March 2012 - Darrol Shillingburg

Transcription

Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine
• Doña Ana County
• U.S. Department of Agriculture
• NMSU College of Agricultural, Consumer and
Environmental Sciences!
!!!!!
!
Doña Ana County Cooperative Extension Office
530 North Church Street, Las Cruces, NM 88001
Phone: (575) 525-6649 Fax: (575) 525-6652
MG Program Administrator: Jeff Anderson
Editor: Ann Shine-Ring, Certified Master Gardener
! website: http://aces.nmsu.edu/damg
Newsletters can be downloaded at the NMSU
!March 2012!
Vol. 13, Issue 3
Plants-of-the-Month
Chitalpas &
Desert Willows
!
Contents:
Page
• Plants-of-the-Month
1-4
Problems with Chitalpa Trees…………...5
Article References………………………… 6
Next Month:
Easy To Grow Roses
Tips For Successfully Growing Roses
• The Dependable Daylily
•
•
•
•
7-8
March Lunch & Learn Presentation
Thanks for the Goodies
March MG Birthdays
Timeline for April Magazine Articles
• March Honey-Do List
9
9
9
9
10-11
• Where Do Bees Go in Winter?
12
• New Climate Zones in New Mexico
13
• Weed & Invasive Species Watch:
Siberian Elm
14-15
• Inspiring New Book Releases
16-17
• Veggies A-Z:
Deciphering Info On A Seed Packet
18
• Master Gardener Intern Profile
• 2012 State MG Conference
19
19
• MG Matters
• Hotline Assignments
!!!!!!!!!Desert Willow Flowers
19-21
22
Article Continues on Page 2
!
Chitalpa Flowers!
Master Gardener Hotline Client Data
(January 28, 2012 to February 28, 2012)
# Total Contacts
31
# Telephone Calls
31
# Emails
0
# Issues Addressed 58
!
The differences between the Chitalpa and
Desert Willow confuse many gardeners. How
do you tell them apart? How are they similar
and how are they different?
Both trees are grown in the deserts of the
Southwest and both have similar growing
habits. Generally, they are similar plants with
the exception that the Desert Willow is a
native for Southern Arizona as it grows along
canyon beds and rivers there. Chitalpa is a
bit more tropical in appearance with thicker
leaves.
If you look at the photo of the Chitalpa at
the left you'll notice thicker leaves and a
slight color variation. The Chitalpa also has
different colored flowers when compared with
the traditional bright pink of the Desert
Willow. Why are these two trees similar?
The Chitalpa, x Chitalpa tashkentensis, is
a hybrid between the Desert Willow and the
Southern Catalpa tree.
Geographic Area
Las Cruces 30
El Paso
1
Subject of Inquiry
Community of Hope
Biosolids
Fertilizer
Herbicides
Insects
Irrigation/Water
1 Lawns
6
7 Pruning
2
2 Shrubs
6
2 Soils
7
5 Trees
10
2 Vegetables 4
Weeds
4
Thank you to MGs Joan Lane, Janie Elliot & Valice Raffi for collecting this data.
!
New Mexico State University is an equal opportunity/affirmative action employer and educator. Doña Ana County, NMSU and USDA cooperating.!
Doña Ana County Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—March 2012
Page 2
Chitalpas & Desert Willows—Continued from Front Page
CHITALPA. Family Bigonia (Bigoniaceae) Also known as Sweet
Desert Willow
Chitalpa is reported to be an inter-generic cross between
Catalpa bignonioides (Southern Catalpa) and Chilopsis linearis
(Desert Willow). However, one horticulturist believes it is a chance
seedling sport of Desert Willow. Chitalpa’s drought-tolerance is not
surprising considering the native habitat of its Desert Willow parent
that stretches from Mexico to California and Texas.
Chitalpa is a fast-growing, multi-trunked deciduous tree that
branches near the base and creates an oval canopy. It has an
open limb structure, allowing filtered sun to pass through and grass
to grow beneath.
‘White Cloud’ Chitalpa Flower
CHITALPA (x Chitalpa tashkentensis)
Chitalpa Tree
From the Desert Willow, the Chitalpa inherits its long dark green
leaves and the ability to withstand some dry heat. Like its desert
parent, the Chitalpa can also withstand very low temperatures of
around 10°F.
At a growth rate of several feet a year, the Chitalpa reaches its
25 to 30 foot height and breadth quickly and makes shady spots
fast. Although many fast-growing trees are intolerant of windy
situations, Chitalpa can withstand even strong winds without
breakage. Unlike either of its parents, Chitalpa is sterile and
produces no messy seedpods. Also, it has no thorns.
The initial hybrids between Catalpa and Desert Willow were
created in Uzbekistan in 1964 and introduced to the U.S. by Robert
Hebb of the New York Botanic Garden in 1977. (Chitalpa is a
combination of the scientific name of the two parents, while the
specific name identifies the city in Uzbekistan where the hybrids
were created.) Although in cultivation in the U.S. during the 1980s,
the hybrid remained unnamed until 1991 when Rancho Santa Ana
Botanic Garden assigned it the name x Chitalpa tashkentensis.
Chitalpa has some of the best traits of both parents, yet it’s
sterile, so it doesn’t produce the abundant, messy seedpods of
either. Also, its mature flowers don’t drop on sidewalks, causing a
slippery goo, as does the Desert Willow on occasion. Chitalpas
have long taprrots so they won’t ruin patios and they drop all their
leaves in a short period of time so autumn clean up is easier.
Several cities in Western states have begun recommending
Chitalpa as a street tree, a drought-tolerant selection for urban
settings and for use under utility lines. This plant is also well suited
for the hot conditions near parking lots. In summary, Chitalpa is a
smaller flowering tree that fits in well with many contemporary
landscapes. And it is a lovely shade tree with the benefit of
beautiful orchid-like summer blossoms.
Form:
Fast-growing, multi-trunked deciduous tree; creates an oval
canopy; has an open limb structure allowing filtered sun to pass through
and grass to grow beneath.
Origin:
Hybrid between the Desert Willow and Southern Catalpa tree
Habitat: Parent found along washes throughout Southwest U.S. and
Mexico
Elevation: 5,000 feet and below
Height:
Can grow 2 feet or more every year to a mature height of 25
to 30 feet; about 27 ft. spread
Spacing: 15 feet
Hardiness: To 10°F degrees
Exposure: Full sun, partial shade
Foliage: Deciduous
Trunk:
Numerous stems that grow upright from the base; forms a
dense, rounded shrub
Leaves: Willow-like, glossy green leaves about 1” wide, growing up to
6” long;
Flowers: Produces large, orchid-like flowers (shown above) borne in
clusters at the ends of new growth; frilly, trumpet-shaped flowers in pink,
white, or lavender contain 15-40 inch long florets; they bloom strongest in
May-June then sporadically until frost or cold weather; fragrant; distinctive
yellow throat and venation in flower lobes.
Drought- resistant; low to moderate, once established; do not
Water:
overwater; grows best when watered every week or two
during the summer.
Tolerant of poorly drained and saline soils; clay, loam, sand,
Soil:
and alkaline; best in well drained areas
Wildlife: Attracts butterflies, bees, nectar-feeding birds, hummingbirds
and beneficial insects.
Disease: Highly resistant to cotton root rot
(See Page 5 for more info on Chitalpa tree problems.)
Sterile; does not produce messy seedpods; pool friendly plant;
Issues:
can withstand strong monsoon winds without breakage; some
season litter.
Cultivars: Two named forms—
‘Pink Dawn’ More widely grown, light pink to lavender with a yellow throat
and pale nectar guides.
‘Morning Cloud’ White-light pink blooming form (shown above). This
cultivar is more resistant to powdery mildew that can be a problem in
areas with humid springs. It has also been proven significantly more
resistant to summer leaf drop also caused by powdery mildew.
Chitalpas & Desert Willows—Continued from Page 2
DESERT WILLOW (Chilopsis linearis)
Common Names: Desert Willow, Desert Catalpa, Flowering Willow,
False Willow and Jano
Page 3
There are two subspecies of the Desert Willow:
…Chilopsis linearis subsp. linearis (Found in Utah, Arizona,
New Mexico, Western Texas, and Mexico)
Characteristics: Nearly straight or erect leaves with prominent
veins—mainly in eastern end of range from eastern New Mexico to
western-northern Texas into eastern Mexico. May be sticky (leaves
not usually sticky—but young stems may be hairy)
…Chilopsis linearis subsp. arcuata (Found in Nevada,
California, Baja California)
Characteristics: Arching, curved leaves that are up to 5.5 inches
long and not sticky--found from westernmost Baja, CA to western
AZ, NM, and grows in the most xeric part of this range.
Var. tomenticaulis Young stems are densely woolly—occurs in
Mexico, Nuevo Leon and Tamaulipas.
Desert Willow Cultivars:
‘Alpine’
‘Art’s Seedless’
Desert Willow (Chilopsis linearis)
Chilopsis is a genus of a flowering plant, containing a single species,
Chilopsis linearis. Native to Mojave, Sonoran and Chihuahuan deserts.
Despite the common name Desert Willow given because of its willow-like
leaves, it is actually a member of the bignonia family, Bignoniaceae. It is
commonly seen in washes and along riverbanks at elevations from 1,500
to 5,500 feet. In 1964, the Desert Willow was designated the official tree of
Albuquerque.
