VOGUE 426x276 F-GB_SC M2 INDIA_A
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VOGUE 426x276 F-GB_SC M2 INDIA_A
VIEW vogue.in social media’s fashion icons STYLE WEB OF INFLUENCE 148 VOGUE INDIA MARCH 2014 www.vogue.in ____________ BURBERRY Burberry.com Any talk of ‘digital’ and ‘fashion’ points right back to the 157-year-old British brand known for its iconic trench coat. Since 2006, Burberry, with 16 million Facebook fans, has integrated a digital culture at its core. Pushed forward by the American-born Angela Ahrendts, who was CEO from 2006 until October 2013, the brand’s S/S 2014 London Fashion Week show partnered with Apple (where Ahrendts is headed to manage its retail efforts from mid-2014). Photos and videos shared via social media were captured Madhu Shah in Art Of The Trench using a set of iPhone 5s devices (not released at the time). A photo of British-Indian model Neelam Johal wearing a polka-dot shirt and lace pencil skirt has nearly 15,000 likes on Instagram. Visit Burberry’s London head office and Christopher Bailey the staff aren’t surfing Facebook; they’re on Burberry Chat— the company’s in-house communication platform, which chief creative and newly appointed chief executive officer Christopher Bailey uses, too. > REX FEATURES O Over two billion people use the internet. They could be looking at anything from the latest political uprising and Jimmy Choo slingbacks to a photograph of British model Cara Delevingne reading bedtime stories to her sister’s children. British photographer Nick Knight set up his revolutionary fashion website SHOWstudio.com in 2000 because he was interested in the moments that only he could see. “It has never been to dispel myths about the industry,” he says, but rather about showing the magic behind the campaigns he was creating at the time for Dior. Former Spice Girl Victoria Beckham augmented her reincarnation as fashion designer by using Twitter to charm over seven million of us. Tavi Gevinson—who came to the fashion world’s attention as a 12-yearold fashion blogger—is now the fullfledged editor-in-chief of her own online publication for teenage girls, which boasts nearly 1,00,000 followers on both Twitter and Instagram. This is, truly, fashion as it happens. Here’s Vogue’s list of the men and women who are revolutionising the way we consume fashion, the biggest players of the World Wide Web. Welcome to the democracy. BUSINESS The internet is a fashion voyeur’s playground—Oscar de la Renta clutching a jar of pickles, or Victoria Beckham’s travel plans, anybody? But there’s some serious business happening. Vogue brings you the digital world’s game changers. Click, like, follow now. By DAL CHODHA Business viEW Meagan Cignoli Meagan Cignoli, the New York-based fashion and portrait photographer, enjoys a bit of trial and error—be it the six-second clip she made of her walking her dog or a short viral featuring Dolce & Gabbana make-up. “I did not Miroslava Duma’s many looks 150 voguE indiA MARCH 2014 www.vogue.in know my first 10 Vines had sound, because you have to click the sound on,” she recalls. So after whirling under a cherry blossom tree for about an hour, Cignoli fell into a little hole, and it took her a month to realise that you could hear her falling in the clip. “But it was the prettiest Vine so I left the sound in,” she smiles. Cignoli began experimenting with the mobile app that enables users to create short video clips for Twitter and Instagram one month after it launched last year and today creates short videos for numerous clients. She’s been nominated for the 2013 Tribeca Film Festival #6sec Film Competition twice. How has her photography changed? “I’m thinking more about motion now and less about stillness.” ____________________ MIROSLAVA DUMA Instagram.com/miraduma Miroslava Duma has dominated streetstyle blogs since arriving on the scene a few seasons ago wearing a whole host of beautiful clothes by her favourite designers—Vika Gazinskaya, Marni, Chanel, Phoebe Philo. A former editor at Russian Harper’s Bazaar and the daughter of a Russian senator, Duma founded Buro 24/7, a website dedicated to fashion, art, architecture, cinema, music and style, and is busy working on more global launches. “We’ve never had any history of fashion in Russia, but there has been a revolution of thinking,” she told the Telegraph in 2012. Duma, who lives in Moscow, liaises with Buro’s global editors and the half a million followers she has on Instagram. As digital media director at TsUM, Moscow’s renowned department store, founder