The Islands - The HEB Magazine

Transcription

HEB
The |
Issue Fifteen | 2016
For people who love the Hebrides
| magazine
NOW
FREE!
PLUS
Outer Hebrides
roadmaps
| Pages 70 & 71
The great outdoors… Accommodation
Activities on sea
in the Outer Hebrides
and land throughout
the Islands
| Pages 39-49
Some places to stay down
the Islands
| Pages 62-69
1
tucked away in
Grosebay,
only 6 miles
from the
ferry
in
Tarbert...
Tel: 01859 511108
2
HEB
www.harristweedco.co.uk
| Issue 15 | 2016
Hello!
Loch Seaforth, on the border of Lewis and Harris,
with the Fisherman’s Cottage at Aline. Photograph by Iain A. MacSween
Welcome to The HEB Magazine 2016, your eye on the Outer Hebrides.
Inside, you’ll find features on the local shops and art galleries, and where
to buy local produce, as well as information on adventures you can look
forward to in your time in the Outer Hebrides.
For visitors, who have found that they can’t get 3G in some areas, there
are road maps of the islands, to help you find what you’re looking for.
And there’s also www.magazinehebrides.com, hosting articles, photos
and information contained in The HEB Magazine, and also providing
free downloads of the magazine!
Happy exploring, and best wishes from the team who created the 15th
issue of HEB Magazine.
Contents
04
07
12
15
16
23
24
26
27
29
30
Island pride in the Harris Tweed
renaissance
The Orb shines brighter over world
for Harris Tweed
New base in town for tweed products
exporter
32
34
35
Borgh Pottery…tradition reborn
39
Smokehouse becomes shop window
for Isles
43
Stornoway…a university town
Craft-venture couple take over
former post office
20 years of Cèolas…and many more
to come
Knitting…a unique Eriskay tradition
Soapmaking proves a natural route
for Linda
Hotel looks back at history that
started with a school
44
45
48
50
52
54
56
Honours for publishers as
books win approval
Success story of a reluctant
performer
Bakery brothers take three
roles in Island food trail
Enjoying the Islands…
by land and sea
Writers for the 15th edition of The HEB Magazine
include Eilidh Whiteford, Katie Macleod, Fred Silver, and
Iain A MacSween. Photographs are by Roz Skinner, Iain
A MacSween, Eilidh Whiteford and Fred Silver. We also
thank those many people throughout the Islands who
help us put together this unique magazine.
Cover photograph of Northton Saltings by Darren Cole.
Hebscape Gallery. Ardhasaig. Isle of Harris.
www.hebscapegallery.co.uk
This image is copyright to Darren Cole and
used with permission.
The HEB Magazine
Intermedia Services
Offices 1-3 Clinton’s Yard, Rigs Road
Stornoway HS1 2RF
01851 705743
e-mail: [email protected]
www.magazinehebrides.com
The HEB Magazine is designed and printed by
Scottish Provincial Press, New Century House,
Stadium Road, Inverness IV1 1FG
ISSN-1477-1950
St Kilda is target for
Seumas’ new boat
Gordon takes to the waves with new
boat service
Linking the islands by sea
The challenge of St Kilda
Keeping beauty as a wonderful
memory…
Café with art and vistas…
Landscape and light inspire Anthony
Challenge for Gaelic and broadcasting
57
58
Showcase weeks for Uist artists
60
The Maciver and Morrison era at
Cunard Line
62
64
Uig Lodge - location location, location!
68
70
Leumadair… a working croft
Precious keepsake returns to family
hands after 100 years
Luxury holiday houses in the Outer
Hebrides
Route maps of the islands
3
Island prIde
in the Harris Tweed
renaissance
As visitors to Lewis and Harris will easily learn,
there is a lot of local pride in the renaissance of
Harris Tweed. This is the one industry which is
utterly unique to these islands – a status that is
underpinned by an Act of Parliament.
To be the genuine article, according to the Harris
Tweed Act which was updated and reinforced at
Westminster in 1993, the fabled fabric must be
made from pure virgin wool, handwoven at the
home of the weaver in the Outer Hebrides of
Scotland. The woven tweed is then returned to
the mill where it is authenticated by a stamper
with the Orb trade mark.
The stamper is employed by the Harris Tweed
Authority which exists, under the Act, to protect
the trademark and safeguard the integrity of the
product. The Harris Tweed Orb is the oldest
British trademark in continuous use, dating
back for more than a century. This is indeed an
industry which has a long and distinguished story
to tell.
A decade ago, Harris Tweed was in the
doldrums. It had forgotten how to tell that story
to the world. The North American market,
on which Harris Tweed was highly dependent
for more than half a century, had diminished in
the face of competition from man-made fabrics.
There had been too little diversification away
from the traditional mainstay of using Harris
Tweed to make men’s jackets and little else.
Harris Tweed Hebrides was established in 2007
and took over a derelict mill at Shawbost on the
west side of Lewis. This was a time of sharp
decline for the industry and there was a real
danger of precious skills being lost. But the new
company never doubted that the Harris Tweed
name remained strong around the world among
people who knew anything about textiles. With
investment and good marketing, a revival was
perfectly possible – and that is exactly what has
happened.
4
In 2015, production reached its highest level
for 20 years with Harris Tweed Hebrides
accounting for around three-quarters of output.
The company now employs 90 people at
Shawbost and provides round-the-year work for
150 home-based weavers, a huge contribution
HEB
to the local economy. Once again, the looms
are clicking merrily from morning to night in
order to meet demand from over 60 countries.
Much of the company’s success has been based
on repositioning the image of Harris Tweed and
directing it towards a younger, fashion-conscious
market. Wearing well-cut Harris Tweed is highly
fashionable for both men and women. Last year,
the Harris Tweed Hebrides client list ranged
from Chanel to Vivienne Westwood and from
J Crew to Zegna. It also works regularly with a
number of leading UK based designers including,
Nigel Cabourn, Margaret Howell, Hackett,
and Scottish designer Elizabeth Martin. Where
brands like these lead, many others follow.
There has been a major diversification of end
uses in recent years. Alongside men’s and
women’s fashion, there is also a huge range of
accessories. Even your pets can now join in the
Harris Tweed trend! Another big growth area
has been interior design. Harris Tweed is an
excellent fabric for furnishings and Harris Tweed
Hebrides has developed a particularly successful
partnership with Tetrad, a high quality furniture
maker in Preston, Lancashire.
While the Harris Tweed Hebrides business is
mainly about selling fabric to a wide range of
customers who do lots of interesting things with
it, the company is also very proud of its flagship
retail store in Stornoway which sells an excellent
selection of high quality Harris Tweed products.
And, of course, you can also buy lengths of our
famous fabric, ready for your own bespoke use.
The shop is located in the centre of Stornoway.
Continued on page 4
| Issue 15 | 2016
WOVEN
BY HAND
INTHE
OUTER HEBRIDES
25 North Beach
Stornoway
Isle of Lewis
Scotland
HS1 2XQ
t: 01851 700046
Dan Crossley - Spinning, HTH
OF SCOTLAND
www.harristweedhebrides.com
5
Then there is an important new Harris Tweed outlet as
you head south on the M6, just off the Penrith Junction.
Located at the Rheged Centre, Harris Tweed Hebrides
have teamed up with The Westmorland Family to
offer the finest Harris Tweed fabric and high quality
accessories as part of their newly opened Harris Tweed
shop. You can also see their Harris Tweed collection
at their other outlets including Tebay Services and
Gloucester Services – definitely worth a stop.
As a busy manufacturing mill all public access is limited
and unfortunately HTH are currently unable to offer
any mill tours. But the helpful and knowledgeable
staff in the Stornoway shop will be only too happy
to provide you with more information about the
production processes at the mill, the fabric patterns
and its provenance. There is an excellent short video
which summarises the fascinating Harris Tweed history
and process.
But really, the Harris Tweed story is primarily about
its home here in the Outer Hebrides. It’s something
worth learning more about during your visit because it
is not only critical to the local economy but also reflects
the wonderful landscape around you. That is what
has always inspired the depth of colour and intricacy of
patterns.
The name of Harris Tweed Hebrides also features
prominently on Scotland’s premier shopping street
for visitors from
around the world
– the Royal Mile
in Edinburgh.
The company
has teamed up
with a leading
retailer, House
of Edinburgh, to
create a store which
specialises in Harris
Tweed products
using only fabric
from the Shawbost
Mill. You will find
it near the top of
the Royal Mile
as you approach
| Harris Tweed makes a splash at the Rheged Centre
Edinburgh Castle
in Cumbria
(495 Lawnmarket).
EN FUL
12 S LY
- 1 ED
1p BA
m R
harris Tweed…
Continued from page 4
O O D A S P EC I
ALIT
Y
BOOKING
ESSENTIAL
LIC
LO
S EA F
L
A
C
Thus, the Harris Tweed you take away on the ferry or
plane will not only offer years of practical use – but will
always remind you of the fabulous setting from which
it comes.
FA
M
OU
S FI
SH &
CHIPS & AMAZ
A
E
S
ING
V
S
W
IE
Open 12 - 9pm Monday - Saturday The Anchorage Restaurant, The Pier, Leverburgh, Isle of Harris HS5 3UB
In Leverburgh at the centre of the Western Isles
Telephone: 01859 520225
6
HEB
| Issue 15 | 2016
The orb shines brighter
over world for
Harris Tweed
by | Eilidh Whiteford
The origin of Harris Tweed – the cloth made
from virgin wool dyed, spun and hand-woven
by islanders in the Outer Hebrides – is famous
around the world. And the tradition cannot be
escaped at the Harris Tweed Isle of Harris store
in Tarbert, owned and operated by the third
generation of the Campbell family of weavers.
Open 9am to 5.30pm, Monday to Saturday,
the shop is something of an Aladdin’s cave of
Harris Tweed and Hebridean wool items with
a plethora of tweed items from a variety of coat
and jacket styles, to Harris Tweed boots and
shoes, bags, accessories and gifts.
Across from the shop there’s another hidden
gem as the Harris Tweed Isle of Harris
Tweed store is stocked with a large choice
of tweed both traditional
and modern, presenting a
rainbow of colours, in checks,
plain, tartan, herringbone,
overchecks and houndstooth
patterns, with a Hattersley
loom in the background.
The Tarbert store opened
in 2008, when present day owner Catherine
Campbell occupied the old Tarbert Co-op store
and located the Tweed business there.
Catherine was also instrumental in establishing
Clò Mòr – a dedicated exhibition of Harris
Tweed housed in a specially built centre at
Drinishader in Harris, together with Marion
Campbell’s exhibition, local artefacts and Harris
Tweed and Knitwear shop next door in the Old
Drinishader Primary School.
4 Star Award Winning
The Campbell’s connection with the island cloth
began with Marion Campbell, BEM (1910-1996)
– remembered as an icon of Harris Tweed.
Marion first sat at a loom aged fourteen and before
she turned 21 years of age, the young weaver had
beat off older, more experienced weavers to win a
Harris Tweed Association design competition.
With a natural gift for colour and design,
Marion rose to prominence as an exemplar of the
Harris Tweed craft; and she continued to weave
in the traditional manner well into her late 80s.
Continued on page 8
Boutique Hotel
Hotel Hebrides
is a is
four
star award
winning
boutique
hotel in the
Outer
Hebrides.
Centrally
situated, and
Hotel
Hebrides
a four
star award
winning
boutique
hotel
in the
Outer
Hebrides.
close to all of our beautiful beaches, our hotel could not be better placed for the enjoyment of all our islands
We
have 21 high quality contemporary bedrooms which offer a number of carefully
have to offer.
considered
touches. These include free high speed Internet access, luxury Highland
Hotel Hebrides has 21 quality, contemporary bedrooms which offer a high standard of quality combined
Soap
Conotch
products,
pocket
mattresses
sumptuous
thick
bath robes.
with top
technology.
Everysprung
bedroom
at the hoteland
is unique,
laden with
delightful
considerate touches
such Pierhouse
as our rangeSeafood
of luxury Restaurant
Highland Soap
which are has
made
using natural
produceoffrom
The
atproducts
Hotel Hebrides
become
a highlight
the the Isle
of Lewis, top quality pocket sprung mattresses and sumptuous thick bath sheets and robes for your added
Outer
Hebridean
experience
and
we
pride
ourselves
in
sourcing
the
finest
fresh
comfort. There is free wifi in every room, freeview TV and many deluxe rooms have ipod dockinglocal
stations.
seafood,
from hand dived West Harris Scallops to South Harris Lobster. Our restaurant
Thanks to our insistence of serving superbly cooked Scottish food, using painstakingly sourced local
overlooks
harbour
and we
a creative
modern
menu
with light
and healthy
produce, thethe
Pierhouse
Restaurant
hasoffer
become
a highlight
of the Outer
Hebridean
experience.
The Pierhouse
is a relaxed
informal
restaurant
offer
creative
modernfor.
menu,
top
options
where
gluten
free, overlooking
vegetarianthe
andharbour.
vegan We
diets
area well
catered
Weincluding
are open
organicday
produce
and light and
healthy
every
for breakfast,
lunch
andoptions.
dinner.We are open every day for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
is widely regarded that at the heart of a good hotel lies a great bar and Hotel Hebrides will not disappoint.
ItItThe
is Mote
widely
regarded
thataatgreat
the selection
heart ofofa Scotch
good hotel
a great rustic
bar and
Hebrides
Lounge
Bar offers
whisky,lies
delectable,
bar Hotel
food and
a brilliant
will
disappoint.
The
Mote Lounge
Bar offers a great selection of Scotch whisky,
buzz.not
There
is also regular
traditional
live music.
delectable
fresh -rustic
Food served 12pm
9pm bar food and a brilliant buzz. There is also regular live music.
Hotel Hebrides . Pier Road . Tarbert . Isle of Harris . HS3 3DG . Scotland . Tel: +44 (0)1859 502364
Fax:+44 (0)1859 502578 | E-mail: [email protected] | www.hotel-hebrides.com
7
designers and crafts
people around the globe.
Catherine said:
“Everybody’s ancestors
from all over the Islands,
from the days of the dye
pot to waulking of the
tweeds, worked long
and hard and would
be very proud to see
that Harris Tweed is
excelled around the
world and has really
become a major
fashionable material.
Marion’s nephew – Alasdair ‘Mor’ Campbell
(1924-1995) – shared his auntie’s eye for design
and, along with his wife Katie, enjoyed running
the original Harris Tweed and Knitwear shop,
often holding weaving displays for visitors and
bus tours.
Alasdair’s wife Katie Campbell (1935-2011)
not only continued to run the family business,
along with daughter Catherine, but her talent for
design brought Harris Tweed into the modern
era with Katie’s designs still a favourite with
“It’s everywhere
and receives a lot of
recognition, which it so rightly deserves.”
The history of Harris Tweed can be explored
further at the Clò Mòr exhibition centre
in Drinishader. The story of Harris Tweed
throughout the ages – and the Campbell’s
connection to the cloth – is told through a
unique display of old and new photographs
and artefacts; including a display of designer
tweed outfits which have graced catwalks
across the globe.
Next door to the centre, in the Old
Drinishader Primary School, visitors can also
explore a smaller exhibition dedicated to Marion
Campbell, with her tweed and weaving items on
display and other local donated memorabilia.
And for all things Harris Tweed, the Harris
Tweed Isle of Harris shop in Tarbert is certainly
one stop-off not to be missed.
To find out more, please visit
www.harristweedisleofharris.co.uk
It’s everywhere and
receives a lot of
recognition, which it
so rightly deserves.
The history of
Harris Tweed can
be explored further
at the Clò Mòr
exhibition centre
in Drinishader.
| Harris Tweed Isle of Harris… the fabric store
8
HEB
| The main shop of Harris Tweed Isle of Harris in Tarbert
| Issue 15 | 2016
Harris Tweed Isle Of Harris
Caberfeidh, Tarbert
Isle Of Harris HS3 3DJ
Open Mon - Sat 9.00-5.30pm Tel: 01859 502040 / 01859 502505 www.harristweedisleofharris.co.uk
HARRIS TWEED ISLE OF HARRIS: Situated in
Tarbert, Harris at the far end of the bay near the
main junction A859. A large selection of Harris
Tweed Clothing for Ladies, Gents and Children.
Superb range of bags, hats, shoes, boots,
purses and many more accessories,
all in Harris Tweed.
We also have a large Tweed store opposite the
shop with exciting Tweeds to choose from as
well as yarn and wool. Coach Parties Welcome.
Tel: 01859 502040 / 502505.
Email: [email protected]
www.harristweedisleofharris.co.uk
9
Harris Tweed
and Knitwear
Situated 5 miles from Tarbert on the
Golden Road in the beautiful Bays of
Harris. Here in the village of Drinishader
at the Old School you will find a wide
range of Harris Tweed: Jackets, Coats,
Bags, Shoes, accessories, gifts, knitwear
and local knitting wool.
Come along and view the purpose built
Harris Tweed “Clo Mor” Exhibition.
Experience the past and present day
process of Harris Tweed. A unique display
of old and new pictures, artefacts,
present day designer productions and
a view of Marion Campbell’s exhibition.
Coach parties welcome, toilet facilities
available.
● Harris Tweed Hats
● Harris Tweed Jackets
& Coats ● Bags ● Shoes
● Accessories
● Harris Wool & Knitwear
Harris Tweed And Knitwear, Old School,
Drinishader, Isle Of Harris HS3 3DX
www.harristweedandknitwear.co.uk
Tel: 01859 511189
10
HEB
| Issue 15 | 2016
Contents | Editor’s Welcome
11
new base in town
for tweed products exporter
Filling a large corner of a listed
art deco building in James Street,
Stornoway, which was itself many
years ago a working Harris Tweed
mill, fashion and accessories
company Rarebird continues to put
its individual stamp on the worldfamous fabric.
Established by designer Paulette
Brough in 2007, and based in
Carloway since 2010, last year saw
Rarebird open its second workshop
and studio outlet at 1 Bells Road,
Stornoway.
“The new Stornoway workshop
and studio has worked really well
since we opened last year,” said
Paulette. “Being so close to the
ferry port, hotels and town centre it
has been a lot easier for people to
pop in for a look and to say hello,
and we are expecting even more
visitors this year.”
Paulette spent two decades in
clothing manufacture before
moving to the Western Isles and
starting Rarebird – named after
the elusive Corncrake, a small bird
found throughout the island chain.
“I’ve been sewing since I was a
child. My mum used to make most
of my clothes, I’d watch her, and
make dresses for my dolls with the
scraps of fabric left over,” she said.
“When I originally set up, it was
only supposed to be just me
making things to fund visiting my
relatives on the mainland, but
everything with Rarebird has just
grown since I did my first tradeshow in 2008 – and we now
employ four full time staff who have
been trained from scratch and are
now skilled at hand-making craft
pieces.”
Training and preserving traditional
skills is an important part of
Rarebird’s philosophy – Paulette
has just completed a Modern
Apprentice Assessors course
12 with Glasgow and Clyde College
HEB
| Issue 15 | 2016
after she was told there were no
assessors on the Island to help with
any apprenticeships.
And concentrating on handmade
quality and clean designs, Paulette’s
Harris Tweed accessories have
found homes the world over with
Rarebird products available in
over 50 shops and galleries across
Scotland and as far south as the
British Museum in London, as well
as several in the EU.
Rarebird has seen orders from
major department store Brooks
Brothers for its Madison Avenue
outlet in New York, USA; and
also Japan for showcase and sale
during the annual British Fair in the
Hankyu department
store in
Osaka.
Last year, the
Lewis-based
company’s
Japanese agent
also successfully introduced
Rarebird designs to the Mitsukoshi
department Store in Tokyo, and
will increase this to a further five
stores across Japan this year.
The future of Rarebird looks as
bright and multi-coloured as the
Harris Tweed used to make its
creations – from homeware and
clothing to accessories and gifts.
For 2016 there is a new range of
large Rarebird tote bags using a mix
of Harris Tweed, waxed cotton and
leather. The City Tote uses black
wax cotton while the Country
Tote has brown waxed cotton and
both have gone down well with
trade-show clients in Glasgow and
London; along with the unisex
