f Chefs Star - StarChefs.com
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f Chefs Star - StarChefs.com
starchefs_holiday_magazine.qxd 10/31/2003 5:28 PM Page 1 StarChefsf H O L I D AY Christmas Dinner with 5 WINES Under $15 To Dress Up Your Holiday Meal Charlie Palmer Cuisine Based On American Ideals starchefs_holiday_magazine.qxd 10/31/2003 5:28 PM Page 2 Who’s news 2 WHO’S NEWS Content 4 CHEF SPOTLIGHT: A BACKSTAGE PASS TO CELEBRITY CHEFS Molto Mario Baltali, Boston’s Ana Sor tun, San Francisco’s Michael Mina 6 CHEFS TOOLBOX What you need to know to build your own home toolbox. Product reviews. 8 CELEBRATE! Chef Char lie Palmer of Aureole dresses up Christmas dinner. 10 W I N E U N C O R K E D Christmas Goose and Caber net? Choosing the right wine for your holiday celebration. 12 W I N E T I P S Sommelier Eric Scheffer shares his tips on enjoying wine 14 W H A T T O E A T A N D W H E R E T O S T A Y The food lover’s guide to South Beach 16 E N T E R T A I N I N G U Stress-free wedding tips. 19 C O O K I N G W I T H K I D S : F O O D + F A M I L Y = F U N ! Make Mexican Tor tillas with Black Beans and salsa Fresca 20 Q U I C K M E A L S Tr y this weeks menu from America’s King of the Grill, Bobby Flay 24 F O R C H O C O L A T E L O V E R ’ S O N L Y Simple but elegant Honey Chocolate Sauce 25 S W E E T S P O T Home Made Mar shmallows from Jacques Tor res 26 S T A R C H E F S 1 0 1 Braising defined. 27 S T A R C O O K B O O K S Explore Latin American Cuisine with Nor man Van Aken’s New Wor ld Kitchen. 28 A S K T H E S T A R C H E F S Emeril Lagasse, Bobby Flay, Nor man Van Aken, Marcus Samuelsson, Alice Water s 30 W H A T ’ S C O O K I N G ? Easter Br unch in The English Gardens 30 D I D Y O U K N O W ? “Appas” not tapas in Washington, DC 31 3 0 W H A T G O E S A R O U N D C O M E S A R O U N D Contaminated Food and the Environment 2 H O L I D AY I S S U E • StarChefs starchefs_holiday_magazine.qxd 10/31/2003 5:29 PM Page 3 StarChefs • H O L I D AY I S S U E 3 starchefs_holiday_magazine.qxd 10/31/2003 5:30 PM Page 4 chef spotlight Backstage pass to celebrity chefs Mario Batali New York City Chef Molto Mario - we can’t get enough from this talent. From Babbo to Esca to Lupa the cur tain draws open to reveal a magician, a kitchen, his stage, a man with skills rarely tasted in the New World or the Old. He wields a whisk rather than a wand, prefers radicchio to rabbits, cuts of meat instead of cards of deceit - yet still spor ts a quirky chapeau! Who is this conjurer of culinar y concoctions? Why Mario Batali - New York's own master chef, entrepreneur, author, and TV icon. Hooking audiences with opening productions like 'Babbo', 'Lupa', 'Esca', Super Mario has continued to awe and amaze with follow-up acts like tasty new venues, best selling books, and top-rated TV shows. What can't our culinar y magician accomplish? Let him keep it coming! 4 H O L I D AY I S S U E • StarChefs LINGUINE WITH MANILA CLAMS, PANCETTA AND HOT CHILES 2 tablespoons confectioners sugar 1/8 teaspoons grated fresh nutmeg 3 cups water 1 1/2 cups sugar 1 tablespoon lemon juice a couple of drops of rose water ADAPTED BY STARCHEFS Y ield: 4 ser vings as a main pasta cour se Ingredients: 1 pound linguine 1/2 medium red onion, finely minced 1/4 pound pancetta, cut into 1/8th inch dice 4 cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced 6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1 teaspoon crushed red chiles 1 pound Manila clams, scrubbed and rinsed 2 cups dry white wine 4 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 bunch Italian parsley, finely chopped, to yield 1/4 cup Method: Bring six quar ts of water to boil and add 2 tablespoons salt. In a large sauté pan, sauté red onion, pancetta and gar lic over medium heat until onion is ver y soft and pancetta is translucent, about 10 minutes. Add hot chiles, clams, white wine and butter and bring to a boil. Cook until all clams have opened, and then set aside. Boil linguine according to package instr uctions. While softened but still for m, drain in colander over sink and toss into plan with clams and stir gently to mix. This should still be a little broth-like. Add chopped par sley, pour into war m ser ving bowl and ser ve. A n a S o r tun Boston, MA Chef Ana Sor tun has stor med the Boston cuisine scene like it was some sor t of Bastille, hogging vir tually ever y award for her restaurant, Oleana. Perhaps the best loved French-scented celebrity in Boston since the Marquis de Lafayette back in '76, Sor tun has rocketed through the ranks of the establishment leaving all kinds of delectable treats in her wake. I guess it's up to us to clean up after her! Method: Preheat oven to 375ºF. Place kadafi in a food processor and chop up finely. Add butter and milk and line a 8-inch square heavy baking dish with half of this mixture. Mix the cheeses with the pistachios, sugar & nutmeg and spread onto shredded phyllo. Top with the remaining shredded pastr y. Bake for 45 minutes. Make a sugar syr up by boiling water with sugar and lemon juice. Cook until reduced by a third and it becomes nice and thick. Stir in rose water to taste. When kunefe comes out of the oven, ladle 2/3 of the hot syr up over it and save the rest to pass while eating . Ser ve hot. Michael Mina San Francisco, CA KUNEFE ADAPTED BY STARCHEFS Y ield: 8 ser vings Ingredients: 1/2 package shredded phyllo, also called kadafi 8 tablespoons melted butter and 1 1/2 tablespoons milk 1/4 pound fresh buffalo mozzarella, grated 12 ounces ricotta 1/2 cup ground pistachios What came fir st, a succulent salmon filet flaked to perfection or the chef who prepared it? Salmon, ser ve it as we will, always melts in our mouths. Or does it? While growing up outside Seattle, Michael Mina's mom overcooked his salmon - and quite frankly, he didn't care for it. But when finally tasting salmon as it was meant to be ser ved: ver y fresh and simply prepared, exploding with its own flavor - Chef Michael, of Aqua fame, realized he had found his calling . F ind out more about starchefs_holiday_magazine.qxd 10/31/2003 5:33 PM Page 5 500° F preheated oven for 4 minutes. In a medium saucepan warm 2 ounces butter and balsamic vinegar together until butter starts to melt. Add potatoes. Toss until warm. Warm the asparagus in medium saucepan with 1 ounce of whole butter and salt and pepper. this 'boy wonder-chef' and why his customers' mouths are watering. PAN ROASTED SALMON ADAPTED BY STARCHEFS Yield: 4 servings Ingredients: 4 5-ounce salmon filets 2 ounces olive oil 20 jumbo asparagus stalks peeled 16 grapefruit segments (2 grapefruits) 8 red bliss potatoes 2 ounces balsamic vinegar 3 ounces butter salt & pepper Method: Preheat oven to 500° F. Add asparagus to 1 gallon of boiling salted water . Blanch until tender approximately 4 minutes. Cool in cold water. Remove. In a saucepan cover potatoes in cold water with 1 tablespoon of salt. Boil until tender. Remove and cut in half. Season salmon filets on both sides with salt and pepper. Heat 2 oz of olive oil in large sauté pan. Add salmon. Cook until golden brown on both sides. Remove fat. Place in Place 5 asparagus stalks in center of plate. Place salmon on top. Place 4 potato halves and 4 grapefruit segments around plate. Drizzle 2 ounces of grapefruit vinaigrette over top. GRAPEFRUIT VINAIGRETTE ADAPTED BY STARCHEFS Yield: 2 cups Ingredients: 1 cup grapefruit juice 1/4 cup honey 3 shallots chopped fine 1 teaspoon ground coriander 9 Tablespoon pure olive oil 1 Tablespoon chopped Italian parsley salt & pepper Method: Reduce grapefruit juice by 1/2 in non-reactive pan. Pour into a bowl. Heat honey until honey starts to brown. Add to grapefruit juice. Sauté the shallots slowly in 1 Tablespoon of olive oil until translucent. Add to grapefruit mixture. Add remaining ingredients. Whisk until blended. Adjust seasonings. StarChefs • H O L I D AY I S S U E 5 starchefs_holiday_magazine.qxd 10/31/2003 5:34 PM Page 6 chefs tool box T HE E SSENTIALS Vegetable peeler Melon baller Small strainer/sifter Paring knives (usually the cheaper, disposable kinds) High quality 8" or 10" chef’s knife Large serrated knife Meat thermometer Rubber spatulas (buy two or three because they get lost; we prefer the heatproof kind) Rubber bowl scrapers Wooden spoons Ruler Hand immersion blender Mandoline Rubber cutting boards (they can be sanded for fresh surfaces) Food processor Microwave Two skillets - one 8 inches, one 12 inches, both non-stick. Two saucepans -- one small (one quart or so) one larger. A pasta pot is nice too Roasting pans and baking sheets. B EYOND StarChefs Tool Recommendations What do the pro’s use at work? At home? Chefs Toolbox spills the beans about the tools that chefs simply can't live without. Plus, create your own toolbox with the help of StarChefs Tool Recommendations. 