FEATURE Plus-size Lingerie
Transcription
FEATURE Plus-size Lingerie
FEATURE Plus-size Lingerie CREATIONS HONORS Top stores of the season THE GUEST Ali Cudby DITORIA STAY TUNED H APPY HOURS, PRIVATE SALES, customer loyalty cards, clearance sales: there are so many ways to significantly boost a store’s sales. These tactics have even become essential given today’s marketing-addicted consumer. It’s no longer enough to have good merchandise; you have to know how to sell it, too! In today’s business world, all advice is worth considering. That’s why Créations Lingerie North America decided to include business tips and become another educational resource for retailers. Every trimester in this magazine, in addition to market analyses, trends, and conversations with lingerie, swimwear, and loungewear brands, you will find dozens of practical ideas. First, you’ll find the column Top Stores where we publish photos of the season’s best stores and reveal their most useful tips & tricks. Then, take in the advice of the professionals, like Ali Cudby in this issue. Staying loyal to our mission, we’ve also included not only exclusive interviews with Kerry O’Brien of Commando and Heather Thomson of Yummie, but also an exciting look at ultrafashionable Plus-Size intimates. And don’t miss our report on lingerie’s new names, a column by our friend Ellen Lewis, and a fantastic analysis by our new collaborator, swimwear specialist Rhea Cortado. Enjoy this month’s edition. We hope you’ll join us for a new special issue, largely dedicated to swimwear, available in July. François Pomès Managing editor [email protected] xoxoxoxooxoxoxoxooxoxo Easton International, Inc. Tel: 201.391.3492 / [email protected] www.eastoninternational.com Intimate insight, European view #6 APRIL. / JUNE. 2014 Editorial.......................................................................... 2 The Guest Ali Cudby, Fab Foudation...................................................... 6 News.................................................................................10 Up-and-Coming.....................................................22 Top Stores...............................................................24 p.26 Event Lingerie Fashion Night “In”............................................... 30 Interview Kerry O’Brien, Commando................................................ 36 Feature New Brands, New Luxury.................................................40 Lingerie Briefs Chronicles p.24 Loungewear, Easywear.......................................................42 Corsetry p.42 Interview: Heather Thomson for Yummie......................50 Feature: Plus-Size Lingerie................................................52 Collections........................................................................... 56 Loungewear & Hosiery Collections........................................................................... 66 Beachwear Collections.......................................................................... 70 Men’s Intimate Apparel Feature: New Swimwear for Men ..................................... 74 Collections........................................................................... 78 Fairs Curve NV.............................................................................. 82 Curve NY..............................................................................84 MiamiSwimShow................................................................85 July Shows in Paris............................................................. 86 Interfilière Shanghai........................................................... 87 Fabrics News.................................................................................... 90 European Sourcing.............................................................. 91 p.74 p.82 AD DIRECTORY FEATURE Plus-size Lingerie CREATIONS HONORS Top stores of the season THE GUEST Ali Cudby CLNA6_UNE_OK.indd 3 COVER BACK COVER PARISA USA ANITA INTERNATIONAL Address 9401 Business Center Dr., Northridge, CA 91324 P: (818) 773-5000 F: (818) 773-5100 Address 3540 NW 56th Street, Ste. 204 Fort Lauderdale, FL 33309 P: 1-954-730-8189 ext. 114 F: 1-954-730-8723 [email protected] www.parisausa.com [email protected] www.anita.com 25/04/14 18:11 AFFINITAS.......................................................................................13 ANITA........................................................................... BACK COVER AUBADE............................................................................................ 3 CURVESHOW.................................................................................80 EUCALAN.......................................................................................35 YVES MORITZ Publisher [email protected] FRANÇOIS POMÈS Managing editor [email protected] VALÉRIE CHARIER Editor in chief [email protected] VALÉRIE DUBILLON Advertising director (US, Canada, Europe) [email protected] GUILLAUME NACK Advertising manager (France, Europe, Asia) [email protected] JULIEN KOPLEWICZ-PINET Graphic Designer [email protected] INTERFILIERE PARIS SHOW.........................................................88 INTERFILIERE / SHANGHAI MODE LINGERIE SHOW................ 47 MODE CITY SHOW....................................................... 96; COVER 3 OH LA LA CHERI............................................................................ 61 PARISA.......................................................................FRONT COVER PJ SALVAGE........................................................... COVER 2; PAGE 1 MIAMISWIMSHOW........................................................................15 TRIUMPH......................................................................................... 11 THE CLNA TEAM JULIE FRANCE...............................................................................59 VA BIEN..........................................................................................48 CRÉATIONS LINGERIE NORTH AMERICA IS PUBLISHED BY EDITOLUX Sarl au capital de 200 000 euros RCS : Paris 388 442 923 lSSN : 0336-7266 Créations Lingerie Dépôt légal : à parution. Price: $29 Printed in Canada 71, rue Ordener 75018 Paris France TéI : + 33(0)1.55.29.53.00 Fax : + 33(0)1.42.58.06.02 www.creations-lingerie.com PUBLISHER Yves Moritz [email protected] TRANSLATION & PROOFREADING Heather Way [email protected] MANAGING EDITOR François Pomès [email protected] DESIGN L’Ours Sarl [email protected] CHIEF EDITOR Valérie Charier [email protected] ADVERTISING MANAGERS Valérie Dubillon [email protected] FREELANCES & CONTRIBUTORS Ellen Lewis, Leslie Valmont, Rhea Cortado Guillaume Nack [email protected] SUBSCRIPTIONS EDITOLUX SERVICE ABONNEMENT CS70001 59361 AVESNES SUR HELPE CEDEX FRANCE tel : +33 (0)3 27 56 12 02 No part of this magazine may be reproduced without permission from Editolux. The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the publisher. THE GUEST Princess Ali Better positioning of one’s merchandise, better sales techniques, and better knowledge of the market: this is what Ali Cudby, well-known as a consultant and blogger in the intimate apparel world, has to offer. We recently spoke with her. BY FRANÇOIS POMÈS T he bubbly Ali Cudby, who wears the hats of blogger, consultant, and fashion aficionado, is above all a big fan of intimates, both its brands and its retailers. As the CEO of Fab Foundations, which helps stores and manufacturers optimize their business and branding, Ali is one of the key players in the North American intimates scene. Her book Busted! The Fab Foundations® Guide to Bras That Fit, Flatter and Feel Fantastic has become a must in the industry and was even translated into Spanish! The journalist-blogger-consultant-fan has more than one trick up her sleeve and founded The Intimate Circle, a club where members can learn about retail sales and share their knowledge, as well as the FabFit Academy, a training program that attracts dozens of professionals each session. For Créations Lingerie North America, Ali agreed to offer us her perspective. What are the FabFit Academy and the Guide? The FabFit Academy is an online bra fit training and certification program that is designed for use by lingerie professionals. I created the program in 2012 after hearing from a number of retailers that they wanted fit training that they could access when they needed it, wherever they were in the world. As the author of the bestselling book on bra fitting, Busted!, it was a natural extension of the work I was already doing. Since my methodology is focused on how a bra fits a woman’s body, it lends itself to being effective across all countries and sizing protocols. What about the new Circle? The Intimate Circle is a new online tool for lingerie retailers. 6 “I think when companies stop thinking about taking things to the next level, that’s the beginning of the slippery slope to stale.” ALI CUDBY This is a membership-based learning lounge. Each month members get access to interviews, downloads, and other tools that are designed to help boost lingerie businesses. We talk to industry experts about topics like marketing, buying, merchandising, and selling to help each retailer take their business to the next level. There’s also a private community where members can ask each other questions about their business. No matter what you’re going through in your lingerie business, there’s someone who can help you out. Being a retailer is hard! This is a great way to get the information you need while also being part of a supportive community of likeminded professionals. Créations Lingerie north america #6 - APRIL - JUNE 2014 Why did you decide to help retailers to boost their business? I talk to retailers constantly, so I hear about their challenges and frustrations. As I listened over the years, it occurred to me that a lot of the issues are business fundamentals with a lingerie twist – which aligned exactly with my skills as a lingerie industry expert with a Wharton MBA. Retailers had already shown an interest in getting information online, at their convenience. The Intimate Circle takes the model they enjoy, namely online information, and focuses it on the challenges they are having in their businesses right now. Créations Lingerie north america #6 - APRIL - JUNE 2014 Do you think lot of American retailers need to improve their shops and their “sales technique”? Running your business more effectively isn’t limited to American retailers. There are retailers from all over the globe in both the FabFit Academy and The Intimate Circle; in fact, every continent (except Antarctica) has been represented. Whether companies are just starting out or have been around the block a few times, the best ones are always investing in growth and development. It’s too easy to get sucked into the day-to-day of running a business. The Intimate Circle provides an opportunity to take just a little time each month to focus on the bigger picture – on boost- 7 THE GUEST ing your business. Personally, I think when companies stop thinking about taking things to the next level, that’s the beginning of the slippery slope to stale. So it helps retailers find a little time each month, in a structured way, to focus on growth. store’s brand and target customers, and how you communicate your unique message to those customers. Then it’s about the business processes you use to run effectively – from buying and selling to hiring and firing. Are the Academy and the Guide free? The FabFit Academy and The Intimate Circle are investments retailers make in growing their businesses and are always priced in a way that allows retailers to make back their money many times over by applying the principles that come from the program. It always comes back to the value of being a more efficient and effective business, getting your name out there, bringing more people through the door, and backing everything up with a well-run business that delivers for the owner, the employees and the customer. What are the main mistakes you see being made? I see a lot of retailers who think they should do it all themselves – and as an entrepreneur, by definition you end up wearing a lot of hats. But doing everything alone means no influx of fresh ideas, and it’s too easy to get burnt out. It’s important to realize that you don’t have to do it alone, and the best businesses invest in some outside perspective and energy in order to grow. I also see businesses that run according to gut feeling, instead of a plan. Buying, marketing, hiring and firing – all of these aspects of business need some strategy behind them. Harnessing the power of industry experts to help guide your strategy makes so much more sense for running a successful business. According to you, what are the most important elements needed to boost a lingerie business? All businesses need to be built on Fab Foundations. Just like a bra, if your business doesn’t have a solid foundation, everything sags. So first of all, it’s about making sure your fundamentals are in place. We drill down on questions about a 8 How can a lingerie shop be the most efficient? Having