9 772335 672009 FOR GENtLEMEN ON A jOURNEy
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9 772335 672009 FOR GENtLEMEN ON A jOURNEy
F or gen t lemen on a j ourne y BRUCE MCLAREN j erem y h ac k e t t PERSONAL SUBMARINES CREED FRAGRANCES VERTU OMEGA S KY F A L L A S T O N M A R T I N D B 5 ISSN 2335-6723 TH E W O R L D ’ S O L D E S T L A N D R O V E R MCLAREN F1 RANGE ROVER $15.00 500.00 EDUCATION IS THE FOUNDATION FOR A BETTER FUTURE. Visit www.montblanc.com/signatureforgood to learn about our Signature for Good initiative and to build a better future - brick by brick. With the Signature for Good Collection, Montblanc supports UNICEF’s education projects in Asia, Africa, and Latin America. Part of the proceeds of this collection will be donated to UNICEF projects to build and run schools in these regions and UNICEF DOES NOT ENDORSE ANY BRAND OR PRODUCT. NO PORTION OF THE PURCHASE PRICE IS TAX-DEDUCTIBLE. help children pave their way to a successful, self-determined, and happy life. visit montblanc.com R ALPH LAUREN Home Elegance is an attitude Longines Boutiques Marina Square, #02-132. Tel: 6336 9495 The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands, #B1-18. Tel: 6634 9893 The Longines Saint-Imier Collection www.longines.com Simon Baker NEW: LEICA M Everything you need to capture the decisive moment. The Leica M is available in black enamel or silver chrome finish. The new Leica M features a newly designed full-format sensor with revolutionary architecture – for creating images with extraordinary sharpness and unrivaled detail. Live-View, video capability, and new focusing methods make the new M the most advanced and adept M of all time. Discover the most advanced M of all time at www.m.leica-camera.com www.leica-camera.com EDITOR’S LETTER M uch the same as a rock group having to follow an astonishing debut album with a second that exhibits the same brilliance that got everyone excited in the first place, putting together an issue of Road Book that beats the first one takes some doing. After such tremendously positive feedback from all corners, how were we ever going to top that? The answer lies within these very pages. To be fair, it’s hardly a challenge to bring you the very best that exists in the world of luxury, as there’s no shortage of material to whet the appetites of even those who believe they have seen and done it all. But we strive to open the doors on hard-to-comeby opportunities, like taking James Bond’s Aston Martin DB5 to Scotland or getting behind the wheel of what many still consider to be the greatest supercar that ever was: the stunning McLaren F1. Richard Meaden’s expertly written and utterly engaging feature on this most valuable machine is a must-read. But we’re not simply obsessed with incredible automobiles. If the ocean is your playground, you’ll no doubt be fascinated to read James McCarthy’s insight into the world of personal submarines. Possibly the ultimate boys’ toys, these fascinating machines turn the sea into a different sort of playground altogether and many owners of the world’s most luxurious yachts are getting in on the act, discovering for themselves a new take on maritime adventures. Luxury doesn’t have to cost tens of millions of dollars, though, and the French perfume house of Creed proves that beyond doubt. With a rich history in providing the most discerning clients with the finest products, it is the envy of an industry that is in danger of going too far by saturating the market with a bewildering and often bland array of throwaway scents. Creed marks you out as an individual and we have been talking with the man who will take that family business into a new age, while maintaining the core attributes that made it such a success in the first place. So, with such a brilliant and wide variety of contents, we’re left with just one problem: how on earth will we top this? You’ll have to get your hands on the next issue of Road Book to find out. Kevin Hackett, Editor-in-Chief. CONTENTS 25 Road test: Masarati Quattroporte One of the world’s most elegant saloon cars has been replaced by a new model that looks less distinctive but excels in every other respect. 29 Road test: Lamborghini Aventador Roadster How could the outrageous Aventador possibly be improved upon? Bizarrely, by removing its roof. Just remember to pack (extremely) lightly. 33 Road test: Porsche Caymen It always was a great driving machine but the all-new Cayman S has just leveled the playing field, setting a new standard for all sports cars to follow. 36 Gentlemen on a Journey We talk with Jeremy Hackett, founder of one of the most respected names in men’s fashion, about style, success, beating football hooligans and tracking down his birth parents. 46 Cuban Missiles Practically any luxury item is subject to counterfeiting, but fake Cuban cigars are some of the most difficult to spot. Richard Whitehead sorts the fine leaves from the bananas. CONTENTS 54 Eurocopter EC145 Mercedes-Benz Style When one of the world’s foremost helicopter companies wanted to produce a luxury vehicle for business users, it turned to Mercedes-Benz and the result was an S-Class for the skies. 61 McLaren: From Man to Team The Formula One racing team is a household name and the automotive company is making huge strides, too. But the story began with a remarkably talented New Zealander called Bruce. 70 The Lord of the Land It could rightly claim to be the most important car ever produced and we take the world’s oldest Land Rover back to the place where it was conceived. Say hello to Huey. 80 Double 0 Heaven We’ll let the stunning photography of Matt Howell speak for itself, while the story of how James Bond came to be driving this very Aston Martin DB5, on these very roads, unfolds. CONTENTS 92 Downwardly Mobile If you think you’ve seen and done it all, or that there’s nothing left on the wish list, then perhaps it’s time you explored the oceans’ depths in your very own personal submarine. 100 Empire of the Senses Creed has been an artisan of fragrance since 1760, and it remains a family business to this day. We catch up with Erwin Creed, the company’s next guardian, to talk past, present and future. 104 The Mighty McLaren F1 For years it reigned as the world’s fastest production car and the ultra-rare F1 is still, after two decades, viewed by many as the greatest supercar of all. 114 Class Asset There are those that think it’s safer to put your savings under the mattress than in a bank these days but, if you know what classic cars to buy (and when), they can yield a healthy return from a low risk investment. 1st Prize in the Classic Category CONTENTS 124 High Road to Morocco If you’re going to take part in an epic road trip across continents and five-star hotels are thin on the ground, the new Range Rover and an iconic Airstream trailer make the perfect pairing. 136 Vertu The company that invented the luxury mobile phone has, for some time now, been lambasted for not keeping up with technology. But that’s all set to change with the new TI smartphone handset – a phone with benefits. 142 Spy Watch Product placement in cinema is nothing new but there are some things we don’t mind seeing on the big screen. Like the Omega watches that keep the world’s least discreet secret agent on time these days. 146 Tissot Le LocLe AutomAtic chronometer Classic watch with an automatic COSC certified movement, 316L stainless steel case, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and water resistance up to 3 bar (30 m / 100 ft). IN TOUCH WITH YOUR TIME Get in touch at www.tissot.ch TISSOT BOUTIQUES Marina Square Shopping Centre, Tel: 6336 9757 – Raffles City Shopping Centre, Tel: 6338 2829 The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands, Tel: 6688 7348 – Wisma Atria, Tel: 6836 9659 Customer Service Centre Wheelock Place, #04-05/05A Tel: 6275 6388 The Limited Lange The world’s finest wristwatches are all handmade in Switzerland, right? A. Lange and Söhne would beg to differ and the German company’s Tourbillon Pour le Merite is one of the world’s most collectable. 154 The Height of Fashion It started the trend for (literally) designer hotels and is incredibly popular with visitors from Southeast Asia. But does the Armani Hotel in Dubai still have what it takes to be one of the world’s best? Nick Leech investigates. CONTRIBUTORS Road Book is published by Singapore Indicium (Singapore) Pte Ltd Level 30, 6 Battery Road Singapore 049909 [email protected] Dejan Jovanovic Born in Serbia and raised in South Africa, Dejan’s rather varied upbringing has given him a special outlook on life. His is a demeanour of positivity and towering enthusiasm, especially when it comes to the high-octane world of motorsport. He has, over the years, become a walking encyclopedia on the subject and, for this issue of Road Book, he throws the spotlight on Bruce McLaren. François Oosthuizen Based in Bangkok, this perfect gentleman is guardian of another Indicium title – the gorgeous Sur La Terre – and is waging a war on mediocrity everywhere. A man of refined and exclusive tastes, François has the rare ability of being able to turn a hobby or interest into readable and entertaining prose. You can enjoy his take on the house of Creed in this issue. Richard Meaden It’s rare for a talented journalist to be an expert race driver (and vice versa) but Richard ‘Dickie’ Meaden is definitely both, as well as being one of the nicest guys in either business. And it’s this breadth of abilities that puts owners of the world’s most valuable cars at ease – cars like the McLaren F1, which he drives and describes for us in glorious detail. PATH-StRegisAd-RoadBookSingaporeThailand-Mar-Apr13.indd 1 2/28/13 5:20 PM Max Earey Beginning his career in photography atop a surfboard in the 1990s, Max has steadily built up an impressive portfolio of work that encompasses sport, nature, architecture and some of the most incredible cars of all time – a job that causes him to exist out of a suitcase most weeks. But he’s still smiling. For Road Book, he superbly captured the world’s oldest Land Rover on location in North Wales. James McCarthy James McCarthy has been writing about all things luxury for more than 15 years. Truly a larger than life character, his enthusiasm for supercars, jets, boats and facial topiary seemingly knows no bounds. But, for this issue, we tasked him with heading beneath the waves to explore the exciting world of personal submarines. Simon de Burton Self-effacing, hard working and always smiling, Simon is inextricably linked with the world of luxury. Having previously worked for Sotheby’s, his extraordinary insight when it comes to timepieces, antiques, automobiles and motorcycles is unsurpassed as a journalist, and it is an honour to have him on board for Road Book. Richard Whitehead Over the years, he has edited and contributed to a number of international car titles and visited a wealth of iconic automotive locations, from Sant’Agata Bolognese and Suzuka, to Stuttgart and Sunderland. He also happens to be the former editor of a cigar connoisseurs’ magazine – something we’ve been able to turn to our advantage in this issue. Nick Leech Nick Leech is a writer who can turn his hand to just about anything: travel, architecture, conservation, and heritage. But not cars. Despite being 40 years of age, Nick still cannot drive and now lives in Abu Dhabi, where his unashamed pedestrianism (amongst other things) makes him something of an oddity. Matt Howell Photographer Matt Howell started his career over 20 years ago and spends much of his time travelling the world shooting commercial work for many luxury brands, but admits what he loves most is photographing rare and beautiful classic cars. We’ve been keeping him busy and, for Road Book 02, he shot the Skyfall DB5, McLaren F1 and the Range Rover/Airstream combo. R OA D T E S T M a s e r at i Q u at t r o p o r t e Writ t en by J ef f R eed T T H E S H O P P E S AT M A R I N A B AY S A N D S T E L E P H O N E : +65 6634 1253 B1 73/74 GALLERIA LEVEL E - M A I L : [email protected] SINGAPORE 018972 W E B S I T E : WWW.UOMOGROUP.COM here aren’t many more picturesque places to drive than on the twisty mountain blacktop surrounding the Côte d’Azur. And, as if my exotic surroundings are not pretty enough, I have just been handed the keys to the very attractive and all-new Maserati Quattroporte. If you think it can’t get any better than this, it can and it does – and at the mere depression of a button – as the silence and tranquility of the countryside is rent asunder by the thunderous exhaust note emanating from the chrome quad tips of this new Italian. Under the shapely bonnet lies a new, 3.8-litre twin turbo V8 and it has been tuned to a whopping 530hp and, a bordering on the ludicrous, 710Nm of torque. A dab of the accelerator sends the rear 20-inch wheels spinning into a frenzy. The 285/35 Continental tyres, though extremely grippy, don’t stand a chance if you’re possessed of a heavy right foot. Thick white smoke fills the air and the tyres are screaming for mercy. I’m in no mood to relent, however, and while I probably ought to feel a twinge of guilt for such resourcedepleting behaviour, I’m having way too much fun to worry about trivial matters such as the environment. Get over it, Earth. I make my way up the mountain pass and this sixth-generation model, which has arrived 50 years after the original, is rumbling along in stunning fashion. With 200Nm more twist than even the current Quattroporte Sport GTS, it wills me to keep my foot buried in the plush carpet and I duly oblige. The engine sings at full cry and I almost touch its 307kph top speed on a long and empty straight. Conditions are perfect to give this road rocket a proper seeing to, and I’ve ditched my usual mild manners behind the wheel for a far more aggressive approach. It’s getting me so much more out of this car and, when a tunnel homes into view, it’s the ideal opportunity to power 25 down the windows, reengage Sport mode and get another hit of that raucous exhaust note. It’s a beautiful yet malevolent sound that fills me with a mixture of fear and delight. The Maserati delivers a mighty thump of power; the speedometer flings itself from 100kph to 200kph in the blink of an eye and it’s still climbing. The power is addictive but far more enjoyable is the way this car sounds. The roar, created by pneumatic valves in the tubing in each bank, reverberates off the tunnel walls and shakes me to the bone. This is aural pleasure at its very finest. But driving this car hard can be a tricky affair. It takes a little while to get used to the size of it, as the Quattroporte has significantly grown. It is now 150mm longer than before, with a total length of 5,262mm. Throw in a large, sloping bonnet, which makes telling where it ends almost impossible, and finding your bearings in the new top Maserati takes some doing. And these mountain roads can become very narrow, which makes rapid driving all the more daunting, especially as the car’s width has also swelled to 1,948mm. The wheelbase, too, has been stretched by 97mm and it just adds to the pressure. – it’s proving to be a rather large car for these narrow European highways. I pass a sign warning me of falling rocks and the last thing I want is to be responsible for a pebbledash-like finish on this car’s svelte exterior so, as the road finally opens up, I pull over to give the handcrafted interior a proper appraisal. It’s obvious that there is far more room on offer here than in the outgoing model, and it is far better looking, too. The fascia is dominated by classy, veneered wood trim, while almost all of the controls have been buried inside the huge 8.4-inch touchscreen infotainment system. This means there are less buttons and switchgear on the dash and centre console, which gives the cabin a very clean and clutter-free look. Though rear seat legroom has grown by an impressive 101.6mm and the 15-speaker, 1,280 watts Bowers and Wilkins audio system sounds wonderful, I’m surprised that the new car lacks many of the latest driver-assistance software. For instance, it doesn’t have a blind spot warning system, lane departure system or even adaptive cruise control. However, I don’t dwell on this for too long – a prod of the throttle to reawaken the engine makes sure of that. Assembled by Ferrari at Maranello, the direct-injected 3.8-litre, 90-degree V8 is fitted with a pair of low-inertia, twin-scroll parallel turbochargers, making it way more powerful than the old 4.7-litre V8, as well as 20 per cent more fuel efficient. It’s been married to a new ZF eight-speed automatic transmission (with paddle shifters on the fat steering wheel) and it boasts five driving modes: Auto Normal, Auto Sport, Manual Normal, Manual Sport and Increased Control Efficiency (or I.C.E.). It doesn’t seem to matter which mode I’m in – the big V8 accelerates exceptionally hard and the cogs shift with a silky smoothness regardless. But, for a real punch in the stomach, leave it Manual Sport and brace yourself. This sharpens up the throttle response, stiffens up the double-wishbone front and five-link rear suspension (it also has Maserati’s Skyhook adjustable dampers), and makes the exhaust note even angrier. With peak torque available from as little as 2,250rpm, the new engine proves to be exceptionally quick and an absolute blast. But only in a straight line. Even though it is some 100kg lighter than the previous model (thanks to its new aluminium structure), it still tips the scales at a rather portly 1,900kg, and you can feel that weight when you tackle the corners. Its beautifully sculpted exterior (let’s be honest, though, that rear end now looks so generic it could be mistaken for a Volkswagen Passat) could initially have you hoping it’s as nimble as it looks, but the truth is that the chassis is fighting a bit of a losing battle. It doesn’t handle as sharply as I had hoped, and feels very much like the large saloon that it obviously is. No complaints with the stoppers, though; the Brembo-developed dual cast brakes don’t seem to suffer any fade, no matter how hard I push this luxury barge, while the hydraulic power steering offers decent levels of feedback. Maserati wishes to become a large volume carmaker, and would love nothing more than to see the famous, evocative Trident badge on every street corner, all over the world. If most of them are fitted to Quattroportes, I won’t be complaining, especially if I can take one on a long, open and straight road with the occasional tunnel. Make no mistake, this is not a sports car. But it is an entirely worthy flagship for a company on the up, and a vast improvement over the outgoing model in virtually every respect. R OA D T E S T Lamborghini Av e n ta d o r R o a d s t e r WRIT T EN BY Ke v in Hackett “So what do we do with our luggage? Send it ahead by FedEx?” EL PRIMERO CHRONOMASTER 1969 www.zenith-watches.com Life is in the movement For further enquiry, please kindly contact us at [email protected]. C ue nervous, stifled laughter throughout the room, as Stephan Winkelmann, Lamborghini’s president, thinks on his feet for a couple of seconds. The American journalist who posed the question during the press conference just asked out loud what we were all wondering anyway. “You, ahh, travel to your destination with the roof up. Then, when you have checked in to your hotel, and your bags are not in the car, you can have some fun with the roof off,” comes his considered reply. Cue more sniggers, this time a bit more relaxed. Winkelmann knows that the new Aventador Roadster is a ridiculous car – an extreme machine – and that if you really need practicality in your life, you won’t be buying one of these as the daily driver. Of course, the ‘normal’ Aventador does, indeed, have a small luggage compartment sited within its nose, like practically any other mid-engined supercar you can think of. But the Roadster? That’s where you keep the two roof panels, which slot beautifully into the space where you’d nor29 mally be packing your clean underwear. Once those panels are snapped into place above the car’s open cockpit, normal space duties resume, so Winkelmann’s theory is the only one that makes even the slightest bit of sense. The Aventador’s interior does feature a small cubbyhole between the seats but even that is only sufficient to house a couple of credit (or organ donor) cards. The Aventador Roadster is about as far removed from ‘normal’ as it’s possible to be when it comes to motoring. It’s a statement piece, a halo car for a brand that, this year, celebrates its 50th anniversary. Against all the odds, Lamborghini has survived financial destitution, often suspect product ranges and a succession of owners who, frankly, had no clue what to do with the company set up as an almighty ‘up yours’ to Enzo Ferrari. R OA D T E S T There isn’t a single duff line on this car. It is an utterly perfect design, at once jagged, vicious, sharp and creased, yet beautiful, harmonious and stunning in its execution. While the Murcielago and the Diablo before it were outrageous, they both appeared awkward from some angles, but not this thing. It’s an absolute triumph and, even if it was rubbish to drive, it would still be worth buying, just to be able to open the garage door and look at it. Having previously spent quality time in the coupé, I know the Roadster will be capable of incredible feats. Miami, Florida, is the perfect environment for Lamborghini, especially for models that allow for open-air thrills, such as this. If you think it’s hard turning heads with your any new car these days, this place is even more used to seeing the extraordinary and the outrageous. Yet the Aventador Roadster, from what I’ve experienced so far on this trip, is a sensation. Pedestrians cheer as the cars rumble through the streets of South Beach, shouting out to ask if the drivers mind if they take a photo or shoot some video footage with their phones. If Megan Fox was to disrobe and walk into town, she wouldn’t get any more attention that this car. It’s a bona fide superstar but I need to give this Lamborghini some proper exercise and, at least in this part of the US, that means heading for the racetrack. Miami’s Homestead Speedway has claimed numerous lives since its opening in 1995. And this little nugget of information means that, today at least, I’ll be taking it a little easier than normal. The drill is a familiar one on Lamborghini’s launch events: three or four cars out on track at a time, with a lead car up front, whose driver is in communication with the rest via a radio that sits on the passenger seat (no handy storage bins in a car like this). Four hot laps, then a cool down lap, then it’s back to the pits for a coffee until it’s your turn to go again. The beauty of doing things this way is that, although you’re constantly under supervision, you really do get to give the car a hammering, because those lead drivers don’t hang about. It’s your duty to keep up with everyone else and it’s a proper adrenaline rush when your fellow drivers are really on the pace. My first lap is one that could best be summed up as “hesitant”. It’s been almost 18 months since I last drove an Aventador and I’d forgotten just how brutal it is when you’re driving hard. Every gear change snaps back my neck, the gathering of pace relentless and violent when I open the taps and allow all the pent up fury of the V12 behind my head to vent itself. This is a car that absolutely demands respect, despite its fourwheel-drive transmission and its carbon brakes. 