NRR September 2013 - Northern Rockies Rider
Transcription
NRR September 2013 - Northern Rockies Rider
FREE Serving Washington, Idaho, Montana, Wyoming, So. Dakota, B. C. and Alberta Take one home! “Your Northern Rocky Mountain Riding Authority” Northern Rockies Rider Volume 2, Number 6 • September 2013 • A Continental Communications Publication • [email protected] • 406-498-3250 Okanagon, Kettle River Valleys host roads that exceed our riding criteria By Cole Boehler Riding an intimately familiar road close to home is like having Wednesday night beers with your regular cronies. Heading out to run a more distant segment that you’ve neglected for four or five years is akin to becoming reacquainted with an old friend – the fine memories come flooding back. Running worthy routes and loops you’ve never been on before is like meeting new folks with whom you immediately hit it off; you greatly enjoy their company and eagerly anticipate your next rendezvous. We are delighted to know that we haven’t ridden it all in the Northern Rockies Between Oroville and Chesaw, nothing but remote curves, good pavement and no traffic, all with the right tool: yet; that there are new-to-us Ducati Multistrada “S” Touring. roads to meet and become acquainted with, roads that will be added to our let’s-doit-again-real-soon list. Spokane is under five hours from our home if pushed straight through on I-90 – just 315 miles. On a bike, given our propensity for backroads and our usual motorcycle pace, it’s most of a day. That’s comforting to know since there is so much fine riding to be had surrounding that regional “metropolis.” We rode as far as St. Regis, Mont., Thursday night and stopped at the Little River Motel (thanks for the good room and great company, Linda!), then pushed into Spokane the next morning to arrive at Westside Motorsports by See River Valleys, Page 2 Ducati Multistrada ‘S’ Touring: Ideal long weekend backroad ripper? By Cole Boehler Stopped for road construction north of Reardon, we found the nearly ripe grain fields to make for a fine photo backdrop. Dealership personnel had wisely covered easy-to-scratch surfaces with protective plastic. I remembered well Scott Schmidtman’s words from last January: “We’ll have a Ducati demo bike. Come over and ride it.” He uttered that memorable line during an interview we conducted prior to publishing a feature profile on the motorsports business he operates in Spokane, Westside Motorsports (NR Rider Feb./March 2013). The dealership had just acquired a Ducati franchise. Well, here it was in late July and we were planning a tour of some new-to-us Washington routes. We dialed Schmidtman and asked if he still had the demo machine. When he responded in the affirmative, we Change service requested: 914 Holmes Ave., Butte, MT 59701 PRSRT STD U.S. POSTAGE PAID Permit No. 93 Livingston, MT launched the coup d’ main: “Could we take it out ... er, for two days?” There was a brief, but significant, hesitation before Schmidtman responded in his typically cool and collected manner, “Yes, I suppose we could make that possible.” We rolled up to the front dock at Westside at 9:05 a.m. Friday, July 26. And there it was, a silver and black liveried Ducati Multistrada “S” Touring, idling noisily away as Associate General Manager Stephen Lay and Assistant Sales Manager Tyler Oas puttered with machine set-up. That was my first impression: the steady and almost frenetic bup-bupbup-bup thumping of the 90-degree See Ducati, Page 9 Prepping for the ITU longdistance rally Rankins ride to west coast and back two-up Page 22 Page 26 Northern Rockies Rider - 2 September 2013 River Valleys That’s a formula for a couple of very memorable days of sport-touring. We dealt with two problems on day from page 1 one: our late departure from the Spokane metro area (no big deal) and 98-degree temperatures (a fairly big deal). 9 a.m. (you “gain” an hour crossing from It was already climbing toward the Mountain to Pacific time). upper 80s when we headed west on Hwy. There we picked up a 2013 Ducati 2. We had originally planned to explore Multistrada “S” Touring demo bike to try the little county roads zigzagging northwest out of Spokane toward Long Lake and Little Falls Dams on the Spokane River but, given time and temp, decided to notch these on the way back. At Reardon, we headed north on 231, but 14 miles later near Little Falls Dam, we cut west, north, west and north to cross the Spokane Indian Reservation, through Wellpinit, then up to Hwy. 25 just below Fruitland on the Columbia River. This was Little Falls/Wellpinit Road. The asphalt out of Reardon was pretty rough with some traffic, straight stretches and sweeping turns, but soon enough we stopped for a chip seal operation that signaled an improvement once it’s swept This is on “Old Highway 22” near Porcupine Bay of the clean. We added a patina Spokane River. Fruitland was just a few more miles of of fine dust, fitting for the excellent riding up the road. out, courtesy of the dealership. (See bike review beginning on page 1.) We had lashed together a fairly loose idea of a route, ultimately leaving it open to some improvisation, which was fortunate because we didn’t clear Spokane until after 11 a.m., about an hour later than we had hoped. We were intending to explore the upper Okanagon and Kettle River valleys, but we had no idea such fine sport-touring was available on the backroads getting there, or how much pure fun it would be pushing a Multistrada along these serpentine secondaries. Wow! This stuff is world class! In most cases, surface paving was excellent, roadway engineering was acceptable, traffic volumes were exceptionally low and the scenery was diverse and magnificent. Now factor in the fine quality of people residing in the region, pretty little towns and villages, excellent dining and lodging facilities with reasonable prices ... At the foot of the Flowery Trail! Ducati adventure-tourer. The reservation stretch from Hwy. 231 to 25 was superb and about 25 miles. It is all lonesome curves with many marked down to 30 and 35, with the general limit at 50 mph. We wouldn’t suggest this be run faster, but it could be done...easily. “Bordering on technical,” our notes read, and this is where we began to give the Multistrada a bit of rein, allowing it to lope through the straights but applying a light quirt through the turns. Though running ADV rubber, the long-legged ‘Strada was impressively sure-footed, never once hinting its shoes were close to losing grip. Its “Skyhook” suspension keeps the contact patches stuck to the surface as wheels comply creamily with any pavement irregularities. Be judicious with the throttle as the Ducati is capable of simply exploding out of corner exits, which makes the Ducati Traction Control system a worthwhile, perhaps necessary, feature. After an excellent lunch at the Hunters Inn and Tavern in Hunters, astride Hwy. 25, and several big glasses of ice water, we were somewhat rejuvenated but the temperature was nearing 100 and our fortitude was bound to wane quickly. We set our sites on Kettle Falls 40 miles See River Valleys, Page 3 Experience Freedom Cool off your pipes at the HUNTER’S INN Stop in and see us for all of your sales, service, parts and accessories needs! Food - Full Bar Pool Tables, Dart Boards - Juke Box Great Homeade Enchiladas! Empire Cycle 7807 E. Sprague Avenue, Spokane Valley, WA www.empire-cycle.com (509) 892-6368 Pizza after 4:00 pm Open at noon daily! 4987 HWY 25 South Hunters WA 99137 509-722-3631 Knows Roads ➥ Knows the Best ➥ ROADS You need both. “The best piece of motorcycling in Washington”? Northern Rockies Rider thinks so! AAA Rated! Park right at your door Clean and economical Quiet: 1 block off Hwy. 395 • Continental breakfast • Air conditioning • Refrigerators, microwaves, in-room coffee, tea & cocoa • Wi-fi & data ports • Lawn & garden area • Expanded cable TV • Much more Inquire about discounts available from local businesses when you present your Nordlig room key! Nordlig Motel www.nordlig.com 509-935-6704 • [email protected] • 101 W. Grant Ave., Chewelah, WA GPS is terrific for telling you where you are . . . and where you’ve been. But what about “the best” way to get to where you’re going? The twistiest, most dramatic roads . . . the roads you brag to your buddies about! Butler Maps fills in where your GPS falls short. We show you every great road and rank them based on how good they are from a motorcyclist’s perspective. We also know that ending your ride in a neat town with a cold beer and hot meal is important so all of our maps have QR codes to hook you up with our recommendations. The next time you want to explore the best roads in America . . . don’t ask your GPS. www.butlermaps.com BUTLERMAPS butlermaps.com September 2013 Northern Rockies Rider - 3 River Valleys from page 2 to the north on Hwy. 25, running the distance along Roosevelt Lake which is the dammed Columbia River. The highway surface was in good condition. It hosted Coming up Hwy. 25 toward Hunters along the Columbia River-Roosevelt Lake. A picture says more than words – fun! And, oh, did we enjoy topping Sherman Pass on the way west to Republic! Only 78 degrees at 5,575 feet! That was according to the onboard ambient temperature sensor in the Ducati’s instrument package. We had some fun toggling between all the functions: instant and cumulative mileage readouts, trip meters, trip time and average miles per hour, remaining fuel range ... all kinds of cool info. One thing we noticed about the Multistrada: at our first fill, we were averaging less than 39 mpg. By the end of the trip, it registered over 45 mpg, probably the result of break-in miles increasing engine, transmission and drive-line operating efficiency, in combination with a more practiced throttle hand. Hwy. 20 to Republic is all well engineered constant radius turns, some marked down to 30 mph and easy to run at suggested speeds plus 20. It was a pure delight and a very fine end to a pretty good day. Plenty of other riders were out dissecting the curves, too. At Republic we found no motel with a pool and may have been lucky to find a room at all. There was an annual BMW owners confab in town so the area was crawling with bikes, many of them exotic sport machines or ADV purposed. All motels had motorcycle contingents filling their parking lots. We got a very nice room at the Klondike for about $75. The owner was most accommodating and even brought us our own coffee pot and coffee for our planned early morning launch. And the air conditioning worked! Yes! In our parking lot we had BMWs, Triumphs, Suzukis, Hondas and Harleys – ADV, dual sport, naked street fighters, cruisers, full dress tourers ... almost marginally more Friday traffic but also featured numerous, good, constant radius, sweeping turns. Up through Cedonia, Gifford and Rice and into Kettle Falls, our bodily fluids were cooking away through our hides. I wore an Olympia armored mesh jacket that was relatively cool, but Marilyn had on her Frank Thomas textile and even with the vents open and liner out, she was being slowly sautéed. We topped up the Multistrada’s tank in Kettle Falls, then guzzled a liter of water and another of Powerade, trying to top up our own fluids. I was thankful the “Duck,” though producing 150 horsepower, was not a furnace between my legs, instead just slightly grilling my right boot. We spent the night in quaint and friendly Republic, Wash., By now we which has a good craft brewery. We enjoyed the suds. We also were thinking of: had a very nice room at a good price. Nice town! We’ll be back. swimming pool, air conditioning, T-shirt and short pants, everything, but just one Ducati. sandals, soft chairs, cold beers, a sandwich I have to say, that Multistrada drew a lot and good bed. So we decided Republic, just of attention, even from the guys running 43 miles further west, was going to be the the most exotic sport equipment (there end of the line that day. was a fully farkled BMW S1000RR in the Author watching a bald eagle while taking a break along Hwy. 20 between Republic and Tonasket. We were at it early in order to avoid the day’s coming heat. lot). Everyone was curious and asked a lot of questions, as though the possibility of owning one of these models had settled in the backs of their minds. Cleaned up and in lightweight lounging clothes, we hiked just a couple of blocks down the main drag. We homed in on the Republic Brewery; we have our priorities. I enjoyed an excellent locally made porter while my wife found a tasty lager that suited her pallet. With the pints, add a big unit of peanuts, comfortable chairs on an open-air rear patio, friendly staff and patrons ... That’s just about Heaven after a day like ours. And good reason to stick around and have another pour. We then opted for some grocery deli sandwiches and headed back to the room. The next morning, with a flip of the switch the coffee brewed and we showered, packed and geared. At 6:45 we were ready to roll. Other riders had the same idea: beat the heat. Some had already left and the rest were loading. We enjoyed the easy banter with new biker friends. In fact, one of them helped determine our Saturday route. We’d been eyeing a road from Oroville to Curlew, but our dated map indicated a stretch of it was gravel, which the Multistrada was designed to handle with aplomb. However: $20K loaner bike...? We were strongly considering the risk when we were informed that road was now paved all the way. That settled things. We headed east out of Republic toward Tonasket along Hwy. 20, 41 miles of pure riding pleasure! The 4,310-foot Wauconda Summit was blessedly cool, almost cold! The Duck’s instruments indicated 51 degrees and I was wearing my mesh jacket without the liner. Despite the ‘Strada’s hand guards, my fingers actually got a little chilly. The pavement was excellent and the road even had ample shoulders, all lined with heavy timber. There was virtually no traffic...and no critters. We had the sun at our backs so we could easily see through the dozens of curves. Since we were heading into unfamiliar and remote country, we fueled at Tonasket See River Valleys, Page 8 CHESAW TAVERN Full Menu Beer & Wine “Locally Famous Bison Burgers and Brats” Ice Cold Craft Beers on Tap Pool Table Outdoor Seating Come by and check out our “Rider Approved” Biker Breakfast Hours: Tuesday through Friday “noonish” Saturday and Sunday at 8:00 a.m. for Breakfast CHESAW TAVERN 2045 Chesaw Road Chesaw, Washington Tavern 509-485-2174 • Store 509-485-2999 Northern Rockies Rider - 4 Opinion September 2013 Both specialization and versatility characterized moto market Some folks equate “diversity” with “political correctness.” Maybe so when it comes to race, ethnicity, gender and so on. When it comes to motorcycles, we at Northern Rockies Rider believe diversity is what brings joy and passion to the sport. Over time, we all tend to fall into our own preferred style niche, the broadest of them being cruiser, tourer, sport, standard, dual-sport and dirt. Then there are all the hybrids, refining the main genres: sporttouring (S-T), naked street-fighter, bagger, adventure-touring, grantouring (G-T), super sport, roadster, super-moto, cafe, moto-cross, enduro and trials. Anyone care to take a stab at defining what is a “super-sport touring” (SST)? Then there are the mini-trails, mo-peds, scooters. Trikes qualify, whether sporting two wheels up front and one behind or the opposite. A truly broad and highly specialized category is “custom,” which encompasses anything any designer or fabricator can dream up. “Classics” probably deserve their own category which will be, and should be, defined by the individual. We live in the Golden Age of motorcycling: We can select, purchase and ride a bike suited and specifically designed for any specialized riding mission. And all these designs perform better than ever before. Design, engineering, technology and reliability are superb. Materials, components and performance improve, no matter the niche. Some production motorcycles have advanced to the point where 99.9 percent of the human species is no longer capable of fully controlling them without on-board electronic brains helping out. Super sport bikes, for example, may weigh under 400 pounds and produce 180 horsepower, capable of 90 mph in first gear with a top speed approaching 200 mph. Diversity is good, though, and versatility is better. For those who enjoy several specialized types of riding, the option, if feasible, is to own several types of specialized bikes. For those with limited budgets (purchase, maintenance, license, insurance), more versatile machines with cross – or compromise – designs might be a better option. How about if you want to cruise poker runs, but also tour? Maybe a “bagger” fits the bill. You want to ride some improved gravel, but have to ride asphalt to get to it? How about a dual-sport or adventure-tourer? More off- than ontarmac? Go with the dual-sport. More on- than off-asphalt? The ADV bike is the better choice. You want some creature comforts and carrying capacity for your 400mile touring days, but love to run the twisties hard? A sport-tourer will fit the bill. Okay, you want a highperformance street rod for Saturday night stoplight-to-stoplight action, but want to run to the other coast, too? Check into a G-T set up with aftermarket hard panniers or textile bags. How about a commuter you can tour on, or a tourer that works as a commuter? Yes, there are scooters that are big and powerful enough to go cross-country. How about a bike for your 12-year-old daughter as a learner? They are available. Want to spend $40K on your new factory ride? That’s quite doable. How about $4,000 new, right off the floor? Sure. What bikes the market doesn’t provide, you can create using the after-market. And even when a manufacturer provides almost precisely what you want and need, you can customize it for yourself individually. Say you’re six-feet five inches. Need a taller seat with more room to slide back? Need handlebars further forward? Want foot pegs lowered or further forward? Need a taller windscreen to direct air over your head? All this can be obtained as factory options from the manufacturer or from the aftermarket. Small-stature folks will find the same sort of options available. Want more decibels from the exhausts? Want more power from the engine? Want a wider tire? Brighter headlight, louder horn, intercom, XM radio, GPS? Modern motorcycles are better than ever straight from the factory, but an owner can make them close to perfect. Dig the whole retro scene? Many manufacturers have introduced models with modern engineering but retro style. Some companies specialize it in it. All of this came into focus recently when we rode a Ducati Multistrada in late July. The Multistrada model is Ducati’s adventure-tour platform. But, behold, it is available in four versions: 1200 Sport, “S” Touring, Pikes Peak and “S” Granturismo. Talk about splitting already fine hairs! So you have a compromise platform that is designed for two basic functions, pavement and improved unpaved roads. However, the four available iterations further refine the basic adventure-touring niche: (1) Sport, a naked version for street shenanigans or light off-road work; (2) “S” Touring with removable hard bags, for longer-distance travel with a sporting edge that can handle gravel when need be; (3) Pikes Peak, a more competition/high performance/sport oriented naked bike with high-end components and (4) the Grantourismo, more geared toward long-distance touring with comfortable ergonomics given priority, even has a top case. Niches within niches. Perhaps ideally, every manufacturer would have something to fit every consumer need. And this is the direction manufacturers have been heading and still are to an ever increasing degree, while striving to maintain the distinction that defines a particular brand. Harley-Davidson, BMW, the Japanese Big Four, Triumph and Ducati: each brand is noted for doing what it does, exceptionally well. Yet each brand is doing better and better what it has done well all along. Perhaps the only downside to today’s motorcycle market is the difficulty entailed in making a choice. That starts with defining the kind of riding you’re anticipating, then matching the models, accessories – and budget – to your needs. The range of choices and infinite opportunities to refine our rides has never been better. Let’s celebrate diversity! Time to ride! Northern Rockies Rider Published ten times annually - Jan./Feb., March-Oct., Nov./Dec. A Continental Communications Publication 914 Holmes Ave., Butte, MT 59701 406-498-3250 • <[email protected]> Editor and Publisher - Cole D. Boehler • <[email protected]> Business and Sales Manager - Dani M. Rollison-Collins <[email protected]> 406-490-8472 Wyoming Correspondent - Dottie Rankin <[email protected]> 307-660-5171 Western South Dakota/Wyoming Representative - Earl Rankin <[email protected]> 307-660-3581 Graphic Design - Rocky Mountain Inspired - Joel & Steph Martens 406-333-2824 • <[email protected]> If you would like direct home mail delivery, send your name, mailing address, telephone number, e-mail address and $20 to Northern Rockies Rider, 914 Holmes Ave., Butte, MT 59701, or contact us at <[email protected]> Back issues are available for $5. Postmaster: Please send address change requests to Northern Rockies Rider, 914 Holmes Ave., Butte, MT 59701. All rights reserved by the publisher September 2013 Opinion Northern Rockies Rider - 5 Want to be club president? Not this club, you don’t By Cole Boehler Editor and Publisher Northern Rockies Rider The revs came up but the speed decreased until the bike stopped, first gear still engaged and the motor running. I’d buried the rear wheel in the We all do dumb things. For most loose and apparently bottomless of them we pay a price. sand. I stepped off the now quite My family has even formed “The low bike and it stood there securely Dumb Club.” Being elected president upright without the side-stand is no small feat but a dubious honor. deployed, resting comfortably with its For example, my late father was belly in the sand. elected president once when we’d I did not appreciate my brother’s been canoeing and fishing a local river and had gathered a nice stringer laughter, and did not appreciate it when he of trout for showed our dinner. others the Dad landed pictures another dandy Cole Boehler he took. and, after Editor and Publisher Neither of us attaching it to Northern Rockies Rider appreciated the stringer, having to lift tossed the and drag a mess of fish 650-pound back over the bike side of the boat...without reattaching the stringer sideways several yards to firmer ground. Dumb Club! to the gunwale. Recently a friend, out on a dayBye-bye stringer of fish. Byerun, stopped to top up his tank. bye trout dinner. Hello Dumb Club Shortly the bike began to run badly, President! coughing and choking and belching Of course, induction into the black smoke. He feared he’d burned club depends upon whether you a piston or valve as the bike had no are observed in the act or not... power and seemed to be missing. or are dumb enough to actually tell someone about the ridiculously stupid Best case was a load of bad gas. The bike was retrieved and hauled thing you did. to the shop. The tech called the next I used to watch for bargain day to confirm...yes, bad gas. In fact motorcycles for sale during winter, the gas was so bad it was diesel. perhaps for sale by a student Do not use the green-handled strapped for cash. If worthy and very cheap, I’d acquire it, then keep it until nozzle! Dumb Club! It was in Sturgis in, I think, 1981. the weather warmed, detail it and sell This was when the main doings were it at a substantial profit. I picked up a fully faired Japanese in Sturgis Park. As a sort of “right of passage,” sport bike one February. The streets anyone who entered the park in a were icy so I loaded it on my trailer car was halted by a big group of and brought it home. The ramp beefy bros. They’d gather around the was narrow and as I eased the bike rear of the car, lift it off the ground, backward and down using the front then yell to the driver, “Hit it!” As the brake, the front tire locked, skidded engine revved and the tires spun, and went off the ramp. I didn’t drop they’d drop the rear and watch the the bike but its belly landed on the burnout. Haw, haw, har, har! ramp and broke the fairing where it A good looking blonde pulled buttoned underneath in the middle. in driving a Cadillac, and the ritual I’d owned the bike for 30 minutes began. As “hit it!” was hollered, about and had done $279 damage! Dumb eight big fellas went sprawling to the Club! pavement, dirtied and skinned up I remember my first motorcycle badly. They’d miscalculated. well: a two-stroke street twin. I was See, this Cadillac was an El really green...and stupid. Dorado, one of those rare-at-the-time I was using one of those heavy front-wheel-drives. Haw, haw, har, har rubber tarp straps to secure jackets, indeed! Dumb Club! a six pack, whatever to the rear seat. My brother and riding partner At about 80 miles an hour one day, acquired the nickname “Wrong it suddenly seemed as though I was Way.” See, as we left our camp one standing on the rear brake! The bike morning, we all turned right...except rapidly decelerated, than began a Brother. Ah, I best let him tell “the rest rear wheel skid. I managed to keep it of the story.” Dumb Club! upright until it stopped. I could relate many stories from Of course, the tarp strap had my youth where profoundly poor worked loose, then fallen into and judgment was exercised. But I’ll only wrapped up around the rear disk reveal this one: brake. Dumb Club! I rode on the passenger seat of Touring in New Mexico with my buddy’s 750 Kawasaki H2 – yes, my brother, I was in the lead and searching for a frontage road I’d seen one of those squirrelly, scary twostroke triples – backwards. I was on the map to escape the four-lane waving at the traffic to the rear. I’m drone. My “alternative” ended in sort glad he didn’t think of it or he might of a crude dead-end cul-de-sac. My have executed one of those 60 mph brother wisely held back and waited wheelies the Mach IV was known for. for me to execute the U-turn. There Dumb Club! was some sand so I took it easy. Back in about 1982, a friend spent About two-thirds of the way several hundred dollars on a brand through the maneuver, the bike new set of Hein Gericke leathers – began to bog so I gave it some gas. jacket and pants. About three days later he had a tank slapper and lost it at about 85 miles-an-hour, resulting in a long slide. He’d left the leathers at home. Sadly, painfully, Dumb Club. Of course there’s getting the shoelaces or pants cuff caught in the foot peg when you go to put your foot down, and there’s forgetting about the disc lock when you go to leave... With luck, no one will observe the consequences. Dumb Club! Any time you drop your bike: Dumb Club! Not long ago I was photographing an appealing set of mountain pass curves. The situation was fairly typical: pull to the shoulder just beyond a rise, whip camera out, check mirrors for traffic bearing down from behind, shoot, toss camera in tank bag, move forward a hundred yards, watch mirrors for traffic, whip camera out, shoot, toss camera back into bag, move forward another 100 yards... etc. This time the traffic menace was profound so in order to hurry the process I was returning the camera to the bag without shutting it off. This meant the protective aperture was not closing over the lens; no big deal as I would quickly finish the photo series, then stow the camera properly. However, a glitch developed. Somehow a zipper that closes a pouch in the tank bag lid had worked open just a hair. That pouch always houses a light-weight cable with small padlock we use to secure jackets, helmets and so on to the bike when we are away from it temporarily. In this case, I’ll be damned if the padlock didn’t work its way through the opening and was hanging down into the interior of the bag. What are the odds that (a) the zipper would work open, (b) the padlock would dangle out, (c) the camera was inside the bag with its lens exposed and... (d) the padlock would contact the lens and badly scratch it...several times? What a nasty set of coincidences (induced by my own carelessness)! I like this current Canon Powershot GX 1 (paid $500 for it) so will cough up the $226 for new optical glass... and will pay attention to tank bag zippers, and will shut the camera off every time before resuming the road. More lessons learned... Dumb Club! The life of a journalist’s camera is a precarious one. I have damaged company cameras before, even lost one entirely. What is left of it is still at the bottom of the Yellowstone River, just into North Dakota, as the result of a canoe capsize while covering a raft race for the local newspaper in 1975. Spectators enjoyed it. Dumb Club! Believe it or not, about two years later, a different reporter/ photographer working for the same paper lost another company camera in the same spot, covering the same event, capsizing the same canoe! The spectators really enjoyed the repeat performance. Really, really Dumb Club! The ultimate personal Dumb Club: Leave the keys in the bike ignition, garage door unlocked. That one cost me $thousands! That deserves a club of its own. How about: Brain Dead Idiot Club? Oh yeah, I almost forgot: I gave my approval when my wife suggested she (we!) get a cat. I’m definitely in the running for Brain Dead Idiot Club president. ••••• From the strange and bizarre file: According to the Bozeman Daily Chronicle, two people were hospitalized after their motorcycle struck and killed a young black bear at 5:15 p.m. Sunday, July 21, in the Gallatin Canyon south of Big Sky, Mont. The newspaper reported people in a nearby car and a second motorcyclist riding behind the couple witnessed the accident. The riders were flown to Bozeman Deaconess Hospital. Their names and conditions weren’t known. Fish, Wildlife and Parks biologists picked up the carcass of the black bear, which was younger than two years old. Correction In the August, 2013 NR Rider review of the KTM RC8R, it was implied the bike is equipped with traction control and ABS, whereas it is not. Welcome Riders! Riverview rooms available! Free Wifi • Hot Tub 210 McFarlane Dr., Lander, WY 82520 800-624-1974 • landerholidaylodge.com $10 off Mention this ad and receive $10 off room rate! Northern Rockies Rider - 6 Opinion September 2013 Two-up: you may give up freedom but gain intimacy By Dottie Rankin NR Rider Wyoming Correspondent “Honey, you are supposed to be sitting back there bike and I am comfortable trusting my safety to him. going whee! whee!” I was thinking of the other wee- Yet it doesn’t mean that it was easy for me to get wee. over “myself” and feel at ease behind him on the After riding solo for the last three years I have When you are riding two-up on a motorcycle, bike once again. formed some definite new opinions, having just it isn’t like riding in a car, having dinner or seeing It was a challenge for the first half-day or so returned from a movie with him. It is not something but then I settled into enjoying the trip as a “fender a lengthy, anyone should take lightly. You are lizard,” as my friend calls the one on behind. I long distance entrusting your safety to another prefer to think of myself as the goddess on the back (3,900-plusperson. It is gambling your life on the of our bike! Dottie Rankin miles) skills of the one Hubby and I enjoyed Gillette, Wyo. motorcycle who is driving. riding together. We Wyoming Correspondent vacation riding For me, it found a level of intimacy two-up with my was letting go that only riding two-up hubby. of some of my can offer. Being inches Sure, riding control issues. I apart on a bike, being solo has hope my hubby surrounded by the best its definite advantages: you can ride faster, ride understood just how big a that Mother Nature has harder, lean a bit more and I love the “holy moly thing this was for me after to offer and being among that was fun” moments. good friends... How can it However, for a few complicated get better than that? reasons that I don’t care to go into right Riding pillion allowed now, I decided to ride with hubby on me to take breathtaking this trip. It wasn’t a spur of the moment photos and gave me a decision nor did it come lightly. little more freedom to There is nothing better than enjoying Dottie and Earl Rankin, closer than ever, after relax and enjoy myself. a common passion with the one you It was nice not to have 4,000 miles two-up. At Multnomah Falls and love and for us it would be riding our to navigate new territory, Crater Lake. motorcycles. new roads and heavy Hubby and I found a certain intimacy traffic on my own bike. and connection being on the bike Though being a passenger together for such a long distance. It has responsibilities and there was extremely nice being close behind are certain rules to be followed, him with my arms around his waist, being the driver of your own legs nestled next to his, my face so bike brings a whole other level close to his neck and completely trusting my safety riding solo for a few of responsibilities. to him. years, and exactly Did I like riding pillion with That is where part of the trouble came for me – what it meant about hubby? You bet I did! It is an trusting and letting go of some control. our relationship. experience I will cherish forever. Two people on one bike, both control freaks; it Riding with him Did I miss riding my own can be a bit uncomfortable. again (my idea, not bike? No, not at all ... until Example: At one point I thought he was going his) was a huge the roads got fun and I was a bit too fast for the road and I leaned up and compliment to him stuck on the back instead of said into his ear, “Honey, when the sign says slow and a gift of trust. It meant that I do trust him – navigating them on my own! down, you are supposed to slow down.” He replied, totally, that I am comfortable being on back of his Don’t worry, Glitter, next time we go together! Guest Column Long-distance rally riding can become an obsession By Bob Torter “Into The Unkown” Rally Master NR Rider Guest Columnist motorcycle riders who want to remain sane. A word of caution is warranted here: do not read this book unless you Like most Northern Rockies Rider have more self control than we do, or readers, I have owned and ridden are willing to dedicate a large part of motorcycles for your life to many years. competitive In 2003 my longwife, Sylvie, distance and I became rally Bob Torter interested in, competition. NR Rider Guest Columnist and purchased, After a BMW 1200 reading this GS Adventure. book by This very Ron, who is capable dualnow a good sport machine is intended for serious friend of ours, I became obsessed with riding on all sorts of roads and in all riding the 11-day 11,000-mile Iron Butt sorts of conditions. Rally. Many readers have undoubtedly Our first ride was from Miami, where heard of the Iron Butt Association. we purchased the bike, to Las Vegas The most frequent Iron Butt in January of 2003. We had no idea comment we have heard is, “Oh what we were doing and learned a lot yeah, I did an Iron Butt Rally. I rode through mistakes. Nevertheless we 1,000 miles in 24 hours, but did not loved the freedom and adventure of document it.” long-distance riding. Our answer is, “OK, but what did Shortly after this ride, I made you do for the next 10 days?” the mistake of reading a book by Four years of practice later, after the legendary endurance rider Ron riding countless rallies ranging 24 Ayres. The book, “Against the Wind: A hours to five days, we were qualified Rider’s Account of the Incredible Iron and picked to ride in the 2007 Iron Butt Rally,” is pure poison for sane Butt Rally. We became the eighth couple in the rally’s 25-year history to finish. We are the 362nd and 363rd persons to have finished the rally. Most competitors ride solo. Crazily, to prove it wasn’t a fluke, we did it again in 2009. (See remark above about “obsession”.) Prudently, the Iron Butt Association, which is dedicated to safe long-distance riding, does not select riders who are not battle proven by successfully and safely completing a variety of shorter rallies. This experience and our desire to give something back to the Iron Butt Association prompted Sylvie and me to develop our own rally. We selected a 32-hour time frame which is the longest time we think it is prudent for us to ride without a period of serious rest ( defined as four or more hours). Every rider will have his or her own limits which may be more or less than 32 hours. Our first rally where we served as rally masters was held in 2011 and was called “The Good, The Bad and The Ugly.” It was won by Matt Watkins who was featured in the August edition of NR Rider. Matt is most definitely considered one of the Iron Butt Association’s “big dogs.” We are now preparing for our second rally, this one called “Into the Unknown.” Our rallies are based out of the Big Sky Resort. This one commences Aug. 23 and ends Aug. 25. The actual rally run launches at 5 a.m. Saturday and winds up at 1 p.m. Sunday. NR Rider has decided to enter the rally and we welcome their participation (see related article on NRR bike prep beginning on page 22). Bravado or something else caused them to sign up for the Experienced Class versus the New-To-Sport Class. This means NRR will be competing against Matt who road 1,980 miles in his 2011 “Good, Bad and Ugly” victory, and against other rally-hardened riders. We wish the NRR rider, Sam Park of Butte, Mont., safety and success in his first rally “Into the Unknown.” We are told NR Rider will also provide coverage of the event in their next edition, as well as a series of evaluation articles on products and accessories they used in the rally. We look forward to reading the reports. Editor’s note: Bob Torter has offered future articles focusing on how to prepare, ride, and conduct a longdistance rally event. Sounds interesting and informative. We look forward to his articles. Opinion September 2013 Northern Rockies Rider - 7 Letters to the editor Editor, Hi, from Lava Mountain Lodge on The Togwotee Trail to Yellowstone. I have just given out our last copy of the July issue of NR Rider. If you have more copies we would like to give out more of them even though it’s getting late in the month. There is a lot of info for our guests in that issue and it’s a great biker travel resource for our area. The feedback we have received already from the July issue of NRR has been great. We cannot give enough thanks for the July issue and the combined articles. We would also like to receive more copies for August and (coming) September if possible. Thank you so much for doing the business profile for Lava Mountain Lodge, the timing couldn’t have been better. We will be hosting a ride during the “Rockin’ The Winds” Wounded Warrior events and rides in August and we would like to make sure the riders get at least some extra copies during their visit to LML. It might also be a good idea to provide some copies to this event. Please send them if available to Lava Mountain Lodge, attn: Rockin’ The Winds so I know to take them down or have them delivered to the event. I think this may be a great opportunity for the publication. By the way the (All Roads Lead To) Sturgis map insert is great, too, and certainly worth the price. Thank you so much for doing what you do and keep up the great work. James Jackson, Owner Lava Mountain Lodge & Wilderness Boundary Restaurant Dubois, Wyo. Editor, I live at the mouth of the Grand Coulee on Soap Lake in Washington State. I thought I’d send you a few pics from my Mt. Rainier, White Pass, Wash. motorcycle ride from July 14-15. (Editor’s note: the pics are spectacular!) I have ridden over 250,000 certified miles (my local dealer certified my mileage) on motorcycles since 1997 in Washington, Idaho, Oregon, Montana, Wyoming and B.C. For the last year I have been riding a custom-built (Honda) Fury motorcycle chopper with an 1800CC engine. I picked up several of your Northern Rockies Riders and sent them to friends of mine in B.C. This (attached picture) is Silk Creek Road out of Packwood, Wash. It goes around the south side of Mt. Rainier National Park. It is 40 miles of twisty, overgrown, 20 to 25 mph curves – one of the finest roads that you’ll ever ride. The valley is narrow and the road and river wind through it over to the west summit of the park. The vegetation along the sides of the road is so overgrown that it brushed against me in most of the turns. It is so quiet and peaceful as one seldom meets or sees another vehicle. Dave Hoffman Soap Lake, Wash. Editor’s note: Thanks, Dave! Maybe we can get these pics from you in high-resolution and maybe we can get you to share your experiences on these roads with our readers. Hello editor, My name is Matt Hill and I am the owner of the Evergreen Motel in Libby Montana. I have had quite a few customers say they use your website and (publication) frequently. I would like to know if the Evergreen Motel could be listed as a place to accommodate your bikers on their way through beautiful Libby, Montana. Please check out our website <www.LibbyMotel.com>. We love to cater to