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Vol III Issue XI Aug 2014 ISSN No : 2249-894X ORIGINAL ARTICLE Monthly Multidisciplinary Research Journal Review Of Research Journal Chief Editors Ashok Yakkaldevi A R Burla College, India Ecaterina Patrascu Spiru Haret University, Bucharest Flávio de São Pedro Filho Federal University of Rondonia, Brazil Kamani Perera Regional Centre For Strategic Studies, Sri Lanka Welcome to Review Of Research RNI MAHMUL/2011/38595 ISSN No.2249-894X Review Of Research Journal is a multidisciplinary research journal, published monthly in English, Hindi & Marathi Language. All research papers submitted to the journal will be double - blind peer reviewed referred by members of the editorial Board readers will include investigator in universities, research institutes government and industry with research interest in the general subjects. Advisory Board Flávio de São Pedro Filho Federal University of Rondonia, Brazil Horia Patrascu Spiru Haret University, Bucharest, Romania Mabel Miao Center for China and Globalization, China Kamani Perera Delia Serbescu Regional Centre For Strategic Studies, Sri Spiru Haret University, Bucharest, Romania Lanka Xiaohua Yang Ecaterina Patrascu University of San Francisco, San Francisco Spiru Haret University, Bucharest Karina Xavier Fabricio Moraes de AlmeidaFederal Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT), University of Rondonia, Brazil USA Ruth Wolf University Walla, Israel Anna Maria Constantinovici AL. I. Cuza University, Romania May Hongmei Gao Kennesaw State University, USA Loredana Bosca Spiru Haret University, Romania Romona Mihaila Spiru Haret University, Romania Marc Fetscherin Rollins College, USA Jie Hao University of Sydney, Australia Pei-Shan Kao Andrea University of Essex, United Kingdom Ilie Pintea Spiru Haret University, Romania Liu Chen Beijing Foreign Studies University, China Mahdi Moharrampour Islamic Azad University buinzahra Branch, Qazvin, Iran Govind P. Shinde Nimita Khanna Director, Isara Institute of Management, New Bharati Vidyapeeth School of Distance Education Center, Navi Mumbai Delhi Titus Pop PhD, Partium Christian University, Oradea, Romania Sonal Singh Salve R. N. Department of Sociology, Shivaji University, Vikram University, Ujjain Kolhapur Jayashree Patil-Dake P. Malyadri MBA Department of Badruka College Government Degree College, Tandur, A.P. Commerce and Arts Post Graduate Centre (BCCAPGC),Kachiguda, Hyderabad S. D. Sindkhedkar PSGVP Mandal's Arts, Science and Maj. Dr. S. Bakhtiar Choudhary Commerce College, Shahada [ M.S. ] Director,Hyderabad AP India. J. K. VIJAYAKUMAR King Abdullah University of Science & Technology,Saudi Arabia. George - Calin SERITAN Postdoctoral Researcher Faculty of Philosophy and Socio-Political Anurag Misra DBS College, Kanpur Sciences Al. I. Cuza University, Iasi C. D. Balaji Panimalar Engineering College, Chennai REZA KAFIPOUR Shiraz University of Medical Sciences Bhavana vivek patole Shiraz, Iran PhD, Elphinstone college mumbai-32 Rajendra Shendge Director, B.C.U.D. Solapur University, Awadhesh Kumar Shirotriya Secretary, Play India Play (Trust),Meerut Solapur (U.P.) Address:-Ashok Yakkaldevi 258/34, Raviwar Peth, Solapur - 413 005 Maharashtra, India Cell : 9595 359 435, Ph No: 02172372010 Email: [email protected] Website: www.ror.isrj.net AR. SARAVANAKUMARALAGAPPA UNIVERSITY, KARAIKUDI,TN V.MAHALAKSHMI Dean, Panimalar Engineering College S.KANNAN Ph.D , Annamalai University Kanwar Dinesh Singh Dept.English, Government Postgraduate College , solan More......... Review Of Research Vol. 3 | Issue. 11 | Aug. 2014 Impact Factor : 2.1002 (UIF) ISSN:-2249-894X Available online at www.ror.isrj.net ORIGINAL ARTICLE CONTEMPORARY COSTUMES AND LIFESTYLE OF GUPTA EMPIRE Radhika and Mahesh Chandra Srivastava Department of Ancient Indian History, Culture & Archaeology, Awdhesh Pratap Singh University, Rewa (M.P.), India. Abstract: The Gupta Empire was founded in northern India in the beginning of the 4th century CE, following a long period of turmoil during the Kushan Empire which ceased in the middle of the 3rd century CE. In the meantime, several new states with little or no historical relevance emerged and collapsed. However with the foundation of Gupta Empire, the peace and unity in whole of the northern India once again retrieved. The Gupta Empire lasted for more than two centuries and encompassed over the major part of north India and to Balkh in the east. In the west, the Guptas successfully overcame the foreign invaders, the Sakas, who had been ruling Gujarat for more than 200 years. During the Gupta Empire, a degree of perfection was achieved in the fields of