YVC 3-1.indd - SYS

Transcription

YVC 3-1.indd - SYS

THE
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O N LY
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LIFESTYLE
A
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MAGAZINE
D E D I C AT E D
TO
YA C H T
www.YachtChartersMagazine.com
TURQUOISE COAST
Sailing Through History in Turkey
SOUTHERN FRANCE
Cruising the Camargue
PACIFIC NORTHWEST
Vancouver Island
Plus...
VOLUME 3 ISSUE 1
2006
MegaYacht
Northern
Light
Discover East Africa’s Beautiful Zanzibar Island
A New Life for an Alaskan King Crab Fishing Boat
Catch the Aloha Spirit by Island Hopping in Hawaii
A KIRCAALI MEDIA PUBLICATION
VA C AT I O N S
ISLANDER
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Wish fulfillment since 1983.
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VOLUME 3 ISSUE 1 2006
f e a t u r e s
14
Monster Hunting
Loch Ness and the Highlands of Scotland
The Highlands of Scotland might not be the most obvious place to take a
yacht, but a combination of sea-canals and the largest body of water
in the UK make it a surprisingly accessible destination for all
but the largest yacht, with a history which still echoes today
and some of the most spectacular landscapes in the world.
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Turkey: Sailing Through History
Dreaming of somewhere warm and exotic
Let Turkey light up your imagination. Three great things embody Turkey.
Just a four hour flight away from international London, it has a culture
which is profoundly different, distinctly unfamiliar. A land on the very cusp
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Destination Paradise
Northern Light, heading east to new horizons
Following five successful years chartering in the Caribbean and the
Mediterranean, the sumptuous 151ft Royal Van Lent Feadship,
Northern Light, will embark on her most exotic journey yet:
the sun-drenched islands of the Indian Ocean.
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Zanzibar Island
What makes East Africa is so beautiful
With an abundance of wildlife, coupled with rugged landscapes
ranging from the sprawling Serengeti to lush rainforests and pristine
beaches, the region is truly a destination for the ultimate traveler.
of Europe and Asia, with two heads simultaneously facing both east and
west, it embodies the magic and mysticism of the orient.
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Sport Outfitting & Unique Elegance
Absinthe offers a charter experience entirely sui generis
Cruising the western coasts of the Americas,
M/Y Absinthe accents rugged outdoorsmanship in her sporting offerings,
yet is graced by furnishings and amenities fit for royalty: you!
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VOLUME:3 ISSUE:1 2006
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Cruising the Camargue
The black pearl of the Med
Cruising the canals of the Camargue in the South of France is
to sample a vacation experience like no other, as you enjoy
the local food and wine together with the flexibility, freedom
and fun that only a selfcatering yacht vacation can offer.
YACHTCHARTERSMAGAZINE.COM
t a b l e
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c o n t e n t s
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c o l u m n s
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Caribbean:
d e p a r t m e n t s
Discovery Cruising in the Caribbean
8
Exploratory cruising in a refined English country-house setting
20
Company Profile:
9
Afroudakis
A Greek name meaning the passion for perfectionism
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The Pacific:
Island Fever
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Home Sweet Port
Port Grimaud: Luxury living with a yacht in your yard!
64
Yacht Profile:
Wild Thyme
Bennetti Classic 120ft
72
Italy:
Sublime Vertigo
The Amalfi Coast & Sicily
76
Asia:
The Andaman Islands
Floating in splendid isolation in the middle of the Bay of Bengal
84
Yacht Profile:
Super Yacht My Iris
Aboard for an unforgettable, ultra-chic charter experience
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Northern Europe:
Editorial
Weather the Winter Weather
in Style and Comfort
42
Captain’s Corner
46
Resorts
48
Yachting Trends
56
Resorts
87
Luxury Goods
91
Luxury Goods
96
Gadgets&Things
Catch the Aloha spirit by island hopping in Hawaii
Mediterranean:
Recommended Yacht Charter Brokers
Recommended Air Charter Companies
Positive Attitude
Mohonk Mountain House
Fractional Ownership
Next Generation Villas
Porsche Carrera 4 Coupe
Harley’s VRSCR Street Rod
Gadgets for Gamers
Spirit of The Highlands
Cruising the lochs of Western Scotland
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Pacific Northwest:
Vancouver Island
Live-aboard the dive boat Nautilus Explorer
special: resorts
50 Nassau – Something for Everyone:
A long-time favorite destination for the sun and beach starved traveler
The place is being developed faster than you can say “conch fritter”, though, and the assortment of inns, resorts,
hotels and other places to hang hat and anchor can be a challenge to negotiate.