zipped Messenger bag and comfy
snoods.
Rarebird are also expanding to
make Harris Tweed coats, jackets
and capes and will be enlarging the
studio shop to accommodate all
the new styles and a fitting room.
Paulette’s new designs will be
complemented by wool and
Cashmere products such as
cardigans, scarves, hats and gloves
from Irish company Aine and
dresses from Verisimilitude, created
by North Uist designer Madeleine
Ostling.
“The cardigans were designs that
I’d seen at trade-shows and I loved
the colours and quality,” Paulette
expanded. “And the dresses are
from a new designer working in
North Uist. I love her talent and
I’m happy to support her business
start-up.
“Everything we’ve brought for the
shop really complements the Harris
Tweed and I’m sure my customers
will agree.”
A range of jewellery from Scottish
makers Skaramanda, Katrina and
Angel Wire also features in the
shop alongside the new lines; and
Rarebird are also now making its
well-recognised unique ceramic
buttons, which feature on many of
its wares and are hand-made by the
company, available to buy individually
for the first time on the island.
Also being launched in 2016 is
the first of a series of textile print
designs, created exclusively for
Rarebird through collaboration with
the Centre for Advanced Textiles at
Glasgow School of Art.
Paulette
explained: “I
struggle to
find textiles
I like, in the
quantities that I
need, and then if
I find a print that
is suitable it gets
discontinued
quite quickly.
“So I decided to design my own
prints which are exclusive to
Rarebird, and I wanted the natural
colours and fauna of the Hebrides
to be part of my designs – rather
than just have a random flower or
abstract pattern.”
After meeting Interface Scotland,
which pairs companies with
universities for development
projects, Paulette visited the
Glasgow School of Art and last
summer Paul Roden from the
School travelled to the islands to
help Paulette work on designs. “It’s
been a great partnership and I had
a lot of help from Interface Scotland
and Paul Roden,” she said.
So for 2016 the first stunning
silk design exclusive to Rarebird
begins to adorn scarves and collars,
based upon the soft browns, silver
greys and vibrant yellow lichens
which are found on the islands
in abundance thanks to the clear
Western Isles air.
Paulette added: “I have a lots of
different ideas for designs, based
on the island landscape, lifestyle
and fauna; but I chose my lichen
inspired design to start with
because it was a mainstay of early
Harris Tweed weaving used by
crofters to dye the wool and finish
the Harris Tweed cloth.”
To find out more you can also take
a look around the Rarebird online
shop, on www.rarebirddesign.
co.uk
Rarebird Studio
Unit 1
Carloway
HS2 9AQ
Tel: 01851 643329
Rarebird
Rarebird Studio
1 Bells Road
Stornoway
HS1 2QT
Tel: 01851 709974
Harris Tweed Clothing Accessories and Gifts
Handmade on the premises available to buy direct from our studio shop
www.rarebirddesign.co.uk
Registered in Scotland SC487513
VAT Reg No: 156 2065 22
13
Borgh
Pottery
Borgh Pottery, Fivepenny House, Borgh, Isle of Lewis HS2 0RX
Opening Hours: 10.30am-5.30pm
Closed Sunday and Monday
T: 01851 850345 E: [email protected] www.facebook.com/BorghPottery
14
HEB
| Issue 15 | 2016
Borgh pottery…
tradition reborn
by | Iain A MacSween
Photographs by | Fred Silver
Even before you step foot inside
Borgh Pottery, there’s a wonderful
sense of serenity as the soothing
sound of a stream gently trickling its
way to the sea sets the tone.
And thanks to an extensive
refurbishment in 2015, the first
thing you see as you enter the
building is Sue Blair working her
magic on the wheel.
It was in 1973 that Sue and
her husband Alex relocated to
Stornoway from Lancashire, as part
of an initiative by the now-defunct
Highlands and Islands Development
Board, to breathe new life into
socially and economically fragile
areas.
Both pottery enthusiasts, they
established the Stornoway
Pottery just outside the town,
before building the first part of
the current premises in Borve in
1978. Sadly, Alex passed away
in September 2013, and with the
Pottery building in a state of decline,
Sue was left with a dilemma.
Should she wind down the
business, or instead, dive headfirst
into redevelopment? Thankfully,
she chose the latter.
“Over the past 40 years we’d
managed to save some money
which was earmarked for the
upkeep of the Pottery building, so I
didn’t feel any compunction about
spending it,” said Sue. “This was
the rainy day that we had saved for.”
This year represents the first full
season Sue will find herself working
alone, albeit in beautiful new
surroundings. “I decided that if I
was going to continue working, I
might as well have somewhere nice
to work,” she said. “I hardly spend
any time in the house. The pottery
is where I spend my life.”
The sheer amount of delicately
crafted wares that make up the
pottery is a sight to behold. The
natural instinct – which almost
overwhelms you – is to pick up
a piece and touch it, to feel the
grooves and texture, as if by doing
so you are being told its life story.
A story which, Sue explains, begins
in a lump of clay which is then
thrown, turned, baked and gazed
to become the work of art it is
today. There’s something quite
spellbinding about the whole
pottery process. Indeed, what’s
brilliant about Borgh Pottery is just
that – as soon as you walk in you
are likely to see Sue on her wheel,
visually demonstrating a process of
events that will ultimately result in
a stunningly beautiful dinner set, or
a casserole dish - whatever she has
on her radar for that particular day.
“Before the refurbishment you
couldn’t see any of this,” said Sue,
who holds a degree in Ceramics
from Gray’s School of Art, in
Aberdeen. “My wheel was tucked
away in the back of the building,
hidden from view. Now it’s the
first thing you see when you come
in. It’s like walking into a restaurant
and being able to see the kitchen. I
like that.”
Everything created by Sue is
handthrown stoneware – it can all
go in your oven and dishwasher,
and it’s all high-fired and very
durable. Sue readily admits that
visitors to her pottery don’t fully
understand the lengthy processes
involved in manufacturing her
goods. “I don’t expect them to,”
she added.
“Some people come in having
watched ‘The Great Pottery Throw
Down’ on TV, which might have
given a little insight, but the reality is
that an awful lot of work has gone
into each piece, that no-one ever
sees – mixing glazes, packing the
kiln twice, once for each firing.”
For a small business, Borgh Pottery
offers a wide range of glaze colour
and finish, from gloss to matte.
By using traditional techniques,
Sue allows flexibility and scope in
design, and is therefore much indemand for off-island commissions
in stoneware or porcelain. “Our
customer base has always been
essentially local, with friends and
family who visit regularly,” said Sue.
“I also buy in a range of items to
complement the pots in the shop.
I try to choose something a little
different.”
To follow Sue around the new-look
Pottery is to get lost in time. “I’m
really happy with the new Pottery
and I look forward to showing
people round,” she added.
Outside Sue and Alex opened the
Borgh Pottery Garden in 1995,
creating a sheltered environment
for birds and other wildlife. A
stroll around the garden reveals
a surprising variety of plants,
shrubs, and interesting finds from
beachcombing on the nearby
Atlantic shore.
So a visit to Borgh Pottery is much
more than merely browsing over
Sue’s handiwork. It’s a journey into
the history of each piece of clay, and
indeed Sue can point to some works
that were inspired by the colour
and atmosphere of the surrounding
scenery on a particular day.
15
| Iain and Emma MacRury
smokehouse
becomes
shop
window
for Isles
Photographs by | Roz Skinner
16
HEB
| Issue 15 | 2016
Back to basics and ensuring visitors are treated to a full Hebridean experience, Salar
Smokehouse in Lochcarnan is back in business.
Set up in 1987 as a small business in South Uist, just over a decade later, Salar
Salmon had become an international name and was bought over by Loch Duart
Ltd in 2008.
By April 2015 however, the plant was shut down, with the loss of 10 local jobs.
Yet former production manager, Iain MacRury had other ideas – purchasing the
business, drawing focus to the talents held with in its island home and reviving the
Salar brand.
“It’s an absolutely fantastic feeling to have bought the Smokehouse, there’s really no
words for it,” said Iain.
“It was started from scratch in 1987 and we’re going back to basics, getting as close
to the original smoking recipe as we can and getting the internationally known
brand back out there.
“The response so far has been brilliant, the feedback from all our customers has
been positive.”
Employing six staff, including three original Smokehouse workers, the back-tobasics approach is making for a vibrant workplace, as Iain continued: “You’ve got to
have the knowledge and expertise on the ground, and that’s what we have.
“There’s no titles here, everyone gets on with what needs done and the
employees are keen for the Smokehouse to work. They could see issues before,
had ideas to develop, and now these are getting taken on board.”
And one of the major changes at the Lochcarnan business is expansion of the
Smokehouse’s shop area – from a space measuring one metre by three to a 25m²
retail base which offers far more to visitors than simply delicious fish.
“People were coming a couple miles down the road to this tiny area to buy fish,
it seemed crazy we didn’t have more,” Iain said. “There are some very talented
people in these islands, from Ness to Barra, hidden away and making fantastic things.
“I’m an islander and I’m proud of our islands so we’ve now got 30 suppliers, from
the Butt of Lewis to Vatersay, stocking their products in the new shop.
“We want to improve the visitor experience, not just for us but for the islands. We
make sure we take on things that are different to other shops and we’ve a bespoke
range of Hebridean Jewellery which is unique to the Salar Smokehouse,” he went on.
“We don’t see other businesses as competition – we’re small islands and we have
to work together and support one another to offer the best we’ve got to visitors.”
As well as the Salar Smokehouse products, and exclusive Hebridean Jewellery
designs, the new retail space also houses island-made chocolate, tablet and bakery
goods; jam, chutney and black pudding; shellfish and seafood, and candles and
haberdashery items amongst the range of isles-made merchandise.
And making sure visitors to the islands aren’t stuck, the Smokehouse also offers a
spot for free Wi-Fi and phone/tablet charging, as well as tea and coffee facilities,
water top-ups and a toilet stop.
“We’re back to basics and back to the quality of product our customers recognise,
so it’s time to get back to our Highland and Island hospitality as well,” Iain added.
“Salar Smokehouse is open again, come in and have a cèilidh with us.”
Our award winning Flaky Smoked Salmon has won numerous
awards since it was first produced on the premises
Come and see our
great range of local
produce at our shop at
Salar Smokehouse Ltd,
The Pier, Lochcarnan,
Isle of South Uist,
Na h-Eileanan an Iar
HS8 5PD
For further information, please contact Smokehouse at:
01870 610324
[email protected]
www.salarsmokehouse.co.uk
Like us on Facebook!
Follow us on Twitter
17
Anne MacLellan
Lochboisdale Café
Photography by
Iain Stephen Morrison, Am Paipear
New harbour development inspires business to expand
An increase in custom at the end of last summer
spurred the owner of the Lochboisdale Café
to expand her premises for the start of this
year’s tourist season.
With advice from Business Gateway Outer Hebrides,
Anne MacLellan secured a £10k grant from the
Sealladh na Beinne Moire (SnBM) Community Fund,
which has helped her triple the size of her kitchen,
expand her gift shop and increase table covers by 66%.
Now the Lochboisdale business owner is hoping
the anticipated increase in yachting traffic to the
new Lochboisdale Harbour will allow her to take
on additional staff over the busy summer months.
Anne said: “The development provides a whole
new avenue of opportunity for the island not
just for businesses based at the harbour. After
the development opened I saw an increase in my
turnover on the previous year – the café was just
getting busier, and a lot of that was down to more
yachts berthing. That was a big plus for us and
I realised I needed to expand quicker than
originally anticipated.
“Getting the SnBM Community Fund grant was
a boost, and Business Gateway helped me with
my financial projections for the application.
Download our free business support app.
18
HEB
| Issue 15 | 2016
My adviser has always been on hand when I’ve
needed support, originally helping with my business
plan and menu pricing and more recently with
social media, website and management training.
It’s a fantastic free resource for business owners.
“Now that the café can comfortably seat up to 30
people I’ll need to take on additional summer staff
to serve the anticipated increase in custom.”
Lynne Mac Millan, Business Support Officer,
Business Gateway, said: “Local businesses,
like the café, saw an increase in custom after
the harbour development opened which
spurred many to consider expansion as a way
to capitalise on the harbour’s growing popularity.
We were delighted when Anne asked for help
with her financial projections for the grant.
It’s an exciting time for her. We’re thrilled
that the new development is having such
a positive effect on her business.”
For more information on Lochboisdale Café
visit www.facebook.com/UistPO/
Find out how Business Gateway Outer Hebrides
can help your business visit www.bgateway.com/
westernisles or call 01851 808 240.
I
19
The Stornoway Trust
Photograph by
Colin Cameron
fo
ot
pa
th
on
ly
The Woodlands Centre
At the heart of the Castle Grounds
A 10-minute walk from the town centre
Open every morning from 9.30am (Monday-Saturday)
Celebrating 15 years of serving good food and drink to our wonderful customers
If you’re visiting and need directions
Call us on 01851 706916
Car parking available
For your breakfast, brunch, lunch, afternoon tea or snack
Take-away refreshments and food available
Selection of wines, beers and spirits are also available
in-house for that nice chill-out drink
20
HEB
| Issue
15 | 2016
Contains
Ordnance
Survey data © Crown copyright 2016
The Woodlands Centre
A Starting Point, Finishing Point, Meeting Point
Check us out on Facebook
The Stornoway
Stornoway Trust
Trust was
wasthe
thefirst
firstdemocratic
democraticlandowner
landownerininScotland,
Scotland,pioneering
pioneering
development. ItIt took
took over
over the
theland
landaround
aroundBroadbay
Broadbayincluding
includingallall
community development.
and Stornoway
Stornoway and
andpart
partof
ofNorth
NorthLochs,
Lochs,after
afterLord
LordLeverhulme,
Leverhulme,the
thelast
last
of Point and
all of
of Lewis,
Lewis, offered
offered the
theland
landto
toits
itspeople
peopleinin1923.
1923. The
TheTrust
Trusthas
hassold
sold
owner of all
almost all its
its town
town property
property over
over the
the years
yearstotoassist
assistdevelopment
developmentbut
butremains
remains
an extensive
extensive crofting
crofting landlord.
landlord. The
TheTrust
Trustisiselected
electedby
bythose
thoseon
onthe
theelectoral
electoralroll
roll
within its boundaries.
boundaries.
Inside the
Castle Grounds
Photograph
by by
Photograph
Colin
Cameron
Colin
Cameron
Walks
Walksand
and
memories
memories
Cycle tracks
Photograph
Photographby
by
Colin
ColinCameron
Cameron
wildlife
Fishing and wildlife
Photograph
byby
Photograph
Colin
Cameron
Colin
Cameron
21
History
History
Your flexible route to further
qualifications and employment
through Lews Castle College UHI
Degree/H
onours
HND
HNC
SGA/NC
School/E
mployme
nt
E
M
P
L
O
Y
M
E
N
T
If you would like to speak to someone about courses at your college
please visit our web-site and/or contact
Catherine Donald on t: 01851 770202 e: [email protected]
www.lews.uhi.ac.uk
22
HEB
| Issue 15 | 2016
stornoway…
a university town
The development of Stornoway as a ‘University
Town’ took another step forward this year with
the submission of plans for new accommodation
for another 49 students in Stornoway town
centre.
This new accommodation is addition to student
rooms available at the Bridge Centre on
Bayhead in central Stornoway.
“This is one of the most exciting developments
for the Western Isles in many years and
demonstrates that when both local and regional
partners work together there are mutual benefits
for the whole island economy,” said College
Principal, Mr Iain Macmillan.
“We are confident that the new facilities will
help to boost the local economy and help us to
develop the college and university and achieve
our objective of encouraging more people to
come to our islands to live, work, study and
carry out research.
“We are committed to help to build capacity and
confidence in the local economy and to reverse
the out-migration trends from the islands that
have become the norm. Amongst the ways
of achieving this is by making more people
aware of what our islands have to offer,” added
Mr Macmillan.
The new student accommodation is proposed
for the former Stag Bakeries site on Bayhead
and Stag Road and amongst the facilities within
10 minutes walking distance of the site are the
following:
• Lews Castle College UHI – Stornoway
campus – in Lews Castle Grounds
• Local shops, supermarkets and filling stations
• The local bowling and golf clubs
• All weather football pitches
• Stornoway rugby pitch and other grass football
pitches
• Stornoway Harbour with its opportunities to
join canoeing, sailing and sea angling clubs
• Tennis, badminton and other sports facilities
located at the Bridge Centre
• Lews Castle Grounds – with its extensive
range of walks and network of cycle paths
• An Lanntair Gallery, theatre and cinema
• Sports centre, swimming pool and athletics
track
• A wide range of pubs, restaurants and other
‘eateries’
Mr Macmillan said: “Stornoway offers an
impressive range of social, recreational and
sporting facilities. When you then add the rivers,
beaches, hills and moorland easily accessible
in the rest of Lewis and Harris, we can offer
students an excellent and safe environment in
which to learn and grow.
“At the same time an influx of new students
will enhance the membership of local groups
and clubs, particularly those related to sports
and recreation. I am sure that they would
find a warm welcome in the town and island
and that they will be a great boost to both the
economy and community. We have an excellent
opportunity to develop the University town for
the benefit of the islands,” added Mr Macmillan.
The leader of the local council, Comhairle nan
Eilean Siar, Councillor Angus Campbell, said: “Our
council and local partners are committed to work
together to build on the facilities available locally
to attract people to study, train, live and work in
our islands and the new accommodation helps
us all to build on the theme of ‘Stornowavy – a
University Town’.
“The other facilities which the University and
Lews Castle College continue to expand
throughout our islands will also help us to
support the development of the local economy.”
The local sports council also expressed support.
“The Lewis and Harris Sports Council and
member clubs are delighted to hear about this
new facility and look forward to inviting new
students to join our clubs and take advantage
of the wide range of sporting opportunities
available locally. This will not only be of benefit
to the students but it will help us to continue
to develop sporting opportunities in Lewis and
Harris,” said Lesley Graham who chairs the
council.
Stornoway Councillor Charlie Nicolson
(Stornoway South) said: “This new development
will inject new life into the town and
complement the previous investment with the
College and UHI have invested in the campus
buildings which they have built throughout the
Islands and the facilities at the Bridge Centre in
Stornoway.
“These modern facilities will bring the number of
student facilities available in Stornoway to over
70 places which by any measurement is very
significant to both the economic and educational
development of Stornoway and our Islands,” he
said.
The planning application was submitted
by Cityheart consultants and the new
accommodation is scheduled for completion by
August 2017.
Further accommodation plans to support
the development of the Lews Castle College
UHI Art and Music courses in North Uist and
Benbecula are also currently being examined.
