Summer Sonic Osaka 2008

Summer Sonic 2008, Osaka
By Darren Saunders
10 August 2008
Background
Two days of full-on rock ‘n roll. More than 50 bands, rotating between Osaka and Tokyo. Starting
each day at 11.00 AM until about 9.30 PM. Hot, hot, hot.
Preparation
I plan for this event like a day trip into the
mountains or a similar extreme environment.
Self sufficiency is key. First off, drinks. The
web site says you can only take water to
some venues so I decide to take two small
bottles of water, one of lemon tea and a
bottle of coke mixed with Jack Daniel’s. I
freeze the water and lemon tea the night
before and wrap them in small towels on the
morning. I take two soft tacos wrapped in foil
for lunch.
There are 6 stages and bands playing at the
same time so I’ve gone though the timetable
in advance and made my own schedule. I print
it out along with maps of how to get there
and the stage map from the Summer Sonic
web site.
The day arrives. Sunday, August 10. 9.45 AM.
I keep waking up early, which in the end is a
good thing as it takes longer to get there
than I thought. I am thrilled at the chance to
finally see the Sex Pistols live. I saw the Clash
with an older friend when I was 14. I was too
young really and I never thought I would have
a chance to see and hear the Pistols live.
Final Check
Sunglasses, sun screen, spare
t-shirt, drinks, hand towels,
lunch, cell phone, wallet. (I
don’t even use the sun
screen but that’s just me.)
Getting There
I ride my mountain bike to the station. It’s
already more than 30 degrees and humid as
hell. While waiting for the train at the station
an oldish Japanese man is sitting at the
platform. Being in a positive frame of mind I
ask him where he’s going. He answers that he
is on his way to Osaka to visit his mother in an
old people’s home. I ask how old she is. 91.
We discuss how Japanese live the longest. He
says its only true of his generation because
they became tough through the war. He says
that young people today won’t live as long. I
just nod. He keeps talking. Says that young
people today are weak, he read that less than
30 percent said they would fight to defend
the country if it was attacked. Ah, Japan’s
famous pacifist culture. He shakes his head in
pity. I say its probably just that they can’t
imagine being attacked. If it really happened
people would change their thinking. The train
pulls up and I am glad to have an excuse to
stop to talking to this guy.
The train’s half full of people on vacation.
About 20 minutes to Osaka station and than
switch to the loop line. Start to see a few
people who are also heading to the festival.
Another 10 minutes and we’re at Nishikujo. A
short wait at the platform until a few minutes
later a local train to Sakurajima pulls up. The
air conditioning is hardly working. The train is
quite full and I see many people wearing
orange wristbands that say, Summer Sonic 2
days. They are mostly young. Everyone is
happy and talking. About ten minutes to
Sakurajima and suddenly there is a crowd. The
train station staff are making rapid fire
announcements over loudspeakers. Shouting
out instructions about tickets and buses. I just
go with the flow.
Get outside and there’s a big group of people
waiting to buy return tickets. I decide to skip
that and take my chances when I come back.
The sense of tension and anticipation is rising.
I follow the crowd towards a long line of
courtesy buses that have been put on. The
buses are clean, smooth and air conditioned.
Arrival
About 15 minutes later we arrive at a large
field with white fences that look like like stock
gates. I feel like a cow heading to slaughter. I
exchange my ticket for the blue wristband
that identifies me as a member of this new
clan. There are young Japanese women in
short skirts helping to put on the wristbands.
God, what a great country. I’m finally out of
the paddock and back into the great flow of
bodies moving toward the stadium. A couple
of the outdoor stages come into sight and I
start to sense the scale. It’s hot. Really hot. I
grab one of the hand towels from my bag. It’s
ice cold. Everyone has these towels around
their necks like small cotton scarves. Essential
to stop the sweat dripping down your back
and front. They’re selling water for 250 yen a
small bottle (twice the usual price). I’m glad I
brought 2 bottles (for 88 yen each at the
supermarket).