some processes and tools in place for the most important aspects of running a store means being on top of what you need to do. So your foun- Créations Lingerie north america #6 - APRIL - JUNE 2014 THE GUEST dational understanding of your brand and your customers flows into buying plan, which flows into your merchandising plan, which flows into your marketing plan. It’s easy to say, and hard to do alone, particularly when you’re starting from scratch. Do you think a lingerie retailer could also sell swimwear, and vice versa? I think a store’s buying strategy and merchandise mix ultimately boil down to the brand, the customers who shop there, and analysis of the budget. I absolutely know that lingerie retailers can sell swimwear effectively! Whether an individual store should sell swimwear is a separate question. I suspect it’s more challenging for swimwear stores to sell lingerie; however, my area of expertise is lingerie retailers, so I can’t say for sure. What are the star products in lingerie, loungewear, and swimwear that a shop must have in 2015? As always, the product mix a store offers should be tied back to a buying strategy, and a deep understanding of the customers that store serves. When retailers know their customers deeply they will choose a product mix that will be successful for both the customers and the bottom line. n Are the business strategies the same across the US and in Canada? There are some aspects of business strategy that change by location, like laws governing return policies for intimates. Fundamentally, business strategies in market-based economies like the US and Canada are always similar, even though the outcomes differ. In other words, the questions to ask are the same, but the answers are unique to every store’s needs, location, and customer base. Créations Lingerie north america #6 - APRIL - JUNE 2014 9 NEWS HERE & ABROAD BY FRANÇOIS POMÈS, VALÉRIE CHARIER AND LESLIE VALMONT GUIDED TOUR SECRETS OF FRENCH CORSETRY For 33 years, the Wice association has been offering cultural and educational programs to the international and expat community in Paris, to introduce them to the French way of life. On 4th March last year, it unveiled a new programme: the «Paris Lingerie Tour,» designed to explain the French lingerie industry to women and charged at €32. Nine Anglophones, mainly Americans, also found themselves at the Bon Marché, guided by the department store’s lingerie purchaser. Simone Pérèle’s artistic director took the reins to help them discover the brand. Finally, the morning was rounded off with a visit to the neighbouring Implicite boutique, again under the leadership of the artistic director. A comment from 3 people on the tour: «I am going to re-do my lingerie wardrobe…» DOMINIK BOSSERT JOINED THE MARYAN BEACHWEAR GROUP German swimwear group Maryan Beachwear is strengthening its sales force by teaming up with Dominik Bossert, who has become a member of the extended management board. This new associate is well known in the world of sport, having previously worked with the likes of Adidas and Intersport. 10 DKNY TARGETS SPORT AND COMFORT The American brand’s lingerie division introduce two new collection for up and coming niches: one relies on a second skin effect, the other on a specially adapted design for gentle sports (such as yoga). The second skin set is made up of a non-underwired, soft-cup bra (from S to XL) and a pair of lace briefs. It comes in two colours (nude and fuchsia). The sports set includes a non-underwired sports bra, with removable pads, from S to L, and a seamless pair of briefs. It is available in fuchsia, blue, black and white. Créations Lingerie north america #6 - APRIL - JUNE 2014 NEWS HERE & ABROAD MICHA SIEBENHANDL CEO OF HUBER HOLDING Huber Holding, with the eponymous textile company and owner of the Hanro brand, have just appointed Micha Siebenhandl as CEO and Chairman of the Executive board. In the world of optics, he has managed luxury eyewear brands such as Porsche, Dunhill and even Michael Kors. HANRO LAUNCHES A BIRTHDAY COLLECTION To celebrate its 130th birthday, Hanro put all its expertise together in a capsule collection. It is comprised of lingerie, nightwear and loungewear for both men and women. Regarding material, the brand relies on cashmere cotton, cotton tulle and viscose satin, transformed into golden hues, anthracite and Bordeaux red. PASSIONATA BLOWS OUT 25 CANDLES Born at the end of the 80s, which marks «the start of the femininity years,» Passionata has always relied on seduction. In 1998, it attempted something daring: distribute to selective channels as well as hypermarkets. The risk paid off… Its «Passio» line alone, launched in 2005, has sold 27 millions items and has been developed in 44 different colours over the seasons. NEWS HERE & ABROAD LANE BRYANT PREFERS FRENCH LINGERIE Lane Bryant, the leading plus-size clothing chain in America, is teaming up with French designer Sophie Theallet to produce a lingerie capsule collection. The line, featuring floral patterns bras, satin chemises, and lace trim garter skirts, will be available in stores for Fall 2014, in sizes 14-28. The chain of 775 stores has an image issue, though. The subsidiary of Ascena Retail group is said to offer frumpy, moderately priced merchandise. So last year, Linda Heasley, CEO of Lane Bryant, asked designer Isabel Toledo to renew her dress line. And now she is turning to Sophie Theallet to freshen up the Cacique lingerie line. “Sophie Theallet creates vibrant, confident designs,” she said. “It is this exact air of confidence that makes her a perfect fit for Lane Bryant.” Sophie Theallet will bring Lane Bryant stores the French touch that is so appreciated in lingerie. She is a real designer. The creator shows her work twice a year during New York Fashion Week. Sophie Theallet worked for Jean Paul Gaultier and Azzedine Alaia before launching her own brand in 2007. And now the young woman is known for her feminine design, draping, and detailing. She knows how to combine exquisite colors and prints, which is one of the reasons why first lady Michelle Obama is her customer. Sophie Theallet promises to infuse the Lane Bryant line with “sexy, fun, and very feminine” style. The collection will be a bit pricier than usual, but still affordable. Panties are priced at $19.95, bras at $56.50, corsets at $108, and lace trim garter skirts at $55.50. Sleepwear will retail between $39.95 and $109. 14 Créations Lingerie north america #6 - APRIL - JUNE 2014 WOLFORD INNOVATES, IN TIGHTS AND LINGERIE “Pure 50 tights”, is the latest development in tights from the Austrian company. Their addedvalue comes from their manufacturing: the different parts are assembled by glue, and not by sewing, which makes them both comfortable and invisible even under the tightest of clothing. Five colours are available: red, cobalt, black, caviar and mocha. In this same spirit of completely seamless comfort, Wolford launched “Sheer touch“, a second skin set with a slightly shiny element to it. The bras are available in three shapes, from UK sizes 32 to 38, cups A to D, which go together with four bottoms (tanga briefs, control pants, control shorts, and a forming skirt). All available in powder pink and black. FREYA TESTS ITS NEW SPORTS BRA IN REALISTIC CONDITIONS HYOSUNG CELEBRATES 21 YEARS OF ELASTANE The Korean producer, who has more than 73 companies and branches around the world, turned its focus to spandex 21 years ago in launching its creora® brand. On its anniversary, it announced the new sub-brand developed by this niche: creora® Color+ (dyed elastane), creora® eco-soft (which eliminates heat), creora® Black (run-proof) and creora® highclo™(chlorine resistant). 16 To promote the launch of its new sports bra, Freya conducted a study with the University of Portsmouth on breast movement during sport. Specialists analysed how the breasts bounced but also the strain put on them and the pain caused on nineteen impact points. The panel consisted of women ranging over seven different bra sizes, from 32FF to 36E. It appears that the new Freya bra reduces breast strain to 3% (compared to a 28% strain reported for an everyday bra) and reduces breast pain by up to 97% compared to no bra running (while an everyday bra reduces pain by only 58%). 92% of women tested also felt that this new sports bra reduced independent breast movement. This new microfiber underwear is also breathable and has an odour-control finish. It is available in sizes 34B to 36H in indigo blue, pink and cosmic black. Créations Lingerie north america #6 - APRIL - JUNE 2014 RÖSCH BRINGS AFRICAN COTTON TO ITS NIGHTWEAR RANGE To provide greater transparency in its textile chain, Rösch launches a new nightwear lingerie collection made from 100% ‘made in Africa’ cotton, produced in accordance with the new Aid by Trade Foundation standard – which focuses on sustainable development. There are eight designs (nightwear t-shirts, long and short-sleeved, nightdresses, ¾ length trousers), offered in turquoise, red berry, anthracite and white. HANRO CELEBRATES TURNING 130 In 1884, the Swiss brand made a name for itself, deciding to offer sleek underwear made with topof-the-range materials. Quickly renowned for their quality, Hanro was most notably the supplier of Marilyn Monroe’s high waisted pants in «The Seven Year Itch» and Nicole Kidman’s tank top in «Eyes Wide Shut». MAISON LEJABY CELEBRATES 130 YEARS The brand had its ups and downs in the noughties, before being taken over in 2012 and renamed Maison Lejaby in reference to its «French fashion spirit». From its second year of operating, the «new» brand announces renewed growth. Créations Lingerie north america #6 - APRIL - JUNE 2014 17 NEWS HERE & ABROAD ERES AND NET-A-PORTER WED Swimwear and lingerie brand Erès, part of the Chanel family, has just entered into a global partnership with the website Net-a-porter. “We chose this partnership with Net-a-porter because we had a positive experience with them two and a half years ago,” explained Olivier Mauny, Managing Director of the brand. “They are one of the key players on the Internet; they’re connected to high-end clients, and the way they deal with brands aligns with our expectations.” For Mauny, this alliance will help Erès grow significantly in Asia and North America; currently, the company doesn’t have an online presence on these continents, and its network of shops is limited there. OLIVIER DE CROIZANT JOINS BARBARA Olivier de Croizant, former Exports Director of Aubade, has joined French lingerie brand Barbara. After two years with Princesse Tam Tam and six with Aubade, Croizant is taking on a new challenge with a brand whose exports represent almost half of their sales, or about six million dollars. Croizant would do well to first consolidate the brand’s solid export markets – Asia and Russia – and then move on to conquer other continents. JOURNELLE WINS FORMER DESIGNER OF VICTORIA’S SECRET Journelle has just hired Rania Abu-Eid, one of Victoria’s Secret’s kingpins, who spent eight years designing the brand’s major collections. Journelle, for its part, aims to launch its own private label collection, and subsequently open new stores. EVEN ALTERNATIVE APPAREL IS GIVING ACTIVEWEAR A TRY Alternative Apparel is launching Move, an activewear line that will be available at Nordstrom in June for under $100. Fitness fans that are also fashion-oriented will find about 20 pieces in the collection, which are made from organic pima cotton, four-way stretch cotton, recycled cotton-polyester, and other eco-friendly fabrics with antimicrobial properties. After a month of exclusive sales, the line will be available in other select stores. TIANHAI LACE USA HAS A NEW PRESIDENT Suzanne Beck has been named President of Tianhai Lace USA, part of Tianhai Lace Co., Ltd., one of the leading innovative lace suppliers in the industry, with over 1,000 employees. The offices of Tianhai Lace USA are in New York and Tianhai Lace Co., Ltd. is based in Guangzhou, China. Beck has been Tianhai Lace USA’s Vice President of Sales for the last seven years. Prior to that, she spent three years as Account Executive for Takeda Lace Ltd. and 18 years with Liberty Fabrics. Flora Chao, internationally recognized for her innovative and commercial lace designs, brought Tianhai Lace to the United States over a dozen years ago. She will continue as Director of Design for Tianhai Lace USA. MAD MEN DESIGNER CREATES HER OWN TIGHTS Mad Men costume designer, Janie Bryant is launching her own collection of tights for fall 2014. The new venture, called Jane Bryant Leg Couture, is being produced by Doris International. The creator, daughter and grand-daughter of hosiery professionals, was inspired by classic glamour movies such as “Gone with the Wind”. The black, nude and gray lycra collection offers crochet styles, sparkling beading and more simple options. Janie Bryant aims to reach the affordable luxury niche with prices ranging from $18 to $35. More than 100 doors should have it this fall. Mad Men characters already promise to wear Jane Bryant Leg Couture. Christina Hendricks, a/k/a Joan on the Mad Men show, is