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RECOMMENDED YACHT & AIR CHARTER BROKERS
Alpha Yachting offers crewed yacht charters in Greece, Croatia, Italy, France,
Turkey, Spain and the Mediterranean sea. We are proud to offer a wide selection
of luxury charter yachts for hire in Greece (group and private charter) to meet all
your needs. All our yachts are clean, fully equipped and well maintained, our crew
members are polite and can help you with all your travel needs, charter a crewed
mega motor yacht, motor sailer, sailing yacht, skippered sail boat, bareboat, catamaran and set sail from Athens Greece to the Greek Islands of Mykonos, Santorini,
Corfu, Rhodes, Crete, Zakynthos, enjoy your sailing holiday cruises in Greece. Alpha
Yachting Greece is managed by Manos Komninos, an established Naval Architect
with over 20 years experience, who is not only a Yacht Broker, but who can suggest
the ideal yacht for your vacation in Greece.
Contact: Manos Kominos +30-210-968 0486
[email protected] | www.alphayachting.com
Angela Connery Yacht Charters ACYC offers you the finest selection in both
sail and motor yachts with full crew on a worldwide basis. If you’re looking for that
special charter vacation experience that will leave you with unforgettable memories
- let Angela Connery Yacht Charters help you with the details of your plans.
Contact: Angela Connery 877 741-4448
[email protected] | http://www.acyachtcharters.com
Beka Cornish Yachting Thinking about taking a luxury yachting vacation? Before
embarking on your search for the perfect yacht, it is important to decide what type
of ‘on the water’ experience you are looking for. In the ever growing charter yacht
section of our web site, we offer our visitors the choice between sail and motor
yachts of all sizes. If you have not chartered before we can help you decide which
type of luxury yacht best meets your needs. If you cannot find what you are looking
for, just let us know your requirements, and we will do the searching for you.
Contact: Sid Cornish +34 971213073
[email protected] | www.beka-cornish.com
Blue Water Yacht Charters was established in 1983. With over 20 years experience in bareboat and crewed yacht charter and management, we are uniquely
qualified to assist in the planning of the best vacation you ever had. Our high
percentage of repeat clients speak for themselves. Discretion and confidentiality
are guaranteed. CYBA
Contact: Karin Garrett 800 732-7245
[email protected] | http://bluewateryachtcharters.com
Charter Brokers of Alaska Custom Charters... First class yacht and sportsfishing
voyages in pristine Southeast Alaska and Inside Passage waters. Wildlife viewing, sightseeing and fishing with captains with a wealth of local knowledge and
experience. Crewed or “Skippered Bareboat ” adventures on one of our fleet of well
appointed vessels - motoryacht or sail. We can tie your charter in with hunting trips,
visits to Denali, remote lodges and other magnificent places.
Contact: 1-888-530-2628
[email protected] | http://www.charterbrokersofalaska.com
Dream Sailing specializes in luxury, crewed sailing yachts from 55ft. based in St.
Tropez, France and the British Virgin Islands. We offer a warm welcome and the
opportunity to taste the glamorous and exciting world of yachting on an affordable
scale. DreamCatcher is our flagship; other yachts are also available.
Contact: Michelle Blore + 33 6 64 03 70 20
[email protected] | http://www.dreamsailing.co.uk
Executive Jet Management /NetJets Executive Jet Management’s charter
services team is dedicated to providing you with the attention you deserve and the
responsiveness you demand. A fleet of over 80 aircraft across the United States,
convenience and comfort, safety and security, ultra-personalized service and professionalism - air travel on your own terms. Executive Jet Management is a NetJets
company with 40 years of aviation expertise. (A Berkshire Hathaway company)
Contact: Jeff Cropper 877 356-5387
[email protected] | http://www.ejmjets.com
Golden Yachts offers a fleet of seven luxurious motor yachts, including the 83m
megayacht m/y O’MEGA. Experience combined with concentration to the finest
details, along with highly trained crew is what has made Golden Yachts a leader in
the yacht charter market throughout the East and West Mediterranean.