of charity foundation Peace Planet and Buro 24/7 (Croatia, Ukraine, Kazakhstan, Middle East and the UK), there’s a lot to like. > REX FEATURES ___________________ MEAGAN CIGNOLI Ilovemeagan.com street style star Digital means big business. In 2013, KCD Digital was ranked sixth in the New York Observer’s ‘The Power 50 List’ of agencies in New York—the highest position for a fashion agency. Its managing director, Rachna Shah, cut her teeth at Victoria’s Secret. “It was amazing how this content that Victoria’s Secret always used to develop for broadcasters— behind-the-scenes interviews and brand videos, among a few— became like candy to the digital media,” she says. KCD developed the digital fashion show platform, which created a digital experience from the assets that the press and retailers get from a live fashion show. The challenge for KCD was how a fashion and PR strategy could be applied to digital. “It took some time to focus on what we could do best in this area,” Shah says, “and then we realised that it was about growing the skill set we had already developed.” vine-r ______________ KCD DIGITAL Kcdworldwide.com e-tailer viEW ____________________________ LAUREN SANTO DOMINGO Modaoperandi.com Have you ever rushed into your favorite boutique at the beginning of the season, only to find out that the dress you’d seen on the runway six months ago was never made? Does your local boutique always sell out of your size first? If you’re nodding your head in agreement, Lauren Santo Domingo, one of the world’s most recognised style authorities, has the answer. She is co-founder and creative director of Moda Operandi, the online retailer that allows you to “pre-order tomorrow’s fashion today.” Domingo launched the site in 2010 along with former Gilt Groupe executive Áslaug Magnúsdóttir who, says she, was getting so used to hearing designers grumble that many of their favourite pieces were never ordered by traditional retailers (and, therefore, never produced). In its first year the site gained over 1,00,000 members who were preordering looks straight from the runways of established designers like Carolina Herrera, Prabal Gurung and Rochas, and promoting newer talent like Stella Jean and Clover Canyon and a sale devoted to Russia’s newest talents, titled Russian Evolution. The site also offers a year-round boutique stocked with clothes and accessories from designers like Proenza Schouler, Alexander Wang and Isabel Marant. Previously, Domingo worked as PR director for Paris-based furrier J Mendel, where she assisted in launching the brand’s ready-to-wear collection, and also helmed the PR department of Carolina Herrera. She’s also a contributing editor at US Vogue, so if there’s anyone you can trust, it’s her. 152 voguE indiA MARCH 2014 www.vogue.in GETTY IMAGES; ARTHUR ELGORT Celebrities such as Rachel Bilson and Nicole Richie are fans of Los Angeles-based Who What Wear, a self-proclaimed “authority for trend-setting fashionistas and their followers between the ages of 18-34.” Launched in 2006 by Hillary Kerr and Katherine Power—two former Elle magazine editors—the site is more of an online magazine than blog and their daily newsletter covers the latest in celebrity fashion, runway trends and beauty secrets. The site even includes online video and books; Who What Wear TV was the number one downloaded fashion podcast on iTunes during its entire four-season run. With its inclusive voice and approach, they have over 1 million daily subscribers and 4,44,290 followers on Instagram. In their very own words, just “double tap if you’d like to see more!” > instagram ____________________ WHO WHAT WEAR Instagram.com/whowhatwear Hillary Kerr, Rachel Zoe, Katherine Power and Jessica Alba VIEW BLOG Eva Chen. Inset: With Karlie Kloss ___________ INTO THE GLOSS Instagram.com/ intothegloss Into The Gloss’ most-read post of all time is from 2010 and features the American model Karlie Kloss. The post, which comes under the site’s Top Shelf section (where interviewees are asked about their personal beauty regimens and make-up finds), hears Kloss 154 VOGUE INDIA MARCH 2014 www.vogue.in waxing lyrical about Lancôme’s Définicils mascara and Laura Mercier Secret Camouflage concealer. Founded in 2010 by Emily Weiss, the site includes the beauty finds and routines of influencers, tutorials, product reviews, inspiration and shopping, and has almost 1,00,000 followers. Weiss developed an almost encyclopaedic knowledge of models, stylists and hair and make-up artists after years of working in fashion, beginning