700hp can be a corruptible force, especially when one is pressing on around an unfamiliar and unforgiving circuit. There seems to be loose gravel and other detritus covering large swathes of the track surface, and the Roadster in front of me on my first couple of laps is obviously struggling to retain traction. Its rear end is shimmying around, its driver must be petrified. We’ve been forbidden from disengaging the traction control, so there will always be a degree of electronic intervention, but it does not do to throw oneself entirely upon its mercy. You need to think ahead, at all times, and preempt as many potential problems as possible. This means not straying too far up the banking around the main track, and getting on the brakes hard as you’re approaching the sharp corners of the infield areas, leaving it as late as possible to get back on the power, without losing your momentum. It’s a nerve shredding exercise for the first few laps but, when it’s my turn again, I delve and find reserves of bravery I thought had long since vanished. And the resulting laps are extraordinarily thrilling. The structure of any Aventador is made up primarily of carbon fibre – a material Lamborghini has been busying itself with for decades – and that expertise really shines through with the Roadster because, even without its roof in place, this car is as stiff as it gets. The structural integrity provided by the central tub, makes for zero flex, even when you’re taking corners at ridiculous speeds. When the two panels are fixed in place, the structure becomes even stiffer, and the Roadster feels every bit as honed and as tight as its coupé brother. The effort that has been put into making this model as good as it is, is exemplary and yes, 31 FedExing those bags would be a worthwhile exercise, just so you can enjoy the hedonistic, riotous fun this car provides. But while, given the right amount of respect, the car can indeed be fun, it still bites the hands of those who make the occasional mistake. On the infield circuit, just before the banking begins, another journalist makes an error, probably due to a splitsecond lapse of concentration, and he gets on the power just that little bit too early when coming out of the final, tight bend. The car is in its normal ‘Strada’ drive mode, the most forgiving and benign of its three settings, yet in the blink of an eye he’s entered a spin, from which there is no way back. He tries to steer into the skid, tries to control the slide with the brakes, but it’s all too little, too late. The spinning car leaves the track, hits the grass and digs itself in, coming to a rest. It’s all happened within two or three seconds and, in order to avoid a pile-up, the two drivers behind have ended up going off-piste as well. What could have been carnage, however, ends up being one stoved-in front spoiler section and a properly bruised ego for the guy who was first spanked by this wild car. It could have happened to anyone. What this car needs is space, and lots of it. The circuit here is too tight – what we need is a wide, perfectly smooth road, with long and sweeping bends. I know just where to take it when the Roadster is next in my custody, and that will be another story for another day. Take it from me, though, that the Aventador Roadster is currently the pinnacle of what Lamborghini is capable of. It’s fast on an epic scale, it’s extremely well engineered and exquisitely crafted and it’s still wild, just like a V12 Lamborghini should be. Of course, it’s ridiculous in every single way, but aren’t you glad that there’s still at least one company out there unafraid to stick its neck out and be different from all the rest? Me too. R OA D T E S T P o r s c h e C ay m a n S WRIT T EN BY Ke v in Hackett “Bam! Bam! Bam! Bam!” C M Y CM MY CY MY K L ast night, outside a Portugese restaurant, Markus Baumann was doing his best impression of Porsche’s flat-six engine, his right hand quickly moving back and forth as he uttered those sounds. He was talking, rather excitedly, about the manual gearbox in the new Cayman, and his enthusiasm was both contagious and entirely understandable. Yesterday, after a tortuous series of flights to get to Portugal, where this car is being launched for the international media, I got to drive a Cayman S from a Porsche dealership to our hotel on the coast. I’d almost forgotten what it was like to pilot a pure sports car along truly mind blowing mountain roads. Within five minutes I knew, without a single nagging doubt, that this is the very best driver’s car available today. And I don’t say this sort of thing lightly. Baumann is the man in charge of engine development, and the manual transmission now benefits, in Sport Plus mode at least, from an automatic blip when performing downshifts. It’s an unnecessary feature but it’s fun. And that, more than anything, is what the new Cayman is about: the one f-word we love to say, but rarely get to, when describing the driving experience on offer from a new car. It’s improved in every possible way over the outgoing model. It looks stunning, like a diminutive Carrera GT with a roof. The wheelbase is 60mm longer and its track is wider, for improved handling. The engines (2.7-litre for the normal one and 3.4 for the S) are more powerful, lighter and drink less. And yet they sound utterly intoxicating, especially when you hit Sport Plus and the trick exhaust opens its throat. It’s pure racecar and, when you lift off the throttle, the pops and bangs and gurgles that pour forth are sonic heaven. I’m struggling to think of any aspect about this car that doesn’t delight me. So I have accepted what I already knew deep down. This is the perfect sports car – something I was close to saying about the new Boxster last year, after driving one for a few days. But the Cayman is stiffer, more focused on delivering a better hit, better able to unleash that enthusiastic driver you know 33 you are, if only you had the right wheels and the right roads at your disposal. I don’t often take the opportunity to talk cars with the people I meet on press launches, who are responsible for developing them, but last night I couldn’t help myself. I just had to go and shake their hands and congratulate them on doing the very best possible job. But today is the real test. As blindingly brilliant as a car can be on public roads, it’s the racetrack that sifts the wheat from the chaff, sorts the men from the boys. Today, the weather is just right – cool, free of wind and the sun is shining. And the track, that I had assumed would be little more than a glorified karting circuit, is nothing of the sort. The Autodromo Internacional Algarve is one of the best I have ever had the privilege of experiencing – extremely long, with a flawless surface for plenty of grip, and numerous blind crests and scary dips to be taken flat-out, if you’re brave enough. R OA d | B oo k “For five incredible laps, this car provides the most addictive adrenaline rush, exhibiting perfect poise and balance” 34 R OA D T E S T I climb into an S model with Porsche’s excellent PDK dual-clutch transmission (tellingly, not a single car here is blighted by the infernal toggle switches that normally ruin the experience – they’re all either manual or fitted with proper, beautifully engineered alloy paddle shifters) and adjust my seat. As I wait for the lead car’s driver to give us the nod to head on track, I take a moment to look around the cabin and it’s as though the previous model had never existed. Everything is intuitive, tactile and lovely to look at. The seats (bucket items yesterday, regulars today) are wonderfully comfortable, supportive and easy to position for just the right posture. It’s time to go, and the lead instructor doesn’t hang about. He’s in a new 911 Carrera S and immediately guns it out of the pit lane – even on the first familiarisation lap it’s scarily quick. I have my car in Sport Plus mode, for increased punch and a stiffer chassis set-up, and it doesn’t disappoint. For five incredible laps, this car pro- 35 vides the most addictive adrenaline rush, exhibiting perfect poise and balance, and more than enough power to keep on the tail of that wailing Carrera up front. The grip from the Cayman’s front tyres is terrific, allowing the tightest corners to be taken at speeds that would have most other cars struggling to maintain the driver’s chosen line. The S puts down its 325hp with eagerness, practically egging you on, no matter how undulating the track or road surface happens to be. There’s nothing intimidating about its delivery, though. It’s back to that f-word again because, quite unlike a 911 GT2, this car never gives the impression that it’s out for your scalp, even at speeds that would have you locked up in most countries. For anyone hell bent on buying the Cayman’s bigger and older Carrera brother, this car could well sway them if they approach it with an open mind. Granted, the Cayman has only two seats, but it does have two boots: one fore and one aft of the cockpit, making it entirely practical for a car of its type. Porsche’s performance claims always err on the side of downplaying, but consider the official statistics, such as its 0-100kph time of under five seconds, together with a maximum speed of 283kph and – get this – combined fuel economy to the tune of 8.8-litres per 100km, and you have to wonder why anyone would want for more. Those figures don’t paint the full picture, of course, but the Cayman consistently feels staggeringly quick, eminently chuckable through the bends and inspires huge levels of confidence in the driver, rewarding him or her with the drive of their lives, time after time. Have I managed to discover a chink in its armour? No I have not. In fact, as I write these words, my legs are still shaking – it’s that exhilarating. Jaguar, your F-Type has a new benchmark – the Cayman S has just set the bar higher than it ever was. And, if you’re in the market for a new Porsche, take off those 911-shaped blinkers because this little car is the thinking person’s Carrera. R OA d | B oo k gentleman on a journey jeremy hackett W R I T T E N BY K E V I N h ac k ett I 36 It was one life’s pivotal moments for me. Sat on a busy commuter train, there it was – my name emblazoned across the chest of another man. My surname, the thing that made life so miserable for me as an adolescent living in the wilds of North Wales in the UK, was there on a polo shirt being worn by someone that looked like he knew how to dress. My surname seemed somehow socially acceptable, so I owe Jeremy Hackett, founder of the eponymous gentleman’s outfitters, a debt of gratitude. He made me glad I wasn’t born Jones, Williams or Thomas. Hackett was, and still is, where it’s at for me. You’ll have seen them yourself – often brightly coloured, always beautifully finished polo and rugby shirts with that name in bold capital letters proudly on display. They’re found on men and boys the world over and say, in an instant, that the wearer knows a thing or two about style. But Hackett’s repertoire extends well beyond the world of sports clothing. It’s a brand that encapsulates every aspect of classic, British menswear and, whether you’re in the market for a tuxedo, a pair of hunting boots, some shades or striped pyjamas, you’ll find the very best in a Hackett store. So meeting the man himself, in the glorious confines of Hackett’s Sloane Street store in London, is something I have been looking forward to for a long time. Dressed, as I knew he would be, sharp as a knife in a classically tailored two-piece pinstripe suit, Jeremy Hackett is the perfect ambassador for the company that bears his name. Instantly likeable, he’s friendly, slightly reserved and softly spoken. Many people in his position are often unreachable and distant but this man simply puts others at ease with a manner that seems foreign to some involved in his particular industry. Just what was the story behind this brand that has become, in some eyes, as iconically British as Rolls-Royce, The Ritz or Big Ben? It’s a story of hard work, determination in the face of adversity and, most importantly, classic and timeless British style. It’s a story that inspires and fascinates in equal measure. Brought up in Clifton, Bristol, Jeremy Hackett spent his first few years in a care home, before being adopted at the age of six. “It was a terrible time,” he says, “and I didn’t get along very well at school.” Leaving secular education behind when he was 17, he entered the world of gentleman’s fashion by taking on a full-time job at a store where previously he’d worked as a Saturday boy. He wasn’t there for long, heading for London less than a year later, working in the fashionable King’s Road. From there he took on a role at a tailor’s shop in Savile Row and the dreams of running his own business started in earnest. “I used to go to Paris a lot and on one particular visit I went to a flea market where I found a man selling vintage clothes, all of them British and all very good quality,” remembers Jeremy. “He said, ‘why don’t you source these for me in England then I’ll come to London and buy them off you?’ I thought that seemed like a good idea so I started going around the markets and shops, buying up the best I could find. And because I’d been in the business all my life anyway, I knew what I was looking at.” The Parisian gentleman started visiting Jeremy once a month and the money came rolling in. “I made quite a good business out of that but soon I started thinking that maybe I should start j e r e m y h ac k e t t “Word soon got around London that Hackett, situated in what their bank manager described as ʻthe wrong endʼ of King’s Road, was the place for the best in classic British clothing.” selling these clothes to the end customers myself. From that idea Hackett was born”. Before this, though, Jeremy had gone into business with Ashley Lloyd-Jennings, opening up a shoe store in 1978. It was in a “completely deserted street full of old warehouses” and lasted, under the Lloyd-Jennings name, for three years or so until the money ran out and it inevitably closed its doors. “We were scratching around for something to do,” says Jeremy, “when this whole vintage thing came up. There was never any business plan, it was more a case of ‘oh well, this might be a bit of fun, might make a few bob’”. In 1983, still without any proper funding behind them, the two opened Hackett after investing £1000 each from their own pockets and the bank matching that with another couple of thousand. “We opened our first shop in Parson’s Green and took £1000 in the first week, which we both thought was absolutely amazing and, from that point on, the business just took off.” Word soon got around London that Hackett, situated in what their bank manager described as “the wrong end” of King’s Road, was the place for the best in classic British clothing. With the shop selling nothing but second-hand clothes (funny how ‘vintage’ these days sounds far more palatable yet means exactly the same thing) for nearly two years, it was becoming increasingly difficult to source good quality items. “We’d get one good jacket in and have ten people fighting over it,” says Jeremy, “so it was obvious there was a demand for the kinds of things we were selling. We just thought it would be a good idea, rather than trading down by buying in junk, to try to reproduce those things and meet that demand”. Starting out, in 1985, with “some tweed jackets and nice shirts”, Hackett took the lease on a shop next door, knocked through and expanded. “At first nobody would go in there,” he admits. “They just wanted the vintage stuff but soon, when customers couldn’t find anything they wanted or something that fitted properly, they relented and bought the new items”. It wasn’t long before sales of vintage clothing were phased out and Hackett, as a brand in its own right, forged ahead with healthy sales of brand new clothes. A year later and Hackett had done rather well for itself and had opened more stores, all within a hundred metres of each other. There was one for shirts and ties, one for tailoring, a specialist formalwear shop, a barber’s and gentlemen’s accessories shop, and a sportswear shop. The area even became known by London cabbies as ‘Hackett Cross’. 39 Left old store photographs prove just how far Hackett’s corporate image has come along in three decades. In the early days they sold a mix of new and vintage clothing. Following page Jeremy Hackett in the company’s flagship Sloane Street store, talks to Road Book about his recently discovered families in Australia and America. Photograph by Holly Falconer R OA d | B oo k What, though, about the polo shirts that managed to get United States. “It was the wrong time for us and Boston was obvia name like mine to enter the subconscious of a nation, to become, ously the wrong place,” Jeremy concedes. “We rapidly ran out of dare I say it, a status symbol of sorts? money and the company was in very real danger. The one thing In 1987 Jeremy was approached by two polo-playing army I’d never do, though, is put my suppliers through any difficulties, officers who were looking for sponsorship. The Hackett Polo Team so keeping Hackett going was always the top priority.” At the time was formed and the polo shirt was born. Originally made solely (1991), many of the smaller fashion houses were being bought up for the team, Hackett customers who had spent a pleasant afterby Japanese companies and there was speculation in the media noon watching a match kept asking to buy the shirts. Hackett as to whether Hackett might be one of them. Alfred Dunhill wasn’t eventually relented and the branded polo shirt became an instant prepared to sit back and watch that happen, so approached Hackett smash hit. about buying a majority shareholding in the company. Unfortunately for Hackett, by the early part of this decade, By 1992 Hackett was in safe hands and Dunhill (later to the polo shirt had become popular with many football hooligans, become the Richemont Luxury Goods Group) invested heavily, evidently taken with the fact that some of the designs featured enabling the opening of what is still Hackett’s flagship store on the St. George Cross. It was, as Jeremy remarks, soul destroying London’s Sloane Street. It was at this stage that Jeremy came up to open a newspaper and see some hoodlum that had been with a slogan for the brand that instantly struck a chord with the arrested the day before with his surname across his chest marketplace: Essential British Kit. It perfectly describes Hackett for the entire world to see. It was – the style could never be mistaken hardly Hackett’s fault – no company for Italian or Oriental, it’s unmistak“We’re only beginning to scratch the can completely control the demoably British throughout. surface, it wasn’t long ago that we opened graphic that buys its products, espeThe following year was when cially when there’s an element Hackett first got involved with our first shop in Japan and that market of wholesale as part of the corpoanother great British institution: has turned out to be huge for us, with similar motor sport, becoming the first rate structure. How does a company counter sponsor of the now hallowed Goodsuccess across Southeast Asia. It’s really this negativity? How can you diswood Festival of Speed. The assotaken us all by surprise” suade a particular group of people ciation with this glamorous world from wearing your clothes and still continues and Hackett has, for bearing your name? The answer came by getting involved with many years now, sponsored the Aston Martin Racing team, coming an altogether different ball game: rugby. There is an old saying up with a range of AMR clothing that sells in extremely healthy that goes, “football is a gentleman’s game played by hooligans numbers. “In the Middle East, we sell more Aston Martin branded and rugby is a hooligan’s game played by gentlemen”. You don’t goods than anything else,” he remarks. “It’s been an extraordinary hear of rioting at rugby matches and the term “rugby hooligan” success for us.” has yet to become part of the British vernacular. As a sport it was Expansion into Paris came in 1994 and, a year later, Hackett perfectly suited to the Hackett brand and a certain Jonny Wilkinbegan selling children’s clothing. The company’s enduring assoson became the face of Hackett in its advertising and promotion. ciation with high profile sports paid off with increased brand It was enough to send the football fanatics over to Burberry, and awareness and there has always been a very good relationship saved Hackett from a messy demise. with Europe’s fashion press, too. As a result, expansion was inevThe timing could not have been more perfect. A year later itable and Jeremy recognises that there’s a fine line to tread between in 2003, England became Rugby World Champions and Wilkincommercial success and diluting the very things about a brand son, the team’s captain, was a national hero, a household name. that made it a hit in the first place. But Hackett, he says, won’t When the team was paraded in front of the world’s media in an veer into women’s wear. “Every season, fashion for women goes open-top bus around the streets of London, each player was wearing through immense changes and it’s almost impossible to keep up a Hackett tailored suit. Nobody thought about football riots when with it. Men are different. They tend to find something they like the Hackett name was mentioned, they just associated it with and stick with it, keeping the same sense of style for many years. national pride and a man that millions looked to as a role model. That’s what Hackett is all about.” That, as they say, was a result. Jeremy was approached by the UK’S Independent on Sunday Another hurdle Hackett had to overcome during the football newspaper in 2005, to write a weekly style column called hooligan phase was when the company tried to expand into the Mr Classic. He agreed and quickly discovered a natural ability 40 j e r e m y h ac k e t t to write engaging and humorous copy. This lasted for two years and the columns were serialised into a book that has sold consistently well. Also in 2005, Hackett was sold by Richemont to Spanish investment group, Torreal, which again has resulted in massive investment, with major revamps of the Sloane Street and Jermyn Street shops in London, as well as expansion across Europe, Central America, South Africa and into Asian countries. “We are in Dubai, Japan, Hong Kong, both of which have received us extremely well. We’re in Kuala Lumpur, about to open in Singapore, we’re in discussions regarding opening in Thailand, we already operate two stores in China, we’re in the Phillipines and India, too.” What, though, of Hackett’s future? “I think we’re only beginning to scratch the surface,” says Jeremy. “It wasn’t long ago that we opened our first shop in Japan and that market has turned out to be huge for us, which has led to similar success across Southeast Asia. There’s such affection for the brand, it’s really taken us all by surprise. If I walk into a menswear shop over there, people instantly recognise me and they know all about Mr Classic, too. They seem to have an appreciation of Englishness that we don’t have even in England.” True to his roots, Jeremy still goes around the market stalls, scanning for items that Hackett can draw inspiration from. “I keep my oar in,” he says. “I find things from years ago that, with a bit of tweaking or re-development, can be worked into our own designs.” Yet it isn’t just vintage clothing that inspires Hackett. Jeremy says that even today’s high-end fashion can bring ideas to the table. “Admittedly what you see on the catwalk will often be way too extreme or avant garde for us as a brand but there’s always a new take on things, always a way of toning down ideas and making them work for a more classic look”. Going back to his adoption as a child, Jeremy had, for many years, been curious about his birth parents. “I decided to try and trace them,” he says, “and went through the Salvation Army. Eventually they came back and said they’d found my mother, from the information on my baptismal certificate. It turned out she lives in Right and opposite Jeremy is instantly recognisable to millions, yet extremely friendly and approachable. His two pet spaniels feature prominently in his life, even making their way to his tie clip. Photographs by Holly Falconer 43 “Every one of our customers should be made to feel incredibly special, whether they’re buying a pair of socks or a made-to-measure suit for thousands of pounds, dollars or yen.” Australia and I was due to visit the country, so I decided against their advice, that it would be a nonsense if I was to pass up on this opportunity.” He made contact, made his way over and met both her and an entire family he never before knew existed. “They’ve all done very well for themselves, my brothers and sisters. And my mother, who had spent her whole life wondering about me, turned out to be an incredibly stylish, wonderful woman. I definitely get my dress sense from her.” He still sees them whenever he can, but what about his father? “Eventually I got to the truth of who he was. When my mother was a young nurse in Oxford, she sweetly says she ‘let her guard down’ and had a short fling with a US serviceman. He had no idea about me and returned to America and by the time I tracked him down he had already passed away,” he adds. “But when I did, I discovered a second group of brothers and sisters, so I have this huge, incredible family now.” As for his father’s sense of style, Jeremy says he sadly didn’t have any. “From the photographs I’ve seen, he used to dress like Robert De Niro’s character in Casino,” he laughs. “Although he was a keen amateur racing driver, owned a number of beautiful sports cars and was really into watches, all similar interests to my own. It’s clear to me that the way I turned out has a great deal to do with who my birth parents were.” As chairman of such a successful company, what does he think makes Hackett the company so special, apart from the obvious edge with style and fashion? “Customer service”, he says without hesitation. “Every one of our customers should be made to feel incredibly special, whether they’re buying a pair of socks or a made-to-measure suit for thousands of pounds, dollars or yen. It’s an element sadly lacking in today’s high streets, but I know it makes us stand out as being different. It works too, and we have our reputation built on that very foundation.” He’s right. Hackett is all about feeling good. The quality of the company’s garments and the service received in any of its stores is beyond question. The style is one that won’t date overnight, and the image is one that will never be anything other than Great British. With Hackett sorted, if only someone would make the name Kevin trendy, I’d be a very happy man indeed. Some things, I fear, are not fixable by a