Spring 2016 - The Amwell Society

Spring'2016
Notable people, blue and green blue
plaques
London’s'blue'plaques'scheme,'run'by'English'Heritage,'
celebrates'the'links'between'notable'figures'of'the'past'and'
the'buildings'in'which'they'lived'and'worked.'Founded'in'
1866,'the'custom'has'inspired'many'similar'schemes'in'the'
UK'and'around'the'world.''
There'are'plaques'displayed'on'a'small'number'of'houses'
and'buildings'in'the'Amwell'area.''Not'all'are'blue.''The'blue'
ones'were'installed'by'English'Heritage'and'its'forerunner'
organisations.''The'green'ones'were'installed'by'the'London'
Borough'of'Islington'[LBI].''There'are'two'plaques'which'
were'put'up'by'the'Amwell'
Society.'''
Blue$plaque$at$20$Wharton$
Street.'''Amelia'Edwards'[7'
June'1831'–'15'April'1892]'
was'an'English'novelist,'
journalist,'traveller'and'
Egyptologist.'Her'most'
successful'works'included'the'
ghost'story'The$Phantom$
Coach'(1864),'the'novels'Barbara's$History'(1864)'and'Lord$
Brackenbury'(1880).''She'also'wrote'and'Egyptian'
travelogue'A$Thousand$Miles$up$the$Nile'(1877).''In'1882,'
she'coYfounded'the'Egypt'Exploration'Fund'and'became'its'
joint'Honorary'Secretary.'In'1889'–'1890,'she'toured'the'
USA'lecturing'on'Egyptian'exploration.'
Green$plaque$at$the$
Farringdon$Travelodge.$
Some$years'ago'the'Amwell'
Society,'with'the'Arnold'
Bennett'Society'and'financial'
support'of'the'then'hotel'
owners,'put'up'a'plaque'to'
mark'the'imaginary'location'
of'Henry'Earlforward’s'
bookshop'in'Bennett’s'awardY
winning'novel'of'1923,'Riceyman$Steps.$The'steps'in'
question'are'those'that'lead'from'Gwynne'Place'to'Granville'
Square.''The'plaque'was'unveiled'by'Roy'Hattersley.''
Riceyman$Steps'is'available'on'www.abebooks.co.uk'
On$the$northern$corner$of$
Bevin$Court$is'a'green'LBI'
plaque'which'celebrates'the'
work'of'artist,'Cyril'Mann'who'
lived'in'the'block'from'1956'Y'
1964.'
In'an'art'career'that'spanned'
half'a'century,'the'effects'of'
light'and'shadow'remained'a'
lifelong'fascination.'In'Mann’s'earliest'work,'done'
in'Paris'and'London,'the'artist'painted'facing'the'
sun.'These'works'of'urban'scenes'tend'to'be'
monochromatic'and'done'from'preliminary'
sketches.'
For'three'years,'from'the'early'to'midY1950s,'
Mann'painted'in'artificial'light,'focusing'on'the'
threeYdimensional'shape'of'shadows'cast'by'
household'objects.'This'development,'known'as'
the'‘solidYshadow'period’,'was'important'to'
Mann's'artistic'development,'as'he'used'strong,'
intense'colouring'with'a'formalised'line.'
In'his'final'phase,'from'the'1960s'onwards'Mann'
painted'the'dynamic'effects'of'light'and'shadow.'
He'uses'as'his'inspiration'nudes'of'his'young'wife,'
as'well'as'sunlit'interiors,'flowers,'self'portraits'
and'anything'else'at'hand,'such'as'an'oil'can,'a'
stapler,'and'toys'from'his'second'daughter,'
Amanda,'born'in'1968.'There'is'a'sense'of'release'
as'these'now'often'large'oils'were'painted'
directly'and'at'great'speed.''More'information'
about'Mann'and'his'work'go'to'en.wikipedia.org/
wiki/Cyril_Mann'
More'plaques'will'be'featured'in'the'next'
newsletter.''If'you'have'suggestions'for'plaques'in'
the'Amwell'area,'please'let'us'know.'One'of'the'
English'Heritage'rules'is'that'if'a'person'is'
remembered'at'another'address'in'London,'a'
second'plaque'cannot'be'put'up.''That'is'the'case'
with'illustrator'and'novelist,'George'du'Maurier'
who'lived'at'44'Wharton'Street'in'the'1840s'and'
later'lived'in'Great'Russell'Street'where'a'plaque'
can'be'seen.
