Grand Tour of Switzerland
Transcription
Grand Tour of Switzerland
mySwitzerland The Swiss holiday magazine . Summer 2015 Grand Tour of Switzerland Editorial Enjoy the trip! o you like the idea of seeing the best of Switzerland in a single scenic journey? Then you’ll love the Grand Tour of Switzerland. This route will lead you 1,600 kilometres through the country’s most beautiful regions, and will show you just how diverse, spectacular and endlessly fascinating Switzerland is. D On the Grand Tour of Switzerland, the journey is the goal. You will travel through four linguistic regions, over five Alpine passes, to 11 UNESCO World Heritage Sites and two Biosphere Reserves and along 22 lakes. In short, you’ll experience the country’s scenic and cultural highlights, strung together like pearls on a necklace. Sebi and Paul, our ambassadors for Switzerland from many promotional campaigns, have followed the tour and recorded their experiences in a travel journal. We hope you enjoy reading it. On any journey of discovery through Switzerland, there’s so much to explore and admire. Needless to say, you don’t have to drive in order to discover the country’s gems: the Grand Train Tour of Switzerland links the country’s finest panoramic routes via many of its most attractive cities and resorts. We wish you a very warm welcome and many delightful experiences on your Grand Tour of Switzerland. Happy exploring! Jürg Schmid Director, Switzerland Tourism Morning mood on the Grand Tour of Switzerland with a view of the impressive Säntis mountain range. my Switzerland 3 Touring 8 22 33 6 Win a Grand Tour of Switzerland. You could be the lucky winner of a Grand Tour of Switzerland for two people, spending nine days exploring the country’s scenic beauty and cultural variety, starting in Zurich. The competition prize includes return flights to Switzerland with SWISS, an Audi A4 quattro rental car with unlimited mileage provided by Europcar, a petrol payment card with a value of CHF 300, and eight nights’ accommodation at selected four-star hotels along the route (including breakfast, sharing a double room). Good luck! 43 How many Alpine passes does the Grand Tour of Switzerland cross? 3 46 10 57 5 12 How to enter the competition: 1. Answer the competition question 2. Enter online at MySwitzerland.com/prize Contents Grand Tour of Switzerland SPECIAL On the road with Sebi and Paul A travel journal 8 One city, two languages Fribourg 22 Fresh adventure River Rhine 33 High road to freedom Alpine passes 43 Ride to the future Zermatt – Matterhorn 46 In the land of three suns Lavaux 57 City of living art Basel, cultural capital SPECIAL Impressions Conditions of entry (excerpt): Closing date for entries: 31.10. 2015. The draw will take place on this date. Entry is free of charge. Multiple entries will be disqualified. A draw will be made from entries with the correct answer, and the winner notified by e-mail. Your contact details will be used by Switzerland Tourism and possible competition partners exclusively for marketing purposes and for the distribution of promotional material, which you can cancel at any time. Your personal data will be treated confidentially and will not be passed to third parties. Switzerland Tourism reserves the right to exclude participants from the competition, to disqualify multiple entries and to cancel the competition in the event of a suspected breach of the rules. The Audi A4 quattro will be provided by Europcar at Zürich Airport. If no Audi A4 quattro is available at the time of travel, Europcar will offer another vehicle of equal value. Full conditions of entry can be seen at MySwitzerland.com/prize. Switzerland Tourism, Tödistrasse 7, CH-8002 Zurich. Throughout the magazine: the Grand Tour photo gallery SERVICE 62 Be our guest: hotels along the Grand Tour 64 Tips to smooth the way 66 Switzerland Tourism recommends 67 The Grand Tour at a glance my Switzerland 5 Touring Travel journal The two of us have had a fantastic job the past few years. We’re tourism ambassadors for Switzerland, the most beautiful country in the world – that’s what we think, anyway. For our holidays, we embarked on a journey of discovery: the Grand Tour of Switzerland. As soon as we had packed our bags, recharged the batteries in our cameras and got out the Grand Tour map, we were ready to set off. We saw, experienced and learned an incredible amount on our tour. We found out about traditional ways of making cheese, for example; we drove beyond the mountains as far as the southern Riviera; we even got to use our rusty school French again. We’ve written our experiences up in our travel journal, and would like to share it with you. At last we’re set to go: Grand Tour of Switzerland, here we come! Our starting point: the city of Neuchâtel 0 K M – a wonderful place. Beautiful Old Town, narrow alleys, a lovely spot to relax. Of course, we take a little time to explore before leaving. Coffee and croissants by the castle taste delicious. And then we’re off. At first, our route takes us round the northern end of the lake to Mont Vully. The name makes Paul smile. With an altitude of just 653 metres, it’s surely a hill rather than a mountain. Whatever – there’s still a glorious view at the summit, taking in no fewer than three lakes: Lake Neuchâtel, Lake Biel and Lake Murten. Paul admires the Alps lining the horizon, with their snow-capped peaks. Our journey continues to the medieval town of Murten 33 K M. The views over the lake and the roofs of the Old Town? Gorgeous! After another drive, our first day ends in Fribourg 52 K M. It’s interesting how some people here speak French and others German. Fribourg lies right on the border between French-speaking and German-speaking Switzerland. Locals call the border the “Röstigraben”, the “Rösti trench”. Paul says the name comes from the potato dish that is especially popular in German-speaking parts of the country. Neuchâtel Neuchâtel’s Old Town with the “Tour de Diesse” tower, part of the old fortifications. In the background: Lake Neuchâtel and the Alps at sunset. Happy reading! 1 2 Murten 3 Fribourg Stage Neuchâtel – Fribourg Distance 52 km Highlights Home: by Lake Lucerne My interests: landscapes, culture and customs my Switzerland 6 Touring 1 Laténium: archaeological museum and park, UNESCO World Heritage 2 Town of Murten 3 City of Fribourg Name: Paul Name: Sebi Home: the Muotatal valley My interests: nature, the mountain world, animals and folk music my Switzerland 7 Touring Fribourg Fribourg stands on the boundary between French-speaking and German-speaking Switzerland. In former times, the dividing line ran through the heart of the city, making for a uniquely fascinating cultural mix. Gabrielle Attinger explores. y tour of Fribourg begins tion explains; she, too, speaks French. The with a surprise: Equilibre, the Grand Rue – alias Reichengasse, “alley of the city’s theatre, is a massive, rich”, one of the finest in the Old Town – almost window-less concrete leads down towards the lower town. In former building with upper storeys days, this was where the German-speaking, that project way beyond the ground floor. mostly Protestant workers and farmers lived, “Look, we can do other things, too!” it seems A taste for variety while the Catholic bourgeoisie had their Switzerland is a multilingual to call out to visitors heading to the city centre homes up on high. The most famous resident country with four official from the station and expecting to see mediof the lower town was the Formula 1 racing national languages: German, French, Italian and Romansh. eval buildings. Indeed, Fribourg – founded driver Jo Siffert, who died in a racing accident The linguistic boundary by the Zähringer dynasty in the 12 th century at the age of 35. His friend Jean Tinguely between German- and Frenchspeaking Switzerland is known as a city state – is known for its beautifully made a fountain in his memory; it stands in as the “Röstigraben” – the preserved Old Town. But it does offer more the upper town in the Grand-Places park. “Rösti trench”. In the mountain – and not only architecturally. The street names clearly reveal the village of Bivio in Graubünden, three different languages It’s well worth taking a look inside Equiliboundary between upper and lower town, are spoken within a very small bre – which, despite its name, does not appear