fashionable polo shirt. CUBAN MISSILES The country that produces the world’s finest cigars also floods the market with hard-to-spot counterfeits W R I T T E N BY R I C H A R D W H I T E H E A D F or every torcedor in the pristine Partagás factory in central Havana, there is another operating out of a mouldy backstreet dive just a couple of blocks away. As prime examples of Cuba’s mind-boggling dual economy, either one spends his days deftly rolling the brown leaves that keep the decaying country on the world map. Both possess the skills of an artisan; they are masters of their craft of rolling the picked, dried and matured leaves into the finished cigars that are then boxed and sent to connoisseurs all round the world. In Havana, the torcedor (literally meaning the roller or twister) is the glamour boy of the cigar factory. He is the lead actor, ace matador and racecar driver of the country’s sexiest industry. To reach this level, the torcedor has progressed through years of training to develop the kind of muscle memory a golfer or pianist would yearn for. By middle age – and by appearance even older, as Cuban workers age faster through their hardship – they can count hundreds of thousands of finished cigars apiece, each one crafted as if it were a masterpiece. The man in the factory is an employee of Cubatabaco, the government-owned company that has controlled Cuban cigar production in its entirety since the island’s dozens of small businesses were collectivised after the Revolution. For his part, the backstreet torcedor is a capitalist: the product of Havana’s vibrant crime scene and one of the many souls who roll the fakes that flood the global market. He works for one of the many highly organised rings that centre on Cuba’s capital. By Western standards, both men make a pittance, although one does much better than the other because the world wants Cuban cigars, a product that is ridiculously easy to fake. In the world of luxury goods, cigars are unique. For one, they are very reasonably priced, and even the finest Havanas are within the reach of most consumers. But while they are relatively inexpensive, they are also handcrafted, picked from undeniably the world’s finest raw materials, produced by the best qualified and most highly trained craftsmen and distributed to some of the most discerning individuals on earth. They also sell by the millions. CUBAN MISSILES “While many counterfeiters use secondhand boxes to house their cigars, there are those in the game with high-end sticks that invest in their own brand new containers, and these are often better made than the originals.” All this is meat and drink to the counterfeiters, for they relish operating in a big market with very few players. They figure that a cigar buyer is looking to see the legend tripa corta, totalmente a mano (the mark of a handmade Cuban), not caveat emptor. As with anything, cigar knock-offs come in a wide range of quality standards, from the cigar equivalent of the Nigerian 419 email scam – cheap, cheerful and designed to net the most gullible – to high-quality fakes that are seemingly identical to the original. The latter can be so accomplished that it could fool even the most seasoned expert. The fake is unmistakable, and often unsmokable. While still made from Cuban leaves, they often come from factory sweepings mixed with palm or banana leaves.This is big business and the counterfeiters go out of their way to present “genuine” fakes that are thoroughly perfect in the way they are packaged. And it is this craving for perfection that will give many cigar buyers their first and leading clue that what they are being offered is a fake. An eternal quirk of Cuban cigars is that their distributor, Cubatabaco, has an appalling record in terms of packaging, distribution and quality control. Ironically, the shoddier the stick or packaging, the more likely it is to be the genuine article. Cubans have much more to worry about than the appearance of their cigar boxes, and they are happy to justify this by pointing out that the cigars their country exports are almost always handmade. Put very simply, if a cigar box looks absolutely perfect, and isn’t on sale from an official outlet, a consumer should be a little concerned as to its veracity. While many counterfeiters use secondhand boxes to house their cigars (and again, these are often supplied from sources inside the genuine factory) there are those in the game with high-end sticks that invest in their own brand new containers, and these are often better made than the originals. Another giveaway is the quality of the label, although any number of wild irregularities can drop into genuine products. For example, it is not unheard of for an H. Upmann Monarch to sport a red ring, instead of the usual brown one. Indeed, given the level of quality control at some Havana factories, the oftenseen Upmann red could even be viewed as a minor curiosity line. It is perfectly normal to witness, say, Bolívar Belicoso Finos with different policy stamps or the same code letters from two sets of authorities. The cedar paper separating the lower and upper rows can be frayed and non-uniformly set to different dimensions. And, as one might expect from this resource-poor country, there is plenty of mix and match when it comes to materials. This could be in the form of Hoyo de Monterrey des Dieux Cabinets wrapped in the yellow silky ribbon of the Hoyo du Prince, to the point that the legend “Hoyo du Prince” is even stamped on it. Above Government-controlled factories are housed in rundown buildings, where quality control and packaging are often poor. Right Boxes of genuine cigars are likely to be imperfect. If the one you’re looking at is flawless, you should be suspicious. To put it bluntly, Cubatabaco is a textbook example of a small, nationalised company from a tin-pot dictatorship trying to compete in a world of slick, multinational corporates and demanding markets. Meanwhile, Habanos SA, the arm of Cubatabaco that controls the promotion, distribution and export of Cuban cigars worldwide, also isn’t a pumping, thrusting temple to marketing when you visit its offices just a stone’s throw from Havana’s Straights of Florida seafront. Rather, it is dusty and crumbling in the most elegant, Spanish colonial way. Decrepit wall and ceiling fans whir away ineffectively in the Caribbean heat and many of the desks inside remain empty for much of the day; for their would-be occupants, work hours are the basis for an eternal negotiation. Welcome to communism in the Caribbean: it is testament to the world’s love for Cuban cigars that this creaking, derelict company has managed to survive for so long. Habanos owns the trademarks of every brand of Cuban-made cigars in each of its export markets, and it controls the franchises of its La Casa del Habano chain of cigar retail stores. In 2000, the Franco-Spanish tobacco giant Altadis bought half of Habanos, and since then there has been a degree of modernisation. However, observers joke that the European corporate spent its money purchasing the smaller half of the company, given the power the government continues to wield in Cuba. But there have been suggestions that Altadis’ influence has led to Habanos’ drastic restructuring of its cigar lines and size offerings, the adoption of more modern marketing practices and production methods, more in line with cigar companies that market in the United States. It can only really be as a result of Altadis’ involvement, that Habanos has started to take a stand on fakes at long last and, through some savvy marketing, even capitalised on the market’s fears of being duped. The creation of the ultra high-end Cohíba Behike BHK trio of cigars in 2010 was extremely well received around the world. The sticks, all of them with pigtail caps, were delicious, attractive and, above all else, pricey. Added to this, the packaging was tremendously sophisticated and designed to keep the counterfeiters at bay. The true Cohíba Behike BHK band is ornate, with a number of devices meant to make it difficult for fakers to reproduce – a little like adding the watermark to bank notes. It is not hard for punters to note the artfully lettered words “BEHIKE” and “COHIBA”, each one raised in embossed type, so they can feel the texture on the genuine band. Most counterfeits miss this step. R OA d | B oo k “Decrepit wall and ceiling fans whir away ineffectively in the Caribbean heat and many of the desks inside remain empty for much of the day; for their would-be occupants, work hours are the basis for an eternal negotiation.” The real band also features a pair of holograms. The first is within the golden Taino Indian head (Cohíba’s logo), which has ridges on the inside, along with a second, smaller head. The second hologram appears as a number of small heads and the word Cohíba repeated. The cigars come packed in very glossy, black boxes of 10, although many fake Behikes have been packed in bundles, due to the exquisite detail of the genuine box, but recently some fake boxes that attempt to replicate the artwork have been discovered. Initially, the first counterfeit Behike cigars were pigtailed sticks with standard Cohíba bands. This is at the high-end of Cuban cigars, and while there isn’t really a low-end to the market as such – all sticks from the island being vastly superior to most other non-Cuban brands in most people’s minds – some of Habanos’ lesser-known labels are at particular risk of being copied. This is primarily because the likes of Juan López – a rarely chosen but exceptionally rewarding smoke – Fonseca and Gispert do not feature highly in Habanos’ balance book and marketing plans, so are made and marketed today the same way they were a generation ago, and counterfeiters like this. So how do you detect a fake? First of all, check out the box. A green and white warranty seal should be visible on the leftfront-side of it; its colour can range from forest to lime-green, and inside the seal is an insignia that contains a shield with a hat resting on top. Take a close look at this, as the fold line of the seal should run directly through the centre of the shield. On the box’s upper-right corner should be a white Habanos sticker, pasted diagonally. The box should look in neat and clean condition, free of smudges and scuffmarks or any dullness in colour. On the bottom of the box you will find a Habanos heat stamp. Make sure this is impressed into the box, and not an ink stamp. Below the heat stamp will be an ink factory code, usually in green, blue or black. This tells you the factory where the cigars were rolled and the date. Upon opening the box, pull back the flap and smell the tobacco. The fragrance should be pleasing, with a rich, deep aroma, and the cigars should be uniform in both colour and shape. The top face of the cigar may appear flattened, or what is known as box-pressed, and this is particularly true for torpedo shape. The caps (the mouth ends) should look identical, all resting at an equal distance from the top of the box. The foot of the cigar should be cut clean and straight, and the bands should be identical and perfectly aligned. Next, pull a cigar out of the box and feel it, by holding it between your thumb and forefinger. Press together down along the whole length of the cigar and it should feel firm and even; if there are hard spots followed by soft spot, this is a dead giveaway that the cigars are counterfeit. With increasingly more online cigar sources, consider some red flags when buying sight unseen. First, watch out for websites that always seem to stock ediciones limitadadas from 2000 onwards, from Cohíba, Montecristo and Partagás. These limited editions are notoriously difficult to get hold of and will always command a premium, so make sure the site you choose is charging a decent amount for your order. Also, be aware of sites that never stock smaller ring gauge brands. Check if niche names such as Cuaba, Fonseca, Jose L. Piedra, La Flor de Cano, Por Larranaga and Rafael González are often listed but never in stock. And see whether the site can supply orders for tubes, or three- and five-cigar packs, as each of these is harder to counterfeit. Just as it is difficult to tell apart the Habanos torcedor and the counterfeiter based on his experience and skills, it is tremendously hard to tell the fake product from the real. And for this reason there is one golden rule to consider: always buy from an official distributor like La Casa del Habano, or at least from one you trust. This may not always be practical or the most cost-effective method, but one thing is for sure: you will never have to bear the cost, embarrassment or inconvenience of finding that the cigar you are holding was never meant for smoking. 52 Men and women of all age groups are employed by the industry and use only the finest tobacco leaves to produce the genuine articles, whereas fake Cuban cigars often contain floor sweepings mixed with banana leaves. E u r o c o p te r E C 1 4 5 M e r ce d e s - B e n z St y le WRIT T EN BY Wi l l i a m Chu n g R OA d | B oo k I t seems like the most logical thing in the world: harness the expertise of a renowned luxury car manufacturer, who has over a century of experience in maximising the intelligent use of limited space, to design the interior of a helicopter. Why had no one thought of this before? Okay, so Embraer started the ball rolling with its involvement with BMW but the confines of a helicopter are much more restrictive than even a small passenger jet. Eurocopter supplies the civilian and military markets with an impressive range of aircraft and its medium-sized EC145 is, the company maintains, the ultimate multi-role helicopter. And, two years ago, the special edition ‘EC145 Mercedes-Benz Style went into production, and it signified a completely new direction for the car manufacturer. Designed by Mercedes’ Advanced Design Studio in Como, Italy, with the corporate and luxury holiday traveller in mind, this joint venture was a world first. Mercedes-Benz, along with BMW and Audi, builds cars with the world’s finest interiors, in layout, ergonomics and quality of construction. And the EC145 MBS (seating for eight passengers) had its cabin design inspired by Merc’s groundbreaking R-Class – a luxury vehicle that combines the physical size of an S-Class with the space and practicality of a seven-seater SUV. Just the thing for literally high flying executives on the move – it even has tinted windows to keep the prying lenses of paparazzi photographers at bay. All the helicopter’s (leather, naturally) seats are mounted on rails for quick and easy configuration and they can be simply removed if extra floorspace is called for. Multi-function boxes house cup holders, chillers, monitors and DVD players and beautiful, colouradjustable ambient lighting has been lifted from the E- and S-Class cars. The tail section has also been redesigned to accommodate golf clubs/bicycles/surfboards/anything you can think of for your holiday or business trip. In fact, no stone has been left unturned when it comes to luxury and it manages to make many executive limos appear rather cheap in comparison. The turbine-powered EC145 aircraft is at the top of its class in the medium-sized, twin-engine helicopter category. It combines Eurocopter’s leading-edge developments in cockpit design and avionics, while also incorporating a hinge-less rotor system and enhanced rotor blades that reduce sound and vibration levels. Many hundreds of EC145s have been sold around the globe for a full range of operations, and it is the only helicopter of its type that can seat up to eight passengers. Mercedes is keen to point out that this joint venture was just the beginning and that a raft of other, nonautomotive designs will be steadily unveiled (they’ve started introducing powerboats and even the occasional sofa). On the basis of this extremely versatile and well-appointed Eurocopter, that can surely only be a good thing. T HE S HOPPES AT M ARINA B AY S ANDS, B1- 75 G ALLERIA L EVEL, SINGAPORE 018972 T: +65 6634 1093 56 - [email protected] L I V ING B EY OND WEALT H www.indiciumgroup.com At just 32 years of age, New Zealander Bruce McLaren perished in a violent crash. But his genius behind the wheel, as well as the drawing board, left a lasting legacy. W r i t t e n by D e ja n J ova n ov i c Right Bruce McLaren spent his formative years hanging around the Auckland service station and workshop run by his parents, putting him in good stead for a future in motorsport. Far right and below McLaren won four Grands Prix but never a championship – something the company that bears his name has since made up for, becoming the third most successful of all F1 constructors. S t. Mary’s is a fast left, giving you a moment to exhale before swinging the wheel right for the sharp Lavant Corner, then opening up wide, winding out the steering wheel for Goodwood Circuit’s longest straight. Any race car will quickly get up to 250kph on this part of the short track before braking for the final, second fastest turn, the double-apex Woodcote. The orange M8D Can-Am car was bursting the warm air of that summer noon, its monstrous silicon-aluminium 7.6-litre V8 bombarding the calm of the Sussex countryside. It had Goodwood all to itself on this test day of June 2, 1970. Bruce McLaren pulled into the pits to cull the oversteer of his team’s car and adjust the enormous rear wing sprouting from the smooth, organic bodywork. He was ready to go again at 12:19, careened through St. Mary’s and Lavant one last time, the 670hp Chevrolet bigblock open wide for the slight kink in the middle of the straight. The rear wing let go, the composite bodywork peeled off the monocoque chassis, and the M8D veered off the track at 270kph. Papaya Orange bits littered the trackside, two 16-inch wide black rubber strips pointed straight towards a marshal’s embankment, debris laid everywhere. The young Bruce McLaren was thrown out of the destroyed car and died instantly. It was all over, but it had only just begun… Today McLaren Racing celebrates 50 years since its founding, having competed in 722 Grands Prix, amassing eight constructors’ championships and 12 drivers’ titles on the way, with 155 pole positions, 151 fastest laps, and 182 race victories – the highest winning ratio of any team ever. Higher even than Scuderia Ferrari, despite the Italian outfit’s 16-year head start. “To do something well is so worthwhile that to die trying to do it better cannot be foolhardy. It would be a waste of life to do nothing with one's ability, for I feel that life is measured in achievement, not in years alone,” Bruce once wrote. And how right could one man be? Bruce McLaren came from the small country of New Zealand – Chris Amon, Denny Hulme, Howden Ganley, Mike Thackwell, rally driver Possum Bourne, the Millen family, Jim Richards (arguably the greatest tin-top racer of all time) all originate from there, a land of just four million people. They must have some highoctane water. In perspective, how many Costa Rican, Georgian, “McLaren didn’t get a head start in racing, bitten by the bug only when he was about sixteen after his first competitive event on a beach, west of his hometown, Auckland.” 62 Croatian or Moldovan racing drivers have you heard of ? The roads throughout New Zealand are mostly gravel, the weather unpredictable, and in the countryside laws lax, allowing young boys to perch themselves into a car and gain valuable early experience slipping and sliding past the farms. All those mentioned are great drivers without a doubt, but Bruce McLaren and 1967 Formula One world champion Denny Hulme stand out. Their paths seemed destined to run in parallel – born just two months apart in 1937, both their racing careers began in their home country and both men ended up pursuing glory in Europe thanks to Australian Jack Brabham. McLaren, however, didn’t get a head start in racing, bitten by the bug only when he was about sixteen after his first competitive event on a beach west of his hometown, Auckland. “I was the one who brought Bruce McLaren over, really, because I had a driver-to-Europe scheme in New Zealand, and he won that,” said the three-time Formula One champion Brabham. “Of course that only gave him airfare to England, and that’s not a lot of good – getting over here is only half the fight.” But Bruce was always a fighter. In his childhood he battled persistent health problems, suffering loss of bone mass in his leg. Doctors kept him in hospital for weeks, and three years little Bruce had to be in plaster. Through sheer will, the condition eventually settled and he was left with a leg 1.5-inches shorter than the other, but that wouldn’t stop the boy rising to heady heights. Under ‘Black Jack’s’ wing, an astonishing Formula 2 victory at the Nürburgring followed by a win in Casablanca got Bruce into John Cooper’s good books – his illustrious new boss even suggested the youngster should assemble his own car, with a bit more colour than that… (“Where’s you car?? In that pipe rack I reckon, boy.”) Finishing second in the Autosport F2 champion first time out must have helped endear Bruce to the team. At the race of races, the Monaco Grand Prix, Bruce drove a 1.5-litre rear-engined Cooper while his competition benefited from more powerful 2.5-litre motors, yet with finesse and talent the chequered flag waved his F2 car home in second place. Europe, and the world, would remember the young Kiwi’s name. Immediately Cooper promoted him to the sport’s top-tier class of racing, and nearing the end of the 1959 Formula One season, the 22-year old McLaren’s consistent results at the front of the pack dicing with illustrious teammates Stirling Moss and Brabham, cemented his status as a world-class driver. He was especially noted for his deftness behind the wheel of the rear-engined Coopers (the rest of the grid still had the ‘horse in front of the carriage’) that were particularly tail-happy. In fact, the sport’s layout revolution has a disputed origin, depending on whether you believe one John Cooper or Bruce McLaren. The Kiwi at the time claimed, “Hanging the engine off the back of the monocoque was pretty much my idea.” Black Jack won that year’s title by pushing his stricken car across the line in the inaugural United States Grand Prix, and gifting a maiden F1 victory to his protégé. Regardless, the others caught on to “hanging the engine off the back of the monocoque”, yet there were no handouts in the first race of the 1960 season. Bruce won the Argentine round in a car very similar to his previous year’s chassis. With this new rear-engined competition to contend with, however, it was clear the Cooper team would need a new design. It was time for the multi-talented McLaren to call on his years of education gained hanging around his parents’ auto workshop back home. Left Papaya Orange made McLaren’s race cars stand out and is still used on the company’s new road cars today. Below Bruce’s first F1 win at the 1959 American Grand Prix in Sebring, Florida, made history. At 22, he was the youngest ever race winner – a record that stood until Alonso won at Hungary in 2003. “Lotus had turned up in Argentina with this rear-engined car, the first rear-engined Lotus, and it was very quick,” remembers Cooper. “On the way home in the airplane we said if we’re going to win the world championship again, we’d better have a completely new motor car, with a new gearbox. And Jack and Bruce started designing it on the way home in the plane.” Brabham and McLaren now spent as much time behind the wheels as in the drawing office. Cooper’s underpowered and unreliable Coventry-Climax engines would necessitate all their car engineering genius, and Black Jack would finish the year lifting his second championship trophy. In 1961 however, Brabham abruptly left the Cooper team, so Bruce started the 1962 season as the number one driver. At the Zandvoort opener, McLaren set the fastest lap and, at Monaco, the Kiwi won his second career Grand Prix, not including two additional victories in nonchampionship rounds at Goodwood and Reims. But his engineering influence was starting to be less felt in the Cooper team, as the team’s owners wanted more authority in design. Behind his boyish smile Bruce was starting to mature. The following year Bruce founded McLaren Racing Limited, and initially concentrated on sports car racing and the ultra-competitive world of Can-Am in North America. These cars were essentially F1 bolides with enclosed wheels and little rules to hold designers back. No wonder, then, that with 600-plus-horsepower they lapped contemporary circuits two or more seconds quicker than F1 cars. Bruce was skeptical at first: “Jesus Christ, there’s never been anything like this! There’s no way we can use all this horsepower.” But on constant edge of adhesion, Can-Am cars suited Bruce’s intimate feel of a racing machine, and his ingenuity in both design and driving meant McLaren cars won five out of six races in their second year of Can-Am competition. In 1967, McLarens were victorious four times, and in 1969 the orange monsters demolished the field with 11 out of 11 wins. In between Bruce even found time to win the 24 Hours of Le Mans in a Ford GT40 in the closest ever finish of the race, mere inches ahead of the sister car of Englishman Ken Miles. The pull of the grand prize, however, was never far behind and for the 1966 season Bruce first lined up his trademark Papaya Orange F1 car at the new McLaren team’s top-tier debut. Engine issues dogged the M2B chassis all season though, and Bruce could only manage two finishes scoring meager points at Brands Hatch and Watkins Glen. A BRM V12 hardly made things any 66 better the following year, with just one points finish materialising in Monte Carlo. Fortunately, scoring Cosworth’s legendary DFV engine for 1968 – a V8 that would go on to power McLaren Grand Prix cars until 1983 before turbochargers took over – finally demonstrated the Kiwi’s engineering talents, as the new M7A car (co-designed by Robin Herd, of Concorde fame) took Bruce to victories at Brands Hatch and the daunting Spa-Francorchamps. Further wins by teammate, countryman and old friend Hulme in Italy and Canada, as well as nonchampionship success at Silverstone, bagged the McLaren team its first real achievement with second place on the constructors’ table behind Lotus. While the ‘Bruce and Denny show’ rumbled on to great success in Can-Am, 1969 saw the McLaren team finish third on the F1 table with Hulme taking the last round in Mexico. “I enjoyed the Can-Am cars more, probably,” recalls Hulme. “They were much more exciting, the American people were much more enthusiastic, and certainly the money was a hell of a lot better. I thought the McLaren Can-Am cars were the best I’ve ever driven, and I still do. They were certainly fun. You could go out and knock a second off, and then go out again and knock two or three seconds off.” “The pull of the grand prize was never far behind and, for the 1966 season, Bruce first lined up his trademark Papaya Orange F1 car at the new McLaren team’s top-tier debut.” But it wasn’t all certain fun. Bruce once said: “You’re doing 170mph and the unexpected happens, you lose your brakes, a wheel comes off, the steering goes dead. This has happened to me many times.” When it happened one last time for Bruce, as the previous year’s Can-Am title defendant, crashing at Goodwood on that fateful June afternoon just days before the 1970 opener at Mosport in Canada began, his words still echoed through the factory halls: “To do something well is so worthwhile that to die trying to do it better cannot be foolhardy.” His team picked itself up and won nine out of 10 races that year, and Papaya Orange was but a blur all over North America, from Mont-Tremblant to Riverside, through Watkins Glen and Laguna Seca. A mere four years later, the Grand Prix squad began its glorious ascent and the trophy cabinets started overfilling. Brazilian Emerson Fittipaldi gave McLaren its first drivers’ championship title in 1974, and from the 1980s to the early 1990s the team dominated with seven drivers’ crowns and six constructors’ titles, pioneering mainstay technologies like carbonfibre construction. Its 1988 MP4/4 chassis epitomised McLaren excellence by winning all but one Grand Prix of the season, and is still regarded by many as the greatest F1 car of all time. The humble British team with New Zealand roots is today a group of successful companies, supplying the entire F1 grid with electronic control units, and revolutionising the world of super sports cars with McLaren Automotive’s MP4-12C range, and upcoming P1 hybrid hypercar reported to be capable of a sub-six minute lap of the Nürburgring, a time which would have put the machine on pole position in a 1970s Grand Prix. “I feel that life is measured in achievement, not in years alone,” McLaren once said. Half a century later, and the achievements still keep coming. 