motorcyclists by offering them rags and a cleaning station upon check-in. They can also park their motorcycle right in front of the room. We are centrally located in the heart of Libby Montana close to shopping, bars, restaurants etc. We offer impeccably clean, remodeled rooms and outstanding service! For any other questions please give me a call or email. Thank you and have a wonderful day! Matt Hill (Owner) Evergreen Motel Libby MT 59923 Editor’s reply: Matt, we’ll let you get by with this blatant commercial since you give us such nice compliments! The fact is we stayed with you back in 2011 and found all to be satisfactory. And, yes, we’ll let you advertise! Editor, Getting the check in the mail today. Did I tell you (hear: brag) that I did a solo trip on my 1200 Sportster for eight weeks around the country? Put 8,000 miles on it. My butt hurt so much that I bought a 2004 Softail Heritage within a month! Considering that I started riding September of 2011, I am very proud. Happy to have found my bliss. Now off to Olympic Park with two friends. Then Glacier Park in September. Mette Elfving Incline Village, Nev. Mette, can’t figure out if you complement the bike or the other way around. Either way, looking good! –Editor Editor, Just got home from a trip to Beartooth (Highway), picked up a copy of your August paper somewhere. Never opened it until I got home. Great! Please find enclosed my check for a subscription, also $5 for the July issue. My group is already in the planning stage for Glacier next year. John S. Harms Valentine, Neb. Editor, I just discovered your publication during a recent overnight stay in Riggins, Idaho. This is good stuff – thank you for putting this together. Here is $40 for two subscriptions, one for me and one for my nephew, Ron. Monty Nickle Connell, Wash. Old School Progress: from a tarp to a pop-up camp trailer with bike bay By Steve Kelley NR Rider Columnist Every festival campground is peppered with bikes with the most wonderful variety of camping Blues and bikes. gear. It is a testament to American ingenuity. Summer is blues festival time for A common sight is the mini me. camper/pop-up trailer. I toured a It’s my “other job” and means few of these and was amazed at the I am traveling the first half of the week amount of room and and either stuff they camping or “moteling” the can hold. The second half. Steve “Big Daddy” Kelley trailer Unfortunately I NR Rider Columnist frame is the can’t carry my bed that gear on my bike, but I still holds two (if you are get to talk to a intimate) lot of bikers at the festivals and motels. adults, with a cargo hold underneath. The tent blossoms out Of course I introduce them to Northern Rockies Rider and that to a full size stand-up-and-get-your seems to be the magic key into their pants-on model with a floor. Some of these also incorporate world. After a few “howdy-doos” and an issue in their hands, the stories a covered bay for your bike. Who would want dew on the scoot in the start to flow. morning? Amazing! Another clever gizmo is a hammock frame that uses the bike as a counterweight and a couple of steel attachments hanging off the frame (no tools required) become the fore and aft hanging points of the hammock. No more sleeping on the cold, hard ground! The less spiffy but still functional alternative approach is creative tarp art. These range from single one-man, old-school lean-tos, to communal multi bike-and-pole gypsy style camps. They could be branded “The Sturgis.” The biggest boon to bike camping in my opinion is the “Taco Bed.” It is an inflatable full-size mattress with a built in 12-volt air pump. Instant bed. Weighs about 10 pounds. That makes a tired biker a happy camper. Creative packing is another talent I have come to appreciate. Saddle bags and panniers, tour packs, luggage racks, sissy bar suitcases, tank bags, faring bags, lower crash bar compartments, swing arm bags and on and on. No space left unpacked. “Honey, where’s my sun screen?” How much stuff do you really need? Well, that’s up to the individual of course. But I have to say in overview that a single man travels a lot lighter, and doesn’t need a calculator to figure his tire pressure. See you on the trail. Editor’s note: My passenger always packs a hair dryer. Rule of thumb: the amount of crap you pack will grow to fill to the amount of space you have available. More space = more crap. I recall the days of a week-long outing with a small duffle bungied to the rear seat. When you needed fresh underwear, you turned the ones you were wearing inside out. Northern Rockies Rider - 8 September 2013 River Valleys from page 3 before crossing the Okanagon River to the west, then taking the old secondary north along the west bank of the river to near Ellisforde. After just a few miles, we hooked west toward Loomis on the Loomis-Oroville Road and past Whitestone and Spectacle Lakes, then north toward Nighthawk to run along the pretty Similkameen River and Palmer Lake to within just a couple of miles of the Canadian border. Then it was east past Enloe Dam to Oroville, situated along Hwy. 97 back in the Okanagon. This is rich fruit country and pear and apple orchards and irrigated fields of alfalfa were everywhere...and so were the forest rats (deer). The pavement was narrow and fairly rough but the Multistrada, with its electronic and programmable “Skyhook” suspension, made the ride feel like a stroll through the park: what bumps? It was all tight curves, many posted down to 25 and 30. My notes say, “Don’t count on proper camber at all.” The ‘Strada simply ate them up without breaking a sweat or jangling a nerve. Traffic was light, scenery was outstanding and the riding was altogether wonderful as we dropped back down into the Okanagon Valley. We love it when the riding merit of each new leg of a route exceeds the last. This was that kind of day! Could it get any better? Yes. At Oroville, we found Cherry Street which delivered us to Chesaw Road and eastward 20 miles to the little village of Chesaw, passing by Hee Hee Mountain 80 and we were sucking water as fast as Reardon, closing our figure-eight loops. little Ducati back-road ripper, it was close we could to try to stay ahead of the day’s We were amazed at the quality of the to 4:30. We quickly transferred our cargo to approaching dehydration curve, though it country lanes just outside the Spokane our S-T, thanked Stephen profusely for the was predicted to be a few degrees cooler metro area: plenty of turns, good surface, opportunity, then jumped on I-90 east. We than the previous day. light traffic, picturesque rolling fields had two hours more riding before we could We found of ripe grain, pretty and quaint little call it quits for the day. Boulder Creek farmsteads. In contrast, my bike now felt low and Road, which By the time we hit Westside long...and heavy. The hand grips seemed becomes Deer Motorsports to reluctantly return this great positioned down and close together. But Creek Road it was familiar and it was mine, as you travel which eased some of the angst eastward out that comes from riding for two of Curlew days a $20,000 motorcycle that toward Hwy. doesn’t belong to you. 391 – about We are delighted to know 20 miles – that there are many more of running much these remote but paved county of it along the roads that can take good north fork bikes into the Washington of Boulder hinterlands. They simply need Creek. Folks, to be explored. We look forward it just doesn’t to that. get any better! To anyone else within range All the usual of the upper Okanagon and attributes of Kettle River Valleys, by all Ducati Multistrada near the shore of Palmer Lake between Loomis superb riding means, check it out! We’re glad (O.A.C.) On-Site test rides available! Financing Available and Nighthawk. There pavement wasn’t exactly smooth• but the route, were present. we did and we’ll be back, next Biker breakfast: The Chesaw Tavern did it up right. including scenery, was superb. It was time with friends in tow. We love finding little rural mom ‘n’ pops like this. another 20 miles south on Hwy. 395 to Kettle Falls. (love the name). We were told this little We’re in the center of some of This was good running on a modern village hosts one big rodeo each summer. highway, smooth and with shoulders. My notes on this stretch read: Traffic remained light but certainly heavier “Wonderful; awesome! All curves. than we’d experienced the previous four Pavement rough, engineering negligible. hours. Almost zero traffic. Fun, fun, fun!” Comfortable • Convenient We cut east to Colville, then dropped How’s that for a prelude to a fine down to Chewelah on 395 following the Economical breakfast at a funky country roadhouse, the Colville River. Traffic gained some volume Chesaw Tavern? Right, one of my favorite • Park at your door Spokane’s Largest Multi-Brand • Kitchenettes available but the ride was quite pleasant and the late-morning “biker breakfasts”: chicken• Picnic area with barbecue grill Motorsports Dealership fried steak with hash browns all smothered scenery was excellent. • Near: downtown Chewelah and good Five miles below Chewelah we picked restaurants, Chewelah Casino, in country gravy, two eggs basted, wheat I-90 at Exit 276 Chewelah Golf and Country Club up Hwy. 231 south to Springdale and toast and a big glass of cold milk. Ahhh, Just West of Downtown Spokane Ford, then to Long Lake Dam. The traffic yes! 4201 S. Grove Road, Spokane, WA 99224 dissipated once again while the road From Chesaw we pushed southeast on surface remained of quality as we rode the Chesaw Road – more of the same fabulous sweeping turns. The country was a mix country lanes – to Toroda Creek Road, of timber and cultivated fields. All very then West Kettle River Road to Curlew: enjoyable. a distance of 33 miles. West Kettle was a 1-888-412-1994 • 49er-motel.com Just below the dam we located West hoot, following the west fork of that great [email protected] Long Lake Road, then navigated a series of river and down into Curlew. 311 S. Park Street (Hwy. 395) country roads back down to Hwy. 2 east of Chewelah, WA 99109 The temperature was already above The Best Riding in the World! 509.747.1862 westsideracing.com The 49er Motel & RV Park September 2013 Northern Rockies Rider - 9 Passenger perspective Given its mission, Multistrada passenger accommodations are favorable By Marilyn Irey the wind. Okay, I thought, let’s compare this to the Suzuki DL-1,000 V-Strom The only specific thing I knew about adventure bike that we own rather than a Ducati Multistrada 1200 “S” Touring our usual sport-tour ride. bike when we arrived in Spokane was I felt secure and had good hand grips the luggage above the capacity. mounted hard That’s bags. I suppose because I’d they’re really for asked. lifting the bike Marilyn Irey That was and securing Contributing Writer a crucial it on a trailer, question but I liked them for me in as hand-holds. planning to be This bike has out overnight a lot of power when the forecast was for hot weather. and is very snappy so a couple of times I Was there going to be room for fresh, really needed those grips! dry clothes in the bags and room to stow The fact that it has hard-sided excess gear like riding pants and jacket luggage is a real plus for me; however, liners? this isn’t the bike to take out on a weekThe issue was complicated by the long trip as the capacity is limited unless fact that we would have no tail pack and, you add a tail pack or tank bag. (The further, when we found the magnetic tank “S” Grantourismo version has a rear bag we intended to use would not work top box.) Frankly, there are probably with the plastic shrouding the Ducati gas not a lot of people who would use the tank. Multistrada two-up. We did find some under-seat storage When we arrived at our motel Friday capacity that was quite handy for small night, there was a BMW gathering in items. town and several of them stayed at Oh, and the bike looked great – in the same site we had chosen. They red – on the Ducati website. I liked the exhibited a lot of interest in the far more edgy angles and sparse form. I wasn’t rare Ducati. disappointed in the appearance in I was watching men walk into their person either, but I would go for the red rooms with a bag the size of a shaving paint rather than the silver and black kit. Maybe I should have been envious. scheme on the actual demo bike. One guy was drying clothes (he had First off, I had to get my mind in evidently done laundry in his room) on the right place: we were two-up on an the shrubs. adventure-touring bike, not a sportSorry, there is such a thing as too tourer. Primarily for the passenger that minimalist! means taller and less protection from I had trouble figuring out the latching Ducati from page 1 In mounting the ‘Strada, it was clear the 33.5-inch seat height was going to be a factor. I could not completely flatfoot at stops with my 32-inch inseam so maneuvering on anything but bare asphalt would warrant extra caution. Happily, the tall bike stayed upright during its time with us. Speaking of tall, this bike has some legs – Sachs inverted forks and singlesided swingarm, each with 6.7 inches of travel, befitting its “adventure-touring” mission, intended to be a potent, proficient and sporty tarmac tourer with “Testastretta” 1198CC V-Twin, clearly a high-strung power plant derived from the Ducati superbike development. We got down to business. Lay gave me a quick rundown on the bike’s controls including the menu to select operating modes for ABS brakes, engine output management, automatic (“Skyhook”) electronic suspension adjustments and much more. The chipped key fob thingy’s operation was explained. My Luddite self thought, “Yeah, but why?” It was neither convenient nor inconvenient, just “modern” and “hightech” and “sophisticated,” I guess. We knew the Multistrada came equipped Only half joking, there author lays a big smooch on the Ducati he was with integrated falling in love with. and removable hard panniers off-pavement aspirations. But let’s be of 58 liters capacity, so we expected clear: at 516 pounds wet, this is no trail repacking our freight to be a snap. bike, nor even dual-sport. However, the magnetic tank bag we Besides, do you really want to take brought would not cling to the plastic your $20,000 baby ripping up some dry Ducati gas tank cover, so our carrying capacity was reduced. We improvised. See Ducati, Page 10 and locking system on the bags and once when I finally figured it out, a sharp protrusion stabbed me in the finger. No harm, just a little blood, but I hate asking for help with things that should be simple and intuitive. Although the bike is powerful it didn’t have the buzzy V-twin feel that I get on the V-Strom. And it only seemed corrections and was not noticing any. The seat was far too rigid. By the time we had gone 100 miles I had real pain and by day’s end was happy to get off. Maybe the Grantourismo model is better designed for couples. I liked the serrated foot pegs – my boot stuck firmly in place when I was on and didn’t slide around. However, it Author Marilyn Irey works out the logistics of repacking four days worth of gear from four bags into two days worth in two bags. intrusively loud a few times, sitting practically right on top of those mufflers. As far as wind protection goes, it wasn’t too bad. The aerodynamics were good so I didn’t experience a lot of fatiguing blast. Since this is also a very lightweight bike for touring duty, I wonder how it would react to cross winds, but suspect it would be stable since there isn’t a lot of bodywork to catch wind. It felt as though the handling was excellent. As a passenger I pick up on things like jerky corner steering seemed the pegs for the passenger don’t snap into the down position. Several times while mounting my toe would tap the peg and fold it back up against the bike. Again, a minor inconvenience. Although this bike isn’t the longdistance platform for me, I could tell Cole was having a ball and that he enjoyed fiddling with the sophisticated programmable rider modes. It did have a very smooth ride. If it were ours, I’d love the chance to explore the back country on a Ducati Multistrada. Northern Rockies Rider - 10 September 2013 Ducati from page 9 taut ride, just like we prefer. Besides, in “touring” the throttle hit was dampened as well, a good thing since that engine delivers overwhelming wallop. At pillion, Marilyn nevertheless found herself occasionally grabbing with some degree of panic when the twist grip was applied injudiciously. The ergonomics were initially strange but functional: relatively high foot pegs meant a slight cramping at the knees but good ground clearance; foot pegs and controls are well positioned below the thighs for easy manipulation and for standing when the going is rugged; and a high and wide “motocross” bar with an easy and comfortable reach yields plenty of leverage for light-effort steering inputs. The seat is a different matter. While it allowed some air to come around and ventilate the front of my mesh jacket. I’d shop the aftermarket or Ducati catalog for something about two or three inches taller to cleanly send airflow over my helmet crown. The Multistradas come in four configurations: the basic Multistrada 1200 Sport, the “S” Touring, the Pikes Peak and the loaded Grantourismo. The “S” retains 17-inch cast wheels front and rear for enhanced highway performance and handling. Indeed it feels light and steers that way too, with relatively small inputs yielding substantial movement. I found it exceptionally easy to select a cornering line, slightly duck the shoulder, hit it and rail it through with almost zero creek bed strewn with sand and boulders? Not me! Incidentally, the Italian “mulit strada” literally translates into “many roads.” This bike reminds one of the dude in the Dos Equis commercials: extremely sophisticated but with a rough, tough and adventurous aspect. Ducati says this of its “Skyhook” suspension: “This system is characterized by active suspension control that automatically and continually adjusts damping to maintain a steady attitude regardless of road conditions, reduce the amount of vibration transferred to rider and passenger, and significantly improves riding comfort and stability. “The name ‘Skyhook’ describes the feel of the bike, which seems to be hooked up to the sky and immune to bumpy terrain. “The DSS system instantly processes the inputs from a number of sensors (vertical accelerometers) located on sprung and unsprung components and adjusts compression and rebound damping according to selected Riding Mode so as to minimize the vertical motion caused by the road and maximize riding comfort and stability. “In addition...the DSS uses the inputs from the Ride-byWire system and the pressure The ‘Strada in its element: twisty back roads in the west Okanagon. You can almost think the nimble sensors of the ABS to adjust machine through the turns. damping continually so as to minimize load transfers during transition from is firmly padded and quite comfortable input at the bars. Gas it a little at the exit braking to acceleration and deceleration, at the outset, it features a scooped bucket and she’ll run wide and stand up, just like with great benefits in terms of dynamic that allows no room to move the heine it ought to. performance. around so after an hour a burn sets in that Brembo ABS brakes are near perfect: “Rear suspension spring preload intensifies throughout the day. Still, it is powerful, progressive and predictable adjustment is integrated with the Riding no worse than the Corbin on my current with more than enough oomph to bring Modes. The system enables the rider to S-T ride. We’ d guess an aftermarket the bike and load to a quick halt with no select the different Riding Modes (Sport, custom seat builder can supply an drama. You can almost forget about using Touring, Urban and Enduro), and to improved perch. the rear; the front alone will do the job. change setup conveniently and quickly Besides, with the right roads, you’ll be The Pirelli Scorpion Trail skins to suit load conditions and type of trip: having too much fun to notice the little appear to have some off-road aspirations, riding solo, rider and luggage, riding aches and pains. but don’t be fooled – this is exemplary two-up or two-up with luggage. The DSS The ‘Strada “S” features a petite and pavement rubber that sticks well and does recognizes customized settings and re-tunes surprisingly effective windscreen to help not squirm. They perfectly complement accordingly before starting interaction.” manage airflow. It is manually, and easily, the chassis, suspension, steering, brakes Yadda, yadda ... it just flat works