Québec`s raw milk cheeses

Québec’s raw milk cheeses
MARIE-CHANTAL
HOUDE
CHEESE CONSULTANT
AND
FROMAGERIE
NOUVELLE FRANCE’S
CHEESEMAKER AND
OWNER
JEAN MORIN
FROMAGERIE DU
PRESBYTERE’S
CHEESEMAKER AND
OWNER
AND
ORGANIC DAIRY
FARMER PRODUCER
Québec’s raw milk cheeses
— Overview:
¡ Who is:
÷ Jean
Morin
÷ Marie-Chantal Houde
¡
¡
¡
Difference between raw, pre-heated and pasteurized milk
cheeses
Why choosing raw or unpasteurized cheeses?
Québec’s raw or unpasteurized milk cheeses
÷ How
many, different categories
÷ Difficulties linked to those categories
¡
Tasting
÷ Presentation
¡
Comments
of 5 differents cheeses…. And….
Québec’s raw milk cheeses
— Who is Jean Morin?
¡ Organic dairy farmer since 1985
¡ One fonder of Fromagerie
L’Ancêtre
¡ Owners of Fromagerie Du
Presbytere with is brother
Dominic since 2007
¡
A sympatic and funny guy!
Québec’s raw milk cheeses
— Who is Jean Morin?
¡ Fromagerie Du Presbytere, winner of
several prices
÷ Caseus
D’or 2009: Bleu d’Elizabeth
÷ Caseus D’or 2010: Louis D’or
÷ Best canadian cheese 2011: Louis D’or
÷ Best raw milk, best organic cheese and
best firm cheese, canadian award 2011:
Louis D’or.
÷ Best Blue Canadian cheese 2011: Bleu
d’Elisabeth
÷ Whats is next???
Québec’s raw milk cheeses
— Who is
Marie-Chantal Houde?
¡
Cheese consultant since 2004
÷ After cheeses
¡
¡
studies in France
Sheep milk dairy farmer with her
brother Jean-Paul Houde, since
2009
Owner of Fromagerie Nouvelle
France, since 2010
Québec’s raw milk cheeses
— Who is
Marie-Chantal Houde?
¡
Fromagerie Nouvelle France won
some price at the Caseus Award
2011.
÷ Caseus
d’Or, best Québec’s cheese
2011
÷ Best firm sheep cheese
÷ Best raw milk cheese
÷ Best washed rind cheese
Difference between raw, unpasteurized and
pasteurized milk cheeses
— Different milk treatments:
¡
¡
¡
Pasteurized milk:
÷ Heat treatment, ultrafiltration or microfiltration
¢ Ex. 72,8oC for 15 sec or 63 oC for 30 min.
÷ Reduce from 99,5% to 100% the microflora of
the milk
÷ 80 to 85% of all cheeses
Raw milk:
÷ No heat treatment over 40oC prior fabrication
÷ No microfiltration prior to fabrication
÷ Conservation 100% of natural flora of the milk
÷ Max of 5 % of cheeses
Unpasteurized milk:
÷ Also called Thermised or preheated milk
÷ In between of pasteurised and raw milk.
÷ Conserve 5 to 15% of natural microflora of milk.
÷ 10-15% of cheeses
Difference between raw, unpasteurized and
pasteurized milk cheeses
— Raw milk cheeses from Québec
¡ 20 to 25 raw cheeses are produced
¡ Decreased in 2008 after listeriose crisis
¡ Mostly farm and artisanal cheese factories.
¡
Example:
÷ Fromagerie
Du Presbytère
÷ Fromagerie la Station
÷ Fromagerie Nouvelle France
÷ Fromagerie Au Grés des Champs
÷ Fromagerie du Pied de vent
÷ Fromagerie Mouton Blanc
÷ Fromagerie La Germaine and more…
Difference between raw, unpasteurized and
pasteurized milk cheeses
— Unpasteurized milk cheeses from
Québec
¡
¡
¡
¡
20 to 40 cheeses, including cheddar cheeses.
Increased after listeriose crisis
Mostly farm, artisanal or small industrial
cheese factories.
Example:
÷ Laiterie de Charlevoix
÷ Fromagerie Ile Aux Grues
÷ Fromagerie FX Pichet
÷ Fromagerie Perron
÷ Fromagerie l’Ancêtre
÷ Fromagerie Champs à la meule
÷ Fromagerie Lehmann and more…..
Difference between raw, unpasteurized and
pasteurized milk cheeses
— Pasteurized milk cheeses
¡ > 300 cheeses.