69 The Lord of the Land wri t t en by Ke v i n h ac k e t t photog ra p h y by M a x E a r e y R OA d | B oo k C limbing aboard the Land Rover affectionately known as Huey after having spent a morning cosseted inside a luxurious, supercharged Range Rover V8 is nothing short of a culture shock. With no power assistance for anything, no soundproofing, no leather upholstery, no creature comforts whatsoever, this is motoring from a bygone era and it's not easy. There are some rudimentary instruments in the centre of what barely passes for a dashboard, a couple of levers protruding from the bare metal floor, a measly, leatherette seat squab between my derrière and the fuel tank and that's about it. It's slow off the mark, as you might expect from a 50hp car that was built in 1948, and it's noisy. I can hear transmission whine and practically every valve, every piston, every lever doing its stuff. Change gear and you can feel the ker-thunk as metal meets metal and the next ratio is brought into play. It's not ideal transport for that allimportant first date and you wouldn't want this four-wheel-drive for the school run either, but Huey positively oozes charisma. History is squeezing its way through every one of his enormous panel gaps. HUE 166 is the world's oldest Land Rover and I'm driving him in the place of, if not his birth, then at least his conception 66 years ago: Red Wharf Bay on the North Wales island of Anglesey in the UK. Which happens to be about five minutes from where I used to live. For it was here, in the summer of 1947, that Maurice Wilks (then technical chief of Rover) first came up with the idea of a world-conquering vehicle to kick-start exports for the ailing Rover car company. After the Second World War, steel was in short supply and Rover needed it to build cars. However, the government demanded guarantees of overseas sales to boost the country's battered economy before supplies would be forthcoming. A stopgap model, one that appealed to overseas markets, was required to boost the company coffers and Wilks was the man with a plan. He and his brother Spencer (Rover's then managing director) owned a farm on Anglesey, where their families used to holiday. To get about the land they used “HUE 166 is the world's oldest Land Rover” a war-surplus American Willys Jeep bought from a neighbour back home in Warwickshire, but they soon found weaknesses in its design as it often managed to get stuck in the muddy soil. Maurice reasoned that Rover could do better. While some work was going on at the farmhouse, the Wilks family stayed at a tiny hamlet on Anglesey called Wern-y-Wylan, where a single-lane track takes visitors down to the vast sands of Red Wharf Bay. Maurice and Spencer walked towards the ocean, talking about the idea and sketched a basic design for a new vehicle in the damp sand. It would offer the benefits of a tractor with on-road usability. It would be a Rover for the land. A Land Rover. The Wilks brothers bought another Jeep and fitted it with a Rover engine and gearbox. It worked. Then they commissioned a prototype known as the "Centre Steer", due to its central steering column. This was far too complex for production, so the idea was shelved and the car dismantled. The drawing in the sand was the same basic design used for the Centre Steer, but subtle changes were brought in for the next prototype and it's the one you see here. Much debate rages about Huey's provenance. Some claim he's actually the first production car built after an initial batch of 48 prototypes, but Land Rover's technical communications manager, Roger Crathorne, is here with me and is quite adamant. "Huey is the first of the prototypes, no doubt," he tells me. "His chassis number is LR1 and the comprehensive records we hold tell the whole story. HUE 166 first rolled out of the factory on 11th March, 1948." Crathorne joined Land Rover as an engineer in 1963 and is still there, so if anyone should know, he should. 72 R OA d | B oo k t h e lor d o f t h e l a n d “Their simplicity of construction has made them ideal for use in some of the planet's most remote and inhospitable areas” 74 75 R OA d | B oo k t h e lor d o f t h e l a n d Series production started in June 1948, with Rover still viewing the £450 model as nothing but a short-term fix. Ninety-year-old Bert Gosling was there right at the beginning, and remembers the early days with great fondness: “The only tools we had were those on the shop floor: hammers, saws, simple folding presses. The designs were all sketched on scraps of paper. They didn't even have measurements on them and we were told to make what we could but without press tools. We made them up as we went along and none of those first cars were identical.” Ironically, given that the Land Rover was born from a desire to secure supplies of steel, the car was (and still is) mostly made from aluminium, a metal that was bountiful in supply thanks to its use in aircraft manufacture during the war. The Land Rover's bulkhead was made from steel for strength, as was its chassis, but the rest was aluminium alloy – no doubt the reason that so many old Land Rovers survive to this day. Within a month of building the vehicles for paying customers, it was obvious Rover had a major hit on its hands and production was significantly increased from 100 vehicles a week to 500. Since then well over two million of these stopgap models have been built and sold, with an estimated 65 per cent of all examples still in regular use. Incredible. The reason for its success, reckons Crathorne, is obvious: "A Land Rover, unlike any other vehicle, gives its occupants a sense of adventure. You really do feel as though you could go anywhere. It's a classless vehicle, too," he adds, "and is equally at home in the urban jungle or in the wilds of Africa. Land Rovers give their occupants an enormous sense of well-being." Another reason for Land Rover's success is that, while the brand has diversified with a range of vehicles that range from the humble Defender and LR2, to the ubiquitous LR4s and the mighty, SUV-inventing Range Rover, as well as the fashionable Evoque, none has ever been compromised when it comes to off-road ability – something that cannot be said for the company's rivals. And here with Huey, on this sodden, beautiful ground, the sense of occasion is almost overwhelming. I arrived in the palatial luxury of a new Range Rover V8, which simply hammers home to me the point that the old timer is possibly the most important vehicle to ever turn a wheel. If you think I'm exaggerating, just consider the uses that Land Rovers have been put to over the decades. Quite apart from the original intended agricultural jobs (they can even power ploughs and hay baling machines as they're towing them), Land Rovers have been pressed into service in the armed forces all over the world. They've continue to see active duty in war zones and they're used as ambulances, fire engines, mountain rescue vehicles, trucks (some with caterpillar tracks), as well as simple, everyday cars. Their simplicity of construction has made them ideal for use in some of the planet's most remote and inhospitable areas, with the majority of problems being fixable in situ with a little technical knowledge and a hammer. 76 77 R OA d | B oo k By contrast, the latest Range Rovers are complex beyond words. Packed to the gunnels with every refinement and luxury imaginable, they're like Bentleys you can drive through fields, rivers, over mountains – wherever you want – and it shows just how far Land Rover has been able to evolve that original idea. Without this car, without this beach and without that sketch in the sand, which vanished as soon as the tide rolled in on that pivotal day, would we have the SUVs that have become so commonplace today? Possibly, but the original Land Rover's breadth of capabilities set a template for all that followed and the world owes it a debt of gratitude. Huey is owned and cared for by Jaguar Land Rover and, when I press Crathorne for a valuation, he remains tight-lipped. "We can't really put a price on him," he sighs. "He's priceless and anyway, as a company we'd never let him go. We need to look back on our humble origins and as a marketing tool, Huey has been invaluable." With its value obviously far greater than the sum of its greenpainted parts, this Land Rover has indeed become something of a celebrity and is frequently wheeled out, especially when Land Rover launches a new model. And its shape, which has become one of the most recognisable in the world, remains fundamentally unaltered in the form of the aptly named Defender. But the winds of change are blowing and soon an all-new design will be decided on and built, replacing the boxy, simple Landie. Currently code-named DC100, the concept cars have been doing the rounds at motor shows all over the world for more than a year now and, while I think they do look incredibly cool and a lot of fun, when the last Defender rolls off the production line, undoubtedly I will feel a twinge of sadness. Because I miss simplicity enough in my life already, and Huey serves as a poignant reminder that when a basic design is right in the first place, there's little point in changing it. So, is Huey the most important vehicle ever built? You know, I think he just might be. 78 D ou b l e 0 h e aven s ky fa l l a s to n m a rt i n d b 5 wri t t en by K ev i n hack et t Photogra p hy by Mat t H owe ll S kyfall, the 23rd official James Bond film, has, in just a few short months, become the seventh-highest grossing motion picture of all time and, at the time of writing, is still doing rather brisk business in China. It was recently released on DVD and, chances are that, if you’re on a long haul flight at any time in the coming weeks, you’ll be able to watch it from the comfort of your first class seat. If you’re one of the very few people yet to see it, sort that out at your earliest convenience – it isn’t without its faults but it is a very special piece of cinema and is just one of a tiny, elite group of films to take more than a billion dollars at the box office. With Sam Mendes in the director’s chair, Skyfall was always going to be something special. Having been responsible for classics such as American Beauty and Road to Perdition, Mendes’ admittedly short career in film has established him as a safe pair of hands and a storyteller par excellence. Anyway, he was never going to make a film worse than 2008’s Quantum of Solace, was he? Make no mistake, the James Bond franchise needed a shot in the arm and Mendes sorted that in inimitable style. Yet for all the action set pieces, the brooding malevolence of Javier Bardem’s villain and the majestic location photography, for many the real star of the show was a classic car: an Aston Martin DB5. This Aston Martin DB5, to be precise. Since Sean Connery blasted onto the screen in a DB5 in 1964’s Goldfinger, the British luxury carmaker has been inextricably linked with the world’s least discreet secret agent, and that gadget laden Aston has easily become the most famous car of all time. Only two DB5s were used for the filming of Goldfinger – one of them was sold by RM Auctions in 2010 for $4.6 million, while the other went AWOL years ago and is believed by many to have been stolen. A further two were commissioned by Eon Productions after the release of 1965’s Thunderball (by which time the film franchise has become a global phenomenon) for promotional duties, with the deadly arsenals retrofitted. At least three of those four cars were, unbelievably, taken back to their original specifications once no longer required for duty. All the Bond paraphernalia was ditched and they were, once again, normal DB5s. Over the years, the owners sensibly had everything put back on them, and though they weren’t exactly ‘original’ anymore, that has never seemed to matter in the eyes of hungry collectors. The DB5 you see before you, however, is not one of them. Those four original Bond cars would always be too precious to use in further celluloid adventures and, when the DB5 was next seen in a 007 film, it was as late as 1996, when Pierce Brosnan assumed the role in Goldeneye. Chasing down a twisting mountain road, conducting the ultimate four-wheeled flirtation with a brunette seductress who happened to be a dab hand behind the wheel of a red Ferrari F355, while his elegant therapist was sat beside him, it was a welcome return for the glamorous Aston Martin, even if the Ferrari would actually have thrashed it had the scene been played out for real. A cameo appearance for the DB5 cropped up in 2006, when Daniel Craig stepped into the tux for Casino Royale, winning a coincidentally silver example in a game of poker. And while these self-reverential in-jokes have raised the occasional smile or eyebrow, there was something tangible missing. We might not have realised it at the time, but we yearned to see that car in all its widescreen, cinematic glory, for more than just a fleeting few seconds. And it took Sam Mendes to make that happen. As is normally the case, two identical cars were used in filming Skyfall. One of them is actually owned by Eon and another needed to be sourced, so that different cars could be used for internal and external driving shots. Here is where the production team ran into some difficulty, because these incredibly valuable Aston Martins are not easy to get hold of for filming. They needed a car of precisely the same vintage, with the same Silver Birch paintwork and the same black leather upholstery. Turning to Aston Martin’s Works (formerly Works Service) department at the company’s former headquarters in Newport Pagnell seemed to sensible thing to do. As luck would have it, a DB5 had been taken in for a complete restoration and they hadn’t yet commenced work on it. The owner was happy enough to loan the car for filming but there were, inevitably, further problems. For starters, it was dark green and had tan leather seats. It also needed some work to get it roadworthy, so Works set about matching the colour and dying the leather interior (with a distressing process that gave it the required patina), as well as making minor changes to the dashboard instrumentation. The external aerial had to be removed, the correct three-eared wheel spinners and a pair of wing mirrors sourced, as well as bumper overriders, clear indicator lenses, period correct Avon tyres and a pair of pressed black and silver metal number plates. Oh, and the correct ‘GB’ badge had to be specially manufactured for the boot lid. Some repair work was carried out to the floorpan, and it was good to go. All of this took just six weeks, with the plan being that, after its six months’ tour of duty with Daniel Craig, it would be returned to Works for the original planned restoration to commence. However, since the car became such a hit, the owner has decided against returning it to its original specification and it is currently being rebuilt as an exact replica of how it appeared in the film. The Silver Birch paint of this DB5 simply adds to the moody drama of the bleak Scottish roads that were used in Skyfall during his escape journey to the Bond ancestral home in the Highlands. Autumnal brown and orange and muted green shades cover the desolate hills and mountainsides like a subtle tartan while low, dark grey clouds sweep into the frame. It could only be the north of Scotland. This is a staggeringly beautiful, yet savage part of the British Isles, and the DB5 seems right at home here. It takes a firm, decisive hand to wring the best out of these cars – no power steering, a sometimes-recalcitrant gearbox and a hefty clutch pedal see to that. A new Vanquish or DB9 would be a far easier drive but these old timers offer their own, unique charms. Long journeys can seem daunting thanks to the deep, sonorous boom from its fourlitre, straight-six engine, and the seats aren’t exactly cutting edge when it comes to lumbar support but none of that matters when you’re inside something as glamorous as this. To many eyes (mine included), Aston Martin has never built anything to touch the DB5’s perfect lines and proportions – it’s a glorious combination of Italian flair and old school Britishness. During the film, one of the lighter moments was a scene where, just as Bond and M are leaving London in the Aston, to head for Scotland, she bitterly complains about the seat not being comfortable. Bond, fed up with her complaining, jokingly thumbs the gear lever, to reveal the famous red button that had been used to such great effect in Goldfinger, when Sean Connery jettisoned an unwanted passenger. In that R OA d | B oo k “Aston Martin has never built anything to touch the DB5’s perfect lines and proportions – it’s a glorious combination of Italian flair and old school Britishness” 88 d o u b l e 0 h e av e n film, pressing the red button engaged and fired the passenger ejector seat, after a section of the roof panel had been blown off, but M need not have worried this time, because the black outline on this DB5 is a fake. A simple painted-on outline to convince cinemagoers that this could very well be the car that Connery smashed up in Auric Goldfinger’s warehouse compound back in 1964. Filmmaking has come a long way in the past 50 years, and this is perfectly exemplified by the DB5’s excruciating demise in Skyfall. Parked up outside the family pile of the same name, the Aston that fired its machine guns at Bond’s would be assassins, eventually being blown to smithereens, wasn’t an Aston at all, much to the relief of classic car aficionados the world over. Unbelievably, the car we saw being decimated on screen, was actually a third-scale model. Three were commissioned, each made from 18 parts, so they could be filmed being blown apart while the real one cowered somewhere off set. Not models in the traditional sense, these were created using ‘3D printing’ processes. Rather than print using ink on paper, these machines use the digital information from the scan of a real object and ‘print’, layer by layer, using liquids, powders and resins, to form an accurate facsimile of anything from a human head to a Bond car. It’s incredible technology that massively cuts costs and means there’s very little that’s not possible when it comes to making feature films like this. If anything were to go wrong during filming, they’d simply have another one printed and carry on. If only something similar had been available when the original Italian Job was being filmed, we’d still have one Lamborghini Miura, an Aston Martin DB4 Volante and a couple more E-Type Jaguars in our midst. But while we may have reached the stage where we can believe nothing we see on our cinema or television screens, one thing remains as real as ever. And that is the hold the DB5 has over the world at large. The DB6 that followed it in 1965 did, indeed, look quite similar, but its rear end lost some of that daintiness and it just looked a bit too heavily set. And once the DBS replaced that, the styling language of Aston Martins had irrevocably changed, with each successive model becoming larger and squarer. The other thing that cinema trickery cannot, as yet, replicate, is the ethereal beauty of the Scottish Highlands. As this wonderful Aston Martin pounds the roads around Glencoe, it’s little wonder that CNN Travel recently voted Scotland as its ‘Top Travel Destination’, quoting its “dramatic scenery” as a major draw for visitors, before adding that, “anyone who saw Skyfall walked away wishing they too could race through 91 Scotland’s dramatic countryside and hide out in its misty Highlands”. More than anything else in the past few years, it would seem, a James Bond film and a classic car have been responsible for firing the imaginations of people all over the planet. Glencoe isn’t exactly peppered with many roads but, the ones it does have, offer views that will have your jaws scraping the floor. Haunting lochs and glens, craggy and desolate mountain peaks, they all combine in the Highlands like nowhere else. And if you want to drive them yourself, you can. When Bond and M arrive in the Highlands, they’re travelling along the A82 road, at the foot of the lofty peaks of Buachaille Etive Mor and Buachaille Etive Beag. And if you thought they looked familiar when watching this film, that’s probably because you’d already seen them in Braveheart. You can peel off the A82 whenever you see the occasional junction, and you’ll find even more bewildering beauty – it’s a country practically begging to be explored. Explore it you must and, given half the chance to do so in a well sorted DB5, you just might never want to return home or look at another car. James Bond will no doubt return to our screens but, whatever film it ends up being, it has the biggest possible shoes to fill. After the Aston’s obliteration, however, chances are that it’s days are done. This chance to shine was not wasted – cinemas around the world reported audiences bursting into spontaneous applause when the Aston took centre stage – and if you think the asking prices read like telephone numbers now, they’re only going to head in one direction: up. It is a classic in every sense of the word. wri t t en by Ja mes Mc Ca rt hy downwardly Mobile 92 93 R OA d | B oo k D OW N WA R D LY M O B I L E “There is a growing demand by the world’s wealthy for the ultimate weekend toy: the personal submarine” M an has always had a fascination with the sea and what lurks beneath its glassy epidermis. Since the first coracle carried a man into open water, we have been regaled by tales of Atlantis and mysteries of the briny deep, through yellowed and frayed parchment maps declaring “here be monsters,” to literary masterpieces such as Jules Verne’s 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea. In popular culture, men of a certain age will remember wishing through their childhoods that they could have been as debonair as Gerry Anderson’s Troy Tempest, dashing captain of the eponymous Stingray submarine; or gasping at that moment when Roger Moore plummeted into the Corsican sea in a Lotus Esprit. The idea of exploring the earth’s final frontier, then, is ingrained in man’s nature, and since tales of the Nautilus submarine and its charismatic Captain Nemo first enthralled readers of the 19th century, we have strived to find ways to plumb the depths of the world’s oceans. There are records of boat-towed submersibles from as early as 1620, but the first human-powered (usually with a hand crank driven propeller) submarines started to appear in the 1860s. Much of their development seems to have been driven by the American civil war, used for sabotage of enemy vessels and dropping mines. There were also applications for pearling in the Panamanian sea. None of these designs, however, proved overly successful, with many sinking on their maiden voyages or being abandoned once their crews contracted, and later died from, decompression sickness (also referred to as the Bends) of which little was known at the time. It was in 1864 that the first mechanically driven submarine – as we would know such a craft today – was developed. The two-man 14-metre Ictineo II used an air independent engine to propel it through the water. It performed two dives of 30-metres, remaining underwater for two hours and was double hulled, solving pressure and buoyancy issues that had scuppered earlier attempts at building such craft. Then along came Verne in 1870 with his novel and, as a man who was way ahead of his time, also writing about how rockets would one day fire men into space, it was his industrial age imagination that spurred inventors to create vessels more akin to the Nautilus. It was war, not altruism or scientific curiosity that encouraged the rapid development of submarine vehicles, from the Russo-Japanese war at the turn of the last century, to the two World Wars that followed. Even today, it is this constant race to arms that continues to drive their development, particularly in the use of alternative fuels like nuclear fission, but, pretty soon, it is likely to be the world’s wealthy – who are now able to indulge their merman tendencies – that will fuel such invention, thanks to the top few companies that comprise a market that is experiencing significant year-onyear growth. 