and height adjustable while underway through and engine, making the package all quite works splendidly. perhaps three inches of travel. At its seamless. Durability might be another We kept the ‘Strada set mostly in highest, it mostly kept windblast off my issue and one an actual owner will have to “touring” mode which delivered a helmet face shield, yet its narrow waist discern. wonderfully controlled and compliant, yet The clutch has a slightly heavy pull (and a tiny hydraulic reservoir). A larger master or slave cylinder would probably help. It is Ducati’s newer “wet” version whose plates run in oil, as opposed to the more traditional dry clutch known for producing that venerable and distinctive Ducati rattle. Which leads to shifting. I’ve got to chalk up the bike’s gummy and hesitant shifting feel to the fact that it had less than 100 miles on it when we left Westside and just over 500 when we returned. It felt like the gear box was filled with 80-weight! I wound up finding false neutrals a half-dozen times anywhere in the gearing range, whether changing up or down. It is disconcerting to find yourself whacking the throttle in neutral after what you thought was a third-tofourth up-shift. Okay, there was another factor at work here which influences all of our impressions of any new bike we’re piloting: that is what we are used to. In my case, I am used to shaft-drive with a silky and well used gear box that requires a mere squeeze at the clutch and tap at the shift lever to effect an effortless, clean gear change. The “Duck” shifted without any crunching or banging, but it clearly wanted an energetic manipulation of the shift lever: throw it up or pop it down, just don’t be gentle or hesitant. Again, attribute this phenomenon to lack of break-in miles and an operator used to a different setup and lacking a feel for this particular transmission and clutch. As proof, our shifting was improving through the miles and our time with her. See Ducati, Page 11 Motel 6 of Butte We Are Riders! Manager Rochelle Schultz and husband Rob welcome you! • Motorcycle Friendly • Lowest Prices in Butte area • Adjacent to C-Store, Fuel, Casino, Restaurant & Lounge • Free Wi-Fi, Coffee & Cable • Very Clean with Friendly Staff • Smoking Rooms Available • Laundromat Facilities I-15/I-90 Interchange at Rocker - Exit 122 406-782-5678 • motel6.com - then search Butte Casper, Wyoming “Our goal is to provide top notch service and affordable pricing” Steve and Jill Hickstein and their crew are looking forward to meeting you when you are in Casper! Used Motorcycles and ATVs - Service - Tires Accessories - Apparel - Sunglasses - and more.... The Chop Shop - 3233 CY Avenue - Casper, Wyoming 9am-7pm Monday-Saturday • 307-234-6441 • thechopshopwyoming.com September 2013 Northern Rockies Rider - 11 It’s clear the Ducati line is no sideline at Westside Motorsports Ducati sky had we kept the twist grip pinned. The water-cooled Testastretta “L” engine gets dual overhead cams, four from page 10 valves per cylinder and two spark plugs per jug. It is grossly over-square which Now that we’ve got the complaints implies big bores and short strokes out of the way, let’s start heaping on the which means high piston speeds, RPM, praise. See Ducati, Page 12 The engine. What is technicians. required to take Now My, my. Yes, bad to the bone... on – and make calculate the It’s a good thing engine response very substantial investment and output can be modulated with the investments in an entirely flick of a toggle, because this “L-Twin” in – a brand new parts puts out prodigious gobs of grunt, just new franchise inventory brute thrust with a crisp punch! Massive in the depths and all the torque everywhere – 91.8 pounds-feet, of the worst specialized not to mention 150 ponies in harness! Most of the torque is available from recession in the tools and 3,000 to 8,000 RPM so shifting is almost motorsports equipment optional. business in required to Fuel injection calibration is nearly decades? What is service the flawless so power builds on a fairly flat required to take machines. trajectory with no spikes or troughs, just on two of them? Ducati company reps assisted Westside in And consider a steady onward rush. Probably the required designing a space to best display the Ducati Since this bike wasn’t yet fully bikes and accessories. a thoroughly investment broken in, and was not ours, we chose Come as a stranger, developed to stock all to not experience peak power at its leave as a friend. spread sheet to process the financial the Ducati-branded accessories and 9,250 RPM redline. But we can tell you scenarios, and a banker who believes apparel. at a nearly full-open throttle in third Live Music on Weekends gear, as the tach approached 7,000 and in his client’s foresight and soundness In addition, the dealership, with the speedometer 80, the front tire’s of judgment based on a track record of Ducati company design assistance and 703 Main Street, Spearfish, SD contact with the pavement got a little past success. approval, remodeled the south end of sketchy. We’ d have been looking at blue 605-642-2134 You’d be hard pressed to find a the interior floor to properly capture more coolthe modern, upscale sporting headed, flavor unique to the marque, reasonable and to suitably display the Ph: 307-685-4452 or and rational Italian exotics. 307-685-8100 businessman Finally, budget than Scott $thousands to market and 100 Ross Ave., Ste. A, Schmidtman, promote the new line: radio, Gillette, WY 82716 owner of TV, newspaper, outdoor and marlinsmotorcycles.com Westside Internet. Motorsports Schmidtman and Westside Ride in...Ride out Oil Changes. No appointment necessary! in Spokane. seem to be off to a strong Scott Schmidtman, owner, He wouldn’t start, having sold nearly 20 Westside Motorsports, Spokane. Ducati units before summer’s make these investments mid-point. visit a complete and authentic mining camp rashly, and a masters degree in business One other thing we noticed buildings with artifacts! administration and a law degree surely immediately about Westside that sets Take a ride over back50 inunderground time... filled mine tours! help keep his head on the level. them apart: the staff smiles! They seem visit a complete and authentic mining camp - over 50 building filled with artifacts! underground exhibits and tours! Right: in 2010 Westside Motorsports, already hosting Honda, Yamaha and Kawasaki as well as CanAm, Polaris and Ski-Doo, added BMW motorcycles. Then in the spring of Take a ride back in time... Take toaberide in time... having aback lot of fun; it’s visit a complete and authentic almost as though they actuallymining camp - over 50 building filled with artifacts! underground exhibits and tours! enjoy their work and look forward to interacting with the public. We hate to say it, but that attitude and disposition is refreshing! For about four million of us living in the inland Northern Rockies, Westside Motorsports is the closest Ducati dealer around and the Ducatis are about status, class and caché – only one between Seattle and even sex appeal – and the department display Minneapolis. We are fortunate at Westside reflects that. to have them. 2013, they launched a Ducati line, no Check them out. small proposition. First, Schmidtman ordered 35 Westside Motorsports bikes from Bologna, Italy, surely an 4201 S Grove Rd, Spokane, WA – WHERE HISTORY TELLS A STORY. investment in excess of a half-million Exit 276 off I-90 on the west side of VISIT THEwww.miningmuseum.org WORLD MUSEUM MINING / 155OF Museum Way, P.O. Box 33, Butte, Montana 59703 dollars. Spokane, (509) 747-1862 Phone: 406-723-7211 WHERE HISTORY TELLS A STORY. Museum Way, P.O. Box 33, Butte, Montana 59703 Then he sent two staff to school in <westsideracing.com> www.miningmuseum.org / 155Phone: 406-723-7211 Montana St.north Exit on offMontana I-90/I-15upatthe Butte, California to become certified Ducati <[email protected]> Best route: Montana St.Best Exitroute: off I-90/I-15 at Butte, hill tonorth Park on Montana up the hill to Park VISIT THE WORLD MUSEUM OF MINING St., left on Park straight the Montana Tech campus, then watch for the sign. St., left on Park and straight through theand Montana Tech through campus, then watch for the sign. Northern Rockies Rider - 12 September 2013 Ducati from page 11 horsepower and performance. Yes, the bores – 4.17 inches or 106mm across – exceed those found in a GM 396 bigblock. This engine is happy to accept gulps of high-octane once spun up to 3,500 RPM; lower than that and it motors onward though under chugging protest. Unique to Ducati is the “desmodromic” valve actuation whereby valves are opened and closed with levers, as opposed to the levers and springs on conventional layouts. This adds to the general cacophony emanating from down in the engine bay. Ducatis used to get slammed for overly frequent service intervals. No more. Those desmo-actuated valves can wait for 18,000 miles these days before inspection and adjustment. Ducatisti love to wax poetic about the desmodromic motor’s audio character. else as it climbs through the rev range with intake butterflies open. It does growl, then snarl, then roar, then howl! It positively booms! And the timbre of that output is nothing but psychopathically aggressive, even menacing and angry! It is addictive, too. One may find themselves wasting fuel just Just west of Spokane as we were reluctantly hustling the machine back to Westside motorsports before closing to hear that tune time. played. The last leg properly. The mounting fit was tight and With a few minor alterations, it could be a of our test ride I removed my earplugs the bags sometimes had to be gently long-distance contender. to hear the beast better. With open ears hammered into place with a meaty fist. But that’s not what it is all about. The the volume was surprising but not at all Ducati reinvented this mounting Multistrada series is about fun, whether unpleasant or fatiguing. system for no reason; they did not behaving like an urban hooligan, carving The big power pulses are fed into the improve on the concept. They only need canyons as Ricky Racer, running the Specs Year2013 ManufacturerDucati ModelMultistrada 1200 “S” Touring MSRP$19,995 Engine type L-twin cylinder, 4 valve per cylinder, desmodromic Engine displacement 1198cc Bore & stroke 106 mm x 67.9 mm Compression ratio 11.5:1 CoolingLiquid-cooled Fuel system Mitsubishi electronic fuel injection, Mikuni throttle bodies IgnitionElectronic Starting system Electric Transmission Six speed Final drive Chain 5.30; front sprocket 15; rear sprocket 40 Rake and trail 25 degrees / 4.33 in. Wheel base 60.2 in. Seat height 33.5 in. Front suspension Sachs 48 mm fully adjustable inverted fork; electronic compression Rear suspension Electronic compression & rebound damping adjustment Front brake 2 x 320 mm semi-floating discs, radial-mount Brembo calipers, 4-piston Rear brake 245 mm disc, 2-piston caliper Front tire Pirelli Scorpion Trail 120/70 17’’ Rear tire Pirelli Scorpion Trail 190/55 17’’ Fuel capacity 5.3 gal. Weight 516 lbs. wet Here’s what the company itself says of that: “A uniquely deep note coming from the exhaust system. A constant symphony of the engine. Music for all enthusiasts. “The unmistakable Desmodromic ‘roar’ is the result of the particular configuration of the engine, the famous L-twin cylinder, as well as the intake and design of the exhaust system: a real symphony for all Ducati enthusiasts.” Before I read this marketing-speak, I listened carefully to that engine. On my own I concluded that somehow Ducati engineers had managed to tune and time the intake and exhaust pulses to actually create a sort of complementary harmony. Strange concept? Maybe. But whatever, it works. The Ducati sounds like nothing chain drive, frame, pegs, seat, bars and mirrors, rendering rearward images a blur: you can see if something is back there but not what. When you’re on the gas, you can feel it throb; when at steady throttle, the platform is pleasingly mellow. As for further creature comforts, the side bags are spacious but sacrifice some volume on the right to accommodate an exhaust cutout. There are three latches per bag (why?) that we never felt handy with; they were always a struggle but with familiarity would no doubt become routinely automatic. And the way the panniers mount and latch to the chassis seemed overly complex and cumbersome, requiring a lateral sliding motion for them to seat to look at other, easier and more effective mounting systems found on BMWs and other makes. Small stuff, indeed. This exotic from Italy is simply a blast to ride, and adrenalin is addicting. It is also confidence-inspiring as, despite belonging to someone else and scaled at $20K, we nevertheless pushed it through turns with some fairly serious lean and zest. Never once did we experience a pucker. The rider can execute turns-withinturns with just a flick. It goes where you point it and sticks. While it has no pretense at being an all-day luxo-yacht, it can be pressed into serious touring duty. Continental Divide Trail or out for a long weekend with your sweetie...it’s about having fun. The “S” Touring delivers in spades. Would I go out and buy a Multistrada today? No, I personally could not justify the outlay, but plenty of others could and will. However, if I had unlimited resources and the space in my motorcycle corral, there’d be a “S” Touring or Grantourismo at the Boehler hitchin’ post. Long live fun! Warranty: two years, unlimited miles NR Rider impression: In the heart of the Wind River Mountains lies a scenic byway and gateway to the Grand Teton and Yellowstone National Parks ~ A motorcyclist’s dream... Cabins, Tent or RV Sites • Log Home • Wilderness Boundary Restaurant Liquor Between the Peaks - Full Bar & Liquor Store Fuel • Store • Showers • Laundromat • Discounts Join us on the sunset deck or around a campfire, sharing a microbrew with friends! Welcome to Yellowstone Country - No Itinerary - No Schedule No Regrets - Good Times at a Great Place! Lava Mountain Lodge - Book your trip today! 800-919-9570 lavamountainlodge.com 57 miles from Jackson Hole and 18 miles from Dubois September 2013 Rider Profile Northern Rockies Rider - 13 Washington native says his life on two wheels is ‘wonderful’ By Cole Boehler 2013 when he passed through on the horse...” Montana in the midst of a He also wrecked his 900 Honda coming A lot of motorcycle riders are 13,000-mile-plus, two-month through Las Vegas from California when a patiently waiting – hoping – for an tour of the Midwest, West and car again was partially in the wrong lane in opportunity to do what Eugene Kuhn British Columbia. an “S”-curve, Kuhn said. does: ride as much and far as he He rode five of those days “I could go into the trees or lay it down. wants. in Montana, including two I went into the trees. I hit a sand berm, the Of course, aside from hitting a days with this writer and wife, fork bottomed and the windshield put a big lotto prize, these opportunities Marilyn, Kuhn’s first cousin. gash above my eye. I bent the handlebars are earned, and Kuhn earned his One of those days constituted and broke the mirror... I think I was by sticking with a union job in the a 310-mile figure-eight probably doing 80 when I went off; I was elevator installation, service and through some fantastically wearing a T-shirt and shorts. It’s incredible repair industry for over 30 years, remote areas with every type that I wasn’t badly hurt. I rode it away.” retiring in 2007. of paved surface and roadway But the days of craziness, booze and But his years haven’t been all engineering...or lack of it. bike wrecks ended that morning in 1982. smooth sailing. Kuhn has an easy riding “Alcohol and motorcycles don’t mix. Kuhn admits to his share of hell style where you never shake Bar hopping and motorcycles are a bad raising in his youth. Despite the him and he never crowds you; combination,” Kuhn says flatly. statute of limitations, most of those he’s just always “back there,” He became very serious about traveling episodes won’t find their way into this riding fluidly, effortlessly, even on bikes with the acquisition of the Gold article, but it will suffice to let Kuhn in the most technical sets of Wings and his wife, Denise. summarize: turns. And we’ve observed “Once a year Denise and I would take “It was 1982. I woke up (after a him hustling his big Cadillac a one-month motorcycle vacation, Seattle Eugene Kuhn, living the life! He’s retired and was out on a night of hard partying) and decided of a Gold Wing through the to Key West, that kind of thing. I did the little 13,000-mile cruise, here at Yaak Falls in northwestern I wanted to go for a ride,” he relates. same type of routes, calmly ‘Four Corners’ (of the U.S.) – 9,750 miles Montana. “My ribs hurt so I thought I might grinding away his floorboard in 12-and-one-half days. I rode 4 a.m. to 10 have been in a fight. I went outside sliders. p.m. every day. round, often with his new flame, Anita, as a and my bike was there on it’s side-stand... Through a dozen bikes and 400,000 “I’ve done a Saddle Sore 1,000 (1,000 passenger. wrecked. My leathers and helmet were all miles, Kuhn has had his share of mishaps, miles in 24 hours) and a Bun Burner 1,500 Kuhn started riding bikes as a kid, first scuffed. especially back in his wild days. (1,500 miles in 36 hours).” on a Honda 50 Mini Trail. But he had “I told myself, ‘You’ll never have “Crashes? Oh yeah! He currently works part-time on bigger aspirations so moved up to a Honda another drink’...and I haven’t.” “I hit a VW microbus head-on in 1970, ” contract as a guard for Immigration 350 MotoSport, a Honda CB 500, then a Along the way, he has been married he recalls. She drove into his lane and and Customs Enforcement, which Triumph 650. four times – divorced three times and was cited. “I broke a hole in my helmet, allows him to structure his own hours. He soon went back to the Honda widowed once – and is father to Karisa knocked out six teeth and broke two ribs. He characterizes his life these days as marque, riding a CB 900 Custom...which who is an aviation mechanic’s mate in I did a number on the VW. It was maybe “wonderful.” the U.S. Navy, a 50 mph impact. I had to get new teeth, “Motorcycles are a part of my life; they currently stationed bridge work. are my life. It’s what I do for entertainment. in Florida. “Five hours later I was out riding my I’ve always had a bike – except for one year Kuhn, 61, was brother’s 350 Honda. I had to get right back – and always will.” born in the Minot, N.D., area where his father worked in the oil fields. The family moved to Butte, Mont., a year later where the senior Kuhn worked for the Anaconda Mining Company. Kuhn with his cousin, Marilyn Irey, discussing their backwoods The Buffalo Bill’s Irma Hotel and Cody Motor Lodge invite When he was location along Wolf Creek Road between Libby and Fortine, 10, Eugene and you to wipe off the trail dust with us in the Wyoming Mont., in late June. family moved on town where history lives on! to Seattle where his father worked for a tool and die company, got beat in a drag race by a 750 Kawasaki, Irma Hotel - est. 1902 eventually locating to Kent, Wash., where Kuhn says, and that would not do. Eugene stayed for 28 years. So he bought an XS1100 Yamaha, the Kuhn says a neighbor across the street fastest production bike at the time, and The Irma Hotel is your “gathering place” before or worked in the elevator trade, then his then upgraded to the Yamaha 1100 Maxim. after any event in the Cody area. Enjoy good times in brother got into it, making “good money.” In 1973 he sampled a Harley-Davidson the Silver Saddle Saloon, fine dining in the restaurant So at age 26, Kuhn decided that was what Sportster, then moved up to Super Glide in and a comfortable stay in cozy rooms. Step back in he wanted to do, too, so he began to pester time to the heart and spirit of Cody, Wyoming and see 1975, this one graced with an $800 custom why everyone says, “Meet me at The Irma!” every elevator company in the region for an paint job. entry-level position. He bought his first Honda Gold Wing After six months of hustling, he got on in 1995, a used 1,200CC four-banger, with Westinghouse and entered a four-year which he quickly traded in for the new The famed Cody Gunfighters perform nightly, apprentice program. Schindler acquired the 1,500CC six-cylinder. He’s been a ‘Winger Monday-Saturday, in front of the Irma Hotel at Westinghouse business, then Kuhn wound since. 