administration, economy, art and culture, architecture, sculpture, literature, science, technology, and above all the social balance and harmony. Before the Gupta period; the sources of the manifest of costume, ornaments and styles were deduced from sculptures and ancient manuscripts etc. However in this period besides; architecture, sculpture and ancient manuscripts, wall paintings of Ajanta vividly portray contemporary costumes, ornaments, lifestyles and dresses. The lifestyle of people of any age interprets the manner of living which reflects the person's values and attitudes in that period. Since Gupta period is regarded as “golden classic age” of ancient Indian history, therefore, the contemporary costumes, and ornaments not only exhibit the social standard but the peace, harmony and prosperity of this period also. KEY WORDS: Ajanta, costumes, Gupta period, lifestyle, ornaments, sculptures, wall paintings. INTRODUCTION Apparel tradition of India is about 4,000 years old. Intricately designed apparel and house ware textiles, especially cottons and also some wools and silks have been an important commodity of export for India. The cultural aesthetics of importing countries have given new dimensions to Indian designing ideas. Since ever the Indian textiles attracted travelers from Europe, middle and central Asia, and China, as well as conquering armies from those same quarters and tourists. Such intrusions also expose Indians to new designs. Under colonialism, British rulers even invented Indian dress traditions, for example, the codification of the Sikh headdress [1]. The Gupta Empire descended in North India at the onset of the fourth century CE after the windup of the Kushan Empire, pursuing a backbreaking long term chaos in the middle of the third century. The transition period of downfall of Kushan Empire and emergence of Gupta Empire proved to be a fertile Title: “CONTEMPORARY COSTUMES AND LIFESTYLE OF GUPTA EMPIRE” , Source: Review of Research [2249894X] Radhika and Mahesh Chandra Srivastava yr:2014 | vol:3 | iss:11 1 CONTEMPORARY COSTUMES AND LIFESTYLE OF GUPTA EMPIRE ground for the nourishment of several smaller states, but they could not emboss the history of ancient India. However, the credit to reunite the whole of the northern India and to establish peace and harmony through good governance goes to the Gupta Empire. This glorious empire lasted for more than two centuries with far and wide boundaries spread over the major parts of north India and to Balkh in the east [2]. Guptas had to fight tough and defeat the foreign invaders in the West, they dismantled the 200 years old empire of Sakas in Gujarat. According to Prayag-Prashasti, Samudragupta took over the twelve southern states but did not merged them under the canopy of the Gupta Empire and set them free after taking certain gifts, this policy is popularly known as “Grahan-Moksh Anugrah Neeti”. During the Gupta Empire, a degree of perfection was achieved in the fields of administration, economy, art and culture, architecture, sculpture, literature, science, technology, and above all the social balance and harmony. That is why this period is considered as emblem of the Golden Age and the Classical Period of ancient Indian History [3]. The Chinese Buddhist monk Fa-hein noted the peacefulness of India, the rarity of serious crimes, and the benevolence of the administration. Most Indians, except the lowest castes and untouchables practiced vegetarianism. Hinduism was widespread although Buddhism and Jainism still flourished. After the invasions of the White Huns, the Gupta Empire's glory was revived during Harsh regime (606-647 CE) of Kanauj. However, neither the Harsh nor the Guptas could conquer the south India, and Pallavas and Chalukyas took over the power from the Satavahanas. In the Deccan, it was the Vakatakas and not the Guptas who ruled from the first half of the fifth century to the seventh century and after them the Chalukya King Pulakesin II (609-642 CE) came to power. The Kushans were much influenced with the western world because of the Roman Empire dominance, although the latter collapsed. These chronological circumstances eventually led to the opportunity for India to develop her own denotative ideology for self expression that was later exported to the Far East and South Asia through trade and religion. The trade and religion influenced the more contacts in these regions and a mosaic pattern of lifestyle among the people came into being through sanskritization and westernization. Costumes comprise of the prevalent fashion of dress including accessories and hair style as well as garments, characteristic to a country or a time or a social class. Before the Gupta period; the manifest sources of costume, ornaments and styles were deduced from sculptures and ancient manuscripts. However in Gupta period besides; architecture, sculpture, coins and ancient manuscripts, wall paintings of Ajanta vividly portray contemporary costumes, ornaments, lifestyles and dresses. This article intends to inventories the costumes of different social classes during Gupta period to deliver a consolidated idea regarding the social setup, psycho-religious factors of society and probable dress diversity factors of that age along with the foreign influence thereon. 