Named for its resemblance to willows, this popular ornamental tree is
actually related to Catalpa trees, Yellowbells (Tecoma stans), and Trumpet
vine (Campsis radicans). Its exotic-looking blooms, rapid growth, drought
tolerance, and ease of maintenance have made it a sought-after plant
within its range.
In its natural setting, common associates of Desert Willow include blue
palo verde (Cercidium floridum), desert ironwood (Olneya tesota), catclaw
acacia (Acacia greggii), smoketree (Dalea spinosa), mesquites (Prosopis
spp.), desert broom (Baccharis sarothroides), netleaf hackberry (Celtis
reticulata), and littleleaf sumac (Rhus microphylla).
Adapted to desert washes, it does best with just enough water to keep it
blooming and healthily green through the warm months. Desert Willow is
drought-tolerant and can be found growing naturally along streambeds or
washes, where it offers natural protection against flood and erosion
damage. From May through October, its colorful, lightly scented tubular
flowers appear, make this attractive tree a popular choice for local urban
landscaping.
Desert Willow is a large deciduous plant that can grow into a bush or a
small tree (possibly with multiple trunks). Its flowers are very fragrant and
appear in May and keep blooming until late September or until frost. It
likes moderate water and sun, thrives in the desert and is easy to grow for
landscaping.
During the cold season, Desert Willow will shed its leaves for up to six
months. In summer, few trees can rival the beauty of this flowering tree
(See photo on Page 4). Desert Willow flower colors range from white to
purple, although a pale pink or a lavender flower color is common.
Even without its familiar green foliage during the colder months, the
silhouette of Chilopsis linearis is unmistakable on the western horizon in
early evening. Its branches seem to zigzag their way to the edges of the
leaf canopy, while long, narrow, papery pods hang decoratively and
release their treasured seeds to hungry birds throughout the winter
season.
Short, wide leaves and large pink flowers
Bright pink flowers with purple accents and
virtually no pods
AZT Bi-Color
Abundant flowers over a long season and
narrow, weeping and deep green leaves
AZT
Desert Amethyst-dark purple flowers and
upright leaves
‘Barranco’
Curved leaves with ample pink to lavender
flowers
‘Bubba”
Dark purple flowers with a muscular trunk
and branches
‘Burgundy Lace’
Two-toned white and pink to magenta
flowers (possibly self-sterile); (See photo on
Page 4)
‘Dark Storm’
Almost solid deep magenta flowers
‘Hope”
White flowers, exceptionally hardy
‘Lois Adams’
Minimal pod set and light pink flowers
‘Lucretia Hamilton’ Purple flowers and a white throat and fewer
pods
‘Marfa Lace’
Semi-double pink and rose flowers with
short, wide leaves
‘Tejas’
Pink to reddish purple flowers and wider
leaves
‘Timeless Beauty’ Also known as Monhew—essentially podless
with dark pink to purple lower corolla lobes
and lighter pink upper ones.
‘Warren Jones’
Light lavender flowers in large clusters and a
more upright form
History & Folklore. The strong yet flexible wood of Desert
Willow was used by Native Americans to craft their hunting bows.
The wood was used by the Pima to construct houses, thatch roofs,
and in the making of baskets to store mesquite beans, acorns and
other foods. The Pima also enjoyed the pleasant fragrance
produced by the plant. The fibrous bark was used to make nets
and fabrics.
Medicinal Uses. The Desert Willow's flowers, leaves and bark
have all been used in hot poultices and as a soothing tea for
coughs. Other known uses were as treatments to guard against
yeast infections, Athlete's foot and as first aid for scrapes and
scratches. Tea (from the flowers) produces a natural anti-oxidant,
which promotes cardiovascular health and regulates glucose
metabolism.
Desert Willow (Chilopsis linearis)
Form:
Slender-twigged, small tree or large shrub, often with
leaning, twisting trunk and open, spreading crown.
Origin:
Native to Mojave, Sonoran and Chihuahuan deserts.
Habitat:
Moist soils of stream banks and drainages in plains and
foothills, desert & desert grasslands, often forming thickets.
Elevation:
From 1500 to 5,000 ft. in its range
Height:
10-25 ft. (8-20 ft. tall and 10-15 ft. wide)
Hardiness: To 10°F degrees; sturdy, heat-loving native to warm
deserts—grows well in New Mexico lowlands but may not be suited to
elevations above 5,500 or where cold hardiness is challenged. Fast
growing as a young tree-then slows its growth rate as it matures.
Exposure: Full sun, partial shade
Bark:
Dark brown, ridged and scaly
Leaves:
Deciduous, 6 to 12 inches long and narrow
Flowers:
April to August; clusters of orchid-like pink to lavender
1½-inch long blossoms
Fruit:
4 to 12 inch long seedpods
Drought tolerant; 12” min. per year; does not do well with
Water:
winter watering. After it is dormant, cease watering until the beginning of
March. It may need frequent watering during the heat of its first summer.
Once the roots are established, needs no additional water; however,
without supplemental water, may become drought-stressed and defoliate.
Soil:
Adaptable, well-draining
Thorns:
None
Wildlife:
Attracts butterflies, bees, nectar-feeding birds,
hummingbirds and beneficial insects.
Propagation: Fresh seeds, semi-hardwood and dormant cuttings;
transplant early summer through early autumn; root rot could be a problem
in wet, heavy clay; sow seeds in warm, well-drained soil in spring; selected
flower colors are grown from soft cuttings taken in summer or from hardwood cuttings taken in spring; has coarse roots with sponge-like surfaces
lacking fibrous root hairs.
Pollination: Pollinated primarily by large bees in the family Apidae, such
as carpenter bees, bumblebees, Anthophora, and Centris.
Pests:
Rarely bothered with disease or insect pests, but larvae of
hairstreak butterflies spin fibrous cocoons and can consume a noticeable
number of leaves. Remove cocoons manually to limit the munching.
Issues:
Important in erosion control; stiff durable wood suitable for
fence posts; prune to develop desired shape of tree; flowers grow on new
wood—so prune in dormant season to encourage profuse blooming; can
freeze to the ground, but recovers rapidly and regains its height.
Page 4
Propagation & Care. Adaptable to most soils as long as
drainage is good, this tree prefers full sun but will tolerate partial
shade. Established plants are considered drought-tolerant,
requiring only deep, infrequent irrigations recommended for most
desert-adapted trees. Little maintenance required but minor
selective pruning may be appropriate if a more tree-like form is
desired. Fallen leaves and seedpods blend into a coarse
groundcover, eliminating the need to rake or remove them.
Water to depth of 2-3 feet every two weeks when temps are
above 90°degrees until desired height is reached. Water once a
month in late spring though early fall and every 6 weeks during
winter. Watering is optional once the plants fill the desired
space. No fertizing needed—if forced to grow more than 2 feet
per year, these trees become less wind-resilient.
Let your Desert Willow grow a few years until it begins to
show some character. Emphasize the shapeliest stems and
remove all the twiggy growth and suckers with a few feet of the
ground in early summer each year.
Easily propagated from seed, Desert Willow can also be
grown vegetatively from cuttings and is a fast grower in urban
landscapes. Individual specimens have been selected from the
wild, cross pollinated with other specimens, cloned, and
marketed with characteristics such as specific flower color or
growth habit. Some of the newer varieties are "Rio Salado,"
"Lucretia Hamilton," "Warren Jones," and "Lois Adams.
Landscape Uses. In hot, dry areas the attractive form, willowlike leaves, and beautiful blooms of Chilopsis linearis are a
welcome sight. It is a must-have for luring hummingbirds into a
landscape, and even small native birds such as verdins will
search out the nectar-producing flowers (although they tend to
pierce the flower at the base as a shortcut).
When placed on the south, east or west sides of homes,
Desert Willows provide shade in the summer while allowing
ambient heating in the winter. It is one of the few native trees
that will tolerate growing in a lawn area even with year-round
irrigation and maintenance. Planted in groups, the Desert Willow
can be used as a screen or windbreak. It also provides shelter
for nesting birds.
Companion Planting. Use Desert Willow as an accent
specimen, planted in groves for light shade near windows and
patios, and along streambed paths and storm drainage
channels. Its light shade accommodates a host of low-water
wildflowers and groundcovers.
‘Burgundy Lace’ Desert Willow Cultivar
PROBLEMS WITH C HITALPA TREES. Although Desert Willows have been
found to be relatively disease-free, some problems with the Chitalpa have
been identified, as follows:
A gardener in Albuquerque reported that her Chitalpa grew so fast that its
bark split and may have invited bacterial diseases. This article refers to
"Bacterial Wetwood Disease" that causes slime flux. For more information
about this, see these links:
http://cals.arizona.edu//maricopa/garden/
Page 5
BACTERIAL LEAF SCORCH IN
CHITALPA TREES
and follow links: >Publications >Bulletins >Disease >AZ1031 Slime Flux to
http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1031.pdf
See also
http://www.utextension.utk.edu/publications/spfiles/SP631.pdf
In the Albuquerque Journal in September 2011, Dr. Curtis Smith
responded to a gardener’s complaint about disease symptoms on her
Chiltapla. He tested samples sent to him and found they where infected with
xyella fastidoiosa. Smith stated that, “The plants from which the propagation
stock is collected in the wholesale nurseries are the probable source of the
infection in all samples.”