first as an intern in the Ralph Lauren design studio at the age of 15, going on to work at Teen Vogue and W magazines, and assisting Elissa Santisi, former style director at Vogue. The site’s Instagram feed serves as a behind-the-scenes look at upcoming stories and shoots. Check Weiss’ own feed for candid selfies with makeup maestros Pat McGrath and Tom Pecheux and the odd photograph of Eddie Murphy. Jennifer Fleiss and Jennifer Hyman _____________________ RENT THE RUNWAY Renttherunway.com Jennifer Hyman and Jennifer Fleiss, two Harvard classmates who bonded over girls’ nights in and a love of fashion, launched Rent The Runway in 2009 after a case of that familiar ‘closet full of clothes but nothing to wear’ moment. By August 2010, it was named one of the 50 best websites by TIME magazine. “I spent way too much money shopping because I was always chasing trends. My MARCH closet filled up with PICKS pieces I would only The founders end up wearing once pick the hottest or twice,” Jennifer pieces to rent Hyman, CEO this month and co-founder, remembers. The concept is simple; the site features clothes from labels ‘Hollywood House’ such as Badgley minaudiere, Mischka, Calvin Serpui Marie Klein Collection, Issa and Nachiket Barve in sizes 0 to 16, which members can rent for their needs. ‘Papillon Each rental includes Drop’ a back-up size at no earrings, additional cost to Alexis Bittar ensure fit and a prepaid, pre-addressed package to return the dress afterwards. “We were surprised that our customers weren’t just sharing their experiences with close friends but also with the entire online community.” It’s something that the duo has built on with Our Runway, a platform on the site that allows women to shop by photos of ‘Sonoran real customers with Desert similar body types Cactus’ dress, wearing the dresses. > Matthew GETTY IMAGES The editor in chief at Lucky Magazine, Eva Chen’s digital OMG moment was a snap of One Direction’s raffish Harry Styles as he walked past her at the Burberry show in London. It was a month later that Chen noticed Kevin Systrom, CEO and co-founder of Instagram, lurking in the background (the photograph has almost 2,000 likes). When she first started using the platform, Chen, previously at Teen Vogue, began talking about shoes, skincare and manicures. “I really think that the secret to social media is being consistent. Living in New York and working in the fashion industry is such a privilege: I want to share it with others!” Cue a lot of shots of Chen’s accessories, in the back of taxis, and uploads of her beauty finds. With over 95,000 followers, what Chen loves most is the direct access she has to her readers. “I can do a temperature check of trend and celebrities. Who needs focus groups? I love the feeling of being in a digital community: you are never alone online.” E-TAILER INSTAGRAM ____________ EVA CHEN Instagram.com/ evachen212 Williamson blog viEW INSTAgRAM ________ COCO ROCHA Instagram.com/ cocorocha blog Model Coco Rocha has come a long way since first being scouted at an Irish dance competition in 2002. By February 2006, she was on the cover of Vogue Italia, photographed by Steven Meisel. The true ‘Coco Moment’—a phrase coined by US Vogue— came when she opened Jean Paul Gaultier’s Scottish Highlands-inspired autumn/winter 2007 show by Irish-dancing down the runway. Rocha is big on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram and Tumblr, and in April 2012 became the first Founder Chris Laverty picks his favourite looks on film: Sharon Stone in Basic Instinct; Catherine Deneuve in Belle de Jour; Helena Bonham Carter in Fight Club 156 voguE indiA MARCH 2014 www.vogue.in high-fashion model to have more than one million followers on the social media platform Google+. At the end of each week she posts a roundup of her ‘Life via Instagram’ on her blog: “I get a new look, make a few friends, and spend a little bit of time in LA!” and you can follow the whole thing from the comfort of your smartphone. Her feed is a blend of modelling, TVhosting and publicspeaking work, showing anything from a visit to Tumblr’s New York HQ to attending a Masters Tea at Yale University. As well as offering an account of the fabulous life of a supermodel, Rocha uses social media to raise consciousness. In 2012 she wrote an open letter to the New York Times asking, “How can any person justify an aesthetic that reduces a woman or child to an emaciated skeleton? Is it art? Surely fashion’s aesthetic should enhance and beautify the human form, not destroy