2. COSTUMES THROUGH AGES: AN OVERVIEW 2.1. Indus Valley Civilization In 1922 archaeologists made an exciting discovery of an ancient Harappa city from a previously unknown civilization. Thereafter, with the help from local guides another city from the same civilization called Mohenjo-Daro was discovered. Since, over 1400 cities from this same civilization have been found to be existed which are collectively called as Indus valley civilization, as the cities have mostly been found in the Indus valley. This civilization lasted for 1000 years (from about 2500 BCE to about 1500 BCE). However, with all the discoveries, still very little is known about the life style of the people of Indus valley civilization except their town planning with straight streets and brick houses. The excavated artifacts suggest many other activities but not more about their costumes. 2.2 The Vedic Period After the dusk of Indus valley civilization, The Vedic period (1500 BCE to 500 BCE) began when the Aryans started their civilization in these areas, flourished and later traveled across the world. In India, the Vedic period was also known to be a flourishing time for the Sanskrit literature and Indian culture. The divine Vedas were written during this period in four strata as: Rigveda, Yajurveda, Samaveda, and the Atharvaveda. However, the Vedic civilization took deep roots in India during the period of Rigveda. The people learnt domesticating cattle, art of farming, building weaponry, preparing medicines and stitching clothes. The garments of this period were used as traditional attire of India as it was this land where these costumes were designed and worn. Review Of Research | Volume 3 | Issue 11 | Aug 2014 2 CONTEMPORARY COSTUMES AND LIFESTYLE OF GUPTA EMPIRE Figure – 1: Costumes of women (Sari, Ghangra – Choli, Dupatta) Costumes of women - As the Vedic people were in the initial stages of stitching clothes, the easiest piece of clothing for women was the Sari. It is a long stretch of cloth which is about six to nine yards, and is to be draped on a woman's body in a specific manner. Even though the initial styles of draping the Sari were very basic, they were later altered on a regional basis. However, the most common manner of draping the sari was, wrapping one end of the cloth around the waist, and throwing the other end over the shoulder covering the bust area [4]. A blouse or a Choli was later incorporated as a part of the sari, as an upper body garment with sleeves and a neck. A sari is known to be the most elegant woman's clothing in the Indian culture. Another similar type of Vedic clothing is the Dupatta, which is the smaller version of the sari [5]. It is only a few meters long and was usually used in the later Vedic period as a part of sophisticated garments such as, Ghangra - Choli, where the Ghangra is a long skirt worn with a blouse and the Dupatta (Fig. 1). Costumes of men - Men too draped pieces of long clothing around them during the Vedic period. The most initial attire of Vedic men wore Dhotis which were draped around their waste and partitioned it with pleats (Fig. 2). There were no upper garments required by men in this era; therefore, the Dhoti was the only piece of clothing they wore. Another similar garment worn by men was the Lungi, which was simply draped around the man's waist and pleated in the center, but is not partitioned. However, when Vedic people learned to stitch, they made the Kurta which is a loose shirt like upper body garment. Then came the Pajama which resembled a loose trouser. Men also wore head gears such as turbans, draped in various regional styles [6]. Figure – 2: Costume of ancient Indian men (Dhoti) Review Of Research | Volume 3 | Issue 11 | Aug 2014 3 CONTEMPORARY COSTUMES AND LIFESTYLE OF GUPTA EMPIRE During this period the people were more inclined to the dress and decorations. Knitting sewing, and weaving were known. The garments were made up of wool, cotton, silk, and leather [7-8]. The garments worn in Vedic times onwards did not fundamentally differ from those worn