stamp out racism!

inside
Good eats
this summer
Polish
Cinema
June 2012
Edition 92
ISSN 1898-4762
www.krakowpost.com
STAMP OUT RACISM!
Anthony Casey
Racism in Krakow should be combated by a
‘hearts and minds’ educational programme,
to complement the city’s ongoing cleanup campaign, according to an influential
association promoting multiculturalism.
Interkulturalny.pl carried out an
extensive survey amongst foreigners
living in Krakow, earlier this year. It also
submitted a strategy document to the city
council, suggesting ways in which graffiti –
especially racist, anti-semitic or otherwise
offensive slogans - could be tackled.
The association also has a ‘street of
shame’ gallery on its website, to which
members of the public can submit
photographs of buildings that have been
daubed with racist tags.
The issue hit the headlines once again in
May when the BBC aired a documentary
ahead of the forthcoming European
Championships.
Called Euro 2012: Stadiums of Hate.
The documentary gave the impression that
football in Poland and the tournament cohost Ukraine were riddled with racism and
Neo-Nazism.
Authorities in Poland, including those in
Krakow, reacted angrily to the broadcast,
saying that the programme presented a
‘biased’ view based on problems caused
by a minority of hooligans.
Nevertheless, rivalry and violence is
ever-present among the hooligan elements
of Krakow’s two big clubs – Wisła and
Cracovia – and graffiti around the city
describes the teams as either ‘White Star’
or ‘Dogs’ (Wisła), and ‘Pasy’ or ‘Jews’
(Cracovia).
Interkulturalny’s Adam Bulandry said
that the association had seen a marked
increase in racist graffiti in Krakow since
2007. He told the newspaper Gazeta
Wyborcza that the city suffered from
‘institutional racism’, accepted passively
by the public.
Filip Szatanik, deputy director of the
city’s Department of Information, said
racist graffiti and other incidents should
be reported to the police. On the clean-up
operation, he added: “We will immediately
intervene.”
Krakow spends around 150,000zł each
year on removing graffiti, but admits that
resources are limited. Police are working
with Interkulturalny, to build a profile
of the graffiti problem in the city and to
identify persistent offenders. Wisła and
Cracovia – whose ‘pseudo-fans’ are the
source of some of the more directly racist
and less literate tags around the city - have
also vowed to work on stamping out racism
in their stadiums.
Behind the lines
“
…the anti-hooligan squad
Stay safe and legal
“
…don’t get red carded
Krakow United
KRAKOW OCCUPIED – BRIEFLY “
Poland’s key players
…a local, multinational team
A global protest movement reached
Krakow in May – but lasted just a few
days before police broke up their camp in
a dawn raid.
Occupy,
protesting
against
the
stranglehold that they say benefits large
companies and financial institutions over
ordinary people, set up camp in the Rynek
Główny on May 22.
But, on May 26 at 6am, police moved
in to break up the protest, deemed by city
authorities to be illegal. At least 15 people
are required in order for a protest to be
legitimate, but officials said that only five
took part in the Occupy Krakow event.
Protest organisers argued that there were 19
people, but that authorities had deliberately
‘overlooked’ those in the tents.
Some of the protestors went willingly
when police moved in, but others had to
be removed by force. According to the
newspaper Gazeta Krakowska, up to 30
people were demonstrating during the
police raid, but it is not clear how many
of these had been part of the camp since
“
“Krakow is not a company, it’s our city” (Photo: David McGirr)
the beginning. Tents and equipment were
seized, and organisers now face a fine of
around 1,000zł.
However, the protest may not yet be dead.
Occupy organisers in Krakow are now in
talks with the managers of the Bunkier
Sztuki gallery, and hope to re-establish
their camp at the gallery’s car park.
…a defining moment
2
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Krakow Post | June 2012
Behind the lines with Poland’s
anti-hooligan police
David McGirr and Jamie Stokes
Polish police are well prepared for
troublemakers at this summer’s Euro 2012
tournament. They have the equipment,
the training and, most importantly, the
experience.
Hooligan violence is nothing new
in Poland. The keen rivalry between
supporters of Krakow’s two biggest
teams, Wisła and Cracovia, for example,
has brought violence to the streets many
times.
The Krakow Post went behind the
scenes with the police as they prepared
for a potentially explosive event in the
Polish footballing calendar – the WisłaCracovia Derby.
A sophisticated intelligence-gathering
and surveillance unit works closely with
front-line riot squads to spot trouble
before it happens, and to come down hard
on lawbreakers.
When Euro 2012 begins, Polish antihooligan units will be joined by intelligence
experts from participating nations.
The message is clear: Enjoy the matches
and have a good time, but if the line is
crossed, the boys in black are going to
wrap it up in short order.
13:30
5 hours to kick-off
It’s an unseasonably hot day in April as
members of Krakow’s Anti-Hooligan Crime
Unit assemble at police headquarters for the
start of a working day that will stretch long
into the night.
There are 11 members of this undercover
unit on duty today – a small but vital fraction
of the 604 officers policing the match.
Their duties include monitoring the array
of CCTV cameras in the stadium control
room and carrying out covert surveillance of
fans using hand held video cameras. They use
these to identify agitators and ringleaders.
Intelligence suggests that Cracovia fans
will gather in the Market Square and then
march to the match in protest at a government
crackdown on football fans.
There are also reports that fans will bring
balaclavas, black jackets and dark glasses in
an effort to frustrate efforts to identify them.
Any fan covering their face today will be
committing an offence under Polish law.
Wisła’s stadium has a capacity of 33,000,
but only 1,000 tickets have been allocated for
Cracovia fans.
Teams are required to provide police with
a list of all ticket holders at least 24 hours
before an away match, but the list arrives
late. Officers work fast to compare the names
to those with stadium bans, and find three
matches – their details are circulated.
A convoy of riot vans rolls up the street
leading to the square. Accompanying them is
the menacing shape of a police water canon,
affectionately know as the ‘Typhoon.’ The
armoured, 16-tonne vehicle is a clear sign
that the police will not be tolerating trouble.
The Unit go to work identifying ringleaders.
They note that many fans are carrying black
jackets, despite the sweltering heat.
A small group of fans on the café terrace
of the Sukiennice attempt to unfurl a large
banner, but it is quickly pulled down.
A mobile CCTV unit sits in a corner of the
square, its occupants monitoring the growing
crowd using roof-mounted cameras and feeds
from other equipment around the square.
14:00
The undercover team, dressed casually
in shorts and loose fitting shirts, are issued
handcuffs and handguns. Video and still
cameras are also distributed. Their unmarked
vehicles are in the car park.
Also parked outside are half a dozen
police riot vans. An officer of the riot squad
(Oddziały Prewencji Policji) cradling a pump
action shotgun sits in the open door of one.
His ammunition pouch is stuffed with
rubber bullet rounds. Aimed at the legs, these
are capable of bringing a rioter down at a
range of 30 metres.
14:30
The Anti-Hooligan Unit deploys across the
city to monitor fan activity. One car heads to
the Market Square and confirms that dozens
of fans wearing the red and white stripes of
Cracovia are beginning to congregate there.
The hulking ‘Typhoon’ water canon on Krakow’s picturesque streets (Photo: David McGirr)
15:35
Cracovia fans begin their protest march,
accompanied police in full riot gear carrying
shotguns and a convoy of police vehicles.
The surveillance car tags on to the end
of the convoy. Red flares belch thick white
smoke, and the explosions of fireworks
tossed by the marchers are deafening in the
narrow streets.
Police dog handlers are present to keep the
fans in line and some officers are carrying the
twin-tank backpacks of high volume tear gas
dispersal systems.
15:55
The marching Cracovia fans arrive at
Błonia and assemble outside their own
stadium. A line of police with riot shields
stand across the road from the fans, waiting
for their next move.
The hulking Typhoon is parked in plain
sight. Now it is accompanied by a police
pick up truck equipped with a more hightech form of crowd control – a Long Range
Acoustic Device (LRAD), popularly known
as a ‘sonic cannon.’
LRADs are commonly used as highly
directional loud hailers for issuing police
commands during noisy street demonstrations,
but they can also emit a high frequency
‘deterrent tone’ that can cause severe pain to
anyone within range.
16:05
Cracovia fans make their move, marching
en masse onto Błonia as the police rush to cut
them off. The fans unfurl the same banner
Riot police armed with shotguns ‘escort’ Cracovia supporters (Photo: David McGirr)
Keeping a watchful eye, stadium security zooms in on potential trouble (Photo: David McGirr)
Krakow Post | June 2012 3
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but it also hides those underneath from the
eyes of the police.
Red flares are lit at the rear of the stand,
illuminating its entire length.
18:30
Kick-off
As the game begins, it is obvious that 90
per cent of the Cracovia fans have no interest
in what is happening on the pitch.
One Cracovia fan with a loudhailer leads
the team chants as fireworks and abuse are
hurled at the enemy a few metres away.
The ‘sonic canon’ (Photo: David McGirr)
they failed to display on the Sukiennice and
there is a brief stand off as police and fans
face each other a few metres apart.
Abruptly, the riot police turn their backs on
the fans – who take this as a signal to follow
– and the parade makes its way toward Wisła
stadium on the other side of the park. A police
helicopter circles overhead and the CCTV
van watches every move.
16:10
A lone figure with a Wisła scarf wrapped
around his face appears out of nowhere and
makes for the Cracovia fans. He only gets
a few steps before three burly officers jump
from a car parked unobtrusively nearby and
close in. The man quickly removes his hood
and scarf as the plainclothes men ‘have a
chat.’
16:15
Security inside the stadium is provided by
a private firm hired by the club. Also dressed
in full riot gear, only the ‘Ochrona’ (security)
logos across their backs and the lack of
firearms distinguish them from the police.
17:20
After being penned outside for an hour,
visiting fans are allowed to trickle into the
stadium.
The 1,000 Cracovia supporters are confined
to one section in the corner of the stands – the
adjoining section is kept vacant as a buffer
between them and the home fans, who are
also filling to their seats. High, metal and
perspex barriers line each section.
17:30
1 hour to kick-off
In the CCTV control room, security staff
monitor a bank of 20 screens, with police
from the Anti-Hooligan Unit looking over
their shoulders. Other officers are using
binoculars to scan the crowd.
18:10
Both sets of fans begin throwing fireworks
across no-man’s land. Individuals dive for
cover and reel with hands over their ears at
the thunderclap explosions. Small fires are
rapidly stamped out.
18:20
Wisła fans unfurl an enormous banner,
passing it over their heads until it covers the
entire stand.
It’s an impressive symbol of team support,
19:00
Wisła score the only goal of the match.
19:05
A group of Cracovia supporters unfurl
their long banner again, but this time lines
of fans stand around it shoulder to shoulder,
hiding those underneath from view. “This is
it,” comments an Anti-Hooligan Unit officer
– and he’s right.
Fans now dressed in hooded jackets and
wearing balaclavas and dark glasses emerge
from under the banner and launch an assault
on the security barrier.
For a hardcore of fans, this is what it’s all
about – closing with their rivals for a bareknuckle fight. On the streets, these tribal
clashes involve knives, machetes and bats.
A contingent of fans races to the security
gate and tries to tear it down. They are
repeatedly repelled with CS spray. Other fans
begin ripping up seats and hurling them at the
Wisła section.
Wisła fans also rush to the rear of their
section and try to break down the gate to the
buffer zone. Security staff fend them off.
Within four minutes of the violence starting,
scores of white helmeted riot police stream
into the stadium from behind each goal.
Barging onto the stands, they push both Wisła
and Cracovia fans back from the barriers.