6pm from June through September FREE SHOW up with ThyssenKrupp AG, a German firm, He currently owns a 2005 1,800 ‘Wing the last two years of his career. He retired with well over 100,000 miles on the in 2007, moving with his wife to Sun Cove, odometer. In the interim, he owned and Wash., between Wenatchee and Chelan. rode a 2009 twin-cylinder 650 Kawasaki His spouse of 12 years, Denise, was purchased new in 2011 for commuting and •Clean & comfortable rooms • Ground diagnosed with cancer, beat it back, then sport duties. floor rooms with parking available for lost the war to the disease in August of Kuhn said, “I put eight miles on it, motorcyclists • In room coffee 2008. then put it on the ground. The tires were • In-house laundry • Pet friendly (Editor’s note: I was fortunate to get to greasy; the shop may have put some kind •Free Wifi •2 blocks from Irma Hotel ride with Eugene and Denise once during of preservative on the tires. I didn’t like the her last struggle with the disease. She was a twin anyway, so bought a (600CC) FZ6R sweetheart and is missed.) Yamaha, a mild, small four-cylinder sportIrma Hotel Restaurant and Saloon est. 1902 Buffalo Bill’s Cody Motor Lodge Not long after Denise passed away, 1192 Sheridan Avenue - Cody, Wy. 1455 Sheridan Avenue - Cody, Wy. tour.” Kuhn packed up and moved to Florence, 800-745-4762 • 307-587-4221 800-340-CODY • 307-527-6291 That commuter was traded in 2013 for AZ, southeast of the Phoenix area where www.irmahotel.com www.codymotorlodge.net the third-generation Yamaha FJR 1,300 he resides today, and where he rides yearwhich he was touring on in the summer of The pathways have changed to pavement but the landscape is still the same... Ride it! Northern Rockies Rider - 14 September 2013 By David Fletcher NR Rider Contributing Writer Butte, Mont., is known for its festivals. There’s the Montana Folk Festival, Evel Knievel Days and the An Ri Rá Irish Festival, not to mention its bacchanalian St. Patrick’s Day Celebration. They’re all fun, but for me Evel Knievel Days is the best. Perhaps it’s the awe factor combined with the free-for-all carnival like atmosphere that gets me going. I love the allure of the raw and borderline madness. I’m all anticipation weeks in advance and I’m ready to go well before the event swoops into Uptown Butte. It’s temporal, here one moment and gone the next, and like life, it’s not the glitter and sounds of the moment that stir the emotions, but rather the people. The performers are a multitude of oddities that arrive representing the crazy and extreme. Of all the EK events the one that leaves me with a smile and a rush that just won’t go away is the “Wall of Death.” “The Wall of Death” is basically a wooden drum structure 30 feet in diameter that features 90-degree walls 14 feet high. It’s constructed of large wooden board tracks that are held together by nuts, bolts and cables. The structure can withstand the three Gs of force put to its inner wall while holding a crowd of more than 180 people. The building is as much a show as are the motorcycles and their riders. It takes an expert rider with real guts and grit to navigate the “Wall.” The riders ascend an initial ramped section at the bottom of the drome until they gain enough speed to drive perpendicular to the floor, usually in a counter-clockwise direction. Once the G-force kicks in, the thrill of physics takes over and the riders stick to the vertical wall going around and around parallel to the ground while the audience watches from the top of the drome. Once the rider scales the height of the wall, the drome begins to shake, exhaust billows up and the rider swishes by in a blur of rattling noise. The stunters delight you with daring antics like riding with no hands, sitting sidesaddle, snatching dollar bills from your hand and even staging two-person races speeding up to 50 miles-per-hour. I had the opportunity to meet up with the American Motor Drome performers the first day of the EK Days. I was met by Charlie Ransom who’s been with the act since 2002. I’d sent Charlie an e-mail earlier in the week to set up the appointment. We sat in folding chairs behind the Motor Drome. When Charlie went into the trailer to get more coffee I noticed he walked with a slight limp. Charlie joined up with the America Motor Drome’s “Wall of Death” at a time in his life when he was trying to recover from a divorce. He said he didn’t really give up on it, he just quit. He said he was See Wall of Death, Page 15 Biker Friendly Hotels Shelby Butte Dillon Helena Miles City Big Timber Columbus Conrad Great Falls Hamilton Harve Summer 2013 SCAN ME Montana’s Best Since 1953 • Conveniently located across Montana to serve you. www.townpump.com or download the Town Pump app Belgrade September 2013 Northern Rockies Rider - 15 Wall of Death from page 14 on a “non-responsibility mission” and couldn’t get along and didn’t fit ... didn’t motorcycles and the marketing of motorcycles by the big time leather clad biker events,” he said. “But the bond that holds us together is that we’re doing something no one else does. Lots of guys come by and want to ride the “Wall of Charlie riding an Indian 101 Scout, the undisputed best mount for trick riding on the Wall of Death. These machines were built in Springfield, Mass., from 1928-31. This is a 1928 edition. Death,” but when it comes down to the nitty gritty of work – and that’s what this thing is, it’s hard work – they split. “It’s tough putting the drome up and taking it down, then heading off to next city,” he continued. “For example, we got in yesterday around 4:00 in the morning from Ohio, caught a couple hours sleep then worked until 9:00 last night getting the show ready. “That’s why there’s no one else doing this, because it’s hard work and low pay. If you do it, it’s because you have the desire to make it go. My friend here, Wahl E. Walker, drives the tractor trailer and he rides too. He turned 63 this past June.” Wahl E. Walker has been riding “the wall” since the 80s. He was taught to ride by the great lady trick rider, Samantha Morgan. They both joined up with Jay Bentley Charlie taking a rest after the show. He looks beat, but when he built the American content. want to get along and didn’t want to fit. Even before he met up with the American Motor Drome he was literally riding in circles. Charlie was living in California at the time and each morning he’d get on his motorcycle and ride down this straight stretch of road and turn around in a parking lot. He’d then ride back the same straight stretch of road and turn around in a cul de sac at the other end. He’d do this all day, he said. One morning he came across the Motor Drome set up in the middle of the parking lot. He was fascinated by the show and wanted to join. He was told to leave. But Charlie stuck around to help dissemble the Motor Drome’s Wall of Death. Again he was asked to leave, but again Charlie said he wanted to join. His persistence prevailed and he was allowed to tag along and help set up and take down. Finally, he was given the chance to ride. He said it totally overwhelmed him and he’s been performing ever since. I asked Charlie about the future of the Motor Drome. He said it’s been floundering for years. “What keeps the show alive is age asking if he could come along and hang out. Charlie said that Jay Bentley, the owner and builder of the Motor Drome, told Sparky to come back when he was 18. At 19 Sparky showed up at the door and he’s been hanging out with the old guys for over six years; Sparky just turned 25. He’s been learning to ride all the equipment plus figuring out what it takes to make the show go from a commercial standpoint. He can take the whole thing down and put it all up by himself. I asked Charlie if the crew Wahl E. Walker, 63 years of age and going strong. had a lucky charm. Without hesitating he Motor Drome in 1998, the first new one pointed to Mischief, an aging dog laying to be constructed since 1958. Wahl E. wanted so desperately to be a part of the show that he got his tractor trailer license so he could haul the Motor Drome. He’s been touring with the American Motor Drome’s Wall of Death for 16 years. Wahl E. added to what Charlie said: “Time on the wall is time added back onto your life. It keeps you young. Last year I had a heart attack, but today you’d never know it. The Wall keeps me fit. It’s physically and mentally demanding.” Charlie mentioned that “Sparky,” the youngest of the riders, is the future of the Motor Drome. Sparky showed up at the Motor Drome when he was 13 years of Samantha Morgan’s dog Mischief, the American Motor Drome lucky charm. The spirit of Samantha lives on. Sparky J. Lightnin’, said to be “the future of the American Motor Drome.” at our feet. The dog had belonged to Samantha Morgan. Charlie said Mischief keeps the spirit of Samantha alive and close to each of them. Samantha was one of the most accomplished Motor Drome riders ever and was mentored by the great Sonny Pelaquin. She was a runaway at age 11 and lived in several foster homes until she met Sonny at the Dade County Youth Fair. After seeing him in his “Hell on Wheels” Motor Drome, she asked if girls could do this. At 15, pretending she was 18, she became one of Sony Pelaquin’s crew members. Sonny became her quide and taught her the most dangerous tricks, like riding side saddle See Wall of Death, Page 16 Northern Rockies Rider - 16 September 2013 Wall of Death from page 15 (upward split). Charilie told me Samantha often said, “When I am on the Wall I feel free and it’s the only time when all my pains and the pains of this world go away”. doing 50 miles-an-hour and the building begins to move and you flinch when we go by. It’s all adrenaline, it’s alive and that’s something you don’t get from a video game.” If you didn’t make it to Evel Knievel Days and see the American Motor Drome’s “Wall of Death,” their 2013 schedule can be found at <americanwallofdeath.com>. Try to catch up with them, if you can. Imposing American Motor Drome’s “Wall of Death.” How would you like to be in charge of tearing down and setting up? Wall of Death from above. Notice the angled slats to get the riders up onto the wall. In 2006 Samantha was inducted into in the Sturgis Hall Of Fame. “Sam” Morgan Storm passed away April 24, 2008 at 53 at her West Palm Beach farm due to complications from the numerous back injuries and broken bones she sustained in her long illustrious career. She was a pioneer and will remain forever a role model for all motorcycling women. If you’d like to listen to Sam talk about her career and her love affair with the Motor Drome, go to the following site. It will be time well spent. <youtube.com/ watch?v=1KSIIIzzJFg> Charlie and Walh E. are not into the digital age. “I’m an analog man in a digital world,” said Charlie. “The Motor Drome is tangible, it’s all reality. The type of entertainment people are looking for these days is nothing but electronic flips and bits. They want instant gratification in the palm of their hand.” Walh E. added, “The whole ‘gap’ of this place (to use carney speak) is when a 400-pound bike goes past your elbow Motor Dromes are an American original dating back to the early 1900s and the beginnings of motorcycles. The board tracks came first. Some of these ovals were a mile in length with slightly banked corners. Speed was the name of the game and the faster the motorcycles went the banks became ever steeper and higher. Racers would reach speeds in excess of 90 miles per hour on tracks made of twoby-fours laid out end to end. The bikes had no brakes and the spectators had no barriers. Although the tracks were usually used for motorcycle racing, auto racing was quickly added to the venue and by the 1920s most of the American National Championship races were held on board tracks. With spectators looking down onto the track from bleachers at the top of the boards, any loss of control in the turns quickly turned disastrous. The centrifugal force would send both the rider and machine over the top of the track and into the crowd. By the end of 1911 board track speeds had noticeably spiraled upward, due to refinements in engine technology, and as a result banking on the motor dromes was repeatedly increased until 60 degrees became the norm. Often these events were advertised as, “Racing Neck and Neck with Death.” After too many fatalities, the sport was banned. With the demise of board track, racers needed a new challenge so, by eliminating the straight-a-ways and making the wooden track 90 degrees perpendicular to the ground within a wooden drum or barrel shaped track, they began to entertain the public with a new attraction, the Motor Dromes or “Wall of Death.” Rather than racing, the riders performed stunts and often incorporated other acts into the show. By 1915 traveling carnivals were a staple throughout America and the rising popularity of the Motor Drome continued on into the 1950s. With the dawning of the 1960s the sport’s popularity began to wane. As of today only a few “Wall of Death” shows survive. They are the American Motor Drome, the California Hell Riders, and the World Famous Wall of Death. The “Wall of Death,” once a vibrant part of motorcycle history, has its heroes. Below are a few names of ones whom have passed on. Tornado Smith, Iris Stewart, Lucky and Sparky Thibeault, Sonny Pelaquin, Viola Pelaquin, Marjorie Kemp, George Lessard, Cookie Ayers, Alice Brady (the Mile a Minute Girl), Allen “Speedy” Reece, Speedy McNish, Terry Austin, Ronie Decker, Johnny Rotten, Heather Henderson, Samantha Morgan, Patch MeCillicutty and Handle Bar Hank. Tires...Tires...Tires! We are Montana’s Motorcycle Tires HQ! – Now stocking over 400 tires! – Purchase includes mounting & balancing We’ll beat any dealer and are competitive with the Internet. And these are fresh, not out-of-date like at some shops and the Internet. • Tour • Street • Harley & Cruisers • Dual-sport • Off-road Fast! Always same-day, frequently within the hour! 406-556-4644 • 8-5:30 Monday-Friday 22 E. Shawnee Way • Bozeman, MT On Frontage Rd. between the Bear Canyon and Main Street exits off I-90 Call to compare! September 2013 Northern Rockies Rider - 17 Why I ride... Honda Fury has plenty of form but also ample function By Dave Hoffman NR Rider Contributing Writer When I think about cars and motorcycles, certain brands stick out no matter what…and the name Honda is one that does. My first ride on a Honda motorcycle occurred in 1992 when I took a used 1200CC Goldwing for a spin. I bought it, put over 60,000 miles on her in three years and got hooked on Hondas. In my 50 years of riding, I have owned and ridden over 30 bikes, 23 of which were road bikes, the smallest being a 750 Norton and the biggest a 2400 Triumph. I’ve owned and ridden a 250CC Italian made Puch, a used Indian Chief, three Norton’s, two Triumphs, a Harley Fat Boy and two Harley Road Kings, two Honda Valkyrie Tourers (rode them a total of 250,000 dealer-documented miles), Honda VTX 1800 F Sport Tourer, and now the custom Honda Fury chopper. The Fury is a street cruiser bike that has gotten a lot of attention from riders and industry experts alike. Like most of its siblings and predecessors, the Fury is an incredibly well built machine with plenty going for it in terms of engineering and design. In 13,000 miles of riding I’ve averaged between 42 and 54 mile-per-gallon on my Fury. That’s a good thing since you and your Fury are going to have a great time cruising the open road, but will need to stop and fill up with some regularity. I think we all remember those big, long, stretched out chopper bikes of the mid-2000s with weird handling, stupidly raked-out front ends, ridiculously oversized rear tires and ostentatious looks that sold for the price of my house. The Honda Fury is not one of those things. It just happens looks like it is. So it is surprising that Honda – one of the most conservative of all motorcycle manufacturers – has created an Arlen Ness chopper-inspired Fury VTX and It has been finding enthusiastic buyers all around the world. I’ve ridden and she will out pull most of them on any hill and does just as well in the corners. At 71.1 inches, the Fury has the longest wheelbase of any current production Honda. What’s the ride like, you ask? If you’re a shy, retiring sort of motorcycle rider or person, then don’t even think about buying the Fury! It isn’t the bike for you! I almost think I should give her a male name, as this bike is the biggest “chick magnet” I’ve ever ridden. Women of all ages (from young girls to 80-yearolds) are always coming up or rolling down their windows and saying they love the look of my bike. Everywhere I take my Fury, people want to talk about it, sit on it, photograph it or have me take a picture of them by it. Some Any self-respecting cruiser dude will dump the stock exhausts for something with a little more...er, soul. The stodgy factory units (right) have been replaced with sexy Cobras. It doesn’t have the heavy look that so many other “cruisers” have and in truth is very lightweight. Lay one on its side and I believe even the smallest and lightest female rider could pick one up. Honda’s design is intended to visually draw your eyes to the impressive and powerful V-twin engine. The quantities of chrome sitting forward and below the seat draws your eyes straight to it. The sleek black gas tank only helps to enhance the overall visual appeal of the Fury. The handlebars are set low enough to allow for fast riding, while still providing a very comfortable position for those long drives. I have put 13,000 miles on mine in one riding season. The V-twin is paired with a smooth five-speed transmission and shaft drive that is able to handle anything that I’ve ever thrown at it. The gas tank, which only holds 3.2 gallons of fuel, adds to the chopper look and feel. The Fury, a factory chopper from across the Pacific, would look good just about anywhere, so the beach is a suitable setting. Author Dave Hoffman. Combine this with its skinny front Dunlop Elite III tire and it does feel a bit vague at speeds below 10 mph so you will need to watch your turning in some parking lots. The raked out front end will require some time behind the bars for some riders to learn low-speed maneuvering. I quickly adapted and mastered the Fury’s low speed handling in a couple of short rides in an empty parking lot. I recommend this. Out on the open road, the rake and thin tire combination gave me a little bit of a vague steering feel at anything under 15 mph. It gets into its stride between 15 and 110 mph. Beyond that and the front end gets light unless you weigh over 200 pounds. It is one of the sweetest handling bikes I have ridden in the last 50 years. It doesn’t flop down in the corners like you would expect a chopper-style bike to See Honda Fury, Page 28 Hot Springs Convention Center - Thermopolis WY Host Hotel for the Wyoming State H.O.G. Rally 2013 Great Couples Getaway even ask me to be in the picture! I find most Harley riders will wander over and talk for an hour about the Fury. Their first remark usually is, “What the hell is that?” or “Who the hell makes that?” Looks aside, the Honda Fury is also a surprisingly nice bike to ride. The big V-twin vibrates very little at idle and the dual counter-balancers prevent vibrations from becoming objectionable. Once I swung my leg over and sat down on the ultra low seat it actually all made sense. It’s such an easy bike to ride and slap into turns. It is the best handling “chopper/cruiser” I’ve ever ridden. I love the ride far more than any of the Harleys Safari Club Restaurant & Lounge Come Enjoy our “Hot Water Holiday” Great Food - Relaxing Atmosphere Full Bar - Come view our unique big game trophy collection! • Two night stay • Prime Rib Dinner for Two • Complimentary champagne • Two passes to Hot Springs County Museum • Two discount coupons to the Wyoming Dinosaur Center Year Round Outdoor Mineral Hot Tub - Health Spa - Private Hot Tubs and Steam Room - Licensed Masseuse on Premise - Free Wi-fi Free Continental Breakfast - Activities for All! Days Inn - 115 East Park - Thermopolis, Wy 82443 307-864-3131 • www.thermopolisdaysinn.com Northern Rockies Rider - 18 September 2013 Testy Fest: 31 years of fried testicles and fun By Dani Collins-Rollison NR Rider Staff Writer “rumble”…”rumble”…down-shifting… bikes to show up for the “Best Bike Contest.” These riders rode in and paid So here is the truth: I don’t ride a their gate fee, simply to be in the contest. motorcycle, I don’t get naked anymore There were some damn nice bikes! The (in public) – but I do go to the Testicle event coordinators reserved an area this Festival. I look at motorcycles and I watch year for motorcycles only. It helped keep people, and I eat deep-fried testicles. the active crowd from touching hardware I love this thing! and also helped the judges keep track of Last year was the 