a fan. NEWS HERE & ABROAD ANITA MATERNITY LAUNCHES A SEAMLESS LINE For several months now, North American retailers have been able to offer a wider selection of Anita Maternity apparel to their customers. The German brand, well known in the American market for flawless quality and its products’ expert fit, now offers a seamless collection for pregnant women. Available in black, silver grey, rosewater, and hot pink in limited edition, the line is made of breathable microfiber. The maternity pieces are lightweight and low-maintenance, and the postpartum items have cups that can be unfastened for easy nursing. The back closure has four positions to be adaptable to variations in chest size. Available in sizes S-XL. DITA VON TEESE LINGERIE AVAILABLE AT BLOOMINGDALE’S The burlesque queen, Dita Von Teese, is launching her lingerie brand in America at Bloomingdale’s Department Store. The luxury retailer has signed a six-month exclusive deal, beginning mid-March, with the Australian company DCI Corp, which manufactures and distributes the brand. «It is part of Bloomingdale’s DNA to merge pop culture with fashion, so we are excited to offer our loyal customers the first opportunity to shop Dita Von Teese’s lingerie collection,» said Francine Klein, Bloomingdale’s Executive Vice President of intimate apparel. Dita Von Teese loves it. «I am honored to have my lingerie debut at Bloomingdale’s, the iconic department store that represents such style and sophistication,» she commented. The artist was inspired by vintage pieces from the eras of the thirties, the forties and the fifties. Her collection is made of bras ($65 to $100), panties ($25 to $55), and full slips ($400). It is divided into several themes: Feminine Parisienne, Leopard Prints, The Daring Madame X, Her Sexellency, Sheer Witchery, and Man Catcher. Dita Von Teese focuses on playing up the retro glamour spirit. To emphasize a burlesque obsession, she includes miniature cameos, tassels, velvet bows, European laces with flower patterns, and eyelash effects. The collection is being hosted at two Bloomingdale’s in New York City on 59th Street and in Soho; in Aventura, Florida, Century City and San Francisco in California, and White Plains, New York; and online at Bloomingdales.com. DCI Corp executives expect sales for the first year to be $10 million in America. UP-AND-COMING Cache Cœur Offers New Maternity Intimates Better positioning of one’s merchandise, better sales techniques, and better knowledge of the market: this is what Ali Cudby, well-known as a consultant and blogger in the intimate apparel world, has to offer. We recently spoke with her. BY FANÇOIS POMÈS A udrey and Philippe Trolliet launched the brand Cache Coeur in France in 2008 to offer pregnant women an intimate apparel collection that could be both practical and aesthetically pleasing. Available in about 40 countries, the brand made its début at the Curve Expo last August to begin its conquest of the American market. Cache Coeur is offering a line of intimates (including seamless, microfiber items that feel like a second skin), loungewear, and, most recently, swimwear. The apparel is moderately priced, with a set costing about $100 and swimsuits starting at $70. Audrey Trolliet spoke with us about Cache Coeur’s strategy for the North American market. What makes your brand unique? Cache Coeur seeks to revolutionize the maternity and nursing market by offering it the refinement and traditional techniques of French corsetry. Why take on the American market? The dream of Cache Coeur’s leaders has always been to have a presence in the US and Canadian markets; the company’s story began in the States. During a trip to New York, when Audrey and Philippe Trolliet entered a store that sold intimates for nursing 22 women, they became aware of the products’ lack of femininity and, thus, of the potential market. So, they made the decision to take on the challenge of starting their own business with the goal of producing quality, feminine maternity and nursing intimates. Has the merchandise been adapted to American sizes and trends? Many product adaptations were made to respond to the needs and desires of American customers. The brand will now carry cup sizes G and H in intimates and XXL in the new swimwear collection. We’ve also developed several bra lines made using “Spacer” material, which is ultra breathable and perfectly suited to the maternity and nursing market. What is your price range? Cache Coeur offers high-end products made from quality, ultra soft fabrics with quality finishing and skill. The price of a corsetry bra varies from $54.99 to $99.99. What are your distribution channels? Many specialty stores for mothers-to-be carry the brand in the States, but we plan to expand our network. n Créations Lingerie north america #6 - APRIL - JUNE 2014 Top Stores SPRING SELECTION Dozens of American and Canadian shops sent us photos of their window displays for this edition. The five winners, selected for the visual and commercial appeal of their photos, will each receive a mounted, 16x20-inch poster of their page. BY FRANÇOIS POMÈS Thanks to all the shops that participated. Be sure to try again in the next round by sending us: • An assortment of 3-6 high-resolution photographs of your shop’s interior and exterior • A text describing your shop (approximately 600 characters) • Tricks and tips that you’d like to share for improving sales Submit them by e-mail to: [email protected] Deadline for July’s edition: June 16, 2014 INSIDE STORY FINE LINGERIE OAKVILLE ‘‘ THE BOUTIQUE “Inside Story Fine Lingerie is owned and operated by Lida Lisney, who acquired the boutique in 2003 after working there as a parttime employee. Using exceptional customer service skills from her previous career as a flight attendant coupled with a keen eye for beautiful lingerie, Lida quickly brought the dated store into the 21st century. Today, Inside Story has two locations, in Oakville and Mississauga. Lida’s mission is simple: make the customer, who will 95% of the time be a woman, feel amazing both inside and out. Through outstanding fitting techniques, and a staff of highlytrained, compassionate, but most importantly upbeat ladies, Inside Story achieves this goal day in and day out.” TIPS & TRICKS TO IMPROVE SALES • “ NEWSLETTERS AND BLOGS This day and age, it is very important to keep your customers informed and engaged. Fashion trends in colors are now, more than ever translating into foundations as well. Everyone likes to be “in the know”. • OVER-THE-TOP EXCELLENT CUSTOMER SERVICE What distinguishes one similar business from another if they are selling a similar product is their reputation for dealing with their clientele. It’s imperative to keep the reputation highly positive and the easiest way to do that is offering excellent customer service. For example, following up with a customer when they are looking for something specific – going above and beyond to find a solution to their wardrobe query. Thanking customers with special offers is another way to make them feel special. In the fitting room, it’s key to explain why the fitting is being done this way, as well as the key elements to a fit. This genuine and caring approach to your clientele’s lingerie needs will get them to trust you implicitly as well as increase sales through word of mouth referrals. • EFFECTIVE PROMOTIONS HIGHLIGHTING BRANDS IN THE STORE This is a great way to get a customer that normally only buys one brand to give another a try with an incentive. We do this type of “sales drive” through e-blasts that are labeled VIP Inside Story Promos. The timing of these “events” is key, as we do not want to inundate our clientele with too many e-blasts. We want them to feel special. • UPSELLING TECHNIQUES THAT ARE MORE SUGGESTIVE THAN PUSHY While a customer is in the changing room, they are your captive audience. You bring in the underwear to match the bra by simply placing it in the room. Bring in a sports bra or a swim top that is in their bra size. This almost always leads to an increase in sales.” Address (Oakville): 107 Reynolds St, Oakville, ON L6J3K4, Canada Address (Mississauga): 1900 Dundas St W, Mississauga, ON L5K1P9, Canada Phone: (905) 845-1210 / (905) 855-8880 Owners: Lida Lisney Web Site: www.insidestory.ca Email: [email protected] Address: 71 W. Houston St. New York, NY 10012 Phone: (212) 387-7788 Owners: Yukinaka Morita Web Site: www.kaoriscloset.com Email: [email protected] KAORI’S CLOSET TOKYO NEW YORK ‘‘ THE BOUTIQUE “Founded in 2008, Kaori’s Closet TOKYO is a designer lingerie boutique located in the fashionable Soho neighborhood of New York, offering beautiful lingerie, loungewear, and swimwear, from sexy to adorable. We are known for our large selection of soft bras and bralettes, which are both functional and comfortable. We have a wide range of sizes, with cups running up to G and our signature Japanese brand band size starting from 28.” TIPS & TRICKS TO IMPROVE SALES “We have a unique collection from all over the world, focusing on Japanese Brands that cannot be found anywhere else in the world!” 26 Créations Lingerie north america #6 - APRIL - JUNE 2014 BENEATH THE GOWN BRANFORD ‘‘ THE BOUTIQUE “Located in the heart of Branford, Connecticut, a quintessential New England town, Beneath the Gown offers an exquisite collection of European designer labels made of fine silks and laces. Be swept away into a Parisian inspired boutique echoing old-fashioned romance and timeless experience. Shoppers can choose from a wide selection of sophisticated, classy, and feminine lingerie and swimwear. Josie Jolon, owner and designer, specializes in customizing and custom creating unique pieces for the client looking for a personalized piece.” TIPS & TRICKS TO IMPROVE SALES “LQuality, exclusivity, and impeccable service are the words of the day for this boutique, which provides one-onone complimentary fitting consultations with one of their specialists. Josie Jolon has become famous for advising and guiding her clients in selecting the perfect foundations over a cup of coffee or tea in a relaxing atmosphere. To add an extra touch of luxury, the boutique organizes after-hours shopping for clients who want to host a girls’ night or for the customer that wants a more personal shopping experience with their significant other. The success and increasing popularity of Beneath the Gown is due to their attention to detail, getting to know their clients, and getting to be part of their special moments, thus welcoming them into the Beneath The Gown family. Their motto, “A beautiful gown starts with the perfect foundation”, echoes their aim for every customer to leave the boutique feeling comfortable, confident and beautiful. They work with some of the industry’s best photographers and offer their clients on-site styling the day of the shoot. Their success is due to the attention and service they provide all their clients. While they recommend their clients make an appointment, walk-ins are always welcome.” Address: 1120 Main Street, Branford, CT 06405 Phone: (203) 433-2023 Owners: Josie Jolon Web Site: www.beneaththegown.com Email: [email protected] THEE LINGERIE SHOPPE REGINA Address: 4037 Albert Street, Regina, SK S4S 3R6 Phone: : (306) 359-3373 Owners: Linda Paul Web Site: www.tlsbras.com Email: [email protected] ‘‘ THE BOUTIQUE “The Lingerie Shoppe opened as a family business in 1979 in Regina, Saskatchewan. Where, you might ask? Regina is a small city in central Canada, but we are bursting with small-town community pride. Over the years we continue to fit women of all ages and sizes to ensure properly fitting undergarments. To accomplish our mission we help our customers one at a time on a personal level and bring them the proper size instead of promoting a serve yourself atmosphere. Our staff genuinely cares and enjoys helping women. It’s often a struggle to find the right size, but we believe with a bit of humor, a lot of compassion, and the correct knowledge, we can build a relationship with our customers to make sure they keep coming back!” TIPS & TRICKS TO IMPROVE SALES “Dianne’s Trick: Dianne likes to show off what she’s wearing! Don’t be shy and flaunt what you have on! The customers like to see you are wearing the product as well. She is a walking billboard! Linda’s Tip: Treat every customer like they are family. Be generous with your smiles and hugs! Val’s Tip: Life is a special occasion. Don’t wait until you lose weight or have a special occasion – buy and wear for today! Charlene’s Trick: Laugh, laugh, laugh. Show off your sense of humor and be able to laugh at yourself.” 