by Hindus in later times. A single length cloth draped around the body, over the shoulders and fastened with a pin or a belt. This was a comfortable dress to be worn in a hot and humid climate which prevailed in India in comparison to the weather from where these people migrated. Lower garment was called paridhana or vasana. It was usually such a cloth fastened around the waist with a belt or a string which is called mekhala or rasana. Upper garment was called Uttaiya and worn like a shawl over the shoulders. This upper garment was usually discarded at home or in hot weather especially by the people belonging to lower strata. Third garment called pravara was worn in cold season like cloak or a mantle [9]. Stitching was not unknown as is evident from the depiction of women in jackets and bodices. Invasion of Sakas and Kushanas from Central Asia led to the introduction of trousers at least in the upper classes in the Gupta times. In fact, Kushana kings have been shown in the coins and a headless statue of Kanishka wearing long quilted coats, trousers and boots of typically Central Asian style. Clothes used for preparing these clothes varied from wool worn in North India in winters, diaphanous silks and muslins which were transparent and showed the limbs of the wearers. Clothes were often dyed or otherwise patterned with gay stripes and checks. Foot wears were generally worn to protect the feet from scorching heat of earth in Indian summers [10]. Figure – 3: A- Uttariya, B- Antaryia 3. COSTUMES OF MEN DURING GUPTA PERIOD The kings of Gupta period highly appraised the importance of stitched dresses which were traditionally gained the importance of royalty during Kushan periods and even got them embossed on their coins. Since Kushans were much influenced with the Western Roman Empire therefore the coats, trousers and boots were pre dominant dresses of royal family, and the Guptas adopted them which are marked on Gupta age coins [11]. However, Guptas also continued to wear the traditional indigenous dresses such as antaryia, uttariya and kayabandh on normal affairs (Fig. 3). 3.1 DESCRIPTION 1. KING (cf. Fig. 5A – Ajanta, Cave XVII [11]) The royal costume of Gupta period kings consisted of; Review Of Research | Volume 3 | Issue 11 | Aug 2014 4 CONTEMPORARY COSTUMES AND LIFESTYLE OF GUPTA EMPIRE 1)Anatriya – A short and striped dress in lehnga style with a long end visible on the cushion. 2)Anguliya – A ring on little finger. 3)Keyura – An elaborate armlet with loops suspended from a cylinder of delicate and intricate ornamentation (usually in gold or silver or other fine twisted wire) work. 4)Kirita – A jeweled headdress of metal with ornamental discs and motifs. 5)Kundala – Elaborate earrings. 6)Haar (Necklace) – Jewellery consisting of a cord or chain bearing gems worn about the neck as an ornament gems with loops. 7)Mangal Sutra – Usually silk ties worn on necklace, visible at the right shoulder. 8)Suddha Ekavali – Necklace of pearls with a central gem. 9)Valaya – An ornamental bracelet, one on each wrist. 2. KING (cf. Fig. 5B – Ajanta, Cave I [11]) Here the king wears a brown striped silk garment, offering lotus flowers to Lord Buddha on a tray that appears to be covered or painted in a design. 1)Bali – Earrings from which separate drops of pearls and sapphires are suspended. 2)Keshsajja (Hairstyle) – Short hair. 3)Mangal Sutra – Simple chain at the neck. 4)Mukuta – A jeweled headdress of metal with ornamental floral motif from which pearls are looped and suspended. 5)Valaya – Bracelets of different kinds at the wrists. 3. KING AND QUEEN (cf. Fig. 5C – Gupta gold coin [11]) As per the Gupta age Gold Coin (Fig. 4) during the regime of Samudragupta (350-380 CE) queen Kumaradevi and King Chandragupta was embossment, the queen is dressed in indigenous costume antariya and uttariya, her hair is worn in a bun at the top of the head and nupura on the ankles. 1)Chugha – A close-fitting coat of the Kushans with a row of decorative buttons with fastenings at the centre; the opening in front is held together and the waist edge ends in a point at the centre. 2)Earrings – Button style jewelry to ornament the ear; usually clipped to the earlobe or fastened through a hole in the lobe. 3)Trousers – A garment extending from the waist to the knee or ankle, covering each leg separately do not appear to have creases at the knee. 4)Headgear – A close-fitting cap. Figure – 4: Queen Kumaradevi and King Chandragupta on a gold coin (350-380 CE) [wikimedia.org] Review Of Research | Volume 3 | Issue 11 | Aug 2014 5 CONTEMPORARY COSTUMES AND LIFESTYLE OF GUPTA EMPIRE 4. PRINCE (cf. Fig. 5D – Ajanta, Cave XVII [11]) 1)Keshsajja (Hairstyle) – Shoulder length hair loosely knotted at the nape; bound with ribbons with stylized curls at the forehead. 