Let The Music Begin!
These New Puritans
It’s already 11.40. I check my schedule and see that These New
Puritans, one of the bands I have listed as “must see” have
already started playing. In a stroke of luck the closest stage is
the Sonic Stage, the first venue in my schedule. Out front about
40 people are lined up waiting to buy cold drinks from a single
vending machine. Up the steps. Am I going to be searched? No
problem, straight through and two minutes later I walk through
the 2nd floor door into the stadium. It’s dark. At the far end is a
large stage. These New Puritans are already well into their set.
My eyes have trouble adjusting to the low light but I find a seat.
Down below, the floor is half filled with people standing and dancing. It looks like a large disco and
the stadium is quite cool. I start to relax. I’m here. These New Puritans are loud and good. I decide
its a good time for the JD and coke even though it’s still not quite noon. It foams up and spills
out of the bottle when I twist the cap. I put my mouth over it and taste the whiskey. It’s all gone
five minutes later. Note to self. Make it stronger next time (even though it was a least a 1/4 JD).
I hear the familiar bass line and the band starts playing “Elvis.” Great song. Great start to the day.
Then the band plays their last song and I check to see what’s next in my schedule.
http://youtube.com/watch?v=lzHwRcOsDNw
Joe Lean and the Jing Jang Jong
It was a toss-up whether to see Joe Lean and the Jing
Jang Jong or Beat Union but it’s already after noon and it
takes 10 minutes to walk to the Ocean Stage. Its really
hot. I can hear the Jing Jang Jong well before I see them.
The sky stage is further way (actually even further than it
looks as I find out later) so fortunately I choose to see the
last few songs of the Jing Jang Jong. They are good if not
particularly memorable. The sound of the outdoor stage is
much bigger than the indoor one. The huge speakers blast
out music over an open gravel area that could easily hold
5,000 people. Its nowhere near that full. Most people are
up near the stage and around the periphery are a few stalls selling drinks. I decide its a good time
for a beer. (When is it not a good time?) There is a Corona tent. They fill up a large plastic cup
from an ice cold bottle. “Lemon?” he asks. “Just a little”. Anyway I thought it was supposed to be
lime. But it tastes great and lasts for the rest of the gig. The sun beats down on my skin and I
consider taking off my shirt like a few others have done. I decide not to, surely to the
appreciation of those around me.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8GHWFHnKIvo
Blood Red Shoes
I’m checking out my schedule. I really want to make sure I
see Blood Red Shoes. They are going on next, back at the
Sonic stage where I’ve just come from. Allowing for the
10 minutes walk back I figure I should leave. I finish my
beer and hike back in the hot sun. This time I decide I’d
rather be downstairs. I find the way down and walk into
the auditorium as they are finishing the sound check.
I can’t wait to see Blood Red Shoes. A two piece, she
(Laura-Mary Carter) on guitar and he (Steven Ansell) on
drums. No bass. Her voice is pure bliss and that guitar
sound, Sonic youth and the Cure merged together. The
drummer is pretty good too but it’s their chemistry which really sets everything off.
Finally the lights go down and the crowd goes quiet briefly. Then they are on stage and a huge
roar greets them. Obviously I am not the only one who likes them. They blast out their entire
repertoire over the next 40 minutes. It’s as good as I expected. “You all know all our names”,
Steven says, “but we don’t know yours. Tell us your names.” he implores. “This is our first time in
Japan and it’s really good. We like it.” Hey, don”t we all.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEzKBUsyGYg
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3HGjc1msrQM&NR
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jma0Rjdcmgc
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jtt2gM3rpZE
Their energy floods off the stage and makes it impossible to stand still. They finish off their set
with ADHD. As hesitant as I am to miss even a second of their excellent performance, One
Republic have already started so I head back over to the Ocean stage.