94 95 R OA d | B oo k The two big players are U-Boat Worx (UBW), founded by Bert Houtman, a Dutch software entrepreneur whose desire to revolutionise the personal submarine market with a more attractive, reliable, safe and accessible product built very much around the user’s experience has borne a very successful niche market, and Triton Submarines, built by a team with a combined 300 years experience in making vehicles to traverse the deep blue abyss: these are the sub-aquatic equivalents of a Rolls-Royce or a Bentley. “There is a tremendous body of knowledge that goes into the design and construction of each submersible,” notes Marc Deppe from Triton. “You could pick any one of our guys out of the shop, and they'll be able to point to some part of each Triton that they had their hand in, based on their decades’ worth of experience of actually operating, building and maintaining subs in the market place. There's nothing that can replace that. D OW N WA R D LY M O B I L E Current and Following page Photographs by David Pearlman a drop in the ocean Triton Submarines 3300/3 The 3300/3 is Triton’s most versatile model, fitted with, the company claims, the largest acrylic sphere on any manned submersible. Two main thrusters and twin vertan thrusters enable the sub to travel at a speed of three knots to depths of 1,000 metres and it’s controlled with a multi-directional joystick. The moveable battery banks can be dropped in an emergency and, aside from the 10-hour dive time, there is an extra 96 hours of life support. “It’s designed to take three passengers to a depth of 3,300 feet [1,005 metres], which is the key to its popularity,” explains Deppe. “If the owner is the pilot he can have two guests with him. And if you look at the short operating history of the Triton 3300/3, it's already done some spectacular things. Not least of which was its recent mission with Discovery Channel and NHK in Japan, where they captured the first ever giant squid footage, and that was done at 600to-900 metres.” “Itʼs not only reflected in the building of the product, when we go and test these things, your life depends on the fact that your guys have all done their job. One of the things that we'll always say to a customer, is ‘a thousand meters down, is not where you want to have made compromises.’” As one would expect, safety in the submarine market, is paramount. The last thing any manufacturer wants is for their sub to be the one that drowns a software company CEO or world-famous actor. Fortunately, as Deppe points out, there is a 100 per cent safety record in the personal submarine market. “To date, they have a perfect operational safety record, with no serious injuries or fatalities. From a statistic standpoint, that's a really remarkable thing. You could say that it is safer than any other transport method in the world, though we do knock on wood every time that we say that!” These vehicles are incredibly robust with, which both manufacturers point out, many layers of redundancy built-in. The biggest threat to the subs while they are underwater is entanglement from fishing nets of heavy gauge filament lines. U-Boat Worx C–Explorer Currently one of UBW’s most popular models due to its practical configuration and full 360-degree acrylic pressure hull, this exceptional submersible cruises at three knots below the surface and can dive to 1,000 metres. Fully equipped and air conditioned, it comfortably seats three people and special atmospheric systems prevent the acrylic dome from fogging, ensuring the best possible experience. Lithium Ion batteries offer 16 hours of dive time, with back up power and life support systems for 96 hours, in case of an emergency. According to Hasselman, “The looks of the submersibles attract people and the specifications and operating characteristics are mind blowing. Our subs can take you to places that no one has ever seen before – and you can stay there until your batteries run out. Or until you need to go to the toilet.” www.uboatworx.com www.tritonsubs.com And for something completely different... The Seabreacher It looks like a cross between a submarine and a dolphin (or killer whale or shark, depending on which model you go for) but the Seabreacher drives like a highpowered jet ski. If deep-sea exploration is not your thing, but the occasional adrenaline rush is, then this is the toy for you. Built by US company Innespace, the Seabreacher can glide both on top of the water at speeds of 72kph, and dive to a depth of five metres, travelling at a speed of around 32kph. The power supplied by the 1,500cc, 215hp marine engine means it has enough power to soar out of the water and fly through the air, but is able to right itself upon splash down. Using a fibreglass hull and a polycarbonate canopy, it dives using its forward momentum, rather than ballast, to sink under the weight of water, meaning that should something go wrong during a dive, the Seabreacher always pops to the surface and self-rights. It uses a snorkle system to supply oxygen to the engine, but allows the boat to dive lower for up to 20 seconds. It takes around 90 days to build. www.innespace.com 96 97 R OA d | B oo k In the case of UBW, having a sleek an exterior as possible helps prevent it, but Erik Hasselman at U-Boat Worx notes that, “if a submersible does get stuck, we always operate with a safety plan, and divers or a recovery vehicle can come down to assist. There is oxygen, CO2 filters, food, water and power for 96 hours, so there is plenty of time. Also, each sub is equipped with a safety buoy, tracking system and communication system in order to locate the sub easily.” Deppe adds that the greatest risk involved is to have an owner or a crewmember disregard the safety procedures that they have been taught, or an owner who makes the decision to pilot the submersible without proper training. For both Triton and U-Boat Worx, the training is key. And intensive. It can take between two to three weeks, including elements of theory, simulator operation and confined water dives. In the case of UBW, a pilot has to have at least 20 open water dives under his or her belt before certification. There is also learning how to launch and recover the sub from the water safely. These time frames are just guides, though, as Hasselman explains: “The actual required training is ultimately dependent on the individual progress of the trainees. At the end of the day we will only issue the certificate if we feel the trainee is a hundred per cent capable to operate the vessel. that those looking to dip their toe in the water, so to speak, should have some basic understanding of the environment they will be entering before they hit the simulators and start their training. “We recommend that potential owners consider getting a SCUBA diving certificate, it is highly recommended for awareness of the underwater environment and circumstances, as well as diving theory, while a power boat license will offer the basic knowledge about boating.” Other ideal technical requirements would include things like a VHF radio licence and a first aid certificate. However, while early adopters of these watercraft would have been adventurous types, Deppe suggests that there is a new trend emerging amongst owners. “Sitting in a climate controlled bubble, sipping champagne and eating caviar is very different to throwing on scuba gear and jumping into the water. It's a much more sophisticated, elegant and soft way of exploring underwater. You could be completely out of shape, and you could be the least adventurous person in the world, but all you have to do is sit in a chair.” However, he does concede that it is still those with experience of scuba diving who make the difference. “Generally the thought process that leads someone to owning a submarine is an adventurous one, someone who wants to do something different. But we are also seeing people who have never been in a submarine and are not divers, who would like to have one on their yacht. Even not knowing anything about it, just finding the best submarine and putting it on their boat and figuring out if they like it later.” This is a massive shift in the luxury boating market for those who want everything and can actually have it. Submarines are now becoming a commodity product to the super-wealthy, like a helicopter or a luxury powerboat, to the point that your mega yacht doesn’t have everything unless there is a submersible aboard. In fact, the trend for these products is reportedly reaching such a tipping point, that yacht manufacturers are approaching the likes of UBW and Triton in order to build the necessary storage, maintenance, launch and recovery facilities into their boats from the word go. Deppe even says that there is a trend towards ‘shadow yachts’, vessels designed and built by yacht owners “just to follow them around to carry the toys”. So, the crux of the matter is, not having a $2 million sub aboard your $60 million yacht – or its $20 million chase boat – is likely to get you blackballed from the best bridge parties next time you moor up in Monaco. Without one, there is a whole lot of holiday fun that you are missing out on. Once you are in the water, the options for a new experience and a great holiday “Although you don’t need to be an engineer or technician to drive the submarine, it is useful to have some technical knowledge to understand some of the basics behind the submarine’s systems.” Deppe points out that there are two different levels of operation. “There's moving the submersible around in the water, ‘driving’ it so to speak, and then there's piloting it. Piloting it is a whole different ballgame. It’s more than just being able to maneuver the submersible, it is being a responsible party in a chain of commands for operations.” He likens it to taking a flying lesson where the instructor hands you the yoke and you can turn left, right, up and down but, if there’s an emergency, the instructor resumes control. “If the owner is not a pilot or his guests aren't pilots and they just want to have a go at operating the sub underwater, it's very intuitive and simple,” he adds. “Itʼs just a matter of minutes and they could be doing it. There are usually auxiliary joysticks where the pilot can flip a switch and the passenger can take control and drive that sub around fairly simply.” While there is no formal licensing or pre-requisite for owning and operating a personal submarine, Hasselman suggests 98 D OW N WA R D LY M O B I L E story are practically limitless. The guys at Triton and UBW say that any good SCUBA site is an ideal starting point, from Fiji to Belize, while Deppe adds that one his clients went diving with Great White sharks recently, which he found to be “an interesting experience.” If that kind of winning anecdote doesn’t earn you Sir Ranulph Fiennes-type kudos at your next yacht club AGM, there’s not much that will. However, with 95 percent of the world’s oceans still unexplored, perhaps the real question is why wouldn’t you have one? In that vein, the last word goes to UBW’s Hasselman who, quite rightly, concludes that “now that we can go deeper and stay longer, there is a whole new world waiting to be discovered.” So, dip your hand in your pocket, drop your sub in the water and re-live those long-forgotten Stingray fantasies. As Troy Tempest in the opening credits once proclaimed: “Anything could happen in the next half hour...” 99 Empire of the Senses P erfu m e house C reed has been m aking e x traordinary fragrances by hand for se v en generations . T he co m pany ’ s D N A is , l itera l ly, that of a long l ine of scent crafters , and owning a bott l e of C reed can be l ikened to owning a s l ice of o l factory history – with q ua l ity, q ua l ity, q ua l ity as the m antra . W R I T T E N BY F R A N Ç O I S O O S T H U I Z E N P R O D U C T P H OTO G R A P H Y BY K arn S a m an vorawong R OA d | B oo k EMPIRE OF THE SENSES Back to work, Erwin has most recently worked with his father on the redevelopment of Millésime Imperial, and also new in the Creed stable is Les Royales’ Exclusives, an ultra-exclusive collection of six male and female scents that come in an elegant handblown Pochet glass bottle etched with the brand’s crest – fragrance and art object in one. “At the moment I am also working on a very exciting new release that we hope to have ready before July,” he says, letting the cat out of the bag. According to Erwin, the prize of owning a bottle of Creed is not so much about elitism. Instead, it is the knowledge that each scent is made of the highest concentration of natural oils ever bottled. “A Creed perfume evolves over several hours, and our customers recognise it in the same way that one knows a Picasso when you see one,” he says. And it is this insider knowledge, far from mass market instant fragrance hits that, ultimately, make Creed users part of an exclusive circle. Erwin seems to have it all worked out – his future at Creed and the responsibilities that come with his role. In his private life, however, there’s a very important little detail he has yet to figure out. His search for a ‘better half ’ has proved less successful. “There’s no pressure on me yet to get married and produce children, but it is something I do see in my future. I really would like to ind the right woman for me. But the more I’ve searched, the less I’ve found…” At least that’s good news for his scores of female fans. “The house has produced more than 200 exclusive scents over the years, all original and handmade, containing the highest percentage of natural components in the French perfume industry.” A An impressive crowd of customers has gathered at Bangkok’s upscale Siam Paragon shopping mall. They’re all die-hard Creed fans, hoping to get a glimpse of the dashing and debonair 30-something Erwin Creed, the seventh-generation heir to one of the oldest family-owned businesses in the world and, indeed, one of the oldest perfumeries still in business. Better even, they’re counting on getting their own bottle of Creed signed by Erwin, whose official title is vice-president, or at the very least a photo opportunity with him to upload on their Facebook pages. Such is the scene wherever the eligible bachelor travels around the world to promote a new fragrance release – be it at Harrods in London or Neiman Marcus in New York – in between sourcing only the finest ingredients from suppliers far and wide; say, roses in Bulgaria and the most fragrant lemons from Italy. The Creed dynasty, evidently, is in good hands. A perfume legacy is set to continue. Founded in 1760 in London, the House of Creed became a favourite with the English Court, appointed by Queen Victoria as an official supplier. Word rapidly spread of Creed’s creations – recognised for their quality, refinement and originality – and soon Creed became the perfume of choice, too, of Napoléon III, Empress Eugénie, Francis-Joseph, Elizabeth of Austro-Hungaria and Christina of Spain. In 1854 the family-owned business relocated to Paris, and not much has changed since. Except perhaps, for Creed’s growing product line, and an enviable and exclusive clientele: Sir Winston Churchill, Audrey Hepburn, Cary Grant, John F. Kennedy, Madonna, Julia Roberts, Michelle Obama and the likes of wealthy Saudi princes. Prince Rainer of Monaco was one of Creed’s more recent monarch patrons, having commissioned a special perfume for his wife, former Hollywood actress Grace Kelly, for their wedding day. Fleurissimo, inspired by the scent of the princess’ wedding bouquet, went on to become one of Creed’s bestselling perfumes. The infusion technique used by the perfume house, now abandoned by modern industry, enables Olivier Creed, Master Perfumer and Erwin’s father, to preserve the originality of his fragrances. (Olivier is credited for classic creations like Green Irish Tweed, Millésime Imperial, Silver Mountain Water, Aventus and, more recently, Himalaya.) Among the infusions created by Creed are vanilla, civet, musk and ambergris. The components are weighed, mixed, macerated and filtered, all by hand in the same tradition of the founder, James Henry Creed. The house has produced more than 200 exclusive scents over the years, all original and handmade, containing the highest percentage of natural components in the French perfume industry. No factories, testing on animals or even market testing – just a continuation of exactly how things have been done for the past 253 years. All Creed fragrances are made in a single location, a workshop in the woods of Fontainebleau, France, by a staff of approximately 30 people who handle bottling by hand. And that’s what sets the House of Creed apart from the rest of its kind, together with the quiet luxury status it enjoys. Later, with the Siam Paragon promotion out of the way, and as we sit down for a chat at Erwin Creed’s plush suite at Bangkok’s Grand Hyatt Erawan over a glass of Champagne, I find him – rather surprisingly – somewhat shy and reserved. His accent is distinctly and charmingly French, his words chosen in a calculated manner. Groomed impeccably from head to toe, Erwin is the personification of the modern-day Creed user; he fits the shoes of Creed ambassador to the tee. And that image is of vital importance – not only to capture the hearts and the minds of a new generation of Creed user, but also to remain relevant in a complex, competitive consumer market. “Honestly,” he says, “I’m just a simple man who likes to preserve my private life. I love sport, perfume, good food, fine wines and doing business. We make great perfume from natural Above Creed’s bottles are distinctive yet understated. Opposite Erwin Creed is mobbed by adoring fans wherever he goes. 102 products, and yes, it’s expensive. But it’s a quality product and young people have a taste for luxe, too. So it’s great to see a younger Creed following nowadays.” Erwin reiterates that the quality of the ingredients used to create Creed fragrances is, above all, key to the brand’s success. “We don’t have a real marketing vision. Our success has relied on quality since the day [the House of ] Creed was formed – that’s the foundation of our brand, and it will always be like that. We are dependent on suppliers for the best quality ingredients, much like a chef preparing fine cuisine. If we don’t have the right ingredients, we can close our ‘restaurant’.” One day, when he takes over from his father as Master Perfumer, Erwin says, his most important objective will be to continue this tradition, and in the very same way. He had his first taste of the family business as an eight-year old boy, accompanying dad Olivier to the fragrance workshop. It is here he learned the secrets of the trade, and how to develop his own sense of smell – admitting now, many years later, that there is certainly a very strong connection between fragrance and memory. “I like it when I smell something that reminds me of my childhood.” Whether the ‘fragrance gene’ in the Creed family is a question of nature or nurture, Erwin admits that he had different childhood aspirations. “When I was young, I wanted to be a racing driver. But, as I grew older, the perfume industry and our family business became more interesting. The more I became involved [in it], the more I realised you can do a lot of things with it. It’s like my baby, and I want to treat it with care...” That’s not to say Erwin Creed is all business and no play. He did race cars at one time (as a hobby), but says that the kind of money required for that is just “ridiculous”. “These days, I still enjoy go-karting, but my big passion is skiing. Speed is like a drug, really, it’s very easy to get hooked. I love the sheer thrill and extreme sensation it provides,” he muses. 