2)Headgear – Twisted turban (A traditional headdress consisting of a long scarf wrapped around the head) in stripes or bound at intervals with braid; there are large gem-beset breastpins at the sides and a central ornament on the top. 3)Kundala – Simple type earrings. 4)Muktavali – Single-string pearl necklace. 5. MINISTER (cf. Fig. 5E – Ajanta [11]) 1)Bali – Simple earrings with suspended pearl. 2)Keshsajja (Hairstyle) – Smoothly combed back long hair. 3)Haravsti – large pearl necklace 4)Kancuka – Simple indigenous round-neck loose fitting cloaks extending to the hips or knees with long sleeves and a front opening; up to calf-length. 5)Torque – Simple necklet of twisted wire with beads. 6)Uttariya – wrapped around the waist and thrown over the left shoulder with the final end resting on the left arm. 6. CHAMBERLAIN (cf. Fig. 5F – Ajanta, Cave XVII [11]) 1)Chaddar – Fish-scale pattern decorated cloth worn over the left shoulder and under the right arm. 2)Headgear – Flat turban of twisted cloth held by ribbon bands at intervals, worn as a mark of office by the chamberlain. 3)Kancuka – Indigenous striped white tunic with long sleeves and front opening; probably calf-length 4)Torque – Necklet of twisted wire with beads 8. GUARD (cf. Fig. 5H – Ajanta, Cave XVII [11]) 1)Arm equipment – Oval shield and curved sword. 2)Hairstyle – Drawn up in a large top knot 3)Kayabandh (Girdle) – A band of material around the waist that strengthens a skirt or trousers tied at the waist. 4)Kundala – disc-type earrings. 5)Quaba – It is non-indigenous garment, this calf-length tunic has the Persian-type pointed collar and tiraz band braid trimming on upper arms. The costume appears to be foreign; however, the hairstyle, sword and earrings are indigenous. Thus it is most likely that the foreign uniform was adopted by the Gupta army. 9. FOOT SOLDIER (cf. Fig. 5I – Ajanta, Cave XVII [11]) 1)Antariya – Short and striped material with a border. 2)Cholaka – Short jacket covering the chest with half-sleeves and a decorative braid at the hem and sleeveedge. 3)Armament – Spear and rectangular, curved shield of rhinoceros hide. 4)Hairstyle – Shoulder length hair; without any headgear. 5)Kangan – One bracelet on each wrist. Elephant riders and foot soldiers in the Gupta army wore a similar uniform. They were sometimes more splendid in gold-striped antariya and skull caps or fillets on their heads. Review Of Research | Volume 3 | Issue 11 | Aug 2014 6 CONTEMPORARY COSTUMES AND LIFESTYLE OF GUPTA EMPIRE Figure – 5 (A-K): Costumes of men during Gupta period. A-King (Ajanta, Cave XVII), B-King, making an offering of lotus flowers to Lord Buddha (Ajanta, Cave I), C- King and Queen (Gupta gold coin), D- Prince (Ajanta, Cave XVII), E- Minister (Ajanta), F- Chamberlain (Ajanta, Cave XVII), G- Guard (Ajanta, Cave II), H- GUARD (Ajanta, Cave XVII), I- Foot Soldier (Ajanta, Cave XVII), J- Bikkhu (Ajanta, Cave XVI), K- Horse Man (Ajanta, Cave XVI) [4to40.com – History [11]. 11. HORSE MAN (HAYGREEV) (cf. Fig. 5J – Ajanta, Cave XVI [11]) The costume of horse man is very similar to that of the Iranian tarter, from whom the tiraz band trimming, pointed collar and floating ribbon ties originated. Baggy trousers tucked into boots are probably worn. 1)Belt –Worn at the waist. 2)Headgear – Dome cap with band. 3)Quaba – Calf-length striped coat with pointed collar and tiraz band braid on upper arms; floating ribbon Review Of Research | Volume 3 | Issue 11 | Aug 2014 7 CONTEMPORARY COSTUMES AND LIFESTYLE OF GUPTA EMPIRE ties are visible at the back. 4. COSTUMES OF WOMEN DURING GUPTA PERIOD In the case of male costume it is easier to trace the influence, which came mainly from the invaders and traders. In female costume, however, the variety is much greater and hence it is more difficult to pinpoint the exact sources. 4.1 DESCRIPTION 1. QUEEN (cf. Fig. 6A – Gupta gold coin [11]) The queen is dressed in indigenous costume as seen in her antariya and uttariya, her hair is worn in a bun at the top of the head. From the Licchavi tribe, she wears nupura on the ankles. 1)Antariya – Short and striped material with a border. 2)Uttariya – Wrapped around the waist and thrown over the left shoulder with the final end resting on the left arm. 3)Nupura – Anklets of simple design 4)Hairstyle - Hair appears in a bun at the top of the head. 2. VOTARY FIGURE (cf. Fig. 6B – Ajanta, Cave II [11]) 1)Ardhoruka – langoti type of patterned striped drawers - a short strip of cloth worn around the waist with an attached strip from the centre of the waist which is drawn up between the legs and tucked in at the back. 2)Choli – Short blouse of cobwebby material. 