Installation Instructions

Installation Instructions
Supercharger System
88-95 CIVIC ZC DOHC 1.6L
PART # 989-110
440 Rutherford St. P.O. Box 847 Goleta, CA 93116
1-888-888-4079 • FAX 805-692-2523 • www.jacksonracing.com
The ZC engine family was never sold as
a production automobile in the U.S. market. Consequently, we cannot give specific year, make, and model instructions
for non-U.S. automobiles or U.S. model
cars with “transplants.” Typically, our
instructions are very thorough for each
year, make, and model. Due to the lack
of a consistent production car in the
U.S.A., our instructions are somewhat
generic. We have made every attempt to
build our current instructions based on
feedback from our prototype kits in the
U.K., Europe, New Zealand, and “transplants” here in the U.S.
model. You may end up with extra parts
as a result of this, as well as additional
hardware from other steps.
Some non-U.S. model ZC powered cars
did not have catalytic converters or oxygen sensor style “feedback” emissions
system. In those applications, our air
temperature wiring harness extension
wire should be left out of the installation.
This particular wire has a resistor in line
in the wire. It is designed to drive the
injectors to full duty cycle on U.S. model
cars. If you have one of these non-U.S.
model cars, some experimenting with and
without the wiring resistor may be
required. If you chose to leave the resistor out of the harness and the car has
any sign of detonation, please go back
and reinstall the extension.
If you find any helpful information about a
specific year, make or model from another country or “transplant,” please call our
sales office and leave that specific information so that it can be added to future
instructions. Also note that some illustrations are of a single overhead cam
engine. The ZC and the single cam
engines use the same generic layout and
components. The illustrations are to be
used as a general guideline, not an
absolute drawing. Also, we have supplied
different fuel hoses based on whether
you are working on an ’88-’91or ’92-’95
989-110
For tuning purposes on any car with an O2
sensor, you can use a voltage signal from
the O2 sensor to get the air/fuel ratio you
require. Connect a digital voltage meter to
the output wire of the O2 sensor and check
the voltage at wide open throttle (WOT).
The WOT voltage should range from .83
(13-1) to .95 (12-1). These figures are only
-1-
Rev. 4/08/22/00
Supercharger Installation Instructions
approximations. A true laboratory quality
wide band O2 sensor system is the only truly
accurate way of testing air/fuel ratios. But
this will give you some good guide lines to
start with.
ahead in the instructions so you are certain
to catch all notes and warnings.
During this installation process, you will
reuse some parts or hardware and not reinstall others. It is recommended that you
make space for those that you will reuse,
and a separate space for those that you will
not reinstall. In addition, you should save the
parts that will not get reused in case you ever
have reason to convert the engine back to
stock.
SPECIAL NOTE: Because there are so
many different makes, models, and countries that we sell kits to, we are unable to
supply a throttle body gasket with your kit.
We recommend you purchase a new throttle
body gasket from your local Honda dealer
before starting the installation. A new intake
to cylinder head gasket has been furnished.
Use this supplied gasket only, not a factory
replacement. If you do not have a shop
manual, buy one now! It is good to have one
for any repairs now and in the future.
Enclosed are a set of labels that we suggest
you use to label the electrical connectors
that you will be unplugging.
If the vehicle has over 15,000 miles on the
fuel filter, a new fuel filter will be required. A
new fuel filter is available at your local Honda
dealer. Always use genuine Honda parts.
Jackson Racing Supercharger Systems are
designed to be installed by individuals with
good mechanical sense and with the proper
tools. Use your best discretion! The supercharger DOES NOT require a break-in or
warm up period. However, to prolong engine
life, it is recommended that the engine be
properly warmed up before operating under
maximum boost.
This is also a good time to change your oil
and filter as the oil filter must be removed for
installation of the superchar-ger on models
with an oil cooler mounted under the oil filter
(some non-U.S. vehicles). It is a good idea to
start draining the oil, oil filter, and coolant
first. This will allow for all fluids to drain completely before you start working under the
car.
WARNING: Once the installation is complete, CHECK AND RECHECK ALL fuel system connections for possible leaks before
operating the vehicle. High octane (91
R+M/2) gasoline (or higher) is required when
running a supercharger!