One Cracovia fan refuses to move, and is
doused with orange-tinted CS spray before
being shoved to the ground.
The police intervention is swift, controlled
and highly professional. With the riot squad
literally breathing down their necks, fans on
both sides quickly become more interested in
the match than in taunting their rivals.
20:15
Just before full time, police snatch squads
acting on surveillance conducted during the
match, move into the Cracovia section and
make arrests.
Police intervene. Top left: Supporters put on hoods and masks under cover of a banner. Top right:
Masked fans charge security gates, and are repelled with CS spray. Bottom left: Riot police are on
the scene within minutes. Bottom right: Police tackle a defiant supporter. (Photos: David McGirr)
Marius Potaczek, deputy commander of
the Anti-Hooligan Unit, told the Krakow Post
the next day that 23 arrests had been made
and 106 fines imposed as part of an operation
that continued until 4am.
With this local matter safely resolved,
Marius and his team get back to the job of
ensuring that Euro 2012 matches will be
policed just as effectively.
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20:20
At full time, neither group of fans is keen to
leave the stadium.
Police eventually allow Wisła fans to
leave, but Cracovia supporters are kept in the
stadium for up to an hour to ensure that there
is no trouble outside the ground.
21:20
Violence is not expected around the
ground or in the city centre. Experience has
shown that fans tend to take the fight back to
Krakow’s housing estates.
The Anti-Hooligan Unit take to their
vehicles and head out to the city’s suburbs,
their work far from over.
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Jamie Stokes, Managing Editor
[email protected]
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Krakow Post | June 2012
Art house cinema saved, mostly Pied Piper required?
A historic and much-loved Krakow art
house cinema doomed to closure has been
saved at the last moment - and won a major
prize to boot.
Kino ARS, on ul. Św. Jana, was the centre
of an international media campaign, when
the owners of the building upped the price of
the lease for the prime city centre property.
The new asking price – representing a 100
per cent increase, was beyond the means of
the cinema management, and it looked as
though it would close its doors on 17 years
of history, on April 30.
However, following a thousands-strong
Facebook campaign and reports in the
international media – including the UK’s
Guardian newspaper – a new deal was
struck which allowed the cinema to stay
open. It didn’t emerge unscathed, though,
having lost its main room, which will be
let to a new tenant. The new deal, which
means ARS has lost around 240 of its seats
and can now accommodate just 300, is
valid for five years.
As if to add sugar to the rainbow, the
month of May also saw ARS pick up a
prize from the Polish Film Institute, for its
services to cinema in Poland.
In a public statement published on the
cinema website, ARS director Andrzej
Kucharczyk thanked all those who had
supported the cinema during what looked
to be its final days.
On collecting the award in Gdynia, Mr
Kucharczyk said: “A few days ago it was
unclear whether ARS would survive. It has
been running for seven years, so I am very
pleased that we have managed to save it.
We failed to save the ‘Ars’ hall, but the
others survive. We live.”
Guru to Polish satirists dies
One of Poland’s best-known satirists,
Andrzej Czeczot, has died, aged 79.
Czeczot was born in Krakow, where he
studied at the Academy of Fine Arts. But
his first cartoons were published in the
weekly magazine Szpilki, a year before his
graduation in 1957. The artist’s stabs at the
Communist regime in Poland frequently
got him into trouble, and he was arrested
on several occasions. He left Poland for the
United States in 1982, and subsequently
made his name on the international stage,
with his work appearing in The New
Yorker, Polityka, The New York Times, and
other publications around Europe.
The contemporary cartoonist Andrzej
Mleczko paid tribute to Czeczot, whom he
met at Szpilki.
Mleczko said: “He was our guru. He
had a very original approach and fresh
ideas, which at the time diverged from the
standards of satirical cartoons. We looked
up to him and tried to emulate him.”
During his career, Czeczot worked on
around 200 books and made approximately
30 short animated films. His work was
exhibited internationally, and he won
awards in Poland and abroad including, in
2008, Poland’s Gloria Artis gold medal.
Andrzej Czeczot was born on October
27, 1933. He died at his home in Warsaw,
on May 9.
The spell of hot weather that heralded the
arrival of spring in Krakow brought tourists
and locals out into the sunshine… as well
as some more unwelcome guests.
As the city enjoyed temperatures closing
on 30 degrees and the number of people
swelled, litterbins over-flowed. Around
the bins, and in some private courtyards,
the occasional scream of ‘Szczur!’ was
heard (‘Szczur’ is Polish for rat).
The rodents made the most of the feast
left behind for them, and could be seen
boldly snacking at the remains that had
fallen from some of the bins.
However, the city’s department for
Infrastructure and Public Transport
(ZIKIT), assured the Krakow Post that
there was no serious problem and said the
city was not dirty.
Michał Pyclik, spokesman for ZIKIT,
said: “There might be incidents of littered
bus stops when passengers fill the bins
and our service men will not come in time
to clean, but these are scarce. Bins are
emptied every two days, and the centre
is cleaned every day, including public
transport stops.
“As far as rats are concerned, they are
present in every city, but it is not true that
they are more intensively visible in this
city. Rat poison is not put in green areas,
mainly the Planty, as rats are not observed
there. Rats live mainly in courtyards and
basements. They do come out sometimes,
but extermination should be done in their
habitat… extermination is carried out
regularly in the fast tram tunnel and all
underground passages.”
Mr Pyclik added that the city spends 20
million złoty each year on cleaning.
Krakow’s da Vinci on show again
Poland’s most valuable work of art,
Leonardo da Vinci’s Lady With an Ermine,
is finally on public display again.
The painting has found a temporary
home at Wawel Royal Castle, after
going on a tour of European capitals
and undergoing intensive analysis by art
experts. The ‘Lady,’ as it is known locally,
is owned by the Czartoryski family, one
of Poland’s few remaining ‘aristocratic’
bloodlines. However, the Czartoryski
Museum in Krakow – which once housed
the painting – is undergoing extensive and
time-consuming restoration work. It is not
known how long it will take to complete
the work, and the Lady will stay at Wawel
for the foreseeable future.
The painting was created in the late 15th
century, while da Vinci was working for the
Duke of Milan. The woman in the picture
is said to be Cecilia Gallerani, the Duke’s
mistress. Art experts have ensured it is
displayed in optimal conditions to ensure
its preservation, in a small room at Wawel
with a constant fixed temperature of 18
degrees, and strict controls on lighting and
humidity.
Up to 20 people can view the picture at
a time. Tickets cost 10zł (8zł concessions).
It is advisable to book in advance, as the
popularity of the painting means that
queues are likely.
Krakow Post | June 2012 5
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Krakow United
Krakow United in action (orange strip) at the Hutnik ground (Photo: David McGirr)
Anthony Casey
The arrival of the England, Italy and
Netherlands teams in Krakow for the
European Championships is set to cause
quite a stir – but it’s by no means anything
new for the city.
Representatives from all these nations
and more have been playing regular
matches in Krakow for around ten years,
but they’ve all been playing on the same
side – Krakow United, a club that draws
on the talents of expats and Poles alike for
Sunday league matches.
The club’s Andrew Keogh spoke to the
Krakow Post about their ethos. He said
that the emphasis was very much on the
word ‘United’, and that players, as well
as bridging international borders, also
represented a wide range of ages and
occupations. Krakow United has had
50-year-olds turning out alongside 20somethings, and teachers lining up next
to former professional players, politicians
and businessmen.
Andrew said: “Of course, the games do
get passionate sometimes, but we all love
playing and it’s not meant to be personal.
When we are not playing, we sometimes
organise events among ourselves.”
And that’s not just events between
club members. Andrew added that, when
Krakow United visit Polish village teams
for league matches, they are always
warmly welcomed. It’s not unusual to
find a barbecue, a few beers and lots of
friendly banter awaiting at the host team’s
club house after a hard-fought 90 minutes
on the pitch.
The Sunday league schedule is organised
by members of each club – of which
there are about ten – who set up games,
organise referees and so on. The players
share the costs of officials’ salaries and
other expenses between themselves.
Krakow United’s ‘home ground’ is the
pitches in the shadow of Wawel Castle.
However, they decamp to another ground
in the city when this is not available – and
it’s the same ground on which England
will be training, the Hutnik stadium in
Nowa Huta.
The stadium has come in for a lot of
negative press from the UK tabloids,
which have branded it as a shambles, illequipped to handle the English squad’s
requirements. But, most irritating for
Andrew and those at Krakow United, was
the statement that Hutnik’s ground was
‘not fit for a Sunday league team’.
“I take offence at the Sun newspaper’s
description of the Hutnik stadium,” he
said. “It is one of the best grounds in the
league.”
The Krakow Post visited the stadium
with Krakow United, during a league
game in May, and Andrew’s description
of the facilities – clean, modern, recently
installed, with high-quality playing
surfaces – stood up to inspection.
Whatever the fate of the three teams that
will live and train in Krakow during their
tournament, it’s a sure thing that Krakow
United will still be here next season, their
players keeping fit, meeting new folk
or simply running off a hangover with a
Sunday morning kick-around. They’re
open to new members – of any nationality
– and would be especially keen to hear
from individuals and companies that
might want to sponsor them. If you’d like
to join, give them your money, or simply
go along to a match and cheer them on,
email [email protected].
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Krakow Post | June 2012
10 Tips for Staying Safe and Legal
in Poland this Summer
Jamie Stokes
1. Stamp your bus/tram ticket
In Poland, you can’t just buy a ticket and
get on a bus or tram, you need to validate
that sucker too. This means finding a
validating machine on the bus or tram you
are travelling on. The machine will stamp
it with the date, time and your route.
If you don’t do this, you’re travelling
without a valid ticket and could be fined.
Plainclothes ticket inspectors can pop up
at any time and they don’t care that this
isn’t the way it’s done on the No.7 to
Ealing.
You can buy tickets from machines on
the street (usually next to major bus/tram
stops), from machines on some buses and
trams, or from kiosks. But wherever you
buy your ticket, you must validate it, even
if you just bought it on the bus or tram
you are on.
2. Jaywalking and road safety
Only cross roads at marked pedestrian
crossings, or face a 500zł fine. Wandering
across the street anywhere you like, even
when there is no traffic in sight, is illegal.
The police are bored of foreigners trying
to get out of these fines by claiming
ignorance, so don’t even try it. And by
the way, offering a bribe could get you a
ticket straight to jail.
Some pedestrian crossings have lights
(and a recorded voice) to tell you when
you can cross. Don’t think you can ignore
these at 2am when there’s nothing but
tumbleweeds bowling down the street
Crossings without lights must be treated
with caution. Polish law says cars only
have to stop if there is somebody already
on a crossing, not if they are waiting to
cross. But don’t expect traffic to screech
to a halt the moment you step onto a
crossing. Far better to wait for a big gap in
the traffic than blowing your beer money
on an intensive care unit bed.
Poland has one of the worst road safety
records in Europe – don’t take the risk.
3. Public drinking
It is illegal to drink alcohol in a public
place. It doesn’t matter if you’re sucking
back cans on the corner of the street
or sipping cocktails with your pinky
extended at a riverside picnic – either can
earn you a hefty fine and a possible trip to
the drunk tank (see no. 4).
Obviously, this doesn’t apply to outside
seating provided by licensed premises
(though don’t be surprised if you can’t
buy spirits sitting outside). It does apply
to nipping outside for a ciggie and taking
your beer with you. If the bar doesn’t have
a license for on-the-street tables, you’re
just on the street drinking a beer, and open
to prosecution.