23
craft-venture
couple take over
former post office
Kilbride Cafe & Campsite
(Overlooking the Sound of Barra,
10 mins from Eriskay/Barra ferry)
West Kilbride, Isle of South Uist, HS8 5TT
Tel 01878 700008/700568 Mob 07751 251522,
Email [email protected]
Cafe Open Mon – Sat 9am – 5pm, Sun 12 - 4pm
Free wi-fi available in Cafe
Bringing the Old Post Office building back to
life, Susan and Austen Dancey were delighted
to house their Puffin Studio Crafts shop in
Creagorry, Benbecula, in the well-known
premises.
“People remember it as the Post Office and
before that the Bank,” said Austen, “and say that
they’re pleased to see the building in use again.”
“Many tell us that it seems a lot larger than
before but all we’ve done is move things around
and open up the windows on the road side,
which lets in a lot more light.”
Opened in November last year, the light,
spacious environment provides the perfect
spotlight for a host of locally made crafts and arts,
including gifts featuring the world famous Harris
Tweed label.
Offering a wide range of greetings cards, gift
wrappings and accessories, Puffin Studio Craft
We are a small seafood processing company
located in The Isle of North Uist, in The Outer
Hebrides, surrounded by some of the cleanest
and pollution free waters in the world. We own
some fishing vessels and take fresh catches on
a daily basis from several other boats. Our local
harbour is adjacent to us and the boats catch a
diverse range of shellfish
Kallin Shellfish, 8 Kallin Grimsay
Isle Of North Uist HS6 5HY
T: 01870 603258 F: 01870 603285
www.thehebrideancatch.co.uk
24
HEB
| Issue 15 | 2016
also has gifts for all occasions – from carved
wooden animals to fabric wall-hanging trophy
heads, candles, yarns, gift box sets and much
more.
And if it is Harris Tweed gifts you’re after, look
no further than Susan’s handcrafted Tweed hip
flasks, corsages, bookmarks, cushions, key rings,
needle cases and pin cushions, cuff links, buttons,
and Tweed jacketed mugs fitting the bill for any
birthday, anniversary or wedding present.
Susan, a biology teacher at Sgoil Lionacleit, and
Austen, a former RAF Officer, relocated from
their home in Lincolnshire to Benbecula four
years ago.
Opening Puffin Studio Crafts in November 2015,
the couple have been pleased to find a lot of
support from the local community, as Austen
said: “People have been so supportive and have
been spreading the word – someone in Glasgow
• Fresh hebridean scallops
• Hand picked hebridean crab claw meat
• Hebridean cocktail crab claws
• Cooked hebridean langoustine
• Hebridean hot smoked salmon
• Hebridean cooked lobster
called relatives on the
island and asked them
about ‘the new shop’.
“It is not just the scenery
and the environment,
but also the people that
make the islands special.
Everyone has been so
welcoming and friendly,”
he continued, adding: “And
when the only thing to
worry about on the daily
commute is sheep on the
road that can’t be bad.”
The couple’s interest in art and crafts, combined with their move to the
Hebrides, lead to Susan creating gift products from Harris Tweed; and
ultimately the birth of Puffin Studio Crafts.
It was logical that when Austen started his bespoke picture framing business
it should be incorporated into the shop.
Now, alongside offering their own hand-crafted wares, the Benbecula
shop also offers the works of around 15 to 20 island producers; as well
as companies such as East of India, Dora, Arran Aromatics and Celtic
Candles. Original works of art and prints are on sale from island based
artists, among them Michael Gilfedder from South Uist, Margaret Cowie
and Judith Entwisle-Baker, both based in North Uist, and Lewis-based artist
Vega.
Puffin Studio Crafts is located in the former
Creagorry Post Office on the Isle of Benbecula
Susan and Austen are hoping to welcome many tourists and visitors to
Puffin Studio Crafts this year. “The reception we’ve had locally has been
very, very positive so we’ve no need to think it will be different for visitors
to the islands,” said Austen. “And hopefully it lets them take a piece of the
Western Isles back home with them.”
Puffin Studio Crafts is open Monday-Friday, 10.30am to 4.30pm, and on
Saturdays, 10.30am to 5.30pm. Keep up to date with new products and
ranges at the Puffin Studio Crafts Facebook page.
01870 602308
01870 603009
MacLennans Supermarket
2 Balivanich
Isle of Benbecula
HS7 5LA
E: [email protected]
www.maclennanssupermarket.co.uk
Our Opening Times
MONDAY - SATURDAY 8.00 am - 8.00pm
SUNDAY
11.00am - 4.00pm
MacLennans Supermarket
25
20 years of cèolas…
and many more to come
Twenty years of promoting Gaelic culture and heritage from within the
language’s heartland is being celebrated as community-managed project
Ceòlas reaches this major milestone.
The brainchild of Hamish Moore, Daliburgh-based Ceòlas began as a
week-long summer school in 1996.
Mary Schmoller, Ceòlas Operations Manager, said: “Hamish had been to
Cape Breton [in eastern Canada] and realised how similar parts of it were
still to the culture of the islands.
“He discussed the idea with PnE [Pròiseact nan Ealan, the former national
Gaelic Arts Agency] about where would be most suitable and it transpired
that South Uist could be a candidate community.
“The project was first run by PnE with the support of the local Arts
Development Officer ‘Ryno’ Morrison and, after observing the
programme, several people became involved in a variety of roles over the
coming years until it became a community-managed project in 2001.”
She continued: “For many of our directors, Ceòlas has given them the
opportunity to contribute to the cultural and social development of the
islands.
“The Summer School is a beacon of what is best about a Gaelic
community, in song, music and dance in public and in private homes at
house cèilidhs.”
Indeed, through the annual Summer School, Ceòlas has become one
of Scotland’s leading Gaelic culture, heritage and arts organisations with
participants joining from all over the world, many coming back year on
S
3 r um
d me
Ou
- 8 rM
te
th u
rH
J sic
eb
rid S u l y, Sch
es ou 2 oo
, S th 0 1 l
co U 6
tla ist
nd
S
3 r goil
U d Ch
In ibhi - 8 t iùil
ns st h Sh
e a a n am
Ga D
ll, eas t - I u hra
Al
c h idh
ba
ar
,2
0
26
HEB
| Issue 15 | 2016
16
| Public concert by Cèolas participants
year, for instruction in piping, fiddle, song, dance and the Gaelic language
from both Scottish and Cape Breton tutors.
“The feedback from the participants is that the friendly community is the
great attraction, and the quality of the tutors teaching in the school,” said
Mary.
“The evening programme, which is well attended by everyone who enjoys
traditional music and song, is an opportunity for both the students and
community to interact.”
With the 2011 Census identifying South Uist as one of the strongholds of
the Gaelic language, during its 20 years Ceòlas has built on its successful
beginnings to expand and develop the further promotion of local culture
and heritage.
As well as the Summer School the organisation holds an annual Symposium
which celebrates significant local people, places, events or traditions.
And last year in both the Summer School and the Symposium, Gaelic
Immersion Courses were offered and proved popular.
“The courses were targeted at those wanting to start teaching in Gaelic
Medium Education and 16 people attended over the two community
events, which was partly why they were so successful,” said Mary.
“It was the first time some of the teachers had heard Gaelic spoken as a
community language and we are hopeful to continue this work in 2016
and onwards.”
This year has already continued a pace for Ceòlas with its third visit to
the Celtic Connections festival in Glasgow, holding an event working
in partnership with Lews Castle College UHI and Taigh Chearsabhagh
museum and arts centre, North Uist.
And another recent success story for the community managed organisation
has been the People’s Health Lottery funded Buttons and Bows project,
which is set to run until February 2017.
“It’s our most recent project to ensure that our young people are
schooled in traditional music,” Mary said. “Sessions take place in North
Uist, Benbecula, Iochdar and Lochboisdale and Allan Henderson of Blazin’
Fiddles is the tutor, since he moved back to Benbecula last summer.
“Button Box Accordion was initially taught by Aonghas Alick MacDonald,
until his untimely passing during August 2015 and since then Uilleam
Morrison has taken on this role,” she continued, adding: “All classes are
well attended and the feedback from people is great.”
Feedback from Ceòlas’ first Hogmanay School, held over last New Year
in Grogarry Lodge, was also favourable to ensure that another session will
take place at the turn of the year 2017.
For further information about the work and Schools of Ceòlas, please visit
www.Ceolas.co.uk
knitting…
a unique
Eriskay
tradition
As they are completely
hand-knitted by a select
group of four island ladies,
an Eriskay Jersey really is
something special.
Traditionally made and
sold only through the
Eriskay Shop, the jerseys
hit international headlines
in 2015 when one South
Uist resident, teacher
Marybell MacIntyre,
travelled to the Vatican
in Rome to personally
present Pope Francis with
an Eriskay jersey that she
knitted herself.
warmth and
protection and
each bore an
individual pattern.
Catriona Walker,
from shop owners
Co-Chomunn
Eirisgeidh, said:
“What I’ve read
is, they were
first introduced
to Eriskay by an
Eriskay lady who
was a ‘Herring Girl’
herself.
Herring Girls were
women who followed
the herring fishery
round Scotland and
down to England
each year, gutting,
salting and packing
the fish in barrels.
And self-confessed
‘jumper junkie’,
adventurer, author, broadcaster and former
Taransay ‘Castaway’ Ben Fogle boasts through
blogs of his ‘beautiful hand-knitted jumper from
Eriskay’.
Traditionally the jumpers were knitted by the
women of Eriskay for their fishermen husbands.
The finely-knitted seamless jerseys offered
“While the ladies
awaited the return
of the fishermen
they would knit to
pass the time. Each lady would have been from
various areas and each had their own patterns.
The Eriskay lady decided that she liked all the
patterns and knitted them all on one jersey, thus
giving birth to the now famous Eriskay Jersey.”
Knitted traditionally in navy or cream, the Eriskay
yarns are a feat of knitting skill, with separate
Continued on page 28
ERISKAY SHOP
Buth Eirisgeidh
B888
Isle of Eriskay,
South Uist HS8 5JJ
Tel: 01878 720236
Easaval
South
Roneval
Hand-knitted Eriskay
Kilbride
Kilbride
Uist
201
Pollachar
Ludag
Pollachar
Ludag
Jerseys made to order
Harris Tweed Crafts, Books & Gifts Lingay
Eriskay Shop
Souvenirs & Postcards
Eriskay
Eriskay
of
(Eiriosgaigh)
Off-Licence, Grocery & Post Office Fuday
B
27
13-stitch panels made on four pins, and the
shoulder area is grafted together before the
sleeves are added which are knitted down from
the shoulders.
“They are grafted together rather than seamed,”
continued Catriona. “And the reason for that was
that if the men fell in the water the jersey was
stronger and less likely to tear while being rescued.
“And the way in which the sleeves were knitted
down meant that if they got damaged, it was
easy to take the cuff back to repair it.”
Originally a ‘work-wear’ item, the Eriskay jersey
is undergoing something of a resurgence in
popularity with 18 being sold through the Eriskay
shop last year.
“We’ve found they’ve become very popular
over the past few years and a lot of people visit
the shop especially because of the jerseys,”
Catriona said.
“Many people have got to know about them
through the Peter May Trilogy [Hebridean based
fiction novels ‘The Blackhouse’, ‘The Lewisman’,
and ‘The Chessmen’] and we just sent one jersey
off to the US after a couple visited the shop
| Megan MacKinnon shows off the unique
specifically to buy a jersey having read up on them.” Eriskay jersey
Co-Chomunn Eirisgeidh has four knitters making
the Eriskay jerseys for sale. Waiting time for
jumpers ranges from three to 12 months, and
they come at a cost of £250.
But it all adds to the uniqueness of an island
tradition, as Catriona added: “One of our ladies
knits without even looking at a pattern. She was
taught how by Mrs Flora MacDonald, a neighbour,
and any mistakes she made, she just had to take it
back and start again, that’s how she learnt.
28
Open: Mon-Fri 10am-4pm, Sat 10am-1pm
HEB
| Issue 15 | 2016
“They are a real labour of love to make and
the ladies rightly take pride in their jerseys. We
hope that all those who have bought the jerseys
feel that pride when they wear them also.”
To find out more about the Eriskay jerseys
and Co-Chomunn Eirisgeidh, check out their
Facebook page at www.facebook.com/
Eriskay-Shop or email: eriskayshop@
gmail.com or telephone: 01878 720236.
proves a natural
route for Linda
Photographs and story by | Eilidh Whiteford
Step into the world of Hebridean Soap
Company and you step into a world of all natural
ingredients and fragrances as owner Linda
Sutherland and team create an array of soapy
delights and lotions from the Breasclete-based
business.
Established in 2002, and the first commercial
soap producing company in the Western Isles,
Hebridean Soap came about as Linda, a former
IBM systems programmer, looked for a new
challenge in life.
“I was working in Germany with IBM, travelling
to and fro from the UK every two weeks,” she
said. “I was burnt-out and I needed a change, so
I came here [to Lewis] for a holiday.
“I loved it here, and bought my house without
thinking of what I would do for a living...”
Having previously made soaps for friends and
family, Linda decided to set up her business
with the aim of producing natural soap made in
traditional ways, from local ingredients where
possible.
A year later and Hebridean Soap Company
products were being supplied to local and
mainland hotels, as well as taking off world-wide
via the company’s website.
And in 2005, the Company moved out of
Linda’s custom-built kitchen and into its present
home – a renovated century-old stone barn.
“Around a hundred years ago the building
was originally a dwelling house and then
was used as a hardware store I’ve been
told,” Linda said.
soapmakIng
“Renovating it was a big investment, but
all the neighbours were so helpful and
the crofters say they’re pleased to see the
| Linda Sutherland shows off some of her big range
building in use again.”
of Hebridean Soap products.
With a retail space and dedicated workshop
for Linda and her three employees, the
new premises also allows visitors the
And she is now looking into expanding into
chance to walk around and witness the soap
face serums, undertaking research into serum
making for themselves.
preparation with a view to launching more
Hebridean Soap Company products.
Mixed, poured and moulded by hand, it’s clear
that Hebridean Soap Company products offer
something different to the mass-produced products.
“We use a variety of vegetable oils for the base,
but because we hand-make the soap, there’s
no need to add chemicals,” said Linda. “And this
lack of additives means the soaps are not only
gentle to use, but the precious glycerine in the
soap is retained throughout the process.”
Made from sustainable palm and coconut oils,
with pure essential oils for glorious scents,
permitted colourings and the ‘Angel Tears’ of soft
Lewis rainwater, the Hebridean Soap Company
offers 16 different fragrance soap bars, as well as
a range of liquid soaps.
Most recently, Linda developed the Gaia skincare range, with Precious Hand and Body cream
and a Rosehip and Chamomile face cream
already proving popular.
| The latest skin-care range launched by the Hebridean Soap Company,
named after the first Greek goddess, Mother Earth Gaia.
“It’s the researching which can take time, but
there’s so much you can do with the products
and it’s important to use good ingredients;
the Chamomile and Rosehip face cream
for example, it’s excellent for calming and
rejuvenating the skin.”
“It does take a long time to develop something
new though as I’ve to find out about it, test it
and then have it certified for sale, but I need the
research to keep my brain active and it’s great to
keep trying something new.”
She added: “I’m amazed by how well things
have gone for us over the years, and so pleased
by the response we get back from customers.”
To find out more about the Hebridean Soap
Company, visit the shop and work area at
25 Breasclete (clearly signposted from the main
road) or log onto www.hebrideansoap.co.uk
| Peppermint Swirl soap bars ready to be cut. Bar soaps are made in fourteen
and a half kilo slabs that are left to cure for four weeks before being cut.
29
Each slab makes 120 bars of Hebridean Soap Company products.
hoTel looks Back
at history that started
with a school
Story by | Eilidh Whiteford
Eileen MacDonald since she moved to the Isle of
Lewis in 1982.
A truly island location – with the Carloway Broch
“In 1966 the local school stopped and the hotel
nearby and the Callanish Standing Stones just
was opened in 1967 and was probably the first
along the road – a historic building and a warm
major licence outside Stornoway at the time,”
welcome are what awaits visitors to the Doune
said Eileen.
Braes Hotel in Carloway.
“Back then [Harris Tweed] weaving was very
Originally housing the local school and
prominent in the area and the hotel mainly
catered for the local people – there was a great
headmaster’s living quarters, the Doune Braes
camaraderie with the weavers and groups from
Hotel has been under the stewardship of owner
villages all over, all the
way to Barvas, would
meet in the bar,” she
continued. “The hotel
gave them a focal point.”
A downturn in the
Harris Tweed industry
during the 1990s
however saw a change
in custom for Doune
Braes as the Westside
hotel shifted to cater
more for tourists –
undergoing major
investment with rooms
going through an
Light snacks, coffees, teas available all day
upgrade as well as an
Local produce on menu - including shellfish and lamb
extension added to the
Menu changes weekly Functions catered for
front of the building.
“In 1982 I’d say only
around 10 percent of
our custom was from
tourism, but now that’s
about two thirds,” Eileen
said. “It’s been a big
change over the years,
but it keeps us evolving
and developing all the
time.”
“It’s just like being part
of a family here, and it’s
wonderful to have met
people from all over
the world on our own
doorstep.”
30
DOUNE BRAES
Carloway, Isle of Lewis
www.doune-braes.co.uk
Tel: 01851 643252
HEB
| Issue 15 | 2016
The friendly, family welcome, and ideal location
to explore Lewis and Harris, are aspects which
has seen visitors from across the globe return
annually to stay at the three-star Doune Braes
Hotel, situated within minutes of Atlantic
coast beaches, fly-fishing lochs, world-class
archaeological sites and wildlife walks.
As well as the Carloway Broch and Callanish
Standing Stones nearby, the hotel also
neighbours the Gearrannan Blackhouse Village,
with Shawbost Norse Mill and Kiln and the Isle
of Great Bernera not far away for visitors to
enjoy and explore.
And as a base to explore Lewis and Harris further,
Doune Braes is often a stop-off for visitors keen
to make the adventure to the St Kilda islands.
“Our European tourists love the green
environment, the space, freedom and fresh
air offered by the hotel’s location; and the
availability of boat trips nearby is a draw for
many,” said Eileen.
“We’ve had one lady from San Francisco who
stayed with us six years in a row trying to get out
to St Kilda. She finally made it and went twice
during her trip, she was delighted.”
And visitors will often come to stay to visit the
hotel itself. “There’s a lot of history attached
to the building and so many people come back
because their mum or dad went to school here;
and the island connection with the Clearances is
a big part of the tourist trade, especially with our
US tourists in particular.
“We always offer a homely welcome and visitors
comment they’re happy to meet our local staff,
chat with the young island people and ask about
the various aspects of island living; and our staff
are happy to pass on their local knowledge,”
she continued.
“A lot of lovely things have happened in this
building over its lifetime, and it’s wonderful when
people make themselves known and tell us their
stories connected with the Doune Braes Hotel.”
To find out more about the Doune Braes Hotel,
please visit www.doune-braes.co.uk
CLADDACH
KIRKIBOST CENTRE
• CAFE • GIFT SHOP
• LOCAL ARTWORK FOR SALE
MONDAY - FRIDAY 11AM TO 3PM
SATURDAY, SUNDAY EXTENDED OPENING
HOURS DURING SUMMER MONTHS