READ THESE INSTRUCTIONS THOROUGHLY! Follow the instructions STEP-BYSTEP, and your installation will be trouble
free. If in doubt, CALL 1-888-888-4079. We
suggest that as you proceed through the
installation, you should read a few steps
989-110
TOOLS NEEDED: 10, 12, 14, 17-mm sockets and wrenches, a 5-mm allen wrench,
3/16” allen wrench, 22-mm wrench or
adjustable wrench capable of 22-mm opening, a drill, a 5/8” drill bit or UNI-Bit, Phillips
and straight blade screwdrivers, Oil and
coolant drain pans. Most of these tools are
available at your local hardware or auto
parts stores.
-2-
Rev. 4/08/22/00
Supercharger Installation Instructions
Upper Radiator
Hose
Throttle Body
Lower Radiator
Hose
To PCV Valve
These two hoses
will be Replaced
by one new 5/16”
X 18” coolant
hose
EACV Valve
Main Water Pipe
U Shaped Hose
Illustration 1
This Hose will be replaced
by a new 5/16” X 14”
coolant hose
Thermostat Housing
Heater Hose
Illustration 2
989-110
-3-
Rev. 4/08/22/00
Supercharger Installation Instructions
passenger fender. It is this wire that you
will be working near when installing the
supercharger. For safety, Jackson Racing
has you remove the entire ground system
so that the entire car has no power. But,
by removing the Phillips screw and the
main power wire to the alternator you can
save your radio codes and still be safe
from electrical shock or sparks from the
top alternator power lead. The danger to
using this system is that the fuel pump
system still has power. It could be turned
on inadvertently causing a fire and bodily
harm. If you choose to use the power
lead removal method instead of the shutdown of the entire system as Jackson
Racing recommends, you do so at your
own risk.
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS:
1. VERY IMPORTANT! Remove the
negative battery cable. If you have a
coded alarm on your radio, retrieve the
code before removing the negative cable.
Removing the negative cable shuts down
the entire electrical system and is the
safest way to work on your vehicle. But,
you will lose all of your preset radio stations and alarm codes. There is one other
option. If you open the “underhood” fuse
box on the passenger side of the inner
fender you will find two main wires entering the fuse box. Each of the two wires is
held in place with a Phillips head screw.
One of the wires is the main supply wire
to the alternator; it is usually the one on
the right hand side when looking from the
2. Put your car on jackstands. NEVER
Stock Fuel Rail Configuration
High Pressure Fuel
Supply Hose
Stock Fuel Pressure
Regulator
Adaptor
(see Illus. #9)
Rail pressure regulator adaptor
Injector
Wiring
Harness
Intake Manifold
Vacuum
Retain Stock
‘O’ rings
Fuel Return
Modified Fuel Rail Configuration
Illustration 3
989-110
Remove
regulator
Rotate and
fit to
Adaptor
-4-
Rev. 4/08/22/00
Supercharger Installation Instructions
WORK UNDER A VEHICLE NOT SUPPORTED BY JACKSTANDS OR PROPER RAMPS!!
through the top of the radiator while holding a shop towel over the top of the radiator and air blowing device.This will purge
the majority of coolant from the block and
keep you from getting dripped on while
working under the car.
3. From under the front of the car,
remove the plastic belly pan to gain
access to the belt and alternator area.
6. From above the engine compartment
remove the hose connecting the stock air
box to the throttle body.
4. Remove the large brace that supports
the intake manifold. Reinstall the two
lower mounting bolts. The large support
brace will not be reinstalled.
7. You will find labels included in the
instruction bag for each sensor and its
corresponding plug. We strongly suggest
that they be used properly. Label and
remove all hoses connected to the throttle body. Remove the hose from the
throttle body and MAP sensor. This hose
will be replaced later.
8. Remove throttle cable-bracket bolts
5. Loosen the coolant system cap and
drain the cooling system into the drain
pan as you will be replacing hoses as
well as the intake manifold.
NOTE: When draining the coolant, carefully blow compressed air, if available,
Illustration 4
989-110
-5-
Rev. 4/08/22/00
Supercharger Installation Instructions
and downshift cable-bracket screws
(Auto/Trans ONLY!) and lay the cable/
bracket assemblies out of the way. Do
not change the downshift cable adjustment nuts. Just remove the mounting
screws.
main water pipe. It is the hose on the
driver side of the EACV valve.
