Instructables.com - DIY Multimedia LED

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DIY Multimedia LED Projector (video manual)
by newtonn2 on October 25, 2009
Table of Contents
DIY Multimedia LED Projector (video manual) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1
Intro: DIY Multimedia LED Projector (video manual) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
Step 1: The Principle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3
Step 2: Materials and Tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
4
Step 3: Placing the LED in the Heat Sink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
5
Step 4: Mounting the Condenser Lens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
6
Step 5: Dismanteling the LCD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
7
Step 6: LCD Mount . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
8
Step 7: PCB Fitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
8
Step 8: Schematic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
9
Step 9: LCD Stand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Step 10: Fit legs to the Light Source . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Step 11: The Mirrors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Step 12: The Projector Lens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Step 13: Cutting the Fresnel Lens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Step 14: Work out the Distances . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Step 15: The AV connectors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Step 16: The Box . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Step 17: Sound System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Step 18: Power Connector . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Step 19: Hot Glue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Step 20: USB Multimedia Reader . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Step 21: Finishing Touches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Step 22: You're Done! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Step 23: Cleaning the Projector . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
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Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Multimedia-LED-Projector/
Intro: DIY Multimedia LED Projector (video manual)
In this Instructable, I show you how to make a LCD projector with a LED as the light source. I tried to make videos of everything so it is easier to follow the steps.
Este Instructable esta en versión en Español
After making my first LED projector that you can see here , I had lots of questions and people interested in the projector. Some of them went ahead and did something
similar like mcastles.
I felt sorry that I could not give more details of the making of the projector. Also the MP4 player that I used is not longer available so many people could not find an MP4
with composite input like mine. I decided to make another one, so you could actually SEE how to do it.
This type of projector is very energy efficient. It only consumes about 41W. A normal projector with metal halide lamp will consume about 260W plus a DVD player which
can consume between 20w and 45W for a total of about 300w. That is a saving of a lot of money by the end of the year. Although the quality and brightness of a
conventional projector will be better, you'll have to pay the price, and the environment as well.
Another good feature of this projector is that the LED should last about 10000 hours of use wile a conventional projector lamp lasts about 2000 hours.
Lets see the result of making this projector.
Image Notes
1. DVD just to show size.
Image Notes
1. About 41W consumption.
Step 1: The Principle
The principle is very simple. There is a powerful light that is projected through an LCD into a lens so the image is projected.
Some things you want to take into consideration:
-The better the quality on the LCD, the better the projected image. (I'm using a LCD with 640X480 pixels)
-The LCD can't take more than 40C, so if you decide to use some other type of light source, pay good attention to the cooling system.
-Without a good fresnel lens will be really difficult to light the LCD evenly. (I'm using the always faithful fresnel lens from an old OHP )
-The fresnel from the OHP is really a twin fresnel, the one that faces the light is expanding the light to the full area of the lens, the other one is focusing all the light to one
point. If you keep the two of them together (like this projector) it will be a lot easier and less danger of damaging or scratching them. Any big scratch will be reflected in
the projected image. The down bit is that you won't be able to do keystoning adjustment. So the projector will have to be placed in a perpendicular position with the
screen.
-The use of mirrors allows you to make the box smaller as if there are no mirrors, you will have to place the LED farther from the fresnel lens, and also the LCD from the
main lens.
-You need to have everything inside some sort of enclosure, or the light will be coming out and it will light the room making the projector a lot less efficient.
Image Notes
1. In this image you can see that there are two fresnels, this will allow keystoning. In this projector the two fresnels are together.
Step 2: Materials and Tools
Here is a list of material I've used to make this projector. Also a list of the tools I've used.
MATERIAL :
-LCD Screen (640x480, view )
-30W High power led (1.8A 16V, view )
-Thermal paste grease (This is to conduct more heat between the LED and the heat sink, view )
-Two Heat sinks . (One for the LED, and the other one to cool the voltage regulator)
-OHP Mirror.
-OHP Fresnel lens.
-Old LCD Projector Lens (If you're using a LCD bigger than 2" you won't be able to use a slide projector lens. I found the LCD projector on the street without light. Some
copy lenses are good for this project)
-Some sort of case (I made mine with wood and plywood, but be creative, If you can fit everything inside some sort of metal box, that'll be even smaller.)
