Untitled - Karpathos

Transcription

small print
shape, text & pictures:
Franz Ehrnthaller
Please contact me for any questions, corrections, new routes or in any cases:
Franz Ehrnthaller
Berg-am-Laim Str. 145
81673 München
[email protected]
Notice:
Outdoor climbing contains a certain amount of risk and everybody has to handle it self dependent.
Rockslide, fastening outburst, absence of knowledge and misestimation of the own ability are the reasons that
some climbers loses their life’s. Climbing takes place on everyone’s own risk.
The description of the ways and routs occurs in all conscience. The author takes no responsibility for any
details. Everybody has to judge the risk and act accordingly.
Please were an helmet, anytime, anywhere!
Check the bolts before you use it!
2
Index
Preface…………………………………………………………………......
4
Travel to Karpathos............................................................................
5
Climbing Gear on Karpathos.............................................................
6
Climbing Map.....................................................................................
7
Adia / Chicken Climbing Bay..............................................................
8
Adia/ Waterpipe ................................................................................
14
Achata / Bayern-bloc..........................................................................
16
Afiartis / First......................................................................................
26
Afiartis / Kastello.................................................................................
29
Kira Panagia......................................................................................
33
Nameless bolts..................................................................................
36
3
Preface
In spring 2005, Ii travelled to Karpathos for windsurfing. I have seen a beautiful Island, perfect for windsurfing and other
kind of sports. I´m an enthusiastic rock climber and I have also seen many nice walls. But in the opposite to Kalymnos
there are no fixed climbing routs. I returned in summer, and so since summer 2005 there are some climbing possibilities
on Karpathos.
Now it´s October 2010 and Ii write the new version of the guide. A lot of climbing routes in nice different spots are now on
Karpathos, enough for a week of climbing. Many climbers came to Karpathos and I heard only good feedback.
In Summer 2010 I developed a internet site, www.karpathos-climbing.com. Likely you had the guide from there. At this
site there is also an forum, the Karpathos Climbing Forum. This is the fastest way to get the news on new routes and
meet some climber on Karpathos. If you want to comment some routes, there is space for everything. Try it!
Of course, you can`t compare Karpathos with Kalymnos. But this is absolutely not necessary, on Karpathos you can do
much more than rock climbing. Karpathos is very famous for windsurfing and have many nice small beaches for an
ordinary holiday.
4
Travel to Karpathos
There are some direct flights from German and Austria (Air Berlin).
Over that it´s possible to fly via Rhodos and Athens. Olympic Airways offers 3 flights per day from Rhodos to Karpathos
You can travel also by ferry to Karpathos, Anek Lines offers a ferry from Athen 3 times per week.
For best support and Prices, write to:
Manolis Tours,
Schlesienstr. 7
82278 Althegneberg
Tel.: 08202/903333
www.manolis-tours.de
5
Climbing Gear on Karpathos
Now it´s possible to rent so climbing stuff on Karpathos! You can also join a climbing course.
Located at Afiartis, Gun Bay
Phone ++30/2245091061
http://www.club-mistral.com/de/
Please check this before you rely on that information and share it with other climbers at www.karpathos-climbing.com.
6
7
Adia / Chicken-Climbing-Bay
About
The Chicken Climbing Bay is located 10 meters behind a beautiful beach. The climbs are perfect for a combination of a
bath and climbing day. There are only easy climbs and the protection is very good. After a perfect climbing day, the
Tavern „Pine Tree“ offers great food. If you need rooms for the night, there are the Sunset Studios, a nice place to sleep