6 H O L I D AY I S S U E • StarChefs THE B ASICS Microplane (for zesting/grating) Filet knife Steel rod (for correcting dull edges on knives) Candy thermometer (note that this is different that the standard meat thermometer: candy thermometers Need a different temperature range and need to be extremely accurate) Pastry tips and pastry bags (a box of disposable bags are the most convenient) An offset and a straight cake spatula (if you make cakes) Metal bench scraper Electric scale Large meat slicer Standing mixer A small marble counter or a piece of marble for pastry and chocolate work Silpats C HEF C HOICES MARIO BATALI (Babbo - New York City) Batali loves his good aluminum sauté pans. "They heat up fast and I can beat the hell out of them." His home kitchen isn't complete without a solid wood cutting board, his Sabatier knives, a hand held colander, and a food processor. MARCUS SAMUELSSON (Aquavit - New York City) Samuelsson always keeps a mortar and pestle handy for quick grinding. CHARLIE PALMER (Aureole - New York City) Palmer's favorite item is his non-stick pancake griddle, which he uses at home when he cooks for the kids! JODY DENTON (Merenda,- Bend, Oregon) Denton loves his microplane for grating and zesting, but warns, "Watch your fingers!" BOBBY FLAY (Bolo and Mesa Grill New York City) His favorite tools change frequently, but at the moment Flay says he loves heatproof rubber spatulas. THOMAS JOHN (Mantra, Boston) "I love to have a small electric coffee grinder on hand at all times. It allows me to fresh-grind whole spices, which we then briefly toast in a pan to further enhance their aroma," says John. starchefs_holiday_magazine.qxd 10/31/2003 5:37 PM Page 7 StarChefs • H O L I D AY I S S U E 7 starchefs_holiday_magazine.qxd 10/31/2003 5:37 PM Page 8 holiday dinner BREAST OF DUCK WITH CITRUS SAUCE AND MIXED FRUIT CHUTNEY ADAPTED BY STARCHEFS with Charlie Palmer Yield: 6 ser vings If you're looking for something to dress up your standard holiday menu, look no fur ther. Legendar y chef Charlie Palmer shares recipes for succulent sautéed duck and a delicious stuffing sure to become a favorite. celebrate Charlie Palmer's Progressive American style is holiday perfection. His approach to American food is rather simple: He seeks out the highest quality ingredients and enhances them to show food in its best light. Although creativity is a huge part of cooking, the main focus is always on taste. For a seasoned, but cutting edge chef like Palmer, continually thinking of fresh, interesting directions is a priority. If his diners have seen something before, it's just not good enough, especially for the holidays. E X C E R P T F RO M S TA R C H E F S . C O M ' S I N T E RV I E W W I T H C H A R L I E PA L M E R I N T E RV I E W B Y M E R R I L L M A I A N O , F E AT U R E S E D I TO R , S TA R C H E F S . C O M Merrill Maiano: Tell me a little bit about the things that helped to create the groundwork for your interest in local and artisanal foods? What prompted you to stick with "American" food as opposed to French, or any other kind of cuisine? Charlie Palmer: Growing up in what I consider a very American part of the country, and then being exposed to mostly French food, it just made complete sense for me to become part of a movement to create what I hope someday will become an actual "cuisine" based on American ideals. 8 H O L I D AY I S S U E • StarChefs MM: "American" food has long been looked down upon as a generic identity-less cuisine. In cooking "Progressive American" cuisine, you have done a great deal to promote the kinds of products and producers that are helping to give American food a sense of identity. How far has American food come since you started cooking? Do you think "Progressive American" has come of age? CP: I think we've made great advances in many ways. Probably most importantly, we've made advancements in the quality of ingredients and the commitment of artisanal producers. I think Progressive American cooking has certainly become important and recognized at this point. Enjoy y our holidays and don't forget to tr y the Savor y Tur key Hash the next day! Ingredients: 2 pounds duck bones 1 cup white wine ½ cup carrots, hopped ½ cup celery, chopped ½ cup shallots, chopped 1 Tablespoon parsley, minced 1 teaspoon ginger, minced 2 bay leaves 3 Tablespoons Cointreau 2 cups chicken broth 2 cups orange juice 6 large boneless duck breasts, skin on 1 teaspoon chives, minced ½ teaspoon orange zest, grated 2 Tablespoons butter Method: Preheat oven to 375°F. Cut bones into 2-inch pieces. Place them in roasting pan in oven and roast, stirring occasionally, 30 minutes. Remove bones from pan and place in large sauce pot. Deglaze roasting pan while still hot, by adding ½ cup wine. Stir constantly, scraping bottom to release flavorful bits and wine has almost evaporated. Scrape pan remains into large sauce pot with roasted bones. Add carrots, celery, shallots, parsley, ginger and bay leaves and sauté 4 minutes. Stir in remaining ½ cup of wine and Cointreau and bring to boil. Add chicken broth and juice along with salt and pepper to taste and again bring to boil. Lower starchefs_holiday_magazine.qxd 10/31/2003 heat and simmer about 40 minutes or until liquid has reduced to 1 ½ cups. Remove from heat and strain through fine sieve into small saucepan, discarding solids. Score skin of duck breasts into a cross-hatch pattern. Season both sides with salt and pepper. Heat large heavy-bottomed sauté pan over medium heat. When very hot, add duck breasts, skin side down. Cook, draining off excess fat from time to time, 14 minutes or until most fat is rendered out and skin is nicely browned and crisp. You may have to turn down heat to keep skin from burning. Turn and cook 3 minutes or until meat is cooked to medium (155°F) and still moist in center. Just before duck is ready, heat sauce over medium heat. Add chives and orange zest and bring to simmer. Whisk in butter. Taste and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. Lower heat enough to just keep sauce warm. To Serve: Using a very sharp knife, cut duck breasts, on the bias, into thin slices. Fan each breast, if desired, over cous cous or mashed sweet potatoes, with sauce spooned over top. 5:39 PM Page 9 DRIED FRUIT AND NUT BREAD STUFFING SAVORY TURKEY HASH ADAPTED BY STARCHEFS ADAPTED BY STARCHEFS Yield: 6 servings Yield: enough stuffing for 1 (1620 pound) turkey Ingredients: 12 cups dried white and/or whole wheat bread cubes ½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter 1 cup diced onion ¼ cup diced celery 1 Tablespoon minced fresh parsley 1 ½ cups diced dried apricots ½ cup yellow raisins ~2 cups warm turkey stock, chicken broth or water 1 Tablespoon poultry seasoning 1 teaspoon chopped fresh sage 1 teaspoon chopped thyme 1 teaspoon chopped marjoram kosher salt freshly ground black pepper 1- 1½ cups toasted walnut or pecan pieces Method: Preheat the oven to 375°F. If not stuffing a bird, lightly grease a large shallow baking dish or a large casserole. Set aside. Place the bread cubes in a large mixing bowl. Heat the butter in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the onions, celery and parsley. Lower the heat and sauté for 10 minutes or until the vegetables are very soft but not browned. Add the apricots and raisins and sauté for an additional 3 minutes. Add 1 cup of the stock, poultry seasoning, sage, thyme and marjoram and cook for 3 minutes. Ingredients: 3 Tablespoons olive oil 1½ cups shredded cooked potatoes 1 cup chopped onion ¼ cup chopped red bell pepper 1 head roasted garlic 1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme 1 teaspoon minced fresh sage 4 cups chopped cooked turkey meat 1- 1½ cups leftover turkey gravy Method: Preheat the oven to 375°F. Heat the oil in a heavy oven-proof frying pan (cast iron is great) over medium heat. Add the potatoes, onions and bell pepper and sauté for about 5 minutes or until the potatoes are beginning to take on some color and the onions and bell pepper are very soft. Stir in the roasted garlic, thyme and sage and sauté for another minute. Add the turkey and enough turkey gravy to moisten nicely and stir until well-combined. Using a spatula, pack the hash down into the pan. Place in the preheated oven and bake for 20 minutes or until the bottom is brown and the top is nicely crusted. Remove from the oven and allow to rest for 5 minutes. Cut into wedges and serve. Breast of Duck with Citrus Sauce and Mixed Fruit JAN BIRNBAUM Catahoula - Calistoga, CA Cut the bird in parts to cook it. This reduces cooking time dramatically. Bone the breast completely, TIP then remove the legs and thighs together. That leaves the backbone, which I roast with the rest because it is the perfect snack. #1 PAUL KAHAN Blackbird - Chicago, IL Don't let carry-over cooking ruin your bird. Poultry needs to be cooked to 150ºF to be considered safe to eat. If you leave it in the oven and allow it to cook to a temperature much higher than that, you