28 Créations Lingerie north america #6 - APRIL - JUNE 2014 LEGS PLUS BRA BOUTIQUE TORONTO ‘‘ Address: 5867 Leslie St., Toronto, ON M2H 1J8, Canada Phone: (416) 497-2350 Owners: Randi & Rhonda Web Site: www.braboutique.com Email: [email protected] & THE BOUTIQUE “Over the past 31 years, Legs Plus & Bra Boutique , has been guiding women of all ages, shapes, and sizes on how to find the most comfortable, properly fit, & supportive, intimate apparel. Bra Fit enthusiasts and owners, Rhonda Finkelstein & Randi Szymkowicz & staff, help women discover what well-fitted underpinnings can do for their appearance and self-esteem. Educating women on the importance of fit allows them to understand how easy it is to achieve everyday comfort that lasts all day! We are a place that empowers women, and we help them to feel good about themselves. We make purchasing a bra fun, easy, and convenient, and show how proper fitting bras & shapewear will enhance their natural beauty. We offer numerous international brands & styles, the latest silhouettes, colors, & fabrics that are affordable, practical, and fashionable. Size ranges from 28-56 A-N & XS -10X. From minimizers to maximizers, sports bras, maternity, and surgical, we offer the best selection of intimates available. Customers shop at our boutique because we understand their needs. We have developed an outstanding reputation based upon our heartwarming personalities and determination to make our customers feel valued. And it is through this mission that we have created over 31 years of a loyal following, both in store and online.” TIPS & TRICKS TO IMPROVE SALES “• On line web boutique since the early 1990’s • Social media to spread our branding through Twitter & Facebook • Customer Appreciation events & offers • Customer Loyalty program offering dollar value discounts toward future purchases • Bra Fit Seminars • Social conscience: supporting our community & organizations in need •E ducating ourselves and staff on product knowledge and selling techniques.” Créations Lingerie north america #6 - APRIL - JUNE 2014 EVENT Lingerie Fashion Night “In” Highlights of the first Lingerie Fashion Night “In” organized by Eurovet: Créations Lingerie North America served as its first press partner. The evening event held last February 24 in TriBeCa Skyline Studios was a success. The evening was a début event for the organizer Eurovet, which held Lingerie Fashion Night “In”, its very first fashion show in New York since Pierre-Nicolas Hurstel began running its Curve expos. Present at the event were 35 brands, 250 buyers, and 60 members of the press, including Créations Lingerie North America. With a well-planned location, cocktails, buffet, and guests, the event earned praise all around. But the second annual event will have to respond to feedback related to the length of the fashion show - which included about 100 items - and the quality of the models, who sometimes seemed a bit amateur. “The length of the fashion show will be greatly reduced,” explained PierreNicolas Hurstel following the event. “In all the excitement stirred up by the Lingerie Fashion Night ‘In’ campaign, all of the brands wanted to participate!” Model and item selection will be stricter for the next event, scheduled for February 2015. PHOTOS BY CHARLES ROUSSEL PSD SOKOLOFF CURVY COUTURE LEONISA COQUETTE ELLE MACPHERSON RAGO PANACHE CAKE LINGERIE LOU TRIUMPH EMPREINTE AUBADE VANNINA VESPERINI SIMONE PÉRÈLE ANITA INTERVIEW Smart Intimates for Smart People Lingerie, shapewear, and now swimwear: after ALI CUDBLY about ten years in the business, Commando has developed a vast selection of technical apparel that wins over both retailers and consumers. Here, we explored their recipe for success. BY FANÇOIS POMÈS I n 2003, after ten years in the fast-paced city of New York holding leadership positions at Weber Shandwick and Edelman Financial, Kerry O’Brien decided to found Commando in Vermont. Within a few years, the brand had become a key player in the intimate apparel and hosiery, first in the United States, and then internationally. The company has become known for its effective and invisible shapewear lines, and has now begun producing swimwear. What are Commando’s strengths? How, with simple, technical product, was this company able to take such a sizeable bite of the market while others just broke their teeth? We spoke with the exceptional creator herself to find out. What is the Commando DNA? Commando, the pioneer of invisible raw-cut underwear made without elastic or trim, is at the intersection of fashion and function. Continuous innovation is behind everything we do. Our designs 36 are contemporary, flattering, supremely comfortable, and always in sync with what’s happening on the runway and on the street. In fact, Commando is the must-have underwear and hosiery brand for many top designers when styling their New York Fashion Week shows each season. In 2012, I was honored to be inducted into the Council of Fashion Designers of America. It’s quite an honor to be in the company of industry icons like Josie Natori and Carole Hochman, and I think it speaks to my passion for innovation in intimate apparel. How do you create the products? I always think about the products I would like to wear. What do my sisters and my friends want? How can we create a garment that’s uniquely Commando and unlike anything else in the market? Those are the questions that drive me, and my design team, every day. Undergarments are the first and most intimate thing a woman puts on when she gets dressed in the morning. It’s the Créations Lingerie north america #6 - APRIL - JUNE 2014 INTERVIEW How important and dynamic is the shapewear market in the US and Canada? I feel Commando has established a strong, clear voice in the crowded shapewear market by focusing on what we do best. Contemporary designs using luxury technical fabrics with signature raw-cut invisible edges are our sweet spot. We’re the recognized industry leader in raw-cut construction. Shapewear is an important and evolving category within intimate apparel in both the US and Canadian markets and we’re seeing established brands broadening their distribution channels and price points. We’re concentrating on what makes Commando different and special rather than diffusing the brand and confusing the consumer. How different Commando shapewear is compared to other shapewear brands? Commando control is the next generation of contemporary luxury shapewear. We call it smoothed not stuffed because it provides comfortable, all-day smoothing without the heavy compression, digging and accompanying discomfort of the industrial-strength shapewear that dominates the market. When we were launching the category we heard from so many women that their shapewear makes them feel like a stuffed sausage. Our light compression and gentle smoothing, combined with our elastic-free waist, make Commando control the shapewear they actually want to wear. basis for a great outfit and can set the mood for her day. I want to give her styles that are fashionable, fit seamlessly into her busy lifestyle and make her feel beautiful and confident. We also infuse a sense of humor and fun into everything we do from hang tags to playful prints. Who is the Commando consumer? The Commando consumer is fashion-conscious and discriminating. She has her pick of intimates brands and chooses Commando because we make her look and feel fabulous. I also believe she appreciates the fact that our products are made in the USA. We have teenagers and grandmothers who are fans of the brand, so it really runs the gamut. I think the common thread is these are women who feel we “get” her and provide products that enhance her life. She doesn’t want to have to think about her underwear or be concerned with comfort; she knows when she’s going Commando it’s effortless. Créations Lingerie north america #6 - APRIL - JUNE 2014 Is it easy to make shapewear lingerie as invisible as possible? I definitely wouldn’t say creating shapewear that’s invisible is easy. We’ve worked very hard in the design and product development process to make it a reality and the market has responded extremely positively. We entered the category with Commando control in March 2012, a collection of six styles in a sister fabric to our signature raw-cut microfiber. Since then we’ve expanded our offering to include the industry’s only raw-cut cotton shapewear and our recently launched double-faced tech line, which has generated a lot of excitement in the press and with our customers. The line includes three shaping slip styles in a state-of-the art, doublefaced fabric with cozy cotton on the inside and silky microfiber on the outside. There’s nothing else like it and it’s quickly becoming a favorite of fashion editors and celebrity stylists. Our featherlight control, which is just hitting stores for spring, is our lightest invisible option, perfect for warmer weather. We will continue to go where the technology takes us and there are definitely new invisible fabrications in the works. What are the bestsellers? All of our control styles are strong sellers and I would say our thongs, briefs, and new double-faced tech slips are particular standouts. Commando control hosiery continues to be a very successful segment of our overall hosiery business, which has 37 INTERVIEW grown significantly every year since we launched the category in 2009. Our hosiery line is a great example of our approach to new categories - combining best-in-class luxury legs with our revolutionary, patented dig-free waistband. We’ve developed a truly unique garment that speaks to our customers’ need for luxury and comfort. “We heard from so many women that their shapewear makes them feel like a stuffed sausage.” 38 Can your products accommodate full-chested women? We fit test our products on a wide range of women with many different body types. What are your top 5 countries where you sell Commando products? The majority of Commando’s sales are in the US and Canada, with a growing international presence with customers like Lane Crawford in Hong Kong and our newest worldwide partner, Net-a-Porter. We’re still a young brand and our distribution strategy has been focused on establishing strong relationships with the top retailers in North America. I have a special affinity for the independent specialty boutiques that helped me launch the brand and continue to be so important to our business today. We’re sold in the best department stores in the world including Bergdorf Goodman, Bloomingdale’s, Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom, and Saks Fifth Avenue, as Créations Lingerie north america #6 - APRIL - JUNE 2014 INTERVIEW well as online through industry leaders like Bare Necessities and Her Room. Our retailers are incredible partners and merchants who have embraced Commando. Building on that momentum, we see a big opportunity for expanding our international distribution in the next year or two. How could you help a retailer to boost their sales with Commando products? Commando is a very strong and recognizable brand with significant momentum and excitement behind us. We believe creating incredible products and telling the story of what makes them different and special is the best way to support our retailers. When fashion editors say our tights are their favorites year after year and our underwear is called a red carpet must-have by celebrity stylists, this translates to increased sales. What are the following developments and commitments? We’re especially excited about new innovations in our control hosiery collection including a super-flattering shapewear legging that I expect will become a go-to item in my wardrobe. How important is the swimwear market for you? We’re very new to the swim category and we’re taking a steady Créations Lingerie north america #6 - APRIL - JUNE 2014 long-term approach. We launched the Commando reversible swim collection last July at the Swim Show in Miami, so 2014 will be our first full year of sales. We’re having a lot of fun translating the Commando voice to this new category and we’ve enjoyed some great media exposure. We’ve taken our experience in expertly fitting a woman’s body and our obsession with luxury European fabrics and created a well-edited line of reversible suits that allow our customers to look and feel great whether lounging by the pool with a cocktail or playing on the beach with her kids. It’s Commando’s updated take on the rash guard done in high-tech, raw-cut microfiber with a sexy body-conscious fit and SPF50+ sun protection. We continue to refine the fit and the next generation of Commando swim will debut at the Miami Swim Show this summer. We’re planning to unveil some breakthrough technologies that we’re very excited about. Which part of your global sales is made by your own website? Our incredible retail partners are the first line for consumers to purchase Commando products, but since no one retailer carries every style, our site is a service and an important touch point for consumers, buyers, and the press to engage with the brand and become as excited about it as we are. n 39 FEATURE New brands, New Luxury New corsetry collections are emerging both in independent boutiques and online. Love Haus is playing the affordable luxury card, while Angela Friedman and Nevaeh Intimates both cultivate a more expensive luxury niche. BY LESLIE VALMONT L ove Haus, a new Californian corsetry line, aspires to be "European sexy...at an American price". "We offer affordable luxury with a lot of pieces under $100," says Jaymi Washburn, Vice President of design. The line, launched in October 2013, works with fabrics like