The$Amwell$Society$campaigns$to$protect$and$promote$the$area$and$its$architectural$heritage$and$to$encourage$a$sense$of$community.$
The$Society$serves$Pentonville$Road,$Penton$Rise,$King's$Cross$Road,$Farringdon$Road$Rosebery$Avenue$and$St.$John$Street$and$all$the$streets$
within$the$area.$$The$Society$is$open$to$all$residents.$$For$information$about$becoming$a$member,$telephone$020$7833$1044$or$eJmail$
[email protected]$Chairman$–$Paul$Thornton.$$$Secretary$–$Francois$Smit.$Treasurer$J$Bibra$Ronalds.$$Newsletter$editor$–$David$Sulkin.$$
The$Amwell$Society$is$a$constituted$group$with$annual$accounts.$$The$Society$is$a$member$of$the$London$Forum
The$Amwell$Society$J$Campaigning$on$behalf$of$the$locality$for$44$years$
www.amwell.org.uk
Amwell$Medical$Practice$
Andrew$Whitehead$
There'
Our'local'medical'centre'is'always'glad'of'the'donation'of'
back'numbers'of'magazines'to'place'in'the'waiting'room.''
So,'if'you'subscribe'to'a'publication'or'even'pick'one'up'on'
the'offYchance'before'a'railway'journey,'don’t'recycle,'but'
drop'them'off'for'patients'to'read.''We'all'have'different'
interests'and'so'a'variety'of'publications'at'the'surgery'is'
especially'welcome.''The'Practice'is'located'at'4'Naoroji'
Street,'WCIX'0GB.''If'you'want'to'check'opening'times'for'
dropping'off'magazines,'the'number'is'020'7837'2020.'''
For'those'interested'in'Clerkenwell,'Andrew'
Whitehead’s'website'is'attractive'and'selective'in'
content.''On'his'Clerkenwell'page,'Whitehead'
highlights'important'books'about'the'area'including'
the'Survey'of'London'volume'on'South'and'East'
Clerkenwell.''He'also'mentions'a'number'of'outYofY
print'novels'by'George'Gissing'[The$Nether$World],'
Ernest'Raymond'[The$City$of$Dream]$and'Alexander'
Baron$[The$Lowlife.$Rosie$Hogarth].$
Talking$about$Riceyman$Steps$
Rebel$Clerkenwell.$A$history$of$
dissent$and$radicalism$
Here'Is'a'sketch'of'Riceyman'Steps'which'lead'from'
Gwynne'Place'to'Granville'Square.''The'steps'are'worth'
close'inspection.''Each'riser'is'made'of'kerbstone'granite.'
Solid'and'permanent.'In'the'centre'of'the'sketch'you'can'
see'St'Philip’s'Church,'which'was'demolished'in'1938.''The'
steps'were'also'known'locally'as'Plum'Pudding'Steps.''The'
foreground'of'this'picture'is'now'occupied'by'the'1960s'
Farringdon'Travellodge.''It’s'interesting'to'note'the'
number'of'people'in'the'street'[Gwynne'Place]'and'also'
what'seems'to'be'a'builder’s'yard'on'the'rightYhand'side.'
Members'can'find'downloadable'pdf'highlighting'the'
history'of'dissent'and'radicalism'in'Clerkenwell.'Go'to''
www.islington.gov.uk/publicrecords/library/LeisureY
andYculture/Information/Factsheets/2012Y2013/
(2013Y03Y07)YRebelYClerkenwell.pdf'
Clerkenwell'was'the'natural'location,'just'north'of'the'
City'and'outside'the'boundary'where'differences'of'
opinion'could'be'aired'in'the'openYair'and'in'the'
pubs.''This'custom'goes'back'to'the'violent'and'
destructive'Peasants’'Revolt'of'1381.'