“The insect that carries the disease from plant to plant doesn’t exist in New
Mexico (although a related insect does). The disease and insect vector are
prevalent in California, where most of our nursery stock for these plants
originates (and probably the original source for nursery stock in other
states).”
Also, Master Gardeners in Otero County (no date on article) found a
serious outbreak of xylella fastidoiosa (bacterial leaf scorch). They stated
that, “Almost all of the established Chitalpas they tested (over 90%) were
positive for xylella fastidiosa, commonly known as bacterial leaf scorch (see
photos in next Column). We feel that the high percentage of infected trees is
related to the fact that this plant is vegetatively propagated--any cutting taken
from an infected plant will produce another infected plant. Many plants in
nurseries have also tested positive. This bacterium is highly variable in
infected plants (it may be present in one leaf or branch but not another).”
Additionally testers had not seen any Chitalpas in their area that did not
exhibit at least some of the symptoms listed below.
SYMPTOMS: “The bacterium plugs up the xylem and also produces toxins
that affect the plant’s ability to move water through the plant. As a result, the
tree exhibits stress symptoms including leaf spots, marginal necrosis,
chlorosis, pre-mature leaf drop, branch dieback and (ultimately), death.”
“The disease is progressive and it may take several (10-20) years for it to
completely kill a tree. In the process, the tree generally exhibits more severe
symptoms each year. In some cases, particularly early in the disease cycle,
the tree may drop foliage in the hottest part of the summer and then put on a
flush of new foliage the same year. When this occurs, the foliage is generally
small and pale compared to what is expected for this species.”
“There is no cure or treatment other than good water management. The
tree will look better if additional stresses such as drought are avoided.
Additionally reports from some Chitalpa owners who say that if you prune
heavily each year (in the winter, before bud break) the tree will look better for
a longer number of years.”
These issues point to the importance of not over planting of a particular
plant species which has tendencies toward some disease and other issues.
Also, it emphasizes the overall importance of good cultural practices in the
garden and landscape. For more information on this problem, go to link at
NMSU:
http://www.oteromastergardeners.com/Chitalpa%20Bacterial%20Leaf%20Scorch.htm
Leaf Spots
Marginal Necrosis
New Growth Appears Healthy.
Older Leaves Show Signs of Disease.
Page 6
Chitalpa Tree
Desert Willow Tree
"ARTICLE REFERENCES "
Chilopsis linearis (Desert Willow) in Landscaping with Native Plants of the Southwest, by George Oxford Miller, 2007
Chilopsis linearis (Desert Willow) in the Complete How To Guide To Xeriscaping, City of Albuquerque, Water Conservation
Office
Chilopsis linearis in Mountain States Wholesale Nursery Product Catalog
Chilopsis linearis on Ladybird Wildflower Center Database At link:
http://www.wildflower.org/plants/result.php?id_plant=CHLI2
Chilopsis on Wikipedia at link: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chilopsis
Chitalpa on Landscape Plants: University of Florida on http://hort.ufl.edu/woody/Pages/chitas/chitas.shtml
Chitalpa on Sierra Vista Growers at link: http://www.sierravistagrowers.net/growild/node/68
Chitalpa on Wikipedia at link: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chitalpa
Chitalpa tashkentensis By Gwen Kilchherr, Sonoma County Master Gardener at link:
http://ucanr.org/sites/scmg/Plant_of_the_Month/Chitalpa_tashkentensis/
Chitalpa tashkentensis in Trees and Shrubs for the Southwest, by Mary Irish, 2008
Chitalpa tashkentensis on Top Tropicals at link: http://toptropicals.com/catalog/uid/Chitalpa_taschkentensis.htm
Chitalpa vs. Desert Willow vs. Catalpa on Las Adventuras at link: http://gardeningandthespanishwayrohrerbot.blogspot.com/2011/03/chitalpa-vs-desert-willow-and-catalpa.html
Chitalpa x tashkentensis in Mountain States Wholesale Nursery Product Catalog
Chitalpa, X Chitalpa tashkentensis on Delange Xeriscape Landscaping Plants For The Arizona Desert Environment Pictures, Photos,
and Information Trees at link: http://www.delange.org/Chitalpa/Chitalpa.htm
Chitalpa: The Best Fast Growing Trees for Hot, Dry Climates at link: http://www.hotgardens.net/fast_growing_trees.htm
Desert Willow Indigenous Imposter by Cathy Rymer, Master Gardener, Certified Arborist, Water Conservation Specialist, Town of
Gilbert At link: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/0104/willow.html
Desert Willow on Texas Tree Selecter at link: http://texastreeplanting.tamu.edu/Display_Onetree.aspx?tid=18
Desert Willow Tree (Chilopsis linearis) on Arizona Living & Landscape at link: http://www.landscapearizona.com/trees/desert-willowtree.htm
Desert Willow Tree (Chilopsis linearis) on Horticulture Unlimited.com at link: http://www.horticultureunlimited.com/landscapeplants/desert-willow.html
Desert Willow/Chilopsis linearis in Landscape Plants for the Arizona Desert by the Arizona Municipal Water Users Assn. 2008
Desert Willow/Chilopsis linearis in Native Gardens for Dry Climates, by Sally Wasowski with Andy Wasowki, 1995
Desert Willow/Chilopsis linearis in New Mexico Gardener’s Guide (Revised), by Judith Phillips, 2001
Desert Willow/Chilopsis linearis in Trees and Shrubs for the Southwest, by Mary Irish, 2008
Desert Willow on Tree New Mexico at link: http://www.treenm.com/education/desertwillow.shtml
Page 7
Growing Advice:
The Dependable Daylily
By Crystal Rennicke, Assistant Editor, Backyard Living, 2008
If a daylily could talk, it might whisper poetic proverbs,
reminding its passerby to “seize the day” or “live life to the fullest”.
Each colorful, trumpet-shaped bloom is short-lived, opening and
fading in a single day. And while the plant produces new flowers
daily, each fleeting bloom serves as a subtle reminder to
appreciate the beauty of each day.
But the real magic of the daylily is made clear after you get
acquainted with it. Gardeners have grown to love daylilies for their
classic dependability, disease resistance and carefree nature.
Truly, few plants live up to their reputation.
Even though daylilies might be deemed “old-fashioned”, there
are new cultivars developed constantly. Today, there are close to
60,000 hybrids, coming in a wide array of colors (virtually every
color except blue), shapes and sizes—perfect for satisfying every
gardener’s whim. And since many of these newcomers are bred to
rebloom and grace the garden all season long, the daylily earns its
title as the “perfect perennial.” Like a reliable friend the easy going
daylily arrives at the beginning of each summer and shines all
season long.
What’s Not To Love? Daylilies are available in many colors,
shapes and sizes. They’re low maintenance, suitable for most
types of landscapes, drought-resistant, disease- and insect-free
and adaptable to soil and light conditions; many bloom from late
spring to fall.
The Many Uses for Daylilies: The daylily is one of the most
versatile flowering plants available. Since it adapts to most soil
types and light requirements, its uses are seemingly limitless.
…Slopes. Daylilies have a strong root system, which enables them
to help prevent erosion on a steep slope.
…Containers. There are many miniature and dwarf varieties of
daylily that are perfect for smaller backyards or container
gardeners.
…Background Planting. Plant daylilies behind lower-growing
annuals and perennials to fill out your flowerbeds.
…In Masses. Daylilies are effective when planted in drifts and
sweeping masses. And in doing so, you create a large area of
your backyard that needs little to no care!
…Edgings. Popular places to plant daylilies are along walkways
and paths or the edges of flowerbeds.!
! Spring and late summer or early fall are ideal times to plant daylilies.
! Daylilies thrive in full sun, but they tolerate partial or afternoon shade
and may prefer it in hotter climates.
! Space daylilies at least 18” to 24” apart in groups of 3 to 6 plants of
the same type. Plant them in well-drained, moderately fertile soil.
! Leaves of some cultivars may yellow after flowering, but remove
them, allowing new foliage to fill in and flowers to take center stage.
! Northern gardeners can mulch soil after the ground freezes for
additional winter insulation.
! Control light infestations of spider mites and thrips by rinsing plants
with a firm spray of water or applying insecticidal soap according to
the package’s directions.
! Dividing daylilies is a common way for gardeners to start new
plants—in fact, daylilies are famous “pass-along” plants among
gardening friends. Just make sure each piece you remove from the
parent clump has roots and at least one fan of foliage.
! For an ongoing display, mix repeat-blooming daylilies with a colorful
combination of early-summer, mid-season and late-blooming
varieties.
! When using daylilies as a ground cover around trees, take note that it
may take them extra time and attention to become established, as the
trees compete for water and nutrients.
! After 3 to 5 years, plants should be divided to prevent overcrowding.
Some New Varieties To Try:
FLAMINGO FANTASY
Fragrant blooms of hot pink, rose and deep rose with
a gorgeous glowing-green throat.
Flower Size:
5 inches
Height:
26 inches
Bloom Time:
Mid-summer Rebloom: No
Fascinating Fact: Very fragrant and extended-blooming variety
Featuring:
FRANS HALS
Striking bicolor with orange sepals and bright reddish
copper petals with cream-orange midribs.
Flower Size:
4½ inches
Height: 18-24 inches
Bloom Time:
Midsummer to late summer Rebloom: Yes
Fascinating Fact: Tough-as-nails heirloom variety that blooms into late
August.
Featuring:
Page 8
Daylilies---Continued From Page 7
!