it.” ____________________ CLOTHES ON FILM Clothesonfilm.com How many times have you lusted after Keira Knightley’s green silk dress in Atonement? Or thought about Annie Hall’s iconic pantsuit? Clothes On Film pulls the role of the costume designer firmly into the spotlight. Writer, broadcaster and costume consultant Chris Laverty launched the blog in 2009. “I cannot view anything without thinking about the costume design. It’s a curse!” he jokes. The blog’s aim was to examine costume and identity in movies, featuring detailed articles on outfits, reviews, news and exclusive interviews. “The craft of costume designers is still somewhat underappreciated. If I can get one more person to take notice of the clothes they see in a movie or on television, I can die a happy man.” If the blogging community were anything like bees, Susanna Lau (known widely as Susie Bubble) would be their queen. After eight years of writing about fashion with a focus on spotlighting young and unknown talent, Lau has been at the fore of what we now know as fashion blogging. In 2013, Lau joined NowManifest, a network of style bloggers owned by Condé Nast. With projects for Gap, Dr. Martens, Giorgio Armani, Selfridges and Hong Kong boutique Joyce, Lau says that digital culture has broadened not just her perspective but her horizons, too. “I’m an avid and in-depth researcher and I think the internet just facilitates that in a way that traditional libraries and resources can’t. That just enriches what I do as a blogger. I think Oscar Wilde would have been a great blogger and would have used social media platforms in a witty way,” she says. “Actually, I think a lot of great classic authors would have loved the internet.” > AFP ________ STYLE BUBBLE Stylebubble.co.uk ____________________ VICTORIA BECKHAM @VICTORIABECKHAM Unsurprisingly, Victoria Beckham’s Twitter account is a rolling account of the life of a pop-star-cumfootballer-wife-cum-fashiondesigner-and-style-icon. With over seven million followers (or ‘fashion bunnies’), her profile is a peek into her life—meeting customers at in-store events one minute and on her hands and knees at a fitting with best friend Eva Longoria the next. In three 140-characterlong bursts, Beckham boards a private jet to Berlin to be presented with an award by Karl Lagerfeld and attends a dinner hosted by Vogue Germany (where the table’s been dressed using 8,000 white roses), before flying to Munich. Now that’s something to Tweet about. _______________________ LIBERTY LONDON GIRL, SASHA WILKINS @LIBERTYLNDNGIRL Sasha Wilkins steals seconds between working as a style journalist, editor and broadcaster and updating her multiaward-winning lifestyle blog, LibertyLondonGirl, to tweet, on average, 20 times a day to her 95,628 (and growing) followers. She says Twitter is a great way to connect with people that she may never meet in the real world, and to keep on top of breaking news. Her stream is a catalogue of everything from the best blow-dry to the Bangladesh Fire And Building Safety Accord. “It’s important to remember that nothing is permanently deleted on the internet... so think before you Tweet...” Her rule of thumb? “Don’t Tweet anything you wouldn’t say in the real world.” 158 VoguE IndIA MARCH 2014 www.vogue.in 5 Sep ‘13 OscarPRGirl @OscarPRGirl dot calm. Oscar’s spring inspiration sketch from today’s WWD REPLY RETWEET FAVORITE 7 Nov ‘13 OscarPRGirl @OscarPRGirl “we are not looking for endless variety--we are looking for fashion.”—diana vreeland, memos REPLY RETWEET FAVORITE 9 Jan OscarPRGirl @OscarPRGirl margot robbie wearing Oscar tonight in london. she-wolf REPLY RETWEET FAVORITE 25 Oct ‘13 Victoria Beckham @victoriabeckham LOVED meeting @lenadunham at the CFDA Fashion Fund in LA x vb REPLY RETWEET FAVORITE 21 Nov ‘13 Victoria Beckham @victoriabeckham Big clear out of my shoes, on sale tomorrow in aid of @BritishRedCross #ShopDrop x vb REPLY RETWEET FAVORITE 2 Dec ‘13 Victoria Beckham @victoriabeckham The new @vogueparis issue that I guest edited is out today! X vb REPLY RETWEET FAVORITE FashionEditoratLarge @fashedatlarge 13 Dec ‘13 After everyone getting angsty about fashion week zoos and circuses, is it all about to change? REPLY RETWEET FAVORITE 8 Jan FashionEditoratLarge @fashedatlarge So, this is the year of wearable technology (apparently) but what will we actually be wearing? REPLY RETWEET FAVORITE FashionEditoratLarge @fashedatlarge 24 Oct ‘13 In Paris with Isabel Marant chatting about her husband stealing her clothes, copycats & adoring fans #hmisabelmarant