in Adia.
Access/ Parking
From Pigadia to Menetes. Then to Arkassa and through Finiki in direction
to Messochori. Adia is a small Village near to the beach. Directly after the
small, one-way bridge, turn left and drive to the Pine Tree restaurant. Park
there.
Approach
Directly through the restaurant, follow the small path on the cliffs in right
direction. After 10 minutes you reach a small, nice beach. The climbs are
20 meters behind the beach.
8
Adia / Chicken- Climbing- Bay
9
On the Right
1, Chicken Habbit
Franz & Ariane Ehrnthaller
4
A nice, easy climb for beginners.
2, Chickitita
5-
Overhanging start, the route finishes in „Chicken Habbit“
3, Chickeria
5-
4, Chicko
4+
5, Chicken Run
3
Very easy one, follow „Best way down“ at the top!
10
In the middle
1,Chisi (1b Chisa)
5
The variant is a little bit “harder”, nice climb!
2, Chicken Run I
6-
If you want it a little bit rougher
3, Chicken Run II
6+
The fist 2 meters are not so easy!
4, Chickolo
~8
5, Chicky Girl
6+
11
On the left
1,Charly Brown
5+
Very nice climb! Try it, but be aware of loose rocks!
12
Adia / Waterpipe
About
The brand new sector “Waterpipe” is located directly on a path to the Kala
Limni. It´s a huge wall, a little bit overhanging and has potential for many
high- grade routes. Most of the day the wall is in the shadow, perfect for
hot summer days. The whole area has a great potential so watch out on
www.karpathos-climbing.com for new routes!
Access/ Parking
From Pigadia to Menetes. Then to Arkassa and through Finiki in direction
to Messochori. Adia is a small Village near to the beach. Directly after the
small, one-way bridge, turn left and drive to small habour. Park there.
Approach
Go back to the small, one-way bridge. There is a sign for the path to the
Kala Limni / Lastos. Follow the path about 10 to 15 Minutes. The wall is on
the left side, it can´t be overseen.
13
Adia / Waterpipe
14
Adia / Waterpipe
1, Tibu
7-
2, Taba
6
Ehrnthaller, Glück, Hentschel
Ehrnthaller, Glück, Hentschel
15
„Bayern Block“ at Achata Beach
About
Achata Beach is one oft the nicest beaches in Karpathos. The beach is surrounded from impressing walls. There are
many possibilities for new climbs, from easy alpinist climbs to hard boulders. There are many new Routes in 2010!
Access
From Karpathos Town (Pigardia) to Aperi; shortly before Aperi there is al
small bridge (one-way); directly after the bridge right and follow the sings to
Achata Beach.
Approach
At the last bend there is a small way to the wall. You will need good shoes,
there are many thorns on the plants!
Approach to sector “backdoor” and “boat or goat”
Since 2010 there are many new climbs at achata beach and it´s not so
easy to reach all of them. The new sectors “backdoor” and “boat or goat”
have many nice new paths. Especially “boat or goat” is excellent easy toprope rock climbing in great atmosphere. To reach “boat or goat” you have
to go to the sector “backdoor” (via sector “on the left”, then follow the ledge on the left). From the fixpoint on “backdoor”
you have to abseil 1 or 2 pitch to the ground.
The way back to achata is a very easy 3+ to the sector “Backdoor” or a 5+ (Hoamweh).
16
1 – “on the right”
4 – “the lower wall”
2 – “in the middle”
5 –“backdoor”(abseil to “boat or goat”)
17
3 – “on the left”
6 – “boat or goat”
On the right (sun in the morning)
1. Weh` dam
5
2. Bastel` Wastel
5-
3. 3x Mythos
5-
Markus Glück
18
In the middle (sun all the day)
1, Watschnbam
8-
Perfekt hard climb.
2, Bockfotz´n
7-
Big holds, big fun!
3, Boarndlkramer
7-
Looks easier than it is.
4, Oachkatzlschwoaf
7-
Anyone who can say this in clean Bavarian language to me at the start of
this climb gets an cold Mythos at the tavern.
19
On the left (sun in the afternoon)
1. Angstpoopi (oder Angstschoaß)
8-
Very exposed line – fearfart possible ☺
2. Winsler
7+
Dieter Hentschel
There is a part in the middle – cry – but it won´t help!
20
The lower wall (sun in the afternoon)
1. Suach
6+
2. Linger
6+
3. ½ Fakir
5+
4. Fakir
5
5. 3D Fakir
5
Markus Glück
Franz Ehrnthaller
Franz Ehrnthaller
Franz Ehrnthaller
Franz Ehrnthaller
21
Boat or Goat
1. MDF (Top Rope)
5-
2. Guckslkuh (Top Rope)
5-