30th anniversary of what bikes were in the contest. the Testy Fest. I spent three days at the The one that earned the “Testy Festy event, selling “Motorcycling Montana” Best Bike” award was owned by Diane books and handing out copies of Muscroft from Grand Forks, British Northern Rockies Rider. I also covered Columbia. The first thing I heard this many crazy activities and met some energetic lady say was, “My husband just got done painting it!” The Miss Testy Fest Contest was interesting! There were many participants that had to go through a series of “unMiss America” type of drills in order to win. One of the most interesting parts of this contest were the two beautiful Testy Festy Best Bike winner 2013, Diane Muscroft on her 2011 H-D young ladies Street Glide. She wanted it to be noted that she always rides with who appeared gear; she was not riding on this day. to be twins, but maybe people I am still in contact with today. just sisters. One of them made it into the This year I attended only as a spectator finals. and photographer, and just for one day. A gorgeous proud grandma almost The 31st annual Testy Fest was conducted took the top honor but as it turned out July 31-Aug. 4 this year. a young lady from Hamilton, Mont., I showed up just in time for all the Jill Godfrey, took home the “Miss Testy Jill Godfrey with her proud husband, Jason. She earned “Miss Testy Fest 2013.” Festy” title this year. In the background the DJ or music could be heard at all times. The DJ, “Bionic,” keeps the events moving. His clever and witty (sometimes bawdy) personality and patter keeps the crowd engaged to the maximum fun level. The Ball Eating DJ “Bionic” entertaining Contest festival goers at the wet T-shirt contest on Saturday this year afternoon. was won by Matt Powers, one of the Testy Festy coordinators and owners of the Rock Creek Lodge. Matt was the “Ball Eating” champion for five of the last eight years, including this year. There were many other contests to attend, but one of the biggest crowd pleasers is always the Undie 500. This event Matt Powers, 2013 is simply winner of the “Ball hilarious! Eating” contest, now Contestants five-time winner. must participate in their underwear (or a swimsuit), ride tricycles with terrible steering characteristics while chugging large cans of beer. Saturday they had two heats of the Undie 500. Once again, the live music venue was very popular with the crowd. This year’s bands were Midstokke, VooDoo Horseshoes, My Fist Your Face, High Voltage, Boston Tea Party and A Lein Nation. There was also a company called “Think Piece Productions” at the Testy Festy 2013. They specialize in live event recording, music videos and documentaries. Check out YouTube and find the event when it is posted. You may see yourself! (<YouTube.com/ ThinkPieceProduction>.) The last activity I attended was the Wet T-Shirt Contest(s). There were two See Testy Fest, Page 19 Opinion...Protecting their customers and learning more every year Dani Collins-Rollison NRR Staff Writer It is really too bad, but a lot of events like the Testicle Festival get a negative reputation simply because of the nature of the activities that make them fun to start with. This isn’t about whether or not you agree with these types of events. If you are offended easily, don’t go. It’s pretty simple. Of course some people are offended simply knowing others are having fun. I have been a part of numerous events in the past 30 years, whether as a spectator, organizer or reporter. I am totally impressed with how the owners of the Rock Creek Lodge and their organizers make every effort possible to ensure the safety of everyone that comes through the gate. I went by myself this year to cover the event and I had complete and 100 percent confidence that I would be just fine. I suffered no fear of being “raped or pillaged” or any other horrid thing that people imagine could happen to me. A lot of folks that are hosting motorcycle events could learn from this venue, simply by attending it and observing it themselves. All weapons are checked at the gate and nobody is allowed to bring in any outside alcohol. They do check your whole vehicle, campers included. The weapon-check is self-evident, but the restriction on outside alcohol is important. Bartenders and waiters/waitresses need to be able to monitor the amount of alcohol that somebody has consumed. A free shuttle back and forth from Missoula, 20 miles west, is provided. There is absolutely no reason to drive after drinking. People have the ability to plan ahead and not have to worry about leaving their vehicle at the event if they partake of a few or are simply too tired to be safe on the highway. Workers at the gate are happy to help folks get to their campsite if they are staying across the road at “The Airport.” I have personally witnessed and benefited from this practice. I think the most impressive aspect to me is the security team. I really can’t say enough good things about these guys in pink. They are not big, brooding, tattoo-covered bad boys scanning the crowd with a scowl. Each one of these young men train with Matt Powers at the Dog Pound Fight Team in Missoula. (Matt and his wife, Nel-Lani, own the Rock Creek Lodge where the annual event is held.) They are trained to subdue opponents without injury, unless unavoidable. Each one of the security team members has a calm demeanor, but they are always watching for the most subtle signs that trouble might be brewing. If it starts, they are right there and handle it with finesse. They are never mean; they are firm but decent. They do everything they possibly can to defuse a situation without removing somebody from the event, yet sometimes they have to...and they do. The point is: there is no use having an angry bouncer trying to remove an unruly patron. Nobody wins. I have watched the servers suggest a switch to water, instead of just handing over another drink. I have heard them suggest it’s time to get something to eat. They really are trying to take care of their patrons. Have bad things happened at, or after, this event or any other? Yes, they have, and there will always be the few people that have to do the wrong thing no matter how earnest of an attempt is made to save them from themselves. But, bad things happen night after night in every town in the world. I visited with Matt Powers at the event and he was pleased with how well things were going. He said, “No fights in years...no major problems this year (and he crossed his fingers), so far anyway. I am happy with it!” When I sent him a message last night asking how it all turned out, his reply was simply “Safe and well.” I like that! I placed a call to Jared Spiker, who handles most of the event organizing duties for the Testy Festy. He said he feels good about all the progress they have made over the years helping to ensure that the event is safe. “We have not had a big fight in seven years,” he told me. “Also, about 10 years ago there were 30, maybe 40 DUI’s given on the highway during the event. Now there is maybe one or two, and we don’t even know if these people were at the Testy Festy or traveling through. We are pretty proud of the progress we have made.” He also told me that they are also working with Montana Rail Link to keep people off the railroad tracks. There are many trains passing immediately next to the Rock Creek Lodge grounds. People like to cross the tracks to get to the river and cool off, but it isn’t safe. The event is only insured for what happens on the property itself, but they are glad to be working with Rail Link to keep any accidents from happening. And by the way, the motorcyclists seem to be some of the most well behaved and friendly patrons there. They like to say, “Bikers police themselves,” and it seems to be true. This isn’t the old Hollywood myth where a bunch of bad-ass bikers show up and trash the place. Just sayin’... September 2013 Northern Rockies Rider - 19 Billings was 2013 destination for 27th Women on Wheels ‘Ride In’ What’s your definition of... “a perfect ride” Stunning mountain, forest, river and lake scenery? Remote, peaceful riding with few cages? Good asphalt with tons of turns? Roadways designed by engineers who knew what they were doing? Small communities with all the amenities? Businesses with character run by characters? Affordability? Women on Wheels (and some men) filled the banquet hall at the Billings Hotel. By Cris Baldwin, President Board of Trustees Women On Wheels all! We came from near and far, 35 states in Members of Women On Wheels, an organization for female motorcycling enthusiasts, conducted our 27th International Ride-In in Billings, Mont., July 9-11. The Ride-In, the organization’s premiere annual social event, travels to different locations around the country. This year was the first time the event was held in Montana. Nearly 300 women riders, passengers, nonriders, future riders and their male support members enjoyed “motorcycle-friendly” roads and ventured near and far to the many tourist sites and Testy Fest from page 18 categories again this year. There was the 34-and-under, and a 35-and-over contest. This one always gets the crowd going, Kermit welcomed the women, and Schuberth helmets was there to pitch their upscale hats. breathtaking views before, during and after the event. The citizens of Billings were wonderful hosts. The staff at the Billings Hotel and Convention Center made sure we felt well cared for and welcome. is Tareena Hardy and she is from Idaho Falls, Idaho. She seemed a little shy afterwards, but she definitely earned her title. Throughout the crowd, you can always see flashes of pink. These are the pink T-shirts worn by the Testy Festy Security Team. These guys are everywhere, fit and well trained, Winner of 35-and-over wet T-shirt contest Saturday, Tareena Hardy, pictured with her man, Cody Storer. Contestants in the first heat with one of the Testy Festy security guys and the DJ. especially the males that are there with the well-worn chant, “Take it off!” Some of the younger guys were especially vocal in urging on their favorite. They all did “take it off ” of course, and the crowd went wild. Even the train coming through on the Montana Rail Link line shared in the enthusiasm and the whistle was heard over the crowd. Good job girls! I managed to catch up with the winner of the 35-and-older contest. Her name preventing trouble before it gets out of control. They are all decent guys and helpful to anybody who has questions. They are also “Tough Enough to Wear Pink” and can handle any problem that comes their way. The bartenders and cocktail waitresses were also crowd pleasers. They looked fine and did an excellent job keeping up with the many thirsty folks. There was even a scantily clad male waiter this year serving delectable concoctions to the crowd. There were many vendors and many more contests at Testy Festy 2013. For a full list of events and winners, check out: <testyfesty.com>. Kameron Messmer “mesmerized” us with his magic at the opening ceremony. Many members enjoyed a trolley tour of the city’s landmark destinations offered by the Billings Trolley and Bus Company. Beartooth Harley-Davidson-Buell hosted an exceptional Bike Night with a barbecue, bike wash, boot shine and policeescorted parade ride of 149 motorcycles through downtown Billings. A dozen members even traded a few hours on their “iron horses” for the scenic horseback trail rides offered by Bitter Creek Outfitters. Guest speaker/seminar leader, Tamela Rich, seminars, carnival games, raffle items, door prizes, vendors and goody bag items (donated by the Billings Chamber of Commerce, Montana Office of Tourism and Friends of Beartooth All-American Road) all came together to ensure that the event was a huge success. Thank you, Montana and Billings! For more information about Women On Wheels, visit <womenonwheels,org> or <facebook.com/womenonwheels1> Riders rounding a curve on the Flowery Trail between Chewelah and Ione, described by Northern Rockies Rider magazine as “perhaps the best motorcycle route in all of Washington.” Photo by Susan Swan, Ione, Wash. Ahhhh...the Pend Oreille! We have it all! Northeast Washington’s finest motorcycling! • Metaline Falls • Metaline • Ione • Tiger • Cusick • Usk • Newport Please be our guests. Come ride the Pend Oreille Country. Bring your friends. You’ll come back again and again. It just doesn’t get any better! Sponsored by the Pend Oreille River Tourism Alliance whose purpose is to create a responsible tourism economy in the Pend Oreille River Community in ways sensitive to the culture, heritage and environment of the region. www.porta-us.com 509.447.5286 Northern Rockies Rider - 20 September 2013 My crash: ‘I knew what to do, but I crashed anyway’ By Stacey “Ax” Axmaker, Director Idaho STAR Motorcycle Safety Program boat handling techniques, and what to do when things start to go wrong. Again, much like a motorcycle riding course. People (riders and non-riders alike) One of the “what to do when things will often talk about a crash in a similar go wrong” techniques was to move to way: “Oh, that rider didn’t know how the downstream side of the boat when to corner/brake/balance/etc. That’s why your boat gets stuck on a rock (and they crashed.” stops). This The keeps the assumption upstream seems to side of the Stacey “Ax” Axmaker be that if boat light and Director Idaho STAR the rider allows the flow Motorcycle Safety had more of the river Program knowledge to easily go (how to use under it. the front brake If you keep assertively, your weight how to press on the handgrip to increase on the upstream side of the boat, the lean, etc.), the crash would not have flow of the river is likely to catch the side happened. of the boat, swamp it and flip it upside In the following, I will suggest that down, putting you in the water. We this is not the case. practiced this maneuver several times Here is my story of a crash – a crash until we could all do it correctly and on the river in an inflatable boat. In 2006, my wife and I wanted to spend some time on the river. So, we signed up for a beginner level kayak class. The class was an entire weekend of time in the water. We started with some briefing, then we got in a very quickly. calm lake, then on a pretty calm river, Think of it like learning how then the next day progressed to more to swerve to avoid an obstacle in a challenging water. motorcycle rider training course. This follows a very similar pattern to Overall, a good weekend that left us motorcycle rider training in a “learn to feeling comfortable and confident on ride” class. the water. Following the class, we went It was a good class and the on the river just a few times a year and instructors did a fine job of covering enjoyed very “event-free” times. safety apparel, safety procedures, basic Fast forward to 2008. It’s now been two years since we took our training, and our boating time was very calm and relaxing. Being calm and relaxing, we hadn’t practiced any of our “what to do when things go wrong” techniques since we had finished the class. One day as we were floating the Boise River past the county fairgrounds, the boat started to follow a current toward the river bank and right toward the roots of a large tree! We tried to paddle out of the current and get back in the middle of the river but the current was too strong and, before we knew it, the boat had stopped right up against the roots. Somehow, my wife made it quickly off the boat and into the tree. I remember thinking to myself, “Oh, I know what to do. When the boat gets stuck, move to the downstream side of the boat so it doesn’t flip upside down.” The problem is that I had to think it through before acting because I hadn’t actually done it in over two years. By the time I got to “When the boat…” in my thoughts, I was already flipped out of the boat and under the water, fighting the current and stuck in the roots of the tree. See Crashed, Page 21 Learn how to “Ride your Ride” like a pro! Take an Advanced RiderCourse • Get the most out of your bike • Maximize turning and braking abilities • Obstacle Avoidance The problem is that I had to think it through before acting because I hadn’t actually done it in over two years. • Make safety a priority in your ride Group and club rates available For more information 1-800-922-BIKE http://motorcycle.msun.edu Registration opens March 1, 2013 MSUN ARC Ad.indd 1 7/28/11 9:20 AM September 2013 Northern Rockies Rider - 21 “Wyoming Whiskey “ bike unveiled Wyo H.O.G. members converge on Thermopolis for 20th rally By Dani Collins-Rollison NR Rider Staff Writer Thermopolis was the destination chosen for the 20th Anniversary of the Wyoming H.O.G. Rally which was conducted July 11-13. The Days Inn of Thermopolis was the host hotel. The event coordinators said they are “extremely pleased” with the event this year. NR Rider talked to Jenni Dorman from the Days Inn, who was also one of the coordinators of the event. We asked her for a wrap up on the rally. Her first comment was, “The rally was a huge success! We had two VIPs from Harley-Davidson and oh my, were they impressed! I have been asked to have a rally every year now!” It seems it’s true. This was the biggest rally for Wyoming H.O.G. in the 20 years they have had the event, NR Rider was told. The numbers speak for themselves. They had 306 register for the rally and over 100 walk-ins. Thermopolis Mayor Bill Maloy welcomed everyone at the opening ceremony. A biker parade preceded the ceremony with about 200 bikes Attendees of the Wyoming State HOG Rally gather at the Wyoming Whiskey Distillery in Kirby, Wyoming for a Meet & Greet. The event included tours of the distillery and sampling of Wyoming’s very own born and aged bourbon. Inset, Kip Attaway performs for event goers and locals alike. Crashed from page 20 Yep – if that were on a motorcycle, it would be called crashing. Since it was in the river, they just called it “being strained.” (In case you were worried, I did manage to get free. I joined my wife in the tree. I’d love to tell you how I did it, but I’m honestly not sure how it happened. Perhaps it was my lucky day. Good thing I got out; if I had drowned down there, my wife would have killed me!) My point is, I had the knowledge needed to prevent that crash. I got trained, I did it right in class and even passed all their tests. However, I did not practice that skill, so when “the moment Beginning of the parade headed to the opening ceremony. Inset, raising of the flag for the national anthem. participating. Jenni presented the key to the city to the Wyoming H.O.G. Rally Committee President Eric Keys. This was followed with the Bike Parade of Lights. The event also had poker runs, a bike show, the always-popular bike games and a Kip Attaway concert. There was an AMDA Bike Wash that raised over $900 for their cause. Wyoming Whiskey, from Kirby, Wyo., was also involved, giving out free samples of their “born and aged” bourbon, and offering tours of the plant. One of the biggest hits of the three day event was when Chuck Deluxe (Deluxe HarleyDavidson) unveiled the “Wyoming Whiskey” bike. There were about 10 vendors present. They offered lights, pin-striping, tattoos, patches, bandanas, clothing, jewelry and leathers. Vendors traveled from Minnesota, California, Texas, Arizona, Nebraska and Colorado. Of course there were also Wyoming vendors in attendance and many Thermopolis locals selling their crafts. Jenni said the people who drove the farthest was a couple that came all the way from West Virginia. There was another that of truth” came, I did not perform. Many motorcycle riders have had this same experience. They took a class, passed all the tests, and then never practiced. The moment of truth came and they were not as prepared as they could have been. Now don’t get me wrong. My career is in motorcycle safety and rider training – I believe in it. Taking a rider training course is not a magic pill. It is also not the only way to learn skills. However, it is a good start. Whether you started by learning from a friend, were self-taught or took a class, please practice braking, serving and cornering regularly. I don’t want any of you to end up under the water stuck in the roots. Ride well, ride lots. I also believe in exercise and vitamins, but if you only exercise one day or take vitamins for a week, there is essentially no long term benefit. (On a side note, the positive effects of bathing don’t last either, but we still recommend it daily!) – About Stacey “Ax” Axmaker: He is the director of Idaho STAR. He took his first rider training course in 1991, was teaching shortly after and has been ever since. He has worked as a mentor instructor