TEMPLE VIEW
Check our Cafe Facebook page
for latest hours and special events
email: [email protected]
Hosts: Harvey and June Maclean-Ross
www.templeviewhotel.co.uk
15 minutes from Balivanich airport
and from Lochmaddy ferry terminal
4 single and 6 double/twin bedrooms
with ensuite facilities
Good food plays a very important
role at Temple View with the best use
of Scottish and local produce
Carinish, North Uist HS6 5EJ Tel: 01876 580676
Fax: 01876 580682 E-mail: [email protected]
Ideal centre for touring North and South Uist, Benbecula and Berneray
A
M
RD
TH
We serve delicious home-made soup , home-baked
oatcakes, scones & cakes, toasted sandwiches, open
sandwiches, closed sandwiches, baked potatoes, local
peat smoked sea trout & salmon
Fairtrade Tea and Coffee
DELICIOUS DAILY SPECIALS!
Internet Access available
AREE STOR
ES
Licenced Grocers
Tea-room
E LO
OT
P
R
BST E
Breakfast rolls, Lunches including homemade
soup, snacks, homemade cakes, sandwichs
and toasties made with local produce
Just phone to find out what’s on the menu
9am to 6pm in summer
9am to 5.30pm in winter
Go to www.claddach-kirkibost.org
for updates on summer events
URACHADH UIBHIST
Claddach Kirkibost Centre, North Uist,
Western Isles, HS6 5EP
TEL/FAX: 01876 580390
We are looking for people to supply us with
locally grown fruits and vegetables.
General Store
for provisions, wine and spirits,
hardware, clothing and more
Just 500 yards from Berneray Pier
01876 540288
Proprietors: Bob and Iris Steedman
31
honours
for publishers
as books win
approval
A collection of wonderful, charming, at times
poignant and often very funny tales from one
of Stornoway’s ‘old guard’, Mr Pat MacFarlane,
is proving to be a hit for Lewis based Gaelic
publishers Acair Ltd.
Launched on Pat’s 95th birthday in 2015, ‘A
Stornoway Life – From Scotland Street to South
Africa’, sees the author reflect on his early life
growing up in Stornoway, in the same Scotland
Street house built by his great-grandfather in
1920 where Pat still lives. Then there are his
war years in South Africa and tales of the many
acquaintances he met through his iconic town
centre bookshop, Loch Erisort.
From stories recalling childhood games, japes
and ploys that went with growing up in that era,
to tales of his service during the war years – Pat
trained pilots how to land planes using early
simulators – and musings on the plethora of
individuals and characters that have made their
way into his life, the book is charming, laughout-loud funny and full of personality; just like Pat
himself.
‘A Stornoway Life’ is just one of the recent
publications from the Lewis-based publishing
house to have hit the mark with audiences.
And within the industry itself, the work of Acair
has been honoured, with ‘Dol Fodha na Greine’
(The Going Down of the Sun) being awarded
the Overall Literature Prize at
the Royal National Mod last
year.
Co-published by Acair and
Comunn Eachdraidh Nis
(Ness Historical Society) to
mark 100 years since the
| Author…Norma Macleod
beginning of the First World
War, the bilingual work
delivers a poignant account of
one community’s war-time
Scottish Book Trust, Acair deliver a plethora of
experiences through a collection of photographs
Gaelic titles for pre-school and primary schools
and pieces of writing.
through the BookBug project; and its ‘Sgriob’
‘Cuimhneachan – Remembrance’, is another title
launched in commemoration of World War I and
presents the first anthology on Gaelic verse from
the Great War, giving prominence to the voices
of the soldiers and sailors who fought, as well as
the mothers, sisters, and wives who waited for
them back home.
From spirited patriotic verse composed at the
beginning of the war to the final tragedy of
New Year’s Day 1919 and the loss of over
200 returning servicemen on the Iolaire,
‘Remembrance’ gives a unique view of war
as experience by Gaelic speakers with poems
published in their native tongue, with English
translation, as well as notes on authors and key
personalities and events mentioned.
Established in 1976 to provide Gaelic language
materials for bilingual
education, Acair Ltd
has grown, producing
new and original
works of Gaelic fiction
and championing new
Gaelic writers, as well
as presenting bilingual
books on a variety of
topics from original
poetry and plays to
local historical titles
and books with social
and cultural relevance
to the Highlands and
Islands.
BALTIC BOOKSHOP
Local books
Local authors
Local places
Roderick Smith Ltd, 8-10 Cromwell
Street, Stornoway HS1 2DA
Tel: 01851 702082 Fax: 01851 706644
32
HEB
| Issue 15 | 2016
Working in
collaboration with the
series, aimed at eight to 12-year-olds, is offering
a platform for many new, unpublished authors.
And the new fiction series ‘Aiteal’ – meaning
‘a glimpse of sunshine’ in Gaelic –also delivers
a treasure trove of literary delights, including
‘An Aisling’ by Alison Lang which received a
‘Highly Commended’ accolade in the prestigious
Donald Meek Awards, set up to encourage new
and creative writing.
Translating as ‘The Dream’, Lang’s fiction is
an unruly saga of friendship, jealousy, Gaelic
identity, Scottish politics, a 25-year romance
and a whole lot of guilt and questions as what
started as a student joke, the dream of a new
Gaelic-speaking community to escape the bleak
economy of the 1990s, is left shattered twenty
years on.
Also recently released under the Aiteal title is ‘An
Dosan’, the fourth novel by Lewis writer Norma
Macleod and winner of the Donald Meek
Award for Gaelic Literature at the Edinburgh
International Book Festival 2015. A book within
a book, ‘An Dosan’ focuses on an eccentric
character called The Dosan, short for his proper
name Domhnall Seumas Iain, who sets out to
write a novel, becoming increasingly unhinged as
he does so, the chapters from which interweave
with Norma’s writing.
Outside the fictional world, and recent Acair
titles proving popular include ‘Gu Leor’ (Galore)
by imaginative and innovative poet Peter Mackay.
Written in Gaelic and English, with the sensibility
of a native speaker and an astute reader of
poetry, the voice of Peter’s work is lyrical and
cogent, with an exotic vocabulary that presents
an intelligent, measured and powerfully
resonant collection, with a maturity far beyond
that of a poet publishing his first full anthology.
‘Ceol Chaluim – The Pipe tunes of Calum
Campbell of Benbecula’ highlights some
50 previously unpublished tunes, tinged with
poignancy as the composer, Calum Campbell
tragically died, alongside his daughter and her
family, in the hurricane which hit the Hebrides
in early January 2005.
The wealth of pipe tunes left by the
accomplished piper, tutor and prolific
composer have been edited by Niall Caimbeul
and Catriona Garbutt, his son and sister, and
published by Acair Ltd, keep the memory of
Calum’s works alive.
And the publication of ‘Dun Eistean – Ness’
by Rachel Barrowman; and ‘The Archaeology
of Ness’ by Chris Barrowman, focus on the
history and discoveries unearthed in the
northern most Lewis region.
‘Dun Eistean’ encapsulates a remarkable
archaeological study, one that has transformed
the understanding of Medieval Gaeldom; and
the lavishly illustrated ‘The Archaeology of
Ness’ takes a closer and very detailed look at
the Ness landscape and what it reveals.
With over 500 titles published by Acair
Ltd since 1976, there is something to suit
every literary taste – and to find out more,
including the publisher’s back catalogue, visit
www.acairbooks.com
w w w. a c a i r b o o k s . c o m
Take the Hebrides
home with you.
Cha leig sibh leas a dhol dhachaigh falamh.
For a full range of Gaelic, English and bilingual
books and the largest selection of Gaelic books
for children visit our new website.
fòn/tel: 01851 703020
[email protected]
33
Success story of a reluctant
performer
by | Katie Macleod
the language, and to learn
the songs, or their ancestry
or whatever it is. The
people who tend to come
to the concerts, they’re so
passionate about the music,
and I always, always forget
from one year to the next,
just how enthusiastic they are
about it.”
‘Enthusiastic’ is a good
adjective for the audience
that evening. Over 100 folk
music fans crowd into the
intimate Abbey Bar to hear
Julie Fowlis and her band sing
‘songs from the Scottish isles.’
| Islanders in the USA…writer Katie Macleod, left, and singer
There’s clapping, footJulie Fowlis
stomping, and cries of “Yeah!”
during
the ‘puirt a bheil’ sets,
The last rays of the day’s sun stream through
and more than a few misty eyes during what the
the window, and notes of fiddle music float
band joke are stereotypically “depressing” Gaelic
through the air from the adjoining room, where
the sound check is taking place. Julie Fowlis, the numbers. Most of the songs are from Julie’s
latest album ‘Gach Sgeul – Every Story’, and
award-winning Gaelic singer and musician from
she’s not just singing either: in the 90-minute
North Uist, looks refreshed and relaxed despite
performance Julie variously plays the bagpipes,
a four-hour drive to Pennsylvania for the fourth
the flute, and the Indian shruti box.
stop on a US tour.
She is softly spoken as she chats to the audience
Her presence on this side of the Atlantic is even
before each set, explaining why she finds
more impressive given that she is terrified of
certain songs particularly moving, and outlining
flying. “So I sort of dread the tour every single
the cultural context behind the lyrics, whether
time it comes along,” she admits with a laugh,
that’s the proud proclamations of the Clan
“but as soon as I get my feet onto terra firma
Macdonald, a musical interpretation of a Sorley
I’m so glad to be here.”
Maclean poem, or the sounds of a Gaelic lullaby.
“I love the experience of touring in America, it’s
She shares personal stories with the crowd
very different to touring anywhere else. The
too; the lullaby was once the soundtrack to her
audiences are different, even the practicalities
daughters’ bedtimes, both of whom are in the
are different, like the big highways and the
US with her on tour.
enormous hotels, everything’s to the max,
supersize... The whole experience is just the
volume turned up, you know.”
Speaking before her October 2015
performance in Harrisburg, the Pennsylvania
state capital, Julie and her band (her husband,
Éamon Doorley, on Irish bouzouki, Duncan
Chisholm on fiddle, and Tony Byrne on guitar)
are just four days into a month-long tour
which sees them cross ten states, culminating
in California. “We started off in Vermont, it’s
beautiful with the autumn colours. We’ve been
before, and it’s always nice to go back to places
that you’ve enjoyed visiting the first time round.
34
“I suppose the biggest thing [about touring
in America] is being constantly surprised and
reminded every year that we come back, how
interested people are in Gaelic music, and the
lengths they go to to find out about it, to learn
HEB
| Issue 15 | 2016
“I’m just continually inspired by other singers,
and the old songs in particular, they’re so
amazing,” Julie says before the show. “I mean
they’ve lasted five and six and seven hundred
years, you know it’s not for nothing that they’ve
survived, they’re strong melodies, and they’re
strong stories, and they obviously speak to
people on some level.”
Julie has been performing professionally for
15 years but, she says, “To be honest I never
wanted to be a performer, I was quite a
reluctant performer, especially a solo performer.
I was quite happy playing with other people,
you know, low-key, in a session, as part of a big
group, quite happy and loved it, but never really
that comfortable with the spotlight.”
She started singing in primary school in North
Uist – “the Gaelic music that everybody did” –
and ended up playing the bagpipes too, which
she continued once her family moved to
Rossshire when she was a teenager. After
graduating from university with a BA in Applied
Music, she spent a year at Sabhal Mòr Ostaig on
Skye to improve her Gaelic, before becoming
the Education Development Officer at Fèis Ros
in Dingwall.
It was when her mother took ill, and ended
up in hospital for a year, that Julie made a
decision that would change her life. “It’s hard to
describe, it just changed my outlook on life quite
dramatically,” she says of her mother’s illness.
“Out of the blue, and I’ll never really know why,
I decided I was going to quit my job and play
music for a year. I thought well, you’re only
here once, and hopefully when I’m older I’ll be
able to say I was wild and reckless once, even
if it was just for a year. I thought I’ll do it now,
before there’s any ties.” She pauses, before
laughing: “That was 15 years ago, and I’ve never
really had a job since!”
In the intervening years, Julie’s career has
reached dizzying heights, not that you would
know it from speaking to her - the singer is
down-to-earth and friendly, as laid back as if she
was chatting over a cup of tea in Lochmaddy.
She has performed at the Opening Ceremony
for the Glasgow XX Commonwealth Games
in 2014; sang at the Ryder Cup on multiple
occasions; and attended the Hollywood
premiere of the Disney film Brave, to which she
lent her vocals.
“The big gigs stand out because they’re big,”
she says, “but sometimes some of the more
memorable things are the little things, you
know, places you visit and the connections you
make with people and even some of the funny
stories, the mishaps on tour.”
There are certainly no mishaps tonight. Julie
and her band receive two standing ovations, and
fans line up to speak to her and snap selfies at
the side of the stage after the show. Thousands
of miles away from its home, the music of the
Hebrides is finding a new and captive audience,
all thanks to the vocals and musical talents of the
islands’ very own Julie Fowlis.
Since her US tour, Julie has performed at Celtic
Connections in Glasgow and at the Temple Bar
TradFest in Dublin. She presents the awardwinning TV programme ‘Port’, currently on
BBC Alba, and co-presented the BBC Radio
2 Folk Awards in London in April. Upcoming
2016 tour dates include Germany, Oban,
Orkney, and Stornoway. For the latest news,
visit www.juliefowlis.com.
Bakery brothers
take three
roles in Island
food trail
A special ‘Eat Drink Hebrides Trail’ launched in March this
year with the aim of highlighting the best food and drink
experiences available throughout the Outer Hebrides. Local
businesses are listed as either being producers, places to eat or
places to buy local produce.
Brothers Allan and Ewen MacLean, from North Uist, run
three highlights of the food and drink trail: The Stepping Stone
Restaurant and MacLean’s Bakery, both in Benbecula, and
Bayhead Shop, in North Uist.
Next year will mark the 30th anniversary of the launch of
MacLean’s Bakery and the business has grown over the years
with the opening of the Stepping Stone Restaurant in 1997,
and Bayhead Shop in 2009, and is now one of the larger
private employers in the islands.
MacLean’s Bakery & Butchery
Uachdar, Isle of Benbecula, HS7 5LY
Run by the MacLean brothers since 1987, our
delicious breads, rolls, pastries, savouries, oatcakes &
biscuits are made by hand, and freshly baked every day.
Our bakery and butcher’s shop in Uachdar, serves our
fresh baking as well as a wide range of local meats,
including local goose and rabbit, venison, and lamb
reared on the family croft.
Open Mon 9.30am-1.30pm,
Tues-Fri 9.30am-5.30pm & Sat 9.30am-4pm
t 01870602659 | e [email protected]
www.eatdrinkhebrides.co.uk
35
Evident to visitors to these three stops on the food trail is the MacLean
brothers’ passion for local produce. Allan said: “The reason we started the
bakery in the first place was in response to demand for fresh, locally produced
bread. We now prepare and serve much more besides bread, but our
original aim to serve quality local produce is still central to our business.’”
In the bakery, Allan continues to work alongside the highly skilled team,
baking everything by hand using traditional methods. Together, they create
an amazing array of breads, rolls, pastries and savouries, freshly baked every
day, and delivered throughout the Western Isles and to the Isle of Skye.
Isle of North Uist
HS6 5DS
Community Shop,
Post Office
& Filling Station
“Our customers wouldn’t get a product truly made in Uist, with the skill
and care they rightly expect. And our bakers would be robbed of the
opportunity to apply the knowledge and skills they have built up over many
years. We take that bit more time and care and I feel our products are all
the better for it.”
Open 8am to 6pm
Monday to Saturday
T: 01876 510 257
http://
facebook.com/bayheadshop
36
HEB
| Issue 15 | 2016
Allan maintains that the traditional methods used in the bakery benefit
the community. “On the face of it, baking using these methods doesn’t
make sense anymore,” he said. “As a business, it would be cheaper and
more efficient for us to make our products using more technology and
automated processes. But by doing so, we would be doing our customers
and colleagues – our community, a disservice.
Extending their range to create a delicious selection of biscuits, shortbreads
and oatcakes (including an organic variety) MacLean’s Bakery products are
now shipped all over the UK, and have a loyal following with customers for
whom distance is no object when it comes to fine food.
After expanding their main premises, located in Uachdar, the bakery
shop now includes a butchery department, bringing together some of
the excellent local produce found from around the islands. The butchery
serves up a full range of meats, including local goose and rabbit, venison,
and lamb reared on the family croft.
Located in the main village of Balivanich, with its unique split level café and
restaurant, The Stepping Stone is the perfect place to enjoy some of the
Ewen adds: “We are the first restaurant on the Eat Drink Hebrides
Trail to offer online booking, and hope customers will enjoy the added
convenience it brings.”
Completing the MacLean’s family business in Balivanich, are the Takeaway
Shop at 41 Winfield Way, offering convenient options for breakfasts and
lunches on-the-go, and the Benbecula Airport Café.
Continuing on the Food trail, heading up to the Isle of North Uist you will
find Bayhead Shop, on the west side of the island.
finest food available locally, ranging from a quick coffee and a cake from
MacLean’s bakery, to a full evening meal, and everything in between.
The licensed store is an essential stop for daily papers and groceries, as
well for the Post Office and Filling Station. The hand-picked range offers
The excellent menu showcases dishes featuring delicious local meats and
fresh seafood. Diners at the Stepping Stone Restaurant over the summer
season will be treated to their Friday and Saturday evening’s menu centred
around local produce.
Allan’s brother Ewen, who works as Head Chef in the restaurant, says:
“These evenings in particular will be an excellent opportunity for us to
highlight the best in Hebridean produce. The menu will vary, so every
weekend there will be something new to try.”
Ready for another busy season, The Stepping Stone Restaurant recently
launched an online facility for customers to check availability and
book a table directly from their computer, tablet or smart phone via
www.eatdrinkhebrides.co.uk.
Takeaway
Monday to Saturday 9am - 3pm
41 Winfield Way
Balivanich, Isle of
Benbecula HS7 5LH
T: 07787 186500
37
the perfect fusion of day-to-day grocery essentials and the very best in
local produce. Speaking in English or Gaelic, the knowledgeable and
friendly staff can help guide you around the packed shelves, highlighting
the extensive range of local products on offer, including those from Salar
Smokehouse, Kallin Shellfish, Hebridean Smokehouse, MacLean’s Bakery,
Barra Atlantic, Hebridean Brewery and the local meats prepared in the
store’s own butchery.
Project Manager Fraser MacCorquodale is delighted the business is
part of the Eat Drink Hebrides Trail. “Being listed on Trail conveys our
commitment to using local produce across our whole business,” he said.
“It’s an excellent project as in the Western Isles, we are lucky enough to
have so many great products made right on our doorstep. As a business,
our unique set-up as a producer, place to eat and place to buy Hebridean
products means we truly do offer our customers a taste of the islands.”
For more details about the Eat Drink Hebrides Trail, MacLean’s
Bakery, The Stepping Stone Restaurant and Bayhead Shop, visit
www.eatdrinkhebrides.co.uk.
STe PPiN g
S T
N e
R e STAURANT
a raised licensed restaurant
an informal café area
Balvanich, Benbecula, Western Isles
t: 01870 603377 e: [email protected]
38