4. Public drunkenness
Polish cops have long, long experience
of public drunkenness and they know
exactly how to deal with it – by locking
your sorry carcass up in a bare cell until
long after you have a very sore head.
So you’ve obeyed all the rules. You’re
stayed on licensed premises and
abandoned any thought of taking that last
bottle out onto the street with you. You’re
just wandering home, maybe singing a
little loudly, maybe making a few harmless
remarks to the ladies, maybe sitting down
for five minutes just to ‘rest your eyes.’
You’ve fine, right? Wrong – if a passing
cop sees you as a public nuisance, they’re
not going to sooth your troubled brow and
call you a cab, they’re going to slap on the
cuffs and drag you away.
5. Drinking and driving
The legal blood-alcohol level for driving
in Poland is ZERO. Poland has an
horrendous problem with drink driving,
and the authorities are keen to do
something about it. Random checks are as
real possibility.
Note that Polish drinking and driving laws
also apply to bicycles. It might sound like
a fun idea to hire some bikes and tool
around town after a few afternoon beers,
but it could prove a lot more expensive
than anticipated.
6. Taxis
Ninety-five percent of taxi drivers in
Krakow are honest, hard-working guys
just trying to make a living. Then there
are the lads who’ll drive you fourteen
times around the block and demand a
gold-plated arm and a leg in return.
Fortunately, spotting the difference is
easy. Genuine, regulated taxis will have
the rate-per-kilometre displayed in an
obvious place (2.80zł–3.40zł is normal)
and an equally obvious meter ticking
away as you roll (usually with a minimum
fee already displayed when you start).
Genuine taxis also look like taxis, with
large taxi-company logos and phone
numbers emblazoned on them. If you’re
not sure that the guy toting for fares is a
genuine taxi driver, he probably isn’t.
7. The honey trap
Two gorgeous ladies stop you on the
street and invite you for a drink. It’s only
natural – you’re a good looking bloke, and
the local girls are bound to be attracted to
your sheen of Western sophistication…
BZZZZZT, wrong answer. It’s a scam.
Follow them to ‘a little bar’ they know, buy
them a couple of cocktails, and you’ll find
yourself facing a bill for several hundred
złoty, backed up by large gentlemen with
shaved heads offering to escort you to a
cash machine.
The biggest problem is that nothing
technically illegal is going on. Somewhere
in that bar, down the back of a sofa in a
cellar guarded by an enraged bulldog,
is a price list that says: “Pink cocktail
– 450zł.” That’s what your new ‘friends’
will order, and that’s what you’re legally
obliged to pay for.
8. Respect
You’ve probably already noticed that
Poland has more gorgeous women per
square mile than Antarctica has snow
balls. Add to that the fact that they all
dress like graduates of the Chanel School
of Looking Sexy on a Catwalk, and you’re
going to be tempted to engage.
There are a few things you should know.
Bantering and acting cheeky may get
you somewhere at home, but it will leave
Polish ladies cold. Poland remains a very
traditional, Catholic country in which
women are highly respected and treated
like ladies. They are not being cold
or uptight, it’s just a different culture.
Respect it, or learn to enjoy your time
in that odorous hostel room with your
mates.
9. Public disorder
If things start kicking off, don’t be tempted
to stick around and watch the fun. The
Polish police are going to come down on
troublemakers like a bag full of anvils,
and you don’t want to be there when it
happens.
Krakow has a long history of hooligan
violence – the local police have seen it
all before and they will ruin your day if
you try it on. These lads’ mums and dads
rioted under Soviet machine guns – a few
chairs thrown by beered-up fans is not
going to intimidate them.
Do not expect softly-softly police tactics.
Poland’s anti-hooligan squads are armed
with:
● Shotguns firing baton rounds that
probably won’t kill you as long as
you’re 30m away,
● A truck-mounted water cannon
affectionately known as the ‘Typhoon,’
● A high-tech sonic canon that can make
you wet yourself on its lowest setting,
● Dogs trained to bite you directly in the
testicles,
● 9mm handguns loaded with live ammo.
…And that’s just the stuff they admit to.
10. Strip clubs and brothels
You’ve probably read somewhere that
prostitution is legal in Poland and
have mentally constructed all kinds of
interesting scenarios. While it is true that
there is no law against an individual selling
sex, brothels are completely illegal. This
doesn’t mean they don’t exist, they do,
but if you step through the door be aware
that you’re walking into a criminal world,
and all that entails.
There are several strip clubs in Krakow,
and these are legal. But keep your wits
about you. The Krakow Post has received
many reports of customers’ credit and
debit cards being scammed for thousands
of pounds. One visitor from the UK claims
to have had 13,000 pounds skimmed from
his account in less than four hours at a
Krakow strip joint.
NE 2
JU 201
/
06
Greetings from Krakow
Dear England…
page 8
RECIPES | REVIEWS | EVENTS | FASHION | SHOPPING | CINEMA | MORE
2
Krakow Post
www.krakowpost.com / www.cracow-life.com
| June 2012
ul. Mikołajska 3 | moaburger.com
Jamie Stokes
There’s a major football tournament going on and
that the ingredients are tip top and the guy in the back
you’re in Europe’s most beautiful city, but the really
room flipping the burgers is a massively experienced
good news is that Krakow is also home to one of the
and highly trained chef.
world’s greatest burger bars – MoaBurger.
Owners Nick and Patrycja Eltringham worked in
The idea of gourmet burgers is relatively new in this
some of the world’s great restaurants before settling
country, where a scorched sausage in a bun is the
in Poland and opening MoaBurger. Nick is from New
height of fast-food sophistication, but if MoaBurger
Zealand (hence the restaurant’s name) – a nation that
can’t re-educate the nation’s taste buds, nothing can.
knows a thing or two about good meat and fresh
I don’t want to give the impression that there’s
ingredients.
anything ‘delicate’ or ‘fancy’ about MoaBurger’s menu –
Moa’s Classic burger weighs in at 17zł, and is more than
it’s not that kind of place. If you just want a burger the
substantial enough to satisfy a mortal appetite. For
size of your face to fill a cavernous hunger, you will not
truly epic hunger pangs, order the Mammoth Burger
be disappointed.
for 28zł and get to work on a double patty along with
The difference between the Moa experience and a
two of every extra you can imagine. The chips, by the
homemade patty slapped in a supermarket bun is
way, are worth a trip on their own.
ul. Węgłowa 4
Jamie Stokes
Get yourself down to the pub and party heart of
owner Konrad Job points out: “It’s Indian street food…
Krakow for a taste of the orient. Kazimierz is heaven
this is how millions of Indians and Pakistanis eat every
if you like grungy bars and a wild and sweaty music
day – on the street, on the go, using the traditional
scene, but it’s also home to the city’s most authentic
bread and their fingers rather than knives, forks and
Indian restaurant.
plates.”
RotiRoti Indian Cafe is a tasty rarity in Poland, a country
You can take a seat in RotiRoti’s colourful dining room,
that has not yet fallen in love with the cuisine of the
or take your food to go. A stuffed roti costs just 12zł
subcontinent. It specialises in utterly authentic Indian
and filling options include chilli pork, chicken palak
street food, and maintains a slick and modern image
and chicken tikka. A vegetarian version will set you
rather than the flock wallpaper and sitar music you
back only 10zł.
might be used to.
Also on the menu are spicy soups, irresistible pakora,
As the name suggests, the roti is the cafe’s signature
samosas and salads ranging in price from 5 to 8zł.
offering. This flat bread is ubiquitous in South Asia and
And to wash it all down, sweet and mango lassi or a
can be stuffed with all manner of delicious treats. As
steaming mug of genuine masala chai (5zł).
ul. Karmelicka 56
Stuart Wadsworth
Fans of Mexican food have had to make do with pretty
dish, and as little as 6zł for a dessert. Starters include
slim pickings in Krakow, until now. Finally, Alebriche
Aztec soup – tomato-based concoction served with
has appeared to fill this burrito-sized gap. It’s the first
fried tortilla and avocado, which is both unusual and
Mexican-owned and run restaurant in town, and their
very tasty. Alternatively, try the plate of freshly baked
aim is to provide authentic, fresh and cheap food – just
nachos with a selection of tasty dips including refried
like it is back home.
beans, guacamole, cheese and spicy minced meat.
The décor is homely and unfussy – folksy art and
Among the highly authentic main courses are
ornaments and a few pictures of Mexican vistas
Chicken mole (a sweet and spicy dish which combines
adorn the walls – and the colour scheme is bright
chili, cocoa powder and more than 30 other
and welcoming. Service comes with a friendly smile,
ingredients) and Filete Relleno – a breaded fish
and the waitresses are happy to talk you through their
fillet stuffed with shrimps, cream cheese, tomato
menu, which is short but includes most of what you
and onion.
would expect of a good Mexican: tortilla, nachos,
Alebriche is an excellent addition to the local dining
quesadillas, enchiladas, and tamales. The hand-made
scene. This kind of authenticity is rare, and with a
tortillas are a revelation.
selection of decent Mexican alcohol, this place could
Prices are low – expect to pay around 20zł for a main
become Krakow’s spice-house of choice.
www.krakowpost.com / www.cracow-life.com
KINO MANIA
Go now!
See it
Krakow Post
Solid
|
3
June 2012
If you must
Avoid
Miliard szczęśliwych ludzi
(One Billion Happy People)
2011
Directed by: Maciej Bochniak
So what happens when you
take a Disco Polo band on a
tour of the Chinese provinces?
Giuseppe Sedia
It’s hard to imagine two more wildly different cultures
Full’s old guard front man Sławomir Świerzyński and
than rural China and Polish Disco Polo – that cheesy,
liberal but extravagant Sinologue Krzysztof Darewicz
foot-tapping music that continues to dominate
are obviously too different to make this a buddy
wedding celebrations across this nation. So what
movie, but both recognise that they need each other.
happens when you take a Disco Polo band on a tour of
Stranded in an unknown milieu, Świerzyński and his
the Chinese provinces? Miliard szczęśliwych ludzi is the
band need a spin-doctor to localize their lyrics and
answer. HBO Poland has displayed flair and courage
to secure introductions to local producers, while
in producing Maciej Bochniak’s documentary, which
Darewicz needs Bayer Full’s engagement on stage to
follows the Chinese odyssey of ensemble Bayer Full.
complete his master plan. Miliard szczęśliwych ludzi
Miliard szczęśliwych ludzi is an encounter between
eventually also sheds some light on the potential for
two worlds, but also between two equally different
harmless lyrics and peppy tunes for the promotion of
characters out of their depth in a foreign land. Bayer
local politicians, regardless of their hue.
Lęk wysokości
(Fear of Falling)
2011
the barrier separating father
and son remains, both
Starring: Marcin Dorociński, Krzysztof Stroiński,
Magdalena Popławska
Directed by: Bartosz Konopka
literally and figuratively,
impassable.