between French and German: where the area. The many dialects in German-speaking Switzerland to be in balance at all. The gigantic entrance Grand Rue becomes the Stalden, a residential vary greatly. hall demonstrates the building’s bold conceparea dozing in the afternoon sun. The only Webcode: 184923 tion; beside the ticket office is the tourist activity is on the terrace of the restaurant on office, where visitors can pick up plans of the the Place du Petit St-Jean. Its name, “Au city and tips for their own personal tour of Fribourg. Tirlibaum”, hints at a peculiarity of this part of Fribourg: it My stroll through the Old Town begins a couple of hun- was here that a unique dialect arose, a mixture of Swiss dred metres further on at the Rue de Lausanne, which also German and French called Bolze. In fact there’s a “Kiosk de bears the German name of Lausannegasse or “Lausanne alley”. Bolze” opposite the restaurant. Everyone is speaking French, It turns out to be more of an alley than a road: it’s pedestri- however. The square lies in a loop of the river, which Frenchanised, and on Saturdays, shops set up stalls outside to sell speakers call the Sarine and German-speakers the Saane. On their wares. Restaurants and bars also put out tables and either side of the square, a bridge spans the river: an elegant chairs, where visitors relaxing over a coffee can tune in to the arched stone structure to the south, and a medieval covered local linguistic mix. French clearly dominates; according to wooden bridge to the north, linking the river’s lush, tranquil statistics, today only just over 20 per cent of the city’s popu- banks. Two lads walk past, speaking French; one is wearing a lation speaks German. T-shirt with the words “Fier d’être Bolze” – proud to be The Rue de Lausanne leads to the Place de l’Hôtel-de- Bolze. Does he speak Bolze, I ask? “No,” he laughs, “my father Ville, home to the city hall as well as to one of Fribourg’s does, but we’ve only got the accent. Can you hear it?” My many historic fountains. Nearly all are decorated with flowers, French isn’t good enough, I’m afraid, but I’ve learned that and each one is topped by a statue of an allegorical or biblical Bolze is not just a dialect, but an accent – and above all a figure gazing heavenwards. mentality. Just round the corner is the cathedral of St. Nicholas, the Further upstream, the “Funi”, Switzerland’s last watercity’s landmark. Also close by is the museum Fribourg devoted powered funicular, brings me back to the upper town. Here, to one of its most famous residents and his partner: the Espace there’s still so much more to see: a handful of historic monasJean Tinguely – Niki de Saint Phalle, with its inventive and teries, the old city walls with their towers, the Cardinal beer wonderfully noisy works of art. “You have to press the red museum … I’ll just have to come back another time – not pedals to make the exhibits start moving,” the woman at recep- least to hear some of that mysterious Bolze. M One city, two languages Words: Gabrielle Attinger Picture: Franck Auberson my Switzerland 8 Touring my Switzerland 9 Touring Fribourg Region. The ruins of a medieval castle dominate the small island of l’île d’Ogoz in the Lac de la Gruyère. Rolling hills, lush meadows and idyllic villages frame the lake. Photograph: Franck Auberson Bern-Bernese Oberland. Dusk falls over the meadows and forests of the hilly Emmental region, near Affoltern im Emmental. On the horizon, the Bernese Alps catch the last rays of the setting sun. Photograph: Terrence du Fresne, Croci & du Fresne Photography Travel journal Wellness holidays for palate and senses. Discover our visitor center in Buchs. More at www.chocolatfrey.ch Paul and I enjoy some typical Swiss cheese for breakfast: tangy slices of Le Gruyère and Emmentaler. The perfect start, because today we’re travelling through the regions where the cheeses are made, from the rolling landscapes around the Lac de la Gruyère to the valley of the Emmental. First stop: the charming town of Gruyères 39 K M. Pretty houses, window boxes full of flowers, cafés – absolutely idyllic. Our route continues through the Fribourg Pre-Alps; we pass Gstaad and drive through the Simmental valley to Lake Thun. In the early afternoon we reach Bern 200 K M. After a leisurely stroll through the Old Town, we’re off again to Burgdorf 228 K M, the gateway to the Emmental. From here, the Grand Tour leads us up and down, through the hills, woods and valleys of this lovely region. At the visitor dairy, we find out how the famous Emmentaler cheese is made. We can even have a go ourselves, and discover the secret to the greatest mystery in the cheese world: where do the holes come from? “It’s simple,” Johannes Sommer, the cheese master, tells us. “The propionibacteria ferment the lactic acid and the carbohydrates, releasing carbon dioxide which forms the holes in the cheese.” Aha, so now we know … Top: the hilltop Château de Gruyères. Below: looking down the Kramgasse in Bern’s Old Town to the world-famous Zytglogge clock tower. Langnau im Emmental Burgdorf Bern tings, With tas e chocolat g, etc. mouldin 9 8 Fribourg 7 4 Gruyères 5 Stage Fribourg – Langnau im Emmental Distance 260 km Highlights Frey is available in your Migros. Say cheese! After our fascinating visit to the Emmental visitor dairy, we find the famous Emmentaler AOP tastes more delicious than ever. my Switzerland 15 Touring 4 5 6 7 8 9 Town of Gruyères Gstaad / Saanen chalet village Jungfraujoch Lake Brienz cruises Old City of Bern, UNESCO World Heritage Emmental visitor cheese dairy 6 Aargau. Romantic Hallwyl Castle is one of Switzerland’s finest moated castles. It occupies two islands in the Aabach river, close to the northern tip of Lake Hallwil. Photograph: Nico Schaerer Lucerne-Lake Lucerne Region. Eroded limestone rock formations on the Schrattenfluh in the Entlebuch UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. In the distance, the valley around Sörenberg rises to the long ridge of the Brienzer Rothorn. Photograph: Gerry Nitsch Travel journal We say goodbye to the Emmental and set off towards Lucerne 121 K M. After a detour to Lake Hallwil, where we admire the historic moated castle, we reach Lucerne and its lake. The sights here are some of the most famous in Switzerland, and I want to fit in as much as possible – especially a walk across the world-famous Chapel Bridge. But Paul has his eyes on the mountains again. “Pilatus or Rigi?” he asks. Difficult choice, I reckon, the views from both are meant to be breathtaking. I say Pilatus. That makes Paul happy, because from the top of Lucerne’s local mountain, at an altitude of 2,132 metres, you can see no fewer than 73 other dramatic Alpine peaks. We finish our drive in the historic town of Schwyz 192 K M, in the cradle of Switzerland, and relax for the evening. What a day! The new Elephant Park at Zurich Zoo is one of many superb family attractions. For other exciting suggestions for family activities, see MySwitzerland.com/families. Left: the paddle steamer “Stadt Rapperswil” approaches the “rose town” of Rapperswil. Schaffhausen 17 16 Zurich Rapperswil Stage Schwyz – Schaffhausen Distance 119 km Highlights Thanks to the Grand Tour map from Hallwag Kümmerly + Frey, following the route is easy. Right: the Pilatus cog railway is the steepest in the world. Lucerne Stage Langnau im Emmental – Schwyz 11 Distance 192 km Highlights Langnau im Emmental 10 12 13 14 Schwyz my Switzerland 20 Touring 10 Biosphere Reserve Entlebuch, 11 12 13 14 UNESCO-Biosphere Hallwyl moated castle Chapel Bridge, Lucerne Pilatus Tell Chapel, Sisikon 15 15 Einsiedeln monastery 16 Grossmünster church, Zurich 17 Rhine Falls Schwyz Our next stage takes us over the high Rothenthurm plateau, one of Switzerland’s biggest stretches of moorland, to the “rose town” of Rapperswil 34 K M on Lake Zurich. We then follow the lakeshore to Zurich 64 K M Switzerland’s largest city has no end of trendy bars, clubs and cinemas, we’ve heard. On the Bahnhofstrasse, you can shop to your heart’s content – but we happily leave all that to others. Another thing they say visitors shouldn’t miss – “Züri-Gschnätzlets”, a dish of veal cooked in mushrooms and cream, served with Rösti potatoes – sounds much more our kind of thing. Fortified, we visit the new Elephant Park, which opened in Zurich Zoo in 