stretch satin and French terry from top European mills, but its "edgy, young styles" looks decidedly Californian. Washburn, who introduced Love Haus at Curve Las Vegas, emphasizes the daring designs of her sheer lace bralettes, sultry balconette bras, and micro thong panties. Love Haus aims to differentiate itself with its original 3-black straps that replace the usual strap or nude lace, giving an illusion of nudity. Jaymi Washburn also likes to combine neon color with nude nuances or bright orange with animal prints. Love Haus, which is aiming for a more contemporary look, is a line quite different from that of Angela Friedman or Nevaeh Intimates, two other new brands that are playing the vintage card. Melissa Franchi, the creator of Nevaeh, a Native American name that translates to "the secret gates of paradise", is inspired by the decadent glamour of old Hollywood of the 1930s. Her 15-piece collection is chock full of teasing keyholes, Swarovski crystals, metal bee buttons, and novelties like detachable garters on the brief. Franchi certainly knows how to use colors - midnight seduction, berry forbidden, and purple dusk, among others - as well as pretty prints like the Monet floral theme. Word of Mouth and Crowdfunding Angela Friedman also reveals a love affair with the 1930's and 1940's. A former costume designer of The New York City Ballet, she avoids "neon or bright colors", preferring instead such hues as 40 "timeless, classic" pink, neutral grays and black... preferably in Korean silk, or French lace from Solstiss. "I may use a little bit of mesh, 3% spandex," she confesses, but nothing looks better to her eye than old lace appliques or bias cut silk. These two new brands come in at a much higher price point than Love Haus. The Italian silks and Leavers lace of Nevaeh Intimates justify a price range of $86 to $280. Angela Friedman, known for her corsets made in the New York Garment District, charges a luxury price of $475; some items even retail at $800. "It is hard to find customers," admits Angela Friedman, who is selling her collection in a few independent boutiques like La Petite Coquette in New York City. However, word of mouth and the online buzz help. Love Haus is to be found on www.revolve.com and www.shopobop.com. The Nevaeh floral prints are online at www.bellabellaboutique.com and www.bychezboutique.com. With the help of Google, The Angela Friedman Collection is finding converts in Australia, Canada, Russia, and Singapore. She plays it both ways: modern and traditional. The designer was able to use crowdfunding to launch her company in 2012, asking her potential customers to pay in advance for their corsets, but she is also trying retro methods like private trunk shows to grow her company. Angela Friedman welcomes friends and friends of friends at private home shows, where there is no fluorescent lighting. Instead, "Candles, food and champagne create an intimate atmosphere," she says. A charming ambiance for shopping, indeed. n Créations Lingerie north america #6 - APRIL - JUNE 2014 “These days the plus-size customer enjoys more colors, and she look for bras to wear for any activity.” ANGELA FRIEDMAN LOVE HAUS NEVAEH “Judith Fine of Gazebo, who challenged the loungewear trend, said that in her store, she would prefer to call it Presentable Sleepwear.” EBERJEY 42 Créations Lingerie north america #6 - APRIL - JUNE 2014 LINGERIE BRIEFS CHRONICLES Easy Wear: A New Generation of Loungewear Shifts The Intimate Landscape BY ELLEN LEWIS OF LINGERIE BRIEFS S “ omething is happening out here”: loungewear, whose moniker I am re-labeling to Easy Wear, is emerging as a viable profit segment in the Intimate Apparel Industry. My merchant nose smells a sea change in market attitude towards this business much as we noticed with shapewear several seasons ago. Although the classification was strong in Paris as it usually is with brands such as Laurence Tavernier, Pluto and Hanro front and center, it was the prevalence of the category at Curve and in NYC showrooms recently that has caught my attention. Two points stand out: sleepwear vendors have shifted design direction adding several collections meant to be worn outside of the bedroom and new players have entered the market with clear intent to penetrate the industry via the casual comfort clothing channel. The opportunity for lingerie retailers to capitalize on this burgeoning apparel tier is substantial. But, you must remember; this is NOT your mother’s caftan! Dual Purposes To examine the underlying influences driving this opportunity, one needs only to understand the American lifestyle DNA; a focus on action, ease and innovation. As economic necessity has forced a change in social priorities, women who are always multitasking, are more than ever home, child and health centric and have become less and less inclined to dress up. They need to put it on in the morning and move through the day without thinking about propriety or change. Once a medium attributed primarily Créations Lingerie north america #6 - APRIL - JUNE 2014 43 LINGERIE BRIEFS CHRONICLES to the apparel and sports market, the compass has shifted, opening up opportunity for Intimate Retailers. Brands that have driven this change, such as Lulu Lemon are the purview of a young sophisticated consumer. This trend, interpreted in lightweight, soft fabrics with a feminine twist has changed the landscape for many Lingerie stores. For on-line retailers such as Bare necessities.com and Herroom.com, it has fueled the growth in the active wear, a current focus for their inventories. Brands like Eberjey, oft cited by retailers as one of the best performers in this category, saw the light several seasons back. Founder Mariela Rovito told me “Loungewear today has become an important part of the ever-growing sleepwear business. We’re finding that our customer wants to have wardrobe pieces that serve dual purposes and can be worn both in the house and out. We’ve seen a big increase in this part of our business and are incorporating more loungewear styles into our assortment. Cosabella goes one step further with the introduction of a totally separate brand CSBLA, a lifestyle casual wear line targeted simultaneously at lingerie boutiques and apparel stores. Guido Campello, VP of Sales, Branding and Innovation, highlights the importance of fabrics with textured surfaces, in contemporary shapes with crossover purpose. “10 years ago loungewear had a place in the Intimate boutiques and then the bra fitting machine and sleepwear took over. Now the California influence on fashion has given this category new life.” And then of course, there is the PJ Salvage pajama powerhouse, who launched the PJ Luxe Collection a few years ago, confirming their position as a creator of 10 mile wear; easy, comfortable and affordable separates that go from the bedroom to the kitchen, carpool, supermarket and home again. One only need analyze the influence of the Donna Karen design school, expertly executed for this category by DKNY for Komar, to comprehend the potential. From a personal perspective, the influx of brands presenting Easy Wear in soft seductive materials engineered in modern shapes is certified by newcomers UGG in cuddly fleece, Maison Papillion in silk and Addition “Nouvelle Lingerie” in micro-modal. And watching the growth of SKIN, the brand conceived by founder and designer Susan Beischel to emulate a woman’s quest for serenity, comfort and sensuality, there is no doubt that Easy Wear designed in natural fabrics with comfort as the caché is a creative force positioned to dominate a woman’s wardrobe. I thought that the real struggle would be convincing Lingerie retailers of the potential in this business channel. I was surprised at the response. I asked a group of lingerie retailers’ five questions to fortify my instincts about this emerging business: • Do you agree with my observation? • What is showing promise as far as styles? • Which brands look and perform well? Why? • Are you adding any OTB to this space? • Do you see additional opportunity here? 44 Big Opportunity First and foremost, no one denied the viability of the category. Even Judith Fine of Gazebo, who challenged the loungewear trend, said that in her store, she would prefer to call it Presentable Sleepwear such as Hanro and Calida. Stores like La Silhouette in Madeira Ohio, sell classy “hangout Clothes” targeting a customer 40-60 years of age. Pants with baggy tops in fabrics that feel like cashmere but are not yoga pants are trending. According to owner Britt Cruikshank, color expansion is critical and design details matter. She mentions brands such as N-Gal and La Perla Studio. Sarah Wiener, owner of Trousseau on Virginia sees big potential in styles that offer bust support. Sarah says bringing a great piece into the fitting room helps gain customer interest. Citing the growth of brands such as Eberjey, Fleur’t, Kenan, Cosabella, Pj Salvage and Midnight as they expand the category reinforces the belief that woman are ready to focus on this part of their wardrobes. Cyla Weiner of Sylenes concurs with the brand assessment mentioned by other boutiques intending to allocate dollars to this trend. Angie Courtney of Sweetest Sin in Red Bank, NJ is adding Open To Buy to this niche, seeing additional opportunity in brands like Between The Sheets. She is actively looking for more independent lines designed in cotton based materials. Cindy Johnson of Sol of Denver has seen the volume increase consistently for the past 4 years and already the store has committed to a plus over last year inventory for fall 2014. Concurring with Sarah’s assessment of educating the customer she told me “I think there is a big opportunity to add on this sale rather than giving it to another store. Explaining the benefit to your customer is all it takes and then they are hooked!” Sarah Wizeman, Lille Boutique in Portland Oregon, calls out Skin as exemplary of fine natural fabrics designed with trendy details that can be incorporated into Ready To Wear Wardrobes. Jeanne Emory is expanding her assortment looking to the prospect of satisfying women up to 3X at Bra Genie in Mandeville, LA where their best-selling bra sizes are F, FF and G. She feels that many of the current sleep brands neglect this woman and so she is adding OTB to her budget to satisfy this “normal” woman, looking to brands such as Linda Hartman, Barefoot Dreams and Ugg for fall. At Bra & Girl in Great Barrington, Mass, April Burch tells me “cross-over styles or styles that are multifunctional-styles that can function as daywear as well as sleepwear” are the go to items. At A La Mode in Annapolis, MD, Fleur’t is a growth brand. Searching for crop pants, ¾ tops with bust support, loose, longer t-tops and forgiving fabrics, owner Patti Platt sees great opportunity in this domain. Kelly O’Brian of Linger Lingerie states “Customers are looking for soft fabrics with interesting feminine details: straps, ties, shelf bras (or not) and pockets as well as PJs which are styled to look like ready-to-wear.” Lindsey cites the casual lifestyle of her Seattle Based business, Bellefleur: “People wanting a different style of clothing -looser, more free flowing, casual and Créations Lingerie north america #6 - APRIL - JUNE 2014 BETWEEN THE SHEETS LAURENCE TAVERNIER PLUTO SKIN A comfortable yet attractive and less conservative- to wear for festivals, cruises, summer homes, and vacations has also always been a popular concept here.” Lindsey Runyon cites Only Hearts for their “on trend” styling and Cosabella for their “great color” She sees opportunity in the concept of “elegant lounging” for future growth. When I asked Barbara’s New Beginnings about the expansion of the Lounge category Barbara told me “Absolutely! The variety and trendiness in the new fall season’s offerings are inspiring! We are excited to carry more styles of loungewear to make our customers feel and look amazing during their downtime or even for cozy errand-running.” There comes a point in life when women shift their priorities. Sometimes it’s about family, but often, it is a coming into one’s own self. As a lifelong advocate of simple comfort as a statement of elegance in fashion, I am excited about the rise in Easy Wear in the Intimate Market. Above all else, it satisfies a lifestyle need that if designed and proffered correctly, will establish itself as a critical piece of Lingerie Boutique Inventories. n Créations Lingerie north america #6 - APRIL - JUNE 2014 FROU FROU FLEUR’T WHATIS LINGERIE BRIEFS? BETWEEN THE SHEETS P.J. SALVAGE One of the ‘must read’ lingerie sites, Lingerie Briefs is a literary collection of intimate apparel news, trends, and opinions by lingerie insider ~ Ellen Lewis (and now others!) Since 2009 Ellen Lewis has been expressing her creative and personal impressions of the world of intimate apparel twice-weekly on Lingerie Briefs. She delivers poetically written reviews on domestic & international brands as well as up and coming designers and products. Her articles illustrate items newsworthy and recommended for the small to medium lingerie boutiques and chains. Ellen’s merchandising