NONA’S GARNET SPIDER
Spider-like blooms with garnet red petals, a golden
yellow eye and a tiny green throat
Flower Size:
6½ inches
Height:
28-36 inches
Bloom Time:
Midsummer
Rebloom: No
Fascinating Fact: An extended bloomer, this daylily’s flowers bloom
up to 16 hours.
Featuring:
ANGEL RODGERS
Lavender flowers with lighter midribs, a bright
purple eye and yellow-green throat. Extended
bloomer; flowers last at least 16 hours each.
Flower Size:
6 inches
Height:
18-24 inches
Bloom Time:
Midsummer
Rebloom: No
Fascinating Fact: A vigorous grower. Divide this daylily often to
maximize its beauty.
Featuring:
MEAN MISTER MUSTARD
Featuring:
Mustard-yellow flower with a wine-red eye
and picotee edge; amazing bud counts and
over 70 days of color.
Flower Size:
6 inches
Height: 26 inches
Bloom Time:
Early to late summer Rebloom: Yes
Fascinating Fact: The name for this daylily comes from a
popular Beatles song about a grouchy,
colorful man, from their album Abbey Road.
FRANCIS OF ASSISI
Mauve flowers with a well-defined white
picotee edge and a watermark above a
yellow-to-green throat.
Flower Size:
6 inches
Height: 26 inches
Bloom Time:
Midsummer Rebloom: Yes
Fascinating Fact: A daylily grower’s favorite because of its
striking color.
Featuring:
!
SUNDAY GLOVES
Near-white blossoms that are highly fragrant with
loosely ruffled petals, a pale-yellow eye and tiny
celery-green throat.
Flower Size:
5¼ inches
Height:
24 inches
Bloom Time:
Early summer to midsummer Rebloom: Yes
Fascinating Fact: This is a ‘designer’ daylily, which means that it is
vibrantly colored, winter-hardy and a vigorous
grower.
Featuring:
!
CAPRICORN FIESTA
Featuring:
Recurved, honey-apricot petals with a
russet-red eye, narrow yellow watermark
and a lime-green throat.
Flower Size:
5½ inches
Height: 18 to 36 inches
Bloom Time:
Early summer Rebloom: Yes
Fascinating Fact: Very fragrant daylily with a high bud count
and extended blooming.
!
!
Page 9
BRANIGAN MEMORIAL LIBRARY
“LUNCH & LEARN” PRESENTATION
Date:
Time:
Thursday, March 15, 2012
12:00-1:00 p.m.
Place:
Branigan Memorial Library
Location: Roadrunner Meeting Room
!
MARCH BIRTHDAYS
Russ Boor
Mary Andrews
Linden Ranels
Dan Brandt
Jeff Anderson
March 1
March 8
March 19
March 24
March 30
MANY THANKS FOR THE GOODIES
We appreciate your thoughtfulness
Speaker:
Micah Ward, NMSU Horticulture Student
Topic:
A New Look: A Colorful
Facelift for the NMSU
Demonstration Gardens
Synopsis: Micah Ward spent her summer of 2011
working in the hot sun to revitalize the
NMSU Demonstration Gardens on
University Avenue. She will share
pictures, landscaping trends and ideas,
and some easy-maintenance plant
suggestions for homeowners interested
in adding color to their landscapes.
Information provided by Sylvia Hacker, Certified MG
March Goodies
Dick Hiss
Dixie LaRock
Dael Goodman
April Goodies
Ann Shine-Ring
Carla Clouser
Sherry Hulsey
The deadline for submitting articles and information
for the April 2012 MG Monthly Magazine will be
Friday, March 30th
Contact Info: Ann Shine-Ring, Editor
[email protected]
(This is my new email address)
(575) 640-7177
Page 10
Honey-Do List for March 2012
Much of our suggested garden task information comes directly from Month-by-Month Gardening
in the Desert Southwest by Mary Irish (2002). We wanted you to know that this is an outstanding
gardening resource book. Also, some of our recommendations come from Southwest Planting
Tips by the Month and the Tucson Gardening Calendar both of which are produced by the
Tucson Botanical Gardens.!
General: We are all eager to get outside and start planting but remember our average last freeze date is between April 1 and April 20! Be
prepared to protect young plants from the desiccating winds and cold nights of March. Row covers, old blankets, and walls of water come to
mind. Check your irrigation systems and add more drip emitters if needed to water under the drip line of plants. Irrigate established shrubs
and trees, preferably to a depth of 2 feet. Use a soil probe to determine depth. And, don’t forget to start new plants for our next MG plant
sale on Saturday, April 14th.
Ornamentals
• Plant cannas, crinum, dahlia transplants, verbena, gaillardia, gazania, marigold seeds, Mexican and
Maximilian sunflower, aster, coreopsis, statice, petunia and zinnia.
• Plant hollyhocks now through May.
• Divide and replant perennials such as chrysanthemum, daylily, and Shasta daisy.
• Seed of warm-season annuals that were planted in February should be germinated, and the small
seedlings will be growing quickly. This regularly to keep the plants from crowding each other.
• Plant Carolina Jessamine, Virginia creeper, trumpet vines, silver lace vine, and Lady Banks roses.
Fruit, Nut, Citrus & Shade Trees
• Begin mid-month to fertilize established fruit and nut trees. Be careful not to fertilize fruit while
is blooming; this can shock the plant, causing blossom drop and subsequent loss of fruit.
• Be careful about spraying fruit trees and other blooming edible plants. Bees and other insects
are working hard to pollinate flowers so there will be a good fruit set.
• As soon as fruit has set on deciduous fruit trees, especially apples, peaches, pears and
apricots, and is about the size of a walnut, begin to thin the fruit.
• Finish planting bareroot material before mid-month.
• Irrigate established shrubs and trees, preferably to a depth of 2 feet. Use a soil probe to
determine depth.
Vegetables, Fruit & Herbs
• Finish planting Cole crops, radishes, parsley, lettuces, kohlrabi, and leafy greens.
• Plant garlic, beets, Brussels sprouts, and Chinese cabbage.
• Late March, plant tomatoes, eggplant, peppers, summer squash, sweet corn, and ‘New
Zealand’ summer spinach.
• Cut back frost-damaged perennials herbs such as mint and sage, then fertilize and water.
• Plant strawberries and grape vines. Grapes begin to grow rapidly at this time of year. Thin out
extra shoots and tendrils to continue to train the vine to the arbor or trellis.
Lawns / Turf / Ornamental Grasses
• If you didn’t fertilize cool-season grass in February, do so now.
• Clean up cool-season ornamental grasses by “combing” with your fingers or a rake. If plant is
large and ratty-looking, cut it back also.
• Scalp warm-season grasses, lower mower height and mow to remove dead leaf tissue. Rake or
bag clippings. Clean air filter often during this process and be sure to wear a dust mask.
• Cut back pampas grass and other warm-season ornamental grasses.
• Take your lawn mower to the shop for a tune up.
Page 11
Honey-Do List for March—Continued
ROSES
• To encourage larger flowers, remove any side buds that arise out of Hybrid teas. On shrub roses,
Floribunda or Grandiflora roses, remove the center bud of the cluster to increase flower size.
• Renew a regular fertilization schedule for established roses. Many gardeners fertilize once a
month, but discontinue it during the hottest part of the summer. Roses are heavy feeders, and
those grown in containers or in soils that have not been heavily amended when the roses where
planted, may need more frequent fertilization.
• In late March, fertilize newly planted roses with a mild fertilizer of fish emulsion. Do not use
granular-formulated fertilizers, even if they are geared for roses, until mid-April when the redcolored new budding begins as it could burn your roses and stunt blooming.
• Organic fertilizers like alfalfa meal, compost or other formulations for roses that blend many
ingredients, work more slowly and can be applied more frequently.
• Finish up any roses that still need some pruning. Remove all leaves and week crossing,
diseased or damaged canes, and cut back the entire rose plant to approximately 24 inches tall. Leave three to five healthy canes.
• Every 5-7 days, water established roses to a depth of 16”-18”. Remember, it is more important to water deeply than to water often.
• Continue to monitor for aphids and powdery mildew on your roses. Keep the area around your roses free of debris, and mulch heavily to
prevent splashing from any overhead watering.
Cacti & Succulents
• Begin to plant warm-season succulents now through May.
• Watch newly planted succulents like agaves and cactus to be sure they are
not being sunburned. Protect the south or west side of these plants with a
sunscreen a shade cloth or a light-colored cloth. Protection can be draped directly
on the plant or laid over a frame. Pale-skin or yellowed patches that appear
suddenly on the plant are the first signs of sunburn.!
• Remove dead ocotillo canes. Bend cane gently; if it snaps off, it’s dead. Then
make a clean cut with loppers.!
• Increase watering of warm-season succulents to twice a month. As with most
plants, it is better to water deeply but infrequently.!
• Water winter-dormant succulents only when leaves first show, then begin to
water regularly.!
• Prune any frost damage from succulents with a clean cut, dusting the cut with sulfur when complete. Cut back chollas and prickly pears if
they have become too large as they will begin to grow quickly by the end of the month.
Some of the above recommendations came from the Tucson Botanical Garden’s monthly “calendar of care” for cacti and succulents.!
PESTS
• Keep an eye out for aphids on the new succulent growth of roses, lilacs, and others. Hose them off with a strong jet of water.