3)Headgear – A striped scarf tied around the head and knotted at the back, tassels are visible behind the right shoulder; further back on the head is a decoration of leaves with a central motif probably tied around a chignon-type hairstyle. She carries an offering and could be of foreign origin as the scarf on the head suggests. 4)Keyura – Flat simple armbands. 5)Kundala – Large disc-type earrings. 6)Muktavali – String of pearls at the neck. 7)Nupura – Anklets of simple design 8)Uttariya – Worn over the left shoulder. 9)Vaikaksha – Two long strings of pearls crossed at the chest. 10)Valaya – Bracelet, one on each wrist. 3. ATTENDANT (cf. Fig. 6C – Ajanta, Cave I [11]) 1)Robe – Ankle-length in white material with a pale blue frill at the hem; it has tight sleeves and a collar; the hem of the sleeves and the edge of the collar are embroidered; there is a tiraz band trimming at the upper arm and floating ribbons at the back opening 2)Headgear – A round cap of red material (broad-cloth or velvet) with a white border of fur or wool and white plume at the centre This is often referred to as the Persian Embassy scene, but the figure appears to be a Turanian Tartar from Central Asia. Turanian Tartars were influenced in their dress by the Persians, as seen in the tiraz band, floating ribbons and round cap. 4. MAID SERVANT (cf. Fig. 6D – Ajanta, Cave XVII [11]) 1)Antariya – Worn very short in kachcha style; after knotting at the centre both ends are passed between the legs, fluted and tucked in at back centre to fall to the ankles; one end has been tucked in under the mekhala and the other over it 2)Hairstyle – Hair has been drawn back into one plait, with a few curls at the forehead; a fillet is worn and also a chaplet of flowers to which a semi-circular ornament has been attached on either side of the centre parting 3)Keyura – Worn on the upper arms-baju, cylinderical, inset with pearls and tied on with ribbons. 4)Kundala – Simple ring-type earrings. Review Of Research | Volume 3 | Issue 11 | Aug 2014 8 CONTEMPORARY COSTUMES AND LIFESTYLE OF GUPTA EMPIRE 5)Mekhala – Girdle at the hips is decorated with discs; a small frill of cloth hangs at the side which could be part of the end of the antariya pulled around from the back after tucking in, and tucked in again at the front. 6)Mukatavali – Necklace of one strand of small pearls (haravsti) 7)Nupura – Anklets are simple and cylindrical. 8)Valaya – Bracelet of filigree work. 5. COURT LADY (cf. Fig. 6E – Ajanta, Cave I [11]) 1)Ghagri – The early form of a skirt to the knees in which there is a draw-string (nada); the border of the woven silk material can be seen vertically down the centre. 2)Valaya – Graded ivory or conch-shell bangles. 3)Hara – Dead necklace. 4)Hairstyle – Centre parting with chignon on nape decorated with ribbons; a wreath of leaves is worn around the head. 6. PRINCESS (cf. Fig. 6F – Ajanta, Cave I [11]) 1)Anguliya – Ring worn on the little finger of the right hand. 2)Bali – Ring-type earrings with pearls strung; a smaller simple ring is worn on the upper part of the ear. 3)Hairstyle – Elaborate, adorned with flowers and jewels, the hair being worn in a large bun at the nape. 4)Keyura – Armlet of filigree work festooned with pearls on upper arms. 5)Kirita – A decorative jeweled headdress. 6)Lehnga – The antariya has now become the lehnga; it is held first at the right hip then taken once around the body and tucked in tightly at the left hip in pleats or simply as in this figure. 7)Uttariya – A diaphanous material cloth, thrown over the breasts. 8)Muktavali – Several pearl necklaces of small and large pearls including one long strand which hangs between the breasts. 9)Nupura – Very simple anklet. 10)Valaya – One simple and one ornamental bracelet is worn on each wrist. The stool or short-backed chair (piddha) has turned wooden legs very similar to those available in most parts of India today. Covering it is a pearl studded or tie-dyed cross-shaped cloth. The large cushion at the back is covered with printed cloth and the cushion used as footrest has a pearl edge. 7. COURT LADY (cf. Fig. 6G – Gwalior Museum [11]) 1)Hairstyle – Hair is worn with a centre parting which is covered by a decorative ornament attached to the mukuta (tiara) at the forehead and the jewelled braid at the left side of the nape; the braid then continues like a fillet around the crown of the head. 2)Haravsti – One strand of large pearls. 3)Kundala – Large wheel-like earrings. 4)Mukuta – Highly decorative in embossed gold or silver, has little pendants suspended from it at the forehead. 