expertise and history in the Intimate Apparel market is the backbone of Lingerie Briefs. Lingerie Briefs has a topical pulse on the Intimate Apparel Industry reaching a specialized ‘niche’ of lingerie buyers and industry pros from around the globe as well as a loyal and rapidly growing consumer readership. WWW.LINGERIEBRIEFS.COM MAISON DE PAPILLON N GAL DKNY FLEUR’T VA BIEN Corsetry INTERVIEW « Diane von Furstenberg carries Yummie and it’s perfect for women trying on dresses who need some smoothing.” Heather Thomson, A Real Shapewear Star How has the brand Yummie become so successful so quickly in the expansive shapewear market, to the envy of many key players in the industry? We sat down with Yummie’s founder, Heather Thomson. BY FANÇOIS POMÈS S he may have been on Real Housewives of New York in 2012, a show whose cast members often become household names, but Heather Thomson is first and foremost a businesswoman. As a fashion designer with more than twenty years of experience, she has worked for numerous brands, such as Calvin Klein, before launching her own company, Yummie, in 2008. The brand Yummie by Heather Thomson was born out of Thomson’s desire for comfortable, invisible, effective shapewear undergarments, which she wasn’t finding on the market. Her first product, the Original Tank, which is still available, was the spark that first ignited the business. After its début, the tank got lucky: it was chosen by Oprah as one of her “favorite things”, which led countless customers to discover Yummie’s products -- and to never let them go! We spoke with Heather Thomson, rising shapewear star. 50 How important and dynamic is the shapewear market in the US and Canada? Shapewear is an important category in both the US and Canada, with much growth in the department store channels. Thanks to advances in technology, the market has also evolved. Innovations like Outlast® technology, lightweight garments with 360-degree elasticity, and breathability have been a large part of the Yummie business. What makes Yummie unique? Yummie is a collection of everyday form-flattering women’s essentials designed for comfort and confidence. I always say, “Forget everything you know about shapewear!” What are Yummie consumers like? Yummie is for all women of all ages and sizes who want to look and Créations Lingerie north america #6 - APRIL - JUNE 2014 INTERVIEW feel their best every day. The Yummie woman is bold, confident, sexy and strong and wants to rock what she’s got from the gym to the boardroom to happy hour. How different is Yummie shapewear compared to other shapewear brands? Research we conducted found that women want everyday comfort with smoothing properties and don’t want to feel scrunched or shoved into a sausage casing, as a result. A lot of shapewear in the past has been focused on special occasions. Yummie is about everyday shaping solutions to make you feel confident all the time, not just for a special moment. What are the more dynamic categories and markets for you? We just launched bras and active daywear panties in August! Our shapewear collection will continue to evolve and we’re excited to expand into other markets like intimates, hosiery and activewear. We strive to be a lifestyle brand that is synonymous with confidence and feeling your best every day. What are the bestsellers? Yummie launched as a top-down solution – intead of bottomup like some other brands – with our patented original 3-panel Yummie Tummie tank. The tank is ingrained in the DNA of the brand and is something women look for when they come to Yummie: a little hug around the midsection to smooth and slim! Yummie leggings shape throughout the waist, thighs, and leg and women can’t get enough of them. You can really wear them with a blazer to the office or to the gym with a tank. Leggings seemed like a natural progression for the brand since they are naturally a body-conscious product so we thought, why not throw some shaping technology into them? Can your products accommodate full-chested women? Yes! We are an inclusive brand, not exclusive. Yummie bras are hitting the floors this March and four out of six styles fit up to a DD cup. Where do your fabrics come from? Our fabrics come from many regions of Asia as well as Israel. The Créations Lingerie north america #6 - APRIL - JUNE 2014 fabrics are not specifically designed for Yummie, but we are certainly the front runners in the market with newness. How do you recruit and select your retailers? Our sales approach is multifaceted. We have a long standing relationship with retailers who have carried Yummie from the start. Many came to us after the priginal 3-panel Yummie Tummie tank was featured as one of “Oprah’s Favorite Things” and still do. Today we invite existing retailers to our showroom to view our newest collections each season or we visit their stores. In addition we attend trade shows domestically and internationally to educate stores on our brand. Each trade show draws a specific customer base, for example the trade show in Paris invites lingerie stores in Europe, and another show in New York brings ready-to-wear stores in the US. We choose the shows that align with our brand positioning and market to the attendees at those shows. How could you help retailers boost their sales with Yummie products? Yummie shapewear is an everyday accessory to your outfit; it should be as essential as your bras and panties and a complement to your overall look. Offering these types of pieces to the consumer allows retailers serve as a one stop shop and helps them sell their product. Diane von Furstenberg carries Yummie and it’s perfect for women trying on dresses who need some smoothing. Shapewear has become essential to everyday dress; not offering it can hinder sales and customer service. I can’t imagine walking into a department store or boutique and not having shaping garments as an option to layer underneath a dress I’m trying on - it’s essential! Do you think about shape/swimwear? All the time! Who knows what the future will bring… he rash guard done in high-tech, raw-cut microfiber with a sexy body-conscious fit and SPF50+ sun protection. We continue to refine the fit and the next generation of Commando swim will debut at the Miami Swim Show this summer. We’re planning to unveil some breakthrough technologies that we’re very excited about. n 51 FEATURE Plus-Size Lingerie is Becoming Fashionable Plus-size lingerie is graduating from a niche market to a prominent category. Brands are expanding their merchandise to include innovative fabrics, pretty lace, and colors. BY LESLIE VALMONT P lus-size is the new normal. According to Ibis World’s industry analysis of lingerie stores in America, the average woman’s bra size increased from 34B to 36C over the past two decades. This growth is driven by the increasing number of Americans who are considered overweight or obese. Caitlin Moldway, the author of the Ibis World Report, quotes the Journal of the American Medical Association. In 2008, 68% of Americans were overweight and that trend is expanding. The Journal expects 75% of female adults to be in this category by 2015. Consequently, this will make a quantitative impact on the demand for bras, which represent 48% of the lingerie business. “Sales of larger bra sizes such as DD, DDD and G cups have been gaining in popularity over the past 5 years,” observed Caitlin Moldway, and lingerie boutiques are adjusting. “They are expecting to tailor their product lines to include a wider array of styles and fits,” concluded the analyst. Erica Windle, the owner of A Sophisticated Pair in Burlington, North Carolina, is among the retailers trying to adjust to this trend, but fashionably. Elomi, from the Wacoal Eveden Group, is her best selling line. “Elomi nailed these plus-size customers,” she said. “The brand blends very supportive high-quality bras with a sense of carefree pleasure.” Erica Windle particularly appreciates “the adorable floral prints bra that has a certain little twist”. “The petals are diamond shaped which gives them contemporary look,” explained the Sophisticated Pair retailer. For the customer who doesn’t want to pay $66 for an Elomi bra, Erica Windle suggests Goddess as 52 “These days the plus-size customer enjoys more colors, and she look for bras to wear for any activity.” AFFINITAS Créations Lingerie north america #6 - APRIL - JUNE 2014 Créations Lingerie north america #6 - APRIL - JUNE 2014 53 an alternative, another Eveden brand that provides the Elomi fit at a lower price. The Sophisticated Pair recommendations are music to the ears of Mary Alice Kelly. As Head of Product Strategy at Wacoal Eveden she sees the “fun, fresh, super feminine” Elomi as being “our fastest growing brand on the global market”. And, the new proposals for Winter 2014 are all trying to maintain this youthful image, especially Amelia, the hot pink cerise underwired spacer molded bra with lace sides. “It is all about how we lift, shape and smooth to flatter your curves,” said Mary Alice Kelly. Useful details ANITA AFFINITAS LE MYSTÈRE Elomi and Goddess are not the only ones catering to the sophisticated plus-size consumer. Curvy Couture, Panache, Anita, Le Mystere, Parfait by Affinitas, and Wacoal are all working on lingerie solutions for the full-figured female. Dora Lau, President of Curvy Couture, boasts 20 years of experience with curvy girls. Her prior work with Lane Bryant and JC Penney private brands taught her how to design “seamless molding so that left and right breasts don’t spread apart”. “Typically, a woman’s apexes are 14 inches apart,” she says. “Our goal is to narrow that distance to 10 inches by shaping the mold.” The result? “We lift up the breasts and give her a natural, rounded cup in the shape of her bosom.” Dora Lau also talks about the foam of the T-shirt bra that is soft on the inside, harder on the outside “for natural projection”. She likes heat fuse double layer fabrics for the support. The bottom band as well as the straps are cushioned with a V-back design to prevent the straps from falling. Contour is the number-one selling of Wacoal and is built differently with a three-part cup in shades of black, nude, and cappuccino with an embroidered band. Contour starts with B cups and runs up to size J. The best sellers of Parfait by Affinitas also carry a three-piece cup with useful little details. The distance of the straps in the back is narrower and the hook is wider. The purple Carole option is available in size 30-40D, DD, E, F, FF, and G. Beautiful bras derive from their shape and their fabrics. Jessica Pfister, Vice President of Le Mystere explains the bonding technology that links together lace and microfiber or that laminates lace into a tricot lining. “This new technology gives the embroidery a very flat look,” she marvels. Dora Lau recommends three layers of fabric for support, smoothness, and external beauty. There is a final touch of embroidered lace on the third level. Eveden designers experiment with spacer foam, a soft, lightweight fabric that produces a molded shape without adding any size on top. Seductive colors Colors used to be limited, but not anymore. Le Mystere offers daring colors like indigo, plum, crushed berry, pale pink chiffon, Aqua mist, and Monaco blue. Goddess offers a mini-floral Créations Lingerie north america #6 - APRIL - JUNE 2014 ELOMI design in peony color. Elomi announces for winter 2014 a fiery red and hot passionate pink. Wacoal dabbles into coral for its basic seamless stretch bra. Of course, “We have to add va va voom!” jokes Dora Lau, the Curvy Couture founder. French lace, tuxedo bow, and little medallion are all welcome features. Dora Lau places a small keyhole on the front and “bling bling embroidery” on the strap. These days the plus-size customer enjoys more colors, and she will also look for bras to wear for any activity. She can run, swim, dance, and relax in her boudoir. Panache, for example, is strong in the sports category. For Fall 2014, the brand has a non-wire bra of up to H cup size, in purple, grey and pink. Eveden favors the swimming pool. Its Elomi line has a real cup size bra that can be worn with a brief or a tankini. Le Mystere, a subsidiary of Komar, will very soon offer a G-cup G cup for special occasions. The new bustier, featuring sheer tricot lining, soft foam pad, and silicon all over to keep it in place, will be available in either black or ivory. Most women want to have fun and an increasing number of brands try to comply. Parfait by Affinitas is replacing the classical bras with Baby dolls, camisoles and bustiers. The ivory or black babydoll with a tassel at the center is cut in stretch satin and mesh in the back. 40K cup sizes are available. The Celine model is a polka dot underwire camisole and the Tamara is more of a bustier with removable garters and straps. The purple Celine 40G may easily be worn as outerwear; the black Tamara can be, as well. “Tamara is made of nonstretch lace,” indicates Marcia Shally from Parfait by Affinitas. “It is definitely more seductive.” “Very sensual” is another term used by Erica Windle, the Sophisticated Pair retailer, in