2014. What an amazing place – it makes you want to be an elephant! Paul is keen to head to the next natural wonder: the Rhine Falls near Schaffhausen 119 K M. I, too, am captivated by the thundering waterfall. my Switzerland 21 Touring River Rhine bunker towering out of the foliage on the left bank, from which plucky youngsters are leaping into the water. Our swim from the Rhine Falls plunge pool to the Dachsen river lido lasts half an hour. It’s safe for good swimmers and the water is virtually clean enough to drink. On busy days, countless bathers ride the swimming boat up to the Rhine Falls plunge pool for five francs each. The lido itself is an oasis of tranquillity on the river. In summer, the attendant’s wife carves tropical fruits into refreshing summer snacks. Fresh adventure Words: Claudio Zemp In summer, the young Rhine offers the ultimate in refreshment: everything from wild swimming to blissfully relaxing river cruises and trips to Europe’s mightiest waterfall. On the river – without getting wet Swimmers can enjoy drifting with the flow of the river a few kilometres above the Rhine Falls, too. The best place to start is below Diessenhofen, where the current is regular with few eddies. The stretch between Lake Constance and Schaffhausen is also popular for rubber-dinghy rides: there can be as many as 1,000 people messing about in boats on hot summer days. Both banks have plenty of attractive spots for a picnic or a dip in the river. As the captain steers the boat carefully upstream, slaloming against the current, you realise the skill involved. Standing on deck, you immerse yourself mentally in this beautiful riverscape without getting wet. The journey leads past castles and romantic country houses. All around you hear birdsong – otherwise nothing but the splashing of the water and the hum of the boat’s engine. Compared with a dinghy ride, a cruise on a scheduled boat has the advantage of on-board catering; you can also enjoy a refreshing drink on the upper deck. After a short stop in the picturesque town of Stein am Rhein to admire the historic houses with their beautiful painted facades, we take the next boat back downstream; in summer, the vessels cruise four times a day in each direction. We sail swiftly downriver. Travelling like this is good for the soul, without unnecessary loss of adrenalin. We glide in style over the water, and at the end of the journey, when we disembark, we carry the spirit of the river away with us. I can almost feel it splashing in my heart. Top: the boat offers a close-up experience of the mighty Rhine Falls. Below: Stein am Rhein is famous for its painted facades. Refreshing experiences along the Grand Tour. p Bern-Bernese Oberland, Lauterbrunnen: valley of waterfalls p Geneva, Bains des Pâquis: lake lido with view of “Jet d’eau” fountain his would surely make the world’s most amazing shower: every second, 500 to 700 cubic metres of water plunge a good 23 metres down the waterfall. That must pack a punch ... The boat approaches so close to the Rhine Falls that we’re all covered in spray. The skipper does a tour of the plunge pool before things get serious: this is the “swimming boat”, and to get back to the Dachsen Rhine lido, we’re all going to swim downstream. “When you dive in, you get marks for style,” the skipper jokes, by way of farewell. He’s the only one who stays on board the 17-metre boat. T At 22 degrees, the water is refreshing. Swimming in the Rhine is like cycling downhill: effortless and exhilarating. For once the tyres around my tummy come in useful: they’re like flotation aids, giving a little extra buoyancy. The brochure describes this section of the river as the “Amazon of the Rhine”. The lush greenery on the river banks does in fact suggest a jungle. There aren’t any piranhas, thankfully, but two exotic turtles – yellow-bellied sliders – supposedly live here. We don’t see them, any more than we see the beavers that fell the trees at night. The current carries us briskly downstream. We’re soon swimming under the Nohl bridge. Shortly after, we pass an old my Switzerland 22 Touring p Jura & Three-Lakes, River Doubs: scenic canoe trip down the river p Lucerne-Lake Lucerne Region, Lorelei: swimming islands in lake by Reuss delta p Aargau, Lake Hallwil shore path: idyllic trail with pretty spots for swimming p Ticino, Verzasca valley: refreshing dips in the bewitching emerald Verzasca p Basel Region, Rhine: river crossing on a nostalgic passenger ferry MySwitzerland.com, Webcode: BL25153 my Switzerland 23 Touring Zurich Region. View from Zurich’s historic Schipfe district across the River Limmat to the east bank with its historic guildhalls. The Grossmünster church, with its two towers, is one of the city’s landmarks. Photograph: Jan Geerk Eastern Switzerland / Liechtenstein. The small town of Werdenberg is formed of wooden buildings, and is the oldest of its kind in Switzerland. The Schlangenhaus Museum (left) below the medieval castle explores the region’s fascinating history. Photograph: Daniel Ammann Travel journal Official Partner of eer h s f o s ile m 0 0 0 1 . e r u s a e l driving p to e m o c l We o. r t t a u q of d n a l e th Sometimes, I think to myself, it really is worth getting up early. Paul and I sit on the shore of Lake Constance and enjoy the sunrise. The lake is so big, you almost feel you’re at the seaside. We follow the road along the shore, leaving it at Arbon 74 K M to continue our Grand Tour to St. Gallen 96 K M. Here we explore the historic abbey district. “It would take you a while to read that lot,” says my friend, as we admire the famous abbey library with 170,000 books. Paul is in a good mood as we continue our journey through the hilly Appenzell region with its beautifully painted farmhouses – we are getting closer to the mountains again. We drive through the Toggenburg region and down into the Rhine valley. Here we find idyllic Werdenberg: it has only 90 residents, but it’s not a village, it’s actually one of Europe’s smallest towns. At Heidi’s Village above Maienfeld 205 K M, we learn all about the heroine of the popular children’s stories, one of the most famous Swiss people ever. The beautiful region is known not just as the setting for Heidi’s adventures but also for its delicious wines. We visit a “Torkel”, as the local wine cellars are called. And to round off the day, we enjoy a glass of Pinot Noir from the neighbouring vineyards. A Toggenburg farmhouse on the Schwägalp road near Ennetbühl, just before Nesslau-Krummenau. Schaffhausen 18 Arbon 20 Distance 205 km Highlights Audi is partner of the Grand Tour of Switzerland. With the innovative quattro four-wheel-drive system this fabulous route turns into an exceptional motoring experience. quattro drive is available in the Audi Q3 and in a further 160 Audi models. www.audi.ch 18 19 20 21 22 St. Gallen 19 Stage Schaffhausen – Maienfeld Town of Stein am Rhein Abbey of St. Gallen, UNESCO World Heritage Painted facades, Appenzell Swiss Tectonic Arena Sardona, UNESCO World Heritage Heidi’s Village, Maienfeld my Switzerland 29 Touring 21 22 Maienfeld Graubünden. The idyllic, emerald-green Sufnersee lies on the San Bernardino road between Thusis and the historic Walser village of Splügen. Photograph: Nico Schaerer Travel journal Alpine passes High road to freedom After a good night’s sleep, we leave the Rhine and head up into the side valley of the Prättigau. We cross the Flüela Pass at 2,383 metres and descend into the valley of the Lower Engadin. The landscape is wonderfully wild and unspoilt: not surprising, because the Swiss National Park is just around the corner. As we climb past the village of S-chanf 94 K M, the valley opens up. Soon after, Lake St. Moritz lies before us under a bright blue sky. Sailing boats glide across the water. Paul notices splashes of colour in the sky ahead: the kites of the kitesurfers on Lake Silvaplana. As we approach, we take a closer look: it’s crazy how they skim across the waves and leap through the air. Eventually we leave this indescribably beautiful region and head over the Julier Pass to Thusis 175 K M. The town lies at the end of a narrow gorge, the Viamala, with cliffs 300 metres high. In earlier days the canyon was a genuine obstacle on the route across the Alps. Today we negotiate the gorge via a sequence of bridges and tunnels, comfortably reaching Splügen 200 K M. Words: Markus Lehner Pictures: Mattias Nutt, Nico Schaerer Patrician houses of wood and stone form the heart of the beautifully preserved Walser village of Splügen. Below: the route through the Viamala gorge presented a great challenge to travellers in former times. Maienfeld 23 24 27 26 25 Thusis S-chanf Splügen e are at Splügen in Graubünden, 1,475 metres above sea level, a few kilometres before the steep climb to the top of the San Bernardino Pass. It is 8 o’clock in the morning. The sun, rising behind the mountain ridge to the east, has turned the summit of the 3,279-metre Piz Tambo a silky pink. All around us, clouds of water vapour rise from the high meadows and pastures after the night’s storms; a wonderful cocktail of natural aromas fills the air, a blend that even a master chef could not match. Dietmar and I climb on the powerful Harley-Davidson motorcycles that are taking us on the Grand Tour of Switzerland. The big cities and the W Stage Maienfeld – Splügen Distance 200 km Highlights 1,600 kilometres, two motorbikes, one unforgettable adventure: a trip on Harley-Davidsons promises the ultimate Grand Tour of Switzerland. Markus Lehner reports. 