¡ Increased after listeriose crisis
¡ Mostly artisanal and industrial cheese
factories
¡
Example:
÷ Agropur
÷ Saputo
÷ Damafro
÷ La
Chaudière
÷ Fromagerie Medard
÷ Fromagiers de la Table Ronde
Why using raw milk?
Raw milk: why?
— Good reasons:
¡ The more natural way to produce cheese
¡ Conserve the natural microflora of the milk (100%)
¡ No impact on milk chemistry
¡ For the taste and texture of the cheeses
¡ Faster production (because not heat treatment needed)
¡ The unique terroir expression of a dairy product!
¡ Ecologically friendly
¡ Less raw milk cheese in Canada so good market place!
÷
Raw milk fan!
Why using raw milk?
Raw milk: why?
— But…
¡ 60 days ripening needed… (one exception for < 60 days)
¡ Good quality of milk needed
÷
¡
Good and safe process (fabrication and ripening)
÷
¡
÷
¡
Dramatical cleaning!
More microbial analysis are required
÷
¡
No pathogen
On raw milk
On 100% cheese batch for Canadian certification
More stress
Listeria phobies!!!
÷
2008 crisis!
Why using raw milk?
Unpasterized milk: why?
— Good reasons:
¡
¡
¡
¡
Elimination of some pathogen
Conservation of some natural microflora (5 to 15%)
Less impact on milk chemistry than pasteurization
Less stressful than raw milk
— But…
¡ Less aroma associated to raw milk
¡ Considered as a « raw milk », 60 days needed, more microbial
analysis
¡ 100% cheese batch is analysed for Canadian certification
Cheeses tasting!
1- Riopelle, Coop Ile aux grues
2- Zacharie Cloutier, Fromagerie Nouvelle France
3- Gré des champs, Fromagerie Au Gré des Champs
4- Pied de vent, Fromagerie Du Pied de Vent
5- Louis D’or, Fromagerie Du Presbytère
6- … Surprise! Fromagerie….
How tasting the cheeses?
Tasting
1. Riopelle
1.
Coop Ile-aux-Grues,
1.
Riopelle is one of the best known fine
Quebec cheese, since 2001
Win several prices as…
¡
¡
÷
¡
¡
¡
¡
Ile aux grues
Best Quebec soft cheese: 2004 and 2010
Unpasteurized holstein cow’s milk,
Soft bloomy rind
Triple cream cheese
Ripening time: 60 days to 90 days (75
days)
Tasting
1. Riopelle
¡
Difficulties to produce this kind of « raw milk cheese »
÷
÷
÷
÷
¢
Aging the cheese over 60 days quite difficult
Short shelf life after…
Avoid bitterness
Having good penicillium aging in time
Prevent brownish color
Esthetic (visual aspect)
¡
÷
÷
White bloomy rind with red/brownish spot
Creamy near rind but presence of a core
Tasting
1. Riopelle
¡ Sensory evaluation:
¡
¡
Flavour:
¡ Bitterness and salt
Aromas:
¡ Very lactic (cream, butter)
¡ Mushroom
¡ Chicory
¡ White part of grapefruit
¡ ammonia
Tasting
2. Zacharie Cloutier
Fromagerie Nouvelle France
Racine, Qc.
¡
Created in 2010
¡
Win several prices in 2011
÷
Best Quebec cheese overall 2011
Raw sheep’s milk,
¡
÷
East-friesan
Washed rind cheese
Half-cooked firm cheese
Ripening time: 2 ½ months
¡
¡
¡
÷
Usually: 6 months
Tasting
2. Zacharie Cloutier
Difficulties to produce this kind of « raw milk cheese »
¡
÷
÷
¢
¢
÷
¢
÷
High quality of sheep’s milk needed
Microbiology concern
Every raw milk batch is tested
5 wheels/batch is analysed
Need more sheep milk!