de- CORIN ELOMI scribing Jocelyn, her number-one fashion bra. The Elomi model, she explains, has a plunging design, with fuchsia stretch lace over the cup: just enough plunge and lace to reveal a little cleavage. n LE MYSTÈRE 55 ANITA CARE corsetry WINTER 2014/2015 COLLECTIONS EMPREINTE CLEAR LIGHT AGUA BENDITA TRIUMPH 56 ROSA FAIA Créations Lingerie north america #6 - APRIL - JUNE 2014 MIEL WACOAL JANE WOOLRICH LE MYSTERE JULIE FRANCE 57 Créations Lingerie north america #6 - APRIL - JUNE 2014 PARISA AFFINITAS corsetry WINTER 2014/2015 COLLECTIONS THE PURPLE PANTHER HUIT LE MYSTÈRE STELLA MCCARTNEY MILLESIA 58 Créations Lingerie north america #6 - APRIL - JUNE 2014 corsetry WINTER 2014/2015 COLLECTIONS RED SASSA EPRISE B.TEMP’D ANITA MATERNITY 60 LOU Créations Lingerie north america #6 - APRIL - JUNE 2014 corsetry WINTER 2014/2015 COLLECTIONS LISE CHARMEL RED MILLESIA COSABELLA LE MYSTÈRE PARFAIT 62 Créations Lingerie north america #6 - APRIL - JUNE 2014 PARFAIT LISE CHARMEL ANTIGEL CACHE CŒUR ANITA ACTIVE TRIUMPH SHADOWS Créations Lingerie north america #6 - APRIL - JUNE 2014 63 EPRISE corsetry WINTER 2014/2015 COLLECTIONS LOU ONLY HEARTS PARISA SHADOWS JEZEBEL 64 PLUTO Loungewear & Hosiery loungewear WINTER 2014/2015 COLLECTIONS DONNA REIS PAJAMA DRAMA JANE WOOLRICH CACHE COEUR 66 CALIDA Créations Lingerie north america #6 - APRIL - JUNE 2014 PLUTO ON THE MOON PLUTO ONLY HEARTS CHRISTINE LINGERIE HANRO CETTE hosiery WINTER 2014/2015 COLLECTIONS JANIE BRYANT WOLFORD JANIE BRYANT CETTE 68 A.CHÉ Beachwear beachwear WINTER 2014/2015 CRUISE COLLECTIONS PARISA MIRACLESUIT BLUE LAGOON ROSAFAIA LIMONADA KARLA COLLETTO 70 Créations Lingerie north america #6 - APRIL - JUNE 2014 beachwear WINTER 2014/2015 CRUISE COLLECTIONS STYLISH LISE CHARMEL AGUA BENDITA SHAN LISA RIEDT 71 Créations Lingerie north america #6 - APRIL - JUNE 2014 ANITA CARE beachwear WINTER 2014/2015 CRUISE COLLECTIONS LISA RIEDT ANTIGEL BRIGHT COLORS ANITA MATERNITY SILVIAN IMBERG MARYAN MEHLHORN 72 Créations Lingerie north america #6 - APRIL - JUNE 2014 Men’s Intimate apparel LEONISA FEATURE “Technical fabrics and performance specialized for the sport are important factors, but brand identity is just as influential.” PAPUA 74 Créations Lingerie north america #6 - APRIL - JUNE 2014 The Many Subcultures of the Men’s Swimwear Market From rooftop pools to paddling in the ocean, selling men’s swimwear is about more than just the design. BY RHEA CORTADO W hen it comes to men’s underwear, fit, fabric, and consistency is everything. Men are known to be diehard loyal to their underwear brands and buy multiples of the same style once they find their favorite. Men’s swimwear buying habits, however, more closely resemble how they buy fashion basics, like T-shirts or jeans. Tried and true brands are at the top of the go-to list, but men can still be lured into shops by an exciting color, a never-before-seen print, an updated length, or an aspirational lifestyle message. “Swimsuits are not run-of-the-mill anymore,” said Nathan Romano, director of sales for New York-based luxury swimwear brand Onia swimwear. “We all want fabrics that perform and have purpose.” From the young urban professional who wears stylish trunks to rooftop hotel pool parties to the athletic waterman who sails and surfs, the best men’s swim brands design for the culture of the customer, too. The sophisticated shopper “I saw a void in the market for cool, modern, resort lifestyle apparel,” said founder of Surfside Supply Company Chris Manley. The New York-based brand found a niche in the contemporary men’s market to dress the stylish city guy that is up to date on the latest hot restaurants and shops, but doesn’t take his wardrobe that seriously. Manley grew up spending summers at the beach and his brand extends the feeling of vacation wear all year long, even in urban daily life. Surfside Supply Company apparel silhouettes and fabrics are very laid back — think French terry, cotton knits, and chambrays — and the brand’s surf trunks follow suit by combining the “island beach lifestyle… with a slight urban twist”. Basic trunks that hit at mid-thigh in quick-drying, rigid nylon are among its top sellers, and Créations Lingerie north america #6 - APRIL - JUNE 2014 75 BEACHRAYS Manly says stretch fabrics are starting to gain traction. “We see the growth coming from updated traditional stores and cool specialty stores,” Manley said. Surfside Supply Company is currently sold in Nordstrom, Saks Fifth Avenue, Bloomingdales, Neiman Marcus, and several higher-end specialty stores. “We can be the bridge from the premium denim department to the modern sportswear guy. We believe we can define a new space in the market,” Manley said. Surfside Supply Company’s strategy is a common scenario of up-and-coming brands. Every year customers spend more and more shopping online, which turns brand names and specific style names into search terms for customers that want to see the best selection and best price. Curated specialty stores are the place of discovery and a space where younger brands can thrive given the personalized experience. Onia gets its luxury swim trunks in front of customers during the most opportune time to desire a new pair — while they are on vacation. In addition to being sold in luxury department stores and boutiques, Onia can be found at many hotels and resorts worldwide including David Jones in Australia, The Four Seasons in Maui, The Viceroy in Anguilla, and the Burj al Arab in Dubai. Onia’s retail prices range from $120 to $195, and its lower-priced Trunks Surf & Swim line that caters to a surf customer range in retail price from $48 to $54. “Onia is catered toward the jet setter. He buys everything 76 SHAN based on quality over quantity and appreciates details, refinement and classic looks,” Romano said. Based on a tailored fit, and the primary inseam length hovering around 7 1/2” and 8 3/8” Onia experiments with cotton and nylon blends, nylon blends, yarn/dyed cotton nylon stripes, and custom prints on 100% nylon. “People are responding well to fresh fabrications,” Romano said. Veteran swimwear brand Shan has consistently built its customer loyalty and reputation on its timeless look and quality materials. “The consumer seeking Shan’s swimwear and ready-to-wear loves its classic shapes, colors and patterns. Shan allows men to follow trend and be stylish, yet remaining chic at all times,” said Anne-Marie Montgrain, sales and customer service coordinator for Shan. Quebec-based Shan is sold in its own retail stores in Laval, Montreal, Toronto, Brossard, and Saint-Sauveur in Canada, and Miami, Florida. Retail prices range from $130 to $200. Since silhouettes remain classic, Shan infuses new excitement in bright solid colors in red and orange, and the traditional navy and black. “Over the years, we’ve noticed that men seeking a classic look are now daring to pick bright colors and bold prints. They are also more open to playing with different lengths and textures in materials,” Montgrain said. In response, Shan offers a variety of fabric blends including spandex, ONIA high-end cotton fibers and express-dry polyester to address the demand for trunks to dry Créations Lingerie north america #6 - APRIL - JUNE 2014 ADIDAS quickly. “The buying experience is based on feelings. Men will often shop to respond to a specific need but ultimately, if the product speaks to the consumer, it will sell,” continued Montgrain. “Men look for comfort, look and versatility.” The active lifestyle For the active lifestyle practitioner — be it sailing on a boat, surfing, or stand-up paddle boarding in the ocean, or wakeboarding and swimming in a lake — technical fabrics and performance specialized for the sport are important factors, but brand identity is just as influential. Take the original boat shoe brand, Sperry Top-Sider. Manhattan Beachwear stretches the iconic footwear’s preppy look into a head-to-toe outfit for the same coastal enthusiast. “Sperry Top-Sider swimwear resonates best when we interpret the brand DNA correctly and use details that tie back to the original boat shoe: nautical details, grommets, and roping,” said Howie Greller, VP of design and merchandising for Manhattan Beachwear, which holds the license for Sperry Top-Sider men’s and women’s watersports apparel. While the fashion-conscious customer dabbles in shorter inseam lengths, the active customer prefers the traditional outseams ranging from 17” up to 21” with the average hovering around 19” outseam. Four-way stretch and lightweight fabrication are musts for the average 25-year-old Sperry Top-Sider customer. Price points are just under $60 retail. In the case of global athletic brand Adidas, Manhattan Beachwear adapts its design to ensure Adidas swimwear flows easily into the sporting goods store environment. Basketball and gym short lengths are much longer in the 21” to 24” outseam range and “techno” graphics are key. “Elastic waist shorts with a basketball influence, the classic three-stripe styling, and comfortable fit are three key elements in each collection,” Greller said of Adidas swimwear, which Manhattan Beachwear holds the license for in Créations Lingerie north america #6 - APRIL - JUNE 2014 SURFSIDE SUPPLY COMPANY SPERRY men’s and women’s swimwear. Surf brands have perfected the art of four-way stretch, fast-drying and lightweight fabric, and invisible seams that combat board short rash. Look no further than Hurley’s revolutionary Phantom board short empire that has the most skilled surfers and weekend riders returning season after season. Each of the top surf companies has their own version of the performance short. Quiksilver has the fourway stretch diamond dobby fabric. Billabong has the Platinum X Quad Stretch, H2 Repel and Recycler ZG fabric made from recycled polyester. Rip Curl’s ultimate Mirage board short made with Quadroflex stretch has one-piece construction that eliminates irritating seam rub on the skin. Given that larger brands have the technical board short market cornered, new brands chose to compete in niche fashion, with unique prints, and by offering an alternative leisure lifestyle. The seasoned swim industry manufacturers behind J.Y. Rays Inc. — known for its Beach Rays line that is sold at Kohl’s — launched its new surf brand Vast in 2012. The brand fits between the two worlds of mainstream surf brands and ultra-niche fashion brands. Vast covers the bases by offering board shorts in recycled four-way stretch fabric, a bamboo/carbon four-way stretch with antibacterial properties and a cocotex fabric made from coconut fibers. “I wanted to create a print story that was different and that stood apart from any existing surf lines,” said Vast’s Head Designer, Hugo Quintana. The original artwork is inspired by “particles, wire frame mappings, RGB imaging and digital geometrics”. True to surf lifestyle brands of all sizes, Vast will be going on a surf trip to document its newest collection for 2015 and hopefully lure more converts to their side. “We are preparing for a trip to Hawaii to do our annual camping trip,” said Terrence Campbell, director of sales for J.Y. Rays Inc. “We see the potential for Vast to give new life to the sport of surfing as well as refresh its current population.” n 77 men’s underwear WINTER 2014/2015 COLLECTIONS HANRO EQUMEN SHAN GARÇON MODEL 78 LEONISA GREGG CALIDA CALIDA SHAN KEN WROY Créations Lingerie north america #6 - APRIL - JUNE 2014 79 fairs MAY 2014 n 9-11 SHENZHEN FAIR Shenzhen www.siuf.com JULY 2014 n 5-7 MODE CITY Paris www.lingerie-swimwear-paris.com n 5-7 INTERFILIÈRE Paris www.interfiliere.com n 19-22 MIAMI SWIMSHOW Miami www.swimshow.com n 20-22 LONDON SWIMWEAR SHOW Londres www.londonswimwearshow.com n 22-23 PREMIÈRE VISION PREVIEW New York www.premierevision-newyork.com AUGUST 2014 n 3-5 CURVENY New York www.curvexpo.com n 18-19 CURVENV Las Vegas www.curvexpo.com Curve NV Mixes and Matches Classic and Emerging Brands The reenergized lingerie show, mixing classic brands like Wacoal, Eveden, and Carole Hochman with newer merchandise, attracted 2,000 visitors from neighboring states. C urve NV in Las Vegas is a small, intimate trade show, focused on specific buyers from California, Nevada, Arizona, Texas, and Canada. In a nutshell, that’s how Pierre Nicolas Hurstel, CEO of Curvexpo, sees the event, held over two days, February 17 and 18, at the Venetian Hotel. This year, Curve NV, subsidiary of the French Eurovet Group, and its 100 exhibitors hosted 2,000 buyers. The reenergized show, “does the job”, proclaimed Pierre Nicolas Hurstel, because “brand representatives see their loyal followers as well as new visitors who tend to order right away on the floor.” This year, 300 non pre-registered visitors, creators of new boutiques or e-stores, showed up at Curve NV: people like Kim Johnson, co-founder of Dplus Club, an internet startup, selling plus-size bras online. Buyers may also spill over from other shows on the same floor. Twenty percent of the lingerie visitors come from Capsule, Agenda, and Liberty, the neighboring apparel shows. If needed, the Pierre Nicolas Hurstel team is ready to play the role of