Contact: Iro Orri +30 210 967-3203
[email protected] | http://www.goldenyachts.gr
Luxurious Lifestyles at Sea program is a new and exciting opportunity to experience the outstanding lifestyle of private yacht ownership combined with exceptional
levels of service and support. The “at Sea” program allows your dream of owning
a truly luxurious motor, sport fishing or saiiling yacht to come true. Through a fractional ownership program similar to that offered for corpaorate jets, you will enjoy
exceptional yachting experiences without the time, expense and worry associated
with individual yacht ownership.
Contact: 1-866-577-7701
http://www.llatsea.com
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Marcrista offers luxury cruising and relaxed sailing to remote pristine reefs and
tropical island destinations. Your fully crewed charter on Marcrista is personalised
and can include attention to your special interests – sailing, snorkelling, diving,
adventure cruises, romantic honeymoons, game fishing, marine photography, marine
biology, seabird life, isolated reefs, frontier wilderness locations, pristine sand cays,
lush tropical rainforested islands, coastal rainforests, the south pacific’s best reefs,
historical cultural aboriginal tours, outback wild life and fishing safaris.
Contact: Mobile 0418 339 753
[email protected] | http://www.marcrista.com.au
Ocean Charters yacht accommodations are standard to five star deluxe. Boats
and yachts range in size from 35 feet to 200 feet, power or sail. This is the secret
alternative to the cruise! Crewed yachts provide vacations and a price range to fit
each and every budget. We personalize itineraries allowing the client to pick and
choose their stops. A crewed charter at any level allows for relaxation, basking in
the sun or cruising from island to island with the highest level of personal service
a vacation can offer.
Contact: Susan Wallace Whiteman 800 922-4833
[email protected] | http://www.oceancharters.com
Ocean Cruise large yachts since 1985. Luxury Yachts Worldwide
Partners for a Yachting Life. Charter services: more than 300 yachts worldwide,
mostly personally inspected by us; cruising areas worldwide; selection of the most
suitable yacht and crew; preparation of contracts; stakeholders of your payments;
meticulous charter preparation (special requests, transfers, etc.); stringent check of
yacht chartered and performance check.
Contact: Capt. Rags Wheldon 954 524-9366
[email protected] | http://www.ocyachts.com
Paradise Yacht Charter specializes in locating private yachts for both corporate
and personal entertaining throughout the world. We spend weeks every year traveling throughout the world inspecting these yachts, meeting their crews and making
sure that they meet our standards for luxury yacht chartering. Whatever power
yacht or sailing yacht you choose and wherever you choose to charter - you can
be assured that we have seen the yachts we are recommending - and are not just
working from a picture book! Our experience and personal service will insure we
find the perfect yacht for your “Charter in Paradise”
Contact: Rebecca Riley
[email protected] | http://www.paradiseyachtcharters.com
Peter Insull Yacht Marketing ensures that you have none of the cares yet all the
pleasure that comes with cruising on the world’s finest yachts. The success of a
charter depends upon matching the right yacht, the right crew and the right cruising
area to the differing requirements of individual clients. With many years’ experience
in the chartering of large yachts we are uniquely placed to help you with every
detail, from on-board entertainment and leisure facilities, food and drink, to help
and advise on co-ordinating flights and transfers and the planning of your cruising
itinerary. There is simply no substitute for experience.
Contact: Fiona Maureso +33 (0)4 9334 4455
[email protected] http://www.insull.com
SeaDream Yacht Club Twin, luxury megayachts, SeaDream I & II rated by Conde
Nast readers as best at sea for Service and Cuisine. The award winning yachts
accommodate up to 55 couples for special events such as incentives, meetings,
family reunions, birthdays or anniversaries in the Caribbean, Mayan Riviera or
Mediterranean!
Contact: Bob Lepisto 305 631-6100
[email protected] | http://www.seadreamcharter.com
South Seas International Yacht Broker In pochi anni e con l’aiuto di preziosi
collaboratori ne fa una delle società più quotate in Italia. Oggi l’ufficio, situato alle
spalle di uno dei più antichi borghi marinari del Mediterraneo, può far fronte ad un
vasto mercato, la società, infatti, si avvale della competenza e della professionalità
che i titolari, Danilo e Davide del Tufo, hanno ereditato dai lunghi anni di attività
svolti dal padre e grazie alla quale soddisfano le esigenze dei clienti, sia con il
brokeraggio che con il charter delle imbarcazioni gestite.