REPLY RETWEET FAVORITE Liberty London Girl @LibertyLndnGirl 22 Nov ‘13 Things to make your heart beat faster: an early morning delivery from chanel_fashion REPLY RETWEET FAVORITE Liberty London Girl @LibertyLndnGirl 22 Nov ‘13 More extraordinary millinery at Isabella Blow: Fashion Galore at Somerset House REPLY RETWEET FAVORITE TWITTER VIEW ______________ OSCARPRGIRL, ERIKA BEARMAN @OSCARPRGIRL Erika Bearman, senior vice president of communications for Oscar de la Renta, has a sense of humour to match her closet. She has achieved the highest of meme praise, parodied on YouTube in a ‘Sh*t OscarPRGirl Says’ video seen by more than 27,000 people. Bearman joined Twitter in 2009 to open up the Park Avenue, ladieswho-lunch label to a new audience and her authenticity and individual personal style has gained the brand over 2,00,000 followers. From her quest to find a rose-gold French press, selfies in OdlR ball gowns and decadent furs to a photograph of de la Renta himself clutching a jar of pickles, Bearman’s Twitter stream is pure Sex And The City for Generation Y. _________________________ FASHIONEDITORATLARGE, MELANIE RICKEY @FASHEDATLARGE Fashion editor at large of the internet is Melanie Rickey. A writer, editor and consultant, Rickey has covered fashion since 1996 and her blog comprises news, gossip, insight and observations on happenings in the fashion world. After a career that included working at the Independent, Daily Telegraph and Sunday Times and writing for Vogue, Rickey became one of the launch editors of British Grazia and its digital component. She has been at the beginning of the print-to-digital shift, so it’s no wonder that over 42,000 people follow her every word on Twitter, where she can be tweeting on her current favourite TV show, a Bobbi Brown makeover or news of Topshop’s latest collaboration. Rickey’s Twitter tip is clear: “Add to the conversation by sharing unique and wellinformed information.” > VIEW Have you ever wondered what hangers Vogue’s digital creative director, Sally Singer, uses or how Rachel Zoe folds her jumpers? Well then, after Vogue.in, The Coveteur should be your next daily ____________ FARFETCH Farfetch.com Looking for a site that unites over 1,05,000 items from more than 2,500 brands? Established in 2008 by entrepreneur José Neves, Farfetch boasts more than digital destination—they take style personally. Cofounded by designer Erin Kleinberg, stylist Stephanie Mark and photographer Jake Rosenberg in January 2011, the site had 20,000 hits on its first day. Today, the site boasts more than 350 Coveteurs offering a glimpse into their closets, homes, backstage, ateliers and archives all in beautifully curated images. “I get inspired to try new things by the people we shoot and also people that I see just scrolling through Instagram,” Stephanie Mark says. “It’s a bit of a doubleedged sword, sadly, as that also prevents you from wearing the same outfit too many times!” five million monthly visits from over 175 countries and brings together the collections of Europe, North America and Asia’s most influential designer boutiques. You’re only five clicks away from buying a skirt from Brazil or a bag from Belgium. Last year, Mumbai’s very own Le Mill was winner of the site’s SUPERSTORE Award, established to support the growth and creativity of independent boutiques. It is the first Indian store to join Farfetch’s network. Co-founder Cecilia Morelli Parikh said, “We hope that Le Mill can give its customers a small glimpse into the incredible energy and creativity of Mumbai.” Yes, India’s so fetch. ‘Amelia’ wrap dress, Diane von Furstenberg; colour-block skirt, Proenza Schouler 160 VOGUE INDIA MARCH 2014 www.vogue.in E-TAILER _________________ THE COVETEUR Thecoveteur.com BLOG BLOG Clockwise from top: Shoes galore at stylist Elizabeth Stewart’s home; co-founders Stephanie Mark and Jake Rosenberg; supermodel Miranda Kerr; shoes at student and philanthropist Kimberley Ntsimi’s home ________________ LISA ELDRIDGE Lisaeldridge.com What Lisa Eldridge doesn’t know about making up faces isn’t worth tweeting about. Her passion for make-up was ignited at the age of six, when she discovered a box of her mother’s vintage Mary Quant and Coty makeup dating back to the 1960s at her grandmother’s house. With a career spanning over 20 years, Eldridge found that hits to her website— which at the time was just her online portfolio—would go into hundreds of thousands after her regular UK TV appearances in 2010. As a result she started to get a lot of letters