Giuseppe Sedia
The father-and-son relationship has become the
figuratively, impassable. By contrast, in Lęk wysokości,
narrative leitmotif for a new generation of Silesian
the door is almost immediately beaten down by
filmmakers who have produced a number of strident,
Tomek, who becomes entangled in an unhealthy
festival-targeted but psychologically dense works in
relationship with his schizophrenic old man. Tomek
recent years. Bartosz Konopka has joined this trend
eventually begins to talk to himself and his private life
after captivating documentary devotees worldwide
is suddenly on the verge of ruin. Stroiński has hit it big
with Królik po Berlińsku (Rabbit à la Berlin, 2009).
with his chameleonic and self-destructive character,
As with the main character in Marek Lechki’s solid
while
debut Erratum (2011), Konopka’s lead Tomek (Marcin
coolness once again. Thanks to Studio Munka’s task-
Dorociński) decides to put aside his regular life for a
force, Konopka’s debut was distributed with English
while in order to solve conflicts with his estranged
subtitles in some parts of Poland – an unusual practice
father (Krzysztof Stroiński). In Lechki’s film, the barrier
that should certainly be followed in future.
separating father and son remains, both literally and
Jowita
(Jovita)
1967
Directed by: Janusz Morgenstern
Starring: Daniel Olbrychski, Barbara
Kwiatkowska-Lass, Zbigniew Cybulski
Giuseppe Sedia
Despite a theatrical release that included the US,
but somehow more light-hearted Olbrychski.
and a review in The New York Times, Jowita sank
This symbolical changeover takes place in the flat
rapidly into oblivion after its release. The screenplay
of Cybulski’s character, an athletics trainer called
for Janusz Morgenstern’s third feature met mixed
Edward, where he invites Olbrychski’s character,
reviews and suffered from banal comparisons with
runner Marek, to abandon his chimeras and take
the psychological complexity of Stanisław Dygat’s
part in the race without idealism. The sentimental
novel Disneyland (1965). Although the character of
education of Marek in search of Jowita – a female
Marek Arens in the movie has been dismissed as less
figure encountered during a masquerade ball – is set
in-depth than its counterpart in the novel, Daniel
against the background of a well-lit and vaguely fairy
Olbrychski brought him to life with such vigour that
version of Krakow. The main chimera Marek longs for
it won him a status in Polish Cinema comparable to
is interpreted with verve by Roman Polanski’s first
that of Zbigniew Cybulski. With Jowita, the baton
wife Barbara Kwiatkowska-Lass.
passed from Cybulski to the younger, more restless,
Dorociński
demonstrates
an
anguished
4
Krakow Post
www.krakowpost.com / www.cracow-life.com
| June 2012
Exhibitions
Film
Concerts
Theatre, Opera & Dance
Other Events
Krakers
The Art of the Allotment
Photography in Everyday Life
Independent Cinema
A dozen smaller but no less intriguing galleries will
There is something quite primeval about the
What is Lech Walesa doing in a photography textbook?
Earlier this year, Krakow’s Agrafka cinema became the
open their doors to the public this month, to show
acquisition of food and the bringing of life from the
What is the most ‘Polish’ photograph of all time? And
latest in the city to join the ranks of Europa Cinemas
that they are more than a match for the likes of the
soil. So, while hunters hunt and gatherers gather,
just why does this man have horns (you’ll have to
– a mark of the high standards and attention to the
national and city museums when it comes to putting
it’s not surprising that the idea of ‘grow your own’ is
check the exhibition to discover which man…)?
cinematic experience that is consistently high at the
on a show. Those taking part will include Nova, New
still so deeply entrenched in the human psyche.
Shown as part of the Photomonth festival in Krakow,
institution. Featuring new movies, classics, special
Roman, Zderzak, Garaż, Dietla 44, Galeria AS, korporacja
This exhibition is the penultimate stage of a wide-
British critic Charlotte Cotton has directed this show,
events and world/arthouse cinema, Agrafka is a
Art Word, Fundacja Sztuk Wizualnych, Pauza, Ersatz,
ranging project looking at the phenomenon from
at one of the most creative galleries in the city. Don’t
welcome escape from the multiplexes springing up
and Łącznik – and if you get your skates on, you might
an anthropological viewpoint, and is presented in
miss the chance to visit, and take part in workshops
around the city.
just see them all.
collaboration with a blog at www.dzielodzialka.eu. It
and more.
will come to an end later this year.
Where: Various locations
Where: Ethnographic Museum, Pl. Wolnica 1
Where: Bunkier Sztuki, pl. Szczepanski 3a
Where: Agrafka, ul. Krowoderska 8
When: June 14–16
When: Until October 21
When: Until June 17
When: Permanent
Very few adults have the courage to approach the
The magnificent pieces in this exhibition are widely
In the footsteps of Krakow’s
European Identity
world from the point of view of a child of three. This
recognised to be among the most important and
A space the size of a football pitch has been
cinema in Europe. From what we’ve seen, we’re not
project is an ambitious attempt to address those issues
valuable coins and medals anywhere in Poland.
transformed into a subterranean museum beneath
about to argue – Kino pod Baranami certainly packs
that appear consuming and often insurmountable to
They include currency bearing the images of the
the market square. Since medieval times, the ground
a massive punch in the cinematic stakes, offering a
us as children, but which we cast aside over the years.
Jagiellonian dynasty, as well as coins from the times of
level of the plaza has risen about 3 metres, following
real alternative to the multiplexes that are springing
Nevertheless, the theories that we formulate in those
Kazimierz the Great and Bolesław Chrobry. Together,
fires and consecutive rebuilding. However, all kinds
up, and getting return visits from film fans of every
tender years remain with us in some form, and are
these 28 pieces represent a new and often hidden
of treasures have been languishing down there, and
hue. Sure, they’ll screen the box office hits at pod
often recognisable when they are shown to us afresh
perspective on Polish history, usually only available to
on September 24th all was revealed with the grand
Baranami, but you’re just as likely to find a festival of
by young minds and we are forced to look again.
scholars and the National Museum.
opening. The queues of eager punters show that this
Spanish cinema, animation cycles for children, late
set to be a runaway hit in Krakow’s cultural galaxy.
night themed screenings, and much more.
Where: Galeria AS, ul. Sw. Marka 22
Where: Bishop Erazm Ciolek Palace, ul. Kanonicza 17
Where: Underground Museum, Rynek Głowny
Where: Kino pod Baranami, Rynek Główny
When: June 1–17
When: Until July 22
When: Ongoing
When: Permanent
IED
Living Gallery
Rare Coins and Medals
Rene Magritte and photography
Two lands, two skies
Kino pod Baranami
There are rumours that this is the best independent
X-Rated Alice
This is the latest in a cycle of exhibitions from the
Among the surrealists, Magritte was a character who
This exhibition of photographs showcases a selection
Alice in Wonderland: A charming animated children’s
National Museum, to be held at the Gallery of 20th
stood out for his boldness and wit, challenging the
of the work of a Krakow-born photographer who set
tale, a metaphor for drug-induced exploration of
Century Polish Art. It will feature the works of three
world to look again at what it thought it already knew.
out to document the relationship and differences
the psyche, a mathematically perfect model for a
Krakow artists - Leszek Dutka, Walenty Gabrysiak and
The photographs in this exhibition were created
between the two worlds of Poland and Palestine. Ze’ev
novel… or porn? Well, of course this was going to
Bogusław Szwacz. Dutka’s signature is surprise – for the
between 1925 and 1955, and together with movies
(Wilhelm) Aleksandrowicz was born in Krakow in 1905.
be made. In fact, it was made in the US in 1976, and
viewer – which is drawn largely from his own curiosity
they offer an insight into the private life of the artist,
His passion for photography took him around the
is this month’s offering in Mikro’s Exploitation Cycle.
about the world. The exhibition is a rare chance to
his family, and his friends. Presented in collaboration
world, including three visits to Palestine in the 1930s.
It does, ostensibly, have a storyline, and there will be
see previously unpublicised work from Gabrysiak,
with the Polish and Belgian Walloon governments, and
He died in Tel Aviv in 1992 – and it would beanother
opportunity for discussion afterwards.
while Szwacz’s contribution will include his thought-
representatives of the French community of Belgium.
11 years before his life’s work - 15,000 negatives - were
provoking My Life and The Ruins of Warsaw.
Where: MCK, Rynek Główny 25
discovered.
Where: National Museum, Al. 3 Maja 1
When: Until June 10
Where: Galicia Museum, ul. Dajwor 18
Where: Kino Mikro, ul. J. Lea 5
When: Until July 31
When: June 22
When: Until June 10
Sport in Art
Following the success of History in Art, this exhibition
Live Flesh
Crown Treasury and Armoury
Little Kino, Big Ideas
If you are at all prudish, this exhibition of photographs
Recently re-opened after refurbishment, this exhibition
An immediate hit on the movie scene in Krakow, Kika
takes a look at one of the other major influences on our
from the collection of Cezary Pieczynski is probably
is on the site of the former royal treasury. It was here
is a tiny place that packs a big punch. There are only 41
everyday lives. Through photography and installation,
not going to be for you. If, on the other hand, you’re
that the trappings of Poland’s regal family were stored,
seats, but what this place lacks in stature it more than
it attempts to uncover just how sport can arouse such
okay with images of the naked human form, then
housing crowns, scepters, orbs and all the ceremonial
makes up for in prowess; cafe, bar, comfy sofas, state of
bestial passions at times, but has the power to calm
step right in. The exhibition represents an exploration
equipment used to raise princes to kings. Among
the art equipment… and of course a range of the best
and sedate at other times. The central hypothesis
of the form of the flesh, in abstract detail and full-on
these is the most important and symbolic artifact of
arthouse films available, all come together to create a
seems to be that mankind needs to fight, to strive and
observation. Note that, although the exhibition is
all – the Szczerbiec sword used in the coronation of
new and impressive experience in an upcoming area
triumph – and that, as a species, we have found a way
open until the end of June, it will be closed on the 2nd
monarchs. Other artifacts have survived war, pillage
of Krakow that is really beginning to make a name for
of that month, and between the 7th and 13th.
and wanton vandalism – in much the same way as
itself among tourists and locals alike.
to do just that without risk of serious injury.
Poland itself.
Where: Galeria Starmach, ul. Węgierska 5
Where: Wawel Royal Castle
Where: Kino Kika, ul. Krasickiego 18
When: From May 18
When: Until June 30
When: Permanent
When: Ongoing
CULTURAL
PARTNERS
Where: MOCAK, ul. Lipowa 4
www.krakowpost.com / www.cracow-life.com
Metropolis
Krakow Post
Maria Sadowska
German Film Cycle
Days of Mendelssohn
|
June 2012
5
Lucjan Mianowski: Head-head, 1968
Little Lord Fauntleroy
Boeing, Boeing
As an international city, Krakow knows how to cater for
Boris Godunov
Going under the Polish name Mały Lord, this
There will be many chances to see what is becoming
visitors from all over the world – and to its own citizens
Kijów.Centrum is broadcasting a season of classic
production regularly pulled in the crowds last season
an absolute comedy classic at Bagatela this month
who are keen to learn more about a foreign culture.
ballets from Paris, London, New York St Petersburg
– and this month acts as a warm-up to the eagerly-
– with plenty of right-up-to-the-line-and-a-little-bit-
This month at the Goethe Institute there will be a
and Moscow – this month has two showings. The first
awaited Summer Opera Festival. Steven Markwick’s
past-it humour and a very tongue in cheek storyline.
screening of R. Simon’s 1972 classic Sechse kommen
will be Boris Godunov, on June 10, coming live from
show is based on the book by Frances Hodgson
It’s the tale of Max, who has got himself into a bit
durch die Welt, as part of the German Films in Original
New York. Then, on June 24, it will be Raimonda, from
Burnett (author of The Secret Garden), and tells the
of a fix with three brides to be... all of whom are air
Cycle. All of the movies are shown in German, and
Moscow. Both screenings take place at 5pm. Tickets
story of the ‘little boy with a heart of gold’ whose
hostesses. To find out how – or if – he can solve such a
admission is free.
cost 45zł, available from the cinema box office – or visit
influence challenges the perceptions and prejudices
delicate problem, book now, because it’s very hard to
the website at www.kijow.pl for more information.
of the inhabitants of Dorincourt Castle.
get tickets for this show. See the website for a full list
of performance dates.