HEB
| Issue 15 | 2016
Summer Opening Hours:
Monday to Saturday 11am to 8pm
Sunday 12 to 8pm
www.eatdrinkhebrides.co.uk
TheSteppingStoneRestaurant
| The sheltered bay by the deserted
village on Mingulay
enJoyIng
The Islands…
by land and sea
Whether it’s an action-packed day of adventure or an exploration of
flora and fauna, the landscapes and shores of the Western Isles offer a
playground like no other.
Land or sea, action or reflection, from the Butt of Lewis to the Isle of
Barra, visitors can find something available to add an extra ‘wow’ to their
island experience.
And what’s found can often be something of a surprise for visitors – such as
the £250,000 Olympic-scale Harris Gun Club range, tucked away within
the woods of Aline Forest, on the road between Stornoway and Tarbert.
Dating back to the early 1900s, the Harris Gun Club is one of the oldest
on the isles and offers the region’s widest variety of clay target shooting
with a range of Olympic disciplines catered for, including Double Trap.
Open to both competitive and recreational shooters of all ages and
abilities, and registered with the Scottish Clay Target Association (SCTA),
the Club ensures that there is always a SCTA Trained Range Safety Officer
on hand when it’s open.
And already historic, the club made further history in 2015 when it
hosted the Scottish Clay Target Association’s Scottish Universal Trench
Championships.
For those seeking further adventure, there’s no shortage of local instructors
and guides ready and waiting to share their island secrets.
In Castlebay, Isle of Barra, Clearwater Paddling’s Chris and Katie
Denehy provide twenty-years of kayaking experience with a host of
different packages and activities; from sea kayaking tours of Barra and
neighbouring islands to wild camping kayak tours, kayak day trips,
coasteering adventures and a chance to snorkel with seals for a day.
(www.clearwaterpaddling.com)
Moving north through the Hebrides and Benbecula Freedive and Fitness
(www.freedive-uk.com) also offers sea based activities with personal
trainer and guide Tom Rossi, including snorkelling and freediving.
Visitors can also explore on land and in sea with the mountain biking Ride/
Dive combo; catch dinner spear-fishing; or find out what happens under
the waves day or night with dusk snorkels, night dives and wild swimming;
as well as boat trips and seal spotting.
And in Lochmaddy, North Uist, the Uist Outdoor Centre (www.
uistoutdoorcentre.co.uk) boasts a Nordkapp Trust ‘expedition centre’
accreditation – one of only two found in the UK, and one of eight worldwide
– which recognises centres of excellence in unique sea kayaking areas.
39
| West Harris and Lewis seen from a highpoint on the Isle of Scarp
Principal instructor Niall Johnston can take visitors snorkelling, powerboating
and rubber tubing; along with rock climbing and abseiling activities, and hill
and coastal-guided walks give the chance to spot some of the islands wildlife.
Similarly, the Scaladale Centre (www.scaladale-centre.co.uk) in
Ardvourlie, Isle of Harris, has a wealth of outdoor activities, both wet and
dry, to keep the whole family entertained during a visit to the Western Isles.
Owned and operated by the Lewis and Harris Youth Club’s Association,
the popular Centre not only takes groups and individuals abseiling,
kayaking, coasteering, rock-climbing, and mountain biking; but also
presents gorge scrambling activities, raft building, dingy sailing, power boat
trips and a chance to try archery.
And in the southern end of Harris, situated at the Pier in Leverburgh,
the Harris Outdoor Adventure Centre also offers opportunities for island
visitors.
With the Sound of Harris on its doorstep, the Centre is ideally located for
guided kayak and canoe trips to explore the local coastline. And it provides
archery lessons. You can also sail on land as the Centre offers wind-karting
SEA LEWIS
Engebret Ltd, Sandwick Road, Stornoway
T: 01851702303 Mob: 07900605405
www.sealewis.co.uk
Sea Lewis offers private boat
charter along the east coast of
Lewis, particularly out to the
Shiant Isles.
ip
2 hour sightseeing tr
East coast of
Travel down the
the Witches
and
rvig
Lewis to Ma
enery and the
Pool. Stunning sc
th Golden and
bo
chance to see
. On a calm day
White tailed eagles
lihood of seeing
like
d
there is a goo
and of course
porpoise or dolphin,
ch some fish.
cat
to
the opportunity
40
HEB
| Issue 15 | 2016
Based in Stornoway, our
boats visit many spectacular
locations. From May onwards
an abundance of sea and birdlife appear including gannets,
kittiwakes, skuas, guillemots
and the ever popular puffins.
We have regular appearances
from porpoises and dolphins,
with minke whales and basking
sharks, too.
For those interested in fishing we can offer you the
chance to catch mackerel and will make sure you take
enough away for your evening meal.
We are also available for commercial work, and are happy
to discuss your individual requirements
CAMPERVAN
HOOK-UPS
SEILEBOST, ISLE OF HARRIS
AVAILABLE FROM APRIL-SEPT
WWW.WESTHARRISTRUST.ORG
CALL 01859 550457
North Harris Ranger
Guided Walks 2016
| Shags and other seabirds on the rocky coast of Point, Isle of lewis
– or ‘X-Sailing’ – sessions along the vast plains of
nearby Scarista beach; and taking to the Harris
hills couldn’t be easier with mountain bike hire
also available. (www.harrisoutdoor.co.uk)
In the Isle of Lewis, Derek Macleod of
Hebridean Surf (www.hebrideansurf.co.uk)
offers lessons for beginners, novice surfers and
those of an advanced level, as well as equipment
hire. And as well as delivering lessons and
equipment hire, SurfLewis (www.surflewis.
co.uk), run by local experienced instructor
Rodney ‘Cheggs’ Jamieson, also offers Stand-Up
Paddleboard tours and instruction – a fantastic
way to explore the island coastlines.
Stornoway-based Segway Hebrides (www.
segwayhebrides.com) are the folks to see for
an experience that’s a little bit difference, whether
it be a Segway tour of Lews Castle Grounds, or
further afield for a bit of off-road Segwaying as
part of the company’s adventure tours.
Alternatively, why not step back a bit in time and
explore the islands on horseback? The Lochside
Arena (www.lochsidearena.org), just outside
Stornoway in Lewis, can help with any horserelated enquiries; and in East Camp, Balivanich,
on the Isle of Benbecula, Uist Community Riding
School (www.ridehebrides.org) is the home
of horse and pony riding in Uist, Benbecula and
Barra.
And finding your way through the Western
Isles by bike just got a bit easier as the new
Hebridean Cycle Way was launched in March
this year by record-breaking adventurer and
cyclist Mark Beaumont, who completed the
challenge of cycling the length of the island chain
in just 24hours.
The 185mile route passes through 10 islands,
linked by a combination of causeways and
ferries, as it covers the landscapes from Vatersay
in the south to the Butt of Lewis in the north.
The mobile bike repair workshop of
BeSpoke Bicycle Repairs and Upgrades
(www.bespokebicycles.net) are on hand
within Lewis and Harris to assist in any bike-
breakdowns.
And throughout the Western Isles, the
opportunity to hire a cycle – for anything from a
few hours to a few days – is available through a
number of operators, including Barra Bike Hire
(www.barrabikehire.co.uk); Rothan Cycles
(www.rothan.scot) in South Uist, and Bike &
Hike Hebrides (www.bikehebrides.com) in
Lewis and Harris.
Bike & Hike Hebrides
also have a range of
sit-on-top kayaks for
hire, and operator Jonny
Murray can be on hand
to give guidance and help
plan and guide hiking
tours and trips within the
Outer Hebrides.
It may be argued that
exploring on foot is one
of the best ways to get
a real sense of place –
and the knowledge and
experience of a local
guide can often make
sure you get the most
from your visit.
Harris resident Mike
Briggs, of Mike Briggs
Sport, is one such hill
walking guide – and
from his and wife
Peggy’s home in
Bunabhainneadar,
Harris, the couple also
offer yoga, Swiss ball
and pilates classes; as
well as running the
most remote tennis
court in Britain! (www.
mikeandpeggybriggs.
co.uk)
Continued on Page 42
The North Harris Trust is providing a
programme of guided walks throughout North
Harris over the Spring, Summer and Autumn.
Pick up a programme from the Tarbert Tourist
Information Office or visit www.north-harris.org
For more information contact [email protected] or call the office on 01859502222
Harris Mountain Festival
2016
3rd-10th September 2016
Join us in a week long celebration of the
Mountains of Harris. A packed programme of
guided walks, talks, outdoor sports, boat trips,
workshops and much more!!
This year’s special guests include seven
summits climber, James Ogilvie and adventure
photographer and film maker Euan Ryan.
For enquires and bookings please contact
the North Harris Trust
Tel 01859 502 222 Email: [email protected]
www.north-harris.org
41
| Seals ashore near Pabbay off western Lewis, accessible via tours
by Seatrek
Continued from Page 41
Out and About Tours (www.tourguide-hebrides.co.uk), run by
Chris Ryan and based in Great Bernera, offer not only walking tours,
but also coach party sightseeing trips; and Hebridean Excursions
(www.hebrideanexcursions.co.uk) deliver both full and half-day tours
of Lewis, Harris, the Uists and Barra.
if lucky, spot marine wildlife like basking sharks,
porpoises, puffins, gannets, dolphins and seals.
On the west coast of Lewis, Islands of Adventure
(www.islands-of-adventure.co.uk) operates
from Great Bernera with a high-class speedboat,
15m fishing boat, sailing yacht ‘Shangri-La’, and
Kingfisher 26 Lobster creel boat all available for
visitors.
A constant draw for both visitors and island
residents is the UNESCO World Dual Heritage
Site of the St Kilda archipelago. Sea Harris
(www.seaharris.com), operating from
Leverburgh takes visitors to St Kilda with their
vessel ‘Enchanted Isle.’
Operating from Uig, Isle of Lewis, Seatrek boasts
two nine metre RIBs (rigid inflatable boats), the
‘Seatrek 2’ and ‘Connachar,’ as well as Interceptor
42 vessel ‘Lochlann’ which ventures to St Kilda and
the Flannan Isles. To find out more, check out the
Seatrek website at www.seatrek.co.uk.
And also operating from Maivaig pier, Uig, is Island
Cruising (www.island-cruising.com) whose
converted fishing vessel mv Cuma is owned
and skippered by Murdo ‘Murdanie’ Macdonald. The mv Cuma was
initially constructed for scientific marine research, but later converted and
upgraded for commercial diving and cruising charters.
And based in Tarbert, Isle of Harris, there is Kilda Cruises
(www.kildacruises.co.uk) which runs constant boat trips to St Kilda and
can also provide trips to other islands such as the Shiant Isles, the Flannan
Isles, Rona and the Monach Isles
Community owned and run, The North Harris Trust
(www.northharris.org) ensure visitors get to see the very best of the Harris
landscape and wildlife with a series of guided walks – including stops at the
North Harris Eagle Observatory to spot some of the 20 Golden Eagle pairs
residing in the area, as well as sometimes catching a glimpse of Sea Eagles. The
remote and rugged natural landscapes of the Western Isles are home to a wide
range of wild and birdlife, as well as a plethora of moorland plants.
Merlins, golden plovers, greenshanks, stonechats, wheatears, red
grouse and ravens are regularly seen in the island skies, and on
land popular spots include mountain hares, red deer and otters
to name but a few native mammals. Hebrides Wildwatch Tours
(www.hebrideswildwatch.co.uk) are run by two locals with a massive
interest in all things wild – Russell Hird and Iain Watson – and the pair
take clients on three or five hour walking tours; the destination of which is
usually determined by what species visitors wish to see.
Meanwhile tour guide Maggie Smith, from Achmore, Lewis, is ready
to share her local knowledge of Gaelic, island culture and stories with
those interested in finding out more, as well as offering photography
tuition; and Dr Carol Knott, from Point, Lewis, is a specialist
archaeological tour guide. More information on both can be found at
www.visitouterhebrides.co.uk.
Dave Godwin, of Dave’s Hebridean Archaeological Tours
(www.hebrideanarchaeologicaltours.com) also offers private tours of
sites of interest in Lewis and Harris for up to six people, with a Land-Rover
110 ensuring tourists can reach some of the more off-the-beaten track
destinations. Uist tours can also be arranged through Dave.
But back to the sea and Barra Fishing Charters
(www.barrafishingcharters.com) run by Donald B Macleod,
gives the chance of private charters, neighbouring island trips, and
wildlife spotting tours, as well as fishing trips. South Uist Fishing
(www.southuistfishing.com) are able to give information about
the best spots for hill and machair fishing, as well as sea pool fishing in
Benbecula. And North Uist Angling Club (www.nuac.co.uk) can ensure
‘tight-lines’ for visitors to the islands.
42
Hebridean Fish ‘n’ Trips (www.hebridesfishntrips) is operated by Lewis
MacKenzie, delivering private charters for up to five people along the east
coast of Lewis with fishing for sustainable species Pollack and Mackerel; as
well as the chance to lift lobster pots, visit mussel and salmon farms and,
HEB
| Issue 15 | 2016
| The cliffs on the Atlantic coast of Mingulay…accessible by boats
from Castlebay, Isle of Barra
“Our new boat is a Stormforce
1650, and we got her custom built
specifically for the St.Kilda day trip
from Redbay Boats in Northern
Ireland,” Seumas said. “She is a
far better boat, with a much better
design and a hull that is more suited
to the conditions we encounter.”
St Kilda is target for
seumas
“She can cope really well in bad
weather, not that we want to
be taking passengers out in bad
weather!” At 16.5 metres, she is
also bigger than her predecessor,
and the new vessel, which
maintains the Sea Harris name
‘Enchanted Isle’, is also proving to
be very economical.
The large air-conditioned cabin
has comfy aircraft style seating for
12 passengers, arranged in pairs
down each side of the cabin, plus
toilet facilities. Visibility is excellent
through the large windows.
Day trips to St Kilda, which include
at least four-and-a-half hours ashore
to view Hirta, are available until
September 24, always subject to
sea conditions.
“We have done trips to the Shiants in
the past, but this year we are going to
focus mainly on St Kilda,” he added.
“We will still do private charters for
anyone who wants one, but St Kilda
is where our tours will be.”
It’s fair to say the year 2015 was
one to forget for Hebridean
boat-operators. In fact, Seumas
Morrison, of Sea Harris, says the
weather made it the worst he has
ever experienced.
“Without a shadow of a doubt, last
year was the worst,” he said. “We
were only out five times in May.
That’s unheard of.”
Not getting out to sea was
particularly frustrating for Seumas,
as he had just taken delivery of a
brand new boat. But thankfully,
the bookings for 2016 are coming
in thick and fast. And thanks to
the comfort of his new vessel, a
trip to St Kilda is now a pleasant
experience for even the most
weak-spirited sailor.
The ‘Enchanted Isle’ can now leave
Leverburgh pier at 8am, arriving in
Village Bay, Hirta, at 10.30am.
JOIN SEA HARRIS ON A DAY TRIP
TO ST. KILDA – THE ISLANDS ON
THE EDGE OF THE WORLD
This volcanic archipelago with its spectacular landscapes is situated 50 miles west from Leverburgh in the Isle
of Harris. St.Kilda was home to an Island community who until 1930, survived the inhospitable conditions here
for thousands of years. The cliffs of Boreray and it’s Stacs are the highest in the UK, are home to one of the
world’s largest colonies of northern gannets and are a truly magnificent sight.
St. Kilda is one of only 32 locations in the world, and the ONLY one in the UK, to be awarded dual world heritage
status for natural and cultural heritage by UNESCO.
Departing from Leverburgh, experience this incredible place for yourself on the trip of your life.
Upon arrival at St.Kilda, passengers can explore the island and its haunting remains of the village at their
leisure, or the more adventurous can head for the hills for spectacular views and gaze down at the sea below
from the highest sea cliffs in Europe.
No visit to St.Kilda is complete without the breathtaking tour of Boreray and it’s Stacs. This is the highlight of
the St.Kilda trip and Sea Harris excel at ensuring this is a once in a lifetime passenger experience.
Booking is essential, so call or book online now to reserve your place on the Enchanted Isle, our new vessel
custom built for the St.Kilda day trips in 2015 - We look forward to welcoming you aboard!
Tel: 01859 502007
Mob: 07760216555
Book online 24/7 at www.seaharris.com
43
gordon takes
to the waves with
new boat service
Stornoway Seafari is the brainchild
of Gordon Maclean, who admits to
having the sea in his blood, having
been brought up with a love of the
local coastline and all the exciting
things it has hidden within its waters.
In January of this year, Gordon
took ownership of his brand
new ‘Our Lilly’ XS RIB. This
features a 300hp Mercury Verado
supercharged engine, has a top
speed of 45 knots and has an
average cruising speed of 20-25
knots with a 200-mile range.
The vessel can accommodate
12 passengers and 2 crew.
“I worked offshore up until four
months ago, when I was paid off
due to the slump in oil prices,”
said Gordon. “I have two skipper
licences, and for years I had wanted
to set up a boat charter company, so
I decided that the time was right to
just go for it.”
Stornoway Seafari currently offers
three set rate trips as follows:
1 hour trips at a rate of £20 per
person include Loch Erisort,
Witches Pool , Loch Leurbost and
Loch Grimshader; 2 hour trips at
a rate of £40 per person include
Loch Grimishader, Loch Leurbost,
A new boat charter service
operating out of Stornoway offers
passengers a unique look at the
stunning wildlife of the Hebrides.
Loch Erisort,
Kebock Head
and the village
of Gravir in
Loch Odhairn;
and 3 hour
trips at a rate
of £60 per
person include
the Shiant Isles,
Eilean Glas
Lighthouse
(Scalpay), Mollinginish,
Loch Bhallamus, Loch Shell and
Loch Erisort.
“According to the Hebridean Whale
and Dolphin Trust, the best place
to see sharks, dolphins, whales and
otters is off the Point coastline,” said
Gordon.
“Our trips to the small deserted
villages on the way to the Shiant
Isles have already been very wellreceived. These wee places are
really beautiful.”
The Western Isles boast some of
the most magnificent and dramatic
coastlines in Scotland. The most
enjoyable way to view them is,
of course, from the water itself.
Stornoway Seafari Ltd. is here to help
you do just that.
We are a small professional sea
tour operator, run by an extremely
experienced skipper and based in
Stornoway on the Isle of Lewis in
the Outer Hebrides.
Our services include wildlife/
coastal tours that run seasonally
between 1st April and 31st
October and commercial/personal
charters which are available 24/7.
Our vessel is a brand new XS 850
rib, which is MCA (Maritime &
Coastguard Agency) coded for 12
passengers and 2 crew.
www.StornowaySeafari.com
www.facebook.com/StornowaySeafari.info
Tel: 0800 246 5609
44
email: [email protected]
HEB
| Issue 15 | 2016
While the ‘Our Lilly’ accommodates
a maximum of 12 passengers and
one crew, the chances are high
that those on board will be joined
on their tour by numerous other
guests. Gordon explained: “We
recently took a trip out to the
Shiants and we were followed the
whole way by a pod of Risso’s
dolphins. It was an incredible
experience and everyone on board
was blown away by it.”
Children are allowed to travel with
Stornoway Seafari, on the condition
that they are five-years-old or over,
and any child aged between five
and 12 must be accompanied by an
adult.
“We provide all the safety gear and
wet-weather clothing,” said Gordon.
And as well as targeting the wildlifespotting market, Gordon is also
making his services available to any
commercial interests who may
require a RIB at short notice.
“For a quote please get in touch
via our free phone number
0800 246 5609 or email us at
[email protected],”
he added.
FINSBAY FISHINGS
Fishing available in Hebridean
tidal and hill lochs on the
Isle of Harris. Excellent wild
brown trout are to be had as
well as the possibility of sea
trout and salmon with optional
accommodation in our Chalets,
Arran, Coll and Inver each sleep
(6), Two Waters Lodge (12) and
Cliff Cottage (6).
Telephone for brochure: 100 Loch Fishings
Tel: 07795 244997 www.finsbaycottages.co.uk
Linking
The Islands
by sea