Contact: +39 081 245.24.01
[email protected] | http://www.southseas.com
Stabbert Maritime offers expedition yacht charters for discriminating travelers
seeking first class adventure while enjoying the ultimate in luxury yachting. Stabbert
Maritime has over 50 years of experience in providing expedition charters around
the world. Take a look and see how they may accommodate your charter dreams.
They provide quality vessel management service for select yacht owners and have
undertaken numerous overhaul and refit projects. See what their engineering and
management expertise can do for you.
Contact: 212 541-6950
[email protected] | http://www.venture-pacific.com
The Club at Emerald Bay Nestled on the shores of a tranquil cove and crescent-shaped beach, overlooking the turquoise waters of the Atlantic Ocean and
Emerald Bay, lies the most spectacular residential resort community in all of The
Bahamas-Emerald Bay Great Exuma. This 470-acre community redefines tropical elegance while capturing the island’s easy-going charm with grand private
residences, the impeccable Four Seasons Resort and every imaginable amenity of
a luxurious Caribbean lifestyle. Discover a boater’s haven, a golfer’s dream and a
beach lover’s paradise. Discover your perfect piece of heaven at Emerald Bay Great
Exuma. Welcome.
Contact: 1-866-EMERALD
www.theclubatemeraldbay.com
The Sacks Group The Sacks Group Yachting Professionals is a leader in luxury
yacht vacations worldwide on vessels from 60’ to over 200’. Choose from over 1,500
yachts and cruise to classic destinations or exotic locales. Services also include
charter marketing, yacht brokerage and new construction, call (954) 764-7742 or
visit www.sacksyachts.com.
Contact: 206 547-6161
http://www.sacksyachts.com | [email protected]
Trimarine We specialize in large groups of up to twenty. Most of our groups are
divers or contain divers, though some are not. There will always be scuba instructors on board. Large families, friends, YPO’s, clubs and affinity groups all come. We
also run some Headboat trips for individuals to join.
Contact: Annie 800 648-3393, or 284 494-2490
[email protected] | http://www.BVIsailing.com
TSH One Aero We are cooperating with a selection of reputable and certified air
charter operators worldwide. They work with efficiency and discretion providing
our clients with the highest level of safety and comfort. As your charter broker we
arrange your trip making sure you get the best possible price and the best service.
Contact: Thierry S. Huguenin +1 242 677 8702
[email protected] | http://www.smartaircharter.com
Valef Yachting Valef Yachts offers the largest fleet of crewed yachts for charter
in Greece. There are more than 400 yachts, motor yachts, motor sailers and sailing
yachts, accommodating 4 to 49 passengers in comfort. We offer permanent fully
trained and experienced multilingual crews. Valef Yachts ensures excellent quality
and reasonable prices on all food and beverage orders. Ask for our “private jet”
charters.
Contact: 800 223-3845
[email protected] | http://www.valefyachts.com
Voyage Charters offers exclusive multiple award winning performace cruising
catamarans. Luxury sailing vacations available in the British Virgin Islands, Spanish
Balearic Islands and the Bahamas. Crewed charters, bareboat charters and skippered charters.
Contact: 410-956-1880
[email protected] | www.voyagecharters.com
Yachting Greece has an extensive knowledge of Greek charter yachts that make
it the best choice when it comes to a yachting holiday in Greece. Understanding and
fulfilling charterers’ requirements is their chief goal.
Contact: +30 210 3233057
[email protected] | www.yachtingreece.gr
YACHTING PARTNERS INTERNATIONAL can help make your dreams real when
it comes to luxury yachting. Founded in 1972, they are one of the world’s premier
yacht brokerage houses, with over 150 years’ combined experience in the marine
business. Their services embrace everything from yacht chartering, acquisitions and
sales to construction and management and are based on a meticulous, first-hand
knowledge of today’s luxury yachting world.