Where: Goethe Institute, Rynek Główny 20
Where: Kijów.Centrum, al. Krasińskiego 34
Where: Krakow Opera House, ul. Lubicz 48
Where: Teatr Bagatela, ul. Karmelicka 6
When: June 13
When: June 10 and 24, 5pm
When: June 1, 2, 3
When: June 15, 16, 17
Choral Fantasy
Peer Gynt
Regional Products Fair
Film Music
Nobody would pretend that the Norwegian pensmith
The Velveteen Rabbit
(Aksamitny Królik)
Step away from the bars, the kebabs, the myriad
This year’s Summer at the Philharmonic season
Henryk Ibsen is an easy writer to get to grips with.
Teatr Groteska’s end of June show is a delightful
museums and galleries and throngs of tourists for a
presents classic scores from your favourite films – the
Nevertheless, Peer Gynt, his best-known work, is a
interpretation of the children’s story by American
couple of days, and visit this two-day regional product
perfect way to relax and end a summer’s day in the
play that for more than 100 years has captured the
author Margery Williams. With echoes of Pinocchio,
fair in nearby Kryspinów. What’s it all about? Everything
city. The concert brings together the considerable
imaginations of audiences world-wide. It also won
this is the award-winning tale of the quest of one
traditional to Małopolska, from arts and crafts to
talents of the Krakow Philharmonic Orchestra and the
Ibsen critical acclaim for his skillful blending of the
increasingly shabby stuffed rabbit to become ‘real’
produce specific to the region’s towns and cities, and
institution’s choir, in the central concert hall on the
real and the unreal and his careful handling of a script
through the love of its owner. Bitter-sweet, by turns
its historical and archaeological heritage. There will be
edge of the Planty. This event will be conducted by
that stands alone as dialogue without the need for
funny and touching, this thoughtful Polish language
dancing, competitions, displays of archery and other
Janusz Powolny, and tickets cost from 20zł to 60zł.
any physical setting at all. Showing on selected dates
interpretation is sure to stir the hearts of children of
knightly pursuits, and much more to keep the whole
only.
all ages.
family occupied.
Where: Krakow Philharmonic, ul. Zwierzyniecka 1
Where: Słowacki Theatre, pl. Sw. Ducha 1
Where: Teatr Groteska, ul. Skarbowa 2
Where: Kryspinów, near Krakow
When: June 15, 7.30pm
When: June 19 & 20
When: June 21–25
When: May 12–13
6
Krakow Post
| June 2012
Dear England…
www.krakowpost.com / www.cracow-life.com
Advice to the lads for their stay in Poland
According to the tabloids, choosing Krakow as England’s base was the dumbest idea since somebody gave Justin Bieber a microphone. Gentlemen, not that
you need telling this, but the tabloids are talking out of their trouser area. If there’s a better place to live, work and play within a thousand miles, I would have
heard about it and moved there by now.
How to make Poland love you…
At some point, you’re going to find yourself talking to Polish journalists,
dignitaries or barmen. These are the topics to avoid, and the observations
that will earn you the adoration of the nation.
Don’t mention the war
The Polish language
This is a tricky one. We all know Britain declared
war on Germany because they invaded Poland. The bad news – Poland wasn’t massively
impressed by this. From the Polish point of view,
just declaring war was a lot less helpful than
actually turning up and fighting the invaders,
something we didn’t do until several years later.
Don’t be surprised if talk of the Polish-English
alliance earns stony silence or a guffaw.
The Poles are immensely proud of their language
and secretly love the idea that Westerners find
it difficult. Fortunately, you won’t have to fake
this. To the uninitiated, Polish does resemble an
explosion in a Scrabble factory – and the pronunciation demands all kinds of things our tongues
aren’t used to doing. Learn one or two phrases
and Poland will love you forever, especially if you
get the pronunciation spectacularly wrong.
Know something, anything, about Polish history
Poles get immensely frustrated that the only things people know about their country is that Communism and the Holocaust happened here.
There are a thousand years of other events that the world seems to have forgotten about. Proud highlights include:
Europe’s first democratic (kind of ) constitution (1791)
Polish astronomer Nicolaus Copernicus figured out that the Earth goes around the Sun and not the
other way around (1543)
Polish King Jan III Sobieski lead the largest cavalry charge in history at the Battle of Vienna (1683), halting the advance of the Ottoman Empire into Europe.
The Polish–Lithuanian Commonwealth (1569–1795) was one of the richest and most powerful states in
the world at the time.
Polish freedom fighter Tadeusz Kościuszko (1746–1817) was a hero of the American War of Independence and then returned to Poland to lead an uprising against Prussian and Russian occupiers. That
huge artificial mound overlooking the city (Kopiec Kościuszki) is a monument to him.
A night out…
We know you’re here to train, not to party, but if you don’t spend at least one evening on the town, you’ll be missing the greatest drinking experience since
Ug the Caveman discovered that 3-month-old grape juice tastes surprisingly good.
But how to manage a pint or two away from the cameras? The good news is there are around 500 bars in this town, and most of them are invisible to
outsiders. Media types have been pestering us for months for tips on the best bars in town, and here is what we told them:
Antycafe
Nic Nowego
House of Beer
Baroque
ul. Sławkowska 12
www.antycafe.pl
ul. Św. Krzyża 15
www.nicnowego.com
A stalwart of expat evenings out for years now,
Nic Nowego is an Irish bar with a difference.
Owner Tom has ditched the shamrocks,
shillelaghs and green beer and kept only
what is great about the Irish pub experience –
impressively efficient and friendly staff (a rarity in
this city), a bright and chatty atmosphere, and, of
course, the best breakfast in Poland.
ul. Św. Tomasza 35
www.houseofbeerkrakow.com
ul. Św. Jana 16
www.baroque.com.pl
Literally across the street from Nic Nowego,
the House of Beer does exactly what it
says on the tin. The entire wall behind the
bar is lined with bottles of obscure Central
European brews, and there are always a
handful of local specialities on tap too.
Tuck your shirts in for this one gents – Baroque is
the place to take the ladies, or to find the kind of
ladies who like sipping cocktails in slinky dresses.
There are several rooms and bars to explore,
each one more glamorous than the last. Head
downstairs to find the dance floor.
A 30-metre long, cornucopia of hidden
nooks and shadowy corners just metres
from the Market Square. Grungy and
cool, but in a sophisticated way,
Antycafe is one of the city’s hottest new
watering holes.
Of course, now you know where these places are, so do the paps and the crowds. For the real, off-the-radar list, drop me an email.
www.krakowpost.com / www.cracow-life.com
Krakow Post
|
June 2012
7
Good, wholesome fun…
We keep hearing that the reason you guys are here rather than in a fenced compound somewhere in a Ukrainian forest is so that you can enjoy
some distractions away from the pitch. But what exactly is there to do in Krakow, apart from the obvious tourist sites?
Go-karting
Photography
Classic cars
Classic planes
If you’ve ever dreamed of hurtling around the
car park of an abandoned Communist-era hotel
in a 200cc GoKart, now’s your chance. Krakow’s
Motodrom Hala Kartingowa (www.gokarty.pl)
can put you on the right track. Legend has it that
Polish F1 driver Robert Kubica honed his skills
here, probably.
For lens-heads who know their Lomos from
their Leicas, the Museum of the History of
Photography (www.mhf.krakow.pl) is a snapshot
of heaven on Earth. The display features rare
vintage kit and an archive of images going back
to 1850.
If the idea of more vintage motors than you
can shake a rusty spanner at takes your fancy,
get down to the Museum of Civil Engineering
in Kazimierz (www.mimk.com.pl). Rows of
mint-condition classic Polish cars, trucks and
motorcycles in a setup that feels more like an
indoor car park than a museum await.
Surely the manliest, most hairy-chested museum
in Krakow, the Polish Aviation Museum (www.
muzeumlotnictwa.pl) is stuffed with warbirds
from the dawn of flight to the supersonic age.
Highlights include one of the last Spitfires on
public display and MiG Alley – a line-up of Cold
War fighters ideal for reenacting Top Gun-style
high fives.
Crampons and pitons A different angle
Rock-climbing is a rapidly-growing hobby in
Krakow and several indoor climbing walls are
available for Cracovians and visitors to dangle
from in their spare time. The best known is the
Forteca climbing centre (www.cwf.pl/), which has
1,200 square metres of climbing walls featuring
“chimneys, jams and pillars” whatever that means.
Flip the Nazis a retrospective finger – instead of spending time moping around Auschwitz or the
former Jewish ghetto, drop in to the Jewish Community Centre (www.jcckrakow.org) to experience
the rebirth of a community that has been a part of Krakow for 700 years. As the director of the centre
puts it: “We want to show the world that Poland is place of Jewish life and not of Jewish death.” At the
end of June is the 22nd Jewish Culture Festival – which has already outlived the ‘1000-year Reich’ by
about 4-to-1.
Vocabulary
A few words and phrases to help you discuss
the beautiful game with the locals:
Football – Piłka nożna (pew-ka noz-na
Sick as a parrot
[the ‘z’ is pronounced like the ‘J’ in the French
name Jacques]
We was robbed!
Chory jak papuga (horr-ah yak pap-ooga)
Looks strong on paper - Wygląda dobrze na
Zostaliśmy okradzeni (zo-stal-eesh-mey okradzeni)
papierze (vuh-glonda dob-zeh na pap-ee-air-zeh
[the ‘z’s are pronounced like the ‘J’ in the French
name Jacques]
It’s a game of two halves
It’s a funny old game - To dziwna gra (toh jiv-nah
To gra mająca dwie połowy (toh gra may-on-say
dvee-eh po-wov-eh)
[‘j’ as in ‘James’] gra)
Offside! - Spalony (spa-lon-eh)
…And some well-known Polish football wisdom:
Mecz można wygrać, przegrać lub zremisować.
Dopóki piłka w grze, wszystko jest możliwe.
Piłka jest okrągła, a bramki są dwie.
Tak się gra, jak przeciwnik pozwala.
A match can end in a win, a loss, or a draw.
The ball is round and there are two goals.
Praca trenera jest jak molo - kiedyś się kończy.
Coaching is like a pier – eventually it comes to
an end.
As long as the ball is in play, anything is possible.
You can only play the way the other team lets
you play.
Nasza reprezentacja gra bosko - Bóg jeden wie,
jak zagra.
Our team plays divinely – only God knows how.
8
Krakow Post
www.krakowpost.com / www.cracow-life.com
| June 2012
Lords, Ladies… and Dragons!
Dragons and knights, lords and ladies, princesses and
will be given a carnival makeover, with stalls selling
princes… they will all be in Krakow on June 2 and 3, for
gifts and refreshments. It is possible to purchase tickets
the 12th Grand Dragon Parade.
in the VIP area to see the show, for 15zl each, but most
This festival of the fantastic is organised annually by
the Groteska Theatre, an organisation that regularly
visitors choose to pick a spot on the bridges or the river
bank and watch from there, for free.
wins awards for innovation in performance, visuals
Then, on June 3, there will be a courtly parade along ul.
and puppetry. All of the events are free to enter, and
Grodzka to the Main Square in Krakow – with knights,
regularly attract thousands of visitors.
princesses and more. Judging of the Lord and Lady of
On the first day of the parade, June 2, will be the main
the Manor will take place in the Square at 2pm, while
event. Dragons, some 25 metres long, will parade
there will be prizes for those who have made the best
along the river against a backdrop of fireworks, lasers
model dragons, at 2.30pm.
and music, and the river bank beneath Wawel Castle
For more information, visit Groteska.pl.