risk a dry TIP over-cooked turkey. Take the bird out when it reaches 145ºF (but not lower) and let it continue to "cook" while it rests outside of the oven. #2 SAM HAYWARD Fore Street - Portland, ME Effective brining improves the texture of turkey, especially in the breast meat. Brining has become a popular method of preparing turkeys, but many brine recipes are too light to produce the result they promise. Combine 12 oz. kosher salt and 27 oz. sugar in a clean stockpot. Add enough cold water to make 5 gallons of brine, and stir to dissolve the sugar and salt. TIP Remove giblets from turkey breast. Immerse turkey breast and legs in brine, weight with a ceramic plate to keep fully submerged, and cure turkey in refrigerator about 8 hours. #3 Pour the mixture over the bread cubes, tossing to combine well. Add salt and pepper to taste and enough warm stock to make a moist but not wet mixture. Toss in the nuts. Either use the mixture to stuff a bird (see note below) or place into the prepared baking dish or casserole and place in the preheated oven. Bake for about 35 minutes or until the top is crusty and the stuffing is hot in the center. tips turkey BRADLEY OGDEN The Lark Creek Inn - Larkspur, CA For a flavorful turkey, place the stuffing inside the bird and place whole fresh sage leaves and melted butter underneath the skin. Preheat oven to 525ºF and roast turkey 25 minutes. This will give the skin a beautiful golden color and a crisp texture. Then, TIP turn the heat down to 250ºF and continue to cook approximately ½ hour per pound. #4 Savory Turkey Hash StarChefs • H O L I D AY I S S U E 9 starchefs_holiday_magazine.qxd 10/31/2003 5:40 PM Page 10 StarChefs uncorked Christmas Goose and Caber net?: Choose the perfect wines to complement your holiday feast By Kylene Keith Good food and good wine go hand in hand during the holidays. It's criminal to slave over a hot stove without the reward of a delicious wine to savor with the fruits of your culinar y labor. The holidays can be stressful, though, and the last thing the cook wants to think about is the wine when there are roasts and soufflés to worr y about. We've done all of the planning for you and compiled a list of our top wine choices to ser ve with dishes perfect for spring suppers. Even better, all of the wines on our list cost $15 or less. The upcoming holidays provide a good excuse to experiment with new and interesting wines, and we think that this list is a good place to star t. 1. E. Guigal Cotes du Rhone 2000 Rhone, France $9.95 This is a fabulous wine to have on hand for those occasions when you want a red wine with ripe fr uit flavor s and an ear thy quality. It is well-balanced with enough body and str ucture to handle this leg of lamb. Made from one of the top producer s in the Rhone Valley, this wine is a crowd-pleaser and a musthave for any holiday meal. RECIPE PAIRING: M A R K PEEL’S THE BEST LEG OF LAMB 2. Paringa Shiraz 2001 Australia $10.95 It doesn't get much bigger or bolder than this Australian Shiraz for under $15. It has 10 H O L I D AY I S S U E • StarChefs the luscious fr uit, the smoky meatiness, and the exotic spice to rival many wines costing twice as much. Shiraz is a good choice for full-flavored meats such as beef and dar k game. This dish by Jody Adams is overflowing with robust flavor s and needs a big and bold wine with equally powerful flavor s. Syrah is a grape that is often described as pepper y both on the nose and the palate. The black pepper sauce will accentuate these characteristics and unite the entire meal. RECIPE PAIRING: JODY ADAMS’ PROVENÇAL-BRAISED BEEF WITH ORANGE AND BLACK OLIVES starchefs_holiday_magazine.qxd 10/31/2003 5:41 PM Page 11 3. Mionetto Prosecco di Valdobbiandene NV Veneto, Italy $14.59 A list of holiday wines wouldn't be complete without a spar kling wine. This crisp and lively Prosecco has an enticing floral aroma with distinct hints of citr us and apricot. It's fr uity and refreshing and ser ves as a delightful aperitif. Spar kling wine is also an especially good match for any type of fried food. The effer vescent nature wakes up your palate and acts as a great foil for deepfried delights. RECIPE PAIRING: E M E R I L LAGASSE'S FRIED OYSTERS WITH TOMATO CORN SAUCE Livio Felluga Pinot Grigio 2001 Venezia, Italy $17.99 This is a Pinot Grigio like no other. It's full-bodied, rich and complex. Let it sit in the glass for a few minutes and aromas of peaches and oranges will slowly emerge. The peach and orange aromas are confir med on the palate with a touch of nuttiness and a gorgeous caramel finish. This is a stunning wine for richer seafood dishes or poultr y. RECIPE PAIRING: B R A D L E Y OGDEN'S BUTTER BASTED ROAST TURKEY BV Rutherford Caber net Sauvignon 1999 Napa Valley, Califor nia $18.99 This Califor nia Caber net is powerful and concentrated with flavor s of black cher ries, blackber ries and a touch of mint. This full-bodied wine has ripe tannins and a long , elegant finish. The oak lends some vanilla spice without being too over powering . It's a fantastic choice to pair with dar k game, beef, lamb and cheeses. RECIPE PAIRING: D A R I N A ALLEN'S MICHAELMAS GOOSE WITH TRADITIONAL POTATO & APPLE STUFFING FOR THESE AND OTHER RECIPES GO TO WWW.STARCHEFS.COM StarChefs • H O L I D AY I S S U E 11 starchefs_holiday_magazine.qxd 10/31/2003 5:42 PM Page 12 4. USE WINE TO SET THE MOOD. WHAT IS THE OCCA S I O N ? Romance = Wine Champagne; Comfor t, War mth, Power = Caber net Sauvignon; Hot Summer Days, Casual = Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc. tips Wine of the month 5. BE WEATHER CON SCIOUS. REDS IN WINTER, W H I T E S I N S U M M E R . But you don't always have to stick to the r ules. A nice summer night complete with poultr y and Pinot Noir, for example. 6. WHEN STORING WINES THE RULES WORK. 58-60 D E G R E E C E L L A R S . Always on their sides. Always ser ve wines at proper temperatures. If you have to, it's ok to put your reds in the refrigerator 15 minutes ahead of time to give them a nice place to star t. with Eric Scheffer 7. I PERSONALLY COLLECT WINES THAT HAVE A SHELF L I F E O F 5 - 1 5 Y E A R S . Stick 1. CONSULT YOUR FAVORITE WINE SHOP OR L O C A L R E S T A U R A N T . Stay with the independents. They are the ones who will take the time to get to know you and your likes and dislikes. Be honest and let them know your wine knowledge. We love to help create more wine drinker s. 2. HAVE A PRICE POINT IN MIND. YOU CAN FIND G O O D , D R I N K A B L E wines in any price range. Expensive does not always mean better. to names that have stood the test of time: Araujo, Har lan, Tur ley, Gaja, Conter no, Trinoro, Penfolds Grange, Grand Cr u Bordeaux, and Catena Zapata. Have fun with other wines that you will pull out within 1-5 year s. 8. REMEMBER, HAVE FUN. YOU CAN'T MAKE A MIS TAKE AND YOU DON'T HAVE TO SPEND A LOT OF M O N E Y . Ask, ask, ask - tr ue wine lover s love to educate and are ver y helpful. Become friends with your local wine shop owner. 3. GO OFF THE BEATEN P A T H . Look for gems from South America, Italy, Australia, and Spain. Wines from these regions are generally great buys. 12 H O L I D AY I S S U E • StarChefs Eric Scheffer is the owner and sommelier of Savoy Cucina Italiana in Asheville, Nor th Carolina Ernest and Julio Gallo Tw i n Va l l ey White Zinfandel Description This Califor nian wine is light, pink and has pleasant floral aromas, fresh strawber r y and juicy peach flavor s, and a delicate finish. Food & Wine Suggestion White Zinfandels are ver satile enough to be enjoyed with just about any dish. Tr y it with a range of fare from tur key to chicken salad or enjoy it with simple appetizer s such as br uschetta or oyster s on the half shell. QUESTION: Is White Zinfandel made from red or white grapes? Submit your answer at www.starchefs.com/wineofthemonth The fir st cor rect entr y drawn will win a bottle of the Ernest and Julio Gallo Twin Valley White Zinfandel. Usual contest rules apply. starchefs_holiday_magazine.qxd 10/31/2003 5:42 PM Page 13 StarChefs • H O L I D AY I S S U E 13 starchefs_holiday_magazine.qxd 10/31/2003 5:44 PM Page 14 what to eat and where to stay: SouthBeach A FOOD LOVER'S GUIDE TO What to do: Soak up the sun on the rooftop patio, take a dip in the emerald-shaped pool, or get a massage in one of the poolside cabanas. Details: 801 Collins Avenue, Miami Beach, Florida 33139. Tel: 305.531.2222, 877.THEHOTEL / 877.843.4683; Fax: 305.531.3222; www.thehotelofsouthbeach.com. Credit Cards: AM, DC, MC, V, Diner's Club. Par king: 24hour Valet ser vice: $18; Selfpar king (1 block from hotel): $10.70. The Hotel Miami is the countr y's hottest new culinar y oasis. Go to the hear t of the action with this stellar lineup of hotels and restaurants in South Beach. HOTELS T H E H O T E L (for mer ly The Tiffany Hotel) is the place for the fashion-conscious to see and be seen. The Hotel is the pet