-40mm fan ( I took mine from a Mac case I found on the street.)
-20V Laptop charger (4.5A)
-12v PC Speakers
-4 Small washers.
- Paint (only if you decide to paint the enclosure)
ELECTRONICS :
-LM350 (3A Voltage regulator. Used to power the LED, view , datasheet )
-12V Fixed voltage regulato r (2A, view , datasheet )
-5V Fixed voltage regulator (2A, This one is not totally necessary, I used it to make the fan less noisy, view , datasheet )
- 560 Ohm Resistor
-(2) 1N4001 Diodes
- 0.1 uf Capacitor
- (2) 10 uf Capacitor
- 100nF Capacitor
- 5k variable resistor
TOOLS :
-Drill
-Dremel with cutting disk and round file tool.
-Hole saw.
-Solder.
-Small round file.
-Pliers.
-Double size tape.
-Masking tape.
-Epoxy
ABOUT THE COST...
I spent about 60 pounds, but I had many parts already.
The LCD was 22 Pounds
The LED was 25 Pounds
The old OHP was 5 Pounds (mirror and fresnel)
The Electronic components cost me around 3 Pounds
I had all the other parts. The condenser lens was from a car headlight. The heatsink from a old pc processor. The lens came from an old LCD projector.
Step 3: Placing the LED in the Heat Sink
The High Power LED needs to be placed on a Heat sink. The heat sink I'm using is not as big as I would like, that's why I added a fan to cool off the heat sink.
1.- Mark the holes where you'll fix the LED.
2.- Make the holes with the drill.
3.- Put some thermal paste grease .
4.- Fix the LED to the Heat sink.
5.- Find a way to fix the condenser lens later. ( I used some slide lens adapter that I had hanging around. You could use any plastic tube. Make the necessary holes for
the cables)
6.- Solder the cables to the LED (Protect the LED before soldering. Pay good attention to the polarity, It should say it)
Here is the video of how I've done it.
Step 4: Mounting the Condenser Lens
The condenser lens will help to project the light further and also will help to avoid loss of light.
1.- The condenser lens I used is from a car, so it has some sort of border around. I used some rigid copper wire to hold it in place.
2.- Use some electrical tape to hold the condenser lens to whatever you're going to use to separate it from the LED.
3.- Use the pliers and some more copper wire to fix the lens to the heat sink.
4.- Give it a try with your bench power supply (Don't have one yet? See here to make your own)
Here is the video of how I've done it.
Step 5: Dismanteling the LCD
Before taking apart the LCD:
-Try the screen and see if it works.
-Don't take the protective film off the LCD. That will be the VERY last step (as it will protect the LCD from scratches).
-Put some tape on top of the protective film and write down some letters (like DVD). This will help you always see what is the top and bottom of the LCD, even without
having to turn it on.
A picture is worth a thousand words... so I guess a video is worth even more..... so.... Here is the video of how to take apart and desolder the back light.
I tried to do everything in front of the camera, but some times I forgot, sorry! :)
And here the video of how to desolder the backlight.
Image Notes
1. Cover the wires with some electrical tape.
Step 6: LCD Mount
A good and easy way to mount the LCD is to use the same case where it goes.
1.- File a little bit the with the dremel the 4 holding points where the circuit was screwed to the casing. (This is done so you can fix the LCD with some washers as you
can see in the video)
2. - Place the LCD with the wires at the top.
3.- Use the same screws that used to hold the circuit with a few washers to hold the LCD in place.
Step 7: PCB Fitting
This is very important, as placing the LCD circuit near the LCD without blocking the LCD itself is vital for a good result.
1.- Place the circuit on top of the plastic that is holding the LCD and mark the two holes where the circuit will be fitted.
2.- File the holes a little bit until you can fix the screws you want to use. If you can take out of a old computer the type of screw I'm using (they are called standoffs
screws), it would be better as these screws still separate the circuit from the case a little bit.
3.- Drill the case and, after protecting the LCD, use some epoxy to glue the screws.
4.- Fix the cables to something so you wont break it. I used a cable tie.
Image Notes
1. Hot glue or use some epoxy to glue the screw underneath
Step 8: Schematic
Here is the schematic. Place the voltage regulator in a good heat sink.