Summer Opera Festival
Mozart’s Marriage of Figaro will open the 16th Krakow
Summer Opera Festival, on June 15 at the city opera
Oleś-Blacha, and Tomasz Kuk, accompanied by the
Krakow Opera Orchestra.
As Communism in Poland began to crack and
for a show that is broadcast across Poland and beyond.
crumble, a small group of people staged a festival in
This year, the finale concert will be on July 7, starting at
Krakow, celebrating aspects of Jewish culture. That was
6pm and going on way into the night.
back in 1988, and what was then a fringe event has
But the festival is about much more this. The organising
grown into today’s festival – featuring some 200 events
committee has spent the past year – practically since
and expected to attract many thousands of people, of
the end of the 2011 festival – planning this year’s
all religions, cultures and nations.
extravaganza; and they’ve come up with quite a
To give some idea of the extent and importance of the
programme.
festival, simply compare the rise in attendance. In that
Workshops, seminars, lectures, craft sessions, live
first year, about 100 people came; now, thanks to live
music, dancing, heritage events… there is something
TV broadcasts, parts of the festival are seen by close to
on the programme for all. The events – like the festival
half a million worldwide – on top of the crowds who
itself – have an ethos of respect, tolerance and shared
flock to Krakow to get a live taste of proceedings.
experience, so most will be presented either in several
Even those who are not familiar with the Krakow
languages at once, or in individual versions. This ethos
Festival of Jewish Culture will probably be aware of
extends to access too, and many of the events are free
the massive open–air concert that takes place each
to attend.
year. Ulica Szeroka is turned into a carnival zone for the
duration, as international bands play to massive crowds
For a full programme, ticket information, news and
more, visit the festival website at jewishfestival.pl
Here is a selection of just some of the highlights from
the 2012 programme:
History
The Maccabees in Sport – Old Synagogue, ul. Szeroka 24, June 29, 2pm.
house. The lavish production, which will be repeated
The castle courtyard will also be the backdrop for The
Men and Women in the Traditional Jewish Home – National Museum, Al. 3 Maja 1, July 1, noon.
on June 17, 19 and 21, is directed by Laco Adamik,
Grand Pas ballet gala (June 25), with soloists from the
Shtetl: The Roots of Jewish Villages – Klezmer Hois, ul. Szeroka 6, July 3, 8am.
and conducted by Tomasz Tokarczyk – and will feature
Polish National Ballet, the Kremlin Ballet Theatre, and
Ghetto Tour – Apteka pod Orlem, Pl. Bohaterow Getta 18, July 4, 12.30pm.
New York Met baritone Mariusz Kwiecień in the role of
Krakow’s own Opera Ballet. The third Wawel event
Jewish Politics in Inter-War Poland – JCC, ul. Miodowa 24, July 6, 3pm.
Count Almaviva. This is an opportunity to hear Polish
of the festival will be the Great Choir of the Great
greats Robert Gierlach and Krzysztof Szumański, who
Operas, on June 26. Tadeusz Kozłowski will conduct
Film
will share the role of Figaro.
the orchestra of Krakow Opera, in choir pieces from
Les Illusions Perdues 1941–1942 – Galicia Museum, ul. Dajwor 18, June 30, 11.30am
Mariusz Kwiecień will also feature in the World Opera
Halka, Lohengrin, Carmen and more. The festival runs
Diaspora: Film Lecture – Centre for Jewish Culture, ul. Meiselsa 17, July 2, 4pm
Arias concert, on June 24, at the courtyard of Wawel
from June 15 to July 5, and information is available at
Forty Shades of Grey – JCC, ul. Miodowa 24, July 4, 7pm
Royal Castle. Other artists performing at this concert
opera.krakow.pl.
Finding Kalman – Galicia Museum, ul. Dajwor 18, July 4, noon
His People – Tempel Synagogue, ul. Miodowa 24, July 8, 8pm
will include Ewa Biegas, Wioletta Chodowicz, Katarzyna
Secret Gardens
Music
Sometimes you just want to find a peaceful spot in
the garden walls of monasteries, palaces, and private
Musical Shabbat – Galicia Jewish Museum, ul. Dajwor 18, June 29, 8.30pm
the sunshine and relax… and what better way to do
homes. Green-fingered visitors can also learn tricks
Swinging Ballroom Boat Party – Sobieski Boat, near Wawel, June 30, 8pm
this than by taking part in the 7th Garden Festival in
of the trade, to help them make their own gardens
Hassidic Music – Tempel Synagogue, ul. Miodowa 24, July 4, 10pm
Krakow, from June 1–17?
flourish.
Frank London and Friends – Alchemia, ul. Estery 5, July 5, midnight
Organised by the Botanical Garden of the Jagiellonian
The Botanical Gardens will of course be open for the
University, Malwa Music Club, and the Society of
duration of the festival, but there will also be open days
Gardens of Art, the theme this year will be on the
at the Austrian Consulate in Krakow (ul. Cybulskiego
Crafts & Workshops
importance of gardens in our lives, and ways in which
9), the Jozef Mehoffer Museum (ul. Krupnicza 26),
Jewish Cooking – Alrina boat, ul. Gazowa, July 1, 2.30pm
we can develop them as both habitats and places of
The Malopolska Library (ul. Rajska 1), and many more.
Jewish Paper Cooking – JCC, ul. Miodowa 24, July 2, 10.30am
beauty.
See swietoogrodow.pl for the full programme – and
Yiddish Singing – JCC, ul. Miodowa 24, July 4, 10am
look out for gallery and music events linked to the
Workshops for Children – Popper Synagogue, ul. Szeroka 16, July 4, 10.30am
There will be opportunities to visit gardens that are
normally out of bounds to the public, and step behind
festival.
Tea Dance Party – Plac Wolnica, July 6, 7pm
Yosemite Jewellery – Alrina boat, ul. Gazowa, July 6, 3pm
www.krakowpost.com / www.cracow-life.com
Krakow Post
|
9
June 2012
TOTALLY ENORMOUS EXTINCT DINOSAURS
7
life
01.06
The re-emergence of electronic music as the soundtrack of choice for Polish youth
is no better demonstrated than by the glowing success of Selector, one of Poland’s
biggest summertime festivals, and certainly Krakow’s best source for hearing what’s
hip in the synth-pop world. This year’s focus on super-contemporary electronic
beats has somewhat pushed aside previous editions’ penchant for dancefloorfriendly indie darlings (think Franz Ferdinand) or living legends (like Orbital). Dubstep,
a genre that has exploded into a worldwide chart-topping steamroller, will be well
represented by heavyweights Magnetic Man (Benga, Skream, Artwork) and live
dubstep/dnb band Chase & Status. It’s also rumoured that Totally Enormous Extinct
Dinosaurs has one of the most impressive live acts out there. Plus - don’t miss the
Yellow Stage to hear the cream of Poland’s up and coming DJs.
Cyan Stage
Magenta Stage
18:30 Com Truise (pick!)
20:00 Neon Indian
22:00 Chase & Status (Live)
(pick!)
00:00 Hadouken
17:30 Blossom
19:00 Rebeka (pick!)
21:00 Redinho (pick!)
23:00 Stay+
01:00 Totally Enormous Extinct
Dinosaurs (pick!)
02.06
BURN SELECTOR FESTIVAL
Cyan Stage
Magenta Stage
18:30 Niki & The Dove
20:00 Buraka Som Sistema
(pick!)
22:00 Miike Snow
00:00 Magnetic Man (pick!)
17:30 We Call It A Sound
19:00 Sinusoidal
21:00 The Kdms
23:00 Disclosure (pick!)
01:00 Sub Focus (pick!)
04.06
Photomonth:
Visionary Hours & Lights Dim
Alchemia, Estery 5
tagged: ambient, instrumental, electro-acoustic
M A G N E T I C
M A N /
S E L E C T O R
05.06
06.06
Moving Mountains
Das Metropolis
Rozrywki Trzy, Mikołajska 3
tagged: indie rock, post-rock, post-hardcore
Rozrywki Trzy, Mikołajska 3
tagged: techno, disco, bass, house
New York-based indie rockers Moving Mountains will
deliver your regular fix of rock this month, stopping for
a show at Rozrywki Trzy during their Summer European
Tour. Drawing from indie, post-rock, and classic emo
sounds, nearly everything someone writes about Moving
Mountains includes a comparison to The Appleseed Cast
- which isn’t such a displaced observation, really. Fresh
from releasing their New Light EP and touring America
with Coheed and Cambria, Moving Mountains are at the
top of their game. Don’t miss young Polish powerhouse
trio Setting the Woods on Fire opening the show either!
This month, Das Metropolis will host three local figures
at a party inspired by the atmosphere of the home of
techno - Detroit. Followers of the Krakow club scene are
already familiar with the disco-leaning DJ sets of Eltron
John, host of Radiofonia show Ktoś Cię Kocha and the
producer behind several solid releases on top Polish
labels like Pets and Koh-I-Noor. Relative newcomers
Sentel have already marked their spot as essential
Krakow representatives in the international bass music
scene. Hosts Third Wave Romantics will also spin their
take on the raw Detroit techno sound.
Soul Blow: Kixnare & Good Paul
Pauza, Floriańska 18
tagged: hip-hop, soul, future beats
Ben Caplan
Krakow’s expat music scene has been an active
community for years, and while the stereotypical pub
bands will probably never go away, there are plenty
of people consistently doing their own thing. Hayden
Berry’s Visionary Hours project is an example, with
his spiraling ambient music that can be heard on his
last LP The Road to Basho. Joining Berry on stage for
supporting electronics and instrumentals is Marek
Kaminski, a member of the local post-rock band New
Century Classics and solo artist under the name of Lights
Dim. Arrive early to hear Lights Dim perform a quick 20
minute opening set. Entry 10 PLN.
08.06
Krakow crew Soul Blow, made up of Kixnare and Good
Paul, have been organizing parties under the same
name for a while now, bringing together local and
international talent connecting a huge variety of sounds
with a soulful flavour.
While both use hip-hop as a starting point, each artist
has taken his own organic path in music. RBMA alumni
Good Paul has a strong production history, and recently
released a cassette of material on the Berlin-based
Project: Mooncircle label. Meanwhile, Kixnare has been
riding high on the success of his latest CD Digital Garden.
Entry is free.
Daniel Drumz
Jewish Culture Festival
Alchemia, Estery 5
tagged: international jazz, rock,
29.06 - 08.07
Concerts are a big part of the Jewish Culture Festival,
which takes place in and around Krakow’s Kazimierz
district every year. Tradition meets classical and world
music on a daily basis at venues like Tempel Synagogue
and Cheder Cafe, but it’s Alchemia which is set to host
the most casual musical forays into Jewish culture with its
Midnite Sessions and Alchemia Jam series. Hip-hop, rock,
jazz, and electronic sounds meet with performances and
jam sessions from artists like: Frank London & Friends,
Dirty Honkers, Rykarda Parasol, and Pitom Duo. For full
details check out the festival’s site at www.jewishfestival.
pl
Disclosure/ Selector
More...
01.06 / Julia Marcell at Pauza
01.06 / Radiofonia 3rd Birthday Picnic on Gołębia
05.06 / Lamb of God at Studio
09.06 / Eltron John & Motyl at Pauza
15.06 / Skinny Patrini at Pauza
15.06 / DJ Land 4 at various locations
26.06 / The Ugly World Tour 2012 at Studio
10
Krakow Post
www.krakowpost.com / www.cracow-life.com
| June 2012
attempt to attract footie fans through its doors –
though this may prove a disadvantage during an
international tournament. Despite its unique moniker,
in association with:
Galeria Kazimierz
the EFC is typical of the kind of subterranean bars you
will find all over the city. There are cavernous rooms,
classic Polish beers on tap, a projection screen and – its
stand-out feature – a huge beer garden out back.