Contact: 800 626 0019 (UK) +44 0 1273 571722 (French) +33 0 4 93 34 01 00
[email protected] [email protected] | http://www.ypi.co.uk
YCO The YCO Charter Management division takes pride in understanding
what makes a successful yacht charter truly great. Our first-hand knowledge of the
world’s finest charter locations, coupled with access to the world’s finest yachts,
guarantees you a yacht and an itinerary that will perfectly suit your expectations
and desires. The YCO Charter Marketing division draws on our experience to manage your yacht’s calendar, maximizing charter potential to fully capitalize on your
expenditure without compromising your own yachting enjoyment. With our powerful
marketing campaigns, you’re safe in the knowledge that we’re reaching every
potential charter client, worldwide.
Contact: +377 93 50 12 12
[email protected] | http://www.ycoyacht.com
NOTE: THIS LIST IS PROVIDED AS AN ADDITIONAL SERVICE TO OUR READERS. THE PUBLISHER DOES NOT ASSUME ANY LIABILITY FOR ERRORS OR OMISSIONS.
Afroudakis Yachting is your best choice to escape routine or make an unforgettable present for those who you love...Our Greece mega yachts and motor yachts
will take you to a cherished journey. Choose one of the luxury yachts to make your
dream come true. Our Greece mega yachts are the most suitable way to enjoy
an occasion with a great company. Our motor yachts are the most fabulous and
luxury yachts for two. You’ll never be able to forget your exciting journey due to our
comfortable Greece mega yachts. Our motor yachts combine style, performance and
affordability. Get the best from our luxury yachts!
+030-6974-770050
[email protected] | http://afroudakisyachting.com
GUEST EDITORIAL
Publisher Fuat Kircaali
[email protected] | 201 802-3001
EDITORIAL
Editor at Large Jeremy Geelan
Managing Editor Seta Papazian
Associate Editor Vasif Sayil
Contributing Editor Stevan Roberts
International Editor Tami Beatty
Assistant Editor Kim Hughes
ADVERTISING
National Sales Carmen Gonzalez
International Sales Miles Silverman
Advertising Director Robyn Forma
Marketing & Sales Manager Jim Hanchrow
Europe & Mediterranean Belkis Alpergun
PRODUCTION
VP Production Jim Morgan
Art Director Alex Botero
Art Production Editor Abraham Addo
KIRCAALI MEDIA
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VP Advertising Sales Miles Silverman
President SYS-CON Events Grisha DaVida
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International Yacht Vacations & Charters Magazine
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YV&C on E!
What’s hot in Hollywood this summer...
BY JIM ARAIZA
YV&C CONTRIBUTOR
Jim Araiza went to Hollywood for an interview with E! Entertainment Television and
answered a few questions for their “Summer Entertainment Guide News Special”. The
show (check local listings for airtime) covers a number of packages on what’s hot this
summer from vacation spots, yachts, jets, to new gadgets – basicically
what you’ll find in the pages of Yacht Vacations & Charters Magazine!
What is it about yachting that is exotic and exciting?
It’s all about “exploration” and the mystery that unfolds as you cruise,
especially in the tropics of the Caribbean. From the oceanside, the islands
look much as they did when pirates and explorers sailed the Caribbean.
There are still old forts and cannons, and shipwrecks. On shore, you see
the real world - cars, traffic, crowds. But at sea, you see the real beauty of
the islands as you cruise from one island to the next. Of course, pirates
could never dream of the onboard amenities enjoyed by modern “explorers!”
Charter guests enjoy gourmet meals, ondeck Jacuzzis, and all the perks of a five-star resort.
What are the advantages to chartering a yacht over just going on a cruise?
Flexibility. In essence, when you charter a yacht, the owner hands you the keys and says, “She’s all
yours!” You become the owner of the vessel, and the master of her attentive crew. You come and go as
you please. On a charter, you will never hear a crewmember say, “Make sure you are back onboard by 5
as we need to get underway.” That NEVER happens - guaranteed!
Why do celebrities prefer to charter?
Pampering and luxury amenities are important, but you find them at any resort or spa. PRIVACY is
first and foremost! When you spend your life in the limelight, you crave any chance to get away and just
be yourself. The paparazzi can stake out a rented villa or a hotel for a glimpse of a star. That’s rarely a
problem with a yacht. Nobody boards the yacht without the express permission of the charterer. Plus,
once you pull away from the dock, no one knows where you are going unless you want them to know!
Can you list some celebrities who have chartered yachts for their vacations?