In'1861'Home'Office'papers'recorded'the'following'
statement'about'the'Spa'Field’s'Riot.''On$Monday2$
December$a$large$crown$of$say$about$2,000$
assembled$opposite$Merlin’s$Cave$Public$House.$$
About$halfNpast$eleven$o’clock$a$still$greater$concourse$$
however$was$dispersed$in$various$parts$of$the$fields$
but$particularly$in$the$direction$of$Cold$Bath$Fields.$$
The'slope'up'to'Granville'Square'is'a'visible'remnant'of'the'
ancient'topography'of'this'area'which'was'known,'until'
the'middle'of'the'19th'century,'as'Bagnigge'Wells.''One'of'
the'blocks'of'flats'on'the'Margery'Street'Estate'is'named'
Bagnigge'House.''Readers'maybe'intrigued'to'read'a'page'
on'the'SubYurban'website'about'the'River'Fleet'that'
flowed'along'the'floor'of'this'shallow'valley.''Go'to'
www.subYurban.com/lostYbagnigge.''The'site'is'about'the'
drainage'of'the'metropolis'which'is'on'the'western'edge'
of'the'Amwell'area.''There'are'excellent'maps'and'
illustrations'highlighting'the'changes'to'the'Fleet'River'
from'a'meandering'and'flooding'stream'to'its'covering,'
culverting'and'development'into'an'important'drain.''
Indeed,'before'the'engineering'work'of'the'18th'and'19th'
centuries,'the'Fleet'River'was'known'as'the'‘Stinking'
Ditch’.''This'site'is'well'worth'a'visit.'''
The'original'Merlin’s'Cave'stood'near'what'is'now'
Margery'Street,'New'Merlin’s'Cave'was'a'pub'which,'
until'the'early'1990s'a'worldYfamous'jazz'venue;'
another'kind'of'‘alternative’.''Cold'Bath'Fields'is'the'
site'of'the'large'Mount'Pleasant'Post'Office.'''
In'fact'around'20,000'people'gathered'in'all.'After'
rousing'speeches'most'protesters'headed'for'the'
Bank'of'England,'another'group,'under'the'chant'of'
‘To'the'Bastille!’'made'their'way'to'Newgate'Prison.'
The'rebels'attacked'the'Royal'Exchange,'Somerset'
House'and'the'Minories.'An'armed'band,'led'by'
Arthur'Thistlewood,'a'former'soldier'and'farmer,'
marched'to'the'Tower'of'London.'Thistlewood'
climbed'the'wall'and'addressed'the'soldiers'within'
inviting'them'to'surrender'the'Tower.''
The'geographical'focus'of'the'democratic'
Chartists’'struggle'[1841]'was'also'in'
2
$$$$$$$$$$$$$The$Amwell$Society$J$Campaigning$on$behalf$of$the$locality$for$44$years$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
A$message$from$our$
chairman$
Transport$Matters$
It’s'been'a'busy'couple'of'months'
on'the'transport'front.''Firstly,'we'
had'the'kerfuffle'over'the'
possible'closure'of'Amwell'Street'
to'through'traffic,'then'two'
Transport'for'London'[TfL]'
consultations'on'the'NorthYSouth'
Cycling'Superhighway'and'the'Kings'
Cross'Gyratory,'and'finally'the'announcement'that'
Crossrail'2'is'to'go'ahead.'
Amwell$Street$
There'was'an'unprecedented'response'to'our'special'
Cycling'newsletter'which'came'out'at'the'beginning'of'the'
year.''Some'of'you'will'have'seen'my'letter'in'the'Tribune,'
which'summarised'the'responses.''Although'many'of'our'
respondents'are'themselves'cyclists,'not'one'favoured'
banning'through'traffic'from'Amwell'Street.''The'reasons'
were'many'and'varied'–'impact'on'the'shops,'danger'of'
turning'Amwell'Street'into'a'speedway'track'for'cyclists,'
and'difficulty'of'getting'to/from'one’s'home'by'car'were'
most'commonly'mentioned.!!!
Islington'Council'is'carrying'out'a'feasibility'study'into'
improving'the'cycle'route'from'Finsbury'Park'to'
Farringdon'via'Amwell'Street.''They'did'not'take'up'our'
plea'to'include'consultation'with'residents'and'
shopkeepers'as'part'of'the'study.''However'Clerkenwell'
Ward'Councillor,'James'Court,'has'told'us'that'he'would'
not'support'any'proposals'that'included'the'closure'of'
Amwell'Street.''We'also'understand'that'the'LBI'cabinet'
member'responsible'for'streets'will'not'advocate'road'
closures'unless'supported'by'the'local'community.'
TfL$consultations$
Most'residents'will'have'had'two'leaflets'detailing'plans'
for'the'Cycling'Superhighway'from'Farringdon'to'King’s'
Cross'and'for'unwinding'the'Kings'Cross'Gyratory'system.''