Albo Tak (Mały Rynek 4) seems to go out of its way
to remain obscure. This is a shame, because it’s one of
the best old-style, spit-and-sawdust drinking dens in
Krakow. There is a sign outside, but you’d be forgiven
Going to the pub is a fairly simple challenge, which
for missing it, and walking through the door can be a
may go some way to explaining why it’s so popular.
confusing experience because it takes you directly into
All you really have to do is turn up at roughly the
a book shop rather than the bar you might have been
same time as other people you know and drink
expecting. Simply turn left and head up the stairs to
beer. Embellishments are possible of course, such as
regain a grip on reality.
conversation and drinking things other than beer, but
nobody can really accuse you of having failed to spend
Nic Nowego (ul. Św. Krzyża 15) is a long-established
an evening in a bar if you simply sit there and get most
watering hole on expat migration trails through
of your drinks into your mouth.
Krakow. It’s a near-perfect blend of Western standards
When compared to the classic, no-frills pub experience,
of service and amenities, the hospitable feel of an Irish
visiting a sports bar begins to look like rocket science.
bar (which it is), and a big dollop of Polishness. It’s one
Suddenly there are all kinds of additional factors to take
of the few places treated as a local by both Poles and
into account – you have to be there at a specific time,
expats, and it has a massive TV projection screen.
ensure that nobody tips you off to the result, find a
place to sit that allows you to see a screen and, most
The Irish Mbassy (ul. Stolarska 3) is the fully-pimped
challenging of all, find a decent sports bar in the first
ride of Krakow sports bars. There are 10 plasma screens
place. Relax – generous to a fault as always, the Krakow
on three floors (one floor for smokers), international and
Post’s Bar of the Month team has done the heavy
local beers, a menu featuring curries, nachos and fish
lifting by rating every sports bar we could find and
and chips and, almost uniquely in this city, a reasonable
winnowing out these top tips.
number of toilets. If you want all the comforts of home,
With the sun high up in the sky and temperatures soaring the banks of the Vistula are teeming and are playing
host to what can only be described as a ‘bikini invasion’. Suddenly the sight of girls stretching out in skimpy two
pieces by Wawel Castle is proving to be a bigger tourist attraction than the castle itself!
It is cool, courageous and even kind of kooky to sport your bikini in the heart of the city centre one thing you
need above all else is bags of confidence. But what is the bikini all about?
Well, if it wasn’t for a bikini the careers of Raquel Welch (‘“One Million Years B.C”) and Ursula Andress (“Dr No”)
could have taken a different path, as both of them claim that the skimpy outfits played a major role in their route
to popularity and stardom. In fact, Andress emerging from the waves in “DR NO” gained status as one of the most
memorable film moments in the history of cinema and quickly came to symbolise the power of feminity and the
sexual revolution.
The infamous white bikini later sold at auction for a whooping $61,000. It was’t the skimpy piece of white fabric
that commanded the price, but its cultural significance as the symbol of sixties liberalization.
Considering that the Bikini, which was introduced to the mass market in 1946, was named after the pacific island
of Bikini Atolle where the Americans tested atomic bombs, we can confidently declare the bikini effect by Wawel
as ‘bombastic’. Just go and check it out yourself...
The 90’s saw a decline in a bikini sales mainly due
to the threat of skin camcer.
this is the place to go. On the other hand, if what you
The blatantly named English Football Club (ul.
Mikołajska 5) wins the award for the most transparent
wanted were all the comforts of home, why come to
Krakow?
The world’s most expensive bikini was made out of
150carats (30g) diamonds & cost a sexy £20 million
Even though the bikini is the most popular beachwear in the world, a
recent survey discovered that 85% of bikinis actually never get wet.
The first ”bikinis” were discovered by archeologists
and date back as early as 1600B.C
Krakow Post | June 2012 7
Photo of the Month
www.krakowpost.com
Podgorski – running below Andrez Getter’s leaf bridge Jake Williams
8
www.krakowpost.com
Krakow Post | June 2012
ASTRO SELTZER
GEMINI (May 21 - Jun 20)
Caught up in a whirl of social activity, you are on something of a natural high. Sudden changes are in the air: other people’s agendas
are about to have an incredible impact on your life. And, while you like life to be a bit on the frenzied side, you must keep your eye on
what you want.
CANCER (Jun 21 - Jul 22)
LIBRA (Sep 23-Oct 22)
CAPRICORN (DEC 21 - JAN 19)
ARIES (Mar 20 - Apr 19)
This month, your intuition and
You are no slouch in the passing
You know, instinctively, when
You cannot lie to yourself and
emotional radar will be on top
judgement department, but you are
things are about to go pear-
pretend that all is well with your
form. Otherwise reliable people
so diplomatic, people never notice
shaped – it’s a gift. This month,
world.
have been acting in the most
your disapproval. This month, you
you will be doing some serious
visceral reactions to what people
Currently
experiencing
peculiar fashion. This madness
will be uncharacteristically direct
analysing as you work towards
say, you are finding even the
is temporary, but you will have a clearer idea,
about expressing frustration with people who are
deciding whether to stay on board or jump ship
most basic communication extremely challenging.
down the road, of who can really be trusted. A
reluctant to think for themselves. You could find
when it comes to an important aspect of your life.
Although you are no shrinking violet, a local scandal
major business deal promises to be significantly
yourself attracted to a life in politics or to community
Too bad that others will probably refuse to listen to
is about to shock you to the core – the vicar and the
successful.
work.
your words of wisdom.
milkmaid sort of thing.
AQUARIUS (JAN 20 - FEB 18)
TAURUS (Apr 20 - May 20)
LEO (Jul 23 - Aug 22)
SCORPIO (Oct 23-Nov 21)
This month, a close friend will
This month, the spotlight is on
You can be just as pragmatic
Keep a closer eye on finances!
make a surprise announcement
financial stability and planning for
as everyone else, but your brain
You
that leaves you reeling. You
the future. You have to admit you
grows weary when things are too
something others have been
will subsequently start thinking
are rather wonderful at making
practical and result-oriented. This
getting free of charge. Completely
about
what
money work for you. Lately you
month, you must kick the status
focused on the job at hand, you
you could do to exploit your wonderful well of
have been surprisingly optimistic, cheerful and easy
quo where it hurts and shake things up a bit. Reveal
have probably been neglecting your own needs,
creativity. You have been dealing with facts,
to get along with. After a lot of introspection, you
your innately contrary nature by taking up some
including your health. The good news is that you
figures and mundane junk for too long.
have discovered that you are not half bad after all.
outlandish hobby – doorknob collecting, perhaps.
are feeling more self-confident – and attractive.
VIRGO (Aug 23 - Sep 22)
SAGITTARIUS (Nov 22 - Dec 20)
PISCES (FEB 19 - MAR 19)
your
life
and
This month, you will be forced
Relationships
are
undergoing
People around you have been
to choose between doing what
major changes. For better or
slacking of a bit, leaving you with
is expected and doing what you
worse, you will be finally getting
the lion’s share of work. If there
want – not an easy challenge.
the lowdown on what people think
is any possibility of travel, grab
Your professional life is about to
of you. Despite being a strange
it. Something new, weird and
shift in a dramatic, life-changing manner. You’re a
bundle of contradictions, you have other people’s
wonderful awaits you in foreign climes. By the way,
wiz at organisation, management and marketing,
interests at heart. If you are bored, throw some
take a look around the house: you could well find
so you really should be out in the world of business
words together, or toss some paint on the wall: you
some long-forgotten money in the most unlikely
making a major splash.
could come up with something oddly appealing.
place.
Tales from the chalkface
What a Performance!
Whatever the season, somewhere there’s
a teacher and her students expending
huge amounts of energy and enthusiasm
on a school play or concert. Concerts are
not just for Christmas, and the climax
of the school year usually involves a
performance of some kind. It’s a fun
event – at least it’s to be hoped so, even if
most of the fun comes from looking back
on a job well done (or at least, done).
For students older than seven or eight, it
will probably be something that stays with
them forever, though at the time they’ll
be too busy worrying about learning lines
or hoping their costumes suit them to
know that. I certainly remember my own
efforts, mostly with fondness and not too
much embarrassment, but I belong to
the fortunate generation that never had
its acting or singing recorded so that it
could be played back to them in years
to come, usually on occasions when it’s
least welcome. Not so today – now when
there’s a school concert, there’ll be a
camera running. I look at the photos of
myself in long dress and wig playing the
part of some old lady (type casting exists
everywhere) and thank my lucky stars the
picture isn’t moving.
have
been
paying
for
Written by Kerwin McLeister
The Krakow Post’s astrology
column is for entertainment
purposes only, and the Post is
not responsible for any consequences incurred as a result of
this column.
Modern
University
with rich
tradition
Chris Riley
The amount of angst that goes into an
event that will always be ‘alright on the
night’ seems inversely proportional to
the actual quality of the performance.
Someone will inevitably drop out. This
is usually a main part, and the reason
can be anything from illness to tantrums
but, whatever it is, a full-blown crisis
will ensue and a replacement eventually
found.
Being in a play is the best language
practice anyone could ever have, because
what’s coming out of your mouth is only
one of half a dozen things an actor has
to think of – taking the pressure off the
business of speaking. Even better is the
sense of working together with lots of
others towards a common goal, though it
can be difficult to remember these lofty
aims when the leading lady is insisting
she can’t wear blue, even though it’s the
only costume available in her size, the
leading man has measles, and at least
three of the chorus are always late or,
better yet, appear to have forgotten that
rehearsals exist.
Nothing else in the world exists in the
week before a performance, and such
things as lessons or examinations become
mere obstructions to the all-consuming
event. Woe betide anyone who might
object to rehearsals at any time of day
(or night). Other things matter? What
nonsense!
A sense of humour and a sense of
proportion are definitely needed if
everyone, including the audience, is to
enjoy the show. It really does help to
smile at the disasters and, above all, to
remember that mistakes are opportunities
for learning rather than travesties of
artistic expression. It is, after all, a school
concert not a Broadway show.
Marvellous, darlings, marvellous!
e
Full time and part tim r ’s studies
te
Bachelor ’s and Mas
s,
ie
ud
st
te
Postgradua
al studies
or
ct
Do
including MBA
Majors dElivErEd in English:
BSc, Msc International Business
BSc Corporate Finance and Accounting
BSc Applied Informatics
Doctoral Studies in Economics
Finance and Management
CUE comprises four faculties
offering 17 majors :
 Faculty of Economics and International Relations
 Faculty of Finance
 Faculty of Commodity Science
 Faculty of Management
www.uek.krakow.pl
Krakow Post | June 2012 9
www.krakowpost.com
CRYPTIC CROSSWORD
1
2
3
Set by KC
3
7
4
5
6
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
22
27
23
24
25
28
21
ACROSS
1, 4 PL – Go on, Poland! (2, 4, 6)
4 See 1ac
7 Angry ape is brown (5)
11 Lag behind student on volume (6)
12 State of 3d? (6)
13 Musical about kiss? (4)
15 PL (5) – See 28ac
18 Snack said to be eight times 18 (4)
19 Aim to give her a ring (4)
20 About part of a net? (4)
22 Oddly, chump gets trophy (3)
24 Extinct bird in burger from Mikołajska outlet
at first (3)
25 But about the bath… (3)
27 Stretch back and forth (3)
28 On the spot fine? (7)
29 Eg 4d initially 23d (1,1,1)
30 PL (4, 4, 5) – 13 ac for Poland?
26
29
DOWN
1 Haul aboard, Smaug first – they’re monsters
(7)
2 Dance around on, eg, Krakow riverbank
attraction (7)
3 We are American first (1,1)
4 Dad got ap confused (2)
5 PL (7) – See 6d
6 British driver is illegally placed? (7)
8 PL (6) – See 22ac
9, 10d Imperial dance game (8)
10 See 9d
14 PL (3) – See 19ac
16 Raised after smoke (5)
17 See 21ac
18 Just a little, but enough to control, eg,
Pegasus? (3)
19 Stare fixedly at regal turn (5)
21, 17d PL (5,5) – See 9d, 10d
22 Beliefs of company swallowing debt (5)
23 4d burst, eg 2d (3)
25 Play with poodle? (3)
26 Cilla leads and Jack follows when in credit
(5)
30
CONFUSED?