project of fashion designer Todd Oldham, former fashion industr y executive Jessica Goldman Srebnick, and father Tony Goldman, an urban developer and preser vationist. The Hotel is a hip hangout with a great location - one block from Ocean Drive's strip of restaurants and bar s, and one block from the ocean. Rates: 1/1/03 - 4/30/03: $275; 5/1/03 - 12/20/03: $255 Rooms: 53 units 14 H O L I D AY I S S U E • StarChefs The Sagamore Hotel T H E A S T O R is a chic boutique hotel that prides itself on its relaxing ambiance - the double-insulated walls, down pillows, muted color scheme, and mood lighting with dimmer switches ensure a serene and luxurious escape from the stresses of ever yday life. The Astor is also easy on the pocketbook, with some of the lowest rates in the South Beach area. Rates: 1/1/03 - 4/19/03: $165; 4/20/03 - 5/31/03: $155; 6/1/03 - 10/15/03: $145; 10/16/03 12/27/03: $155; Additional per son: $30 Rooms: 40 units What to do: Sink into the luxurious down pillows and dream away. Details: 956 Washington Avenue, Miami Beach, Florida 33139. Tel: 305.531.8081; Fax: 305.531.3193; www.hotelastor.com. Credit Cards: AM, MC, V, Diner's Club. Par king: 24-hour Valet ser vice: $20. If your idea of an ideal vacation involves rolling out of bed and onto the beach, head to T H E W I N T E R H A V E N H O T E L , located directly across the street from the ocean. Most of the guest rooms offer ocean views, so even if you're seeking respite from the searing Miami sun, you can still enjoy that view. The WinterHaven's Ar t Decoinspired interior and streamlined design are reminiscent of Miami's high style, highluxur y era of the 1930s. Rates: 1/1/03 - 1/31/03: $139; 2/1/03 - 4/15/03: $149; 4/16/03 - 6/1/03: $109; 6/2/03 - 10/31/03: $99; 11/1/03 - 12/29/03: $139 Rooms: 65 units What to do: Head out the door and hit the beach, or relax in the comfor t of your room and enjoy the view. Details: 1400 Ocean Drive, Miami Beach, Florida 33139. Tel: 305.531.5571, 800.395.2322; Fax: 305.538.6387; www.winterhavenhotelsobe.com. Credit Cards: AM, DC, MC, V, Diner's Club. Par king: 24-hour Valet ser vice: $18. T H E S A G A M O R E H O T E L is a chic, trendy boutique hotel with an eye for moder n ar t and a crisp minimalist aesthetic. The Sagamore has its own moder n ar t and photography galler y, as well as paintings and sculptures in just about ever y room on the proper ty. From the pool there is a dazzling view of both surf and sky - The Sagamore Hotel is located directly on the water, though it is a bit of a walk from the main drag . Rates: 1/1/03 - 5/31/03: $300; 6/1/03 - 10/31/03: $225; 11/1/03 - 12/31/03: $300 Rooms: 93 units What to do: Unwind in your whir lpool bath-shower - located in ever y room - or check out the famous "Ocean Front Zero-Entr y Infinity Edge Pool." Details: 1671 Collins Avenue, Miami, Florida 33139. Tel: 305.535.8088; Fax: 305.535.8185; www.sagamorehotel.com. Credit Cards: AM, DC, MC, V, Diner's Club. Par king: 24-hour Valet ser vice: $20. starchefs_holiday_magazine.qxd 10/31/2003 R E S TA U R A N T S M E T R O K I T C H E N , located in The Astor hotel, is an experience unto itself, showcasing Chef Rob Boone's latest creations through an exquisite menu with elegant presentation. The food: Chef Rob Boone prepares fresh and tasty Asian-inspired fare. Recommended dishes: Duck breast and Leg with Grilled Apples and Fresh Spinach; Local Snapper with Wood Bar reled Soy, Tuna Belly with Fresh Hor seradish; Steamed Snapper with Udon Noodles and XO. 305.672.6717 R U M I feels like an upscale disco, with a trendy clientele and huge lights suspended from the ceiling . If you're interested in the South Beach scene, this is the place to check out. The food: Rumi is the place to go if you're ready to par ty - and have tasty snacks along the way. Recommended dishes: Salmon Tar tar with Key Limes, Black Olives and Crispy Potato Sticks; Key Lime Tar t with Brazil Nut Cr ust; Stone Crab Salad with Roast Tomato, Tomato Jelly, Baby Mustard Greens and Mustardy Crème Fraîche; Lobster Bisque. 305.627.4353 L A B R O C H E and Chef Angel Palacios are relative newcomer s to the South Beach dining scene. Dining at this 5:46 PM Page 15 restaurant is an experience this is not a repeat of the Chilean Sea Bass prepared for the umpteenth time. The food: Each dish is delicately prepared with creativity and precision, from the cocktail to the desser t. Recommended dishes: Eggplant Soup with Cheese Foam and Tomato Sauce; Mojama with Bread and Tomato; Gratin Mushrooms; Rockfish with Sautéed Spring Onions and Pink Pepper ; Por k Cheeks and Sautéed Vegetables; Coffee with Milk and Almond Muffins with Butter. 305.415.0070 N E M O Chef Michael Sabin and Pastr y Chef Hedy Goldsmith are a dream team, packing a one-two punch that satisfies both sweet and savor y cravings to the fullest. The food: The menu's savor y selections, each as appetizing as the next, are balanced by equally appealing desser t offerings. Recommended dishes: Gar lic Cured Salmon Rolls; Crispy Prawn Salad; Spicy V ietnamese Beef Salad; Whole Pompano with Lemongrass; White Chocolate Cream and Bing Cher r y Napoleon; Meyer Lemon Trio. 305.532.4550 A Z U L Chef Michelle Ber nstein adventurous menu shows a broad ar ray of wor ld culinar y influences. The food: From Malaysia (Cur r y Stewed Vegetables) to Korea (kim chee) to Italy (Sicilian Olive-Tomato Sec and Polenta), the menu is exciting and diver se. Recommended dishes: "Shor t Rib Burger" with Tr uffle Fries; Duck Confit; Foie Gras Torchon. 305.913.8258 B I S C A Y A G R I L L has elegant cuisine and impeccable ser vice (there are even little stool for pur ses). The food: Chef Willis Loughhead, the master mind behind the food, ser ved his ver sion of classic, Frenchinspired fare with grace and creativity. Recommended dishes: Seared Foie Gras on Caramelized Pear, with a taste of "Doktorenhof" vinegar ; Smoked Duck with Rabbit Confit; Grand Mar nier Soufflé. 305.644.4675 W I S H , The Hotel's restaurant, and one of Miami's hottest new culinar y additions. Chef Michael Reidt combines French-Brazilian food with Per sian-inspired décor and a lush, garden setting . The food: Reidt's menu has a lot of unusual selections, like quinoa, seared water melon, avocado hollandaise, and his Blueber r y-Lemon Thyme Glaze. Recommended dishes: Braised Beef Shor t Rib "Chur rasco;" Rioja Braised Veal Cheeks; Peekytoe Crab Salad; Winter Squash Soup; Tr uffled Taro Root Ravioli with braised "rabada" (oxtail). 305.531.2222 Wish StarChefs • H O L I D AY I S S U E 15 starchefs_holiday_magazine.qxd P L A N N I N G A 10/31/2003 5:46 PM Page 16 Wedding entertaining U no-mess, no-stress By Siobhan Flaher ty and Jane Miller Renner t 1. D O U B L E C H E C K E V E R Y T H I N G . Call all of your major vendor s (caterer, photographer, band, etc.) at regular inter vals just to check in monthly or bi-monthly if you're planning a year or more ahead, but in the final weeks tr y to touch base weekly. Even if you don't have anything new to tell them going over the details again and again will ensure that any miscommunications will be caught ahead of time and you will know ever y detail by hear t as you approach the big day. KNOW WHEN TO GIVE I N . We're not sure why, but 2. We may be a bit jaded, but we still get misty when we witness two people pledging their commitment in front of those that they care about. Weddings are not just a rite of passage; a wedding is the ultimate way to demonstrate love and (in our minds) an excuse to throw the biggest, most extravagant and most expensive par ty you will ever have. Planning your wedding can be the most wonderful and the most stressful experience imaginable. There's something about weddings that unear ths the most deep seeded insecurities in otherwise happy and content people. Ever yone has heard hor ror stories about brides who go off the deep end and become raving &!@!$#*&!@!!! on their wedding day. (In our wedding planning experience we've never seen such a creature, but if, in fact, they do exist we are sure they are driven to it by some over ly demanding future in-law.) There's already so much written about the nuts and bolts of how to plan a wedding (how to create a budget, when to hire the band, how to do the seating char t, etc.), so the following tips are more for your general peace of mind and to help you to feel confident and in control on your wedding day. 16 H O L I D AY I S S U E • StarChefs weddings tend to bring out the wor st in people, especially the parents of the bride and groom. Choose your battles wisely. Don't compromise on the things that are MOST impor tant to you, but bend a little on less impor tant issues to make your future in-laws happy. Remember, your wedding is one day, but you have to live with these people for the rest of your (or their) lives. 