One Republic
One Republic’s sound is clean and professional. The lead
singer (Ryan Tedder) picks up an acoustic guitar to
perform “Stop and Stare” with many in the crowd joining
in to sing the chorus. Afterwards he asks, “Are you
looking forward to the Verve and Prodigy? You are? So
smack my bitch up.” before launching into “Mercy” and
then winding up the audience with “Apologize” with
Brent Kuzle on the Cello.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lPHDoZNbMeE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XWFxW9-9HSg
By the end of One Republic’s upbeat set I go looking for the bar indicated on the stage map in the
hope of escaping the sun and with visions of large slow moving overhead fans and chilled draught
on tap. It doesn’t take me long to find the official bar, and even less time to realize that it is
simply a tent selling take away drinks - 5 types of spirits with your choice of water, water or
water. Having started the day with whiskey I choose the bourbon and water with a good chunk of
lemon. I look around for some shade and find some people sitting under the only trees around. I
spot a small piece of shade, room enough for one and sit down next to a young Japanese couple.
I take out the first of my tacos and we talk a bit. They are veterans, their 4th Sumer Sonic they
say. It is still mid-day but they say they are sitting it out waiting for the Prodigy and The Verve
later in the day. We introduce ourselves and shake hands before I leave which seems the entirely
wrong order but that’s they way it goes. The Subways are due on the Ocean stage in 15 minutes
so I head over with half of my iced lemon water and Jim Beam still remaining and find a good
place close to the stage.
The Subways
The Subways come on full speed right from the start with
the singer/guitarist stripped to the waist. The Subways
are really great, running back and forth the full width of
the stage while thrashing away on their guitars. Simple,
classic, powerful American rock. They don’t miss a beat
and the audience cheers loudly and dances along. These
videos will give you an idea of their energy level. Highly
recommended.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lLZvJ_rtZO8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nkJZptg-iac
Cajun Dance Party
Next up, Cajun Dance Party at the now enticingly cool
indoors of the Sonic stage. The place is packed. Is
this band that popular or is everyone just seeking
refuge from the hot afternoon sun? I’m not sure but
there are no seats to be found so I find a place to
stand up at the back of the stadium. Downstairs is
packed too. They put on a good show but actually
after the Subways it seems to lack energy.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=POIdaranmxs
The Kills
After Cajun Dance Party I should go to see Zebrahead
but it’s already 15 minutes passed the time they
started and I can’t bear the thought of going out in the
sun again so I stay and find a seat for The Kills. The Kills
had missed playing in Tokyo for some reason that I
hadn’t been able to understand. Another female/male
combo with a drum machine instead of a live drummer. I
occasionally found the drum machine abrasive, low-fi
and overly repetitive (I know, I know it’s a drum
machine). I guess that’s how they like it but it started
to give me a headache or perhaps it was delayed
heatstroke or the effects of the whiskey and beer
starting to fade. I thought 3 of the songs were really great and the others put me to sleep. They
should get a drummer.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CMiRDICVq6s
Death Cab for Cutie
I had been looking forward to seeing Death Cab for Cutie but I was feeling restless after sitting for
over an hour. I listened to a few songs but started to feel cold and wanted to get outside.
Compared to the The Kills, DCFC had much more equipment including a rack of guitars and some
kind of organ. My headache had only vaguely subsided and when the lead singer introduced “I will
follow you into the dark” as a love song I’d had enough. The Verve were on next and being one of
the headline acts I wanted to make sure I could get a good place to see them so I left. Why are
DCFC so hooked up on death? I decide I don’t really like them anymore. I mean “Soul meets body”
is a great song but that’s about it for me. As I said I should’ve gone to see Zebrahead.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uizQVriWp8M
The Verve
So I’m back outside, the mid-day heat has faded
and there’s a nice breeze coming in from the sea.