With the LM350 I can change the voltage with the 5k variable resistor and at the same time I have the ammeter connected to make sure the amps will not raise 1.7A.
(The LED is rated 1.8A but just to be on the safe side)
PLEASE NOTE : I found a problem on the schematics, there shouldn't be connection between the anode of the 1n4001 and the negative of the 10uf.
Image Notes
1. Schematic with only one power supply for the LED, LCD, fan and speakers.
Image Notes
1. Schematic with only one power supply for the LED, LCD and fan.
Image Notes
1. Schematic with only one power supply for the LED and fan.
Image Notes
1. Schematic with only one power supply for the LED only.
Image Notes
1. Later I got rid of this condenser because it was giving problems.
Step 9: LCD Stand
From now on we are going to make everything able to stand in an upright position. This is going to allow us to play with the distances of everything to get the picture right.
The first thing we'll be getting in an upright position is the LCD as it's the main point to get the other things lined up.
1.- I found some heat sink supports from an old amplifier. But you can use anything in a right angle.
2.- Mark where they'll go (Pay attention that they will not block any light.)
3.- Drill the case and screw to it.
It is very important now that you are able to get the LCD in a straight position by measuring from the middle of the LCD to the holding surface. This measurement will
have to be the same for the light source (LED with condenser lens) and the main projection lens.
Image Notes
1. Is very important that the LCD is in a upright position.
Step 10: Fit legs to the Light Source
Now that we know the height of the centre of the LCD, we need to make everything line up with that. So the first thing is the light source.
1.- I found some plastic legs that will do the job, but you could even use some wood cut to size.
2.- Drill the heat sink where you think it will be a good place to fitted.
Step 11: The Mirrors
The mirrors came from the mirror of an OHP.
1. - Protect the mirror with some masking tape.
2. - Mark the centre of the mirror and take it to your local glaziers to get it cut. (normally they wont charge for such a small job)
3. - I found a couple of angle metal things, and with some double sided tape I held the mirror to it. (This will be provisional, as once you know the right position of the
mirrors you can reinforce it with some hot glue.)
Step 12: The Projector Lens
I was really lucky, because the projector lens I'm using has some sort of metal support, and the height was almost exactly with the centre of the LCD. All I had to do was
drill a couple of holes to fit it to the wood.
Step 13: Cutting the Fresnel Lens
When cutting the fresnel lens you could use many tools. I decided to use the angle grinder to be quicker, but this is not a toy, is very dangerous if you don't know how to
use it. You should wear a mask (the fumes from the fresnel when cutting aren't very healthy), safety glasses and gloves. But you could cut the fresnel with a dremel or
some other thing.
1.- Mark the centre of the fresnel. (see the video to know how to)
2.- Use some masking tape to protect the fresnel as any big marks on the fresnel will be visible on the projected image.
3.- Now that we know the centre of the LCD, we want to do the same on the fresnel. So measure the space from the base of the projector and the circuit, paying good
attention to the center (see the video to know what I mean. Do your best, if its not right right on the center is still ok)
4.- After cutting the fresnel, tape the borders to stop the fresnel coming apart, or dust getting in between them.
Step 14: Work out the Distances
We now have everything ready to work out the distances This really depends on your personal setting of the condenser lens, LCD, mirrors, lenses... etc..
- The best thing to do is play with the distances and mark everything once you're happy with the result.
- Try the distances where you will think the projector is going to be. Some lenses wont focus from too far and too close.
This is my setting. I used two mirrors to keep the enclosure as small as possible.
Image Notes
1. First try. 1 meter from the wall.
Step 15: The AV connectors
I recycled the AV connectors. If you are doing the same:
1.- Cut the circuit board with some scissors, or with the dremel.
2. - Make sure the lines on the circuit board are cut.
3.- Solder the cables
4.- Hold the cables with a cable tie.
Image Notes
1. Use a cable tie to hold the cables in place.
Step 16: The Box
My box is made of wood and plywood. I made it to fix the top to the base, so they will be no screws showing in the sides.
1.- Before making the enclosure, take measures of the height of everything, and mark them so you don't place something where it will be in the way.
2.- Once you have the enclosure ready, cut and drill all the holes needed for the sound system, buttons, speakers, connectors, fan, etc.... Also make a few holes under
the heat sink of the LED to allow air flow.