103 The Mighty McLaren W r i t t e n bY Richard Meaden P h oto g r a p h y bY M at t H ow e l l THE MIGHT Y McLAREN F 1 In 1992, McLaren launched its first road car, and the incredible F1 remains a benchmark for how hypercars should be built. We drive one of just 64 roadgoing F1s ever made, while we still can. L ooking back, it seems outrageous that the F1 was McLaren’s first attempt at a production car, such was its level of superiority over the established players, whose efforts it made an absolute mockery of. Then again, if you give a man like Gordon Murray a clean sheet of paper, and the freedom – both creative and financial – to involve the people he most respected, to clothe and power his creation (take a bow Peter Stevens and BMW Motorsport’s Paul Roche), great things are bound to happen. And happen they did. Its carbon fibre construction – then a world-first for a road car – might now seem like a basic supercar requirement, but so much of the McLaren F1 remains extraordinary. For starters, it looks so understated. Slim-hipped, shorn of drag-inducing embellishments and free from the complex addenda that brings unnecessary weight, time has done nothing to diminish the beauty of its functional form. Then there’s the three-seater configuration and central driving position. When you stand and stare at this low, narrow car, you simply cannot believe there’s room inside for three people, their luggage and a six-litre V12 engine. But there, clear as day, is the steering wheel and instrument binnacle, pushed 1 07 forwards into the heart of that bubble canopy windscreen, flanked as it is by two rear-set passenger seats. Even now, 21 years after its launch, it remains a most audacious piece of packaging. Press the glossy chrome door release button (the left-hand door, not the right, so you don’t have to clamber over the gearlever) and feel the gas strut immediately push the flyweight dihedral door skywards. Owners have been refining the best way to climb into the F1’s central driver’s seat for more than 20 years, but still there’s no easy means of ingress. It feels like you’re attempting some extreme yoga position, and it probably looks that way too. Nevertheless, once you’ve finally managed to thread your legs into the pedalbox, dropped your lucky posterior into the driver’s seat and reached out to grasp the simple, palmfilling steering wheel, you have to conclude that Murray’s central driving position was a stroke of genius. You can’t relax, though, for more potential humiliation lies in wait for the F1 novice. The ignition key – which is disappointingly humdrum – slots into a keep to your right, adjacent to the gearlever and a number of other mysterious buttons and latches. Turn it clockwise and the analogue dash comes to life, leaving you the awkward task of finding the starter button. It lurks R OA d | B oo k beneath a flip-up alloy flap that’s pleasingly reminiscent of a trigger guard from a fighter plane. Thumb this up and you’ll find a small red pip, which you press to fire the six-litre BMW Motorsport V12 into life. It quickly catches, after a shrill spin of the starter motor. Not for McLaren the vulgar bypass valve bellow of today’s supercars; instead, this V12 instantly settles to a muted simmer that’s discreet yet potent. As with all true supercars, you let the F1 sit and idle, watching mesmerised in the two rearview mirrors (yes, two) as vapour begins to curl from the tailpipes and heat percolates into the bones of the engine and gearbox. It’s a ritual steeped in respect and reverence, considerate foreplay before the main event. And it will be quite an event, for we’ve come to the world famous mountain roads of Snowdonia in north Wales; the grandest stage we could find within reasonable striking distance of the secure bunker this F1 calls home. Thanks to Ray Bellm and the F1 Owners Club, I’ve been loaned this precious car by a very relaxed and helpful owner, but still the responsibility of borrowing a car like this is onerous in the extreme. Insurance was the first hurdle. Value? $6 million. Followed quickly by having to find somewhere to store the car securely overnight. It really is like driving a four-wheeled Fabergé egg. By the time the trailer arrives at our hotel and the unloading process begins, a small crowd has gathered around the car. Most onlookers know what it is, but few know the joyous, nerdy factoids that have always made the F1 unique. Predictably, conversations centre on “how much?”, or “how fast?”, and I begin to feel a little sorry for the F1, emerging as it is into a postBugatti Veyron world. Nowadays, power is measured in hundredths of horsepower, 0-to-100 acceleration times begin with a two, gearshift times take milliseconds and boast-worthy top speeds have to be at least 400kph. Has the F1’s glory faded? On the most superficial of levels, yes. But Murray’s creation was never designed to titillate. It was – is – all about the cerebral numbers centred on drag, weight and, therefore, its power-toweight ratio. Get these right and the rest will follow. Just how right they are bears repeating, for they tell a tale of all-round performance that still cannot be beaten. Weighing just 1,137kg, the F1 is lighter than Central command position (left) and no-nonsense cockpit that seats three, is indicative of the F1's extraordinary driver focus Pagani’s or Koenigsegg’s most anorexic efforts and, despite the time-sapping shift speeds of its manual transmission, the F1’s standing start acceleration remains blistering, 100kph from rest arriving in 3.6 seconds, 160kph in just 6.4. The all-wheel drive, paddle-shift 1,200hp Veyron Super Sport steals a few tenths through superior traction, but then only gains a few more on the way to 160, despite having twice the power, almost three times the torque and the small matter of four turbochargers. The hardware required to generate that pace comes at a price. 800kg to be precise, and there’s no room for luggage and certainly not two passengers. It might be the fastest production car in the world, but the Veyron Super Sport is also the car that proves the Law of Diminishing Returns. 108 So the joy of the F1 is its cleverness and purity, but this uncompromising simplicity also dates it. It’s inconceivable that in, 2013, a manufacturer would build a 390kph supercar without power steering, traction control or even antilock brakes, yet Murray applied ruthless racecar logic to its design. That focus kept the evils of excess mass at bay, but when you’re sat in a now warmedthrough F1, and raindrops begin to patter on the windscreen, that refusal to compromise seems like the ultimate folly. To say your first few kilometres in an F1 on wet Welsh roads are circumspect, is something of an understatement. There’s no slack, no sensory filter nor numbing anaesthesia to the controls. It’s entirely down to you and all the sensitivity you can muster. The engine is incredibly responsive, the slim tacho needle leaping through its long, languid arc with every slight squeeze of the throttle. Such scant flywheel effect punishes a shaky left leg, so any mismatch of throttle and clutch leads to an embarrassing stall. When you finally pull away, the McLaren F1 comes alive. Just tickling the accelerator gives a hint of the epic induction noise to come, as cold air rushes into the V12’s throat via the snorkel intake running from the roof and curling down behind your back. At first it feels odd being sat in the middle of the car, but you soon relax and use the tops of the front wings to position the F1 and place it just-so. The steering has a directness and fluidity that restores some of your confidence, connecting you to the road by wriggling gently in your hands over cambers and white lines, but its weight increases significantly with lock. It’s a reassuring feeling, for it gives you something to ‘lean’ against and gauge the build-up of lateral loading, but it also suggests you would need to be extremely quick with any corrective lock, should the need arise. Like the clutch and throttle pedals, the brake pedal has a fabulous firmness but, as you push against, it the response feels a bit dead. It’s now I remember that, not only did Mr Murray shun ABS, but he also steered clear of servo assistance, meaning that mustering sufficient braking pressure is solely down to my left leg muscles. It’s no wonder the F1 makes you feel like you’re learning to drive again: there is no safety net, nothing to catch your fall. I ponder this as we rumble through Betws-y-Coed on our way to some of the best – and most challenging – driving roads in the UK. The bustling crowds of tourists provide some light relief because, when you’re driving a silly car, it’s always fun to scan the faces of onlookers to see how they react. And the F1 is no exception. Because it’s subtle, it passes most people by, but for those who know what they’re looking it’s akin to a religious experience. The need for photography is pressing so, despite the rain, we get to work. While Road Book’s regular photographer, Matt Howell, stands in the deluge, I’m tasked with driving up and down a mountain road, which is hardly a chore. After a few runs, I squeeze the throttle a little harder in second gear and immediately the rear tyres spin angrily. I’ve had closer calls than this, but still my heart thumps in my chest before a mixture of fear and relief is washed away by an unavoidable wave of adrenalin. Clearly this is not a car in which you take liberties when the road is wet. Mercifully, after stopping for a lunchtime coffee, we’re blessed with sunshine and dry tarmac. I have a particular road in mind for this afternoon’s driving – indeed, for THE MIGHT Y McLAREN F 1 months I’ve been imagining how the F1 might feel along it at speed (it takes a while to make these stories happen, you know), and now that very moment has arrived. Things in the F1 happen fast at 7,500rpm. The engine is otherworldly, at once smooth and savage, like double cream laced with broken glass, and so urgent that your senses can’t quite keep up with the way it builds its revs. There’s a rollercoaster quality to how 627hp and 649Nm of twist throw 1,138kg of car down the road. It’s instantaneous. No sense of gaining momentum or building speed, just a snap from, say 100kph to – ahem, rather more – in a lunge that leaves your senses fizzing. The F1’s throttle is connected to the engine by a cable, not today’s zero feel, flyby-wire technology. And it’s this, combined with the V12’s zero inertia and razor-sharp edge, that feels so magical. Every millimetre of travel elicits a linear, directly proportionate response from the engine, rather than the artificial response you get from a modern unit, with its throttle programmed to give more go earlier in the pedal’s travel. The F1 gives, and gives, and gives some more until the throttle hits the stop. The gearshift always requires concentration. At lower speeds – and especially when cold – it can feel a bit knotty. Even when you’re really going for it, you never just ram the lever through the gate. Instead you think it home. When you get it right, the shifts are sweet and super-quick but, in truth, they need to be, for the engine’s revs drop like a stone when you come off the throttle. The brakes also demand your full attention. The lack of ABS is much less of a concern in the dry, but there’s a tangible sense that the brakes are the McLaren F1’s weakness. The lack of servo assistance might give you absolute control over the modulation, but they also rely on you pushing hard enough and soon enough. That’s fine when you’re not going for it, but when you’re carrying the kind of speed the F1’s is capable of building between the corners, it’s all too easy to find yourself wanting a bit more retardation. The suspension is surprisingly compliant (another Murray hallmark) with decent travel and progression, yet the solid bushing ensures you know exactly what’s happening beneath you. There’s no rear anti-roll bar, which I thought might make the car feel a bit disconnected front to rear, but not only does it help with the ride quality, it also ensures you know how hard you’re working the rear end. I’m sure it would need more support on a racetrack, but it works on the road, which is the habitat it was conceived to dominate. Traction is strong in the dry, but you do get the occasional flare of revs under full throttle acceleration over bumps. There’s plenty of road holding, too, although thanks to the compliant suspension set-up, the calming effect of the unassisted steering and the chubby sidewalls of the bespoke Michelin tyres, there’s a softedged feel to the F1’s cornering behaviour that’s both effective and endearing. It doesn’t have the mechanical grip of a Pagani Zonda, and it certainly doesn’t have the physics-defying dynamics of McLaren’s new MP4-12C but, somehow, that doesn’t seem to matter, because the F1 experience is so organic, so generous. It’s 5pm. Our 24-hours of insurance cover has ended and, with it, my Cinderella moment. As the trailer door closes, I let out an involuntary sigh. Not just because it means this $6,000,000 unicorn is now someone else’s liability, but because this could be the last time I ever get to drive an F1. There’s something intoxicating about this McLaren that no other car can replicate. Once you’ve experienced it, immersed yourself in the process of driving it, surrounded yourself with that animalistic induction roar, felt your heart thump as you depress the throttle pedal to its stop, then wiped the perspiration from your clammy palms, you know your life will never quite be the same again. “The engine is otherworldly, at once smooth and savage, like double cream laced with broken glass” 113 CLASS ASSET In a world where investment seems to have become a dirty word, the right classic car can make a healthy return on a relatively risk-free purchase. W R I T T E N BY K e v in H ac kett I M ag e s C O U R T E S Y O F R M AU C T I O N S R OA d | B oo k C L A S S ass e t Left Unloved in its early life, Ferrari’s impossibly beautiful 246 Dino now commands healthy premiums but buyers need to look out for poor restoration jobs. Right A proper, original or restored Dino should be entirely bereft of Ferrari badges, as this stunning US-spec model sold by RM Auctions is. Enzo felt that any road car with a V6 engine was undeserving of the name. I am, by nature, a hoarder. Every now and then I have to discipline myself to clear out all the detritus I’ve managed to collect; old magazines, brochures, receipts and memorabilia. But some things are sacrosanct, much to the chagrin of my wife. There’s no way, for instance, that I’ll ever get rid of the car magazines and brochures I collected when I was growing up, often a decade before I was legally entitled to drive. Last weekend I purged my cupboards of all unnecessary junk – always a therapeutic exercise. But I took longer than is normally the case because I was distracted from the task in hand by opening up some of my old magazines and scanning some of the classified adverts within. And what I found was startling. Let’s take an issue of the wonderful Supercar Classics magazine from 1984. Beneath the closing words of a feature on Lord Brocket’s collection of classic Ferraris (in 1996 he was sentenced to five years in prison for insurance fraud with the very same cars), is a half page advert for a dealer in Yorkshire, UK. What caught my eye was a 12-year old Ferrari Dino. “A rare opportunity to acquire probably the finest 246 on offer” it said. The asking price was £18,250, so it was hardly loose change. However, a feature on the Dino published in the same title in March 1989 – just five years later – mentioned that the going price for a really good one was, wait for it, £100,000. In other words, the market for interesting classic cars had rocketed skywards. That diminutive Ferrari had appreciated in value by more than 400 per cent in five years and, by the late 1980s, even ropey examples were changing hands for huge prices. “Designers enjoyed more freedom to express themselves, often resulting in beautiful, outlandish shapes that would be impossible to legalise in these stricter times.” 116 It was nuts, and enthusiasts felt robbed by investors who viewed classic cars as nothing more than four-wheeled profit machines. Anyone who had saved for years to buy the car of their dreams suddenly found themselves unable to afford them. As they say, what goes up must come down. It’s as true in the world of financial transactions as it is in anything and, while speculators around the world thought there was no end in sight for the huge demand for property during the boom years, that upward trajectory, when it started to freefall, caught practically everyone by surprise. Rather than sink money into bricks and mortar or stocks and shares, however, many are once again turning to buying the right cars at the right time and, crucially, knowing when to sell them on. Luxury can be interpreted in many ways. For some of us, it’s the ability to wake up every morning and not be stressed about bills or bad weather. For others it could be taking a holiday when and wherever you like, for however long you like. For others still, it’s being able to open a garage door and drink in the gorgeous lines of a rare thoroughbred sports or luxury car. No different to possessing a piece of art, whether it’s a sculpture, painting, photograph or original piece of sheet music penned by Mozart himself, owning a rare car can be a most joyous experience. The appeal is obvious. As cars have, in modern times, become more or less the same in order to appease legislators, many are nothing more than amorphous, androgynous blobs on wheels. Safer and more economical than ever, most are quite dull to look at and to drive. Yet, looking back three decades or more, things were very different – designers enjoyed more freedom to express themselves, often resulting in beautiful, outlandish shapes that would be impossible to legalise in these stricter times. Owning a rare or classic car marks you out as an individual, separate from the masses, and that is always going to be a desirable trait. 117 R OA d | B oo k But there can be a lot more to it than that because, if you buy the right wheels, you could make a tidy profit when it comes to selling them on to a future owner – something you couldn’t say about the vast majority of new cars on sale today. That isn’t to say that a new car couldn’t make money. Take the Audi R8, for instance. When that car was first launched, the world went into a bit of a frenzy – everyone wanted one, yet initially they were in short supply and owners of the first batch of R8s were able to sell their cars for 30 per cent more than they’d paid for them. Six years on, however, and you can pick up those same cars for half the new price because there are plenty out there to choose from – the rules of supply and demand can work for or against anybody. This R8-type phenomenon rarely occurs but new cars that are built in strictly limited numbers will always be a safe bet. The Bugatti Veyron, for instance, is suffering depreciation at the moment because, if your pockets are deep enough, you can still place an order for a new one. Soon, though, the order book will close and production will cease; and when that happens, the values of the 450 cars made will undoubtedly start creeping upwards. Aston Martin’s One-77, of which, as its name suggests, only 77 examples were hand made, will no doubt enjoy the same resurgence. In the boom years of the late 1980s, desirable cars were being bought and sold with alarming speed, often hiding some real horror stories after rushed ‘restoration’ jobs to make them look nice. A Ferrari specialist I know is still seeing cars that bear the scars of this haphazard treatment. “A client approached me to inspect a Dino 246 he was interested in buying,” he recently told me. “When we started to delve into its history, it had changed hands frequently in the late 80s but on the surface it appeared decent enough. Once we examined the chassis, however, we could see where areas of corrosion had been ‘repaired’ using Coke cans! That car needed more than the asking price spending on it to make it good again, so our advice was to walk away.” It’s just one example of greed getting the better of people who are out to make a quick buck at the expense of others but it would appear that, at least when it comes to classic cars, serious lessons have been learned. When the economy nosedived in the early 1990s, cars that had skyrocketed in value in the late 1980s were suddenly found languishing in the classified ads of newspapers, their asking prices a fraction of what they had been when the going was good, and the market was, once again, one for serious collectors and enthusiasts. It’s taken 20-odd years but those asking prices have started to recover to the point they once were, and there are many factors influencing this state of affairs. Most of the car manufacturers whose models were sought after in that time, are still in business but these days are much more prolific in their output. Aston Martin, for instance, was only making a handful of cars every year in the early 90s but is now producing almost 5,000 annually. Ferrari, Lamborghini, Bentley, Porsche – they’re all making far more cars now than ever, meaning two things: the current cars are unlikely to make money for owners, and the increased worldwide exposure to the brands means that the older, much rarer models, are again in demand. The same rules as before apply, however, meaning provenance and rarity are important factors. But something as simple as an anniversary can have a massive impact on residual values, as demonstrated by Jaguar’s ill-fated XJ 220 supercar. A good friend of mine bought one early last year for a not insignificant sum. 2012, however, was that car’s twentieth anniversary, which resulted in some long overdue media coverage, which, in turn, got the market interested again. Now, just months after buying his rare Jag (only 281 were ever built), you’d be hard pressed to find a good one for less than twice that amount he paid. Certain brands will forever be collectible but you need to be careful about the model you go for. Rarity is always good, so the lower the build number the better. Going back to Ferrari, one model the company has never been able to top, at least when it comes to external design, is 118 C L A S S ass e t American classics, such as this fastback Ford Mustang, are steadily rising in value thanks to the power of nostalgia and the car’s place in cinema history. “When the economy nosedived in the early 1990s, cars that had skyrocketed in value in the late 80s were suddenly found languishing in the classified ads of newspapers, their asking prices a fraction of what they had been when the going was good.” 119 R OA d | B oo k C L A S S ass e t “One need only look through the catalogues of auction houses such as RM Auctions, who are consistently setting new sales records for prices fetched. These precious machines can bring their owners just as much happiness as a Rembrandt.” 120 121 R OA d | B oo k C L A S S ass e t A timeless Jaguar E-Type, sold by RM Auctions. They’re not exactly rare but the new F-Type’s arrival may well result in a spike in worldwide demand for well-preserved or restored examples. “In the boom years of the late 1980s, desirable cars were being bought and sold with alarming speed, often hiding some real horror stories after rushed ‘restoration’ jobs to make them look nice.” the exquisite 308, as well as its 328 successor. As close to automotive sculpture as is possible, almost 20,000 were sold between 1975 and 1989, so they’re fairly common. As a result, values have been stagnant over the years and relatively little money will still bag you a pristine example. Tempting, but as an investment not the soundest choice. Far better to go for the almost-as-gorgeous 512 Berlinetta Boxer. With lower production numbers (to the tune of one twentieth), undoubtedly the Boxer’s time is nigh. Right now you can procure a mint example for less than a brand new 458 Italia but the market is waking up and soon they’ll be out of reach for all but the wealthiest collectors. It’s a similar tale for one of the Boxer’s rivals in the 1980s; the legendary Porsche 930. More commonly known as the early 911 Turbo, in the past five years prices have doubled John Hawkins is the garrulous boss of a Porsche dealership, Specialist Cars of Malton in the UK; the company consistently has a mouth-watering selection of classic Porsches on offer and its customer base is hugely varied. “The early air-cooled Porsches are always a safe bet,” he says, “especially anything that was produced in limited numbers, like RS models.” He says there’s huge interest and demand for rare Porsches in Southeast Asia, an area where many of these older cars were never available when new. “Thailand, Hong Kong, everywhere. They’re snapping up what they deem to be ‘real’ Porsches, for instance we recently sold five 964 RSs to Asian customers, one of which went for £120,000.” Five years ago, half that amount would have netted one of the very best and Hawkins agrees that the famed 930 represents a sound investment, even now that prices have doubled. “When Porsche started building water-cooled cars, the fate of the earlier models was sealed and they’ll only ever go up in value.” 