| The ‘bridge over the Atlantic’ between Lewis and Great Bernera
by | Fred Silver
Despite having lived on the Isle of Lewis for almost 25 years, I still have
done relatively few boat trips…yet travelling by boat makes the Islands
understandable in a way that little else can.
The old way of life on the Isle of Eriskay was once recalled for me by the
late Father Calum Maclellan, parish priest there for many years. Then the
constant availability of boats, and the limited quality of roads, meant the
island was very close to its neighbours on South Uist but the modern era
of fixed ferries and safety regulations, prior to the building of the causeway,
left it almost isolated. Equally, the Outer Hebrides were linked throughout
history to the other islands like Skye and to the mainland, so a family
connection between northern Barra and Arisaig, which I came across in a
story about the origin of Long John Silver, was quite normal.
road distance between Bernera and Uig is quite misleading as the route
loops away from the coast.
Equally, the coast can appear quite different from what you might expect –
the Point area of Lewis seems quite flat and relatively low-lying if you drive
across it by car, but if you were to take a trip with Sea Lewis or Stornoway
St Kilda
day cruise,
Flannan Isles, Scarp or Wildlife
Expedition on board our luxury
motor cruiser Lochlann
But governed as we are now by roads, when I went out to the Island of
Taransay, I was baffled that we set out from Ardhasaig in Harris. Surely
Taransay was just off the coast of Luskentyre much further south. Well
it is, but it is almost as close to North Harris as well – the road to
Leverburgh loops a long way to the east on its way south.
Lochlann day cruises
Scarp/Loch Resort Excursion (6hrs)
Wildlife Watching Expedition (5.5hrs)
Flannans Expedition (5.5hrs)
St Kilda Cruise (12hrs)
Similarly when I went on one of the regular sea tours offered by Seatrek
from the pier at Miavaig in Uig, west Lewis, I was surprised to find us
quickly passing under the pioneering Great Bernera bridge – again the
Let the adventure begin!
Try any of our trips
for a great family experience
with the opportunity of seeing
seals, basking sharks, dolphins
and many species of birds.
Leaving from Miavaig
Harbour, Uig, Isle of Lewis.
Seatrek RIB short trips
Sea Eagles & Lagoon Trip (2hrs)
Island Excursion (3hrs)
Customised Trips (4 hours)
Fishing Trips (2 hours)
Gallan Head Trek (2hrs)
Sea Stacks Trip (2hrs)
Tel:01851 672469
www.seatrek.co.uk
[email protected]
45
| The busy Miavaig jetty and port in west Lewis, base for Seatrek
Seafari along its Minch coastline out of Stornoway, a dramatic coastline of
cliffs, caves and craggy bays can be seen.
Unexpectedly, if you want organised boat trips to unusual islands, it is the
Islands Book Trust that could be your first port of call. For instance, they
are running a boat trip to the Shiant Isles in June, 2016. It’s on Saturday
18th, 09.30–17.30 at a cost of £75 per person. Places must be booked
in advance through Eventbrite only – either through the book trust
website or at www.eventbrite.co.uk
I have been on excellent Island Boat Trust trips to Ensay in the Sound
of Harris and to Scarp, off north Harris. For both occasions the boat
transport was provided by Seatrek, who deal with one-off hires as well
as regular trips. For Scarp in summer 2015, with around 80 people to
transport back and forth across from Hushinish, they effectively set up a
ferry service for the day.
Seatrek offers a range of boat trips around the Uig coast, and as far as
St Kilda. There are wildlife trips, special charters and family trips.
Islands Book Trust, Laxay Hall, Laxay, Isle of Lewis, HS2 9PJ
www.islandsbooktrust.org || [email protected] || 01851 830 316
46
I went on one popular trip which leaves the jetty at Miavaig, in Uig, most days
throughout the summer (with the exception of Sunday) weather permitting.
Heading out into Loch Roag and past the village of Reef, you may see sea
eagles and otters, then you head for the sweeping length of Traigh na Berie
towards the island of Siaram, then on to Pabbay Mor, slowing down to
explore the amazing depths of the sea-caves, before going round the north
end of Pabbay to see its impressive natural arch and spectacular lagoon
surrounded by sandy beaches.
On your return journey, you stop off to see the seals and lift a couple of
lobster pots to check the day’s catch, a highlight of the trip, especially for
younger passengers. I have also been out to Pabbay by canoe and that is also
spectacular.
Everyone talks about St Kilda – Seatrek can take you there, too – and
I have been there twice with Kilda Cruises. Hirta is a really special place…but
if you want to go to a less publicised island with an abandoned village around
a sandy bay, one with vast cliffs on the other side of the island, one which the
population left a century ago, then try Mingulay…a little more than an hours
trip from Castlebay, Isle of Barra. Mingulay – occasional summer home of the
artist Julie Brook – is an overlooked gem.
But for city dwellers, the two inter-island CalMac ferries on the Sound of
Harris and the Sound of Barra can be quite amazing, particularly the last
ferry of the day across from Eriskay to Ard Mhor on Barra. On a sunny,
summer’s evening, lingering on a seat out on deck can sweep you away
to oceanic imaginings of the past sea roads of the Isles.
HEB
| Issue 15 | 2016
| Memories of past
habitation on Scarp…
part of the main village
| Memories of past habitation on Scarp…
including an old phonebox
Maorach An Eilein
ISLANDER SHELLFISH
Cromwell Street Quay,
Stornoway, Isle of Lewis
tel: 01851 706 772
[email protected]
Fresh Quality Seafood
Fresh Local Fish
Hot Smoked Salmon
Salmon Pate
Cooked Prawns
Cooked Crabmeat
Haddock - Adag
Cod - Trosg
Salmon - Bradan
Whiting - Cuiteag
Shellfish - Maorach
| Island Book Trust visitors to Scarp in 2015 hear memories and histories of Scarp from
Donald John Macinnes and Calum J Mackay
●
●
●
●
●
Tuesday-Wednesday 8am- 5pm
Thursday-Friday 8am- 5.30pm Saturday 8am-1pm
Window Cleaning
Power Washing
Gutter Cleaning
Cardboard Recycling
Harris Tweed Clocks
www.hebridesalpha.co.uk Tel: 01851 705054
www.harristweedclock.co.uk
A social enterprise helping individuals with alcohol and drug addiction problems
47
The challenge of
st kilda
The sailors’ adventure of 2016 takes place in
June as the first St Kilda Challenge marks the
30th anniversary of the UK’s only dual World
Heritage Site receiving official status.
The St Kilda Challenge, taking place from June
9th to 11th, sees yachts race it out to cover
around 100 nautical miles to the St Kilda islands
and back again within 24 hours.
Remnants of a long extinct volcano in the North
Atlantic ocean, the St Kilda archipelago is made
up of a number of islands, islets and stacks, and
was populated up until 1930 when the last
remaining people were evacuated.
The remotest part of the British Isles, the
exceptional cliffs and sea stacs form the most
important seabird breeding station in North
West Europe and are home to the largest colony
of Fulmars in the British Isles.
Stories surrounding the islands and its people
have fascinated for generations and for many
yachtsmen and women, the distant St Kilda isles
are a long-held dream destination.
“For a lot of people a trip to St Kilda is on the
bucket list as it were, they are such high profile
islands,” said George MacDonald of St Kilda
Challenge yacht race organisers Comann na
Mara.
“The race will also be challenging to many of
the crews with racers having to race overnight.
That’s unusual in yacht races and will deliver that
extra challenge to competitors.”
The inaugural event has been initiated by
Comann na Mara (The Society of the Sea),
the Lochmaddy based marine society and is
the vision of their chairman Gus Macaulay, a
former film producer, who returned to the
islands several years ago and has spearheaded a
number of the Society’s recent projects.
The organisation was originally formed by the
late Dr John MacLeod, who ran North Uist
Medical Practice for 27 years, to establish an
Eco-Friendly Aquatic Education Marine Research
facility at Loch nam Madadh (Lochmaddy Bay),
subsequently recognised as a Marine Special
Area of Conservation.
Comann na Mara was instrumental in the
creation of Lochmaddy Marina, opened to
48
HEB
| Issue 15 | 2016
visiting boats last year, and is a recognised leader
in the creation of community-led events.
Sailing’s governing body RYA Scotland and the
Scottish Sailing Institute, which specialises in the
organisation of national and international events
in Scottish waters, are closely involved in the
St Kilda Challenge project, which attracted prime
sponsor backing of ferry company Caledonian
MacBrayne.
“The St Kilda Challenge is an exciting new event
and CalMac is proud to be prime sponsor,” said
CalMac’s Marketing Manager Peter Griffiths.
“The combination of this unique yacht race to
the remote archipelago combined with a festival
atmosphere of cultural events at Lochmaddy
promises to be a fantastic opportunity. I am
sure it will draw the crowds and we are looking
forward to being part of it.”
Collaboration partners on the event advisory
board also include Ocean Youth Trust Scotland –
a world leading youth work charity delivering
residential youth work sailing voyages – as
well as Sail Scotland, and the National Trust for
Scotland and Scottish Natural Heritage that,
together with the Ministry of Defence, work
in partnership to care and maintain the St Kilda
archipelago.
And support for the epic race also comes from
Highlands and Islands Enterprise; the University
of St Andrews; Comhairle nan Eilean Siar; Harris
Tweed, and Harris Distillery; as well as maritime
organisations like the RNLI and Coastguard.
The St Kilda Challenge begins with the arrival
of the fleet in Lochmaddy Marina on Thursday,
June 9th.
Competition is expected to be stiff, as George
continued: “Indications are that we’ll have a
significant number of yachts competing as we’ve
had expressions of interest up into the high 60s
at the moment.”
He added: “The hope is that we attract a lot
of new people to visit the Western Isles and
Lochmaddy Marina; and the aim is to make it an
annual event.”
The St Kilda Challenge also offers the chance for
non-racing yachts to visit St Kilda as the event
incorporates a Cruise-in-Company flotilla, giving
added measures of comfort and security by
sailing alongside others.
And the adventure also offers a chance to stop
off and set foot on the main St Kilda island of
Hirta.
| Media representatives, friends and family greet the St Kilda swimmers at Hushinish
For those
remaining onshore
in the Western
Isles, there’s plenty
to be keeping
busy with through
an onshore
programme
of events and
treats taking
place throughout
Lochmaddy during
the three-day
event.
Further information
about the inaugural
St Kilda Challenge
can be found at
www.calmac.
co.uk/stkilda/
challenge
The St Kilda Swim Team
made history in summer
2015 when, swimming
in relay formation, they
became the first people
to successfully swim from
St Kilda to the Isle of Harris.
| Ashore at last…the swimmers from St Kilda to Harris celebrate their successful journey
Meanwhile, St
Kilda Swim Team
was crowned ‘Team of the Year’ at the National
Adventure Awards ceremony, held in the Grand
Central Hotel, Glasgow, on March 16th.
Swim Team captain Colin S Macleod and
Swimmer John Dyer attended the awards
ceremony and were delighted to be presented
with the ‘Team of the Year’ award.
The National Adventure Awards celebrate the
very best of adventure across England, Wales
and Scotland. And the St Kilda Team were one
of seven adventure groups shortlisted in the
Team of the Year category – including a team of
British para climbers who tackled the Eiger and
a father and son team who canoed the rivers of
the Yukon.
an clachan
An Clachan, Leverburgh, Isle of Harris HS5 3TS
Tel: 01859 520370
Accompanied by three
support kayakers and
support vessel mv Cuma
from Island Cruising, the
swim team left Hirta at
4am on Monday, August
17th, 2015 and landed
on Hushinish slipway just
after 3pm on Tuesday,
August 18th – taking only
35 hours to finish a swim
that had been postponed
three times from May to
July last year due to bad
weather.
During the challenge, the
team were joined by a
large pod of dolphins, and swimmer John Dyer
encountered a 25ft Minke whale.
The feat was completed to raise funds for
four charities – and donations of £5,772 were
presented to the Fishermen’s Mission; a total of
£5,621 to The Leanne Fund; Yorkhill Children’s
Charity was presented with £7,568; and £2,544
donated to the Aberlour Child Care Trust.
www.hebevents.com
The information hub
for the Hebrides
◆ Fresh Chilled & Frozen Foods
◆ Fruit & Vegetables
◆ Newspapers
◆ Petrol, Diesel,
Calor Gas & Coal
◆ DIY, Gardening &
Hardware Supplies
◆ Handmade Harris Tweed
Crafts & Giftshop
Open Monday to Thursday 9am to 6pm,
Friday & Saturday 9am to 7pm
DOWNLOAD
your FREE copy of
The HEB Magazine at
www.magazinehebrides.com
For people who love the Hebrides
49
keepIng
BeauTy
as a wonderful memory…
Suzan Visser-Offereins has been painting portraits of people for more
than 30 years. She says that from the start at home in The Netherlands:
“It was amazing how people opened up and told the story of who they
were. Their faces lightened up when telling about their work and lives,
their family, what they have loved so much.
“To me it is always a challenge and an honour to try to capture the being
of that person.”
She painted many children’s portraits, portraits of directors, less able
people, ballet dancers, and actors, but also she was honored with royal
commissions, like the Prince and Crown Prince of Kuwait, the Dutch
Royal Family and other ambassadors’ portraits. In 1998 Queen Beatrix
invited her to the Huis ten Bosch palace in The Hague and sat for
her. Suzan also fulfilled a large number of other royal and government
commissions. In 2005 she was commissioned to paint the present King
Willem-Alexander. The king invited her to his palace where he sat for her.
Both royal invitations left a deep impression. Suzan was invited to show
her work in several museums, palaces and art galleries and it found its way
all over the world.
A decade ago Suzan and her family decided to move to the Isle of Harris
where she still paints portraits in oil on linen from her home in Northton.
But now inspired by island landscapes, she also tries to capture the mood
and the light of the scenery.
She says: “Wildlife opens up a completely new challenge. In this work
it is still possible to sit still and sketch puffins from only two metres away.
They are not scared of man and are very curious birds.
“The unspoiled and empty white sandy beaches of Northton, Scarista
and Luskentyre, such amazing spectacular sea and landscapes. Dark and
moody skies opening up showing clear sharp light. Who does not want to
paint and keep its beauty as a wonderful memory?
“Imagine, it is a beautiful day, a day to go fishing for mackerel, smoked
and fresh on your plate within eight hours. Sailing out, you first spot seals
bathing on the rocks, and you hear them ‘talking’ to each other. Gannets
diving like spears in the water catching fish faster and better then humans,
a pair of cormorants flying over. Later in the day, when the tide is low, an
otter is swimming to the shore and you spot a golden eagle who is nesting
on ‘our’ hill…
“Don’t think this is extraordinary…this is a normal day.”
NORTHTON
GALLERY OPEN
WHEN THE
SIGN IS OUT,
or please call to
make
an appointment
13 Northton, Isle of Harris, South Harris, HS3 3JA
HARRIS ART GALLERY
Original Oil Paintings of Professional
Portrait Painter Suzan Visser
(Willem de Kooning Academy-Rotterdam)
Landscapes of Harris, also Sheep, Birds, Flowers.
My aim is to capture the atmosphere of a
landscape, the impression of a Golden Eagle in
flight, or the essence of a person, the laughter and
pureness of a child, the royal aura of a Queen.
Tel: 01859 520315 Email: [email protected]
www.harrisartgallery.com
50
HEB
| Issue 15 | 2016
Come and enjoy The Harris
Tapestry in An Clachan
Leverburgh, Harris
A thousand years of history are
brought to life on nine large wall
hangings made from Harris Tweed
FACT SHEETS COMPLETE THE DISPLAY
Original Paintings by
Debbie Cullis and Paul Smith
Prints with crafts and handmade
gifts by Debbie
All day snacks, teas and
home baking in a relaxed,
artistic environment
An Taobh Tuath, Isle of Harris
Co Leis Thu? Genealogy Research Service
for the Hebrides
Exhibitions
OPENING TIMES: Mon-Sat 10.00am-6.00pm
Painting Tuition and B&B accommodation
Puffin Nuffin
Island Arts Gallery and Coffee Shop
8 Balallan, Isle of Lewis
Tel: 01851 830742
[email protected]
www.saa.co.uk/art/islandarts
Books, CDs, Artworks
St Kildan and Hebridean Heritage
Open Monday to Saturday 10am to 5pm
01859520258
www.hebridespeople.com
Caolas Gallery
Harris Hebrides Photography
BLACK LAB GALLERY
Open Mon - Sat 10am - 6pm
Large selection of local
scenes on display, framed or
mounted in various sizes
Framing service available –
quick turnaround for orders
West Tarbert (on A859)
Isle of Harris HS3 3BG
Framed and Mounted Prints, Canvas, Calendars,
Greeting Cards, Harris Tweed Rugs, Cushions and Gifts
Wildwood Works
Tea Coffee and Yummy Cakes
Opening Hours: April to October
Monday to Friday 10.30 to 5.30 Saturday Noon to 4pm
Black Lab Gallery
Tarbert
11 Caolas Scalpaigh Isle of Harris
5 miles East of Tarbert shortly before the Scalpay Bridge
www.harrishebridesphotos.co.uk
01859 530344 07833 151683
51
café
with art and vistas…
Situated at Ardhasaig on the Isle of Harris, the
vistas open to visitors from Hebscape Gallery
and Tearoom are rivalled only by the fine art
landscape photography displayed within.
Overlooking West Loch Tarbert, with panoramic
views towards Taransay and the North Harris
mountains, Hebscape Gallery and Tearoom was
opened in 2014 by professional photographer
Darren Cole and partner Chris Griffiths.
Darren and Chris’s love affair with the Western
Isles began with their first visit in 2008, when
Darren was working as a photography tutor at
the University of the West of England in Bristol.
Over the next five years they both returned to
the isles periodically, with Darren building up
a collection of images and exploring different
locations.
And in 2013 Darren and Chris made the move
to relocate to Ardhasaig, with Hebscape opening
the following year.
Open, airy and spacious, the Gallery walls are
a delight to look around as Darren’s range of
images – from monochrome to colour, abstract
52
HEB
| Issue 15 | 2016
to digital illustrations – capture visitors’ interest.
High-quality prints, mounted and framed on-site,
are available to buy; and orders can usually be
fulfilled overnight. Greeting cards and Darren’s
photography book, both unique to the Gallery,
are also available to browse.
And the Gallery is complemented by the
Tearoom, run by Chris who trained as a
Master Baker and Confectioner, which offers
a welcome tea-stop for visitors to Harris, with
award-winning Suki leaf teas and Stornoway’s
Hebridean Tea Store teas to select from, along
with fresh gourmet barista coffee, and a variety
of freshly made cakes and scones.
Light meals, including hearty bowls of soup,
with home-made Scottish soda bread, and
home-made Stornoway hot smoked salmon
paté, farmhouse paté, cheese scones with
Orkney cheese, are also available to enjoy at the
Hebscape Gallery and Tearoom which is open
Tuesdays to Saturdays, 10.30am to 4.30pm
(meals served 12-2.30pm).
To find out more, please visit
www.hebscapegallery.co.uk
A project that brings people
together around a shared
interest in the history and
culture of the
Outer Hebrides.
An initiative that promotes
omotes
volunteering and develops
evelops
velops IT
skills within the community
community.
A unique website, bringing
ringing tens
of thousands of records
cords from
the islands’ historical societies
www.hebrideanconnections.com
53
Landscape and
light inspire
anthony
After 22 years in the Western Isles, artist Anthony Barber is still inspired
daily by his adopted home.
And with works previously exhibited at the National Gallery for Scotland
with the RSW (Royal Scottish Society of Painters in Watercolour) and the
RSA (Royal Scottish Academy); as well as at the Mall Galleries in London
through the RSMA (Royal Society of Marine Artists) and Discerning Eye
exhibitions, Anthony is delighted to showcase what he finds so fascinating
about island landscapes to a wider audience.
Born in Stoke-on-Trent in 1962, Anthony studied architecture and design in
West Yorkshire, pursuing his joy of sketching and painting both in Yorkshire