23 Mountain village of Guarda 24 Swiss National Park 25 Benedictine convent of St. John, Müstair, UNESCO World Heritage 26 Muottas Muragl panoramic peak 27 Rhaetian Railway’s Albula/Bernina line, UNESCO World Heritage my Switzerland 32 Touring sweeping plateaus are behind us; today, the Alps and the Ticino region are on the menu. Freedom, here we come! Riding Harleys is Dietmar’s passion. Mid-fifties, well-built, broad-shouldered and with salt-and-pepper hair, he has travelled halfway around the world on his American “freedom machines” – and turned his hobby into a career. The former marketing executive now owns a respected Harley-Davidson dealership in the centre of Zurich. With a big grin, Dietmar presses a switch on the handlebars of his orange-silver Electra Glide Ultra Classic. “Born to be wild” by Steppenwolf, the ultimate song of the Easy Rider generation, plays from the motorbike’s four loudspeakers with the quality of a home ➝ my Switzerland 33 Touring Grand Tour Songs. A cool soundtrack makes the Grand Tour of Switzerland even more fun. How about: Born to be wild – Steppenwolf Mustang Sally – Wilson Pickett Ramblin’ Man – Allman Brothers Band On the road again – Willie Nelson Long white Cadillac – Dwight Yoakam Hot blooded – Foreigner Radar love – Golden Earring The trip along the Tremola, which leads from Airolo in the south up to the Gotthard Pass in a sequence of spectacular hairpin bends, is breathtaking. The road is regarded as Switzerland’s longest monument. hi-fi. “No stopping us now,” laughs Dietmar, as he sets off. My very slightly less luxurious Harley-Davidson Road King unfortunately has no stereo. But if I could yodel, I would right now … Camaraderie of the open road Without rushing – a Harley is a pleasure machine, not a racer – we thread our way up the countless hairpin bends of the narrow road to the San Bernardino Pass at 2,065 metres. When we reach the summit, shivering slightly but exhilarated by the ride, the distant views and the beautiful colours, we stop for a coffee. We immediately bump into other motorbike riders and even cyclists: in half an hour, we chat in five different languages with other two-wheeled travellers. A 70-year veteran cyclist from northern Germany with a weather-beaten face proudly shows us a document with an official seal. “I have to go to Rome,” he says, “this paper’s an invitation to an audience with the Pope.” For our part, we won’t be going as far as Rome – just to Locarno in Ticino, in the sunny south of Switzerland. Within a few dozen kilometres, we drop nearly 1,800 vertical metres as we glide down towards Bellinzona on the spectacular twisting road through the Italian-speaking Mesolcina valley, which welcomes us with sizzling summer temperatures of more than 30 degrees. We pack our thick pullovers into the saddlebags and change into lighter summer biking outfits. At around midday we reach Locarno – together with Lugano, officially primarily to tourists: most of the traffic crossing the Alps here now rolls through the 17-kilometre Gotthard tunnel way below. The Tremola’s paved surface and its many twists and turns promise a memorable ride or drive for every traveller. When we reach the summit, we stop for a sausage by way of celebration. As the sun slowly sinks towards the horizon, it bathes the dramatic mountain scenery in a warm evening glow. We motor down the Gotthard towards Realp, the next overnight stop on our Grand Tour of Switzerland. Tomorrow, we look forward to the Furka Pass, the Valais and other magnificent sights. the warmest place in Switzerland – and stop to enjoy one of the incomparable ice creams. “Pistachio for me,” says Dietmar, “anything else would be sacrilege.” High thrills on the twisting Tremola Despite the hot summer temperatures, we don’t change into our swimming trunks for a refreshing dip in Lake Maggiore. Instead we put our helmet and gloves back on and head northwards up the Leventina valley, where one of the most thrilling and impressive of Europe’s pass routes awaits us: the Tremola. Built in the early-19 th century and resurfaced between 1937 and 1941 with hundreds of thousands of small square blocks of granite, the road twists in a sequence of tight hairpin bends from Airolo up to the top of the Gotthard Pass at an altitude of 2,106 metres. Today, this engineering marvel is of interest my Switzerland 34 Touring In front of the hotel, I listen – tired but happy after the day’s adventures – to the characteristic crackling sound of the engines as they cool. Dietmar walks over, pats me on the back and says with a grin: “If there had been motorbikes in William Tell’s day, I know how he would have gained his freedom …” Experience the Grand Tour in grand style: visit the website below and click on > Try a bike > Rent a Harley www.harley-davidson.ch Some of the most breathtaking sections of the Grand Tour. p Bern-Bernese Oberland, Neuhaus – Oberhofen: along Lake Thun, with view of the soaring Niesen p Lucerne-Lake Lucerne Region, Greppen – Beckenried: with car-ferry ride across the lake p Fribourg Region, La Sauge – Sugiez: over Mont Vully, with views of the Three-Lakes Region p Lake Geneva Region, Vich – Le Brassus: over the Jura heights into the Vallée de Joux p Valais, Vétroz – Saillon: through vineyards and typical Valais winemaking villages MySwitzerland.com, Webcode: BO25153 my Switzerland 35 Touring Travel journal One country. One ticket. The Brissago islands are located in the Swiss part of Lake Maggiore. The larger of the two islands is home to a botanical garden where many species of subtropical plants flourish. Soon after Splügen 0 KM we head over the San Bernardino Pass. From a long way off we can make out the castles of Ticino’s capital, Bellinzona 73 KM. In the Middle Ages, these formed a mighty barrier across the valley, designed to prevent invaders from penetrating south. Luckily times have changed, and today visitors from the north are welcome guests. Soon after, we reach Ascona 94 KM, where we stroll along the lake promenade. The sunshine sparkles on Lake Maggiore, and the palms rustle in the breeze. We enjoy what locals call “dolce far niente” – blissful idleness – and tuck into a delicious “pasta fatta in casa”. Paul and I don’t speak any Italian, but people are happy when we greet them with a “Buongiorno”. Afterwards we go for a dip in the lake and relax in the sun. The afternoon passes quickly, as does the warm summer evening in a traditional “grotto” restaurant with chicken, polenta and a tasty Merlot. Tomorrow we’re giving ourselves a rest day here in the lovely south. We’ll go on an excursion to Lugano and find a sunny spot by the lake to relax. Needless to say, we won’t be writing! Splügen Stage Splügen – Ascona 28 29 Bellinzona Distance 94 km Ascona-Locarno Discover Switzerland with the Swiss Travel Pass. For the best experiences by train, bus and boat – SwissTravelSystem.com Highlights 30 31 my Switzerland 37 Touring 28 Three castles of Bellinzona, UNESCO World Heritage 29 Ascona lake promenade 30 Monte Brè Lugano 31 Monte San Giorgio, UNESCO World Heritage Ticino. Seen from Ascona’s beautiful main piazza, Lake Maggiore sparkles in the light of the