5)Torque – Twisted wire necklace of Celtic origin. 8. FEMALE VOTARY (cf. Fig. 6H – Ajanta, Cave VI [11]) 1)Bali – Small earrings with suspended pearls; worn higher up on the ear. 2)Hairstyle – Hair is worn in a large pompadour style on the crown of the head with tiny curls along the forehead. 3)Mala – Large flowers above the ears are used as further ornamentation to the hairstyle Kundala – Very large ring-type earrings. 4)Ratnajali – From the elaborate tiara-like ornament around the head, strands of pearls. form a net over the hair-style; there is a central ornament at the forehead from which are suspended strands of pearls. 5)Suddha Ekavali – Pearl necklace with a gem at the centre; has ribbon ties. Review Of Research | Volume 3 | Issue 11 | Aug 2014 9 CONTEMPORARY COSTUMES AND LIFESTYLE OF GUPTA EMPIRE Figure – 6 (A-I): Costumes of women. A- Queen (from Gupta gold coin), B- Votary (Ajanta, Cave II), CAttendant (Ajanta, Cave I), D- Maid Servant (Ajanta, Cave XVII), E- Court Lady (Ajanta, Cave I), FPrincess (Ajanta, Cave I), G- Court Lady (Gwalior Museum), H-Female Votary (Ajanta, Cave VI), I- Maid (Ajanta, Cave XVI) [ 4to40.com – History [11]. 9. MAID (cf. Fig. 6I – Ajanta, Cave XVI [11]) 1)Angarkha – Long-sleeved tunic with probably a left side-opening running down to the pointed hem. 2)Hairstyle – Probably a thick twisted roll of padding is fixed at the centre parting and held in place by tiny plaits of hair; this is still used to hold high the head-covering by some women of north India and gives an extremely regal effect to head veil. 3)Hara – A simple chain. 4)Kundala – Large ring-type earrings. 5)Uttariya – Worn over the head and left hanging behind the shoulders in Parthian or Scythian style. 5. DISCUSSION The Indian costumes of men and women have always been a matter of great curiosity since ever. From Vedic period to the Gupta period several designs of cut and tailored garments came to fashion. By and by alterations took place and the indigenous kancuka, inspired the development of embossed tunic with long or short sleeves worn by ministers, guards, doormen, and court attendants. Simpler version of the white calf-length tunic can be seen in the costume of the chamberlain, a chaddar further bring dignity to his clothing of a distinctive style. The lower garment was usually the antariya and with it was sometimes worn kancuka, which Review Of Research | Volume 3 | Issue 11 | Aug 2014 10 CONTEMPORARY COSTUMES AND LIFESTYLE OF GUPTA EMPIRE could be tucked in like a shirt. The kayabandh was used to hold the garments in place. The ushnisa (turban) slowly became obsolete, and remained confined to certain dignitaries, ministers and other officials only. The climatic conditions of northern India highly favoured cut and tailored garments, however in the southern parts, the indigenous antariya, uttariya and kayabandh is still prevalent. The royalty on the Gupta coins exhibits wearing the cut-tailored garment of the Kushan period [12-14]. It was the elaborate mukuta (crown) and exquisite jewelry that really set apart kings and high dignitaries from other members of royal retinue. The Persian influence on Indian costume art is clearly indicated in the rich floating ribbon decoration, as it was a fashion at the Persian courts. The antariya was worn in different styles. The short or long antariya was worn in the kachcha style or as a lehnga, in both the cases it was first wrapped around the right hip then around the body and tucked in at the left hip. The ankle-length antariya was the lower garment of high rank women; however, attendant usually wore the shorter form. During Gupta period, the kachcha style of antariya became less popular among women and replaced by the more feminine lehnga (Fig. 7). However, the kachcha style is still prevalent among the women of Maharashtra and South India. The skirt, evolved from the antariya after being stitched on one side and was worn gathered together at the waist, and held by a girdle. The idea of Buddhism and Jainism that the body of women is sinful and had to be covered, thus the bhairnivasani came into being. Since the kachcha and the lehnga style were seductive, therefore, the antariya changed to bhairnivasani, an extraordinary amount of clothing to completely hide the shape of the females. From the bhairnivasani evolved the skirt with the drawstring or nada, called ghagri, still prevalent in different rural and tribal regions of India [15]. The breast-band had been used since Vedic times mainly to support for breasts rather than to covers them. Indigenous stitched garment, cholaka, chola, choli, cholika and kancholika are mentioned in early Sanskrit literature [16-17]. This choli