It’s 5.45PM and just going outside clears my mind
right away. Back the now familiar route to the
Ocean stage. The Sky stage is away to the right
up a hill and there’s a long trail of hundreds of
people walking down. That’s were the Sex Pistols
will play in about 2 hours time.
Into the gravel pit and straight to the Corona tent
for another beer. He doesn’t ask if I want lemon
this time but it tastes cold and just as good as
the first one. The previous band has just finished
so it seems they are 5 minutes or so behind
schedule. I go to the right side of the stage, on the principle that since its further from the
entrance it may be slightly less crowded (you won’t usually go wrong counting on other peoples’
laziness.) It’s not such a long wait before the sound checks are done and the crowd starts to
stand apprehensively. Looking behind I can see it’s a large crowd. The largest so far. Some kind of
Christian song starts playing as an intro. and then the band is on the stage. “This is fucking
music” lead singer Matthew Bellamy says and then the band lets loose.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?
v=lFWXHOpdP7c
It’s an absolute bloody sonic miracle. The air
in my chest moves in time with the bass and
drums. The guitarist is going crazy. At the end
of the song a Japanese guy behind me says
“Sugoi desu ne” (That was the shit!) I repeat
it back to him and he smiles. The crowd is
screaming and holding their arms up. I’m
totally blown away. The set is one perfect
song after another. Its one of those times
where you know there’s only one place in the
whole universe to be and you’re right there.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RiQgEn5ibYg
Its getting on for 7.00PM and the sun starts to set behind the audience, they sing “The Drugs
don’t work.” It’s indescribable. The camera’s are switching shots and the three large displays
above the stage are alternately showing the ever brightening sunset, the half moon and the lead
singer. Its five minutes plus of complete auditory and visual bliss. At the end the singer says, “You
should see the sky behind you. It’s really beautiful.” Damn right.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fERekxzkjFE&NR
Could the Sex Pistols possibly be any better than this? Then the familiar violin at the beginning of
Bittersweet Symphony starts and the crowd erupts in a huge cheer. The sun has set and the
stage lights add to the hallucinatory effect of the twilight mixed with the thin whispers of clouds
and the bright, clear moon.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zx3m4e45bTo
Everyone sings along, swaying in time and waving their arms. There’s nothing bitter about this
symphony. Three quarters of the way through the song and I figure it’s the last one, so I start
moving back through the crowd. Everyone is transfixed. I see the look on their faces and they are
all clapping and moving even at the furthest point from the stage. I can’t stop clapping as I walk
The Sex Pistols
The sounds of The Verve fade out slowly behind me
and its really the perfect way to end. I’m thinking
the cost of the whole day was worth it just for that
40 minutes. I’ve become adept at beating the
crowds and I move quickly up the hill towards the
stage. Its the first time and at the top of the hill
there’s a great view looking back of the Osaka
skyline. Looking forward I can see the ocean and
there’s a stronger and very welcome breeze. Am I
really going to be able to see The Sex Pistols? I
can’t believe how great the day’s been. Now for the
piece de resistance.
It’s a long walk, at least 15 minutes from the Ocean stage, but finally the front of the Sky stage
comes into view. There’s plenty of room quite close to the stage and I quickly find a good place
to stand. At about the time they are supposed to start to play the lights go down and a crackly
old version of “Always be an England” starts to play. The large crowd claps in time and cheers.
The cheers fade as the song keeps going, and going. Even after 10 minutes there’s no sign of the
band. A reggae song plays. The crowd is waiting patiently but its starting to wear thin after 15
minutes. Then again “Always be an England” starts and again it reaches the end with no sign of
the band. I am thinking that this is to be expected, John Lydon’s way of fucking with the
audience. Manipulating them. I mean us. But still, it’s been a long day and I was hoping to catch
Paul Weller at the end.