• To reduce problems with powdery mildew, water susceptible plants in the early morning. Also, clean leaf litter from under plants. This will
reduce pathogens.
• Flea beetles attack Mexican evening primrose foliage and tender spring vegetables.
It is always important to correctly identify any insect you suspect may have caused damage to your plants. If you do not know what
the insect is, collect one in a plastic bag or small jar and take it to the Doña Ana County Cooperative Extension Office located at 530 N.
Church in Las Cruces (located just north of the Main Post Office downtown.)
Miscellaneous
• Check your irrigation systems. Add more drip emitters if needed to water under drip line of plants.
• Spread mulch under and around plants.
• Be prepared to protect young plants from the desiccating winds and cold nights of March. Row covers, old blankets, and walls of water
come to mind.
Where Do Bees Go In Winter?
Author: Susanne Talbert, in Dave’s Garden, January 19, 2012
Each insect has its own particular way of dealing with cold temperatures
during the long winter months. Different species of bees have different
ways of coping with the cold, from hibernation to dying and putting energy
into future generations. Read on for a more in-depth explanation of several
different species of bees' survival mechanisms.
Page 12
Carpenter Bees (Xylocopa violacea)
Carpenter bees are named for their nesting technique of
drilling tunnels into old wood. During the cold winter months,
carpenter bees will find an old nest tunnel in which to
hibernate through the winter. In the spring, carpenter bees will
emerge and mate.
Once mated, the female bee will find a new suitable spot for
a nest and drill into the wood in order to make a nest. She will
then excavate a tunnel, which can run up to a couple inches
long, and lay her eggs. In the summer, the next generation of
carpenter bees will emerge as adults.
Honeybees (Apis mellifera)
Honeybees have a very interesting method of winter survival.
Honeybees stop flying when the weather drops below 50°F. When the
temperature drops below that, the bees all crowd into the lower central
area of the hive and form a "winter cluster." The worker bees huddle
around the queen bee at the center of the cluster, shivering in order to
keep the center around 80°F. The worker bees rotate through the cluster
from the outside to the inside so that no bee gets too cold. The outside
edges of the cluster stay at about 46-48°F. The colder the weather is
outside, the more compact the cluster becomes.
Hibernating honeybees have been studied and shown to consume up to
30 pounds of stored honey during the winter months, which helps the bees
produce body heat. Heat energy is produced by the oxidation of the honey,
and circulated throughout the hive by the wing-fanning of worker bees.
Note the diagram below:
On warmer days, bees will venture out for short flights to eliminate body
waste. The flights do not last long nor do the bees travel very far because
if their body gets too cold they might not be able to return to the hive.
Blue Banded Bees (Amegilla sp.)
During fall, blue banded bee adults all die as temperatures
cool within their nests. Before they die, however, the female
bees lay eggs within the nests, which become immature bees
called prepupae. They remain dormant, burrowed in the nest
inside cell sacs throughout the winter months and do not
emerge until spring brings warmer weather. Then they finish
their development into adults and emerge into the warmth of
spring and begin a new season of life.
Bees are very interesting creatures that have individual and
specialized systems for surviving naturally through harsh
winters.#
Article Suggested by Dale Petzold, Certified MG
CHANGES IN STORE FOR
NEW MEXICO GARDENS
By Amanda Schoenberg in the Albuquerque Journal, Jan.29, 2012
It’s now official for gardeners. The government’s colorful map of
planting zones, most often seen on the back of seed packets, is
changing, illustrating a hotter 21st century.
In New Mexico, the map reflects changes that David Salman,
president and chief horticulturist of High Country Gardens, has seen in
the last 30 years.
“The climate has definitely warmed here in Santa Fe,” he says.
“We’re getting less extreme cold and seeing overall slightly warmer day
temperatures.”
Over the years, downtown Santa Fe has warmed from zone 5a to 6b
and up to 7a in parts, he says.
According to the map, Albuquerque remains in zone 7b while parts of
Bernalillo County warmed from 7a to 7b.
The change in New Mexico expands the selection of ornamental
plants gardeners can plant in northern New Mexico, Salman says. It
also means people can grow vegetables with a longer, hotter growing
season like melon and chile. Gardeners can also grow more trees and
shrubs, he says.
Desert Willow, a popular tree in Albuquerque, now grows easily in
Santa Fe.
The biggest difference between the old and new maps is the
technology used to create them, says David Gutzler, a professor of
climatology in the Department of Earth and Planetary Sciences at the
University of New Mexico. The new map is much more detailed. It uses
better weather data and offers more interactive technology. Gardeners
can register their ZIP code into the online map and their zone will pop
up.
For the first time, the map takes in factors such as cities being hotter
than suburbs and rural areas, nearby large bodies of water, prevailing
winds, and the slope of land.
Gutzler said that given dramatic weather variation throughout New
Mexico, it can be hard to tell whether the new map simply reflects better
technology or real climate differences.
It’s the first time since 1990 that the U.S. Department of Agriculture
has updated the map. Nationally, major portions of entire states, such
as Ohio, Nebraska and Texas, are in warmer zones.
In the old 1990 map, the USDA mentions 34 different U.S. cities on
Page 13
In New Mexico, the easiest places to see change between
the two maps is the eastern plains, where there is less
variability caused by mountains, Gutzler says.
The 1990 map didn’t get past zone 7b. In the new one,
zone 8a creeps north, making far southeastern New Mexico
one zone hotter. That conforms with the kind of climate
changes he has seen in the state, Gutzler says.
“Over the past few decades, things are a few degrees
warmer, in general,” Gutzler says.
No matter where gardeners live in New Mexico, Salman
recommends caution when it comes to trees and cold
tolerance. In Las Cruces, many people planted palm trees but
lost them during last year’s cold winter. Moving up a zone
when it comes to cold hardiness can help keep trees alive in
extreme cold.
Heat tolerance is also a worry, says Joran Viers, Agriculture
Agent for Bernalillo County Cooperative Extension. Given
rising temperatures, Viers says he would not be surprised if
shade-covered vegetable beds became the norm in New
Mexico.
The new map is a “good starting point,” but shouldn’t be
treated as gospel, says Viers. He does not encourage New
Mexicans to rush out and buy new plants, partly because
maps may change again.
“Most people who contact us about plant recommendations
aren’t going by the map,” Viers says. “They just call us and
say, ‘What’s a good tree?’ ”
New Mexico’s many micro-climates make a huge difference
when choosing plants. Although Albuquerque is listed as zone
7b on the new map, Viers thinks parts of the city are more like
zone 8a.
Viers knows one gardener with a thriving pistachio tree in
his midtown Albuquerque yard, near a south-facing wall. The
next thriving pistachio tree is in Alamogordo, he says.
For more information, check out the New Mexico
Interactive USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map at this link:
http://www.plantmaps.com/interactive-new-mexico-usda-plantzone-hardiness-map.php
Article Suggested by Mona Nelson, Certified MG
Weed & Invasive Species Watch:
SIBERIAN ELM
Common Names: Chinese elm, Dwarf elm or Asiatic elm
NM Noxious Weed: Listed as a Class C Species on the New Mexico Noxious
Weed List. Class C species are widespread in New Mexico. Management
decisions for dealing with these species should be made at the local level
based upon feasibility of control and level of infestation.
Origin: Native to Northern China, Eastern Siberia, Manchuria, and Korea.
Description: A deciduous tree that invades rangelands, grasslands, pastures,
semi-arid areas, and riparian areas, as well as disturbed areas such as
roadsides, ditches, and open fields
Siberian elm (Ulmus pumila) is a very hardy, fast-growing tree that was
introduced to the U.S. in the 1860's. It is the hardiest of all elms and does well
even in areas with cold winters and long periods of summer droughts. Because
this elm tolerates a variety of conditions such as poor soils and low moisture, it
is found in dry regions, along roadsides, and in pastures and grasslands. The
tree also grows in moist soils along streams. It invades dry and mesic prairies.
The Siberian elm is a small to medium-sized tree that has an open, round
crown of slender, spreading branches. It generally reaches 50-70 feet and has
gray or brown bark with shallow furrows at maturity. Both its buds and twigs are
nearly hairless.
Siberian elm leaves (shown below) are alternate, oblong in shape, 1” to
3“long, and usually have saw-toothed margins. The flowers are greenish and
clustered with short pedicels, and appear with or before the leaves from March
through April. The bark is a light gray-brown with irregular furrows and is often
streaked with stains caused by bacterial wetwood. The fruit (shown in Column
Two) is a samara that ripens from April to May, and consists of a dry,
compressed nutlet surrounded by a thin, membranous wing.
Siberian elm can be distinguished from native American elm and Slippery
elm by the following characteristics: Siberian elm has relatively small leaves
that are nearly symmetrical and are once-serrate; both American and slippery
elm have leaves typically over 2.8 inches long that are strongly asymmetrical at
the base and are usually twice-serrate. Chinese elm (Ulmus parviflora) is exotic
but not as invasive. Chinese elm flowers in late summer or fall. The apex and
teeth of the leaves are less sharply acute than U. pumila.
Page 14
Uses: The inner bark of Siberian elm was dried and ground into
a powder for thickening soups or adding to cereal flours in bread
making. Immature fruit was used to produce sauce and wine and
the wood was used for agricultural implements and boat making.