appears to be fastened in front, probably knotted, as in the case with certain cholis in use today. Figure – 7: Detail from Ajanta painting by Robert Gill (Museum No. IS.53-1885). (Photograph by V & A Photographic) Review Of Research | Volume 3 | Issue 11 | Aug 2014 11 CONTEMPORARY COSTUMES AND LIFESTYLE OF GUPTA EMPIRE 6. CONCLUSION It is indeed interesting to find satisfactory answer as to, why Indian women frequently began to dress the top half of their bodies who for many centuries wandered bare above the waist? The most probable answers in Indian circumstances compel to think in two directions; one the impact of Buddhism, Jainism and Christianity who believed that the body of women is sinful and had to be covered to avoid enticement and other is the idea that covering of bosoms is more attractive than exposing it. These psycho-religious answers might have been forerunners behind the diversity of women costumes in India. Concurrently, foreign invasions, tourism, and socio-economic factors such as trade, sanskritization and westernizations have also played a major role in the thought of costume designing. Now a day Indian fashion is falling in step with western counterparts. By 1995 at least thirty-five agreements between Indian and foreign textile and apparel-producing firms had been made. Changing economic realities and media are eliciting fashion experiments outside cities too. Thus the low caste indigenous garments giving ethnic and regional identity needs to be rediscovered and conserved. This will not only preserve our socio-cultural heritage but also keep our unique artistic inheritance intact. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Author Radhika expresses deep sense of passionate gratitude to her husband Mr. Sanjay K. Chaubey for his meticulous support and hearty gratefulness to Dr. H.P. Pandey for his help in dressing up of the manuscript. REFERENCES 1.Cohn, Bernard (1989). Cloth, Clothes, and Colonialism: India in the Nineteenth Century. In Annette, B. Weiner and Jane Schneider (Eds.) Cloth and Human Experience. pp. 305-353. Smithsonian Institution Press, Washington. 2.Srivastava, Mahesh Chandra and Radhika (2014). The Temple and Sculpture Arts of Gupta Dynasty in Madhya Pradesh India. Indian Streams Research Journal 4 (5): 1-7. Available online at www.isrj.net 3.Radhika (2014). Intending Symbols in the Iconography of Gupta Age Sculptures of Central India. Golden Research Thoughts 3 (12): 1-8. Available online at www.aygrt.isrj.net 4.Banerjee, Mukulika, and Daniel Miller (2003). The Sari. Berg, Oxford. 5.Boulanger, Chantal (1997). Saris: An Illustrated Guide to the Indian Art of Draping. Shakti Press International, New York. 6.http://idyllic.wordpress.com/(Retrieved on 08/15/2014) 7.Rigveda – 10/26/6. 8.Atharvaveda – 9/5/26. 9.Atharvaveda – 10/7/42-43. 10.www.buzzle.com/articles/vedic-period-costumes.html (Retrieved on 08/15/2014) 11.http://www.4to40.com/history/index.asp?p=Gupta_Period_Early_Fourth_to_Mid-Eighth_Centuary_ A.D. (Retrieved on 07/13/2014) 12.Fabri, Charles (1977). Indian Dress: A Brief History. Sangam Books; Orient Longman Limited, New Delhi. 13.Ghurye, G. S. (1966). Indian Costume. Popular Prakashan, Bombay. 14.Kumar, Ritu (1999). Costumes and Textiles of Royal India. Edited by Cathy Muscat. Christie's Books, London. 15.Leslie, Julia (1992). “The Significance of Dress for the Orthodox Hindu Woman.” In Ruth Barnes and Joanne B. Eicher (Eds.), Dress and Gender: Making and Meaning. pp. 198-213. Berg, Oxford. 16.Sahay, Sachidanand (1973). Indian Costume, Coiffure and Ornament. Munshiram Manoharlal Pub. Pvt. Ltd., New Delhi. 17.Tarlo, Emma (1996). Clothing Matters: Dress and Identity in India. University of Chicago Press, Chicago. Radhika Department of Ancient Indian History, Culture & Archaeology,Awdhesh Pratap Singh University, Rewa (M.P.), India. Review Of Research | Volume 3 | Issue 11 | Aug 2014 12 Publish Research Article International Level Multidisciplinary Research Journal For All Subjects Dear Sir/Mam, We invite unpublished Research Paper,Summary of Research Project,Theses,Books and Books Review for publication,you will be pleased to know that our journals are Associated and Indexed,India ¬ Directory Of Research Journal Indexing ¬ International Scientific Journal Consortium Scientific ¬ OPEN J-GATE Associated and Indexed,USA DOAJ ? EBSCO ? ? Crossref DOI ? Index Copernicus ? Publication Index ? Academic Journal Database ? Contemporary Research Index ? Academic Paper Databse ? Digital Journals Database ? Current Index to Scholarly Journals ? Elite Scientific Journal Archive ? Directory Of Academic Resources ? 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