122 But what does he think will happen to the ubiquitous modern Porsches? “There’s no way we’ll ever see Cayennes or the like increase in price,” he sighs. “In fact I paid £6,000 for one a couple of weeks ago. There’s just too many of them but, when it comes to modern Porsches, I can see values of limited production models heading north, like the 996 GT3 RS. We recently sold a 4.0L GT3 RS to a customer in Hong Kong, at almost twice its new price.” It isn’t just European prestige brands that are seeing a resurgence, either. Just try finding a 1960s Mustang Fastback – you’ll be looking at huge prices, even for tatty examples and American muscle cars, in general, are becoming more and more expensive. There’s a good reason for this, too. There are plenty of people who were children when these cars were movie stars and now that they’re old enough and solvent enough, buying and running them is a way of keeping the past present. Never underestimate the power of nostalgia when it comes to the automobile. Like property, paintings or sculptures, classic cars are often works of art that happen to be mobile. One need only look through the catalogues of auction houses such as RM Auctions, who are consistently setting new sales records for prices fetched – some of the metal that goes under its hammer is impossibly beautiful. And these precious machines can bring their owners just as much happiness, as a Rembrandt, simply by being able to look at them and, on the odd occasion, drive them on some of the greatest roads in the world – and that includes our very own region. That these cars will always, from this point on, be worth at least what you paid for them, is simply the icing on the cake. 123 h igh road to m o r o cco wr itten by b en sa muelson PHOTOGRAPHY by Matt Howell R OA d | B oo k I don’t think any of us had felt more conspicuous in our entire lives. Far above us, soldiers menacingly looked down from the top of a cliff, while all around was a traffic jam consisting almost exclusively of battered cars from the early 1980s. In front were dozens of CCTV cameras, guarded by yet more seriouslooking soldiers. And then there were the three of us: regular Road Book photographer, Matt Howell, my colleague Martin, and me, inside 12.8-metres of the shiniest, most expensive British-registered aluminium imaginable. If we’d been dressed as Beefeaters and been driving the Queen’s Bentley, we could hardly have stood out more. We crawled forwards, the silence of the car’s engine and the effectiveness of its double-glazing making the scene outside feel even more surreal. With a curt nod and wave of the hand, we were ushered a few metres forward, out of the last outpost of the EU, and into a world as foreign as any of us had ever seen; straight into the pure chaos of Africa. Hundreds of bystanders aimlessly milled around, either in hooded Moroccan robes or grandiose uniforms, and it was suddenly bright, dusty, dirty and even more intimidating. One of the men in djellaba robes confidently knocked on the window. He had photo ID hanging from his neck but, as far we could tell, it could have be his proof of membership of the Tangiers branch of Blockbuster. He was quite insistent and, rather than create a scene, I opened the window to find out what he wanted. Mohammed introduced himself in heavily accented English, to which I replied in even more heavily accented schoolboy French. Immediately the smile left Mohammed’s face. “Morocco, sir, is an Arab country, and here we speak Arabic, not French.” Pretty quickly it became clear it was Mohammed who could help us clear customs. And Martin, who had battled Russian and Ukrainian customs posts on past trips, produced a folder of such colour coordinated, alphabetised magnificence, that Mohammed decided it would only take him an hour or two to get us through. Easy. Just as he said this, a full-blown fight broke out in front of us, as an elderly Renault screeched to a halt, wheelspun madly towards us and eventually came to a rest buried among a heap of rubbish. Mohammed dashed off to see whether there was a better profit opportunity beckoning but, as he explained on his return, it was only a Frenchman who was trying to bring in a handgun without the correct permits. As you do. As Martin and I nervously queued, Matt messaged his wife explaining that he had “locked himself in the car while the other two are off bribing the officials.” They do say never to leave your photographer unattended, and the wisdom of this was reinforced as we arrived back at the car to find a very cross-looking Moroccan soldier, in a uniform rather more serious than any we had already seen, waving his gun at our slightly alarmed photographer. It transpired that, thinking he ought to capture the mayhem we had suddenly found ourselves in, Matt had got into trouble as this chap felt rather strongly that people shouldn’t just barge into his country and photograph confidential military installations. Which is fair enough, really. Rather than have his camera confiscated, get arrested or possibly even shot, Matt frantically started deleting as our friend Mohammed pleaded our case to the soldier. Pretty soon we were moving, picking our way out of that hellish place and into the traffic on the next, and most exciting stage of our adventure to the Atlas Mountains, pulling the world’s smartest caravan with the world’s smartest tow car. 126 “If we’d been dressed as Beefeaters and been driving the Queen’s Bentley, we could hardly have stood out more” “If you’re going to make a mad dash across one continent and into another, I can’t think of anything better to do it with than an Airstream” The whole thing had started a few months earlier, when we found out from the people at Land Rover that they would be launching their new flagship in Morocco. We already knew that the old Range Rover was pretty good at towing, but wouldn’t it be amazing to find out what the new one was like, by pulling an Airstream over there? Over time, this morphed into an arrangement that, providing we let them use the trailer for a couple of days of the launch, the Land Rover chaps were delighted to help with. We’d set off only five days earlier, picking up an Airstream International 684 from Airstream’s European factory in a typically rain-lashed Lake District in the UK. Anyone who has any interest in the history of transportation knows what an Airstream is – but not many know that, for the past few years, Europeanspecification models have been designed and built just behind the M6 motorway’s Tebay services. The 684 is the top-of-the-range. On the outside, it’s classic Airstream – acres of sleek aluminium – really given away only by its modern alloy wheels. ‘Icon’ is an over-used word, but consider the following: there’s an Airstream in New York’s Museum of Modern Art, JFK had one as a campaign office, and NASA used one as the quarantine facility for returning moon astronauts in case they’d caught some sort of lunar flu. The list of stars that own them is as long as an Oscars’ acceptance speech, too. On the inside, the Airstream is like a boutique hotel on wheels: modern, all red leather, Corian worktops and flat screen TVs and, despite the fact that you can now buy an even bigger one (2.5 metres wide to our 2.3), it’s very spacious. There’s a proper double bed at the back, with plenty of storage space, a good-sized wet room with a cool, stainless steel sink, a galley with more than enough kit to keep a big group fed, and a dining table and sofas that convert to another double bed at the front. If you’re going to make a mad dash across one continent and into another, I can’t think of anything better to do it with than an Airstream – and, in particular, with the new Range Rover up front. With customer deliveries having only recently begun, only the keenest car-spotters will have seen one on the road as yet, but it’s unmistakably a Range Rover, albeit more modern and more luxurious than ever. With an Airstream hitched to its electrically deployable tow bar, it looks incredible. The first leg of our journey took us down the slightly less exotic M6 motorway to Solihull, and to the factory where yet another 800 people have just been taken on to build this new car. Now owned by the enormous Tata conglomerate, Jaguar Land Rover has been one of the great British success stories over the past few years. Its Solihull factory has a busy, confident air, and is proof that the British car industry is very much alive and well. From Solihull, a wet slog followed down the M40 motorway to Portsmouth. At a cruising speed, the Range Rover’s mighty V8 engine was just ticking over at barely more than 1,000rpm and, despite the fact our outfit weighed some five tonnes, we had yet to experience a hill that caused it to change down a gear to maintain speed. Quite genuinely, the only criticism so far was that it towed so effortlessly we almost forgot we had anything behind us. R OA d | B oo k We’d chosen to take the ferry to Santander in northern Spain, as it cuts 2,400 kilometres from the return trip, and anyway it was the parts of the voyage further south that excited us. The ferry itself is a rather civilised way to start the journey, too, with decent restaurants onboard, perfectly acceptable cabins, wireless internet and phone coverage. After two nights and 33 hours onboard, though, we were more than ready to set off from Santander to pick up photographer Matt from Bilbao Airport. What we weren’t ready for, was the beauty of that stretch of coast. With Matt onboard, we headed up into the mountains for our first photo stop: the Marqués de Riscal winery and hotel – a stunning Frank Gehry-designed building, whose own use of aluminium is famous the world over. As the new Range Rover is also manufactured from aluminium (as is the body shell of the Airstream), it seemed like a rather appropriate spot for our first photo shoot. As the sun set over a bottle of Rioja, we discussed how we’d be in Morocco in just 36 hours’ time, and passing back through northern Spain in just six days. The first night in the trailer was at Camping Fuentes Blancas, in Burgos, where we arrived in the pitch black and freezing cold. While Matt worked his magic with camera, flash bulbs and car headlights, we hooked up to the mains, plugged in our water systems and got the heating going before disappearing for more food and wine. Before dawn, we were on the road again, a mere 900 kilometres to cover in order to reach our next overnight halt. The fabulous Spanish motorways are the perfect environment for the Range Rover. Huge distances passed effortlessly, in utter comfort and luxury with the amount of engine, road and wind noise at towing speeds being virtually imperceptible. The ride is phenomenal, too, with an ability to cope with h i g h roa d to m oro c c o bridge expansion joints that wheels that size and air suspension shouldn’t possess. As we reached altitudes more than 1,000 metres above sea level, the big Rangie finally seemed to show a sign of weakness, as it failed to maintain the speed set on the cruise control during a particularly long, steep drag. While mentally writing a slightly patronising sentence about the incident, I thought I’d see what happened if I overrode the cruise control and pushed the throttle to the floor. Blimey. Five tonnes shot forward like a sports car, with no let up of acceleration before good sense and an unwillingness to spend time in a Spanish prison caused me to back off. Side winds became apparent as we sailed down the other side. You could see where trucks had actually been blown over and occasionally you’d feel a bit of buffeting, but the Range Rover’s Trailer Stability Assist actually brakes its own wheels individually, to eliminate any snaking before it can even begin. We arrived at our second campsite after dark again, but to our mounting excitement, we realised we could see the lights of Africa across the narrow Straits of Gibraltar. We took the short ferry trip across them a few hours later and, as we arrived on the African continent, the sun was shining. Ceuta is a fascinating little place, yet the most memorable thing about it was undoubtedly the border crossing – the other side of which lies Morocco. As we climbed up through the hills, the elation of surviving our adventure in the customs post, mingled with the excitement of driving on African roads, began to hit home. And we picked our way through some truly beautiful mountain vistas for an hour or so, enjoying the double takes our amazing rig caused at every turn. Those first Moroccan roads weren’t in great order but were probably no worse 130 131 R OA d | B oo k h i g h roa d to m oro c c o As we drove down through northern Morocco, the terrain looked more like Northern Italy, albeit with camels grazing, rather than cattle. We decided to skirt the narrow streets of Rabat because of our tight schedule and kept going to Camping Ocean Bleu a, beachside site in Mohammedia, just outside Casablanca. We got chatting to some of our neighbours in the campsite, including a Cornish couple with a baby, who were heading south in their 4x4 motorhome, seeing where the road took them. Another Brit, Mark, pitched his tent nearby after riding in on his battered old MZ motorbike, which he’d bought for £100 before setting off on this trip to the Sahara and back. The following morning, we made him a cup of proper tea and fed him Marmite on toast to give him a taste of home. As he packed away his tent, while I read The Times on my iPad, I felt a bit of a fraud. By contrast, when I checked out the campsite’s lavatories, I was extremely pleased we’d brought our own! Not long after setting off for Marrakech the following day, the landscape became much more spectacular. Although we were still making good time on the toll motorway (too expensive for the locals to use and very quiet as a result), we climbed through some hills and all of a sudden the terrain and the architecture changed. than many British ones during the winter months. As we dropped down past the huge new container port at Tangier Med, we joined the motorway, following the signs towards Rabat and Casablanca. We stopped at the first motorway services, mindful of the fact you can’t bring any of the local currency into the country and that we were on a toll road. The services were surprisingly smart, tidy and clean and the fuel was very cheap. Rather less pleasingly, the cashpoint wasn’t working but, by sheer chance (or not) we discovered the man at the petrol pumps not only spoke French (like virtually everyone else we met in Morocco, despite Mohammed’s warnings) but would happily change some Euros for Dirhams. The fact he’d probably just unplugged the cashpoint was an example of the way moneymaking schemes work in some parts of Africa. Before we left, we chatted to the driver of a Geneva-registered Pinzgauer, which looked (and had sounded as we passed it on the motorway) about as uncomfortable a means of transportation as could be imagined. The driver was only too happy to explain, in a splendidly cut-glass accent, that he was a doctor on his way down to Malawi. We felt a little wimpish, with our heated, cooled, massaging seats, the most comfortable headrests in automotive history, and the luxuries of the Airstream behind us. Houses were built from bricks made out of the local red mud, and lonely shepherds tended small flocks of sheep. As we dropped down towards Marrakech, it became sandy and rocky. This was it. This was what we had come to see. Our destination was Land Rover’s temporary headquarters at the racetrack just south of Marrakech’s centre – an alarming place to navigate, indeed. Taxis tried to get into the gap between car and trailer, mopeds piled high with full families and a week’s shopping dived down our inside and it was a particularly stressful ten minutes before we were safe in the Land Rover bubble, where the calm, immensely-competent men from the Midlands took the rig to be prepped overnight for the following days’ photography shoots. We set out for our first location – the ancient city walls adjacent to the royal palace – early the next morning. As the sun rose, we even got into the middle of the Jemaa el-Fnaa, the famous square that forms the historical heart of the city, which might be a first for a car and caravan. But, before it got too crowded, we headed out of town and up into the Atlas Mountains, which vertiginously rise some 32 kilometres south of Marrakech. We made our way up ever-steeper mountain roads, and the character of the people and the terrain changed. Here the locals gave a grave nod of great dignity as we drove past, something we had to do ever more slowly as the road got narrower, the hairpins tighter and the drops at either side more precipitous. And then we were at the top – in Oukaïmeden, at an altitude of 2,700 metres. Apart from its small military base, this place is best known for its skiing. While it hardly resembles the well-groomed pistes of Courchevel, where you definitely can’t get a donkey to carry you and your skis to the top, we were able to sit down to a magnificent breakfast in a pine chalet of astonishing Alpine authenticity. Refuelled, we then drove back down the mountain 134 and, by lunchtime, were in the middle of the desert. Morocco is nothing if not a country of contrasts. We wanted to get a photograph of the trailer next to a traditional farmstead – what I had taken to calling our ‘Millennium Falcon in Tatooine’ shot – and so, eventually, we took to a track and headed out towards a place set right on its own in the middle of the desert. As we came to a respectful halt 100 metres away, a young man in a djebella walked over – the first Moroccan we’d met that spoke absolutely no French. After lots of smiles, hand gestures and pointing at Matt’s camera, he agreed to us using the setting and sat down to watch us prepare with absolute fascination. In between dashing about like idiots to get the best of the light, we made him a cup of English tea and parted firm friends, despite not having understood a word each other had said. We headed back to the city in the dark - not something even Land Rover’s ex-military security advisers were doing if they could possibly avoid it, owing to totally unlit donkey carts and potholes the size of Volkswagens – having finally got all the pictures to document this mammoth trip. As we pointed the Range Rover north the following day, for an even more intense return leg, we realised how very doable this trip actually is, if you had just a couple of weeks on your hands and a true spirit of adventure. Just one thing, though, if you want to do it in real style, make sure you do it in a Range Rover with an Airstream behind it. That way you’ll be prepared for almost any eventuality. 135 vertu phones WRITTEN BY J o n at h a n de Nardis At lo n g l a s t, t h e wo r l d ’ s l e a d in g lu x u ry m o bi l e p h o ne m a k er h a s t h e te c h n o lo g y to m atc h t h e s ty l e . Meet t h e V ert u T I . 137 R OA d | B oo k I In the rarefied world of supremely luxurious goods, one relatively new company has doggedly stuck fast to its principles and struck a chord with a discerning marketplace that has come to view the mobile phone as much more than simply a device for speaking, messaging or surfing the world wide web. For Vertu, the mobile phone is a device that should be as desirable as a handmade Swiss timepiece or a Chanel handbag, something one should aspire to possessing in a sea of Apple white and Samsung black sameness. The British company’s latest handset, the TI, is indeed a thing of beauty. It isn’t the thinnest mobile phone, nor is it the lightest. In fact the TI is decidedly weighty and has substantial dimensions, quite at odds with the trend elsewhere for making everything more slender and fragile. Comparing the TI with practically any other new handset is as futile as judging a Volkswagen Polo with a Bentley Mulsanne – the thing positively reeks of handcrafted engineering brilliance. Vertu was founded in 1998, as a division of mobile phone giant, Nokia, with the notion that, if you don’t mind spending tens of thousands of dollars on a watch, why not on a telephone? And, against the odds and the naysayers, that gamble paid off. A Vertu isn’t for everyone, obviously, but therein lies the secret of the company’s success, and despite it lagging behind the established players in the mobile phone market with its outdated technologies, owners have seen past that and embraced what is known the world over as one of the most luxurious status symbols there is. And now modern technology has finally found its way inside these handcrafted handsets, with the TI. Steve Amstutz is Vertu’s Global Commercial Director, and has been with the company since late 2009, coming from what he perceives as Vertu’s only real rival, TAG Heuer, where for two years he was responsible for the worldwide distribution and marketing strategy for that brand’s own mobile communications devices. In the ten years before joining TAG Heuer, he was heavily involved with Swatch Group, so it’s fair to say he knows a thing or two about luxury goods and he guides me through a quick history of Vertu before introducing me to the TI. “It all started in the late 1990s,” he says, “with an idea that was brought to the attention of Nokia’s head of design – the man responsible for the look and feel of all those millions of phones that were in use at the time. The thinking was, ‘why not create an exceptional phone for exceptional people?’ and, with the same thought process that men, in particular, are very much into sports cars and fine watches. In 2002, the company launched its Signature phone, and that is still in our portfolio today. It’s an iconic product.” He goes on to say that, when Vertu was just getting into its stride, Nokia had a 40 per cent share in the mobile phone market, so the technology inside Vertu’s handsets was certainly contemporary. “But then Blackberry came along, initially only in the US and Canada, and that started a massive change in the way people used their mobiles.” Slowly but surely, however, the concept behind Vertu was embraced by markets such as the US, Europe, the Middle East vertu phones 01 04 02 “Comparing the TI with practically any other new handset is as futile as judging a Volkswagen Polo against a Bentley Mulsanne – the thing positively reeks of handcrafted engineering brilliance.” 03 01 The back of the TI incorporates an eight-megapixel camera and a removable panel that covers the signature of the craftsperson who made it by hand. 02 Push this button to access Vertu’s unique Concierge services. 03 Exposed screw heads simply add to the overall manliness of the new Vertu handset. 04 The sapphire crystal glass screen is also the user’s interface and it’s so tough that only a diamond can scratch its surface. Extremely strong case is fashioned from titanium but the TI still feels quite weighty. 138 139 Left Optional alligator leather trim complements the metal accents superbly, while the Android technology within allows users to access countless thousands of apps. “Understated elegance is now part of the company’s future and that is perfectly encapsulated with the TI.” and then China. Southeast Asia, the Pacific Rim, they all came on board and it was going very well for Vertu. “Then the iPhone came to market,” he adds, “and nobody really saw that coming, not even Nokia’s directors. The iPhone changed the market overnight, with its touch screen and Vertu had to reinvent itself from voice-centric devices into this new world of smartphones. “And we did deliver our first smartphone in 2010, with a full ‘qwerty’ keypad, which was, for us, a steep learning curve due to the incredible complexities of their technologies. At the end of the day, a smartphone is basically a handheld computer you can talk to other with.” A year later, Vertu launched its first touch screen smartphone, the Constellation T. “Even in the first part of this year, 58 per cent of Vertu’s sales were for that model, the rest being the voice-centric models. But our technology, even in our smartphones, had started to lag behind and we needed to make a big change,” he admits. “This change was activated by the company changing ownership. In 2012, Nokia sold Vertu to a private equity firm, EQT, the largest of its kind in northern Europe. And what this brought to Vertu was total freedom when it came to the technology we used inside our handsets.” The technology that Vertu decided to embrace last year was Android, which has a 69 per cent market share when it comes to the platform used by smartphones worldwide. “So we’ve gone from Symbian technology, which had less than five per cent market share, to being in the majority, and that is bringing us huge opportunities when it comes to offering our customers the widest possible choice of applications.” Amstutz claims that Vertu enjoys a 95 per cent share of the luxury mobile handset market, so which brands does he see as being in the remaining five per cent? “TAG Heuer has its fourth handset now, and they very much believe in the power of design and engineering. There’s Dior, too, which has launched two phones and Versace has made an attempt, too. Then there’s Swiss company, Celsius, who mix watchmaking technology into the phone, even including a tourbillion. This is not the way we do things. Technology, services, design and materials – Vertu owns the land.” He admits that Vertu could be perceived as having established itself by appealing to a customer base that has “more ostentatious tastes”, but claims that understated design is now part of the company’s future. And that is perfectly encapsulated with the TI. “It’s not show off, it’s just a beautiful design that has been handcrafted from the finest materials, and this is where we see growth.” Whipping out a Signature model, the design of which has hardly changed at all in ten years, the cues are evident in the TI, and there’s nothing at all wrong with that – it’s a beautiful thing to look at and to hold. Based around a titanium case that has been used for its strength, elegance and low weight, it also uses leather accents, has the largest sapphire crystal screen ever engineered and lots of masculine-looking exposed watch screws. “The sapphire crystal renders the screen virtually scratch proof and it’s tested to be four times stronger than other smart phones in terms of impact resistance,” says Amstutz as he carefully wipes it with a polishing cloth. “The titanium case is around five times stronger than other smart phones, deforming less than 1mm when a 500Nm force is applied.” The TI is powered by the Android 4.0 ‘Ice Cream Sandwich’ operating system, and is fitted with a 1.7 GH z processor, resulting in an intuitive and highly reactive user experience. Other features include an eight megapixel rear camera with auto focus and twin LED flash, a 1.3 MP front facing Skype compliant camera, 64 GB of internal memory and secure near field communication technology. Another example of Vertu’s continued commitment to superior craftsmanship and engineering is, says Amstutz, the new handset’s audio ability. Its 11 x 15 mm rectangular drivers are acoustically integrated into the ‘chassis’ to maximise frequency response and level. The result is, he assures me, an “unrivalled symphonic sound from the phone’s own stereo speakers. They’re Bang and Olufsen certified”. And then there is Vertu’s partypiece, the ‘Vertu key’, which provides instant access to a curated world of benefits and services available via a global team of professionals to clients wherever they may be, 24 hours a day, seven days a week. These services include Vertu Certainty, which helps protect the device, its data and, where necessary, the customer. Vertu Life – tailored information, articles and benefits – sits alongside the already famous ‘Concierge Service’. “If you have a Vertu device, you’re guaranteed the best seats in town.” The TI means