Ecological Threat: Dry to mesic prairies and stream banks are
vulnerable to Siberian elm invasion. Thickets of seedlings soon
form around seed-producing trees, bare ground areas, animal
and insect mounds, and other disturbed areas. Wind carries
seed to distant areas where new colonies can form. This tough
exotic survives under conditions not easily tolerated by other
species, allowing it to take advantage of open ground and
resources otherwise used by native plants. Fast-growing
seedlings of Siberian elm quickly overtake native vegetation,
especially shade-intolerant species. This often leads to invasion
by additional weedy species, compounding the problem.
Curtis W. Smith states that, “The Siberian elm is very common
in Albuquerque and has become a nuisance. They are useful
trees in areas where trees are desired but care is unavailable.
Unfortunately, their profuse production of viable seeds results in
elms growing where they are unwanted. If you cut the tree, there
is a good chance it will sprout from the base. Unlike cottonwoods, it is less likely to produce sprouts from the roots over a
large area.”
Professor Michael Dirr states that the Siberian elm is, "one of,
if not the, world's worst trees...a poor ornamental that does not
deserve to be planted anywhere" Yet in 1950’s in the U.S. this
tree was also widely promoted as a fast-growing hedging
substitute for Privet, and as a consequence is now commonly
found in nearly all states. It is the improved variant of the
Turkestan Elm U. pumila var. arborea that is lately seen more
often in gardens and referred to as the 'wonder hedge' (Ulmus
pumila celer), being both dense and fast-growing, taking as little
as two years to reach fence height.
Ulmus pumila are very drought and cold-resistant allowing it to
grow in areas where other trees cannot. The abundant, winddispersed seeds allow this plant to spread rapidly. Seeds
germinate readily and seedlings grow rapidly. As an ornamental
U. pumila is a very poor tree, tending to be short-lived, with
brittle wood and poor crown shape, but has nevertheless
enjoyed some popularity owing to its rapid growth and provision
of shade. Siberian elm forms dense thickets that close open
areas and displace native vegetation, thereby reducing forage
for wild animals and livestock.
Siberian Elm Fruit
!!
Page 15
Siberian Elm-Continued from Page 14
Culture: The species has a high sunlight requirement and is not shadetolerant; with adequate light it exhibits rapid growth. The tree is also fairly
intolerant of wet ground conditions. It prefers well-drained, fertile soil and
full sun, however, it is highly adaptable and easily tolerates, even thrives
in, a variety of conditions such as poor, dry soils, cold winters and long
periods of summer drought. While it is very resistant to drought and severe
cold, and able to grow on poor soils, its short period of dormancy,
flowering early in spring followed by continuous growth until the first frosts
of autumn, renders it vulnerable to frost damage.
Siberian Elm Article
—References—
Eliminate “Chinese Elms” by Curtis W. Smith at link:
http://aces.nmsu.edu/ces/yard/2001/060201.html
New Mexico Noxious Weed List, April 2009
Siberian Elm ((Ulmus pumila) at link:
http://www.ag.ndsu.edu/trees/handbook/th-3-117.pdf
Roots: Deep and extensive root system.
Reproduction: From root crown or from seed; most reproduction and
spread occurs through seed.
Pests and Diseases: The tree has considerable variability in resistance to
Dutch elm disease. Moreover, like many other elms in North America, it is
highly susceptible to damage from many insects and parasites, including
the elm leaf beetle, Xanthogaleruca luteola, powdery mildew, cankers,
aphids, and leaf spot. Common diseases include Tubercularia canker,
Botryodiplodia canker and wetwood. Common insect pests include
cankerworm. It is very sensitive to phenoxy herbicides. However, is the
most resistant of all the elms to verticillium wilt.
Management Do’s & Don’ts
! Physical removal is effective for seedlings or small trees.
! Girding is effective for mature trees if performed properly.
! Herbicides are effective.
! For long-term management of Siberian elm, reduction of seed sources
is essential.
Chemical To avoid resprouts after cutting or girdling, cut stumps may be
treated with systemic herbicides such as glyphosate (e.g., Roundup®) and
triclopyr (e.g., Garlon). Cut stems can be immediately treated with
glyphosate herbicide as a 20-percent solution (2.5 quarts per 3-gallon mix)
in water with a surfactant.
Manual During the growing season, seedlings can be hand-pulled and
small trees carefully removed by a grub hoe or weed wrench. Trees
girdled in mid-May to early July will die over 1-2 years without sprouting if
cut properly. To remove a band of bark from the wood, make two parallel
cuts 3-4 inches apart, then knock bark off with a blunt object such as the
back of an axe head or dull end of a girdling bar. The xylem must remain
intact; if girdled too deeply the tree will respond as if cut down and will
resprout. On sites with few seed sources, the large trees can be cut down
and resprouts trimmed as needed.
Fire A regular regime of prescribed burning in fire-adapted communities
will kill seedlings. #
!
Siberian Elm (Ulmus pumila) on Wisconsin Dept. of
National Resources at link:
http://dnr.wi.gov/invasives/fact/elm.htm
Siberian Elm / Ulmus pumila, Troublesome Weeds of New
Mexico, by Mark Renz and Frank Sholedice, NMSU
2006
Siberian Elm on Invasive.org at Center for Invasive Species
& Ecosystems Health at link:
http://www.invasive.org/browse/subinfo.cfm?sub=3479
Siberian Elm on Least Wanted: Plant Conversation Alliance
at link: http://www.nps.gov/plants/alien/fact/ulpu1.htm
Siberian Elm Plant Fact Sheet, USDA Natural Resources
Conservation Service, at link:
http://plants.usda.gov/factsheet/pdf/fs_ulpu.pdf
Siberian Elm Plant Guide, USDA Natural Resources
Conservation Service, at link:
http://plants.usda.gov/plantguide/pdf/cs_ulpu.pdf
Ulmus Pumila on Wikipedia at link:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ulmus_pumila
Copies of the Siberian Elm USDA Plant Fact Sheet
and USDA Plant Guide are available at the
MG Hotline Library!
Page 16
Inspiring!New!Book!Releases!
(
Provided(by(Jacque(Meinecke,(Owner(of(Enchanted(Gardens(Nursery(
The!Timber!Press!Guide!to!Succulent!Plants!of!the!World:!A!
Comprehensive!Reference!to!More!Than!2000!Species,!by!
Fred!Dortort,!Timber!Press,!2011!
Comments:!Plants!presented!by!species!with!many!color!
photographs!
(
(
Succulent!Container!Gardens:!Design!EyeGCatching!Displays!
with!350!Easy!Care!Plants,!by!Debra!Lee!Baldwin,!Timber!
Press,!2010!
Comments:!Approaches!succulent!container!planting!from!a!
design!perspective!from!pot!selection!and!color!combinations!
to!care!and!propagation.!
(
(
Vertical!Vegetables!&!Fruit:!Creative!Gardening!
Techniques!for!Growing!Up!in!Small!Spaces,!by!Rhonda!
Massingham!Hart,!Storey!Publishing,!2011.!
Comments:!Author!offers!many!large,!small!simple!to!
inexpensive!methods!for!growing!a!vegetable!garden!up.!
((
(
One!Magic!Square:!The!Easy,!Organic!Way!to!Grow!Your!
Own!Food!on!a!3GFoot!Square!Plot,!by!Lolo!Houbein,!
Workman!Publishing,!2010!
Comments:!This!book!emphasizes!sustainable!and!selfE
sufficient!growing!in!a!raised!bed!square.!Quite!different!from!
the!Classic!Square!Foot!Gardening.!!Offers!dozens!of!ideas!for!
Magic!Square!Plots!from!salad,!soup!to!summer!stirEfry.!
(
Article(Continues(on(Page(17(
Page 17
Inspiring(New(Book(ReleasesGGContinued(
(
Continuous!Container!Gardens:!Swap!in!the!Plants!of!the!
Season!to!Create!Fresh!Designs!Year!Round,!by!Sara!Begg!
Townsend!&!Roanne!Robbins,!Storey!Publishing,!2010!
Comments:!This!book!offers!an!approach!to!four!season!container!
gardening,!including!plant!selection,!and!caring!for!the!container.!
Then!the!authors!offer!samples!of!12!containers!through!the!year.!
(
(
Handmade!Garden!Projects:!Step!By!Step!Instructions!for!
Creative!Garden!Features,!Containers,!Lighting!and!More,!
by!Loren!Edwards!Forkner,!Timber!Press,!2011!
Comments:!Interesting!and!playful!ideas!for!creating!garden!
projects!from!found!objects.!Organized!by!area!from!floors!to!
trellises!to!features!and!containers.!
(
(
Concrete!Garden!Projects:!Easy!and!Inexpensive!
Containers,!Furniture,!Water!Features!and!More,!by!Malin!
Nisson!and!Camilla!Arvidsson,!Timber!Press,!2011!
Comments:!Excellent!close!up!photos!of!completed!projects!
with!some!guiding!tips!for!creating!the!project.!Not!a!step!by!
step!approach,!but!more!of!an!inspirational!guide!for!making!
objects!with!concrete.!
(
(
The!New!LowGMaintenance!Garden:!How!To!Have!a!
Beautiful,!Productive!Garden!and!the!Time!To!Enjoy!It,!by!
Valery!Easton,!Timber!Press,!2009!
Comments:!This!book!emphasizes!a!philosophy!for!gardening!
with!good!advice!for!designing!a!lowEmaintenance!space!
while!still!maintaining!the!beauty!of!a!garden.!
!
(
(
(
!