low afternoon sun. Photograph: Markus Bühler Valais. The setting sun bathes the mountains along the Rhone valley in a golden light. The village of Salgesch and the town of Sierre lie in the background; to the left is the Pfyn-Finges Nature Park, the first in the Valais. Photograph: Christian Pfammatter, Visp Travel journal Zermatt – Matterhorn Today is full of ups and downs. We have only just done the Gotthard Pass when the next climb begins at Realp 108 KM – to the Furka Pass leading into the Valais. The summit is also the highest point of our Grand Tour: 2,429 metres above sea level. On the drive down the far side, we see so many mountains that not even Paul knows all their names. In the peaceful valley below, the Goms, the villages consist of wooden chalets and barns, blackened by the sun, huddled around the village church. After Fiesch 160 KM we reach the cable car stations for Bettmeralp and Riederalp. We’ve heard that the view up there of the Aletsch Glacier is breathtaking. Of course, we want to see the biggest glacier in the Alps with our own eyes. We glide up in a cable car, and soon we’re standing in front of the spectacular river of ice. Inspired by yet another unforgettable experience, we continue to Visp 186 KM. We then drive up the narrow and wild Matter valley through a string of pretty villages until we reach the car park in Täsch 217 KM. Our destination, Zermatt 223 KM, is car-free, and the only way there is by train. This takes us in just over ten minutes to the resort at the foot of the Matterhorn. Paul can’t wait to see the “Horu”, as locals call the mountain, for real. Ride to the future Words: Lucas Roos No question about it: Zermatt has an unmistakable trademark. It’s 4,478 metres high, shaped like a pyramid and is called the Matterhorn. But there’s also another: it’s two metres high, shaped like a box, and locals call it the “Elektromobil”. T In the Upper Goms, the valley of the young Rhone, the route leads through typical Valais villages such as Reckingen (right). The mountain views are spectacular throughout. Realp Stage Ascona – Zermatt Distance 223 km Highlights he streets and alleys of the car-free mountain resort of Zermatt are narrow, perfect for a leisurely stroll. All the more so because pedestrians have priority over vehicles, thanks to Article 3 of the municipality’s traffic regulations. Here, pedestrians rule the streets, and the electric vehicles are mere vassals. The first “Elektromobil” is said to have appeared as far back as 1947. In those days, horse-drawn carriages were common: before the boom in electric vehicles in the 1970s, the resort boasted about 40 single-horse carriages and four two-horse carriages. Today, there are just two of each, mainly serving as a tourist attraction. The Zermatt Elektromobil is manufactured in the resort, and each is a one-off. The vehicle’s most striking feature is its characteristic box shape. The dimensions are specified by the municipality: 1.4 metres wide, four metres long and two metres high. As their number has grown, the vehicles have become an emblem of the resort at the foot of the Matterhorn as well as a symbol of eco-friendly mobility. And while the mountains form a natural limit to Zermatt’s route network, the demand 32 33 32 Tremola, old Gotthard Pass road 33 Swiss Alps Jungfrau-Aletsch, Fiesch Ascona-Locarno UNESCO World Heritage 34 Matterhorn Visp 34 Täsch Zermatt my Switzerland 42 Touring for means of transport to carry guests and goods continues to grow. During six to eight weeks of the year, the number of people in the resort can rise to 30,000 – not including daytrippers. To accommodate them, a good 500 electric vehicles are permitted in the resort, including about 40 taxis. In 2015, Zermatt is celebrating the 150 th anniversary of the first ascent of the Matterhorn. It’s the ideal occasion to visit the resort and enjoy the many special events – and also have a ride on an original Zermatt Elektromobil. For something a little more romantic, with just one horsepower, visitors can summon Werner Imboden, brother of the Elektromobil makers. He has been carrying guests on his one-horse carriage through the Matterhorn village for decades, to a charming soundtrack of clip-clopping hooves and ringing bells. Celebrate the king of mountains with Zermatt: events to commemorate the first ascent of the last 4,000-metre Alpine summit to be conquered are taking place all year. For information, see www.zermatt.ch/150. my Switzerland 43 Touring Travel journal We make sure you experience Switzerland before you even arrive. 4jbaWXeYh_Vbhagelg[TgVTaUXXkc_beXW\a`TalW\øXeXagjTlf.Uhgba_lFj\gmXe_TaWÆfaTg\baT_ airline shows you what makes it so unique. We ensure that Swiss quality never remains just a ceb`\fX!G[Ta^fgbbhecXefbaT_fXei\VXXkVX__XageXZ\baT_Vh\f\aXTaWjTe`[bfc\gT_\gl.lbhe Swiss holiday starts with us. The Matterhorn in the red light of dawn was a magnificent magnific sight, one we won’t forget quickly. Back in the wide Rhone valley, we see more and more vineyards as we head west: after all, the sunny Valais is Switzerland’s biggest winemaking area. We make out the landmarks of the city of Sion 77 KM – two dramatic rocky outcrops, each topped by a castle – from a long way off. Further on, the valley makes a sudden right-angle turn; soon after, in the charming town of Saint-Maurice 121 KM, we stop at the abbey dating from AD 515 and admire one of Europe’s finest ecclesiastical treasures. We visit the proud castle and explore the “fairies’ grotto” deep inside the mountain, and are enchanted by the subterranean lake. Further on, yet another castle greets us: the fairy-tale Château de Chillon on the shore of Lake Geneva. What can we say, other than: welcome to the Vaud Riviera! After so many castles, we are beginning to feel like kings – so we are more than happy to spend a night in this majestic region. The Château de Chillon perches on a rocky island just off the shore of Lake Geneva. The fairy-tale castle is Switzerland’s most visited historical building. Lausanne 38 37 Saint-Maurice 36 Sion Zermatt Stage Zermatt – Lausanne Distance 178 km (from Täsch) Highlights my Switzerland 45 Touring 35 36 37 38 Mountain village of Grimentz Abbey of Saint-Maurice Château de Chillon, Montreux Lavaux terraced vineyards, UNESCO World Heritage 35 Lavaux In the land of three suns Words: Lisa Inglin The region of Lavaux, with its terraced vineyards, is one of Switzerland’s most charming UNESCO World Heritage Sites. A walk from St-Saphorin to Cully promises picturesque villages, welcoming wine cellars and ever-changing views over Lake Geneva. he first steps lead straight into the Middle Ages: along narrow alleys, up steep flights of steps and through stone archways. The walk through the UNESCO World Heritage Site begins at St-Saphorin. The houses extend up the steep slope from the lakeshore, closely huddled together to keep the precious land free for winegrowing. The village has retained its historic charm beautifully: here a lantern over a gateway, there a wooden arcade leading to an annex. The church of St. Symphorian, with its imposing bell tower, dominates the centre of the village. The wind rustles the leaves of the poplar in front of the church, which gives the square its name: Place du Peuplier. It’s home to a wine bar and the well-known Auberge de l’Onde. The atmosphere is peaceful: the fountain splashes quietly as swallows swoop over the tiled roofs and village boys kick a ball around. T According to the signposts, the walk from here to Cully takes an hour and a half. The lane leads me into the heart of Lavaux, through the terraced vineyards. Lake Geneva stretches out below in the haze; high up, the last snowfields sparkle on the summits of the Valais peaks. The terraces are mostly narrow and small; some are barely larger than a living room. Bright retaining walls up to three metres high keep the earth in place. It was the construction of these walls that first made it possible to grow vines on this steep terrain. And that is what is special about this landscape: it was shaped laboriously over centuries by human hand. Nevertheless, the vineyards, lanes, villages and hills form a harmonious whole, as if created by an artist. I notice there’s often a rosebush flowering at the end of a row of vines. “Roses are excellent indicators of fungal attack,” the winemaker