and whilst holidaying in Scotland’s various west coast islands.
His love of islands took over in 1994 with a move to the Isle of Lewis,
where he and his wife settled at Port of Ness.
“We’d regularly been to Skye and visited most of the islands down the
west coast, but the first time we came to Lewis, as clichéd as it sounds,
something just struck a chord,” he said.
“I think because it was so remote and far from the mainland compared to
others that it feels like a proper island as such; and for us it wasn’t just a
‘tourist’ island, but people lived and worked here.”
Harbour View Gallery
Port of Ness, Isle of Lewis
Work by Anthony J Barber
www.abarber.co.uk
54
e: [email protected] t: 01851 810735
HEB
| Issue 15 | 2016
Anthony continued: “It was the landscape and the light to begin with that
inspired me to paint up here – and that’s never changed. Even driving
through different areas of Lewis, the landscape differs so much, I’m never
stuck for inspiration.”
From his small studio gallery – Harbour View Gallery – based in Ness,
Anthony’s mainly acrylic creations have been sold to hang in private
collections in the UK, Europe, America and Australia.
And his prints and greeting cards are stocked in shops and galleries the
length and breadth of Britain.
Working from his open studio gallery however, Anthony finds interest
talking to visitors and is often left considering aspects of his art that he’d
never before considered.
ISLE of LEWIS
CHEESE
C O M PA N Y
Quality locally made cheeses
Available from Good Food Boutique,
Stornoway; and from An Clachan,
Leverburgh; and direct from the dairy
24 Vatisker, Back,
Isle of Lewis, HS2 0JS
www.IsleofLewisCheese.co.uk
Tel: 01851 820517
| Outside his gallery… Anthony amid his landscape
“It is interesting the things people say to you, things you’d never think yourself,” he said.
“One lady visiting the gallery for example commented on the colours I used and asked how many
different colours I’d use in a painting,” Anthony continued. “Well, that’s something I’d never thought
about before, so it got me thinking and it’s generally just five or seven different colours.
“Most people are very courteous when they visit and realise you’re working; but it’s people coming in
while I’m working, saying certain things that make me think more about what I’m doing.
Beautiful giftware and local arts and crafts
21 Habost, Ness, Isle of Lewis HS2 0TG
Open Monday-Saturday 10.30am-5.30pm
Tiger textiles by Alison Macleod
He added: “And I think for visitors and customers, people like to buy directly from the artist. It gives
people a chance to meet and see how I work as an artist.”
Textile designs and artwork by Alison
Macleod Bdes Hons (textiles), a textile
designer from the Isle of Lewis
[email protected]
tel: 07787924240
www.tigertextiles.co.uk
Commissions Welcome
Only a 40-minute drive from Stornoway on the A857 Stornoway to Port of Ness road, Anthony’s
Harbour View Gallery is open from Monday to Saturday from March through to October, and by
appointment at other times.
And to find out more about Anthony and his works, primarily based on the Highlands and Islands of
Scotland, West Coast and Hebrides in particular, visit www.abarber.co.uk
W.J. MacDonald Macleod
& Macleod
Family Butcher since 1931
One of the oldest established family run businesses in the
Western Isles. Stornoway Black Pudding means only one
thing: W J Macdonald Family Butcher. We have been
making our world famous black pudding here in the
Outer Hebrides of Scotland for over 70 years.
5 Francis Street, Stornoway
Tel: 01851 702077
www.wjmacdonald.com
OWN MAKE
SWEETCURE BACON
TryourBeef,cheese &
spring onion burgers!
Cross Stores
…keeping everything local
Butcher • Greengrocer • Provisions • Liquor • Hardware
Fully stocked country store,well worth a visit,
a deli counter bursting with locally sourced food
and snacks, drinks, sweets and gifts.
A friendly local shop and butchery, producing the
renowned Ness black pudding and sausages.
7 Cross Skigersta Road, Ness, Isle of Lewis HS2 0TD
Tel: 01851 810241
www.facebook.com/crossstores/
17 Church Street Stornoway
Tel: 01851 703 384
OPENING HOURS: MONDAY-FRIDAY :
7.30am – 5.30pm, SATURDAY: 7am – 5.30pm
45 Westview Terrace
Tel: 01851 705242
OPENING HOURS: MONDAY-TUESDAY:
7.30am – 1pm, 2pm – 5.30pm WEDNESDAY – CLOSED
THURSDAY-FRIDAY-SATURDAY: 7.30am – 5.30pm
www.macleodandmacleod.co.uk
Ropework Park
Stornoway
Isle of Lewis
HS1 2LB
Tel: 01851 702 445
charlesmacleod.co.uk
A taste of the Outer Hebrides
Charles Macleod
Stornoway Black Pudding
55
| Maggie Cunningham
“I’ve always loved radio. Radio is really my first
love,” says Maggie Cunningham, Chair of MG
Alba, the organisation which manages the BBC
Alba channel in partnership with the BBC. Born
in 1955, she grew up on the Isle of Scalpay
when televisions were scarce – but her family
had a radio.
But despite her early and enduring love of radio,
Maggie entered broadcasting almost by accident:
she applied for an Inverness-based producer’s
role at the BBC while she was working as a
newly qualified teacher in Tiree, after having
completed a Bachelor’s of Education at the
University of Glasgow.
“When we were students, we used to do some
work for Gaelic schools broadcasting, we used
to do voices and stuff like that, so I suppose I did
know a bit about broadcasting,” says Maggie,
whose first language is Gaelic. “I wouldn’t say
that I planned anything really, I just saw a job and
I applied for it. It was as simple as that.” She
admits she knew early on that teaching wasn’t
for her “so I suppose in that sense I was kind
of thinking ‘What else should I be thinking of
doing?’”
As well as her role as a broadcaster and
journalist, Maggie has held multiple senior
positions within BBC Scotland, including
Head of Radio; Head of Features, Religion,
and Education; Editor at Radio nan Gàidheal;
BBC Scotland Secretary; and Joint Head of
Programmes. She left the BBC in 2009, and
became Chair of MG Alba in 2012.
“It was probably a natural fit, after I’d been away
for about three years, to come back and do
something like that,” she says of her current role.
“I was also very keen to see the development of
BBC Alba. I was in the management of the BBC
challenge
for Gaelic and
broadcasting
by | Katie Macleod
when it started. I care passionately about Gaelic
and its continuation, because really it’s the core
of who I am. You know, it was the language of
our community, the islands, and all the things
that formed me probably come from Gaelic.”
Launched in 2008, BBC Alba now reaches an
average of around 600,000 viewers a week in
Scotland. What does that success mean for the
Gaelic language? “All the research that we do,
that MG Alba and BBC Alba do, would say that
there is a positive attitude towards Gaelic and
towards the programming... I think the attitudes
to Gaelic have improved immeasurably, but the
challenges are still there, is what I would say.
“I don’t think we can kid ourselves that Gaelic in
our communities is as strong as it was, certainly
not as strong as it was when I was growing up.
Is it [Gaelic media] enough to balance the deficit
in our communities? But I do think the more
young people see their language reflected in the
mainstream media, the more confidence they
have.... The ideal is that you have people who
work in other areas and other professions, and
they speak Gaelic within their own communities,
that is the measure of the health of our language
and neither in media or in any other area should
we ever become complacent”
With the BBC Royal Charter up for review,
Maggie and her colleagues at MG Alba are
hoping that a commitment to increased original
programming at BBC Alba will be incorporated
into the Charter’s new framework. “What we
do want is a commitment from the BBC of ten
hours of original programming,” Maggie explains.
“We’re asking for an additional four and a half
hours a week, because we believe that the
channel is unsustainable with the number of
repeat programmes we have to schedule.”
GEARRANNAN
Blackhouse Village
A WINDOW TO THE PAST
But Gaelic output is very different from when
Maggie applied for that initial production job. “I
started working in Inverness, and, there was
an hour, about an hour of broadcasting a day in
radio, and in television there was maybe, half
an hour a month, or probably about 15 or 20
hours a year. There’s no comparison,” she says
of the differences.
“In the morning, on BBC Highland, we used
to have a thing called the Gaelic Minute, a half
hour programme in English with three minutes
of Gaelic in it, and then steadily, you know, there
was an hour here added and an hour there, but it
was only really when we got our own transmitter,
when Radio nan Gàidheal got its own frequency,
that it was able to develop and spread.”
Given the dramatic changes that have occurred
in Gaelic broadcasting since she began her career
in the industry, what does Maggie expect from its
future? “Somebody said recently that broadband
is as important as water and electricity was 60
years ago , for the islands,” she says.
“The important thing I think is that there’s
content, that people keep making programmes,
and also that there is an authenticity about them,
that they genuinely reflect what’s going on in
the Gaelic world. It’s also important that Gaelic
speakers have their world reflected back to them
in their own language, by whatever means we
use to do that,” she continues.
Gaelic “adds to the diversity of the UK, of
Scotland. It has an important root in Scotland.
How important is it to the diversity of the
country that people still speak Gaelic? I think it’s
absolutely vital.”
Open to visitors March to October 9.30am - 5.30pm except Sundays
Self-catering thatched cottages OPEN ALL YEAR
Sleeping between 2 & 14 and rated from 2 stars to 4 stars
Newly refurbished 13 bedded hostel open all year
For more information please contact
Gearrannan Blackhouse Village 5a Gearrannan,
Carloway, Isle of Lewis HS2 9AL
Tel: 01851 643416 Fax: 10851 643488
E-mail: [email protected]
www.gearrannan.com
Explore the scenic setting, experience life in a 1955 blackhouse,
learn something of the history and culture of a typical crofting
township and enjoy traditional fare in the village cafeteria
56
HEB
| Issue 15 | 2016
A special exhibition lasting for three weeks will
again showcase the best of Uist art this summer.
‘Art on the Map’ is an annual event, run by
the Uist Arts Association. Held at Taigh
Chearsabhagh arts centre, in Lochmaddy, the
exhibition officially opens on the evening of
Friday June 17, and is on until Saturday July 9.
Alongside the exhibition at Taigh Chearsabhagh
are special studio events, with participating artists
opening their doors to anyone who is interested.
One of the co-ordinators for Art on the Map is
Louise Cook of Shoreline Stoneware. She said:
“This will be our 14th event, and the nature of
‘Art on the Map’ is to showcase local artists and
makers, and that can be anything art and craftbased in the Uists.
“There is such a wide variety. We have had local
photography, painting, mixed media, bookbinding,
textiles, ceramics, jewellery and sculpture.”
showcase
weeks
for Uist artists
‘Art on the Map’ provides an invaluable platform
for makers to show off their work to the public,
as well as giving a chance to talk to them, to hear
what inspires them and learn how they make
their works.
There are venues from South Uist through
Benbecula and Grimsay and up to North Uist
and Berneray – a truly inter-island event for the
Southern Isles. A series of specially created ‘Art
on the Map’ brochures and signs point the way
to interested parties.
Such is the reputation of ‘Art on the Map’,
said Louise, the event has morphed into a
talent-spotting ground. “I know from having
discussions with other makers that they have had
gallery owners from the mainland coming across
to develop links for exhibitions,” she said.
“A number have had works sold on the mainland
as a result. We’ve discovered that ‘Art on the
Map’ is well-known not only on the mainland,
but it has attracted international attention too.”
“The whole concept gives makers more
confidence to show their work and share their
skills,” said Louise. “This year we also have a
second brochure for our artists and makers
who are open to the public ‘All Year’. Our
three-week event has proved so popular,
that a number of members are now open all
season. By having a specific brochure for these
members, we can provide detailed information
to visitors who are interested in visiting arts
venues in the Uists, throughout the year.”
57
precIous
keepsake
returns
to family
hands after
100 years
For more than 100 years, a Victorian locket waited to be reunited with
someone called Darling in a story that spans three generations and two
continents.
“It’s left me with wonderment and a sense of awe and mystery of the
universe,” said Stornoway resident Mandy (Amanda) Darling, as a quest,
which began long ago on the plains of Patagonia, reached its end when she
was given her great-aunt Maggie Darling’s sweetheart keepsake.
Born at Patterton Farm, near Thornliebank, Glasgow, in 1874, Maggie
Darling trained as a schoolteacher before travelling to the Isle of Lewis at
the turn of the 20th century to take up a post at Dun Carloway School.
Even before she set foot on the Western Isles, Maggie caused ripples in the
remote community – a telegram sent to the school’s headmaster reading
‘I’ll be off ferry tonight Darling’, leading to some awkward questions from
his wife.
Maggie had a keen interest in politics and the supernatural – she reportedly
held séances in her home – as well as being a bagpipe player, enjoying
music and the adventure of sailing.
On Lewis, she met and married Calum Macleod; the couple, known
locally by the nickname ‘Aird a Bhaigh’, settling first in 13 Kirivik before
taking the bold step to leave their homeland to make a life in Patagonia,
South America.
| Aird a Bhaigh House
| Calum Aird a Bhaigh
“I knew grandpa had a sister called Maggie who was said to be a bit crazy,
but that’s all I knew,” said great-niece Mandy, unaware she followed in
Maggie’s footsteps when she moved to settle in Lewis a century later.
“She was very opinionated, possibly a little stroppy. She was into politics
and became a Lewis councillor in later life, so to me she was obviously a
feminist of her time.
“And she loved music and sailing. For people who know me, you could
say we’re very similar, well, apart from holding séances,” said Mandy,
herself a musician and sailor.
Mandy assumes it was after the Great War that Maggie and Calum
returned to Lewis, building a house – called Aird a Bhaigh – in Sandwick,
just outside Stornoway.
Calum acted as agent for islanders travelling to Patagonia and beyond,
while Maggie continued to sponsor island education and became a local
councillor.
Yet, back in Patagonia, a gold and crystal glass locket containing two photo
portraits lay lost on the vast grassland plains – until it was spied, glinting in
the grass, by a fellow islander on horseback, searching for stray sheep.
“We don’t know who this man was, but the story goes that he got
down off his horse, picked up the locket, remarked that it was the ‘Aird
a Bhaighs’, and put it in his pocket making up his mind to return it to
Maggie,” explained Mandy.
But World War Two, the Darling family believe, long delayed the locket’s
return to Lewis.
When it did arrive, both Maggie and Calum had died, leaving no children
behind them. Calum’s two sisters had also passed away so the locket, its
story and the quest to reunite it with the family was entrusted first to local
solicitor and Procurator Fiscal Colin Scott Mackenzie, before being passed
58
HEB
| Issue 15 | 2016
| Colin Scott Mackenzie presents the historic locket to Mandy Darling
to his son, also Colin Scott. Colin Scott said his father ‘thought he would
have no difficulty in tracing an heir’, but to his ‘general astonishment’ had
no luck.
A bite on the line came in the 1980s when Mandy’s cousin, Gwyn Darling,
visited Lewis; but with Colin Scott having advanced to the Bench as Sheriff
in Orkney, and Gwyn leaving no contact details, the trail ran cold.
Then Colin Scott returned after retirement and considered giving the
locket, and a written version of its story, to Museum nan Eilean in the
‘faintest of faint hope’ a claimant would one day appear.
But a chance meeting of islanders with Patagonian connections at a dinner
in the Cabarfeidh Hotel saw a retelling of the story – and Mandy and Colin
Scott were put in touch.
“I was told that Colin Scott Mackenzie was looking for me, that he had
something for me,” said Mandy.
“He told me of his life-long search for a Darling family member, a search
he’d inherited from his father. I went to his house and, after proving who I
was to the former Sheriff, he put the locket in my hand.
“That’s what else is remarkable about this; it’s not just the locket that’s
survived, but the story has been passed along with it.
“It just makes me wonder, over 100 years ago at least after Maggie lost her
locket, is it pure coincidence, is there something in fate that it should end
up in my hand a century later? It’s amazing.”
Colin Scott added: “The present locket, being gold and crystal, has, no
doubt, a certain intrinsic value, but it is the story attached which makes it
so special.
“It is, as Mandy says, truly amazing. All is well at long last!”
| The Darling Locket
| Maggie Darling Aird a Bhaigh
59
The maciver
and morrison era
at Cunard Line
by | Fred Silver
The role of two Lewis families in the setting up
and operation of the internationally renowned
Cunard Line in the 19th Century was very great.
The Macivers and the Morisons, linked by
marriage and seafaring traditions that extended
from Stornoway to Liverpool and beyond to
North America and Jamaica, had, through their
shipping and merchanting companies, a major
role in how Cunard – officially called the British
& North American Royal Mail Steam Packet
Company – developed.
Charles Maciver, married to Mary Ann Morison,
became the manager of the company, as it
became the leading mail and passenger line on
the North Atlantic. For more than 30 years, he
was consulted regularly by government officials
and was a principal witness at several major
Parliamentary Inquiries. By the 1860s, he was
Cunard’s largest shareholder.
Two generations of ship-owning Macivers moved
south from Stornoway during the 18th Century.
Two Macivers, believed to have been first cousins,
were trading in kelp from Lewis to Liverpool in
that era. John Maciver married in 1752, and he
had sons William, Peter and Iver, and records
survive, for example, of a shipment of kelp sent
from Lewis to Messrs Iver and Peter Maciver, of
Liverpool in 1798. John’s father, also called Iver, is
said to have moved to Dunoon at the start of the
18th Century.
Charles Maciver was a son of David Maciver,
son of an earlier Charles Maciver, involved in the
kelp trade between Stornoway, the Clyde and
Liverpool. He is thought to have been a son of
John Maciver, who was tacksman of Gress in the
1750s. John of Gress was married to a daughter
of Charles MacKenzie of Letterewe, which may
explain how the unusual name – in Lewis terms –
Charles came into the Macivers. Before Gress
the Macivers were tacksmen of Tolsta Chaolais
and Little Bernera – something which caused
great confusion for later researchers as these
were in the parish of Uig, and a 19th century
study of the Clan Iver wrongly assumed that Uig
on the Isle of Skye was their home.
The extent of the trade links between Lewis
and Liverpool may be shown by a Harris story
about Sgeirean Iomhair (Skerries of Iver) found
eastward from the northern tip of Boreray, out on
the way to the Isle of Pabbay. The story says that
in former days a trading smack from Lewis was
sailing southwards to Liverpool with a cargo of salt
fish and apparently Iver Maciver struck this boat
on this skerry. It’s possible the boat belonged to
Iver rather than being sailed by him.
While Samuel Cunard is credited with the
inspiration, energy and know-how to instigate
the formation of what was quickly known as
the Cunard Line in 1839, there were several
managing owners – the Burns brothers and the
Maciver brothers in addition to Samuel Cunard
himself.
Cunard was from a family of Empire Loyalists,
people who left the former British colonies that
| First Cunard sailing advertised on 2 July 1840
became the USA, and moved to Canada to
remain in the British Empire. His family had been
17th Century immigrants to North America from
Germany.
Having won the trans-Atlantic mails contract
from the British Government Cunard returned
to Halifax, Nova Scotia, at the end of 1839 to
