beauty - Ultraceuticals

Scrub
up!
Often the forgotten link in
a regular skincare regime,
exfoliators are quiet achievers
when it comes to achieving a
radiant, youthful appearance.
By Dijanna Mulhearn.
076
In an industry where fillers, inserts and
chemical overhauls proliferate, sometimes
a simple, old-fashioned skincare technique
is all we want. If you’re feeling in need of
a quick, easy, at-home pep-up for your
complexion we have the answer.
Not as sexy as serums or as luscious
as moisturisers, the humble exfoliator often
gets overlooked, but according to industry
insiders it’s the secret to soft, healthy-looking
skin. For those who cringe at the thought of
scouring their faces with crushed apricotseed concoctions, don’t despair, exfoliators
have come a long way and do much more
to save your face.
There are generally two types of takehome products to consider. The first is
the simple mechanical exfoliator that
utilises grains or granules to exfoliate and
stimulate the skin via a cream, gel or lotion
(DermaQuest, Antipodes, Origins). The
other is the active enzyme exfoliator that
features extra benefits like fruit enzymes
or extracts that lift away dead skin cells to
promote a healthy glow. (Ultraceuticals,
Dermalogica, Kiehl’s).
Etminan Bahar, beauty industry expert and
founder of rescu.com.au, says, “Exfoliation is
the only effective method to remove the top
layers of your skin cells. Without this, your
other products won’t work.”
A scrub benefits younger skin by keeping
it clean, refreshed and regenerated. For
more mature skin the stimulation of cells
and lymph nodes bring nutrient-rich blood to
the skin’s surface resulting in more radiant,
healthier, younger-looking skin.
“A good exfoliator should contain active
ingredients that do more than just scrub the
skin,” Etminan adds. “Some key ingredients
to look out for include AHAs or BHAs that
help brighten the skin and reduce the
appearance of fine lines (Ultraceuticals).
Rice extract helps to regulate melanin
production and rice bran helps loosen cell
cohesion, promoting cell exfoliation and
controlling hyperpigmentation (Dermalogica).
Salicylic acid is a great anti-aging ingredient
that reduces the appearance of pores, while
fruit acids such as those in pineapple and
papaya, dissolve dead skin cells leaving live
skin cells intact – especially good for those
who struggle with rosacea and should avoid
rubbing (Kiehl’s).
It’s human nature to think if a little is good
then a lot must be better. When it comes
to exfoliation this is not usually the case,
especially if you are using chemical-rich
treatments in your skincare routine. Overexfoliation compromises your skin’s natural
barrier resulting in irritated, dry skin that
can become over-sensitised or prone to
PHOTOGRAPHY: ISTOCKPHOTO
BEAUTY
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breakouts. If you genuinely love the feel of
exfoliated skin then be mindful to choose a
scrub specifically created for daily use.
Etminan suggests being wary of buffing
pads as it is easy to get heavy-handed and
“you can accidentally Scotch-bright your
face off – not very pretty”. They can be
excellent for normal or coarse skin, however
those with sensitive skin should avoid this
technique altogether.
The best way to use a scrub is after
cleansing. Apply in an upward circular
motion avoiding the eye area. Gently guide
the granules over your face resisting the
urge to rub hard or you will only squeeze the
granules out from under your fingertips and
scratch your skin in the process. With scrubs
containing beneficial fruit extracts leave the
product on your skin for a couple of minutes
to allow the ingredients to act.
Remove the scrub gently with lukewarm
water. Always follow up a scrub with
moisturiser and, if your skin is sensitive, it will
appreciate a soothing serum or treatment.
Finally always apply sunscreen. You will
be pleasantly surprised at how nicely your
make-up sits and feels.
Our mothers’ generation suggests a
vigorous rub with a face washer is just as
good. However, those in the skincare industry
know that any unnecessary dragging or pulling
of the skin should be avoided at all costs.
Scrubs are not to be ignored in the pursuit
of gorgeous skin. With a range of good
products around, the easiest way to select
one is to make sure it suits your current
skincare regime, has a texture that you enjoy
and produces the results you’re after. Here
are a few we tested and really like:
Do
• Ask for a sample to trial before
committing to a brand.
• Spend a bit more on a quality
product.
• Avoid products with uneven or
coarse granules.
• Start slowly and build up from
exfoliating once a week to two or
three times a week.
Don’t
• Be heavy-handed and over-scrub.
• Use a product that has coarse
granules that can scratch the skin.
• Contradict manufacturers
instructions, use only as directed.
• Use scrubs on irritated, sunburnt
or acne-prone skin, or on broken
capillaries.
DermaQuest Skin Therapy Algae Facial Scrub
RRP$46 is a gel-based facial scrub with jojoba
beads that gently and effectively remove dead
skin cells. Algae extracts moisturise and soften the
skin leaving a healthy glow. The beads are plentiful
yet gentle, the smell of the gel is delicious and the
scrub is an excellent primer for treatment serums.
Antipodes Reincarnation Pure Facial Exfoliator
RRP$42 is a gentle exfoliator that uses avocado
and jojoba beads to lift away lifeless skin, while
a mixture of essential oils revitalises and
balances the skin’s appearance. This light
cream-based product filled with essential oils
smooths tiny jojoba beads across the skin.
Though gentle, these little granules make their
presence felt, so there is no need to be heavyhanded.
Origins Modern Friction RRP$75 has a cream
base containing rice starch to remove sluggish
cells and lemon oil to illuminate the skin, while aloe
calms the skin. Another great smelling product, the
result is polished, smooth and luminous.
Dermalogica Daily Microfoliant RRP$83.50 is a
rice-based powder that activates on contact with
water, releasing rice actives, salicylic acid and
papain (an enzyme present in papaya) to smooth
the skin and accelerate cell renewal resulting in
smoother, brighter skin. Mild enough for daily use,
this exfoliant is an industry favourite.
Ultraceuticals Ultra Clear Exfoliating Gel $44
contains active exfoliating beads in an AHA, BHA
formula that reduces bacteria while exfoliating. It
gently sloughs away congested or dead skin cells
to leave you glowing. Particularly effective for oily or
acne-prone skin, this hydrating scrub is heady with
a sweet eucalyptus smell.
Kiehl’s Pineapple Papaya Facial Scrub $52 has
fruit extracts that break down dead skin cells,
while crushed corn cob meal sloughs away dead
skin cells. The odourless ointment contains finely
ground grains in a blend of vitamins that glides
easily over the skin leaving it clean and primed
for your next topical treatment.
DDF Revolve 400X Micro-polishing System
RRP$134.95 is a lightweight, hand-held, batteryoperated resurfacer that gives you a result similar
to that of a micro-dermabrasion treatment. Using
sodium bicarbonate crystals, it dissolves dead skin
cells and gently resurfaces the skin, polishing away
imperfections. It’s safe to use in the shower and
is available exclusively at Kit Cosmetic counters
Australia-wide. This one is for those who love that
squeaky clean post-facial feel and can control the
urge to overdo it!
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