Christophe Chappuis tells me in the tasting room of his magnificent winegrower’s house in the my Switzerland 46 Touring The winemaking village of Rivaz above Lake Geneva is the smallest municipality in canton Vaud. Harvesting the grapes on the steep terraced vineyards of Lavaux is still tough work. heart of the village of Rivaz. The road is called En BonsVoisins. “It’s actually a wonderful community,” says the winemaker, “we often organise celebrations.” The Chappuis family has been making wine for generations; the family tree on the wall extends back to 1335. “We look after a piece of cultural heritage,” Chappuis says. “That’s a privilege, but it also carries obligations.” He and his wife have three daughters and hope that the tradition will continue. They grow different grape varieties, but mainly Chasselas. Chappuis waxes lyrical about the “Queen of grapes”: he says it’s “delicate in aroma, versatile and offers plenty of leeway during vinification.” The wine matures in oak barrels in the cellar. “Frost, rain, hail – anything can happen until you finally get the wine in the barrel,” says Chappuis. The end of the harvest, then, is a moment to celebrate, when growers are rewarded for their efforts. Chappuis’ 18 plots of land lie in a wide radius around Rivaz. “Before the fusion of plots in the 1980s, they were even smaller and more scattered,” he says. Thanks to the varied locations, however, he can produce wines with a broad palette of flavours. The grapes for his flagship wine, the Dézaley Grand Cru, grow to the west of Rivaz. Here, the terrain is very steep, and the path leads almost directly above the lake. The sunshine is that much more intense. Walkers can feel the “three suns” of Lavaux, which fill the grapes with flavour: the direct sunlight, the reflection of the sun’s rays on the surface of the lake, and the warmth radiated from the stone walls. The conditions seem to suit the lizards, and the pink snapdragons growing in the cracks of the walls are full of flower. A short climb leads to the winemaking village of Epesses. The sweeping views extend across Lake Geneva far into France; the village of Cully lower down appears more modern and busier. Looking back, I see once again the beautiful pattern of small terraces and neat vines: the perfect interplay of culture and nature. Other UNESCO World Heritage Sites. p Swiss Tectonic Arena Sardona: secrets of how the Alps were formed p La Chaux-de-Fonds / Le Locle: town planning and watchmaking p Monte San Giorgio: Switzerland’s fossil mountain on the shores of Lake Lugano p Rhaetian Railway’s Albula / Bernina line: one of the world’s most spectacular train journeys MySwitzerland.com, Webcode: BC25153 my Switzerland 47 Touring Lake Geneva Region. View over Lake Geneva from near the village of Villette among the terraced vineyards of Lavaux, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. A paddle steamer from the belle époque is approaching its next stop. Photograph: Nico Schaerer Travel journal St-Ursanne I have to say say, the terraced vineyards above Lake Geneva are a wonderful sight. And the French spoken here, it’s so melodic – somehow more charming than our own guttural Swiss German. We make a detour to Geneva 80 KM, international city and home of the UN, and are rewarded with a view of the mighty “Jet d’eau” fountain. The water jet shoots about 140 metres up into the sky; it’s even illuminated at night. We spot all kinds of boats on the lake, from luxurious yachts to paddle steamers from the belle époque. Of course, that makes us want to head out on the water, too, so to round off our visit to Geneva we join a river cruise on the Rhone. Back on the Grand Tour, the views over Lake Geneva are fantastic. Paul even recognises Mont Blanc in the distance, the highest peak in the Alps. After climbing up to the Col du Marchairuz, we drive through the beautiful rolling heights and sparse forests of the Jura. At the end of this magnificent stage, we reach Yverdon-les-Bains 193 KM at the western end of Lake Neuchâtel. Saignelégier 43 42 Neuchâtel Yverdon-les-Bains 41 Stage Yverdon-les-Bains – St-Ursanne Distance 145 km Highlights The Doubs Nature Park (above: Etang de la Gruère) and the neighbouring Chasseral Nature Park are two of 20 national and regional parks throughout Switzerland. They are notable for their rich natural and cultural heritage and sustainable use of resources. MySwitzerland.com/ecotourism Above: The Jet d’eau fountain, Geneva’s landmark, is a highlight of any visit. Right: Lausanne enjoys a scenic location above Lake Geneva, with views of the snow-capped Savoie Alps. Yverdon-les-Bains Stage Lausanne – Geneva – Yverdon-les-Bains 39 Distance 193 km Highlights 39 Olympic Museum, Lausanne 40 Jet d’eau, Geneva Geneva 40 Planning & Watchmaking, UNESCO World Heritage 43 Town of St-Ursanne The Jura Route from Basel to Nyon is n°. 7 of SwitzerlandMobility’s nine national long-distance cycle routes. For more on these superb rides, see MySwitzerland.com/outdoor. The last-but-one day of our Grand Tour leads us through the Val de Travers and back to Lake Neuchâtel. Soon after, we reach the starting point of our whole adventure, Neuchâtel 67 KM. But we haven’t finished yet – our journey is going to continue through the Jura as far as Basel. First, we head over a pass called the “Vue des Alpes” and on to Saignelégier 117 KM. Here we are in the middle of the Doubs Nature Park, which adjoins the Chasseral Nature Park. To experience this pristine landscape close-up, we set off on foot along a path to a small moorland lake in the Doubs Nature Park: the Etang de la Gruère. The gentle walk via Les Cerlatez to La Theurre takes us a good hour. At the lake we pause for a while and enjoy the idyllic tranquillity. On the walk back, we come across more and more cyclists. You can actually cycle from here all the way to Basel, but to do that the two of us would have to get into shape first. So instead we just enjoy a short and leisurely ride on a pair of Flyer electric bikes, before continuing our journey towards Basel by car. Lausanne my Switzerland 50 Touring 41 Creux du Van rock amphitheatre 42 La Chaux-de-Fonds /Le Locle Town my Switzerland 51 Touring Geneva. The southern tip of Lake Geneva, where the River Rhone flows out of the lake, boasts some of Switzerland’s most desirable residential districts as well as the Jet d’eau fountain, the city’s landmark. Photograph: Jean-Jacques Steiner, Geneva Tourism Jura & Three-Lakes. The Etang de la Gruère is a moorland lake and nature reserve located between Tramelan and Saignelégier on the high plateau of the Franches-Montagnes. Photograph: Roland Gerth Travel journal Basel, cultural capital The river trout we had for dinner yesterday in the medieval town of St-Ursanne 0 KM is highly recommended – the best we’ve ever eaten! It probably came straight from the Doubs. We’ve crossed the stately river via an old stone bridge with four arches to admire the town’s elegant 14 th- and 16 th-century houses from the far side. Today, sadly, is the last day of our Grand Tour of Switzerland. Soon we’ll be at our final destination – but not just yet. We drive to the historic town of Delémont 20 KM and continue through the meadows and forests of the rolling Jura before reaching the final climb of our trip: up to the Chall Pass, just 747 metres above sea level. Despite its modest altitude, we enjoy sweeping views over the Alsace and the city of Basel 72 KM. Here, close to the borders with France and Germany, we finish our Grand Tour of Switzerland – and a wonderful journey of discovery. City of living art Words: Nicole Althaus The picturesque medieval town of St-Ursanne; the arched bridge across the River Doubs was built in 1728. 