The'Society'responded'to'both'of'these.''The'main'impact'
of'the'former'for'members'is'the'proposed'closure'of'
Judd'Street'to'through'traffic.''Coming'on'top'of'the'
closure'of'Tavistock'Place'to'westbound'vehicles,'this'will'
create'further'difficulties'for'those'westbound'drivers'
seeking'to'avoid'the'Kings'Cross'bottleneck.'
We'broadly'welcome'the'plan'to'scrap'the'King’s'Cross'
Gyratory'system;'I'am'told'that'the'Amwell'Society'
opposed'its'introduction'40'years'ago!''However,'there'is'
one'major'caveat:'the'scheme'foresees'the'closure'of'
Vernon'Rise'to'through'traffic.''We'have'been'told'that'
the'stretch'of'Great'Percy'Street'from'Percy'Circus'to'
King’s'Cross'Road'will'become'twoYway,'but'this'is'not'
shown'on'the'plan.''The'Society'is'seeking'clarification.'
Crossrail$2$
The'recently'announced'goYahead'for'Crossrail'2'will'
have'limited'impact'for'a'few'years.''However,'Angel'
will'eventually'become'a'major'construction'site,'
possibly'for'as'long'as'8'years.''We'acknowledge'the'
need'for'improved'transport'links'from'southYwest'to'
northYeast,'but'would'have'preferred'to'see'a'metro'
style'solution'which'serves'local'people'rather'than'
just'commuters'from'further'afield.''We'shall'
campaign'vigorously'for'‘considerate'construction’.'
A$word$about$Finsbury$Health$Centre$
For'several'years'the'Society'has'supported'the'longY
term'energy'of'committed'local'people'to'see'the'
Grade'I'Listed,'Modernist'Finsbury'Health'Centre'in'
Pine'Street,'designed'by'the'visionary'Berthold'
Lubetkin,'fully'renovated,'restored'and'protected.'''
The'objective'still'holds'good;'to'keep'the'Centre'
serving'local'people'as'a'beacon'of'good'health'within'
the'NHS,'working'every'day,'as'it'was'intended'by'the'
Borough'of'Finsbury'in'the'midY1930s.''Sadly,'repairs'
and'restoration'are'urgent'and'yet'the'future'of'the'
Centre'is'captured'in'a'gridlock'of'indecision'within'
the'NHS'and'consequently'government.''The'FHC'
Preservation'Trust'has'attracted'the'interest'of'a'
significant'funder'of'projects'for'buildings'at'risk,'
financial'aid'from'which'would'ensure'the'future'of'
the'Centre,'but'a'roundabout'of'staff'and'policy'
changes'within'the'NHS'means'that'noYone'dares'take'
a'radical'decision'to'realise'the'building'to'the'FHCPT'
and'allow'this'internationally'renowned'and'
celebrated'building'to'be'restored'and'repaired.''In'
the'meantime'FHCPT'has'made'an'application'to'
collect'the'memories'of'staff'and'patients.'If'you'are'
interested'in'helping'with'this'project'or'have'
memories'you’d'like'to'share,'please'get'in'touch'with'
Patricia'Potts,'[email protected]'The'photo'below'
shows'one'of'the'murals'designed'by'Lubetkin'for'the'
reception'area'of'the'clinic.'‘Fresh'Air'Night'&'Day'Y'
Live'out'doors'as'much'as'you'can’.''The'sign'in'the'
doorway'indicates'the'location'of'the'solarium.
PAGE 3
The$Amwell$Society$J$Campaigning$on$behalf$of$the$locality$for$44$years$
www.amwell.org.uk
Filming$in$the$Amwell$area$
Many'members'will'have'seen'film'crews'working'in'
local'streets'over'the'years.''With'so'many'listed'houses'
and'atmospheric'streets,'location'finders'are'keen'on'
our'area.''A'recent'film'made'in'Myddelton'Square'was'
Suffragette$with'Meryl'Streep.''She'was'playing'
Emmeline'Pankhurst'speaking'to'an'adoring'crowd'from'
a'balcony'on'the'east'side'of'the'Square.'''
In'the'winter'committee'members,'Joanna'Ward'and'
David'Sulkin'took'the'LBI'film'officer'and'a'
representative'of'Film'Fixers,'the'agency'that'arranges'
for'the'licensing'of'locations,'on'a'local'walk.''The'
objective'was'to'encourage'filmYmaking'in'our'area.''
