste. Add remaining basil with 1 tbsp.
and drained
Kosher salt and pepper
1tbsp. tahini
112
rinsed
GOIN SAYS ...
ICrush in a mortar and pestle "It's one
of my key kitchen tools. I like the rustic
type-the marble ones are too smooth.
Obviously you can use a food processor,
but for coarse sauces like salsa verde
or pistou, nothing breaks up green
herbs or releases intensity of flavor
like a mortar and pestle."
tsp. ground cumin
Sunset
October
2012
81
Eggplant jam
MAKES
ABOUT
2213 CUPS
11
HOUR
To make the jam especially silky, Goin
peels and seeds the tomatoes. You could
use skin-on seeded tomatoes in a pinch,
or even good-quality canned.
turn heat to high, and cook another 6 to
8 minutes, stirring often, until well integrated and jammy in texture. Serve at
room temperature.
PER 113-cup
SERVING
119 CAl., 77% (92 CAL.) FROM
].2 G PROTEIN;
11 G FAT (1.6 G SAT.); 6.7 G CARBO
112 tsp. paprika
Van illa /Jots de creme
with dark chocolate and
roasted almonds
2 pinches cayenne
SERVES
1 garlic clove
LEAST 4 HOURS
1 Lb.gLobe eggplant
About 13/4 tsp. kosher salt, divided
7 tbsp. extra~virgin oLive oil, divided
2 tbsp, chopped ciLantro
1 Lb. ripe red tomatoes
Small sprig rosemary
1 dried arboL chile, crumbLed
112 cup diced onion
1. Cut
eggplant into l/2-in.-thick slices,
score with a paring knife in a tic-tac-toe
pattern on both sides, and season with
about 112tsp. salt. Let sit 10 minutes, then
blot dry with paper towels.
2. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water
to a boil. Heat a large frying pan over high
heat, 2 minutes. Cooking in 2 batches,
swirl in oil (3 tbsp. per batch) and wait
1 minute. Add eggplant slices in a single
layer. Once they start to color, turn slices
over and cook until tender and golden,
another 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer to a
paper towel-lined baking sheet.
3. Chop eggplant coarsely and toss, in a
large bowl with paprika, cayenne, and 1
tsp. salt. Mince garlic clove, sprinkle with
a pinch of salt, and mash to a paste with
the flat side of your chef's knife. Add paste
to eggplant along with cilantro.
4. Blanch tomatoes in boiling water, 30
seconds. Cool in a bowl of ice water, then
slip off skins. Core tomatoes and cut each
in half horizontally. Squeeze out seeds and
pulp into a strainer set in a bowl. Chop
tomatoes coarsely; add juice to bowl.
S. Heat a large (not nonstick) frying pan
over medium heat, 2 minutes. Swirl in
remaining 1 tbsp. oil, add rosemary and
chile, and heat another minute. Add onion
and saute until onion is translucent, 3 to
4 minutes. Add chopped tomatoes and
juices. Season with remaining 1/4tsp. salt
and cook until most of liquid has evaporated, 6 to 8 minutes. Add eggplant to pan,
82
Sunset
October
2012
FAT;
(2.8 G FIBER); 337 MG SODIUM; 0 MG OHOL.
6
I ABOUT
2 HOURS,
PLUS AT
TO CHILL
Although any good dark' chocolate will
work in this recipe, Goin especially likes
Caro chocolate, from Spain. "The flavor is
intense-deep
and earthy, with notes of
cinnamon, clove, and vanilla, which match
well with the vanilla in the custard and the
almonds on top."
1112 cups whoLe milk
1113 cups heavy cream, divided
2 vanilla beans
sugar
1112 oz. 6S% to 70% dark chocolate,
1/4 oz. cocoa butter*
1/4 cup saLted roasted
custard jiggles only slightly in center.Using
a sturdy flat spatula, transfer custards to a
rack to cool completely. Cover with plastic
wrap; chill at least 4 hours and up to 3 days.
S. Set a bowl over a saucepan filled with
1in. water (not touching water) and bring
to a boil. Add chocolate and cocoa butter
(if using oil, melt chocolate first and then
stir in oil). Working with 1pot de creme at
a time, and keeping chocolate warm in
double boiler, spoon 1 to 2 tsp. chocolate
onto custard (depending on size of cup)
and tip cup to form a thin, even layer of
chocolate. Don't add extra chocolate, even
if there's some left over; the layer will be
too thick. Chill until ready to serve.
6. Whip remaining 113 cup cream. Top each
pot de creme with a dollop of whipped
cream and a sprinkle of almonds.
*Jind cocoa butter, grapeseed oil, and stubby,
rich Marcona almonds at Whole Joods Market
and other well-stocked grocery stores.
6 extra-Large egg yoLks
112 cup granuLated
halfway up outsides of cups. Cover pan
with foil and bake about 30 minutes, until
chopped
or 1 tsp. grapeseed
PER SERVING 4] 7 CAl.) 70% (292 CAL.) FROM FAT;
7.6 G PROTEIN; 32 G FAT (17 G SAT.); 26 G CARBO
(0.7 G FIBER); 87 MG SODIUM; 313 MG CHOL .•
oiL*
Marcona aLmonds*,
coarseLy chopped
1. Combine
milk and 1 cup cream in a
medium pot. Split vanilla beans in half
lengthwise, scrape out seeds and pulp
with a paring knife, and add to pot along
with empty pods. Bring to a boil over high
heat. Remove from heat, cover, and let
infuse 30 minutes.
2. Beat egg yolks and sugar with the whisk
attachment at high speed until mixture
is thick, pale yellow, and falls in ribbons,
about 3 minutes. Bring milk and cream
back to a boil, then pour into a spouted
measuring cup. On low speed, slowly drizzle hot cream into egg mixture, 1/4cup at a
time. When halfthe cream has been incorporated, you can add the rest more quickly.
Strain the mixture and let sit 20 minutes.
0
3. Preheat oven to 325 To make you r
custard especially silky, skim all traces of
white foam from cream (it will be quite
a lot, about 1 cu p).
4. Pour mixture into six small (lh cup) coffee
cups or ramekins. Place in a roasting pan,
then pour hot water into pan to come
•
GOIN SAYS ...
/Prevent pan sticking "I preheat an
All-Clad pan for about 2 minutes. Then
I add the oil and swirl it around so it
won't smoke and immediately put in
what I want to saute. This gives you
a great nonstick cooking surface."