asking for make-up advice. “I had seen what was going on with amateur beauty videos and how the whole YouTube thing was exploding and I noticed there was no one like me who was working successfully in the industry,” she says. “I thought I could offer a different approach.” Alongside building content on the site, Eldridge continues to work on countless magazine covers and editorial shoots, whilst creating over 40 unique videos a year for Chanel. “We are living in extraordinary times. ‘Peer to peer’ has become the most trusted form of product recommendation and people no longer trust advertising, product placement and sponsored content. When it comes to beauty, brands and magazines now have to work that much harder to connect with and satisfy their customers and readers… which is no bad thing.” Her 7,45,000-plus subscribers agree. > VIEW Six years ago, Mexican born and raised Andy Torres was presented with the opportunity to relocate to Amsterdam. She arrived in the city with the dream of pursuing a fashion career but after a year of rejections she realised that the best way to get herself noticed might be the internet. StyleScrapbook was born. As a child, Torres was taller than her siblings, and her earliest memory of fashion is of her mother making clothes for her and learning how to sew herself. She hosts a television series aired all over Latin America, called Click, in which she gives fashion tips and makeovers. Besides, she’s designed a camera bag line with Kipling, was Mango’s ‘It’ girl for the autumn/winter 2011 campaign and, the same year, delivered a TED talk on the key to successful Andy blogging. Her Torres 2,79,346 Instagram followers are fed daily updates on her outfits and photos from picturesque strolls along Amsterdam’s canals (and the city’s tempting pastries). Sometimes, she turns the tables on us: “Yes or no to this sweater?” she grins in one photo. 162 VOGUE INDIA MARCH 2014 www.vogue.in Although Man Repeller sounds like some sort of ointment, American author and fashion blogger Leandra Medine had an almost feminist mission when setting up the site in 2010. Explaining her blog to the Daily Mail, she said, “Good fashion is about pleasing women, not men, so as it happens, the trends that we love, men hate. And that is fantastic.” The site, which has an audience of more than 1,69,900 Twitter followers, 4,55,000 Instagram followers and 1,30,200 Facebook followers, is about dressing for you rather than dressing to attract the attention of men. Simple! “Such garments include—but are not limited to—harem pants, boyfriend jeans, overalls, shoulder pads, full-length jumpsuits, jewellery that resembles violent weaponry and clogs,” the site clarifies. Born and raised in New York City, Medine obtained her undergraduate degree from The New School, where she majored in journalism, and today employs three people to assist her with ad sales and articles, which cover everything from Woody Allen’s birthday to finding love in the hands of Google. The harem pants didn’t hinder Medine’s own chances with the opposite sex; at her recent wedding, she wore a Marchesa gown with a Rebecca Minkoff leather jacket and embellished Superga sneakers. Man repellant? We don’t think so. 1,10,000 views every day. “I didn’t know that starting to blog would take me where I am right now!” she says. In 2011, New York Magazine called her “one of the biggest breakout street-style stars of the year.” Ferragni is still studying to be a lawyer but, like many young women around the world, fashion has been an overarching passion and she posts photographs of her looks onto the site almost daily. If The Blonde Salad is about anything, it’s accessories. She recently bagged a vintage 2.55 double-flap Chanel bag and a maxi Hermès Kelly bag from Beverly Hills’ LXR & Co. after putting it to Instagram jury. “Fashion makes me feel confident and happy wearing what I like. It’s such a nice form of art.” ■ All statistics based on facts and figures recorded at the time of going to press BLOG _____________________ STYLE SCRAPBOOK instagram.com/stylescrapbook Leandra Medine in her menrepelling looks ________________ MAN REPELLER Manrepeller.com BLOG INSTAGRAM ■ Chiara Ferragni _____________________ THE BLONDE SALAD Theblondesalad.com Chiara Ferragni is Italy’s most prominent fashion blogger. For two years running she was recognised by Bloglovin’ with awards for ‘Newcomer Blogger of the Year’ (2011) and ‘Blogger Business of the Year’ (2012), and her site, The Blonde Salad (no recipes included), has more than WE ARE ON