3.- Use some two part filler If you're using plywood and want to make it smooth.
4.- Paint the enclosure. The way I painted mine was with a couple of coats of oil based primer and then with another couple of coats of oil base paint. (it took forever,
with this cold I had to wait around 12h between coats)
5.- Is a good idea to fit a couple of small legs at the bottom, and some sort of leg at the front that can make the front of the projector go up and down. I used a leg with
that feature, but if you don't have anything like that you could always use a screw.
6.- Paint the base in matt black so they will be no reflections. I use some black shoe polish, and it did work well.
Image Notes
1. Provisional box
Image Notes
1. The shoe polishing paste it was good to paint the base in black .
Step 17: Sound System
My sound system came from the computer speaker. If they work at 12v even better as you need to drop down the voltage to 12v for the LCD.
1.- Take it apart.
2.- I modified the circuit so I could use the sound system switch as main switch. see pics
3.- Later I change the LED of the sound circuit for a blue LED, which looks cooler!
Image Notes
1. Power Switch
2. Power bridge . On substitution for the old switch.
3. Power input. 12v
4. Speaker output
Step 18: Power Connector
I fitted the power connector once I knew where it could go.
1.- Mark where the power connector can go from the inside.
2.- Use a needle or a small nail to make a small hole from the inside out.
3.- Drill the hole for the connector.
Image Notes
1. This is the 20v charger I'm using.
Step 19: Hot Glue
Now you can hot glue everything to the case. Wait until the glue is fully dry before closing the case.
Image Notes
1. Hot glue
Image Notes
1. I did hot glued the 5v fixed regulator to the fan. This one doesn't need heat sink.
It will not get very hot.
Image Notes
1. Fan (Blowing air to the ouside)
2. Right speaker
3. Power connector for the LCD
4. Composite connector
5. AV connectors
6. Left speaker
7. Sound circuit.
Step 20: USB Multimedia Reader
Here are a few pictures of the multimedia player. I had a portable DVD player that din't want to read DVD's any more so I took it apart and place it inside the projector.
Image Notes
1. USB input is what we'll be using.
2. I got rid of this.
3. I got rid of the outside buttons as well
Image Notes
1. I took the USB connector form is old USB hub ( it was USB 1.0 anyway)
2. This will cover the IR sensor as well as the state LED
3. Put some masking tape if you already paint the enclosure to avoid cracks
wile cutting.
Image Notes
1. Sound cables.
2. USB cables
3. Power cables
4. Composite cables. The LCD I'm using has to composite inputs, so one is
connected to this to use the internal player, and the other one is connected to the
AV connector, to connect anything from the outside to the projector.
Image Notes
1. I did cat the IR because it was safer to solder.
2. Same with the LED
3. I mount the IR and the LED in a board which is situated right under the usb
connector.
Image Notes
1. Protect with electrical tape before soldering.
Image Notes
1. 8GB pendrive full of movies!
Step 21: Finishing Touches
Everything seems to be working ok, you're happy with the projector, but maybe there is some light coming out of the box. Use some foam like in the video to cover
around the lens and other areas where some light is coming out.
I also place a few labels with some rub-on letters like you can see in the pictures.
Image Notes
1. Use some foam where the light may be coming out.
Image Notes
1. I place this separator, so there will be no light getting to the mirror besides the
light that gets through the LCD.
Image Notes
1. I use a permanent marker to paint it in black to avoid reflections.
Image Notes
1. This should really say composite, but it was too long.
Step 22: You're Done!
Well done! You were able to make your own projector with an LED, which will last almost forever.
Now relax on the sofa while you watch your favourite movie on a 2m diagonal screen. (by the way, for the screen I'm using an Ikea roller blind , works GREAT!)
I hope you like this Instructable, I did work hard to make it as good as I can, but maybe I missed a step or something, so just ask if you have any questions.
Step 23: Cleaning the Projector
After some time using the projector you may see that there is small marks or dust on the projected image. That is normal, the LCD could get some dust or something that
needs to be cleaned from time to time (not very often though)
First take the lid off your projector. Here is a video of how to do it if you have a enclosure like mine.
To clean the projector you could use a blower cleaner. I use this blower that is to clean my camera. It only takes a minute.