Illustration 1 & 2
11. Unplug the EACV valve electrical
connector. The wire colors are usually
black with a blue stripe and yellow with a
black stripe.Some models and countries
vary the wire colors. Apply a label to this
wiring harness. DO NOT CUT OR MODIFY this wiring harness!! It is often confused with the air temperature (T/A) harness, which will be modified later in this
section. Illustration 2
9. Remove the small coolant hose from
the intake manifold directly above the
number 4 intake runner (closest to the
transmission). Follow that tube to the
other end and disconnect it at the throttle
body. Remove the vent hose from the
valve cover. You can now remove the
metal coolant/vent tube assembly as you
will not be reusing these parts.
Illustration 1
12. From the driver’s inner fender you
will find one or two brackets that hold the
fuel injection wiring harness out of the
way. One bracket is mounted to the inner
fender and the other is mounted to the
10. Label and remove the coolant hose
that runs to the EACV valve from the
Illustration 5
989-110
-6-
Rev. 4/08/22/00
Supercharger Installation Instructions
fuel return bracket, which is mounted to
the intake manifold. Remove the bolts
and keep them for future use. You will be
reusing the one that mounts to the inner
fender. You will not be reusing the one
that mounts to the top of the fuel return
bracket as you will be relocating the main
fuel hose.
this procedure! Open your gas cap to
remove any residual pressure from the
gas tank before removing the 22-mm nut.
Illustration 3
13. Carefully pull back the wire clips that
hold the 2 pin connector to the fuel injectors. Unplug the two fuel injection plugs
that are located directly below the windshield on the driver’s side shock tower.
Unplug the air temperature (T/A) sensor
plug from the air temperature sensor on
the driver’s side of the intake manifold.
You will be installing an idle compensator-extension harness to this wiring
harness. Squeeze the plastic clip that
holds it to the fuel return bracket.
Carefully remove the injector harness as
mentioned above and lay on the passenger fender out of harm’s way.
16. Unbolt the stock fuel pressure regulator from the fuel rail before removing
the fuel rail. Remove the three nuts that
hold the fuel rail on to the intake manifold. Remove the fuel rail and the injectors. Illustration 3
14. Use
extreme caution when
removing the
22-mm nut that
connects the
fuel supply line
to fuel rail. The
fuel system is
under pressure
and can spray
fuel. Do not
work near
sparks or
flames! Do not
smoke during
989-110
15. Remove the fuel return line from the
stock fuel pressure regulator on the driver’s side of the fuel injection rail.
17. Unplug the power brake hose from
the intake manifold.
18. Remove the PCV valve from the
intake manifold between the #1 and #2
cylinder runners. Remove the rubber
connector hose that the PCV valve was
plugged into from between the #1 and #2
Illustration 6
-7-
Rev. 4/08/22/00
Supercharger Installation Instructions
Oil
Cooler
Fitting
Before
Oil
Cooler
Fitting
Being
Bent
Oil
Cooler
Fitting
After
Illustration 7
989-110
-8-
Rev. 4/08/22/00
Supercharger Installation Instructions
runners of the intake manifold.
of the nut. When you test fit the supercharger assembly, pay particularly close
attention to this main lead and mounting
hardware to insure that it does not touch
the supercharger when all hardware is
tight. Lay the alternator back against the
fire wall temporarily.
19. Remove the top of the U-shaped
coolant hose that connects the intake
manifold with the thermostat housing.
Illustration 1
20. Remove the bolt that fastens the
upper alternator bracket to the engine
block. This bolt will be reused. Remove
the bolt and washer from the adjustment
side of the bracket and save just the bolt.
The large washer and bracket will not be
reused. Illustration 4
REMEMBER: the negative battery terminal is supposed to be disconnected during this procedure. Illustration 5
Mitsubishi Type Illustration 5
If you have this type of alternator you will
have to remove the plastic cap from the
main power insulator. Remove the nut
from under the plastic cap and carefully
pry the insulator off the alternator assembly. Rotate the insulator 90° until it points
toward the engine block. This will move
the main power supply away from the
supercharger and out of harms way.
Reinstall the nut and tighten carefully, so
you don’t break the insulator.