44 St-Ursanne Stage St-Ursanne – Basel Distance 72 km Highlights my Switzerland 56 Touring ities are not strings of facts and descriptions, even if guide books like to present them that way. Nor are they merely the sum of historical events or numbers, however impressive these may be. A city is more like a poem or a story: each has its own rhythm, its own special atmosphere. In Basel, this story begins with a man in financial straits who felt obliged to sell his Picassos, which were hanging in the Kunstmuseum art museum on loan. There was a public outcry, and young local people organised a legendary campaign with the slogan “All you need is Pablo” – the year was 1967 – to encourage residents to vote in favour of a credit to buy the C Basel Delémont Basel is a fountain of creativity: visitors encounter art at every turn, as well as the greatest concentration of museums of any European city. 44 Basel, city of culture works for the city. It was the first and last time anywhere in the world that an artist’s pictures have been bought at the ballot box. A football stadium or a motorway? Certainly. But art? The elderly Pablo Picasso had followed events from his home in the south of France, and the people of Basel’s attachment to art touched him so much that he gave them four further works for their Kunstmuseum. Today, as a result, a visit to two of the city’s museums – the Kunstmuseum and the Fondation Beyeler, which between them own 33 masterpieces by the artist – will give an experience of every one of his creative periods. To achieve this in another way, a Picasso enthusiast would have to travel to one of the few major ➝ my Switzerland 57 Touring Basel Region. Late-afternoon view across the Rhine to the Old Town of Grossbasel with the Mittlere Brücke bridge and the Martinskirche, said to be the city’s oldest parish church. Photograph: Christoph Gysin Travel journal cities around the world still able to afford to stage one of the artist’s rare retrospectives. Art clearly sets the tone in Basel, as visitors notice everywhere. Take the Fondation Beyeler, for example, designed by the leading architect Renzo Piano: relax in the gardens after seeing an exhibition, let your eyes rest on the pond with its water lilies, and you suddenly have the feeling you’re sitting in a painting by Monet. Or take a seat on the Theaterplatz beside the Tinguely fountain, and take in the scene as you sip a coffee: watch the water spray and splash around the moving sculptures, and see how the theatrical spectacle enchants children and adults alike. Afterwards, as you stroll through the city’s streets, you’ll stumble across a variety of works. The “Intersection” by the American sculptor Richard Serra, for example, two massive sails of steel that you can walk in and around, a gift to the city from private benefactors. Or the “Moon Ladder” by René Küng, which stretches delicately yet boldly up into the open sky, suggesting you could touch the clouds if only you climb high enough. And naturally there’s the “Giardino all’italiana” in which Luciano Fabro has ripped up the stone paving, as if creating a field in the heart of the city, making trees into sculptures. Where does nature end, where does art begin? This is a question many visitors ask themselves in Basel. Or rather: where does the city end and where does art begin? Basel has more than 40 museums in an area of just 37 square kilometres, the greatest concentration of museums of any city in Europe. Sam Keller, former director of Art Basel and now director of the Fondation Beyeler, puts the city’s special quality in a nutshell: “While other cities discuss how much art is good for them and whether art deserves public support, art forms part of Basel’s DNA.” Art is as much part of the fabric of the city as is the River Rhine: it is more than an intellectual exercise or something to marvel at, it is a daily encounter, a source of inspiration in the heart of the city. And this special quality is something that even the youngest visitors notice: especially on a trip to the Tinguely Museum across the river. Here, Our journey of discovery through Switzerland is something we’ll never forget. What an incredible variety of landscapes, mountain views and lakes! Then there’s all the linguistic and cultural diversity … and what an amazing concentration of sights and attractions! We’ve seen and experienced an unbelievable amount on the tour – but by no means everything. So we’ll definitely be back to explore in more detail. After all, the end of a tour is just the start to planning the next one. Perhaps already next year. And maybe we’ll bump into you, too, on the Grand Tour. We look forward to it! The Fondation Beyeler houses one of the world’s finest collections of modern and contemporary art, with about 200 works by 40 artists. children are so captivated by the exhibits that they forget time altogether – and with it, the idea that museums are boring. By the time you take the little ferry back across the river at dusk and climb the steps to the cathedral, you have understood the spirit of the city, you can feel its rhythm. In Basel, art is not a list of famous names, even when this is long and impressive and a worthy match for almost any of the world’s capitals. Rather, it is the beating heart of the city itself. Impressive museums along the Grand Tour. p Bern, Zentrum Paul Klee: masterpieces by Klee in a spectacular building by Renzo Piano p Winterthur, Fotomuseum: one of Europe’s most innovative centres for photography p Geneva, Mamco: Switzerland’s largest museum of contemporary art p Zurich, Kunsthaus: one of the most important Swiss collections of modern art p Martigny, Fondation Pierre Gianadda: art, archaeology and a fine sculpture park p Aarau, Aargauer Kunsthaus: young artists in a stylish extension by Herzog & de Meuron MySwitzerland.com, Webcode: BM25153 my Switzerland 60 Touring my Switzerland 61 Touring Be our guest Hotels along the Grand Tour Pick of the pit stops. Villa Orselina Ö Orselina-Locarno, Ticino After an eventful day of touring, you’ll appreciate a welcoming hotel where you can relax in comfort, dine in style and relive the day’s adventures. The hotels on these pages are perfect: ideally located at key sites along the Grand Tour, each one has a special treat in store for touring guests. Located high above Locarno, sunny Villa Orselina charms guests with its stylish rooms, glorious views over Lake Maggiore, outdoor pool set in lush grounds and its own tennis court. The modern spa offers a wide range of tempting treatments; Grand Tour guests can look forward to a soothing 20-minute neck massage, free of charge. 5 www.villaorselina.ch Gstaad Palace Ä Gstaad, Bern-Bernese Oberland Hotel Landhaus Ô Münster-Geschinen, Valais Towering over Gstaad like a castle, this incomparable luxury hotel offers breathtaking views over the mountains and valley. The exclusive spa is the ideal place to relax after a long drive. Guests on a Grand Tour also receive a hiking map from the concierge with personal tips; staff will wash the car windows ready for the next stage of the journey. This comfortable and friendly hotel, built in traditional chalet style with spacious lawns and a lush natural setting, is run by the owning family. The restaurant serves local specialities and exclusively Valais wines. Guests on the Grand Tour will appreciate the warm fleece blanket on a visit to the ice grotto in the Rhone Glacier. 1 www.palace.ch 6 www.landhaus-muenster.ch Seerose Resort & SpaÕ Meisterschwanden, Aargau Grand Hôtel du Lac Ä Vevey, Lake Geneva Region This stylish hotel on the shore of Lake Hallwil lies beside a nature reserve. The welcoming Cocon Thai Spa combines traditional Thai treatments with modern design; various restaurants serve delicious Thai and other specialities. Touring guests receive a snack for the road with regional products such as apple juice and an energy bar. Built in art nouveau style on the shore of Lake Geneva, this gem of a hotel boasts a large garden with swimming pool, an attractive spa and gourmet cuisine featuring typical dishes and wines from the region. Grand Tour guests will set off again with a sparkling windscreen and a cool music CD, “Grand Hôtel du Lac”, for the road. 2 www.seerose.ch 7 www.ghdl.ch Campus Hotel Hertenstein Õ Weggis, Lucerne-Lake Lucerne Region Der Teufelhof Baselà Basel, Basel Region Thanks to the hotel’s superb location on Lake Lucerne, guests enjoy glorious views of the lake and mountains from their stylish rooms. Attractions include the lakeside sunbathing lawn, the nature trail through the grounds, and pedalos and a kayak for guests’ use. Everyone on the Grand Tour receives a welcome drink with a cheese-and-meat platter. The welcoming Teufelhof is one of the city’s most innovative cultural and social venues, combining hotels, restaurants, theatre and art all under one roof. It lies in the heart of the Old Town, and consists of two connected 18 th-century houses. Guests on the Grand Tour receive a pack of sweet goodies and a fresh drink for the road. 3 www.campus-hotel-hertenstein.ch 8 www.teufelhof.com Capricorns Wergenstein, Graubünden 8 The name of this hotel refers to the local celebrities: a colony of ibex, the emblematic mountain goat of the Alps, lives nearby. The location is superb, the views are glorious. The Restaurant Capricorns serves creative cuisine from the region. Grand Tourers receive a Capricorns lunch snack for the road containing tasty local products. 