personal shopper for their demanding buyers. Curve NV mixes 82 BY FRANÇOIS POMÈS / PHOTOS BY C. ROUSSEL and matches classic solid brands and emerging products. Terresa Zimmerman, Southern Californian creator of Wood underwear for men, offers cotton modal elastane to the “everyday guy”. Her collegiate colors have inspired undies at $20 apiece, promising “sexy styles but not sex” and “provocative lingerie but not too much of it”. Jaymi Washburn, designer of Love Haus, also has the “edgy, young” consumer in mind, but targets those of the female persuasion. Love Haus combines a European esthetic with US prices, and it is all about features like bustiers, plunging necklines, bralettes, demi-cut bras, and micro thongs. Jaymi Washburn tries to differentiate her brand by mixing neon colors and nude or chevron prints in nude and grey. A few exhibitors away stood Denis Tugdual, Sales Vice President of Oh la la! Cheri. The brand, created by a Frenchman in Miami, is launching a plus-size segment for women who are seeking “sexy, and a little naughty” lingerie. “65% of the American market is plus-size,” explained Tugdual, brandishing a black and red baby doll piece. The exhibitor is Créations Lingerie north america #6 - APRIL - JUNE 2014 tapping into this big trend. “I need Plus sizes,” said Linda Romps, the owner of the store UP Bras That Fit, in Escanaba, Michigan. “We are corn fed,” she joked, “so we need bigger band sizes.” She continued, “We want pretty F cup for full figures at low prices. My competition is WalMart so I have to adjust my pricing strategy. At $30 a bra, my customer might just have a stroke.” Linda Romps is a regular at Wacoal’s and Eveden’s booths, and this time, to change it up, Oh la la! Cheri. Luxury aficionados will be drawn to Vannina Vesperini and Maison de Papillon, the silk experts. Celine Cabanac, CEO advisor of the French firm Vannina Vesperini, is plotting the return of its brand on the American market with arty silk and lace camisoles at $165 each. “This time, you can reorder quickly and still have quality service,” assured Cabanac. Not far away, Danielle Salinas, the designer of Maison de Papillon presented her 24/7 collection. A cashmere and silk collection that women can wear “from the bedroom to the boardroom.” Indoors and out. n Créations Lingerie north america #6 - APRIL - JUNE 2014 83 FAIRS CurveNY: No Increase in Visitors in February 2014 A fter an exceptional showing in February 2013, with a 16% rise in the number of visitors, CurveNY attendance is leveling off. Despite this minor slowdown, American stores confirmed their interest in CurveNY, whose most recent event logged 2,700 buyers. “This show still allowed us to find out about new retailers and to strengthen our network in North America,” Olivier Piquet, General Director of Lise Charmel, was pleased to say. Other French groups that attended, like Millesia and Luli, didn’t find visitor numbers at their stand to be overwhelming, but did make some very good contacts. While swimwear and menswear may not have had a sizeable presence this year, there was a strong representation of loungewear brands, like PJ Salvage, Pluto, Laurence Tavernier, and Bedhead Pajamas, and good visibility for maternity lines, with Anita Maternity, Cake Lingerie, and a new arrival, Cache Coeur. Among notable seminars, Ali Cudby, CEO of Fab Foundations, offered 7 steps to boost your lingerie business. The next CurveNY will take place next August 3-5 at the Javits Center in New York. n FP / PHOTOS BY-S. KOSSMANN 84 Créations Lingerie north america #6 - APRIL - JUNE 2014 The Miami Swim Show Adds 400,000 Square Feet to its Already-Enormous Event! A leader in the swimwear market, the Miami Swim Show must face aggressive competition in its own sector, which it has been building for over 30 years. Its solution: keep growing. BY FRANÇOIS POMÈS “W ithout a doubt, the Miami Swim Show is the place to be for swimwear,” an exhibitor told us on the first day of this swimsuit high holiday, which held its 31st annual event in July 2013. With an additional 400,000 square feet, isn’t there even more risk of drowning in what was already an abundant selection? “It will take more time to plan our visit and to be practical,” a buyer admitted. Indeed, with almost 500 exhibitors, the Miami Swim Show is a mecca for swimwear and accessories, albeit a bit long (four days), but it can be incredibly efficient for a retailer that already knows what he or she is looking for. For brands, business here is also worthwhile, as long as their booths offer an attractive layout; and unlike at Curve events, at the Miami Swim Show it is possible for Créations Lingerie north america #6 - APRIL - JUNE 2014 power players to set up enormous booths, with built-in catwalks and offices! “The show is always a starting point for the new swim season,” said Carlos Cortes of Malibu Design Group in 2013. “Our booth has always been busy, and we signed several new clients thanks to the launch of the Betsey Johnson swim line. We were happy to see the show’s expansion, with so many new brands, because competition makes the season more exciting!” Always a source of new trends, the show, programmed in coordination with the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Swim, hosts a wide selection of South American brands, from the most established, like Agua Bendita and Luli Fama, to the lesser known, like Crasqi. The 32nd annual Miami Swim Show will take place July 19-22, 2014 at the Miami Convention Center. n 85 3 QUESTIONS TO MELISSA ODABASH, DESIGNER OF THE YEAR FAIRS What do you think a perfect swimsuit should be? Why? How do you translate it into your collections? Melissa Odabash : The perfect swimsuit should accentuate your strongest assets and hide the areas you’re least strongest. When I am designing I try to keep various body shapes in mind– pear/apple/curvy etc – this is so important because everyone is different and at least I can try and offer something that can suit everyone.grand nombre. Your collections do include quite an important part of beachwear items.Why? M. O. : My label has turned into a lifestyle brand so I have to design for a full summer wardrobe that can take you from the beach to ‘après plage’. Beachwear is the best complement to swimwear so it made sense to offer this to my clients along with accessories. What makes your whole offer different than the other brands of the market? M. O. : This isn’t something that happens overnight – it takes years of getting the right fit, the right fabric, the right construction. I have a very loyal following because they know they will get confidence from my designs when you are at your most vulnerable. I have been lucky enough to have always had a big celebrity following, I think it is because they feel secure when on the beach in the public eye. A Taste of Parisian Shows in July Mode City and Interfilière will open their doors on the 5-7th of July this year. What are the main lines and themes that will be addressed there? An overview. BY VALÉRIE CHARIER MODE CITY REPEATS “ABSOLUTE SUMMER” The forum, an unmissable meeting where fashion lines will be decrypted, works like a shop, taking the lead from the last SIL. But this time, there will be two shops to correspond to the real size of multibrands. These will join up to offer swimwear and lingerie. The aim: to be “trendier” than last January, but also to give clear directions for presentation and packing including gift ideas. Outside the hall, “Absolute Summer” - 86 launched last year to welcome the general public and “educate” - is gaining momentum, with a number of competitions organised in collaboration with women’s magazines (confirmed so far: Madame Figaro, Elle and Femme Actuelle) to win tickets. INTERFILIÈRE PICKS APART FIBRES Fibre was and still remains a great source of many technical innovations in lingerie. The show pays homage to it and also plans to host a themed conference which will take a look at the material with a playful workshop - a kind of mini laboratory which will allow guests to better understand fibres, choose them and interact with them. Another novelty: the forum dedicated to swimwear has moved, nestling itself in the heart of the “neoskin” area beside fabric and mesh, leading suppliers of swimwear products. It spreads out over 200 m2 and aims to be “a place of life, living and surprising,” says Laurence Nérée, the show’s commissioner. n Créations Lingerie north america #6 - APRIL - JUNE 2014 SHANGAI SHOWS: 10TH ANNIVERSARY Interfilière Shanghai and Shanghai Mode Lingerie Celebrate 10 Years With an In-depth Study of The Major Asian Markets BY FRANÇOIS POMÈS C elebrating their 10th anniversary, Interfilière Shanghai & Shanghai Mode Lingerie, are back on October 20-21, 2014 at the Shanghai Exhibition Center with a complete offer of intimates and swimwear. For the 2014 anniversary edition, Eurovet is doing an in-depth study of the major Asian markets including China, Hong Kong, Taiwan, Japan, Korea, India, Sri Lanka, Bangladesh, Vietnam, Pakistan, Indonesia and Thailand. Herewith panel discussions will be held in six cities and capitals; Shanghai, Beijing, Chengdu, Seoul, Tokyo and Taipei. The first results will be released during Interfilière Paris and Mode City Paris on 5-7 July, 2014 before the grand unveiling on October 20-21 at Interfilière Shanghai and Shanghai Mode Lingerie during some expert conferences and round table discussions. Alongside the research, the shows will be celebrated with festive networking events where exhibitors and visitors that have been part of this success will be thanked for their continuous support. After ten years, a tribute will be paid to the companies that have grown with the shows. Several special events will take place at different locations during the two days bringing everyone a sense of happiness, friendship and surprise. Building on the swimwear and beachwear focus and demand of the trade visitors, Interfilière Shanghai will hold for the first time, two trend forums. One will be focused solely on intimates and loungewear whilst the other forum will have a swimwear and beachwear focus. The trends for Spring/Summer 2015-16 will be exquisitely presented across those two exceptional happenings. With the growth of the show on an international level, Interfilière Shanghai will host a German pavilion which will also be covering Shanghai Mode Lingerie brands. Succeeding the achievement of the last edition, Shanghai Mode Lingerie is moving back into the Central Hall where it can welcome more local and international brands. This will give the local and already well-represented international brands in China and Asia the chance to have a larger and more decorated booth in order to gain more brand recognition from among the top agents, distributors and department stores visiting the show. n Créations Lingerie north america #6 - APRIL - JUNE 2014 87 ENCAJES LLER. MUEHLMEIER SOLSTISS LINA JERSEY LOMEL fabrics HÄNDEL + DI FABRICS NEWS BY VALÉRIE CHARIER PENN TEXTILE SOLUTIONS IMPROVES THEIR FLORAL LACE SHAPEWEAR RANGE The company already offers a large range of shaping fabrics, of differing strength and support, (from 100 to 165g/m2, for light to heavy support). They now present their new «Powerlace» line of floral and graphic patterns on lace and bands. Soft to the touch, these lace fabrics have a real toning effect, recognised by their Lycra® Beauty certification. LIEBAERT DEVELOP THEIR PRINTING CAPACITY The Belgian manufacturer, which has been offering digital printing for six years, has invested 1.5 million Euros in a new pigment printing line. The first collection of prints made in such a way was unveiled in January. Liebaert also provided a new sampling table “so as to be responsive and comply with market demands”. (see photo opposite). HÄNDEL + DILLER EXTEND THEIR RANGE The German manufacturer complete their range of unique combinations, taking advantage of natural fibres (cotton or linen with Tencel®, MicroModal® with silk, wool or even SeaCell™, etc.), and sometimes technical qualities (Coolmax® polyester for a moisture wicking fabric, or Thermocool® which helps to regulate the temperature). 90 EUROJERSEY’S NEW ECOLOGICAL CAMPAIGN The Italian industrialist, involved in the eco-friendly production process since 2008, strongly reinforce their commitment through a new campaign. They show us that as well as respecting the environment, they also work passionately with their fabrics. Divided into two visuals, this campaign was launched digitally in February and will be transmitted throughout 2014. Créations Lingerie north america #6 - APRIL - JUNE 2014 EUROPEAN SOURCING JABOULEY JUNIOR HAGEN CARVICO KARL FLEISCHMANN SERAM ROCLE BY ISABELLA RICAMIFICIO PAOLO CHANTY WEBER LACE VIOLET 91 EUROPEAN SOURCING PIAVE MAITEX GOLD KARL FLEISCHMANN LIEBAERT CODENTEL 92 EUROPEAN SOURCING SOLSTISS JUNIOR HAGEN PENN TEXTILE WEBER LACE BISCHOFF 93 EUROPEAN SOURCING BISCHOFF KARL FLEISCHMANN PASTEL PENN TEXTILE ROCLE BY ISABELLA SOPHIE HALLETTE 94 INPLET WEBER LACE EUROPEAN SOURCING PIAVE MAITEX RICAMIFICIO PAOLO LIEBAERT MUEHLMEIER SERAM FIT Créations Lingerie north america #6 - APRIL - JUNE 2014 95