arrange the terminal for the new steamship line
and for the transhipment of passengers, freight
and mails to the USA. The Burns brothers,
George and John, attended to the building of
the four new vessels on the Clyde whilst the
Maciver brothers, David and Charles, kept the
Company books and with their own firm, D &
C Maciver & Co provided the terminal facilities
on the Mersey. They were also freight and
passenger agents.
STORNOWAY PORT AUTHORITY
Amity House,
Esplanade Quay,
Stornoway,
Isle of Lewis
HS1 2XS
Tel: 01851 702688
60
HEB
| Issue 15 | 2016
email:[email protected]
www.stornowayportauthority.com
Once the line was up and running at the end
of summer 1840, the day-to-day operation of
the Line was left to the Macivers. When David
Maciver died in 1845, Charles took control of the
company’s operations at the age of 33, running
the world’s first transoceanic steamship service.
four steamers would be needed and they needed
to be larger and more powerful. When Cunard
said he could not pay for this, Napier arranged
for him to meet a number of Glasgow-linked
merchants, among them the Burns brothers and
the Maciver brothers.
David had been brought up in Greenock and
spent most of the 1820s learning maritime
commerce in the counting houses of Glasgow
merchants who were relatives and friends. In
1828 he moved to Liverpool taking up his father’s
connections as agent for Irish Sea ferry services.
He saw the advantages of a fast steam-packet
service between Liverpool and the Clyde and,
creating a new firm, bought the City of Glasgow,
built a few years earlier as the fastest vessel in
the world. He soon added another steamer,
the John Wood. In 1831, Charles returned from
Charleston in the United States to join the firm,
but now competition on the Liverpool-Clyde run
was severe. The Burns brothers, their strongest
competitors, agreed an alliance; the Burns duo
managing the Scottish base leaving David and
Charles to maintain the Liverpool terminal.
At first, the Burns and Maciver brothers refused
to invest but Robert Napier – who himself also
invested in the company – managed to overcome
their doubts. Napier persuaded Cunard to offer
the Maciver brothers the Liverpool agency for his
ships with the Glasgow agency going to the Burns
brothers. The Burns brothers subscribed £10,600
each with the Macivers putting in £8,000. The
total involved was £270,000. (That project would
cost up to £200m in modern money.)
In 1836 the postmaster-general let it be known
that the British Government would be asking for
tenders for a contract to carry mails across the
Atlantic by steam vessels to British North America.
Samuel Cunard was then operating regular
schooner services on the east coast of Canada
carrying mail as far as the Bahamas, Bermuda and
the West Indies. A meeting between Cunard and
Robert Napier, a Clyde engineer, resulted in a
reasonable price for building three vessels. Later
Napier told Cunard that further studies showed
Work began on the first four ships, Britannia,
Columbia, Acadia and Caledonia, and Samuel
Cunard was back in Liverpool by July 1840 to
take passage on the maiden voyage of the line’s
first ship, Britannia. She sailed on 4 July 1840 and
reached Halifax, Nova Scotia, on the 17th and
was off Boston lighthouse in the USA by the next
day.
There were also direct links between Cunard
and the Isle of Lewis through Charles Maciver’s
wife, Mary Ann Morrison and her family. Her
brothers, Kenneth Lockwood and John Hall
Morison, known as Alfred, ran a firm of Glasgow
merchants. Kenneth Morison became Outside
Manager for the Cunard Line abandoning his
partnership with his brother to devote his
energies exclusively to superintending the handling
of Cunard steamers when in dock. Their father
was Daniel Morison, comptroller of customs in
Glasgow. He was a neighbour of the Charles
Maciver in Rothesay on the Isle of Bute where
Charles had a second home, and was the son of
Kenneth Morison, from Stornoway, who became
a ship-owner in Jamaica. Kenneth was the
grandson of the Rev Kenneth Morrison, minister
of Stornoway, who died in 1720. This family
goes back to Bragar and Ness, and also includes a
tacksman of Gress and Coll in the 17th and early
18th centuries.
The extensive Lewis connections gave rise to the
story that the name Cunard was of Gaelic origin,
from Cuan Ard – the High Seas. This is a myth.
The name Cunard developed in the former
British American colonies – Samuel Cunard’s
ancestor was Thones Kunders, also known as
Anton Kuners and Thomas Cunard, born in 1648
in Neuwerk, Mönchengladbach, Düsseldorf, who
died on December 30, 1729 in Germantown,
Philadelphia, and was buried at Haddonfield,
Gloucester, New Jersey.
(My thanks to Bill and Chris Lawson, Seallam,
Northton, Harris; Domhnall Uilleam Stiùbhart, of
Back and Sabhal Mòr Ostaig; Stornoway Library;
Fergus Molloy and Harry Hignett of the Liverpool
Nautical Research Society. Any errors in this
article are my own.)
Printed sources: Cunard and the North Atlantic
1840–1973: A History of Shipping and Financial
Management, Francis E Hyde; Charles Maciver
of Cunard, his maritime background, Harry M.
Hignett; Appendix C of The Blind Harper, edited
by William Matheson.
HOLMASAIG STUDIO GALLERY
Margarita was awarded the CR Mackintosh Assoc / France 2014 Residency in Collioure
Paintings, Japanese woodblock prints by resident artist Margarita Williams (DA Glas) and invited artists
Quidinish, S.E. Harris. Open: 11am - 5pm Mon – Sat Tel. 01859 530401 www.holmasaiggallery.com
61
UIG LODGE -
location location, location!
by | Eric J Macdonald
I’m not sure whether there was a mid- Victorian equivalent of TV
presenter Kirstie Allsopp. Probably not. They were a more seriousminded bunch.
But, if there had been then Uig Lodge would surely have prompted a gush
of superlatives. Admittedly in the Hebrides it is difficult to find a location
that doesn’t come with stunning backdrops but the builders of Uig Lodge
really did hit upon somewhere special. There is a kaleidoscope of views,
constantly changing depending on the light, the time of day or the season
of the year.
Mealtimes are regularly interrupted as guests stampede out of the dining
room clutching their cameras to capture a stunning sunset or a fleeting
Turneresque landscape of light and water and rock before it vanishes.
The chef takes a dim view of such goings on but moments such as those
demand to be captured there and then. A collapsed cheese soufflé is
surely a small price to pay in the great scheme of things?
The house was built in 1876 by island landowner Sir James Matheson and
intended as a “place of repose” for his many guests who came to test their
shooting/fishing prowess in the hills and lochs.
Five minutes later, cup of tea in
one hand and home baked scone
in the other, you can enjoy the
same view from the comfort of the
lodge sitting room. The interior
of the lodge is reassuringly right.
Not chintzy or over fussy. Looking
around you might easily imagine
yourself an extra on Downton
Abbey or Monarch of the Glen.
I hear you say: “Lounging around
on sofas, sipping afternoon tea and
admiring the views. But what is
there to do?” “Lots!” is the simple
answer. Fishing, of course. For
salmon, trout and sea trout in the
river and lochs. Shooting and
stalking – in season, naturally (August – late January). Bird watching. One
recent party of ‘twitchers’ identified over 40 different species during a
fortnight stay; including various plovers, gulls, waders, ducks, three types
of divers, green and red shanks and according to a rather cryptic entry in
the visitor’s book; “Whooper Swan (dead)”.
The highlight of their stay was a magnificent display of aerial acrobatics by a
Sea Eagle just 30 yards from the sitting room window. Archaeology buffs
can visit a Celtic monk’s cell, a Viking cemetery, a Bronze Age burial site,
a Neolithic shell midden and the ruins of an Iron Age broch all within 20
minutes of the lodge.
Hill-walkers, botanists and geologists can easily fill an entire week making
unexpected discoveries. More adventurous types can head off to St Kilda
or the Flannan Isles by boat stopping off on the way back to haggle over a
freshly caught lobster or crab at the jetty in Miavaig.
Photographers and artists can sally forth and do their own thing or
take advantage of a weeks stay combined with expert tuition from an
experienced professional.
References to the Lodge are many in dusty books of sporting memoirs
which were in vogue during that period; normally penned by retired
Indian Army officers and boasting splendid titles such as; “Scottish Moors
and Indian Jungles” or “Days in Thule” or “With Rod and Gun in Furthest
Hebrides”.
Eventually the house came into the possession of Lord Leverhulme who
subsequently bequeathed it to his niece, Emily MacDonald as a wedding
present.
Since then a succession of owners have come and gone but through
the years the Lodge has remained “a place of repose” set in a landscape
impervious to the comings and goings of mere mortals.
Today, thankfully, you don’t require an invitation from a millionaire businessman
or the generous pension of a retired Army officer to enjoy its comforts.
The journey from Stornoway or Tarbert to Uig is indeed a pleasurable
experience in itself. Take the old Pentland Road from the outskirts of
Stornoway heading to Achmore; stopping on the way to enjoy views of
Skye and The Seven Sisters to the South East and Suilven looming over
the hills of Sutherland to the North. Dotted along the roadside and out
on the moors the remains of summer ‘sheilings’, some in ruins and some
beautifully restored are still in evidence; witnesses to a vanished way of life.
Eventually the hills of Uig appear up ahead to beckon you on. Then you
must take the Uig turn off; the B8011 at Garynahine. The road takes you
past the Grimersta River, past Scaliscro and Morsgail and countless lochs
in between until you arrive at Glen Valtos - the island’s own mini Grand
Canyon.
62
Here, 10,000 years ago, as the last Ice Age came to an end the deep gorge
was carved from meltwater running off a glacier where Uig Bay is now. As
you emerge from the glen, ideally on a beautiful summer’s day, the view
really is breathtaking; the white sands of the Traigh Mhor; the brilliant green of
the machair, the russets and purples of the hills and the blue of the Atlantic.
HEB
| Issue 14 | 2015
Writers can follow in the footsteps of Arthur Ransome who wrote ‘Great
Northern’ (the last of the Swallows and Amazons series) whilst staying at
Uig Lodge.
Malcolm, the resident Ghillie, a man of infinite patience and understanding
is also available to induct beginners into the mysteries of fly-fishing.
The lodge is also the home of award-winning Uig Lodge smoked salmon
and visitors can avail themselves of a tour and an insight into the ancient
art of fish smoking. Did I mention the nine- hole golf course? Very
challenging was the diplomatic description.
And last but not least there is a distillery; Abhainn Dearg, the only one on
the Isle of Lewis just five minutes away. Marco, the owner is normally on
hand to greet visitors.
All in all, something for everyone. The lodge has stood now for 140 years
looking out over the Atlantic. Long enough to have become a part of the
landscape of Uig. And like that landscape, in an ever-changing world it
somehow retains an atmosphere of timelessness
Award-Winning Smoked Salmon,
Holiday Lets, B&B, Residential Art
and Photography Weeks, Fly-Fishing
Uig Lodge, Timsgarry, Isle Of Lewis HS2 9ET
T. 0 18 51 6 7 2 3 9 6
W W W.UIGLODGE.CO.UK
63
luxury
holIday
houses
in the Outer
Hebrides
64
HEB
| Issue 15 | 2016
‘Luxury Holiday Houses Ltd’ are nowhere better represented than on the
fabulous Outer Hebrides.
With the finest house to be built on the Isle of Harris in recent years, Oran
na Mara, as feather in their cap they also represent a whole selection of
4 and 5 star cottages throughout Lewis, Harris, North Uist and South Uist
and continue to seek out the very best the islands can offer.
Based on the Black Isle ensures that they are close enough not only to get
to know the islands and the properties well but also to visit regularly to
ensure high standards are maintained.
Continually seeking houses of a very special nature and quality for those
for whom it is so important they find home from home comforts, or a
level of luxury not often met in self catering, is of paramount importance
to this company.
Being Highlands based their knowledge of the Highlands and Islands is
comprehensive and they are happy to listen to your requirements and
find the best house match for a successful holiday.
With exacting standards to be met and maintained choosing an LHH
holiday home is your assurance of quality accommodation and a warm
welcome in the Islands.
L
H
H
Luxury Holiday Houses
in the Outer Hebrides.
THE FINEST SELF CATERING IN THE ISLANDS!
w: LHHScotland.com t: 01381 610496 e: [email protected]
65
Acommodation
Accommodation
in Harris
31 Northton
Self Catering Accommodation
in Northton, South Harris
Traditional Hebridean Croft House
Fully equipped and modernised
SLEEPS 4/6
www.31northton.com
07765 126967
BAYHEAD
Lingerbay, Isle of Harris
Enjoy a peaceful holiday in this large, well equipped, 5
bedroomed bungalow on the beautiful Isle of Harris. As recent
guests commented, “the house well surpassed any expectation...”
Tel: 01876510233 (Mon- Sat)
Mob: 07780660790(Mon-Sat)
E-mail: [email protected]
www.bayhead-harris.co.uk
7A & 7B Ardroil
High standard, 4* accreditation, self catering cottages
set in peaceful and beautiful area of Uig, Lewis and
only minutes from the stunning Uig Sands. Sleeps
up to six and two respectively. Full linen, heating,
wi-fi and many other amenities available.
Contact Mark Swinbank 07785 753758
or visit www.7a-ardroil.com for
further information and booking details
24 New Street, Stornoway
Tel: 01555 890 799 Mob: 0782 868 0002
www.stornowayholidaycottage.co.uk
TAIGH NANDAG Self Catering Cottage
Valtos, Uig, Isle of Lewis HS2 9HR
Eriskay LiLt
5 STAR
Luxury modern eco-friendly self-catering
house on beautiful Hebridean Isle of Eriskay
• Sleeps 8 • Two Twins • Two doubles • Two lounges • Free wi-fi
• Wood-burning stove • Five minutes from beaches • Furnished
to a very high standard • Wheelchair accessible • Pets welcome
Sleeps 4/5: 3 Bedrooms (1 double
and the other two rooms have bunk
beds), 1 shower-room with WC,
shower and wash basin, Kitchen,
Utility Room, Living Room with
picture windows and multifuel stove
www.valtosbeach.co.uk
Tel: 078255 411458 [email protected]
Self Catering
www.eriskaylilt.co.uk
Accommodation
Contact owners Don & Kathleen
on 07796 272748/0141 576 8732
[email protected]
Arnish View B&B
26 Newton Street,
Stornoway HS1 2RE
Phone 01851-702824
Tranquil Sands Holiday Home
Spacious, comfortable home, close to
ferry, bus and town centre with views
across the harbour and out to sea
Artworks on view and for sale
Guided walks for guests
www.self-catering-accommodation-isleofharris.co.uk
Mobile 07831 390216
Avalon Guest house
ROWAN COTTAGE
Less than an hour’s
drive from the
Calanish Stones and
half an hour to St
Clement’s Church
at Rodel.
In between are the majestic hills of North Harris
and the golden sandy beaches of Luskentyre,
Seilebost and Horgabost, making this a great base for
exploring all that Harris has to offer and for touring
more widely.
Contact: Arlene Morrison on 01859 502334
www.avalonguesthouse.org
[email protected]
66
‘Tilleadh Dhachaidh’ (Returning Home)
Travel and visiting advice available
12 West Side, Tarbert, Isle of Harris, HS3 3BG
HEB
| Issue 15 | 2016
The Braes
40A Newmarket
Stornoway
Isle of Lewis
Contact: K M MacLeod on 01563-523521
Website: www.thebraes-laxdale.co.uk
Lochside refurbished luxury accommodation
SLEEPS UP TO 6
is our 2 bedroom detached bungalow built in 2012
on the family croft. It is situated on the west side of
the island of North Uist in the Outer Hebrides and
offers beautiful uninterrupted views from all angles
and is within walking distance to the unspoilt beach
which is featured on our home page
www.tranquilsandsholidayhome.co.uk
and www.facebook.com/tranquilsands
T: 07738 921380
Our self catering accommodation is available to rent all year
round and is designed to accommodate a max of 4 persons
Sealladh
Eabhal
Newly renovated 6-bed
self-catering cottage
Tel: 07748 680212
www.northuistholidaycottage.co.uk
www.facebook.com/rowancottagenorthuist
1 Northside Kallin Grimsay Isle of North Uist
www.hebrideanholidayaccommodation.co.uk
Tel: 07879 881 904 / 01505 343472
Accommodation
4 Dunmore Crescent
Self catering accommodation
in Leverburgh, South Harris
Sleeps 6 / pets welcome
Cnoc Na Ba Self catering cottage, Finsbay, Isle of Harris
is situated on the east coast of Harris know as The Bays with its unique rocky
landscape near to the sea and amid moorland, inland lochs and hills of Harris.
It is a quiet, peaceful location ideal for exploring the diverse landscape of the
Outer Hebrides. Its world famous beaches on the west coast are within easy access.
Contact Karen on 0771 55 99 577
www.holidayinharris.com
Caravan & Campsite
In the heart of the
Balranald Nature Reserve
● Hard Standing Pitches for
Caravans and Motorhomes
● Tent pitches
● Modern toilet and shower block
● Electric Hook-ups
● Dish washing and
laundry facilities
● Toilet Waste Disposal Point
(Organic Additive only)
● Wifi
Hougharry, North Uist, HS6 5DL (Just behind the RSPB Visitor Centre)
Tel: 01876 510304 Mob: 07748 267996
www.balranaldhebrideanholidays.com
Prices from £300.00 per week
Please visit our web site for more information:
www.cnocnaba.co.uk or contact Catherine Ross Winton
on [email protected] or telephone 01859 530232
Eriskay Cottage Bun A Mhullin, Isle of Eriskay
Cosy traditional cottage available for self catering
holidays on Eriskay
Sleeps up to 8 in 2 double (one with en suite shower room)
and 2 bunk bedrooms. Electric central heating, fridge, washing
machine, tumble dryer and dishwasher. TV with Freesat and
DVD player. Open fireplace in
the sitting room. Large dining
kitchen and family bathroom
Available all year round
The cost £350-£550 per week, all
linen and electricity is included
www.eriskaycottage.co.uk 07850 909899
Struan House B&B
www.struanhousesollas.co.uk
Peggy and John welcome you to this family-run Wi-Fi internet access and a telephone are available
on request.
B&B on the western edge of North Uist.
Accommodation comprises one family room with
private facilities one twin room (ensuite), and one
double room (ensuite), all on the ground floor. Each
bedroom has a hospitality tray, television/DVD player,
radio alarm clock and hairdryer, and we will do our
best to meet any additional requests.
The residents’ lounge has a reference library, Sky TV
and a selection of family games, videos and DVDs.
For a small charge we can provide a laundry service;
there is also a drying room and an iron and ironing
board for guest use.
Our hearty breakfasts start at 6.30am and a typical
menu including a full Scottish breakfast
Evening meals and packed lunches are available on
request. We are happy to cater for vegetarian or any
other dietary needs.
Tel: 01876 560385 / 07818 615742 Email: [email protected]
12 Malaglate, Sollas, Isle of North Uist HS6 5BX
67
Accommodation
| Gloucester Old Spot pigs with the Callanish
Stones in the background
leumadaIr…
a working croft
| A Barn Owl
| Robina and new-born Ginger from our Highland herd
68
HEB
| Issue 15 | 2016
| Looking after the bees
LEUMADAIR
offers all our guests a true taste of the Hebridean lifestyle and experience
B&B £88 per night
based on 2 sharing
2 Double rooms
Working croft with
Hebridean sheep,
Highland cows and
At Leumadair Guesthouse
Gloucester Old Spot pigs
Open every Sunday
Falconry birds 10am – 8pm May - September
of prey on site Serving Teas, coffees, home-baking,
Pictured left:
Pol, our Harris Hawk
lunches and evening meals
See our facebook page for more information
7a Callanish, Isle of Lewis HS2 9DY
Tel: 01851 621706 Mob: 07879 063331
WE ARE
HERE
[email protected]
www.leumadair.co.uk
69
70
HEB
| Issue 15 | 2016
71
tucked away
in Grosebay,
only 6 miles
from the
ferry in
Tarbert...
72
HEB
Tel: 01859 511108
www.harristweedco.co.uk
| Issue 15 | 2016

The Islands - The HEB Magazine

Transcription

Similar documents

request to correct name or address on a real property account

Second Wind January 2014

Harris Falcon III ® RF-7850A-TM001 Roll-on/Roll

Harris Falcon III® RF-7850A

RF-6705-SW001

FASHION THAT HAS GONE TO THE DOGS! www.pinkwhiskers.co.uk

ALISON O`NEILL, sheperdess, has created an inspiring look for her

By Eric Overmyer - Princeton University

Weekly Bulletin

GCVI Alumni Association