3. S H A R E T H E J O Y . Not to per petuate male stereotypes, but we find grooms frequently do not want to par take in the wedding planning process! Do not expect anyone, even your future spouse, to be willing to discuss chicken ver sus salmon or lilies of the valley ver sus roses for eight hour s a day. However, dividing up the tasks, sharing half the responsibility each, will ease the burden. 4. S T A Y O N B U D G E T . Before you even begin planning you need to figure out how much money you can comfor tably spend and a rough estimation of how many people will attend. This will help you to intelligently deter mine ever y choice you make about your wedding . Once you've figured out your budget stick to it. Though $10,000 wor th of flower s decorating the aisle may sound beautiful, it's not wor th being indebted to your credit card company for the next 10 year s. Remember, you and your spouse may want to buy a house or have children in the future. YOU CAN'T CONTROL T H E W E A T H E R . In other 5. words, not ever y detail of the event will tur n out the way you envisioned it. It may pour ; your brother may get too dr unk to give a toast (or wor se he gives the toast anyway); the cake may be yellow, not "cream"; you may trip during your fir st dance. There isn't much you can do to prevent these sor ts of problems from arising , but your reaction to these problems will make a big difference. If you have a great sense of humor and focus on enjoying the day so will your guests. starchefs_holiday_magazine.qxd 10/31/2003 5:47 PM Page 17 StarChefs • H O L I D AY I S S U E 17 starchefs_holiday_magazine.qxd 18 H O L I D AY I S S U E • StarChefs 10/31/2003 5:48 PM Page 18 starchefs_holiday_magazine.qxd 10/31/2003 5:50 PM Page 19 K¦d Cooking with F O O D + F A M I LY = F U N ! MEXICAN TORTILLAS WITH BLACK BEANS AND SALSA FRESCA From Cooking Time is Family Time by Lynn Fredericks, William Mor row, August 1999 ADAPTED BY STARCHEFS Y ield: 8 tor tillas This is a recipe I learned from a Mexican mom who came to P.S. 61 to demonstrate the preparation of homemade corn tor tillas. It seemed miraculous to the children and me that the fine yellow masa four mixed with just a bit of water would, within a few seconds, be transformed into yummy tor tillas to fill with whatever we chose. The only tricky par t about making tortillas is to be sure to get the consistency of the dough just right. It will just take practice, trial and er ror. Mas harina flour is inexpensive just as wheat flour. It is available in Latin markets or, since blue corn masa is increasingly available in health and specialty stores, you can buy blue corn masa - they make wonderful tor tillas. Masa flour is not the same as cornmeal; cornmeal is not ground finely enough for tor tillas. Ingredients: For the Tor tillas: 1-1/2 cup and two Tablespoons water 1 cup masa harina For the Beans: 1/4 cup olive oil 2 cans black beans, drained 2 teaspoon dry epazote or oregano Kosher salt to taste For the Salsa Fresca: 2 tomatoes, diced 1/3 bunch scallions 1 small bunch cilantro, minced Kosher salt to taste Gar nish: Shredded lettuce and grated Monterey Jack cheese (optional) Equipment: Tortilla press or plastic wrap covering a cutting board and a bottom of a large and heavy pot wrapped in plastic wrap To make the tor tillas: 1. Have children place masa and the one and one-half water in a mixing bowl. Mix well, adding 1 tablespoon more water as needed until mixture for ms a dough. Now have the children divide the dough into 8 equal little balls. This offer s a great math lesson in fractions. Star t out with the dough in one large ball. Next help kids to cut it in half, then cut the halves in one half and so for th until you have 8 equal pieces. Now let the kids roll each piece into a ball. Press each ball into the tor tilla maker between sheets of plastic (or place ball on covered board and press down with bottom of covered pot). Cover the remaining dough to keep moist. Continue this process until all 8 tor tillas are made, lining them up individually on a cutting board or counter. 2. Heat a large skillet - cast iron if possible. Gently remove one tor tilla at a time and cook in the ungreased skillet for about 20 seconds on each side - do this three times. Cover finished tortillas to keep them war m. To make the filling: In a medium-sized saucepan, place the oil and heat over medium-high heat. Let the children help you open the cans of beans, with parents removing the shar p lids. Let kids pour the beans (do not drain) directly from the can into the pot with oil. Add seasonings. If you don't have epazote (an herb which is available dried in Latino groceries) use dried oregano. Cook until soft, gently mashing the beans with a wooden spoon. To make the salsa fresca: 1. Have older children help dice tomatoes and chop the scallions with super vision. Meanwhile, have little ones pluck the cilantro leaves from their stems and tear the leaves into tiny pieces, discarding stems. 2. Next have kids combine tomatoes, scallions and cilantro in a mixing bowl and combine thoroughly. Season to taste with kosher salt. To ser ve: Have each family member spoon some beans inside their tor tilla, top with shredded lettuce, salsa fresca and even some grated cheese, if they so desire. StarChefs • H O L I D AY I S S U E 19 starchefs_holiday_magazine.qxd 10/31/2003 5:52 PM Page 20 Quick MEALS This week, StarChefs brings Bobby Flay to your kitchen. RECIPES: MONDAY EAR-SHAPED PASTA WITH MORELS, GREEN PEAS, AND SWEET ONIONS TUESDAY PAN-FRIED RAINBOW TROUT WITH PECANS AND BROWN BUTTER SEARED CHICKEN BREAST WITH BLACK PEPPER-SWEET MUSTARD GLAZE WEDNESDAY PAN-ROASTED FILET MIGNON WITH RUM-RED CHILE SAUCE THURSDAY BLACK BEAN RISOTTO FRIDAY This flaming red-haired boy from Manhattan knew at a tender age that he had a knack for making food taste vibrant and wasted no time delving into a culinar y career. A graduate of the French Culinar y Institute, Bobby Flay is the owner of Mesa Grill and Bolo Restaurant in New York City. He appears regularly on CBS's The Early Show and Hot Off the Grill with Bobby Flay and FoodNation on the Food Network. With Bobby as your guide, get cooking! 20 H O L I D AY I S S U E • StarChefs M EAR-SHAPED PASTA WITH MORELS, GREEN PEAS, AND SWEET ONIONS O Bobby Flay Cooks American by Bobby Flay, Hyperion 2001 N ADAPTED BY STARCHEFS D Y ield: 4 ser vings A Ingredients: olive oil Y 31 tablespoons pound fresh mushrooms (you can use white buttons, criminis, morels or a mix of mushrooms) 2 sweet onions, such as Vidalia, peeled, halved, and thinly sliced 1 cup dry white wine 2 cups canned vegetable stock 1 cup fresh or thawed frozen peas 1 pound ear shaped pasta, cooked until just slightly underdone and drained 1 cup pasta water reserved 2 tablespoons each finely chopped fresh mint and flat-leaf parsley 1/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese, plus extra for serving Method: Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over high heat. Add the mushrooms, season with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring , until lightly browned. Transfer to a plate. Add the onions to the pan and cook, stir ring , until soft. Add the wine and cook until all the liquid evaporates. Add the vegetable stock and cook until reduced by half. Add the peas and cook for 2 minutes. Whisk in the butter and season with salt and pepper. Add the pasta to the pan along with the mushrooms, herbs, and cheese, and stir until combined, adding some of the reser ved pasta liquid if needed. Cover and cook over low heat for 2 minutes. Ser ve with more grated cheese. T PAN-FRIED RAINBOW TROUT WITH PECANS AND BROWN BUTTER U Bobby Flay Cooks American by Bobby Flay, Hyperion 2001 E ADAPTED BY STARCHEFS S Y ield: 4 ser vings D Ingredients: all pur pose flour A 23 cups large eggs Y 3 tablespoons milk 2 4 6 2 cups cor nmeal, preferably white trout fillets tablespoons vegetable oil sticks (8 ounces) unsalted butter Grated zest and freshly squeezed juice of 2 lemons 1/2 cup finely chopped pecans 1/4 cup finely chopped flat-leaf par sley Salt and freshly ground pepper Method: Place the flour in a bowl and season with salt and pepper. Whisk the eggs and milk together in a large bowl and season with salt and pepper. Place the cor nmeal in a bowl and season with salt and pepper. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees Fahrenheit. Season the fillets with salt and pepper to taste. One at a time, dip each piece into the flour, then in the egg mixture, then in the cor nmeal. Set aside on a rack. F inish breading trout. Heat 3 tablespoons of the oil in a large skillet until smoking . Wor king in batches to avoid crowding the pan, cook the trout until just golden brown on both sides (it will finish cooking later in the recipe). When half of the pieces have been cooked, add the remaining oil and heat it almost to smoking before continuing . As the pieces are browned, transfer them to a large baking sheet. When all the W E D N E S D A Y starchefs_holiday_magazine.qxd 10/31/2003 pieces are browned, place the baking sheet in the oven and bake 5-6 minutes, until just cooked through. While the trout is baking , make the brown butter : Melt the butter in a nonstick skillet over medium high heat. Watching carefully and lowering the heat if necessar y, let the butter foam up and tur n golden brown. When the white milk solids brown and the butter smells nutty, immediately stir in the lemon juice, zest, and salt and pepper to taste. Stir in the pecans and par sley. To ser ve, place the trout on ser ving plates and pour the hot browned butter over. Ser ve immediately. W SEARED CHICKEN BREAST WITH BLACK PEPPER-SWEET MUSTARD E GLAZE Flay Cooks American D Bobby by Bobby Flay, Hyperion 2001 N ADAPTED BY STARCHEFS E Y ield: 4 ser vings S Ingredients: 1/4 cup Dijon mustard D 2 tablespoons whole grain mustard 2 tablespoons honey A 2 tablespoons coarsely cracked black pepper Y 2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh thyme 2 pound bone-in and skin-on chicken breasts Salt Method: Make the glaze: Combine the mustards, honey, black pepper, and thyme in a medium bowl and season with salt. T H U R S D A Y 5:54 PM Page 21 PAN-ROASTED FILET MIGNON WITH RUM-RED CHILE SAUCE From my Kitchen to your Table by Bobby Flay, Clar kson Potter 1998 ADAPTED BY STARCHEFS Y ield: 4 ser vings Ingredients: 1 tablespoon butter 2 shallots, minced 1/2 tablespoon minced garlic 1/2 cup Meyers's dark rum 2 cups chicken stock 1 tablespoon ancho puree 1 tablespoon molasses 4 filet mignon steaks, about 8 ounces each 1 tablespoon butter Salt and pepper Method: Melt the butter in a saucepan over medium-high heat and sweat the shallots and gar lic. Add the r um, bring to a boil, and reduce to 1/3 cup. Add the stock, bring to a boil, and reduce the heat. Whisk in the remaining ingredients until reduced to 2 cups. May be refrigerated up to 2 days; reheat with a little water and re-season. Preheat the oven to 450 degrees and season the steaks to taste with salt and pepper. In an ovenproof skillet or sauté pan over medium heat, melt the butter and seat the steaks on one side about 3 minutes. Place in the oven and cook until desired doneness. Place the steaks on a ser ving platter and drizzle with the r um-red chile sauce. Ser ve any extra sauce on the side. Make the chicken: Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Heat a medium ovenproof skillet over high heat until almost smoking . Season the breast on both sides with salt and pepper. Place the breast skin-side down in the pan and cook until the skin is golden brown. Drain off the fat. Tur n the breast over, place the pan in the oven, and continue cooking until no pink remains, about 12-15 minutes. As soon as the chicken comes out of the oven, br ush it liberally with the mustard glaze. Let rest for about 10 minutes then slice the meat and ser ve immediately. • H O L I D AY I S S U E 21 starchefs_holiday_magazine.qxd 10/31/2003 5:57 PM Page 22 QuickMEALS THIS WEEK’S SHOPPING LIST: BLACK BEAN RISOTTO F From My Kitchen To Your Table R by Bobby Flay, Clar kson Potter ADAPTED BY STARCHEFS I D A Y 1998 PRODUCE 2 1 lemons lb.Mushrooms (mix as you please) Spanish onion sweet onions (Vidalia) shallots head garlic tube ancho puree tube or can (specialty grocer) bunch parsley bunch mint bunch thyme 1 2 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 Y ield: 4 ser vings Ingredients: 2 1/2 cups canned chicken stock 1/2 cup white wine 2 tablespoons butter 1/2 large Spanish onion, diced 1/2 head of raw garlic, minced 1 cup Arborio rice 1 1/2 cups drained canned black beans 1 tablespoon honey 2 tablespoons chopped green onions 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro leaves 2 tablespoons Parmesan cheese Salt and pepper DRY 8 1 1 1 32 16 1 1 1 2 1 oz. pecans jar Dijon mustard jar whole grain mustard jar Honey Molasses ounces chicken stock ounces vegetable stock can black beans one pkg peas (fresh, frozen or can) pkg Arborio rice cup corn meal box ear shaped pasta Method: Combine the stock and wine in a saucepan over medium-high heat and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium and keep the broth simmering . Melt the butter in a large pot over medium-high heat and sweat the onion and gar lic. Add the rice and toss to coat with the butter. Cook the rice until lightly toasted. DAIRY 1 lb. Butter 10 oz parmesan cheese Milk Add 1 cup of stock and cook, stir ring , until it is absorbed. Repeat with a second cup. As the rice becomes dr y, add stock in ½ cup increments, cooking and stir ring until it is absorbed. MEAT lbs. Chicken breast trout filets steaks (filet or ribeye) bottle white wine (s. blanc or chardonnay When the rice is about three-quar ter s cooked, mix in the beans, honey, green onions, and cilantro. Continue cooking , adding broth as needed, until al dente and creamy, with a little liquid in the bottom of the pot. 2 4 4 1 22 H O L I D AY I S S U E • StarChefs Season to taste with salt and pepper and stir in the Par mesan cheese. Pour onto a large platter and ser ve immediately. starchefs_holiday_magazine.qxd 10/31/2003 5:57 PM Page 23 StarChefs • H O L I D AY I S S U E 23 starchefs_holiday_magazine.qxd 10/31/2003 5:58 PM Page 24 ChocolateLovers FOR O N LY Hi! My name is Stephanie Zonis, and welcome to this week's edition of "For Chocolate Lovers Only". Ever y week, you'll find recipes, tips, and recommendations on great chocolate specialties. Let's get into the kitchen with this week's recipe for We n d y ' s H o n e y - C h o c o l a t e S a u c e ! 24 H O L I D AY I S S U E • StarChefs First, a note about my wonderful friend Wendy. She is a truly amazing woman who lives in a world that revolves around rare books/manuscripts, medieval music, cats, her charming fiancé, and good food-especially good chocolate. She kept telling me that she had a recipe for a garlic-honey-chocolate sauce, a statement I flatly refused to believe. But the recipe does exist, because it arrived via e-mail one fine morning. I spent 12 days carefully steeping raw garlic cloves in honey as par t of the preparation for making the sauce. Despite the promise contained in the recipe that the finished product would not shout "garlic!", it did…and I want to tell you there is nothing weirder on the taste buds than a chocolate sauce that is powerfully redolent of that herb! That experiment produced a valuable by-product, because I set out to prove that a chocolate-honey sauce without garlic could be much pleasanter, and I think I've succeeded. For a simple and delicious springtime desser t, ser ve this, gently warmed, over vanilla ice cream with strawberries. You must use the best-quality bittersweet chocolate you can find (remember, if it isn't smooth in bar form, it won't be smooth in the finished product, either). Despite the use of honey, the sauce is not par ticularly sweet, although you can adjust the amount of honey to taste. You'll want to use a light honey for this-orange blossom, clover, or a light wildflower would all be fine choices. Once made, the sauce will keep for at least a week in the fridge, but freezing it adversely affects the texture. WENDY'S HONEYCHOCOLATE SAUCE ADAPTED BY STARCHEFS Y ield: About 1 cup Ingredients: 4 ounces best-quality bittersweet chocolate, very finely chopped 1 Tablespoon unsalted butter, cut into small bits Pinch of salt 1/2 cup heavy cream 2 Tablespoons mild, light honey Method: In small heatproof bowl, combine chocolate, butter bits, and salt. Set aside. In small, heavy-bottomed saucepan over low heat, heat cream until ver y hot, stir ring often. Remove from heat; immediately pour about half of hot cream over chocolate. Allow to stand for a minute or two, then stir or whisk gently until smooth. Add remaining cream in three additions, stir ring gently after each until mixture is smooth. Stir in honey. Cool briefly, then chill, covering tightly when cold. To ser ve: Scrape only as much sauce as you'll use into a small heatproof bowl (repeated re-chilling and reheating of sauce can make it grainy). Place over simmering water on low heat (water should not touch bottom of bowl); stir only until melted and war m. Remove from heat and hot water. (Alter natively, scrape amount of sauce needed into microwaveable bowl. Microwave at 50% (medium) power for ver y shor t intervals, stir ring thoroughly after each, just until melted and war m). Ser ve as desired. Sauce will harden somewhat over ice cream or sorbet. starchefs_holiday_magazine.qxd 10/31/2003 6:01 PM Page 25 Celebrated pastr y chef and chocolatier Jacques Tor res shares his recipe for a springtime holiday favorite, and a few tips for making spectacular desser ts at home. sweet spot MA R S H M A L L OWS MARSHMALLOWS ADAPTED BY STARCHEFS Y ield: About 54 pieces Ingredients: 3 envelopes powdered gelatin 1/3 cup water 1 1/4 cups granulated sugar 1/4 cup light corn syrup 6 large egg whites 1 to 2 drops liquid food coloring, if desired 1 to 2 drops flavored oil, if desired 3/4 cup powdered sugar 3/4 cup cornstarch Sprinkle the gelatin over ¾ cup cold water. Let the gelatin bloom until it has absorbed all the water, about 1 minute. 