21. Remove the 10 nuts that hold the
intake manifold to the cylinder head and
remove the intake manifold assembly.
22. With the intake manifold out of the
way, remove the lower alternator pivot
bolt and install it in the reverse direction.
Honda installed the pivot bolt with the
square head mounted near the oil filter
with the threads on the outside facing the
wheel. You will reverse the direction by
installing the bolt from the wheel with the
threads facing the oil filter. You will thread
a hex support adapter supplied in the kit
onto this bolt later in the installation.
24. Remove the throttle body and EACV
valve from the stock intake manifold and
install them on the new intake tube using
the 8 X 40-mm bolts and one nut provided for the throttle body. You will be
reusing the EACV bolts. Some non-U.S.
model cars did not have an EACV valve
on the back of the intake manifold. If
your car did not come with an EACV
valve, plug the two large vacuum ports
with the two 1/4 NPT pipe plugs provided
loose in the parts kit.
23. Alternator Wiring Harness Relocation:
Nippon Denso Type Unbolt the main
white wire from the top of the alternator
and rotate it to the opposite side of the
insulator. This will allow the supercharger
to set down low in the motor compartment without fear of shorting out the main
wire harness. This stud sets up very high
on some models. We recommend grinding the excess stud off flush with the top
989-110
25. Carefully remove the T/A (air temp)
sensor from the stock intake manifold
and install on to the Jackson Racing
-9-
Rev. 4/08/22/00
Supercharger Installation Instructions
Supercharger manifold. You will be
installing an air temperature harness for
this sensor later in the fuel injection
installation section. Illustration 2
filter assembly and the throttle body inlet
tube is very important. Be sure to have
the fitting on the high-pressure fuel lines
facing the air box assembly on the passenger side of the motor compartment. If
the fuel filter has not been changed in
15,000 miles, please replace it at this
time.
26. With the intake manifold out of the
way, replace the old EACV coolant hose
with a new 5/16” X 14” coolant hose supplied with the kit and lay it on the passenger side for future connection to the
EACV valve or throttle body on nonEACV equipped cars. Secure the hose
with two new clamps supplied in the kit.
27. Connect the new 3/8” X 15” PCV
hose supplied with kit to the stock 90°
PCV valve fitting. Reinstall the PCV valve
into the rubber holder removed from the
intake manifold and secure it with the two
plastic ties provided, then route it toward
the distributor. Tie the PCV valve hose to
the water pipe using two of the plastic
ties provided. This will make installing
the supercharger intake manifold easier.
NOTE: If you are working on a ’92-’95
model chassis, you will want to replace
the fuel line that is clamped at the base
of the firewall. You will replace the stock
hose with the 1/4” x 18” hose provided
with the kit. Clamp with the #4 clamps
provided. If you are working on an ’88-’91
chassis, no fuel line change at the firewall
is required.
NOTE: The clearance between the fuel
28. Bend the very tip of the PCV/Oil
Separator Box with a mallet to provide
clearance for the supercharger. If your oil
separator box has a foam cover, remove
it. Illustration 6
29. The oil cooler fitting in the
main water pipe needs to be
indexed (or pointed) in a horizontal position back towards the fire
wall. On some models we have
found that the fitting points above
horizontal, slightly uphill. If your
fitting points above horizontal,
CAREFULLY, using a punch or
screwdriver, insert it into the fitting
and gently apply pressure until
the water pipe is at least horizontal. If the oil cooler fitting is pointing a little downhill, that is acceptable.
30. Some ZC models have a
Illustration 8
989-110
-10-
Rev. 4/08/22/00
Supercharger Installation Instructions
built-in oil cooler mounted under the oil
filter. If you have one of these model
engines, the coolant fitting on top of the
oil cooler needs to be pointing at least 45
degrees above horizontal to allow clearance for the supercharger. Disconnect
the coolant hose from the coolant fitting
on the top of the oil cooler. CAREFULLY
insert a punch or screwdriver and apply
upward pressure until the coolant fitting is
pointing up at least 45 degrees. Be careful not to bend the fitting too much or the
hose will rest against the main water
pipe. The heat from the main water pipe
could melt the coolant hose resulting in
severe engine damage. Reconnect the
coolant hose that you just disconnected.