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Comments
50 comments Add Comment
An_War says:
view all 560 comments
Mar 11, 2011. 10:33 PM REPLY
Hi!!!!!!!!!!
can this type of lenses be used in 3.5 inch lcd projectors
please visit this links below http://cgi.ebay.in/PENTAX-ZOOM-LENS-28-80MM-MACRO-F3-5-4-5-FIT-KMOUNT/110653874987?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_203&hash=item19c37c232b#ht_1445wt_1139
http://cgi.ebay.in/ASAHI-PENTAX-A-SMC-50mm-1-2-PK-K-f2-K100D-K10D-Kx-K5-k7/200582941610?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_203&hash=item2eb3accbaa#ht_647wt_1139
http://cgi.ebay.in/Nikon-18-55-DX-AF-S-VR-With-MOTOR-/160556795129?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_203&hash=item2561ee44f9#ht_2530wt_1139
http://cgi.ebay.in/Canon-FD-28mm-f3-5-Wide-Angle-lens-fr-SLR-Cameras-nice/320668811409?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_203&hash=item4aa959c091#ht_500wt_1156
http://cgi.ebay.in/HANIMEX-28MMF3-LENS-PENTAX-YASHICA-M42-SCREWMOUNT/110651325434?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_203&hash=item19c3553bfa#ht_841wt_1139
please guide me. Thanks
An_War says:
Mar 11, 2011. 8:04 PM REPLY
Hi newtonn2!!!
which type of zoom lens i use?
and which type of zoom lens u used in your projector?
shanu98 says:
Feb 12, 2011. 10:07 AM REPLY
HI...
Overall I would say a nice project with a very effective outcome...
The only part which I find tracky here is "Old LCD Projector Lens"...
Would you be able to guide what could be an alternative in case old projector lens is not available. Or if placement some lenses could prepare a similar kind
of zooming projection lens....
Thanks in advance..
gtoal says:
Feb 10, 2011. 11:19 AM REPLY
With the death of analog photography, there must be a lot of old photo enlargers on the scrap market now. Every one has a condensor. Actually, you might
be able to reuse the lens as well - I wonder what the furthest focus distance possible is for a photographic enlarger... All you'd need to do is put the LCD
where the film normally goes (lots of room there as it is in a removable holder) and replace the light source with a LED.
aekara says:
Feb 10, 2011. 6:42 AM REPLY
hi newtonn
i am having a problem with the heat
today i tried the led with a 15v 1.66a power adapter and after 5 minutes the heatsink was very very hot. then i put a fan on the heatsink and there was no
difirend
do you have the same problem?
if yes what can i do?
THANK YOU
aekara says:
Feb 7, 2011. 8:06 AM REPLY
today i put the condensor lens and ..............
here are the results..
newtonn2 says:
Feb 7, 2011. 1:10 AM REPLY
Yes you can. If you use a 7" screen you'll get a bigger wide-screen. You can still get wide screen with the 3" because can play DVD, video, etc.. in that
screen setting, but you'll loss some quality and projected size.
utkarsh verma says:
Feb 7, 2011. 1:06 AM REPLY
Hello Newtonn, can I use a more wider screen for my projector? Because I want aspect ratio of 16:9.
aekara says:
i already finish!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
i only have to put the condensor lens and ist ready
here are some photos without the condensor lens.....
Feb 1, 2011. 7:47 AM REPLY
boleelob says:
Feb 2, 2011. 9:23 AM REPLY
Congratulations
Welcome to the club...
newtonn2 says:
Feb 1, 2011. 7:53 AM REPLY
Well done! You made it! Enjoy your projector!
aekara says:
Feb 2, 2011. 2:39 AM REPLY
i am going to post more photos when i put the condensor lens
anyway thank you sooooooooo much for helping me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
AuriuX says:
Jan 30, 2011. 10:38 AM REPLY
Hello,
Can you send me all schematic in big format?
I cannot see in this little pic.
i need this one in big format:
http://www.instructables.com/image/FL1TCGUG4NW67DV/Schematic.jpg
My email: [email protected]
Thank you!
aekara says:
Feb 2, 2011. 4:06 AM REPLY
http://www.instructables.com/files/orig/FL1/TCGU/G4NW67DV/FL1TCGUG4NW67DV.png
boleelob says:
Jan 29, 2011. 8:33 AM REPLY
Hi newtonn2
My projected image...