1 2 3 4 TIPS Before you star t the recipe, read it through 2-3 times so you understand the steps and why you are doing them. Be sure to have all the ingredients on hand and the best ingredients you can afford. Make sure you have all of the equipment the recipe asks for. When you make the recipe remember that you are not a professional so it will take some time to make the desser t. You have to plan for this time. This is a commitment. Allow yourself the entire afternoon to bake so you can do it right. Pastr y is something you plan in advance and have to think about. It's like building. Jacques Tor res Pour the water, granulated sugar, and cor n syr up into a 2-quar t heavy-bottomed saucepan and place over medium heat. When bubbles star t to for m around the edge of the pan, inser t a candy ther mometer into the mixture. it around until it is melted, then add it to the whipping whites. Continue to whip until stiff, glossy and fluffy, about 7 minutes. The gelatin will make the mar shmallows lighter, hold their shape, and give them their trademar k elasticity. If you would like color or flavor, add one or two drops of food coloring or flavored oil now. Spray the bottom and the sides of a parchment paper covered baking sheet with cooking spray to keep the mar shmallows from sticking . Use a large offset spatula to spread the meringue as level as possible, but do not press down on it as you spread it or the meringue will deflate. To make the top ver y even, rest a long r uler on the two long sides of the pan and slide it across the top of the meringue. Place the egg whites in a large mixing bowl and whip to stiff but not dr y peaks with an electric mixer set on medium-high speed, about 5 minutes. Be ver y careful not to over whip. Combine the powdered sugar and cor nstarch in a small bowl. Use a fine-mesh sieve to sprinkle most of this mixture over the top of the meringue. Save a little for the next step. Let the meringue dr y for 2 to 3 hour s at room temperature. The boiling sugar will be ready when it reaches 240 to 250 degrees Fahrenheit, or 115 to 121 degrees Celcius. Once it reaches that temperature remove it immediately from the heat and pour it into the whipping egg whites, being careful to pour it against the sided of the bowl so it doesn't fly out when it hits the whip. Place the gelatin into the pot you just cooked the sugar in and swir l Lightly dust your wor k surface with the powdered sugar mixture. Inver the meringue onto the wor k surface and remove the parchment paper. Use a shar p chef's knife to cut the mar shmallow into desired sizes. It will be easier to cut if you dip the knife in hot water between each cut. The mar shmallows will keep at room temperature, well wrapped in plastic wrap, for up to 3 days. StarChefs • H O L I D AY I S S U E 25 starchefs_holiday_magazine.qxd 10/31/2003 6:02 PM Page 26 1O1 S TA R C H E F S Bruising for a braising? You've probably seen the term "braising" on menus or in recipes, but what does it actually mean? Braising is the process of searing food until it's brown, then cooking it in a small amount of liquid for a long period of time. Just remember : heat the pan, add the oil, and add the food. Then brown it the food on all sides before adding the liquid, and slow cook on ver y low heat for several hour s until tender. Just those six basic steps are needed for maximum flavor and tender ness. For best results, always use a tight-fitting lid - and save room for desser t! Cinco de Mayo is the most vibrant of Mexican holidays. Commonly mistaken for Mexico’s Independence Day, the holiday actually commemorates the victor y of the Mexican army (more a militia of Mexican citizens than a trained army) over the French army at La Batalla de Puebla (the battle of Puebla). A celebration of Mexican culture The events of May 5th are a source of national pride: after an embattled histor y including fighting imperialism and colonization from many European countries, the stunning victor y of the poor Mexican citizens over the French army finally provided the Mexican people with their own independent identity – they could finally call themselves Mexicans. On Cinco de Mayo Mexicans nor th and south of the border celebrate their culture and heritage. Mariachi music, colorful parades, and folklorica dancing are common celebrator y activites, but the real anchor of the day is the enormous native feast! Foods like tor tillas and tamales, sopas and mole poblano are much more traditional than the burritos and tacos found at nor thern American celebrations. For the children, sweets from a cracked piñata! How will you celebrate Cinco de Mayo? Submit your Mexican-inspired recipe today for a chance to win 1 of 5 copies of Tamales, a cookbook by Mark Miller, Stephan Pyles and John Sedlar, from Wiley Publishers. The winners will be selected on May 5, 2003. Submit your answers on www.starchefs.com/sweepstakes 26 H O L I D AY I S S U E • StarChefs starchefs_holiday_magazine.qxd 10/31/2003 6:03 PM Page 27 star cookbooks COOKBOOKS FROM S TA R C H E F S ! New Wor l d K i t c h e n : Latin American and Caribbean Cuisine by Nor man Van Aken with Janet Van Aken DEVILED LOBSTER We asked the chef to tell us a bit more about his book and his cuisine. ADAPTED BY STARCHEFS Y ield: 6 Ser vings What influenced y ou in writing this book? Buena Vista Social Club. Much like Ry Cooder went to Cuba for a stripped down experience of origins of Cuban music, I went to Latin America to commune with the local cooks in each countr y I visited…to learn the base secrets of the traditions of each cuisine in order to share them in this book. How do you see your book being used? An increasingly Latin American population in Nor th America has given us unprecedented exposure to various Latin American cuisines and their ingredients. My hope is that this book will ser ve as a roadmap for taking this new context and making great Latin-influenced food at home. What is your favorite food region? Why? South America, par ticularly the cuisines of Peru and Brazil - they are diver se, exciting , flavorful, and captivating . What do you make for your family to eat at home? Trouble. I rely a lot on the grill. My wife loves to cook - we share the love of cuisine. I go to the market, see what looks great, and come home and improvise. I tr y to go to the market in the morning as hungr y as possible. I shop my appetite. Culinar y giant Nor man Van Aken is famous for his signature style of fusion cuisine, combining flavor s from souther n and Latin cooking to create distinctive dishes. His much-anticipated four th cookbook, New World Kitchen: Latin American and Caribbean Cuisine, i s a detailed how-to guide to successfully combining ingredients from the pantr y t o make memorable feasts of our own. Including fascinating historical notes and sidebar s, Chef Nor man takes us from tapas and appetizer s to desser ts and cocktails, and even offer s a mouthwatering chapter on car nival and street fare. Ingredients: 6 Spiny Lobster Tails, cooked and diced large (or 2 pounds cooked shrimp) 2 ounces butter 2 Tablespoons olive oil or canola oil 1 scotch bonnet pepper, minced 4 scallions, green and white parts, minced 1 red onion, diced small 1/2 bulb fennel, diced small 1 cup Spanish sherry wine 1 cup orange juice 2 cups chicken or vegetable stock 3 tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped 1/4 cup Spanish sherry vinegar 5 eggs, hard-boiled, whites chopped small, yolks crumbled 1/2 Tablespoon thyme leaves, minced 2 Tablespoons all-purpose flour 1 Tablespoon Madras curry powder 2 cups milk, scalded 1 Tablespoon roasted garlic, mashed 1 Tablespoon Creole mustard 2 dashes Tabasco Kosher salt and freshly cracked black pepper to taste 2 c ups diced pineapple 1/3 cup unsweetened grated coconut, toasted Method: Put 1 ounce of the butter and the oil in a ver y large, heavy bottomed, saucepan. When the butter begins to melt add the scotch bonnet, scallions, onions and fennel and stir. Cook 2 minutes until ingredients soften. Add the sher r y and de-glaze the pan. Add the orange juice and continue to cook until reduced by half. Add the stock and reduce by half. Add the tomatoes, season with salt and pepper and simmer for 2 minutes. Add the vinegar and cook for 5 minutes. Combine the lobster meat, eggs and thyme in a bowl and reser ve. In a large sauté pan over low heat melt the remaining ounce of butter and add the flour. Cook over low heat, whisking , for 2 to 3 minutes (it should star t tur ning amber). Take off the heat and add the cur r y and stir. Slowly whisk in the milk and, stir constantly, until the milk begins to thicken (about 2 minutes). Take off the heat and whisk in the roasted garlic, mustard and Tabasco. Retur n the reser ved tomato sauce to the heat, bring to a simmer and whisk in the deviled cream sauce. Cook 2 minutes to mar r y the flavor s. Add the lobster mixture and pineapple. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Spoon the lobster cream mixture into individual casserole style dishes and then gar nish each with the toasted coconut. Note: Spiny lobster s are local to Florida and the Caribbean. You can replace the cooked lobster meat with cooked Maine lobster, shrimp or scallops. StarChefs • H O L I D AY I S S U E 27 starchefs_holiday_magazine.qxd 10/31/2003 6:04 PM Page 28 Cooking tips, food info, and shopping advice from America's top chefs. Ask your favorite celebrity chefs and food exper ts anything and ever ything you've ever wanted to know about food and we'll get the answer for you! ASK THE Star Chefs EMERIL LAGASSE'S FAVORITE FARE 28 Please submit your questions to [email protected] TACO ADVICE FROM BOBBY FLAY NORMAN VAN AKEN'S FLAVOR COMBINATIONS Knowing that you have a Por tuguese background, I am wondering what your favorite Por tuguese dish is. - Dale Brown, Springfield MO I have a basic question: I cannot seem to get the right taste for my beef taco filling . I like a really spicy flavor, but nothing over powering . Any suggestions? Thank you in advance! - Charlotte Stevens, Santa Barbara CA What are your favorite food combinations? Kale soup. I use lots of fresh kale, chorizo or andouille sausage, potatoes and chicken stock. My mom (who is Por tuguese) used to make it. Mom ran the house so we grew up eating Por tuguese food. Emeril Star t with onions and garlic. Then add ground cumin, ground coriander, ancho chile powder, jalapeno or Ser rano pepper s, and chopped tomatoes. At the ver y end, add some chopped fresh cilantro. You can also experiment with some other dried chile powder s such as pasilla, cascabel or chipotle. - Bobby H O L I D AY I S S U E • StarChefs Peanut Butter and Jelly still wor ks for me! Especially on a Ritz cracker... I'm only kidding - a little. Plantains and por k is another great one. It is in the contrast of combinations that I am most consistently drawn to. I love limejuice, sugar and fish sauce. I love passion fr uit, honey and sesame oil. I love roasted beef and lamb with caramelized onions and root vegetables. My desser t interests are chocolate and Mandarin orange, as well as cur r y and pineapple - Norman A PAINT BRUSH FOR MARCUS SAMUELSSON. What are staple ingredients in your kitchen? It’s not ingredients, it’s a br ush. It’s something I’ve had forever, since I was a kid. I paint on plates, for example. Anything is a vehicle for me to ser ve food on. I use tiles or glass bricks. I don’t buy the most expensive china, I design my own and I use stuff [that exists] in ever yday culture and I put it in my restaurant. Marcus SHOPPING WITH ALICE WATERS What tips can you give on the best way to shop in far mer's mar kets for someone who's only shopped in super mar kets. - Har r y Gaulke, Pensacola FL Most vendor s at far mer's markets will let you taste their produce. Tasting the food is a great par t of the mar ket. Also buy small amounts of lots of different things. This way you can see how to cook with them and wor k with a variety of foods, instead of getting a lot of one thing . I would go to the mar ket without any expectations about what I want to eat and cook that day. See what is ripe and best and buy that. Then go back and look in cookbooks to see what you can do with it. - Alice starchefs_holiday_magazine.qxd 10/31/2003 6:05 PM Page 29 StarChefs • H O L I D AY I S S U E 29 starchefs_holiday_magazine.qxd 10/31/2003 6:06 PM Page 30 What’s issues that matter cooking? food debates What Goes Around Comes Around: FOOD c a l e n d a r 29 CITY HARVEST 'S ANNUAL GALA: THE PRACTICAL MAGIC BALL Pier re Hotel/F ifth Avenue New Yor k, NY 212 - 874 - 5457 www.cityhar vest.org APRIL 19-20 FUTURES , PRE -RELEASE AND LIBRARY TASTING : A RARE OPPORTUNITY TO TASTE AND PURCHASE FUTURE RELEASES OF FATHOM , PINOT NOIR AND SYRAH Babcock Winery/Vineyard Lompac, CA 805 - 736 - 3886 www.backcockwinery.com MAY 2-4 B R I L L AT -S AVA R I N R E V I S I T E D : A N E X P L O R AT I O N O F T H E EMERGENCE OF GASTRONOMY IN 19 T H C E N T U R Y F R A N C E Schlesinger Librar y 10 Garden Street Cambridge, MA 617 - 358 - 0226 bfor [email protected] 5 20 11am-2pm EASTER BRUNCH IN THE ENGLISH GARDENS : EXECUTIVE CHEF RYAN SWARTHOUT 'S BRUNCH TO WELCOME SPRING INTO THE VINEYARDS Justin Vineyards & Winery Paso Robles, CA 800 - 726 - 0049 [email protected] 25-27 SCOTTSDALE CELEBRITY CHEF GOLF INVITATIONAL BENFIT: M AKE-AWISH FOUNDATION AND CHAIRED BY BOBBY FLAY, CHEF /OWNER OF BOLO AND MESA GRILL IN NYC Sanctuary on Camelback Spa & Resort/Royal Palms Resort and Spa/Hyatt Regency Scottsdale Resort at Gainey Ranch www.dineinscottsdale.com 866 - 540 - 5212 5:30 pm T H E J A M E S B E A R D F O U N D AT I O N AWARDS GALA The New Yor k Mar riott Marquis New Yor k, NY 212 - 627-2090 13-18 THE 7TH ANNUAL NANTUCKET W I N E F E S T I VA L Nantucket, Massachusetts 617 - 536 - 3400 did you know... ? RUMBLES & MURMURS – WASHINGTON, D.C. David Hagedor n and Greggor y Hill’s new restaurant, David Greggor y, is slated to open in April. The restaurant will feature contemporar y American cuisine, which includes “appas,” their American ver sion of tapas A branch of New Yor k City’s famed Latin restaurant Rosa Mexicano will open in Tyrell Place 30 H O L I D AY I S S U E • StarChefs Contaminated Food and the Environment by Nina Rubin Most of us lear ned the basics of nutrition from that bible of good eating: the Food Guide Pyramid. Based on its teachings, many people think that if they focus on fr uits and veggies and lay off the Fritos, they're doing just fine. They are, nutritionally speaking . But these days there's more to it than that. You know that giant salad you ate for lunch? Aside from bestowing your body with essential vitamins and other goodies, it also probably gave you a healthy dose of toxins. A Wor ld of Toxins From poisonous fish to toxic infant for mula, toxic foods are found throughout the wor ld, from Argentina to the Arctic. In Argentina, exposure to pesticides was found to be associated with sper m counts below the limit of infer tility. In the South Adriatic Sea (off of Italy), researcher s found that fish have mercur y levels exceeding the recommended maximum. Mercur y is a potent brain toxin, particular ly dangerous for the unbor n children of women eating the contaminated fish. How about the r unoff from chemical plants? It goes into our oceans, our fish, and then our bellies. And what about the toxic waste buried deep in the ground? The waste infiltrates our underground water sources and contaminates our soil. This is the ver y soil that yields the grain that we eat, and that is fed to the cattle that we raise for meat. Inuit infants (of the Arctic) were recently found to have a significantly higher risk of contracting cer tain infectious diseases. This is due to their diet, which is rich in marine mammal fat, and therefore per sistent organic pollutants (a group of chemicals, such as the pesticide dieldrin). By the way, this same pesticide is also thought to confer an increased risk of breast cancer. What's more, breast cancer patients who have high levels of dieldrin are believed to have a poorer likelihood of sur vival. Such pesticides can be found in a variety of edible products, from milk and meat to fr uits and veggies. Suppor t local food producer s. What Goes Around Comes Around You might be scratching your head at this point, wondering how these toxins end up in our food. The answer is quite simple. Those pesticides that are sprayed onto our fr uits and vegetables? They end up on our plates and in our bodies. What Can a Poor Boy Do? For most people with a pulse, these facts aren't pretty. If this infor mation hits your panic button, here are some things that you can do: Be an educated consumer. Tr y your hand at politics. The Bottom Line It's an eye-opening and often frightening experience to realize that our most beloved foods are not just sources of comfor t and nourishment, but also vehicles for toxic substances. An increasing number of studies suppor t this fact, and the public is star ting to get the picture: If the planet isn't healthy, neither are we. More and more, people in unexpected places - like the fine dining industr y - are facing the facts and taking action. Chivian's effor ts and the culinar y caper s of a group of Boston chefs are shedding light onto the connection between food and the environment. And putting a new spin on the saying: You are what you eat. Let the debate begin. starchefs_holiday_magazine.qxd 10/31/2003 6:06 PM Page 31 StarChefs • H O L I D AY I S S U E 31 starchefs_holiday_magazine.qxd 32 H O L I D AY I S S U E • StarChefs 10/31/2003 6:06 PM Page 32