Illustration 7
to be changed, as do all drive belts, periodically. The uni-body design of the
Civic/CRX allows for a large tolerance in
the frame rail position, from car to car,
that may restrict the installation of your
supercharger drive belt during routine belt
replacement. Check your car for proper
clearance between the alternator pulley
and the frame rail with the new belt drive
bracket in place. You should have at
least 5-mm clearance. If 5-mm is not
there, put a mark on your frame rail
where the lack of clearance exists.
Remove your belt drive bracket and
move the alternator up and out of the
way. Then gain clearance by using a
mallet or hammer and put a small concave recess in the frame rail until you
have the proper clearance. You will want
to repeat this procedure during you initial
supercharger/intake mock-up installation
as the supercharger pulley clearance is
also important. This will allow the drive
belts to be replaced in the future, without
removing the supercharger.
33. Install the cast inlet casting (goose-
31. Install the new belt drive bracket,
attaching it to the original location on the
engine block using the stock 10-mm
flanged bolt. Attach it to the alternator
using the stock bolt saved from step 20
of the removal section.
32. The supercharger drive belt will need
Illustration 9
989-110
-11-
Rev. 4/08/22/00
Supercharger Installation Instructions
neck) on the supercharger assembly. Lay
the supercharger on a workbench with
the square opening facing upwards. Be
very careful not to drop anything into the
supercharger. Install an inlet gasket, supplied in the kit, to the small inlet side of
the supercharger where the four studs
are located. Install the intake tube
(gooseneck) onto these studs using the
four M8 x 1.25 flange nuts supplied.
Torque the nuts to 16 ft-lbs. The intake
tube can only be installed one way.
bly to the cylinder head, reusing all 10
nuts. Torque all nuts to 16 ft-lbs.
37. Center the supercharger outlet gasket supplied with the kit on the flat lip,
square hole, of the supercharger. Be sure
the bypass valve has its hose and two
clamps loosely installed. Lubricate the
bypass hose with WD40 for easier installation.
38. Lift the supercharger into place and
secure the supercharger to the intake
manifold using the four allen bolts. Torque
all four bolts to 16 ft-lbs.
34. It is now time to do a test installation
of the supercharger/intake manifold
assembly. Carefully lower the supercharger assembly down into the oil filter
area. Slide the Jackson Racing intake
manifold onto the cylinder head studs.
Hand-tighten two intake manifold nuts
onto the Jackson Racing intake manifold
to hold it into place. Slip the supercharger
drive belt over the supercharger pulley.
Lift the supercharger up to the intake
manifold and install all four allen head
mounting bolts supplied in the kit.
Following the instructions outlined in Step
32, check for proper clearance at the
frame rail. Remove the supercharger and
intake manifold in reverse order of installation. Make any necessary modifications
at this time.
39. Tighten the clamps that connect the
bypass valve to the supercharger inlet
casting. Install the throttle body/EACV
valve assembly.
40. Connect the 5/16” X 14” coolant
hose from the water pipe (Illustration 1) to
the empty hose connection on the EACV
valve, next to the throttle body.
41. Connect the new PCV hose to the
machined fitting on the side of the throttle
body inlet tube. No clamp is necessary as
this fitting is machined to be self locking.
42. Reconnect the stock U-shaped hose
from the thermostat housing to the lower
intake manifold fitting.
35. Once any necessary modifications
are completed, it is time to install the
supercharger and intake manifold.
Carefully lower the supercharger assembly down into the oil filter area.
43. Connect a new 5/16” x 18” coolant
line from the vertical 5/16” hose fitting, on
the passenger side of the intake manifold, to the throttle body. Tighten with
clamps provided.
44. Install the large hex adapter supplied
36. Install the intake manifold onto the
cylinder head studs. Tighten the assem-
989-110
-12-
Rev. 4/08/22/00
Supercharger Installation Instructions
in the kit onto the lower alternator pivot
bolt and tighten. Bolt the support brace
from the pivot adapter to the supercharger using the nuts and bolts supplied in
the kit using the .328” spacer between
the supercharger and the support brace.
Illustration 8
original position. Be sure to route all harnesses out of harm’s way.