There is a small problem. The lens is less than monitor r60mm look for r90mm.
Usually gives better results than FRANSNEL ..
LED 20w 1200lm
johnnyz88 says:
Jan 28, 2011. 4:20 AM REPLY
Hi, I have an old Infocus X1 projector (DLP). I am thinking of replacing the lamp with 50W, 4000Lm power LED:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190474850870&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT#ht_2457wt_1139
Any thoughts? I hope it isn't too power consuming for its purpose (I'm worried the colour wheel will eat up much of the light)
Also, how will I go about building a driver for this LED? What components should I use. I want to avoid buying one because they seem quite expensive.
Any help is appreciated. Nice instructable!
boleelob says:
Hi...
This is my projector is under construction ... What do you think?
Jan 27, 2011. 8:54 AM REPLY
newtonn2 says:
Jan 27, 2011. 9:02 AM REPLY
It's looking very good! Does the condenser lens works ok on that position?
Please send pictures of the projected image.
torress1990 says:
Jan 24, 2011. 9:57 AM REPLY
hello, how i could calculate what lens do i need ? and maybe do you know from where i should get cheapy lens for trying projectro ? thanks
An_War says:
Jan 16, 2011. 7:53 AM REPLY
how large is your projected image?
and how to add s-video to car monitor?
please add your s-video soldering points.
aekara says:
Jan 18, 2011. 6:39 AM REPLY
composite to s-video instructable
http://www.instructables.com/id/S-Video-to-RCA-Connecter/
aekara says:
Jan 9, 2011. 10:56 AM REPLY
hi again
i just want to ask if you can give me a link for the heatsink that you use
i only have two heatsinks but i dont know if they will work. The one is from an old video card and the other from a old computer processor
here are some pictures of the heatsinks and the led ...
aekara says:
Jan 8, 2011. 1:02 PM REPLY
how to test the lcd monitor?
how many volts and amps ?
please help me becouse i bought the monitor for 30$ and i dont want to make any mistake and burn it
thanks
newtonn2 says:
Jan 8, 2011. 1:12 PM REPLY
is it like mine? sorry i forgot if you send me a link to the LCD
aekara says:
yes its exactly like yours
here is the link..http://cgi.ebay.com/3-5-LCD-Digital-Car-Rear-View-Monitor-Camera-DVD/120622408332?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c15a7e28c
Jan 9, 2011. 1:38 AM REPLY
aekara says:
Jan 8, 2011. 12:11 PM REPLY
what about this?
http://cgi.ebay.com/45mm-Lens-Reflector-Base-20-50W-LED-Lamp-Blub-/270584450944?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f00170f80
newtonn2 says:
Jan 8, 2011. 12:44 PM REPLY
I like it! it looks very good.
aekara says:
Jan 8, 2011. 1:05 PM REPLY
ok i am going to buy it
i am going to post some pictures when i finish the projector
aekara says:
Jan 8, 2011. 7:01 AM REPLY
hi newtoon :) i was thinking of buying this
http://cgi.ebay.com/XL-Full-Page-3-Power-Fresnel-Magnifier-Magnifying-Sheet-/300390430052?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item45f0aa3564
will it work or i need to buy a OHP fresnel lens?
please help me
thank you in advice
newtonn2 says:
Jan 8, 2011. 7:11 AM REPLY
I don't know. I never try it before. If you want to make sure.. buy the OHP lens. Or you can try the magnifier glass, it's not too expensive anyway.
aekara says:
Jan 8, 2011. 11:42 AM REPLY
thank you
i am going to buy a OHP fresnel lens becouse i want to make sure that it will work
karonth says:
Jan 15, 2010. 5:02 PM REPLY
Can you check the controller chip numbers for me please? From the video I can just read the manufacturer, Techwell.
I'd like to know if there's a way to add support for vga input to the lcd. What about the 10 pin connector?