VEGGIES: A To Z
Page 18
There are two terms that are especially important
when planting seeds that you should look for:
…Scarification, this term applies to seeds that have a
very hard outer coating. You need to nick or break the
outer covering so that moisture can penetrate and
germination can begin. This is usually accomplished by
using a sharp knife or sand paper to penetrate the outer
coating. If this procedure is not followed on seeds that
require it you will have a very low or zero germination
rate.
…Stratification, this term means the seeds need to be
exposed to a period of cold for a set amount of time. This
term usually applies to perennials and biennials. If the
seeds are not given a cold period, again you will have a
zero or very low germination rate.
These terms will be listed on any package of seeds
that requires either of these procedures for germination.
Harvesting information will sometimes be listed as well
as how to best store that particular crop.
Deciphering Information on Seed Packets
There are many vegetables, herbs, and flowers that you can grow easily from
seed. If you want to start with seed, the information provided on the seed packet
can be a big help. Beyond the picture on the front of the packet that can clue you
in to plant type and color, there is other useful growing information included on
your seed packaging:
…Plant Description Plant height at maturity, harvest/bloom time, habit (i.e.
climbing, upright)
…Uses
Recommendations for use in container, beds, trellises
…Number of Seeds Helps you determine how many packets to buy
…Date
The year seeds were packaged is important information
because as seeds age their viability decreases
…Planting Directions Recommended planting time, depth, spacing, light
exposure, and care
…Cold Hardiness Zone for Perennials
(Source: On Lehigh Valley Master Gardeners Website, March 6, 2009)
On Dave’s Garden’s Webpage, Paul Rodman, instructs us about what all the
information on seed packets means:
On the front of the pack you will be given the common plant name, plus the
specific variety or cultivar. Usually on flowers you will also be given the botanical
name. The maturity date will be given in days. For example on a lettuce pack, it
will grow to baby size in 28 days and fully mature in 52 days. These are excellent
guidelines if you intend to plant seeds so that they will mature in succession. This
is especially important for market growers who need to have a steady supply of
produce. The number of seeds in the package will be listed along with the sell-by
date.
Cultural information includes the following:
…GerminationTemperature. If starting seed indoors you can control the
temperature of the heat mat or whatever source of heat that you are using to
ensure maximum germination.
…Planting Depth. The depth that the seeds need to be planted. Some seeds
require light to germinate so you just need to lay them on the soil surface and not
cover them with anything. Some require total darkness so that you need to cover
the planting container so that no light is available until the seeds germinate.
!
A couple of other final notes about the information
provided in seed catalogs. Market growers and those
preserving food need to know what yields to expect for
canning or preserving. Tables are usually found in the
seed company catalogs. Let's take green beans for
example. A 100-foot-row of bush beans will require a
half-pound of seed and will yield approximately 80
pounds of beans. This will give you some idea on how
much seed to buy and also how much to plant to produce
the desired quantity of crops.
If you’re planning to can or preserve your harvest, also
check your Ball Blue Book as it contains a garden
planning guide. It gives you the amount to plant in order
to have a specific amount to preserve. Again I’ll use
green beans; Ball's guidelines state that a 100-foot-row
will give you approximately 30 quarts of processed green
beans.
That’s it in a nutshell: be sure to read the seed packets
in order to determine how, when, and how much to plant
to ensure a bountiful harvest from your gardens. Stay
away from brands that have no planting or cultural
information on the packet.
Good planting and a fruitful harvest!
Page 19
!
!
2012 New Mexico
Master Gardener
Conference
—Las Cruces, June 7-8, 2012—
Our Conference now has a Facebook
page! Updates and information will be
posted there as they become available. The
Planning Committee decided to try a free
Facebook page instead of paying for a
website.
Here's the link:
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Doña-AnaCo-Master-Gardeners/111217812302104
This page should be accessible to
everyone.
Please let Sylvia know if you're having
trouble. Sylvia’s email is:
[email protected]
MASTER GARDENER INTERNS—Eric & Solange Graham
The Grahams bring their special talents to our Master Gardener Program.
Eric and Solange Graham found their way to New Mexico after a decade in
Cleveland, Ohio, which had long been Solange’s home. They are quick to
describe themselves as atypical gardeners. According to Eric, while they
lived in the Cleveland area they did occasional lawn mowing and planted an
average of 1 plant / year with a mortality rate of 50%.
About two years ago, they decided to abandon eastern suburban life and
explore the West that had caught Eric’s attention years before. After
exploring Arizona and New Mexico, they found a perfect spot to begin the
next adventure of their lives.
Now they live on 30 acres north of Columbus, NM, on property that
formerly belonged to two Luna County Master Gardeners who had crafted a
garden over their three decades on this property. Feeling a commitment to
maintain this garden with its 150 rose bushes inspired Eric and Solange to
sign up for last year’s Master Gardener course. Their goal was to acquire
the skills needed to keep this garden alive and thriving.
In previous phases of their lives, Eric has worked as an astronomer and
computer scientist. Solange managed a computerized embroidery
business for many years and does freelance transcription. They can't
decide whether or not they are retired.
Now that the Grahams are interns in the Master Gardener Program, Eric
put his computer skills to work immediately and created the new online
program to assist all Master Gardeners in recording their volunteer hours
and Solange is transcribing the monthly MG meeting notes. No doubt they
will find many other ways to apply their talents for the betterment of the
Doña Ana Extension Master Gardener Program.
According to the Grahams, “Eric's interests include making telescopes
and other mechanical and electronic things. Solange is still searching for a
craft that fits her personality. We are both active naturists and helped
organize a nudist club in Cleveland.”
Profile Provided by Ann Palormo, Certified MG
Conference Attendees:
Only individuals who are Certified Master
Gardeners or Naturalists (MG/MN) or are
currently enrolled and working toward
certification in a New Mexico, Texas, or
Arizona MG/MN Cooperative Extension
Program are eligible to attend this
Conference.
The Conference is not open to the general
public. Also, seating will not be available for
spouses, other family members or friends.
Service animals are welcome, but not pets
are allowed.!
!
!
Page 20
—Monthly Meeting, February 8, 2012—
! Welcome— Jeff Anderson passed out name tags for newly Certified MG’s: Bonnie Hosie, Sharon Cunningham, Mary Andrews,
Sylvia Hacker, Roseanne Weeks, Marjie Snell, Maryann Pribillo, John Nelson, Jana Melvin and Jill Klann. Jeff stated that the in-service
went really well in Albuquerque.
! Committee/Project Reports
MG Hotline—(Sylvia Hacker) Two new books have been donated to the Hotline Library: Abiotic Disorder Book and Common Sense Guide
to Pest Control. Please do not use the Hotline office for a dumping ground for old magazines, cardboard boxes.
Service Hours—(Pamela Crane) Pamela passed out instructions for logging our volunteer hours online. She thanked Eric Graham for
developing our online recording system. She reviewed the instructions on logging in online and recording hours. Last page of handout,
there’s the dropdown menu for reference. Ina Goldberg served as “guinea pig” and was able to do the whole process with minimal
difficulty. Per Eric, the Program should work on Smartphones, on the Mac and other browsers such as Safari. All hours are pending to be
reviewed by Pam for approval. Pam will scan for reasonableness and any bizarre issues. October 1, 2011 will be the starting date for
entering information. Questions should be sent to [email protected]. Tally will show hotline hours separately from regular hours. Applause
for Eric and he thanked Dael Goodman, Pam Crane, Ina, Mary Thompson, and Solange Graham for their help for testing this new Program.
MG Newsletter—(Ann Shine-Ring) There will be a magazine out later this month. The delay is due to some computer problems Ann
encountered installing an updated MS Office Suite and a new iMac Operating System. The February MG Magazine will feature the second
part of an article on Mesquites and Palo Verdes. Another article will provide info on how to create rock gardens. Other articles include
Blanketflowers and the Weed & Invasive Species article will be on Giant Cane that is now being used for biomass for cattle, and for paper
stock. In the future, all MG Magazine mastheads will list Jeff as Administrator of the MG Program. It was suggested that the NMSU Master
Gardner website should show new photos of Jeff and not John White, former Ag Agent. Jeff stated that soon all Ag Agents of each county
will be featured on the website. The Magazine will be out by this weekend. In the interim, Ann made hard copies of the January MG
Monthly Meeting Minutes to hand out. Ann thanked Bonnie Eisenberg for doing an excellent job on our meeting minutes in the past. She
also thanked Solange, our new notetaker, for doing a thorough job on our minutes. Ann also stated that our monthly meeting time has been
extended to and approved for 9:15 to 11:45 per Jeff.
Lunch & Learn Presentation—(Sylvia Hacker) Next Thursday’s presentation will be on Growing Citrus in Doña Ana County and Jeff
Anderson will be the speaker. Next month our presentation will be on the NMSU Demonstration Garden. The Lunch & Learn Presentation is
always held on third Thursday of the month at noon at the Branigan Library in the Roadrunner Room upstairs.
Finance Committee—(Mary Thompson) No report
2012 MG Statewide Conference—(Russ Boor)
1. Russ thanked everyone on the Planning Committee for all their help. The Conference Packet is ready to go and will be published on
Valentine’s Day.
2. Sylvia – The classes are almost done. Dr. Goldberg and Sylvia are negotiating another pathology lab tour. Doña Ana County people
will not be able to do the tour because there’ll be a separate tour for us at another time. Author Greg Star will bring his newly published
book on agaves. The speaker on bees, wasps, and ants practices “Darwinian victory gardening” or whatever survives in his yard.