that our customers can leave the house in the morning with just this phone in their pocket or bag, without the need for any other device,” he adds while slipping the black crocodile skin-covered phone back into its protective sheath. It certainly makes Vertu’s handsets more relevant than ever, especially when one considers the sheer speed at which this kind of technology moves. But even if the company had resolutely carried on with the Nokia technology of old, it could probably have made it for a few years yet. The continuing sales of its older (essentially outmoded) handsets is proof of that. For some people, a phone is still just a phone but, at last, Vertu is also able to appeal to the tech geek that exists inside a great many of us. R OA d | B oo k SPY WATCH “There was also a bulky gold wristwatch on a well-used brown crocodile strap. It was a Girard-Perregaux model designed for people who like gadgets, and it had a sweep second-hand and two little windows in the face to tell the day of the month, and the month, and the phase of the moon... the story it now told was 2.30 on June 10 with the moon three-quarters full.” S So wrote Ian Fleming in the opening to his 1957 James Bond novel From Russia With Love, regarded by many as the greatest of all the 007 adventures. That Girard-Perregaux wristwatch, so carefully described, was the property of one Donovan Grant, aka ‘red’ Grant, code-name ‘Granit,’ the bastard son of a Germanweightlifter and a southern Irish waitress who, having joined the communists in Cold War Russia, worked his way up through the ranks to become the ruthless chief executioner of SMERSH, the Soviet assassination agency. Like Bond, Fleming had been a naval commander and, like Bond, he appreciated the finer things in life, among which he counted prestigious motorcars – such as the bespoke Bentley he gave Bond for ‘everyday use’ and the Aston Martin DBIII, which the agent selected from the ‘pool’ at headquarters for a thrilling chase across France in the novel Goldfinger. Then there were the Turkish blend cigarettes, the Dunhill lighters, the Savile Row suits and, of course, the quality wristwatches. The detailed description of the Girard-Perregaux is designed to tell us as much about the owner as it is about the watch: as Fleming earlier states, it was a typical membership badge of ‘the rich man’s club,’ but there is an intimation that Donovan Grant wore it for all the wrong reasons – namely because it looked flashy and had plenty of gadgets. By the time From Russia With Love hit the big screen in 1963, however, Grant’s ostentatious yet innocuous watch had been transformed into a lethal weapon – a timepiece which concealed a garroting wire intended for use on Bond. In the event, of course, 1 42 R OA d | B oo k 007 turned the tables and used it on his attacker with fatal results. (That watch briefly reappears, incidentally, in the 1969 film of On Her Majesty’s Secret Service, being handled by George Lazenby). Yet Fleming, always prepared to extend the bounds of probability but never one to indulge in the fantastical, was far more conservative in his use of gadgets in his books than were the props departments in the films, which is why the most unusual thing Bond’s Rolex Submariner ever did in the novels was to kill an enemy guard when 007 wrapped it around his fist to use as a knuckle duster in chapter 16 of On Her Majesty’s Secret Service, smashing the crystal in the process. But when Bond's Aston Martin DB5 with its ejector seat, rocket launchers and revolving number plates became almost as much a star of the 1964 film Goldfinger as Sean Connery (who was equipped with a standard Rolex submariner reference 6538) the producers of the Bond films quickly realised that gadgets were a big hit with the audience – or the male contingent, at least – and males loved to see cool watches just as much as they did cool cars. The result was that ‘Q’ branch was put to work modifying one watch after another as trick timepieces became as integral to the films as outlandish vehicles and superhuman villains. In Thunderball (1965) Q provides Bond with a Breitling Top Time which doubles as a Geiger counter and, in Live and Let Die (1973) 007 – now played by Roger Moore – starts out bang up to date by sporting a Pulsar, one of the world’s first commercially-available quartz digital watches. Q soon re-equips him with a Rolex; however, this time neatly modified with a ‘hyper-intensified magnetic field’ for bullet deflecting and a bezel that doubles as a buzz saw. Four years later in The Spy Who Loved Me, Moore wears a Seiko with a built in teleprinter, while Moonraker (1979) sees the same model return as the hiding place for a small quantity of a powerful explosive that 007 detonates via one of the pushpieces on the watch case. Seiko watches reigned supreme throughout the 1980s doubling up, among other devices, as a radio receiver (For Your Eyes Only, 1981) and a miniature television and homing device (Octopussy, 1983), but it was all change in 1995 when Pierce Brosnan took on the role of 007 in Goldeneye. By now, the value of placing product in Bond films was truly appreciated, and the world’s favourite secret agent was given a BMW car and an all-new watch – an Omega Seamaster, complete with laser beam cutter and explosive detonator. In Tomorrow Never Dies, Brosnan’s Seamaster features a bezel-activated detonator, while the watch he wears in The World is Not Enough boasts an LED torch and a built-in grappling hook. Die Another Day, meanwhile, introduced Seamaster equipped with an upgraded detonator and a laser beam. Omega has held the plum job of official 007 timekeeper ever since and, after Daniel Craig made his Bond debut in Casino Royale back in 2006, the two different Seamaster watches he wore in the film - the Seamaster Planet Ocean from the opening sequences and the Seamaster 300M dive chronometer he receives after becoming ‘licensed to kill’ – became the stars of an Omega-themed auction in Geneva where they fetched Sfr 250,250 and Sfr 70,800 respectively. But Bond fans without such impressive sums to spend on their wrist wear shouldn't despair because, since 2002’s Die Another Day, Omega has produced a range of limited editions to mark each new Bond release – and here they all are. S P Y WATC H Left The iconic Omega Seamaster made a more fitting wristwatch for Bond than the Seikos worn by Roger Moore in the 1970s and 80s. Below The back of the ‘buzz-saw’ Rolex Submariner, as worn by Roger Moore in 1973’s Live and Let Die. It contains no movement but is the most valuable of all Bond watches. Die Another Day / Bond at 40 (2002) This version of the Seamaster Professional 300M featured a blue dial embossed with the 007 gun logo and had the legend ‘40 years of James Bond’ engraved on the back. The bracelet design was also unique to the model. 10,007 were made. Seamaster James Bond Limited Edition (2006) Fitted with Omega’s now famous CoAxial movement, this watch had a blue dial based on the spiral of a gun barrel, a 007 logo on the seconds hand and 007 engraved on the case back. Again, 10,007 were made. Seamaster Casino Royale Planet Ocean (2006) This chunky, 45.5 mm watch was fitted with a special rubber strap and the name Casino Royale on the case back. The edition was limited to 5,007 numbered examples. Quantum of Solace (2008) Another Planet Ocean, this watch featured the name of the movie engraved on the sapphire crystal and a dial patterned to resemble the grip of Bond’s Walther PPK. The 007 logo was also engraved on the case back and on the bracelet clasp. Again, 5,007 were produced. The James Bond Collector’s Piece (2008) This black-dialled commemorative watch featured a red 007 logo on the end of the seconds hand and was supplied in a black leather, silk lined box which hinted at a Bond-like tuxedo. 10,007 produced. 144 145 Skyfall (2012) This 42mm version of the Seamaster uses the latest Calibre 8507 Co-Axial movement, which can be seen through the transparent case back. The winding rotor carries the name of the film while the 007 gun logo is seen on the dial at the seven o’clock position. 5,007 available. Bond at 50 (2012) Omega naturally had to mark 50 years of Bond films and this watch is based on the Seamaster 300M worn by Brosnan when the brand first began supplying Bond in Goldeneye. Made in two sizes – 41mm and 36mm – the watch features a red number 50 on the bezel and the dial is diagonally embossed with 007 logos. The case back gets the classic barrel rifling design and the watches are available in editions o 11,007 and 3,007 respectively. The Most Expensive Bond Rolex Ever It was an undeniably sticky moment for Roger Moore’s 007 when he was left tethered to a gantry above a pool full of sharks in the 1973 film Live and Let Die. But it was a situation easily rectified: the ever cool British agent simply sliced through the ropes with the buzz-saw bezel of his Rolex Submariner. Also equipped with a ‘hyper intensified magnetic field powerful to deflect the path of a bullet at long range’ (Bond used that feature to unzip the dress of a woman called Miss Caruso) the watch really was quite something – despite having had its movement removed to enable its modification by Eon’s props department. It was among the lots at a James Bond auction in 1998 where it fetched £21,850 – but when it crossed the block again in 2011, it made almost $200,000! t h e L I M IT E D L W r i t t e n by S i m o n d e B u r to n G e A N After surviving the double whammy of war and communism, one of Germany’s greatest watchmakers bounced back, creating modern masterpieces that are becoming increasingly collectible... R OA d | B oo k the limited LANGE A. Lange and Söhne – often referred to simply as ‘Lange’ – is considered by many to be Saxony’s answer to Patek Philippe. Possibly the greatest of all German watch makers, it is based in the old Saxon town of Glashutte which once did very nicely out of extracting ore from the surrounding Erzgebirge mountains. Until the early 1800s, that is, when it ran out. A period in the economic doldrums followed until Ferdinand Adolphe Lange, master watch maker to the Saxon Court, established the town's first watch factory in 1845 and attracted several masters of the art to Glashutte who, by the turn of the century, had transformed the place into an area of horological prowess to rival the Swiss Jura. But World War Two left the region badly battered by relentless allied bombing attacks and many of the watch factories were razed to the ground. Some bounced back, but no sooner was a degree of normality resumed than the East German state expropriated the main businesses and created the Glashutter Uhrenbetrieb Factory, a conglomerate formed in 1951. ‘GUB’ as it was sometimes inelegantly known, ploughed-on throughout the Cold War period, making workmanlike and reliable mechanical watches for the masses and, importantly, enabling vital horological skills to be maintained. After the collapse of the USSR, the former state-owned company was bought by the SWATCH Group and re-named Glashutte Original, while Walter Lange – the great grandson of Ferdinand – revived his old family firm which now belongs to luxury goods giant Richemont. The story of the modern-day A. Lange and Söhne is a phoenix from the ashes tale in the very best tradition and, unlike some historic brands which find The polar opposite of mass production, practically every surface of the Tourbillon Pour Le Merite’s intricate movement was hand decorated. Just 200 were made and they’re now highly sought after. themselves in the hands of giant corporations, it has maintained the same ethos of excellence on which the firm was founded by Ferdinand Lange almost 170 years ago. Indeed, it set about demonstrating its intention to do so almost as soon as it was revived in 1994 by producing a watch which instantly came to be regarded as a modern classic – the Tourbillon Pour Le Merite. Named after a prestigious order of merit sponsored by King Frederick William IV in 1842 for outstanding scientific accomplishments, the piece is still thought of today as one of the most superbly engineered tourbillon wristwatches ever made. It has a chain-fusee mechanism to equalize the power of the mainspring and virtually every surface of the exquisitely finished movement is hand decorated. Produced between 1994 and 1998 in a strictly limited series of 200 examples (120 in yellow gold, 15 each in white and pink gold and 50 in platinum), the Tourbillon Pour le Merite had an entry price of around $65,000, but quickly became a collector's item which has been rising steadily in value ever since. Residual prices had virtually doubled by the early 2000s and continued to rise until relatively recently when they began to level at between $150,000 and $190,000 depending on case material. The outright record price for a Tourbillon Pour le Merite was set by Germany's Dr Crott auction house in May 2012 when one fetched Euros 330,000. This watch, however, was a one-off which had been custom made with a 36mm case, two mm smaller than standard. At this year’s salon International de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva, however, Lange surpassed the excellence even of the Tourbilon Pour Le Merite with the announcement that it has now created a Grand Complication wristwatch combining ‘grand sonnerie’ chimes, a perpetual calendar and a split seconds chronograph. “An unashamed display of horological genius, each watch takes a single maker an entire year to create. Just six will be made, each priced at decidedly exclusive €1.92 million apiece.” 148 149 R OA d | B oo k An unashamed display of horological genius, each watch takes a single maker an entire year to create. Just six will be made, each priced at decidedly exclusive €1.92 million apiece. Orders may be placed through alange-soehne.com 150 F o r g e n tleme n o n a j o u r n e y coming soon . . . 01 T h e a m a z i n g s to r y o f o n e o f t h e m o s t s u c c e s s f u l a n d d e s i r a b l e r ac i n g c a r s e v e r b u i lt: t h e Au to U n i o n 02 A s to n M a r t i n ’ s e xc e l l e n t n e w R a p i d e S d r i v e n o n s o m e o f t h e wo r l d ’ s m o s t c h a l l e n g i n g r oa d s 03 Lot u s f o u n d e r , C o l i n C h a p m a n – d e s i g n e r , engineering genius and untried criminal 04 S u p p ly i n g r oya lt y f r o m M a r i e A n to i n e tt e to P r i n c e C h a r l e s w i t h t h e i r e xq u i s i t e t i m e p i e c e s , B r e g u e t s t i l l s e t s t h e s ta n da r d 05 C h o pa r d ’ s i n vo lv e m e n t i n m oto r r ac i n g t i m e k e e p i n g m a k e s i t a n at u r a l c h o i c e f o r au to m o b i l e c o l l e c to r s with impeccable st yle 06 K e e p i n g yo u r f e e t w e l l d r e s s e d , J o h n Lo b b ’ s h a n d c r a f t e d s h o e s a n d b o ot s a r e s t i l l t h e u lt i m at e a f t e r 1 5 0 y e a r s AT THE HEIGHT OF FASHION W i t h a n e w s i b l i n g i n M i l a n a n d a n ot h e r r u m o u r e d to b e o n i t s way, N i c k L e e c h v i s i t s t h e o r i g i n a l A r m a n i H ot e l to f i n d o u t w h e t h e r i t ' s s t i l l at t r ac t i n g t h e b e s t d r e s s e d i n D u b a i . w r i t t e n by N i c k L e ac h Left The hotel has its own entrance, separate from the rest of the Burj Khalifa. Right There is no mistaking Giorgio Armani’s minimalist style for any other designer’s – it’s a classy, elegant and sophisticated way to leave behind the hussle and bussle of one of the world’s most visited cities. Location Ten very private and understated floors of the tallest man-made structure on earth. The 829.8 metres of the Burj Khalifa soar over Downtown Dubai, the shopping, leisure, and hospitality nexus around which many of the city’s other superlatives coalesce. Neighbours include the recordbreaking Dubai Mall – reputedly more popular in terms of visitor numbers than the whole of New York – and the crowdpleasing Dubai Fountains, but the hotel is separated from both by an intricate series of terraces, pools, and gardens that swirl around its base in a protective vortex. The hoi polloi have access to the Burj but fraternisation is physically and aesthetically impossible. Day-trippers arrive at a separate entrance before being propelled at speeds faster than gravity straight to the 124th floor observation deck that provides the only real perspective on the tower’s incomprehensible height. The Armani sits serene and secluded amidst the razzmatazz and, while it may be in the very heart of the city, it is cut from a very different cloth. “It should come as no surprise that Armani’s universe is one of heightened sensitivities. The subtlest changes in materials, textures, and finishes combine to slow the pulse and once your eyes adjust to the hotel’s low light levels, even more layers of detail and coordination emerge.” 156 Style Nowhere is this difference more visible than in the Armani’s design. Other hotels in Dubai may be newer, bigger, taller, or more opulent, but few are as refined. The hotel’s concept – Stay with Armani – is to afford guests the same kind of welcome that Mr Armani would privately extend to his own family and friends, and it should come as no surprise that his universe is one of heightened sensitivities. The subtlest changes in materials, textures, and finishes combine to slow the pulse and once your eyes adjust to the hotel’s low light levels, even more layers of detail and coordination emerge. Those inured to Dubai’s aesthetic chutzpah tend to find the effect underwhelming, but for fans of Mr Armani’s particular brand of chocolate, mocha, and cappuccino-coloured magic, the interiors act as a soothing tonic to the discordant realities of the city outside. The Scene The Armani was designed as a leisure hotel, but it is as a more than luxurious business destination that it excels. Despite this, the lobby reveals a surprisingly wide variety of guests. As well as casually dressed business types in handmade shoes, there are luxury junkies, febrile from a little too much conspicuous consumption, and carefully attired ladies who not only lunch but patently have time to do breakfast and dinner as well. As with all of Dubai’s luxury hotels, GCC-based tourists make up the numbers while Chinese visitors, many of whom book for just one night, arrive early to make the most of their stay. The ambience is grown up throughout and there is a noticeable absence of sartorial faux pas. It would seem that guests come to do business and relax, not to preen or be seen. Relaxation The 12,000 square metre Armani/SPA includes a gym, pool, relaxation rooms and a four-stage ‘thermarium’ that takes guests on a journey from the cleansing deep heat of a sauna to a steam bath and laconium and the cool mist walkaway of a final sequential shower room. Spa experiences start with a personal assessment after which the selection of appropriate therapies and treatments follow. The therapists are topnotch but, if anywhere in the hotel looks a little tired after three years’ of demanding service, it is here. Dining The hotel has eight dining options including Indian and Japanese restaurants, the latter with a room-sized sake cellar and specialist sommelier to match. The hotel’s signature restaurant is the dinner-only Armani/Ristorante, an exercise in contemporary Italian fine dining in everything but name. A sinuous, double-height space, it features its own pre-dinner bar, cigarlounge, open kitchen, and three bottle-lined Enoteche where small parties can meet, drink, and dine in private. All-day dining is available from the impeccably displayed buffet at Armani/ Mediterraneo – even the juices compliment the interior design here – and Armani/ Peck, a direct transplant to Dubai of Mr Armani’s favourite 130-year-old Milanese delicatessen. Dishes here include buratta, miniature mozzarella whose unfeasibly soft centre is mixed with cream, and grilled giant prawns with spinach and a silky cannellini bean puree. The menu may sound unambitious but the food, imported direct from Italy, is consistently impressive. Rooms The hotel’s 160 guestrooms and suites are divided between eleven categories, from the 45 square metre Armani Deluxe Rooms to the flagship 390 square metre Armani Dubai Suite, designed by il maestro himself and occupying the entire 39th floor. Thanks to the Burj Khalifa’s unique, triple-lobed footprint, most walls in the rooms and suites are curved and perfunctory objects such as TVs are hidden behind sliding screens that follow the same undulating logic. Left Muted greys, browns and greens make for a relaxing night’s stay, although the branding on towels and bathrobes slightly overdoes things. Right The hotel has eight restaurants, catering for Italian, Japanese and Indian tastes. Below In the unlikely event that you run out of things to see and do in Dubai, the Armani / Spa makes the perfect environment to top up one’s batteries. “The magic is broken by a total absence of door handles – which leads to continual confusion over what is door and what is wall.” All but the smallest rooms have separate living, bed and bathrooms and the latter come with separate rainfall showers and tubs. The bathrooms are finished in a chalky grey stone that’s naturally warm to the touch, while carnelian-coloured soaps shaped like stones speak to the level of input that Mr Armani has had in the project: he is said to have discovered the stone, his favourite, while walking on an Italian beach. Walls are clad in fine fabrics, liquid metals, and dark leather while black lacquer, silvered wood, and silk dominate the Armani Casa furnishings. The magic is broken however by a total absence of door handles – which leads to continual confusion over what is door and what is wall – and by the unnecessary and overblown Armani branding on the bathroom robes and towels. 158 Spend time A record 10 million people visited Dubai last year, attracted in part by the city’s guaranteed mix of sun, sand, spectacle and shopping; however, a slightly chastened, post-recession, Dubai is beginning to establish itself as something rather more than that. Mercantilism is written into the city’s DNA: first it was pearls, then it was oil, now it is everything from tourism and property to Islamic finance, gold, gemstones, and art. A near constant stream of executives, diplomats, dealers, and the ambitious make pit stops in this frenetic city and, thanks to its now confirmed position as a global transport and logistics hub and gateway to the new Silk Road, trade with the Far East is booming. The UAE topped Saudi Arabia as Singapore's main trading partner last year thanks to the oil and petrochemical industries and the Emirates have just welcomed the city-state's first resident ambassador. Thanks also to a growing number of headline cultural events such as the Dubai International Film Festival, Art Dubai, Design Days Dubai, and the nearby Sharjah Biennale, Dubai is cementing its position as an international cultural hub. A vibrant local arts scene has also developed around the Dubai International Financial Centre, Tashkeel, and in the industrial district of Al Quoz, where galleries have replaced garages along Alserkal Avenue. Stay the night A Deluxe Room at the Armani Hotel Dubai costs from Dh4,000 per night, including taxes, Wi-Fi and in-room non-alcoholic beverages. Breakfast is included in the cost of suites, which start at Dh4,500 per night, and tickets to ‘At The Top’, the Burj Khalifa’s observation deck on the 124th floor, are included in the price of the Signature and Dubai Suites. The Armani Dubai Suite costs from Dh40,000 per night. To book, visit: www.armanihotels.com or call 00 971 4 888 3888. SUBSCRIPTION Singapore Indicium (Singapore) Pte Ltd Level 30, 6 Battery Road Singapore 049909 [email protected] EDITORIAL ART & DESIGN BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT PRINTING & PUBLISHING EDITOR-IN-CHIEF ART DIRECTOR VICE PRESIDENT, PRINTER Kevin Hackett [email protected] Angus Hyland, Pentagram BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT Dereume Printing, Belgium www.dereume.com DESIGNERS Alan Tan [email protected] Rhian Edwards, Pentagram Alex Johns, Pentagram MARKETING DIRECTOR PROJECT MANAGER Connie Yeung [email protected] EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Irene Thepper [email protected] SENIOR EXECUTIVE ASSISTANT Tori Phillips, Pentagram Jaruphan Malisri [email protected] FINALISER PRINTING & DISTRIBUTION FASHION DIRECTOR Bunto Thirasak [email protected] CIRCULATION MANAGER Esther Quek [email protected] PHOTOGRAPHY Tresa Ong [email protected] FASHION ASSISTANTS Chua Chin Chin Yorklyn Yeo CONTRIBUTORS Jeff Reed, Dejan Jovanovich, François Oosthuizen, Richard Meaden, Simon de Burton, Richard Whitehead, James McCarthy, William Chung, Ben Samuelson, Jonathan de Nardis, Nick Leech Matt Howell Holly Falconer Karn Samanvorawong Max Earey Getty Images Newspress RM Auctions (Classic car investment images) South Florida Dive Journal (Triton Submarine images) David Pearlman PUBLISHER Indicium (Singapore) Pte Ltd Level 30, 6 Battery Road Singapore 049909 All rights reserved SPECIAL THANKS TO Patrick Bikka, Jeremy Hackett, Neil Bugler, Erwin Creed, Hotel Muse (Bangkok) www.baselworld.com bsw13_kamp_220x275_e_neu_jm.indd 1 31.01.13 14:17