It would be easy to be cynical about the whole affair
anyway. I mean all these old bands whose time has
come and gone, reforming. Many of the people in the
audience were not even alive when Johnny (Lydon)
Rotten, Steve Jones, Glen Matlock and Paul Cook first
went on stage. Since, after all, the Sex Pistols had
became more widely known for their misbehavior than
their musical ability it seems dubious to consider this a
“real” event. But as cynical as I am, it is impossible to
underestimate the effect they had on rock music. The
Sex Pistols and the British punk movement they propelled, was a reaction to the near depression
of the UK at the time. Punk and anarchism were the natural counterweights to fascism and
economic stagnation. Unfortunately as two opposites tend to meet at the extremes, Punk shared
elements of the doctrines it supposedly repudiated,
notably racism and a general disdain for the weak,
elderly and powerless. The right-wing government
oppressed the weak through privatization and the
police force. The punk movement through violence,
destruction and lawlessness. But that, as they say, was
there and then and this is here and now. A different
country, a different age. And we, a few thousand
patient, tired music fans are standing at the top of a hill
wondering if we will have to walk down again without
hearing one of the most famous bands of all time.
And then they appear. Johnny Rotten marches staunchly to center stage with the microphone,
picks up his microphone stand and hurls it to the back of the stage. He then proceeds to tell the
audience that he is not in good health, “I have a sore throat,” he says and then, more
dramatically, “Johnny, sicko”. This tone continues for the length of the performance. Usually
condescending and accusatory, occasionally conciliatory and self deprecating. At the beginning of
each song he takes a swig of beer, swirls it around like mouthwash and spits it out on stage. At
one point he throws what appears to be a spotlight at a mechanized camera boom that has
swung in from the side. Bothered by a small stage monitor in front of him, a few times he seems
to be about to kick it off the stage. It is all quite entertaining. Every now and then half-filled
plastic bottles of water bounce on to the stage from the audience, occasionally appearing to hit
band members. They just ignore them. A Japanese guy in a yukata stands at the end of the stage
looking like he will pounce on anyone who gets too close. But we are there for the music and we
are not disappointed.
The Verve had made my chest move but The Sex Pistols make the ground move. It is fantastic. I
can’t believe the technical virtuosity of all the band members, including Johnny Rotten who never
seems to suffer from the effects of
his so-called sore throat. Steve
Jones’ guitar playing was, I truly
believe, the best of any of the bands
I saw play. The bass player and
drummer also were flawless.
Complete synergy. They play on and
on, one hit after another, Holidays in
the Sun, EMI, Pretty Vacant, God
Save the Queen... The crowd laps it
up and in between almost every
song, Johnny Rotten goads the
audience, pitting one side against
the other to see who can cheer the
loudest. They play for over an hour
until they suddenly put down their
instruments and leave the stage. “We’ll come back if you make enough noise.” So the crowd
shouts and claps for 5 minutes until the band members reappear. Johnny Rotten
uncharacteristically apologizes. “Sorry. I had a cigarette,” he says and then adds. “I know, bad.
Smoking bad.” Then the familiar chords of the song that I, at least, have been waiting for,
Anarchy in the UK. They play it for at least 10 minutes. The bass and guitar players moving up in
front of the drummer and slowly raising the tempo. It’s incredible, a real peak experience. Then
they are off the stage again. A few people start to walk away, but the instruments are still on
stage and the lights are off. People chant for a few minutes until Johnny Rotten’s voice appears.
“Do you want more? Are you sure?” More cheers and they are all back for a seemingly never
ending version of Road Runner. Then with a few words of thanks and goodbyes, 90 minutes after
taking the stage, they are gone. It is an unbelievable end to a great day.
Getting Home
My legs ache and I’m hungry. My ears buzz as I walk down the hill and towards the buses that wait
far way. It takes more than two hours to get home, after a brief stop at a burger place near
Universal Studios (Japan) where the bus drops us off. A seemingly never ending stream of
hundreds of busses carrying thousands of tired but happy people.
Summer Sonic 2009. Only another year to wait.