48. From the main fuel injector wiring
harness comes the T/A (air temperature)
sub-wiring harness. You will be adding a
wire harness extension (with resistor) to
the T/A sensor wires. Cut the stock
green wire and red wire approximately
two inches back from the connector and
splice the Jackson Racing extension harness in line. This harness must be
installed as it carries special resistance
for idle and high speed compensation if
your model has a catalytic converter and
an oxygen sensor feedback system.
Do not attempt to extend the T.A.
wiring with any other type of harness
than the correct one as serious engine
damage will probably result!!
45. Install the new supercharger drive
belt as shown in Illustration 4.
46. Thread the 1/4” tension bolt down
against the ‘T’ nut until proper belt tension is achieved. Approximately 90 ft-lbs.
of belt tension is required. If you hear the
sound of belt ‘squealing’ when you start
your car, you don’t have enough tension.
Take caution not to over tighten the belt,
as it will reduce the life of your supercharger nose bearings and your idler pulley bearings. Tighten the 17-mm headed
tensioner bolt, using a 17-mm wrench,
and the 1/4” locking nut. Supercharger
belt tension is complete. You will need to
re-check belt tension after 5 minutes running and approximately every 500 miles
as the belt will stretch over time.
49. Remove the cap on the end of the
fuel rail. Using the supplied 0-ring with
the new regulator adapter, install the regulator adapter in place of the end cap,
using the 6-mm allen bolts provided.
Make sure the fuel pressure regulator
adapter is installed correctly.
Illustration 9
47. Reinstall the fuel injectors and seals
removed from your stock intake manifold
in step 16, to the supercharger intake
manifold. Inspect the fuel injector seals
at this time for cracking/splitting. Replace
the seals as necessary. Insert the three
fuel insulators in their proper position,
between the intake manifold and the fuel
rail, and install the new 6 x 30-mm bolts
supplied with your kit. Torque to 7ft-lbs.
Reconnect your stock fuel injection wiring
harness back onto the stock fuel injectors. Connect all the connectors to their
989-110
50. Bolt the stock fuel pressure regulator
to the new adapter using the original
bolts. The outlet fitting should face back
towards the fire wall and down.
Illustration 3
51. On 88-91 models, mount the auxiliary fuel pressure regulator to the threaded boss that is part of the left side (from
the inside of the car looking out) motor
mount, using the ‘P’ shaped bracket pro-
-13-
Rev. 4/08/22/00
Supercharger Installation Instructions
vided. You will be reusing the 6-mm bolts
from your stock wiring harness brackets
that are left on your stock intake manifold. Have the fittings of the Jackson
Racing FMU facing rearward towards the
shock tower/engine. On ’92 and later
models, mount the auxiliary fuel pressure
regulator to one of the threaded bosses
in the middle of the fire wall.
pressure regulator. Install the 18” vacuum hose from the fitting next to it and
connect it to the Jackson Racing FMU
auxiliary rail pressure regulator.
55. Route the high pressure fuel supply
line, from the stock fuel filter, over or
under the throttle body intake tube
(whichever gives the greatest flexibility)
and reconnect the high pressure fuel supply line (Step 14) using the original aluminum crush washer on each side of the
high pressure banjo fitting. Make certain
to see that no fuel leaks from this or any
other fuel connection (i.e.- fuel rail, regulator(s), injectors) once the engine is running again.
52. On ’88-’91 models, you will be connecting the original fuel return hose to the
CENTER fitting of the auxiliary fuel pressure regulator using the factory fuel line
clamps. On later models you will have to
replace this hose with a longer one to
reach the fire wall mounting location of
the auxiliary fuel pressure regulator.
56. Using the original bracket and clamp
that held the main wire harness to the driver’s shock tower (step 12), reinstall the
bracket and clamp so the wire harness is
safely away from all moving parts, if
applicable.
53. On ’88-’91 model chassis, connect a
new 5/16” x 10” fuel line from the OFFCENTER fitting of the Jackson Racing
FMU auxiliary rail pressure regulator to
the outlet of the stock fuel pressure regulator. On ’92-’95 model chassis, you will
be replacing both fuel lines with a new
1/4” x 18” fuel hose provided with the kit.
(See Step 26). One 1/4” x 18” fuel hose
connects from the base of the firewall up
to the center fitting of the JR FMU. The
other 1/4” x 18” fuel line will be connected from the stock fuel pressure regulator
to the outer fitting of the JR FMU. Clamp
with two new 4-worm gear clamps.