since 1994 and served as the Operations Manager for the TEAM OREGON motorcycle safety program from 1997 to 2002. He was one of the four individuals who developed the Basic Rider Training (BRT) curriculum, and has been active in new instructor training as well as designing and delivering mentor/leadership training for instructors. He also was the STAR Program Training Manager from 2006 through 2008. “Ax” serves on the Idaho Traffic Safety Commission and is chair of the Idaho State Highway Safety Plan Motorcycle Safety Committee. He also holds a volunteer position with Motorcycle Riders Foundation Awareness and Education. “Ax” currently rides a 1997 Honda Valkyrie tourer. traveled from Michigan to participate. Jenni said, “Many people told me this rally was going to be hard to beat! The rally next year is in Alpine, but I am proposing Thermopolis again for 2015.” Watch the Wyoming H.O.G. website for further details: <wystatehogrally. com>. Don’t ride like a kid! Take a Basic RiderCourse Quit Dreaming, Come Ride! • For riders with little or no experience • Refresh your skills if you have experience • Motorcycles provided • Helments provided Group and club rates available Registration opens March 1, 2013 For more information 1-800-922-BIKE http://motorcycle.msun.edu MSUN ARC Ad.indd 1 MSUN ARC Ad.indd 1 7/28/11 9:20 AM Northern Rockies Rider - 22 July 2013 Learning curve Long-distance endurance rally: plan your work, work your plan By Cole Boehler Entering the Big Sky “Into The Unknown” 32-hour motorcycle rally had crossed my mind. I had the right bike, but I was the wrong driver. Who then? A young acquaintance seemed a good candidate: he’s very bright and well educated, a techno-geek, an engineer who likes to make things and owns and operates a business which does this, was already an extreme outdoors sports enthusiast in seemingly prime physical condition, and rides extreme motorcycles, in this case a Suzuki GSX-R 750 repurposed as a dual-sport running knobby tires. In addition, he enjoys KettleHouse Brewing’s “Cold Smoke” Scottish ale, a favorite of mine as well. I made the proposition and he quickly said, “I can do that.” Both of us had second thoughts and misgivings, but neither was going to back down. It was clear we had the right machine: a 2005 Yamaha FJR 1300. Five of the top six finishers in the 2013 Iron Butt Rally – over 11,000 miles in 11 days – were aboard FJRs, all 2005s and 2006s. The first step, obviously, was to acknowledge that we would have to work with a limited budget. Step Two: identify all that we would need in the way of supplies, accessories, expertise with wiring and prep, software and so on. Step Three: enlist help with procuring goods and for bike prep. Finally, with list in hand, we devised a timeline working backward from the completion of the rally to the present. We grouped our list like this: Necessary: Fresh tires, tire repair kit and pump, tool kit, documents case, seat pad, (revised/adjusted) throttle lock, high-output bulbs for stock headlights, highoutput L.E.D. auxiliary driving lights, highway cruising pegs, frame sliders, heated grips, heated vest, GPS, tracking device/software, radar detector, phone, iPod, laptop, USB chargers and wiring, cameras, flashlights, spare keys, hydration system, clear plastic cleaner and so on. Then we added the following: Bike service: Clean and lube controls and cables, fresh oil, oil filter and final drive lube, air and fuel filters, inspect spark plugs and wires, test battery, inspect, lube and adjust steering head bearings, and inspect/correct weeping right fork seal. Rider apparel: Heated vest, helmet, boots, gloves (three weights), armored leather jacket, armored mesh jacket, armored pants with liner, balaclava/helmet liner, riding-specific underwear, sunglasses (two). Personal supplies: Toothbrush/paste, prescription meds(?), sun screen, skin lotions, eye drops, body powder, vitamins, OTC pain meds. Rider food/beverage: Water, GatorAde, jerky, energy bars, granola, peanuts, peanut butter, P & J sandwiches (more later). Luggage: Side cases, top box, tail pack, tank bag. Then, this heading: Desired (but not necessary): Tire pressure monitoring system, 90-degree valve stems, voltage meter/monitor, Baker Air Wings. Step Three meant talking to Matt Krsul who, with his wife Kim, owns and operates Two Wheelz, a motorcycle sales and service outfit in Butte, Mont. Matt’s four decades of expertise and work quality are well known and highly regarded. Before we did this, I drew up a two-page formal proposal and set up an appointment with Matt. I laid out our thinking regarding supplies, accessories, service and installation work required. Matt readily, enthusiastically, agreed to all our concepts, including his role in bike service and prep, accessories procurement and installation. I don’t think the beers I brought to the meeting actually helped persuade him. I also asked Matt if he could offer an endorsement of the project when it came to making an approach to wholesale suppliers, seeking their help with acquiring accessories. He agreed to this, too, and indeed put in a good work for us with Dave Bunger, long-time Matt Krsul, left, the bike guru and owner of Two Wheelz, and Sam Tucker Rocky rep for this area who was on the Park, the man who will ride the ITU 32-hour long-distance rally, prepping the machine. Kim Krsul photo verge of retirement, and with John Ellingson, who would be filling Bunger’s shoes. Matt also worked on our behalf with Western Power bike prep and readiness for a launch at 5:30 a.m. Sports. Weather was predicted to hit a high of 92 ... and it Our timeline commenced Tuesday, July 16, with did. an oil change for the rally bike (we had just put fresh Saturday, July 20, I was pleased when I stepped Michelin out of my door at 5:10 a.m. that morning and Sam Pilot Road had just stepped out of his pickup. I was even more tires on fore pleased when I glanced at the clock as we rolled down and aft). the driveway and saw ... 5:30 on the nose! Good! Sam The test run revealed what it needed to (we’re picked the being a little coy here) and was deemed a complete bike up the success. We were on the road for 16 hours. Sam said next day, he now felt suspension settings are dialed in ideally. July 17, for I met with Sam a few days later, July 23, to clean some local the bikes and do a close examination and refinement test rides to begin sorting and setting suspension, and to start thinking about electronics Matt Krsul remained calm and cheerful, and their even as time dwindled, the Internet wiring, went down for two days, and parts and connectors, accessories were arriving at the last controls minute. Kim Krsul photo and mounting, and fabricating accessories mounts where necessary. The second item on the timeline was to show it to Matt to get his approval of our thinking, which we did the evening of July 17. We downloaded a toolkit list from the Iron Butt Association, which is overkill for our baby 32-hour rally. We present the Shortly after our 9:30 p.m. return. Editor Boehler, left, ran list to Matt who said to leave toolkit assembly to him. 817 miles, rider Park topped 1K. Marilyn Irey Photo Excellent! We also ordered an Airhawk seat pad that day to of systems and our thinking – a post mortem of our augment the Corbin on the rally bike. test ride. July 18 frame sliders were ordered directly Sam wanted better control of heat/cold airflow from T-Rex Racing (they arrived July 22). Sam surrounding the engine and operator. He ordered a fabricated aluminum driving light mounts that will set of Baker Built Air Wings. He’d seen them in use also accommodate an accessories mounting shelf to on another rally bike and figured they might be worth reside above the bike’s instrument panel. These were the investment. installed using existing mirror mounts. These attach to the fairing sides with screws or July 19 Grip Puppies soft handgrip covers were stout double-sided tape, with the potential to direct ordered from California Sport Touring (they arrived warm airflow from the engine bay onto the rider in July 24). cold situations, or direct cool air toward the rider Sam and I met at my garage that night to load and (and hot engine air away) during hot circumstances. fiddle with the rally bike and one I would ride the He ordered these directly from the manufacturer next day in our first test run. We tried to simulate which graciously offered our LD effort a discount: rally conditions in terms of our packing, supplies, $84 including shipping, whereas they would regularly July 2013 Our first shake-down run, daytime, 12 hours and 1,021 miles, mapping courtesy of FollowMee. Northern Rockies Rider - 23 we hit the bike’s high beam, we go to full power on the stock headlights and the L.E.D.s. We deliver the bike and accessories on hand to Matt at Two Wheelz. Sam is there to discuss the electronics array, connections and wiring. Thursday and Friday, Aug. 8-9, Internet service goes down at Two Wheelz, throwing the shop schedule and usual efficiency into disarray. Parts orders, work schedules, etc. are necessarily delayed. I am not yet panicking. Tuesday, Aug. 13, Sam meets with Matt afterhours to further refine accessories array connections and mounting. Fabricated dash shelf is to be ready the next day. Baker Air Wings are mounted. Wednesday, Aug. 14, we take a few photos of the work progress and accessories installations. Matt reports bike service is complete, new Pirelli Angel GT skins are on the wheels. L.E.D. lights are connected and mounted, with the controller still to be integrated. The 12-volt sockets are wired to power a radar detector, one will host a dual USB charger connection. GPS is plumbed into the Battery Tender pigtail. Matt reports the leads provided for the First Gear heated jacket liner are of insufficient length for our purposes. He orders an extension. Will it be here in time for our August 17 night test? I’m hit with a pang of worry. He is working on the project nights and now during regular business hours, too. See Long Distance, Page 24 sell at $102 with shipping additional. They arrived Pirelli Angel GTs (single compound front, dual July 25. Thanks to Baker Built Company! compound rear) through Boise-based Western Power July 25, we talked with our supplier allies Sports, with the help of WPS representative Larry regarding what, if any, help they could offer. All necessary supplies and accessories were to be on hand or ordered at this time. Tucker Rocky’s Ellingson said he thought he could help with the heated jacket liner. July 25-29, the bike is taken into Washington for an 800-mile tour. I find all is working well and like Sam’s suspension set-up – no weave in hard, lumpy turns and less front dive under heavy braking. July 29, we heard from Greayer Clover at Biker’s Choice, a Tucker Rocky wholesale affiliate, who said he could make available a First Gear-branded (Warm & Safe-built) full heated jacket liner with a “Heat-Troller” control unit and wiring harness. This is a Cadillac. We sent them Sam’s size requirements. The First Gear liner and Heat-Troller arrived Aug. 5. It fit. Thanks Dave, John, Greayer, Tucker Rocky and Biker’s Choice! The wiring begins: heated grips and switch, heated jacket liner and controller, L.E.D. Sam picked up the bike July 31 to begin design of forward highway cruising flood and spot lights and controller, power sources for GPS and radar detector, two foot pegs and mounts, and to fabricate USB charging ports for phone, iPod, laptop. and install the accessories dash shelf. Still no answer as to help with accessory L.E.D. driving lights. (Aug. 7 the notion of forward foot pegs is abandoned – too much work, too Hamilton. little time.) We did the research and WYOMING CENTENNIAL SCENIC BYWAY Monday, Aug. 5, Matt e-mails and says he was were assured the Pirellis unable to source a set of “test/evaluation” Michelins will work and work well. PATH OF THE PRONGHORN tires, but that he would be able to secure a set of Thanks Two Wheelz, Larry ICONIC SKYLINE DRIVE TO ELKHART PARK Hamilton and Western Power Sports! Tuesday, August 6, we have been unable to source low-to-no-cost driving lights so finally wrangle a 10 percent discount from ADVmonster for a Cree L.E.D. Model 60 flood (3,600 lumens), a Cree L.E.D. Model 30 spot (1,500 lumens), and a rotary dimmer control with high-beam bypass. Bar Hours (They arrived four days Sunday Thru Thursday 10am-12am • Friday & Saturday 10am-2am later, Aug. 10, from Happy Hour Daily From 5pm to 6pm Florida! Exemplary service! Thanks, John Sanders, at Buy 1 get 1 free ADVmonster!) With the rotary dimmer, we should be able to run the L.E.D.s at 25 or 30 New Pirelli Angel GT dual-compound rear gets balanced. 214 East Main Street • Sundance, WY 82729 percent power while on the Park said the Angels were “sticky” and worked very well, bike’s low beam, then when even during three hours of nighttime rain. Kim Krsul photo 209 N Main Buffalo, WY 307.684.7822 Mention this ad and receive 15% off room rate Longhorn Liquors Bikers Welcome Etta’s Place - Lunch & Dinner Menu Available 307-283-3644 Northern Rockies Rider - 24 September 2013 Long Distance from page 23 However, I am strangely confident Matt will pull a rabbit out of the hat. We are to pick up the bike Friday, Aug. 16 and are planning a shakedown all-night ride Aug. 17 for pit before a race and mechanics and pit crew are working frantically to get all ready before race time. We are no different, apparently. But I can see the rabbit’s head peaking out of the hat. We pick up the bike at 5 p.m. and Sam takes it to his shop to install the shelf and mount accessories, switches and controllers Aug. 17, time for the night test run. Sam arrives at my house at 7:30 p.m. I have prepared a route for him with 22 waypoints with a “bonus” to document at each one. He enters the coordinates in his GPS in about 20 minutes. We mount hard side cases and top box and secure a textile tail-bag to the pillion. Sam rolls down my driveway at 8:30 p.m. My wife and I have dinner and watch a movie during which I fall asleep. But I’m up at 3 a.m. checking Sam’s progress with the FollowMee app. It’s Night test route - 726 miles from Butte to West Yellowstone to Harlowton to Kings Hill and back. The Cree L.E.D. flood lamp sourced from ADV Monster. Factory mount and our design proved to need rethinking as light pods would not stay aimed. Sam. We must test all of our systems and especially work on optimal alignment of the driving lights. Aug. 16, I stop at Two Wheelz for a status report. Krsul says all is wired. The accessories shelf won’t be ready until tonight. Looks like all the switching and accessories mounting will take place this evening and tomorrow, just hours before our last window of opportunity to do a night test run. The extension for the heated jacket liner is expected to arrive today. Fingers are crossed. (It arrived and was put into service). Anyone who competes in motorsports knows this is the way it always happens. Why? Visit any Sam Park prepares to mount for a night test: 8:30 p.m. to 11:15 a.m. working well. I check again about 4 a.m., then 5, 6 and then every half hour or so until he rolls up my driveway at 11:15. He looks fairly fresh and alert: 726 miles in 14 hours and 45 minutes. The bike has been moving for 12 hours and 14 minutes. He tells me he attempted sleep about 3:30 in a barrow pit but wind and rain meant poor quality of rest. He also stopped for a good “biker’s breakfast” about 8 a.m. The rest of the “stopped” time was used in documenting “bonuses.” Sam reported a “wild” three-hour thunderstorm with lightning 360 degrees around and plenty of wind and rain that lasted until sun up. He also said the night was very black – “no stars, no moon... It was like riding inside a pipe.” Good practice, I think. Sam said on the roadway he saw a couple of raccoons, many rabbits and just one deer, which was after daylight and not a close encounter. Fuel was not an issue, with one exception: he rolled into White Sulphur springs about 8 a.m. with perhaps a long quart of petrol in the tank, perhaps 10 or 15 miles of range before empty. He said the Western Powersports-sourced Pirelli Angel GTs worked very well –” sticky” – with the bike’s handling sharp, even during three hours of rain. See Long Distance, Page 25 September 2013 Northern Rockies Rider - 25 Long Distance from page 23 smoke blotted out the waxing moon and all starlight. Winding down the hill into Ennis was like driving down a sewer pipe. “Later, I stopped to stretch my legs while reading In all, another successful test. All the equipment and installations worked well, save for light mounting which will be reworked in the next couple of days, and the Baker Air Wings, which departed the bike within the first hour; a wrong mounting decision. I file this story and pictures, 56 hours after deadline, as patient and understanding page designers are ready and waiting. We’re on the press in four days and the ITU starts in just under six. We are ready and can hardly wait. Sam e-mails some pictures and a note shortly after noon: the road side sign expounding on the myth and naming of the Crazy Mountains, but beyond the headlights of the bike, there was only blackness and wind. Just beyond the white lines, on the left and right shoulders, the world ended. “The inky pipe didn’t end until I near the lights of Harlowton, where the lightning began... and then the sea of synchronized flashing red lights marking the masts of the wind turbines just beyond Judith Gap. “Blackness, then brilliant red lights in every direction. I stand up (while cruising along at 70 mph) to survey their eerie extents. ‘Everywhere’... ‘when did “Hi, Cole, “I apologize, when you were asking questions I could have provided a little more material ... A little rummy. “Bonus” locations: (1) Bank Bar in Wilsall, (2) Kings Hill “Just north of West Yellowstone there Summit and (3) Fishtail Tavern in Townsend. Sam Park was some kind of major wreck... lots of photos ambulances, police, fire apparatus and road flares. It was hard not to think of my mortality as I manually switched off the auxiliary driving lights and threaded the bike through a sea of flashing lights and road flares. No idea what happened. “I took pictures from odd angles at the ‘bonus bars’ to avoid interacting with the patrons spilling into the street 12 p.m. to 2 a.m. I had good music going in my helmet, and was not interested in unplugging to explain why I was documenting the Blue Anchor or Bank Bar at night using a camera without a flash... “With extreme care I was able to eat jerky and dried apricots without munching my inner cheek. A moment’s lapse of attention and it would take miles for the bleeding to stop. A hard lesson I learned on that first 1,000-mile (test) run. “Just after Virginia City a light cloud cover and the they build all these’... Then blackness. The odometer rolls another tenth. Then red dots... “ “’Focus on the road, dammit,” I remind myself. The rain drops beading on my face shield begin to run down my neck. I sit back down. Turn up the heat to the vest. ‘At least the turbines offer some protection from the lightening,’ I think... “Not sure if that gets across what was going through my head during bits of the trip...” Yes, it does. Most scenic rides in the Black Hills for Custer Cruisin’ Iron Mountain Road Needles Highway Wildlife Loop Road Hell Canyon • Shopping • Restaurants • Lodging Close to Mt. Rushmore, Crazy Horse Memorial, Custer State Park Night test was completed at 11:15 Sunday morning, another complete success. Sam, 25 feet from the end. tes! a d 14 0 2 for h , c nfo i om Wat e or in.c uisom r c .c er ust tersd For t visi c m s @cu 2-9818 o f in 99 800- Northern Rockies Rider - 26 September 2013 Trip of a lifetime was superb, even if two-up By Dottie Rankin NR Rider Wyoming Correspondent They say you need a vacation to get over your vacation. Right now I would have to say that is true. Two weeks on the road, six states, one bike and now a deadline. I am exhausted but in a good way. Our route took us through Wyoming, Montana, Idaho, Washington, Oregon and California. We refined and perfected the art of getting lost but it was perfect, beautiful country to be lost in. It just meant more time to enjoy good friends and majestic surroundings. In total we traveled 3,935 miles. We had three other couples traveling with us. It was interesting to get to know these couples on a deeper level. Our group John and Faye McClelland are fellow Harley Owner Group (H.O.G.) members and were in on this trip from the initial planning stages. They have been married 20plus years and ride a 2010 H-D Ultra Limited. They are seasoned two-up riders and have John and Faye a