SOLUTIONS
ACROSS
1 Do Boju 4 Polsko 7 Sepia 11 Gallon 12 Dallas 13 Song 15 Karny 18 Byte 19 Goal 20 Trap 22 Cup 24
Moa 25 Tub 27 Eke 28 Penalty 29 AKA 30 Koko Euro Spoko
DOWN
1 Dragons 2 Balloon 3 US 4 Pa 5 Spalony 6 Offside 8 Puchar 9 Foot 10 Ball 14 Gol 16 Alarm 17 Nożna 18
Bit 19 Glare 21 Piłka 22 Credo 23 Pop 25 Toy 26 Black
A cryptic crossword is a series of puzzles, which must be solved before you can complete the grid. For
example, the clue for 7a is ‘Angry ape is brown’. The word ‘angry’ hints at an anagram, so mix the letters
of ‘ape is’ to arrive at the solution – ‘sepia’
Special instructions
The answers to clues marked ‘PL’ are Polish words – which correspond to the English answers to the
clues indicated. The exceptions are 1,4, and 30ac, which are partially clued in their own right. Your goal is
to find the theme that links the Polish words.
WRITTEN IN STONE
Russian forces, but there was still the question of
ammunition. Or rather, the lack of it. What the city
needed was a miracle.
16TH
Divine intervention: As he passed a statue of the
Madonna, Oracewicz rubbed one of his buttons on
it and uttered a prayer, asking the Holy Mother to
K r a k o w
O p e r a
S u m m e r Fe s t i v a l
15.06. – 5.07. 2012
intervene. With no bullets to hand, he was forced to
use the button as a bullet. From the city wall he fired
into the mass of Russian troops – and hit Panin in
story, and the reason for the plaque. In truth,
In Brief: It’s hero time. A plaque at the Barbican
records how one man saved Krakow with a button
from his coat.
What’s it for? On June 22, 1768, the Russians
were quite literally at the gate. Under the command
of General Ivan Panin, the invading army had
reached Krakow and was set to break through the
Florian Gate. To make matters worse, ammunition
was running out… the city looked destined to fall.
Cometh the Hour: Anyone who knows anything
about Polish history will know that this is not a
country to lie down and die. On this occasion, one
man in particular was to seize the glory. His name
was Marcin Oracewicz, who moved to Krakow
from Spisz, and became a citizen in 1745. When
the Russians attacked, Oracewicz was heading
towards the Barbican, determined to help defend
his adopted home.
there is some dispute over whether Panin was
commanding the Russian troops, or whether it was
actually Oracewicz’s button bullet that killed him.
Nevertheless, there is a plaque at the Barbican
marking the moment and, when it comes to heroes,
why let the facts get in the way of a good story?
Bookend biography: Marcin Oracewicz, Born, c.
1720, Spisz. Died c. 1789, Krakow.
25 June
24 June
A million to one chance: The problem faced by
Oracewicz, and for his comrades in arms, was that
Krakow’s defences were already creaking. Not only
were the Cracovians heavily outnumbered by the
on Wawel Hill
Great Choir of Great Operas *
The stuff of legends: That, in any case, is the
Opera Evenings
Grand Pas...! Ballet Gala *
time being, at least.
World Opera Arias * featuring MARIUSZ KWIECIEŃ (MET)
the eye, killing him and thus saving Krakow, for the
w w w. o p e r a . k r a ko w. p l
26 June
*In case of adverse weather conditions,
the event will be relocated
to the Main Stage of the Krakow Opera.
10
www.krakowpost.com
Krakow Post | June 2012
SPORT
SPORT IN BRIEF
Euros a major challenge for Poland
Tenth career title for Agnieszka
Radwańska
Agnieszka Radwańska won the Brussels
Open by defeating Romania’s Simona
Halep in the final (7–5, 6–0) for her 10th
singles title on the WTA Tour, and only
her second on clay. Radwańska had entered the event as the top seed as many
of the world’s other top players opted to
rest before the start of the French Open.
Radwańska swept through her five matches without dropping a set.
Veteran Arkadiusz Głowacki comes
home to Wisła
Veteran defender Arkadiusz Głowacki has
re-joined Wisła Krakow after a two-year
stint with Trabzonspor in Turkey. A former team captain and contributor to six
league championships, Głowacki returns
hoping to bring the club back to prominence after a season in which the White
Star finished 7th in the Ekstraklasa table.
The 33-year old has signed a contract for
the next two seasons.
Cracovia relegated, but retain their
manager
After ending the season at the bottom of
the league table, it is still unclear which
players Cracovia will take into the Polish
Liga 1, though manager Tomasz Kafarski’s job is safe. Despite accruing only
six points in his ten matches at the helm,
Cracovia management has decided to give
the former Lechia manager an opportunity to develop next season’s squad after he
took over for Dariusz Pasieka last March as
an emergency replacement.
No Olympics for women’s volleyball
The Polish women’s volleyball team fell
short of qualifying for this summer’s games
in London after being swept by Turkey in
the final of a ‘last chance’ tournament
in Ankara. The Poles won consecutive
matches against Holland, Russia, Serbia
and Germany before meeting the hosts in
the final. Poland finished in 9th place at
the 2008 Olympics in Beijing. This is the
Turkish team’s debut at the games.
Key Poland players Robert Lewandowski (no. 09) and Jakub Błaszczykowski (no. 16) – Photos: Krzysztof Jakub Porębski
The unknown: that’s really all there
is to fear just days before what is sure
to be a defining moment in Poland’s
sporting history. After six years of frantic
construction and meticulous planning for
Euro 2012, all the goodwill and enthusiasm
of people across the country could unravel
in an instant. Poland’s Group A opponents
– Greece, Russia and the Czech Republic –
are certainly beatable, but no one is really
certain what kind of performance we will
see out of the men in white and red who
will take to the pitch on June 8.
Poland enters the tournament with a
FIFA ranking of 65, by far the worst in
the tournament, but the national team
has made clear strides since 2009 when
they were embarrassed in World Cup
qualifying. Yet that was the last time that
Poland played in any real competitive
matches, so just how this team will
respond to the pressure of co-hosting a
major tournament is a big unknown.
More than in years past, manager
Franciszek Smuda has called on talent
from foreign leagues. On the final 23-man
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powered by
roster, eight are currently under contract
with clubs in the German Bundesliga.
Two-time defending league champions
Borussia Dortmund have contributed
three players to the Polish team: captain
Jakub Błaszczykowski, prolific scorer
Robert Lewandowski and defender Łukasz
Piszczek. All three of them are likely to
make the starting lineup. At the age of 26,
Błaszczykowski is the second youngest
captain in the tournament after France’s
Hugo Lloris. ‘Kuba’ missed the entire
2008 season because of a hamstring injury
sustained days before the tournament, but
now he has the task of holding the Poles
together on the pitch.
The team’s success or failure will depend
heavily on Lewandowski, who will have to
be the offensive catalyst in Poland’s 4-2-31 formation. He emerged as Poland’s main
offensive threat in 2010 while leading
Lech Poznań to the Ekstraklasa title. Since
his move to Dortmund, Lewandowski has
only continued to improve, as evidenced
by an emphatic three-goal performance
against Bayern Munich in the German
Cup final, which Borussia won 5–2.
Arsenal’s Wojciech Szczęsny is the clear
choice in goal, and at 22 he is the youngest
starting keeper in the tournament.
Questions remain about the backup spot
where Jagiellonia Białystok’s Grzegorz
Sandomierski will replace Łukasz
Fabiański due to a shoulder injury suffered
during training that will keep him out for
tournament entirely.
The only Krakow-born player on the
squad is defender Marcin Wasilewski,
who began his career in the Hutnik
youth system and now plays for Belgian
champions Anderlecht. At 31, he is the
elder statesman of the Polish side. Though
no current players from any of Krakow’s
clubs are represented in the national
team, forward Paweł Brożek, midfielder
Dariusz Dudka and the aforementioned
Błaszczykowski all spent time with Wisła
earlier in their careers.
After Smuda had selected the provisional
squad, the team began training in Austria
and played friendlies against Latvia and
Slovakia in Klagenfurt, which both ended
1–0 to Poland’s Biało-Czerwoni. The Poles
played sloppily against Latvia, but Smuda
called on several inexperienced players
while resting the star Borussia trio. Taking
advantage of the opportunity, Artur
Sobiech scored a goal in just his fourth
international appearance. French-born
defender Damien Perquis, who received
his Polish passport only last September,
also notched up his first international
goal in the 30th minute against Slovakia.
After a first half of effective attacking play
featuring most of Poland’s regulars, Smuda
experimented with a slew of substitutions
in the second half.
The team next faces lightweight Andorra
for a final tune-up in Warsaw ahead of Euro
2012’s opening match between Poland
and Greece on June 8. The visitors will be
hungry for redemption. After becoming
shock winners of Euro 2004, Greece fell
back to earth, finishing last of the 16 teams
in the most recent championship.
On June 12, Poland will remain in
Warsaw to take on Russia, who are
slight favourites in the group despite key
injuries in their defence, even according
to manager Smuda: “I think all four teams
(in the group) have a chance, but Russia
are the favourites.”
Poland concludes group play against the
Czech Republic on June 16 in Wrocław.
Whether or not the Polish team sees any
matches beyond that, we will know soon
enough.
James C Muus
Krakow Post | June 2012 11
www.krakowpost.com
With the Accent School of Polish
kibicować verb (ja kibicuję, ty kibicujesz)
wianki noun, plural
Komu kibicujesz w czasie Euro 2012?
Who are you cheering for during Euro 2012?
W czerwcu Kraków zaprasza na “Wianki”!
In June Kraków invites everyone to ‘Wianki’ – the Festival of Wreaths.
wyremontowany adj.
słonecznie adv.
Wiele obiektów zostało wyremontowanych na Euro 2012.
Many facilities have been renovated for Euro 2012.
Kiedy jest słonecznie, turyści chętniej zwiedzają miasto.
When it is sunny, tourists are more willing to go sightseeing in the city.
to cheer for someone
wreaths, garlands; the Midsummer festival
renovated
sunny
JEST KOLOROWO!
© by M. Gałęziowska & Accent School of Polish
A little bit of Polish
SK
NIEBIE
cza
rw
c ze
r ny
o ny
I
bia
fio
w
l e to
pom
ZIELO
zow
w
óżo
y
Jaki kolor ma...
ty
żó ł
y
r
ńc
ara
ły
A TY?
brą
zow
y
sza
- banan?
ry
- niebo?
y
- mleko?
NY
żółty kwiat (m) / żółta sukienka (ż) / żółte słońce (n)
For more Polish visit www.polishforforeigners.com! New Polish courses starting in June at Accent School of Polish!
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