When'a'film'is'licensed,'a'contribution'is'often'made'to'
a'local'group.''In'the'case'of'the'Society,'if'we'receive'
income'from'filmYmaking.'we'undertake'small'projects'
that'benefit'the'community.''Sometimes'we'use'the'
money'for'a'small'oneYoff'projects'or'to'subsidise'
regular'expenditure,'like'the'upkeep'of'St'Helena'
Garden'near'to'Lloyd'Square.'''
For'many'years'LBI'had'ignored'the'garden'which'
gradually'filled'with'rubbish'and'was'overgrown.'
In'2000'the'Amwell'Society'received'a'Millennium'
Awards'for'All'grant.''This'gave'us'the'chance'to'
clear'the'garden,'to'refresh'the'soil,'and'to'repair'
and'paint'the'gates'and'railings.'In'order'to'
qualify'for'the'grant,'we'undertook'a'survey'of'
how'many'people'an'hour'walked'through'the'
garden'either'going'towards'Rosebery'Avenue'or'
up'towards'Pentonville'Road.''The'pathway'is'
especially'busy'in'the'morning'and'much'more'
heavily'used'than'might'be'expected.''It'is'very'
busy'with'children'going'to'Clerkenwell'Parochial'
School.'
Now'the'Society'has'an'agreement'with'LBI'which'
allows'us'to'continue'to'look'after'the'spaces.''For'a'
long'time'the'priority'was'the'sunken'garden'but'more'
recently'we'have'worked'on'the'side'garden'which'is'
now'even'more'attractive'and'verdant'that'the'main'
part.''Darian'and'Delia'Mitchell'have'spent'many,'many'
hours'looking'after'the'garden'as'volunteers'and'we'are'
very'grateful'to'them'for'all'their'hard'work'and'
dedication.'''
In'2004'the'Society'installed'a'stone'plaque'in'the'
pavement'of'the'garden'to'celebrate'the'30th'
anniversary'of'the'Amwell'Society'and'to'mark'the'
contribution'of'the'founders'Carol'Goddard,'Irvine'Gray'
and'Norman'King.''We'have'found'that'the'stone'gets'
obscured'by'soil'and'moss.''We'hope'to'relocate'the'
plaque'soon'so'that'it'can'be'better'seen'by'passersY
by…another'small'project'paid'for'by'film'income.'''
A$little$ray$of$Sunflour$
Although'outside'the'Amwell'area'the'Sunflour'
Bakery'is'wellYworth'a'visit.'The'shop'is'run'by'
Paul'and'Gabriela.''Paul'is'an'a'knowledgeable'
baker'and'all'the'baked'goods'are'made'on'the'
premises.''You'can'buy'especially'delicious'soda'
bread'sold'in'quarters.''A'large'quarter'[bigger'
than'quarters'sold'in'supermarkets]'is'£2.00.''A'
large'sourdough'loaf'costs'also'£2.00.''Paul'
sometimes'makes'outstanding'barm'brack'as'well'
as'other'seasonal'cakes.''It’s'true'that'you'have'to'
walk'up'to'the'bakery'or'catch'the'17'or'91'bus'to'
Story'Street'which'is'a'stop'on'Caledonian'Road'
but'there'are'several'pluses'about'Sunflour.''The'
warm'welcome,'the'quality'of'the'bread'and'the'
reasonable'prices.''
The$Sunflour$Bakery.$$263$Caledonian$Road,$N1$
[email protected]$$
$$
‘The$earth$paints$a$portrait$of$the$sun$at$dawn$
with$sunflowers$in$bloom.$Unhappy$with$the$
portrait,$she$erases$it$and$paints$it$again$and$
again.’$$Rabindranath'Tagore.'
Amwell$Street$Summer$Fayre$&$
The$Society’s$Late$Summer$Party$
The'traders'in'Amwell'Street'are'preparing'the'
Summer$Fayre$on$Sunday$3$July$from$12.00$
onwards.''The'Society'will'host'a'stall.''Join'in!'
and…'
The$Society’s$late$summer$will$be$held$between$
6.00$pm$and$8.00$pm$on$Saturday$10$September$
in$St$Helena$Garden.''Bring'food'to'share.''Wine'
and'soft'drinks'will'be'available.''If'the'weather’s'
bad,'a'notice'will'be'put'on'the'railings'advising'
about'an'alternative'venue.''If'you'haven’t'been'to'
our'party'before,'it’s'an'excellent'way'to'get'to'
know'new'friends'and'neighbours.'
4