history McClelland. steeped in motorcycles. John is an avid flat-track, vintage motorcycle racer. He says he likes to slide and races old farts on old motorcycles! Their longest trip so far was last year – they rode 5,000 miles round-trip to Yellowknife, Northwest Territories, Canada. He said that was a cool trip because they went further than the road did! Bob and Debbie Welch are fellow Christian Motorcyclist Association members. Bob is a long time rider but Debbie is relatively new to the two-up scene. They ride a 2003 Ultra and Bob and Debbie Welch. this is their longest motorcycle adventure to date. Debbie turned out to be our Beach Goddess; it was hard to get her to leave the sandy paradise! My good friend and riding partner (some say partner in crime) Vickie Graham was along with us also. She rides a beautiful Vickie Graham and Milt 2012 white Glazzard. Heritage Classic. Her friend, Milt Glazzard, met us in Newport, Ore., and drove our chase vehicle and was literally a life saver when we had mechanical problems with one of the bikes. He rides a 2006 Ultra Classic and is a veteran rider with 50 years of motorcycle experience. It was interesting to experience the evolution of these relationships as we spent time and rode together. New acquaintances became friends, new friends became true friends and old friends became great friends. Our route Our route took us from our home in Gillette, Wyo., over Chief Joseph Scenic Byway (Hwy. 296) and Beartooth Pass (Hwy. 212) to Montana. We rode the famous Lolo Pass/Lochsa River (Hwy.12) into Idaho, continuing into Washington on Hwy. 14. We crossed the Columbia River at The Dalles. Ore., and rode along the Columbia River Gorge (Hwy. 30) enjoying the scenic wonders there. We crossed the mighty Astoria-Megler Bridge and hit the Pacific coast at Astoria, Ore. Beautiful Megler bridge. We followed the coast south (Hwy. 101) to Eureka, Calif., through the impressive redwood forests (that made us feel quite small). Then we headed in an easterly direction as we turned homeward meandering through Oregon where we were blessed and speechless with the unparalleled beauty of Crater Lake (off Hwy. 62). From there we traveled through Hell Canyon (Idaho side) stopping for the night at McCall, Idaho, where Payette Lake simply blew us away. From there we crossed Craters of the Moon National Monument (Hwy.20) in Idaho, eerie but beautiful. The last leg of our journey took us back to Wyoming with the customary, mandatory stop in Jackson Hole before heading back home. Our safety reminders It must be said that the importance of riding safely came crashing back fairly early in the trip when we hit a corner too hot coming into a roadside gas station. It was in the mountains and snuck up on us! We hit gravel and started sliding. If not for Earl’s proficiency at handling a motorcycle we would have tangled with a pole and it would not have ended well. I am sure it gave the others a few heart-stopping moments. It happened so fast I didn’t have time to get scared but when I climbed off the bike I had to sit down to get my heart rate back to normal. Our states Wyoming is our home and we love the scenic diversity of the state. Montana and Idaho offered some of the best motorcycle roads we found, but in all fairness I have by a canopy of trees that were lush and green, or riding beside the majestic splendor of the Pacific coast. The northern California coast was, well, frankly cold and foggy. We did not like the cold but the morning fog with sunshine breaking through here and there cast a mystical beauty that I will always remember. Our dining The food, oh the food! We sought out the regional and local favorites and were not disappointed; surprised at times but not disappointed. The Red Lodge Café in Red Lodge, Mont., had the best homemade chickenfried steak (my favorite meal). I cannot find homemade, hand-breaded chickenfried steak very often but I found it in Red Lodge and believe me, I enjoyed it! Perhaps the most famous sign in all of In Astoria, Bowpicker Fish and Chips motorcycling, U.S. Hwy. 12, Idaho. is legendary. It is an old boat (and I do mean old) moored on a grassy lot that to admit that it is a hard choice because doubles as a restaurant. There is no room every day, no matter what state we for seating inside but there are two old were in, there was amazing riding and picnic tables outside. The line is usually incredible scenery. long, at least an hour’s wait. Montana and Idaho gave us the Their specialty is deep-fried albacore tuna and steak fries. There were two menu options, a whole order of their specialty or a half order. Soda is at the end of the line in coolers. It was absolutely the best fish and chips we had ever eaten. The pecan pancakes at the Cowboy Café in Dubois, Wyo., were to die for but the best pancakes were the ones enjoyed with good friends and a great view right outside the window. We stumbled upon a funky pizza place in the upper level of the Fort George Brewery in Astoria that boasted “pizza like you’ve never had.” They certainly had that correct. We tried a garlic/truffle/ cheese pizza and a potato/bacon/clam pizza. Let’s just say that some things don’t famous Lolo Pass and, as the sign says, 99 belong on a pizza. It was a little “out there” miles of exuberant excitement. for our taste but the place was bustling so Idaho offered more Scenic Byways it appeared they had possibly found their than any other state and riding there was niche. heaven. Wet Dog Restaurant and Bar in Astoria Washington had many orchards and had the best bowl of Clam Chowder, and vineyards and it was lush and green. We we did eat a lot of clam chowder. rode Lewis and Clark Trail Highway (401) That brings us to the great lobster from Astoria to the H-D dealership in fiasco. Nasalle, Wash. On the way back south to I, being a fresh lobster virgin, thought Astoria we rode Highway 101 along the it would be super cool to eat a fresh coast which was spectacular. lobster while we were on the coast. We To me, Oregon was my magical utopia. sought out the restaurant that had the freshest of the fresh and got the gang together. I ordered lobster and was instructed to go pick out my meal from the tank where all the lobsters were strolling around. We were sitting right across from the tank and I had been watching the little guys and honest to God I think I bonded Everything is beautiful at the beach, including a motorcycle with my meal. parked there. The waitress grabbed him out The coastline, the forests and the roads all of the tank and, as luck would have it, two fit together to give us motorcycle vacation small children wanted to pet him. They paradise. The bridges of Oregon were ooo’ed and ahhh’ed over him and I was astonishing and fun to cross. More often feeling worse and worse about making than not we were riding on roads crowned See Lifetime Trip, Page 27 September 2013 Northern Rockies Rider - 27 Lifetime Trip from page 26 definitely worth the stop, although I liked the Lighthouse at Battery Point in Crescent City, Calif., a whole lot more. You can only get out to this lighthouse at low tide and it was set in surroundings that were truly breathtaking. Redwood National Park just south of Crescent City was populated with him my supper. The waitress took my little lobster to the kitchen and that is about the time someone at our table had to tell me about the way they cook lobsters: put them in boiling water while they are still alive. They also thought it necessary to let me know that lobsters squeak when immersed in the boiling water. I am certain I heard my little guy squeaking, “Help!” I know I did! I told myself I wanted to eat this lobster, not be his friend. “I can do this,” I repeated over and over. After all, there is honor involved here. Then they served my little guy to me – not just the tail, oh no, the whole dang thing! He was cooked and quite dead but he was looking at me through sad, dead eyes. I looked at the waitress and said, “Bring me some Multnomah Falls. chicken.” We did enjoy amazing fresh seafood all up and down the coast. stunning and majestic giants. John and You just can’t beat the combination of Faye rode their motorcycle through a fresh seafood and an ocean view. tunnel in one of the redwoods. Our lessons Downsizing from two bikes to one bike (his) made the trip a little more challenging but we managed. As long as I was buying new HarleyDavidson T-shirts from every state we traveled through, I figured I might as well wear my new shirts and ship the dirty clothes home. Although hubby grumbled and was shaking his head the whole time he stood in the Post Office line, it seemed perfectly sensible and logical to me! The other big (okay, huge) deal was to get comfortable being on the back of hubby’s bike again and making peace with leaving my bike at home. That is much easier said than done when I also know how to ride and we are both total control freaks! We learned (sort of) how to ride two people on one motorcycle. I finally relaxed and quit trying to control his driving and just let myself enjoy the beauty of my surroundings. It was a great way to experience this journey and strengthen the bonds that make us one. (Editor’s note: We wonder why Earl didn’t let Dottie drive and he ride bitch.) Our attractions The whole trip was packed with attractions that we visited but there are a few that stand out in my mind and will be cherished memories. Multnomah Falls on the Oregon side of the Columbia River Gorge, located east of Troutdale along the Historic Columbia River Highway, was just another example of the region’s natural beauty. John, Faye, Earl and I attempted to hike to the top of the falls. It was a mile hike, straight up, and one by one we fell out, all of us except Earl who, in typical Earl fashion, disappeared up the mountain. The Riverfront Trolley in Astoria was fun and informative. The Yaquina Bay Lighthouse at Newport, Ore., was Crater Lake was a definite favorite stop and is located in the central region of Oregon. It is a caldera lake with the most striking blue, crystal clear water that I have ever witnessed. Our final goodbye to vacation There were several things I planned for this vacation: Motels booked ahead of time, packing the bike and the prettiest and best motorcycling routes. But the one thing that was preplanned that turned out to be quite important was slating our last night in a location that would give us some serenity and rest, yet special enough to mark the closing of this epic journey. We kept a hectic pace the whole 16 days of vacation and I felt we would need this one special night to downshift and slide back into real life. I think I accomplished that objective with a stay Lava Gang on the last day at Lava Mountain. Mountain Lodge 18 miles found this little place on the top of the outside of Dubois, Wyo. mountain. We were exhausted and more than a little road weary after 16 days on the move. All we wanted was good food, The best of the best comfortable beds, friendly staff and Imagine: Two weeks on the road with restful, quiet and beautiful surroundings continuous amazing motorcycle riding, to aid the transition from a vacation state great food, good motels, and unsurpassed of mind to the real world that waited for scenery we got to share with such us tomorrow. wonderful people, greatly enhancing the We sat on redwood patio looking out experience. over the mountains, sipping wine and There is only one thing that could have sharing vacation memories. made the experience even better. Our peaceful respite continued Next time I will ride my own bike! through the most amazing prime rib Though I loved riding with my supper. hubby and it was a positive experience, I We then adjourned to our rooms honestly didn’t think it would bother me (which by the way are situated so that we as much as it did to not be riding my own could pull our bikes right up to the door), bike. Lesson learned. I love to ride and and continued to visit our last night away riding enhances every experience, even on the adjoining front porches. vacation. It was an amazing way to end our Get ready Glitter, next time you come vacation and I feel fortunate to have with me! Events Calendar National - 2013 • Aug. 5-11 - 73rd Annual Sturgis Motorcycle Rally, Sturgis, So. Dak., <sturgismotorcyclerally.com> National - 2014 • Feb. 28-March 9 - Daytona Bike Week, Daytona Beach, Fla., <officialbikeweek.com> • April 23-27 - Laughlin River Run, Laughlin, Nev., <laughlinriverrun.com> • June 14-22 - Laconia Motorcycle Week, Laconia, New Hampshire, <laconiamcweek.com> • June 16 - Ride Your Motorcycle To Work Day, <ridetowork.org> • Aug. 4-10 - 74th Annual Sturgis Motorcycle Rally, Sturgis, So. Dak., <sturgismotorcyclerally.com> Alberta • Sept. 8 - RMS Swap Meet, Millarville, Millarville race track, Hwy. 549 W & 192 St. W, <[email protected]> • Sept. 14-15 - Fall Classic Race, Thorhild, <avfta.ca> 2014 • Jan. 10-12 - Calgary Motorcycle Show, Calgary, BMO Centre, Stampede Park, Laurie Paetz, 403-245-9008, <[email protected]>, <calgarymotorcycleshow.ca> British Columbia • Sept. 14-15 - Port Alberni Toy Run, Port Alberni, Little Qualicum Falls, 250-731-4728, <[email protected]>, <members.shaw.ca/toyrun> 2014 • Jan. 17-19 - Edmonton Motorcycle & ATV Show, Northlands, Edmonton Expo Centre, Laurie Paetz, 403-245-9008, <[email protected]>, <edmontonmotorcycleshow.com> • Jan. 24-26 - Vancouver Motorcycle Show, Abbotsford, Trade & Exhibition Centre, Laurie Paetz, 403-245-9008, <[email protected]>, <vancouvermotorcycleshow.com> Idaho • Sept. 13-15 - Big Nasty Hill Climb, 35 miles NW of Boise, 208-573-4255, <[email protected]>, <bignastyhillclimb.com> • Nov. 9 - Geico AMA EnduroCross, Nampa, 16200 N. Idaho Center Blvd., 817-243-9515, <endurocross.com> <[email protected]>, Montana • Sept. 14 - MC Swap Meet, Missoula, Grizzly H-D, 5106 E. Harrier, 406-721-2154, <grizzlyhd.com> Washington • Sept. 8 - Puget Sound Ride For Kids, Carnation, Remlinger Farms, 32610 NE 32nd St.,1-800-253-6530, <pbtfus.org/rideforkids/events/2013/ puget-sound>, <[email protected]> • Sept. 8 - Union Ride and Charity Rally, Suquamish, Patrick Town, 206-406-8139, <[email protected]>, <unionionhomebenefit.com> • Sept. 22 - Oyster Run, Anacortes, 12th and Commercial, 360-435-9103, <oysterrun.org>, <[email protected]> • Oct. 20 - Halloween Swap Meet, Spokane Humane Society, 509-294-1249, [email protected]>, <nwclassicmotorcycleclub.com> • Nov. 11 - Veterans Day parade, Oak Harbor, Pioneer Way, Terry Lacey, 360-240-1125, <ohvetdayparade.com>, <[email protected]> 2014 • Feb. 14-16 - Seattle International Motorcycle Show, Washington State Convention Center, 800 Convention Place, <motorcycleshows.com/Seattle>. • March 14-16 - Inland NW MC Show, Spokane, Spokane Co. Fair & Expos Center, Chris Cody, 509-220-4147, <[email protected]>, <spokanemotorcycleshow.com> Wyoming • Sept. 18 - Ladies of Harley Ride, Cheyenne, High Country Motorsports, 3320 E. Lincolnway, 888-638-8307 • Sept. 21 - Leaf Peepin’ Ride to Estes, Cheyenne, High Country Motorsports, 3320 E. Lincolnway, 888-638-8307 To have your event listed here for free, send the information to Dani Rollison at <[email protected]>. We only can list the days(s) and name of the event, the city and location of the event, a contact person’s name, e-mail address, phone number or web address. Northern Rockies Rider - 28 Honda Fury corner you come to. This is one of the most fun bikes that I’ve ever from page 17 ridden. It’s not fast but if you want an interesting do. The steering at higher speed is neutral looking motorcycle for weekend cruising or just with no surprises and there is good running around town overall feeling of stability. doing errands, this would But there’s not a lot ground clearance not be a bad choice. with that low-slung frame and you can Here’s what’s bad: drag your pegs, even in modest corners if – You’ll get a lot of you push a little too hard. attention riding this bike Over 50 mph the Fury feels planted and may have to put up with people asking you all the time A bike can’t be all show and no go. Here’s the seat if the Fury reworked by Mean City Cycles. is a Harleythe cheaper 10-pound factory foam with Davidson. 22-pound memory gel foam. Hospitals – Honda had to make some cost savings and there’s only use 15-pound foam in their softest abundant use of plastics (front and rear fenders for example) and chromed plastic on the engine header covers, but they are very easy to clean and look nice. Most people never suspect they are plastic, and I clean & polish The Fury ain’t no canyon carver but it makes for her weekly in less then one an excellent cruiser platform. Mount Ranier in the hour. background. – The small gas tank is a sacrifice in practicality for the chopper look. While the Fury’s tank on the road and with the five-speed is nicely executed and suits the overall transmission and shaft drive it rides as “custom” feel, at 3.2-gallons you’ll have smoothly and as seamlessly as you would to make frequent visits to the gas station. expect from any Honda cruiser. I however, do not find this to be a major No problems either with that big problem. fat 200mm Dunlop rear tire. I have – The stock seat is adequate for an 13,000 miles on mine and expect to get average height and weight rider, but another 2.000-3,000 more out of it. The for someone six feet or more and over big tire looks great and handles the road 190 pounds, you might want to look well and enhances the rear suspension into getting a custom Mean City Cycle performance. Saddle like I did. This company and their This may not be a bike you would want to do 500 or 1,000 miles on in a day. customized seats are plain awesome (<http://www.meancitycycles.com>). It’s a cruiser, a bar hopper, a weekend They offer custom seat modifications rider, whatever you want to call it. But to make motorcycles as comfortable as above all it’s a bike to get on the road and possible without breaking the bank to do have some fun with. I have no problem so. They remove the OEM seat and reriding 300 to 500 miles on the Fury on shape the foam to be more comfortable. weekends. Most standard seats have a lot of Most custom choppers look extraordinary but ride appallingly. Not so foam in them but nevertheless can be uncomfortable. with the Fury. MCC modifications are inexpensive Somehow Honda has managed to get but offer the best seat to fit you the balance right. You get the chopper individually based on your size and your looks and a lot of attention, but you also bike. get a motorcycle that cruises well, is I had them do a gel pad and replace predictable and won’t bite you at the first Got a chopper? Then it needs bling Velociraptor air induction system Dave Hoffman, owner of the which utilizes K & N filtering. subject Fury, has been busy adding Ah, Dave, you do know there’s no custom bits. In addition to the seat, he’s installed a Highway Hawk backrest, end...? Writer Dave Hoffman is a PhD in Arlen Ness skeleton-hand mirrors and astronomy and mathematics and lives ultra bright deep-dish red L.E.D. tail/ at Soap Lake, Wash. He says, “I used turn lights. to be able to do... He’s also added Kuryakyn extending many 500-1,000-plusmile weekends...on “swing-wing” foot my 1997 Valkyrie. I pegs that fold up and out of the way even rode from Cody through Yellowstone when not needed. Next were HID to home (1,200 miles) ultra bright white/ in one long day (never again). I put 192,000 blue headlight bulbs. documented miles on With the Cobra Chromed skeleton hands support her between 1997 and the mirrors. Eye-catching, eh? “Sweeps” after2002 but I totaled her market exhaust, a on Stevens Pass in the rain (new tires). Two weeks later... Power Commander fueling optimizer I took off on a new 1997 red and white was installed. A phat 240mm Dunlop Valkyrie tourer for another 117,000 by Elite III complements the newfound 2007.” He may be contacted at <dph@ power. He says he’s got his eye on a ifiber>. September 2013 beds. MCC was able to give me a seat with more legroom and drop my seat height a half-inch lower for only $115. You can get one-day turn around not counting shipping time. Now instead of wanting to get off the seat in 30 to 40 minutes of riding, I can easily go in comfort until I run out of gas. By the way, this is the third model of bike and seat that I’ve had MCC’s Allen and Chad give the same modification to. Yes, I’ve tried them all – Corbin, Ultimate, etc, etc. – and none compare in price and comfort. The Fury is, in my opinion, a real production chopper that is fun to ride and it is well worth the comparatively low $13,000 price tag. There are a lot of bikes that cost $15,000 and up that the Fury will, and does, best in every way that you could compare them.