Thank you in advance, really a great project!
newtonn2 says:
Jan 16, 2010. 12:46 AM REPLY
I there! I could not tell for sure which is the type of controller chip, as I would have to take it all apart to check. But after taking a few snapshot and touch
then a little with photoshop I think is the TW8816. Here are some good links about that controller chip.
http://www.synhorn.com/asp_bin/Webeditor/UploadFile/2009831135313959.pdf
benheck.com Forums • View topic - Amazing??? or no....
http://www.techwellinc.com/products/brochures/TW8816.pdf
If you think is possible to add VGA please, PLEASE, let me know how as I would love to do that.
aekara says:
Jan 7, 2011. 12:54 AM REPLY
here is a link of a 3.5" lcd monitor that has vga in
http://www.lcdshow.com/3.5_6.4-10.4_LCD/3_5_vga_lcd/3_5_vga_lcd.htm
newtonn2 says:
Jan 8, 2011. 7:18 AM REPLY
That LCD looks very good
aekara says:
yes i know but i cant find the price of it.i think its expensive
i was thinking of buying this but i have already buy an 3.5" lcd monitor from ebay
Jan 8, 2011. 11:40 AM REPLY
karonth says:
Jan 19, 2010. 1:11 PM REPLY
On page 11 of the datasheet it says that the chip supports digital rgb and vga input vith hsync and vsync http://pinouts.ru/Video/VGA15.shtml but
since there is no breakout of those pins on the pcb i think it's not a trivial task.
There are also some registers to modify to get the digital interface working (datasheet pg. 45 i think).
I'm by no means an expert, i guess if you ask a question on the benheck forum thread the guys there can give you more info.
newtonn2 says:
Jan 19, 2010. 1:53 PM REPLY
OK! never mind, Thank you very much anyway.
aekara says:
Dec 31, 2010. 7:59 AM REPLY
hi newtonn :)
i was thinking about the how to power the led can i use this power suplly for the led and for the 12v voltage regulator only? i am going to use two power
suplys
one for the led and the lcd monitor
and the other for the speakers and the fan
here is the link http://cgi.ebay.com/BRAND-NEW-15V-2A-AC-DC-Power-ac-adapter-Power-supply/130417842041?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e5d825779
newtonn2 says:
Jan 3, 2011. 12:29 AM REPLY
Hi there!
I suggest you buy the LED driver.
The ac adapter on the link it's ok, but I don't trust it's going to provide the right voltage and amps for the LED.
aekara says:
Jan 3, 2011. 9:47 AM REPLY
the 30w led come to my home today and (just to try it) i connect it to a 12v 300mA power adapter and it works but i dont know if that is the maximum
power for the led
newtonn2 says:
Jan 8, 2011. 7:20 AM REPLY
It will be a lot brighter with the right driver. You need to supply 2000mA to see the maximum brightness.
aekara says:
could you send me a link for a cheap led driver?
here is the link that i buy the led http://cgi.ebay.com/30W-White-High-Power-2100LM-LED-Light-Lamp-BulbA_W0QQitemZ220708010099QQcategoryZ163866QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp4340.m263QQ_trkparmsZalgo%3DSIC%26its%3DI%252BC%26itu%3DUC
newtonn2 says:
Jan 8, 2011. 7:21 AM REPLY
http://cgi.ebay.com/30W-AC-Power-Driver-30-Watt-LED-Light-Lamp-Bulb-A/220709273292?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item33634c3ecc#ht_3595wt_962
aekara says:
Jan 8, 2011. 11:48 AM REPLY
thank you very much
poweroflight says:
Jan 4, 2011. 7:33 AM REPLY
Hey,
I built the schematic you have in the last picture for the LED. It seems to work find and the potentioeter seems to be doing its job bu the light is not bright at
all even at the highest setting with the potentiometer. Do you know what may have gone wrong?
newtonn2 says:
Jan 4, 2011. 10:22 AM REPLY
What is the power rate of the LED? and what is the power rate of the poser supply?
Did you use the LM350? or the LM317?
poweroflight says:
Jan 4, 2011. 12:14 PM REPLY
I have this led: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380286083290&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT#ht_3149wt_905
And i have a 20v 4.5 amp laptop charger.
and i used the lm350
aekara says:
Jan 5, 2011. 1:05 AM REPLY
this led in the link is a warm white led NOT GOOD FOR THE PROJECTOR
newtonn2 says:
Do you have an ammeter to check the amps going thru the led?
view all 560 comments
Jan 4, 2011. 12:17 PM REPLY

Instructables.com - DIY Multimedia LED

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