3. Vertikutierer (Top Rope)
4+
4. Jaga (Top Rope)
5-
Franz Ehrnthaller
Franz Ehrnthaller
Franz Ehrnthaller
Franz Ehrnthaller
22
Boat or Goat
5. Hase (Top Rope)
5
6. Mima (Top Rope)
4+
7. Großer Tiger
4+
Franz Ehrnthaller
Franz Ehrnthaller
Franz Ehrnthaller
The only lead line in this sector. You can reach it also by boat!
23
Backdoor
24
Backdoor
1. Wuidara
6-
Franz Ehrnthaller
Lower Wall
2. Easy
3+
3. Woas er nimma
4
4. Hoamweh
5+
Markus Glück
Markus Glück
Franz Ehrnthaller
25
Afiarits / Sector “First”
About
The Name of the Sector is a fact, it´s the first
possibility to climb near the airport and the
surfing spots. Therefore i had to drill some
holes in the wall and create a climbing spot.
Perfect for a windless day. If it changes, you
will see; there is a perfect panorama over
Afiartis up there. The wall is always in the
sun, it´s getting hot there!
Access/ Parking
From the airport in the direction to Pigadia.
Before the street goes up to the mountain,
there is a small crossroad. Right to the Hotel
Poseidon, you have to turn left there. Drive
to the end of the road (holding right at the
end) an park there.
Approach
You see the wall in front of you. Go across
the field and reach the wall in 5 Minutes.
26
Afiartis / Sector “First”
27
Afiartis / Sector “First”
1, Monster Man (M.M.)
7
2, BBQ
6
Franz Ehrnthaller
5, Tama
Franz Ehrnthaller
4
For beginners, to learn elementary things.
Franz Ehrnthaller
Nice! With two cracks and big holds.
3, Guano Apes (G.A.)
Franz Ehrnthaller
Franz Ehrnthaller
Franz Ehrnthaller
6
Bolted 3 years ago, who kiss it awake?
6
Hard part in the middle, A0 possible.
4, Serious Guano (S.G.)
6, Walkie
7, Talkie
Franz Ehrnthaller
Bolted 3 years ago, who kiss it awake?
~8
Nice line, but to hard for me – for you too?
28
6+
Afiarits / Kastello
About
The Kastello is a old, small addicted
Fort from the second World War on a
hill behind the airport. It´s located near
the beautiful Diakofti Beach in the
south of Karpathos.
Access/ Parking
Drive to the Airport and further to the
small Beaches near the Airport. Follow
the “Diakofti” Beach signs and the big,
sandy road to the small hill. After the
old gate you can drive left or right to
the climbing paths. Follow the road,
left or right, to the end. Park there.
Approach
Right sector: You can see the wall
directly from the car.
Left sector: Walk about 10 Minutes
over sharp stones to the Wall.
29
Afiartis / Kastello / Left
30
31
1, Nameless
Mistral
4
Very long, but very green.
2, Nameless
Mistral
6, Nameless
Mistral
Nice!
3
The climb needs a little bit of “Roundup”
7, Nameless
Mistral
3+ 8, Nameless
Nice but green.
Also very good.
4, Nameless
Mistral
6-
Looks good, nice Path!
3, Nameless
Mistral
4+
Mistral
4
9, Nameless
Mistral
5+
6-
Big Holds, big Fun!
5, Nameless
Mistral
4+
Be careful in the lower Part.
1, Nameless
Mistral
10, Nameless
Mistral
Big Holds, big Fun!
6
Very nice Climb!
32
6
Kira Panagia
About
Last summer, I was there for
bathing with my wife.
Directly at the beach, I saw a very
good wall with bolts in it!
Unfortunately my climbing stuff was
in the hotel.
So, the difficulty of the routes are
only estimated.
33
Kira Panagia
access
Drive to Kira Panagia, park at the
street to the beach. On the left hand
side is the wall
approach
There is no approach, you can park
your car directly at the wall.
34
Kira Panagia
35
1. Nameless
~5
2. Nameless
~ 5-
3. Nameless
~6
4. Nameless
~ 6+
Nameless Bolts
About
First about the name: „Nameless
Bolts“, get’s this name from me
because I didn’t know the real name
of this climbing place.
Because of my short holidays Í didn’t
climb this easy routs.
So, the difficulty of the routs are only
estimated.
36
Nameless Bolts
access
The wall can’t be overseen, it’s directly at the
street from Arkassa to Finiki.
approach
There is no approach, you can park your car
directly at the wall.
37
Nameless Bolts
On the left
1. Name not known
~ 5-
2. Name not known
~5
.
3. Name not known
~6
4. Name not known
~?
5. Name not known
~5
38
Nameless Bolts
On the right
1. Name not known
~4
2. Name not known
~4
3. Name not known
~ 4+
39

Untitled - Karpathos

Transcription

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