Depending on the vehicle’s model and
country, you may have to replace this
hose with a longer one as well.
57. Reinstall the remaining factory belt(s)
at this time for power steering and A/C as
applicable.
58. Reconnect the throttle cable, automatic transmission cable (if equipped),
TPS wiring and all labeled vacuum hoses
removed in step 8 to throttle body assembly.
59. You will be replacing the dashpot/purge cut hose with a supplied 13”
piece of vacuum hose. Connect this vacuum hose to the back side of the supercharger next to the vacuum connection
for the actuator valve. This fitting will
supply vacuum to the dash-pot/purge cut
54. Install an 8” vacuum hose from one
of the two vacuum fittings on the supercharger intake manifold to the stock fuel
989-110
-14-
Rev. 4/08/22/00
Supercharger Installation Instructions
solenoid valve on the throttle body
assembly (if equipped).
the air from the cooling system. Failure
to properly fill and bleed (burp) the cooling system can lead to engine failure.
60. Install a 14” vacuum hose from the
throttle body to the MAP sensor mounted
on the fire wall. If you are using a throttle
body with an integrated MAP sensor, disregard this instruction.
67. Start engine and check for fuel or
coolant leaks. Stop engine and repair
any leaks at this time. Start engine again
and check all repairs.
61. Reinstall the EACV valve electrical
connector. You may have to open the
plastic wire harness protector of the main
wiring harness to extend the wiring harness
to make it reach the new EACV location.
68. Reset ignition timing by referring to
the factory manual for the location of the
2 pin ignition timing by-pass connector
plug for your model, before moving the
distributor. On ’88-’91 models, the 2 pin
connector will be located on the driver’s
side (US) inner fender. There should be
a yellow cover over the top of the plug.
Connect a paper clip into the connector
before you start to reset the timing. This
will cause the ‘check engine’ light to be
illuminated on the instrument panel. After
the timing has been set, remove the
paper clip and the ‘check engine’ light will
go out and the computer will compensate
for your timing adjustments. Reset ignition timing to 10º BTDC. The better the
fuel the better it will run. If your fuel is
below 92(R+M/2) octane, test drive the
car carefully at first, listen for any pinging
(detonation) sound from the engine area.
If any pinging is audible, let off the throttle. Re-check the fuel quality and/or the
ignition timing setting.
62. Remove the air box assembly from
the car. You will be drilling or filing one
5/8” hole. You will be installing the rubber
grommet in this hole. On the side of the
air box that faces the distributor, mark a
spot one inch down from the top of the
box and one inch in from the side. Drill a
5/8” hole at this junction and install the
rubber grommet into the newly drilled
hole. This will be connected to the vent
fitting on the valve cover via a 3/8” x 15”
hose. Clean out any excess plastic left
from the drilling.
63. Install the new connector hose from
stock air box to throttle body and tighten
with the clamps provided.
64. Reinstall the plastic belly pan using
original hardware.
65. Recheck all fuel line fittings, clamps,
vacuum hoses and wiring. Be sure to
check for adequate clearance for all wiring and fuel lines that pass near moving parts.
66. Check radiator, top up and bleed all
989-110
Wire Color Chart
-15-
Rev. 4/08/22/00
Supercharger Installation Instructions
Air temp sensor (T/A) (1)
(1)
(1)
Red/Yellow
Green/White
(1)
Black/Blue or
Blue/Yellow
Yellow/Black
Purge control valve
(1)
(1)
Yellow/Black
Red/Yellow
MAP sensor
(1)
(1)
(Long
(1)
White/Red
Green/White
exposed lead)
White
Throttle position
switch
(TPS)
(1)
Red/Blue
(1)
Green/White
(Short exposed lead)
(1)
Yellow/White
EACV
supercharged engines, the cleaner the air
flows in, the better power it will make.
The one thing you do not want to do is
make the supercharger have to pull hard
to get air.
If you are forcing more air into the engine, you want to ensure you have plenty
of fuel. The stock fuel pump works greatwhen new for highway use. However,
like a radiator, it can grow weak with age
and run out of volume in high demand,
sustained (racing) loads. Our high output
fuel pumps are just the ticket. Our fuel
pumps fit in the original in-tank bracket
for ease of installation on ’92-’00 models.