Other speakers will be park rangers, master naturalists, two MG’s giving presentations.
3. Mona (Silent auction and door prizes). Trying to prevent redundancies with ads, etc. Businesses donating over $50 value will receive a
free ad in the Program. Mona needs to know about door prizes and what will be contributed. She prefers to have nicer door prizes but
fewer of them. Danise at the Chile Institute will create a nice basket for a donation. Thursday and Friday mornings will be when door
prizes are given out. Minimum value of $50 for silent auction items, under $50 for door prizes. Silent auction will be set up Thursday at
Gerald Thomas Hall and then will be moved to the Farm and Ranch Museum to be finished up that night at the end of the banquet.
Silent Auction is only on Thursday.
4. Dixie stated that people other counties have been invited including El Paso MG’s.
5. Mona sent around a form around for advertising. Check list to make sure someone hasn’t already been contacted. List of people
contacted will be under the light switch in the MG Office. Money goes into the MG General Fund.
6. Russ – The conference is only for MG’s in Arizona, New Mexico and Texas. The banquet is opened to guests of MG’ for a separate
charge of $30. Caterers will be the Dickerson Group. Register for banquet at same time as Conference registration--$65 includes both.
7. Sylvia – Facebook has changed their format. Sylvia is working out the kinks. Maximum number attending Conference will be about 125
in classes based on what Albuquerque had at their Conference two years ago. Classrooms can handle about 75 to 100 people.
Community Garden—(Darrol Shillingburg) Mark Johnston said the five-foot fence for garden will be paid for by the City and is on order.
Soil sample came back with a problem--electrical conductivity is at 6.81 while previously it was under 2.0. Salinity issue probably due to
biosolids. Edibles aren’t going to grow well or at all. Mark Johnston said he would try to fix the problem. The City’s yard waste compost
will be added to soil to lower the salinity and some flooding will be done to purge the salinity. How to deal with slightly saline soils will be
incorporated into workshops. Three outlines have been developed for three workshops for the Gomez Garden Group. Russ has live plants
growing in his greenhouse as well as Darrol. The fence needs to be installed and the soil salinity must be reduced by the first two weeks in
March. If we don’t meet this window, cool season gardening might be dropped to tomatoes and a Three Sisters bed.
Continues on Page 21
!!
Page 21
—Continued From Page 20—
! Committee/Project Reports-Continued
• Farmers’ Market—(Dixie LaRock & Barb Sallach) Jeff indicated that Dixie and Barbara have been doing the Farmer’s Market Booth for a long
time. They would like to retire and need volunteers to take over the position. Dixie explained procedure for setting up booth. Get down to
farmer’s market one hour before it opens and set up table with literature. The volunteer essentially answers inquiries about seasonal
questions, etc. Dixie said it’s a lot of fun but also a lot of work dragging of equipment back and forth to the booth. Eric Montgomery is
Program Coordinator for City of Las Cruces. Call him for the non-profit group side space. Call two months in advance call to secure
reservations. Ann Palormo agreed to take over in May 2012. Kelly Covert will assist her.
• Plant Sale—(Dixie) To be held on Saturday, April 14th. Need help from 11:00 to 1:00. Would like a volunteer to lend them a wheelbarrow.
Need a board for smaller plants. UTEP Native Plant will be held on April 28 and 29.
• First Detectors’ Training, March 1—(Sylvia) If you didn’t get an email confirmation, contact Sylvia to make sure you’re on the list of
registered people.
! NEW Business
• Chile Conference-Salsa Contest, Feb. 6—(Myles Munoz & Val Fernandez) There were 8 entries and it was great fun. There were three
categories of salsas: Red, green and fruit. Winners were Russ Boor for the green, Myles won the green and Jeff won the fruit salsa. Mona
requested copies of the winning recipes. Next year we’d like to have even more entries.
• High on the Desert Conference, Feb. 16 & 17, Sierra Vista, AZ— Pam planned on attending.
• Pecan Conference, March 4, 5, 6, 2012 Myles needs a few people to sell caps, hats on each day they’re there. Pecan Food Fantasy is on
Sunday, the 4th and need people who can check people in. Need at least six people needed but no more than 8 March 4th Sunday. 8:30 to
1:00 (6 people) checking in entries, putting them on the table. 2:00 to 6:00 in afternoon (8 people) for cutting up pies and. March 5th and 6th
Myles will work and translate at the registration table. Jeff mentioned this past year’s pecan crop was down due to the freeze.
• Home & Garden Show, March 10 & 11, 2012 (Maryann Pribillo & Sylva) Maryann got us a nice spot within 24 feet of main entrance of
Convention Center. Sylvia getting presenters. Publications need to be printed for the table. Setting up on Friday the 9th and Mary Thompson
will have signup sheets for volunteers. Hope Movsesian will decorate our table. Speakers every hour starting at 10:00 until 3:00. Still need
people for help. Last year we had 7,000 people. Over 900 contacts recorded.
• Water Festival, March 15 in Las Cruces Nearly 1,000 children will be attending. We have a booth explaining agriculture and water in a short
time. Need volunteers--about four people. Will be in Las Cruces at Young Park, time unknown, probably in the morning around 8 to 12:00.
• Senior Expo, March 24-25 (Sylvia) We’ll be in the same place as Home and Garden show. We’ll have two rooms. Need volunteers for set up.
Sign up sheets at next meeting. March 23rd is set up at Convention Center.
• Kids, Kows & More, March 27, 28, 29 (Juliet) This event has been postponed until May because of a conflict with school testing.
• Hotline Contact Sheets (Joan Lane) Volunteers are asked to please print on contact sheets because of illegible handwriting and also please
indicate city where contact was calling form.
• Computer Viruses (Jeff) He discussed the problem we’ve had with inappropriate downloads from the Internet by possibly Hotline volunteers
because viruses are getting into the computers. He stated that access to the computers is also provided as a public service to people who
want to use these computers. Ann suggested that additional security measures be taken such as changing passwords and user ID’s more
often.
! EDUCATIONAL PRESENTATION: Video: Ladybird Johnson’s Wildflower Center (second half of the video shown this month)
A special thank you to Linda Morgan who transcribed the information contained in this DVD.
Snacks -- Thanks to Colette Bullock, Mary Andrews and Linda Schukei for our delicious snacks today.
Next month, Dick Hiss, Dixie LaRock, and Dael Goodman will be our snack providers.
Next Meeting: Wednesday, March 14, 2012 in the Roadrunner Room at the Branigan Library
Our new meeting time is now 9:15am to 11:45am
!!!
Page 22
IMPORTANT: Please remember to be present on your assigned date for the Hotline. If another MG forgets, please give him or her a
“reminder” call. Be sure to get a copy of the Subs List, for your information.
Congratulations to all our new MG Interns and to the Interns that are now Certified MGs! Welcome aboard!
Hotline Changes: Effective this year, our Hotline hours will be from 9:00-1:00 all year long. They will no longer drop back to
12:00 during the winter.
The assignments listed below were current as of March 1, 2012!
MG Hotline Assignments for March 2012
Friday, Mar. 2
MG Hotline Assignments for April 2012
David Hutchinson Certified MG
Lynn Byrant
Intern
Sherman Levenson Intern
Tuesday, Mar. 6 Dale Petzold
Dick Hiss
Solange Graham
Eric Graham
Certified MG
Certified MG
Intern
Intern
Friday, Mar. 9
Certified MG
Certified MG
Intern
Intern
B. G. Hosie
Linda Morgan
Greg Kopp
Dael Goodman
Tuesday, Mar. 13 Sylvia Hacker
Nancy DeLouise
Dorian Dodson
Certified MG
Certified MG
Intern
Intern
Friday, Mar. 16
Certified MG
Certified MG
Intern
Intern
Linda Morgan
Al Krueger
Tuesday, Mar. 20 Mike Lee
Janie Elliot
George Pouy
Linda Mullins
Certified MG
Certified MG
Intern
Intern
Friday, Mar. 23
Certified MG
Certified MG
Intern
Intern
David Hutchinson
Jana Melvin
Tuesday, Mar. 27 Janie Elliot
Sue Styer
Helen Borchardt
Certified MG
Certified MG
Intern
Intern
Sara Flores
Certified MG
Certified MG
Intern
Intern
Friday, Mar. 30
Tuesday, April 3 Bonnie Eisenberg
Solange Graham
Eric Graham
Friday, April 6
Good Friday-Closed
Tuesday, April 10
Friday, April 13
Dorian Dodson
Bonnie Crotsenburg
Certified MG
Certified MG
Intern
Intern
B.G. Hosie
Nancy DeLouise
Dwight Eggers
Al Krueger
Certified MG
Certified MG
Intern
Intern
Tuesday, April 17 Dale Petzold
William Little
Friday, April 20
Linda Morgan
Lynn Bryant
Sherman Levenson
Sue Styer
Helen Borchardt
Certified MG
Certified MG
Intern
Intern
Linda Morgan
Sara Flores
Debra Tallent
!
Certified MG
Certified MG
Intern
Intern
Certified MG
Certified MG
Intern
Intern
Tuesday, April 24
Friday, April 27
Certified MG
Certified MG
Intern
Intern
Certified MG
Certified MG
Intern
Intern

March 2012 - Darrol Shillingburg

Transcription

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