Good quality and fresh milk only
Little wheel lose moisture faster than big wheel, take time to
wash
Esthetic (visual aspect)
¡
÷
÷
÷
Washed rind with interesting draw
White/creamy color of paste
Mechanicals holes
Tasting
2. Zacharie Cloutier
¡
Sensory evaluation:
¡
Flavour:
¡ Salty and little sugar
¡
Aromas:
¡ Butter
¡ Camomile
¡ Coconut
¡ Grilled hazelnut
¡ Animal
Tasting
3. Gré des Champs
Fromagerie Au Gré des Champs
¡
÷
÷
Win several prices as…
¡
÷
÷
Brown swiss
Natural rind
¡
÷
÷
¡
Best Quebec’s cheese in 2006
Organic raw cow’s milk
¡
¡
St-Jean D’Iberville
One of the oldest cheese factory that start raw milk cheese
Sometime grey, sometime orange, changing within season
Yellowish paste and mechanical holes
Half-cooked, firm cheese
Ripening time: 4-6 monts
Tasting
3. Gré des champs
Difficulties to produce this kind of « raw milk cheese »
¡
÷
÷
÷
÷
Milk microbiology concern
Heterogeneity of the rind (natural) which change during season
Aroma change during season
Humidity and fat changes during seasons (because whole milk)
Tasting
3. Gré des Champs
¡
Sensory evaluation:
¡
¡
Flavour:
¡ Well balanced
¡ Piquant sensation
Aromas:
¡ Wood moisture
¡ Mushroom
¡ Cabbage
¡ Citrus
¡ Cinnamon
¡ Acetic and propionic acid
¡ iodine
Tasting
4. Pied de vent
Fr0magerie Du Pied de Vent
Ile de la Madeleine
One of the oldest cheese factory that
started raw milk cheese
¡
¡
¡
¡
Raw canadian cow’s milk cheese
Soft washed and natural rind
« reblochon style »
Ripening time: 60 days to 90 days (75
days)
Tasting
4. Pied de vent
Difficulties to produce this kind of « raw
milk cheese »
¡
÷
¢
÷
÷
¢
÷
¢
¢
÷
Microbiology big concern, because of
sweet curd
Staph aureus
Canadian cow only! Endangered species.
Aging the cheese over 60 days quite
difficult
Short shelf life after…
Problems of pseudomonas!
Bitterness, yellowish color
Raw milk and because of water source
Difficulty to harvest dry hay
Tasting
4. Pied de vent
¡
Sensory evaluation:
¡
¡
Flavour:
¡ Bitterness and acid
Aromas:
¡ Green herb
¡ Dandelion
¡ White part of grapefruit
¡ Peppercorn
¡ Cooper
¡ Ammonia
Tasting
5. Louis D’Or
Fromagerie Du Presbytère
Ste-Elizabeth-de-Warwick
Since 2007
Louis D’Or won several prices as…
¡
÷
÷
¡
¡
¡
Best Canadian Cheese overall: 2011
Best Quebec cheese 2010
Organic raw cow’s milk
Wash rind, cooked cheese
Ripening time: 24 months old (wow !!!)
Tasting
5. Louis D’Or
Difficulties to produce this kind of « raw milk cheese »
¡
÷
÷
÷
÷
÷
¢
÷
Because cooked cheese… microbiology not a big problem BUT
Federation of dairy producers do not accept milk containing
>30000 ufc/mL! (natural microflora low).
Natural lactic acid bacteria… difficult to control!
No sillage! Only dry hay feeding and pasture
Every batch is analysed..
Batch of two 40kg wheels… one is cut!!!
Heavy to transport, muscle needed!
Tasting
5. Louis D’Or
¡
Sensory evaluation:
¡
¡
Flavour:
¡ Very sweet
¡ Very salty
Aromas:
¡ Butter
¡ Oignon, cabbage
¡ Pinneaple, citrus
¡ Grilled peacan, grilled oignon
¡ Beef broth, bovril
¡ Acetic and propionic acid
¡ Metal
¡ Iodine
Tasting
6. Surprise!!!
Association of…
¡
÷
÷
Fromagerie Du Presbytère
Fromagerie Nouvelle France
To create someting original, new..
¡
÷
÷
(thank you Dane Huebner! :o)
Blend of sheep and cow’s milk!
Blend of Zacharie Cloutier and Louis D’or
receipe
Big 40 kg wheel, washed rind, raw cooked
cheese
No name yet (Jean-Marie)
¡
¡
¡
÷
Suggestions needed ;o)
Tasting
6. Surprise!!!
Difficulties to produce this kind of « raw milk cheese »
¡
÷
Need more sheep milk!
Tasting
6. Surprise!!!
¡
Sensory evaluation:
¡
Flavour:
¡ Sweet, salt missing
¡
Aromas:
¡ Butter
¡ Cabbage
¡ Apricot
¡ Coffe, toffe, dark chocolate
¡ Animal
¡ Acetic acid
¡ metallic
Thank you!
QUESTIONS???
MARIE-CHANTAL HOUDE
[email protected]
JEAN MORIN
[email protected]