The design is capable of sustained high
demand without loosing pressure.
Keep your cooling system in good shape.
Never run more than 50% anti-freeze
coolant to water ratio in the engine, if
possible. Water cools better than coolant
but does not have the high resistance to
boiling or ability to resist freezing. So you
must keep SOME antifreeze coolant in
the engine, but try to run as little as possible. If you haven’t replaced your thermostat and your car has over 30,000
miles on it, order one of our 160°F, low
temperature thermostat. It will keep the
operating temperature lower allowing better power and resistance to detonation.
The first color refers to the outer sheath
(insulation). The second color refers to
the stripe.
TIPS:
Now that you have added substantial
power to your Honda, here are some tips
for best performance and long life.
Install one of our Charge Air Induction air
filter systems. This true velocity stack
high flow filter allows air into the supercharger in much greater volumes, thus,
allowing the supercharger to produce
even more air than with a stock airbox.
For those people who want to retain their
stock airbox, install one of our “Power
Foam” air filters as a “drop-in” to your
stock air box. It will improve air volume
and will keep the air extremely clean. In
989-110
Order a set or our colder spark plugs for
summer use. This, like the thermostat,
will lower the combustion chamber temperature allowing better power and less
chance of detonation in hot climates.
Although the stock Honda exhaust sys-
-16-
Rev. 4/08/22/00
Supercharger Installation Instructions
tem is very good, a good header and catback system will help relieve any back
pressure. The easier the exhaust gets out
of the engine, the better the good air will
get in. Keep in mind, in a supercharged
engine, as the air gets through the engine
better, the boost will actually go DOWN,
but the power will go UP! So, don’t be
surprised if you start improving the intake
air and exhaust system and your boost
actually starts reading slightly lower than
it did when it was all stock. Conversely, if
your catalytic converter is starting to deteriorate, you will see higher boost than
normal, but, your engine will perform poorly.
deposit (from hard water) that collects on
the internal cooling tubes of old radiators
will actually insulate the hot coolant from
the outside air, even though the radiator
still has good coolant flow. No radiator
repair shops that we have experience
with can remove this calcium deposit.
More importantly, your stock coolant temperature gauge in your car will move to
normal when the coolant temperature
reaches a temperature near 160°F, but
your stock gauge will not show any
change or movement in temperature until
the engine coolant temperature reaches
nearly 220°F. This means that you could
be trying to operate your supercharged
engine in a hostile environment that is
60°F hotter than is ideal.
Allow the engine to warm up for at least
3-5 miles before you start working the
engine hard, longer in extremely cold
conditions as it will take a substantial
amount of time to get the oil warmed
completely to operating temperature.
Running an engine without the oil being
up to operating temperature is very hard
on your engine. Install a good oil cooler
to keep your oil from getting too hot and
from breaking down prematurely. During
our “Back to Back” SCCA Endurance
Championships, we saw over 300°F of oil
temperature in our race cars with relatively close to stock engines. It makes sense
that with the additional power you are
now generating from your supercharger,
installing an oil cooler kits will help maintain long engine life and provide additional power.
Do not run “Upgrade Chips” in your
supercharged engine. Most “chips” have
a more aggressive ignition-timing curve.
This is very counter productive in supercharged engines. Do not run an after
market camshaft with a supercharger
unless it has been specifically designed
for supercharging. Most non-supercharged high performance camshafts
depend on having both intake and exhaust valves open at the same time to
help fill the cylinders. This is also counter
productive to superchargers. Anytime that
both intake and exhaust valves are open
at the same time, the boost goes out the
exhaust port and will never be seen again.
The stock ignition system is quite good,
as it is the same ignition that is used in
all models including the Type R with
nearly 200 hp. This is not to say that
some of the aftermarket systems might
If your car has 70,000 miles or 7 years on
it, you might want to think about replacing
your old radiator with a new one from
Honda. We have found that the calcium
989-110
-17-
Rev. 4/08/22/00
Supercharger Installation Instructions
not work well. It is just an observation.
We recommend using the stock system
until you encounter a problem igniting the
mixture. Then try some of the ignitions
that are commercially available.
989-110
-18-
Rev. 4/08/22/00