2 3 Discover other relaxing hotels for touring: Webcode: 69133 7 4 www.capricorns.ch my Switzerland 62 Touring my Switzerland 63 Touring 1 4 6 5 Tips to smooth the way Explore and enjoy. Get advice and book. With is endless scenic diversity, Switzerland seems to be made for touring. Whether you opt for a cool convertible, a powerful motorbike or a comfortable train, you’ll find the following offers promise an unforgettable journey of discovery. With our extensive knowledge of Switzerland, we can help you plan the best possible holiday. Call: 00800 100 200 30 (international toll-free*) Grand Train Tour Travel in comfort * Local charges may apply. The Grand Train Tour of Switzerland links Switzerland’s most beautiful scenic routes. These panoramic journeys include sections by bus and boat as well as by train and can be enjoyed year-round. p Tips and information about travelling to Switzerland. Whether you plan to come by plane, train or car, Switzerland has the best possible international connections. p Grand Tour package Enjoy the ride Enjoy the Grand Tour over nine days: book a package including all hotel accommodation in the category of your choice, with or without hire car. Take advantage of special deals at the official Grand Tour hotels and benefit from comprehensive travel documentation. p p ap Touring Map GRAND TOdUR of Switzerlan Travel in comfort and enjoy every moment of the journey. A well-served public transport network makes exploring Switzerland fun – and offers total flexibility. p MySwitzerland.com, Webcode: 25349 Telephone 00800 100 200 30 MySwitzerland.com, Webcode: 213022 Grand Tour map and . 1 : 275 000 Schweiz . Switzerl MySwitzerland.com, Webcode: 25321 MySwitzerland.com, Webcode: 67715 Find accommodation The special road map from Hallwag Kümmerly + Frey with marked route is the ideal travel companion on the Grand Tour of Switzerland. From stylish spa hotels to authentic mountain inns and rural farms, the choice of accommodation in Switzerland is vast. Booking is quick and easy. p p MySwitzerland.com, Webcode: 211695 Harley-Davidson MySwitzerland.com, Webcode: 25384 Judge for yourself Experience the ultimate riding adventure with Harley-Davidson® Authorized Rentals. Whatever your plans – anything from a day trip to a journey of several weeks – you can book the latest Harley-Davidson® models quickly and easily online. Find out about a hotel quickly and easily from personal ratings. After your stay, post your own rating – and help maintain the high standard of Swiss hospitality. p p MySwitzerland.com, Webcode: 210968 Europcar MySwitzerland.com, Webcode: 9874 Stay informed Europcar is Switzerland’s no. 1 car rental company. More than 80 rental locations have up to 4,500 vehicles ready. From small cars to people carriers, from luxury limousines to off-road vehicles and from convertibles to 4x4s, we have the right rental car for every need. p Interested in Swiss current affairs? Visit our news and info website for the latest on Swiss politics, society, culture, the economy and science – in ten languages. p www.swissinfo.ch MySwitzerland.com, Webcode: 324243 my Switzerland 64 Touring my Switzerland 65 Touring Switzerland Tourism recommends Digital Switzerland Strategic premium partners Publisher Switzerland Tourism Tödistrasse 7 Postfach 8027 Zurich Switzerland Editor Livia Eberhard, Switzerland Tourism Swiss Chocolate chocolatfrey.com The trade association of the Swiss hotel industry hotelleriesuisse.ch The airline of Switzerland swiss.com Financial services ubs.com Switzerland by train, bus and boat SwissTravelSystem.com Strategic partners Design Festland AG, St. Gallen / Zurich Switzerland Tourism, Zurich Photographs Cover: Nico Schaerer Travel journal Sebi and Paul: Ladina Bischof (without pages 42 and 50) Page 2: Ivo Scholz Pages 40 – 41: Christian Pfammatter, Visp Page 50: Régis Colombo, www.diapo.ch Page 60: Mark Niedermann, Ellsworth Kelly Other images: By kind permission of our partners Printer Stämpfli AG, Bern American Express in Switzerland americanexpress.ch Watches Jewelry Gems bucherer.com Retail and wholesale trade coop.ch Car rental europcar.ch Gateway to the Alps zurich-airport.com Exquisite Swiss biscuit specialities kambly.ch Interest group for Swiss non-hotel accommodation stnet.ch/parahotellerie Switzerland Cheese Marketing switzerland-cheese.com All on your tablet SWISS ARMY KNIVES | TIMEPIECES | TRAVEL GEAR victorinox.com With the Swiss Mag app and our free e-brochures,, exploring your Swiss holiday day options is an adventure in n itself. Official partners Print run 381,300 copies Languages The Swiss holiday magazine my Switzerland is published twice a year in German, French, Italian, English, Dutch and Spanish. Summer is one click away: MySwitzerland.com /grandtour appenzellerbier.ch axpo.com flyer.ch gastrosuisse.ch swisstravelcenter.ch intersportrent.ch grimselstrom.ch mammut.ch snowsports.ch swisscom.com swissinfo.ch swissrent.com Discover the joys of the Swiss summer! Enjoy a taste of the Grand Tour of Switzerland on a virtual journey. Experience the highlights, explore attractions along the way and find inspiration for an unforgettable holiday in Switzerland. More at: p MySwitzerland.com/grandtour Like us on Facebook p MySwitzerland.com/ facebook Swiss Mag app for iPad Install to download e-brochures p MySwitzerland.com/ ipad Mobile apps Useful info, practical tips and inspiring ideas are always at your fingertips with our free mobile apps. p MySwitzerland.com/mobile Sign up for our newsletter p MySwitzerland.com/newsletter topevents.ch visana.ch Best Swiss Hotels www.MySwitzerland.com /strategicpartners my Switzerland 66 Touring Swiss Hike Swiss City Guide Swiss Events Family Trips The Grand Tour at a glance River Rhine Fresh adventure Pages 22–23 Basel, cultural capital al City of living art 1 Pages 57–60 2 3 4 17 18 5 6 44 7 8 9 19 Fribourg One city, two languages 16 43 20 11 Pages 8–9 10 11 12 13 14 15 15 42 16 9 1 12 10 2 41 13 8 17 22 18 21 14 19 20 4 Lavaux In the land of three suns 6 5 32 24 24 27 38 22 23 7 39 21 23 3 25 25 26 26 27 33 28 37 29 30 Pages 46–47 31 40 36 32 28 29 35 33 34 35 34 30 36 31 37 38 39 40 41 42 Zermatt – Matterhorn Ride to the future Alpine passes High road to freedom Page 43 Pages 33–35 43 44 Laténium: archaeological museum and park Town of Murten City of Fribourg Town of Gruyères Gstaad / Saanen chalet village Jungfraujoch Lake Brienz cruises Old City of Bern Emmental visitor cheese dairy Biosphere Reserve Entlebuch Hallwyl moated castle Chapel Bridge, Lucerne Pilatus Tell Chapel, Sisikon Einsiedeln monastery Grossmünster church, Zurich Rhine Falls Town of Stein am Rhein Abbey of St. Gallen Painted facades, Appenzell Swiss Tectonic Arena Sardona Heidi’s Village, Maienfeld Mountain village of Guarda Swiss National Park Benedictine convent of St. John, Müstair Muottas Muragl panoramic peak Albula / Bernina railway line Three castles of Bellinzona Ascona lake promenade Monte Brè Lugano Monte San Giorgio Tremola, old Gotthard Pass road Swiss Alps Jungfrau-Aletsch Matterhorn Mountain village of Grimentz Abbey of Saint-Maurice Château de Chillon, Montreux Lavaux terraced vineyards Olympic Museum, Lausanne Jet d’eau, Geneva Creux du Van rock amphitheatre La Chaux-de-Fonds / Le Locle Town Planning & Watchmaking Town of St-Ursanne Basel, city of culture UNESCO World Heritage 0 The Grand Tour of Switzerland is a suggested route that makes use of the existing Swiss road network. Visitors follow the route at their own risk. Switzerland Tourism and the Grand Tour of Switzerland association accept no liability for construction works, diversions, signage relating to special events or safety provisions along the route. Grand Tour of Switzerland Motorway Main road Railway Car transport by rail 20 40 km Airport 0 10 20 miles www.swisstravelcenter.ch Our partner regions www.MySwitzerland.com