Merrimack Valley Magazine

As featured in:
good
May / June 2010
eats
by KathleenPierce
photos by KevinHarkins
Lu na Rossa
“
It’s not always about location.
Amid the office parks of Andover and Tewksbury, Luna Rossa
could hardly have a lower profile. Located in a strip mall and
windowless, with a sign that’s easy to miss, this red-sauce Italian
restaurant feels like an afterthought.
That is, until you go inside.
On a recent Saturday night, young couples and multigenerational
families lingered over linguini. Tony Bennett crooned on the stereo.
Candles danced on the tables. The owner greeted us, and just like
that we were in the middle of a Billy Joel song … “A bottle of red,
a bottle of white, whatever kind of mood you’re in tonight.”
Luna Rossa has thrived for 12 years by remembering that
warmth, affordability and zero pretension is always in style.
Although the kitchen was to close in a half hour, our waitress
let us contemplate the wine list and didn’t rush through the
evening’s specials — sausage lentil zuppa, vegetable ravioli and
grilled swordfish.
Across the way,
a
playful
mural of
We are Italian . W e l i k e
Italian peasants eating
to feed peop l e .
spaghetti with their
fingers amused me.
-DavidDiCenso,owner,LunaRossa
“We are just trying to
have some fun,” said owner David DiCenso, who grew up in an
prototypical Italian family of chefs.
His grandfather, Davio DiCenso is Back Bay restaurant
royalty. He was the head chef at Davio’s on Newbury Street, which
David’s godfather, Dominic DiCenso, opened in the 1970s. David’s
brother, Damiano, cooks at Luna Rossa, and his father, Angelo
DiCenso, runs Donatello’s in Saugus, where his uncle, Nino, is the
head chef. Confused?
Remember this: The DiCenso name is synonymous with value.
Few entrees creep past $20 at Luna Rossa. “We are Italian. We
like to feed people,” David said.
That doesn’t mean Luna Rossa is just a spaghetti and meatball
joint. There are standbys, such as fried calamari and penne alla
vodka, homemade gnocchi and rigatoni, and enough vegetarian
options to please all.
To start, we ordered “Eggplant Involtini” — thinly sliced,
pan-fried eggplant layered with prosciutto, fresh ricotta cheese and
”
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Top: Co-Owner David DiCenso holding antipasto and Chef Diamiano DiCenso holding Margherita
Pizza. Above: Chicken Braciolettini - chicken stuffed with spinach and ricotta cheese in a tomato,
basic cream sauce. Opposite page: Luna Rossa features a playful mural of Italian peasants eating
along the far wall.
roasted peppers, slathered in a tangy plum tomato basil sauce. It
was cheesy, delightful fun. The house chianti ( Piccini ) was a perfect
pairing. Its acidic arc cut through the heft of this dish. At $5,
that’s all one can ask. Adventurous martini drinkers should try the
“Amalfi Coast,” which resembles the azure waters of that picturepostcard strip.
Straying from Abruzzo, whence the DiCenso’s hail, I ordered
“Filet of Sole Francesé” and was glad I did. Dipped in egg batter
and pan fried in a light lemon caper white-wine sauce, the classic
Mediterranean dish was on the mark. I wish I could say the same for
merrimack valley magazine
As featured in:
May / June 2009
Winner of NECN’s TV Diner Platinum Plate Award
the accompanying lemon asparagus risotto.
Rice studded with asparagus with lemon
juice does not a risotto make. Where was
the creamy texture? This wouldn’t fly in
Rome, but the delicate fish made up for it.
My tablemate’s “Chicken Braciolettini”
— chicken stuffed with spinach and ricotta
cheese in a tomato basil cream sauce —
was billed as a house signature. So it
surprised us when this attractive entree was
overcooked. Despite the chicken’s lack of
tenderness, it was an adequate foil for the
treats inside. And oddly, this tasted better
the next day as a leftover.
Hanover Street Chophouse – Setting the standards for fine dining!
Featuring prime steaks, fresh seafood and an award-winning wine list.
Enjoy first-class dining of the “big city” right here in
downtown Manchester, New Hampshire!
Join us soon for an experience you won’t forget!
149 Hanover Street – Manchester, NH 03101 – 603.644.2467(CHOP)
www.hanoverstreetchophouse.com
Nestled in the Woods of Methuen
is Your Escape from the Ordinary.
We didn’t fall for the tray of chocolate
tortes and cheesecake for dessert, and we
waived off cappuccino, but were pleased to
find authentic Italian coffee drinks were
available.
It’s easy to dismiss Luna Rossa as a
bargain hunter’s domain, but you’re selling
it short. Order a bottle of red, a bottle
of white and make your own Billy Joel
moment. Or better yet, write a new verse.
l mvm
Deliciously Prepared Meals in a
Country Inn Setting.
• Private Functions:
Up to 70 people indoors,
or up to 200 people outdoors.
• Open Wed - Sat: 4:30pm - 9:30pm
• Tavern ‘till Closing.
• Reservations for 6 or more.
Saturday Sweetheart Package:
Dinner for 2 (any entrée off menu),
bottle of champagne, roses for your
sweetheart, dessert & coffee:
All for ONLY $99!
Luna Rossa is located at
174 Dascomb Road in Tewksbur y.
The restaurant ser ves lunch Monday
through Saturday, star ting at 11:30 a.m.
Dinner is ser ved Sunday, Monday and
Tuesday until 8:30 p.m., Wednesday
and Thursday until 9 p.m., and Friday
and Saturday until 9:30 p.m.
(978) 851 - 9282.
www.LunaRossa-Restaurant.com.
merrimack valley magazine
Michael Condon’s
Dinner for 2 Special:
Wednesday & Thursday nights
9 entrée choices plus soup or
salad, coffee, and dessert:
All for ONLY $19.99!
80 Myrtle Street, Methuen • 978-682-7012 • www.sweetheartinn.com
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