It’s no secret that many A-list celebrities enjoy yachting. Rod Stewart, Sean “Diddy” Combs, and
others have talked about their yachting vacations on late-night talk shows, and the paparazzi have captured distant shots of folks like Mariah Carey, Matt Damon, and Brad Pitt onboard charter yachts.
What are the hot vacation spots?
St. Barts in the Caribbean is always popular, especially over the year-end holidays. On New Year’s
Eve, the yachts dock side by side, to allow the guests to watch the fireworks show and “yacht-hop,”
going from one yacht party to the next. For solitude, the Bahamas are a fantastic spring destination.
You can pull your yacht up to a mile-long beach with sugar-white sand, and not see another person for
hours! In the summer, the top destination is the French Riviera. St. Tropez, Cannes, Nice, and nearby
Monte Carlo offer European sophistication and old-world charm. YC
V
Jim Araiza is co-owner of SailAway Yacht Charter Consultants. He and hi partner, Jana Sheeder, have arranged numerous
celebrity charters. [email protected]
INTERNATIONAL YACHT VACATIONS & CHARTERS® IS THE REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF SYS-CON MEDIA INC.
KIRCAALI MEDIA IS USING THE MARK PURSUANT TO A LICENSE AGREEMENT FROM SYS-CON MEDIA
Let us know what you think about YV&C by email: [email protected]
YACHT VACATIONS & CHARTERS
9
CARIBBEAN
Discovery Cruising
in the
Caribbean
Swan Hellenic Minerva II offers
exploratory cruising in a refined
English country-house setting.
WRITTEN AND PHOTOGRAPHED
BY YVONNE YORKE
The first Swan Hellenic Mediterranean cruise traveled to the Greek Islands in 1954, and
in 1983, P&O purchased the company and furthered its development as a destination-rich
cruise line, visiting numerous international ports of historical and archeological interests.
Since 2004, Swan Hellenic is part of the Carnival Corp, along with the Yachts of Seabourn,
Cunard, NCL, Princess, Costa and Windstar.
10
H
owever, Swan Hellenic is a distinctive
product and a premium brand. Perhaps
the first thing guests notice when they
step onboard the 600-passenger Minerva II is the
richly-appointed furnishings and interiors set in
a cozy, country-club atmosphere reminiscent of
an English manor house. Thankfully devoid of the
distasteful aspects of conventional cruising, there
are no long lines onboard the Minerva, nor are
there raised voices, piped elevator music, or glitzy
atriums which belong in a suburban mall but not
while sailing the high seas. Everything is very civilized yet relaxed, with well-trained, attentive staff
and a 2:1 guest/staff ratio.
Minerva’s public spaces are designed with
comfort and elegance in mind featuring plush carpeting, Oriental rugs, trompe l’oeil ceilings, rich
wood paneling, and artwork gracing the walls. To
support the enrichment focus of the ship, there’s
a Regency-style library with a magnificent glass
ceiling of painted flowers, leather armchairs, a
fireplace, and over 4,000 books on history, archeology, wildlife, politics, art and biographies.
Dubbed “the most scholarly ship afloat” by
travel veteran Arthur Frommer, Swan Hellenic is
the market leader in discovery cruising. Expert
guest speakers are chosen to bring to life the history, culture, and notable aspects of the destinations
visited. For instance, a cruise of the Amazon basin
might have onboard a former British Ambassador
to Brazil; a lecturer on volcanology might explain
St. Lucia’s sulfur springs; and a wine connoisseur might lead a discussion on the wines of the
Iberian peninsula.
Both the lectures and the evening performances are held in the Lounge. In lieu of flashy
Las Vegas-style musical numbers, Swan Hellenic
opts for more refined entertainment such as
acclaimed classical guitarist Adrian Azeulo, the
Shakespeare Revue Company, and members of
London’s Guildhall School of Music and Drama.
Other onboard diversions include an outdoor
swimming pool, two Jacuzzis, a sunbathing deck,
golf-driving net, jogging track, a fully-equipped
spa fitness center and spa, a card room and an
observation lounge.
The clientele is mostly British with a mix of
North Americans and other nationalities, and
about 40% of them are repeat guests who know
exactly what they want while at sea. In addition to
the draw of the academically-oriented programs,
they are attracted to Minerva’s unusual itineraries
which offer hidden-gem destinations as well as
must-see sites.
Over the course of the year, the Minerva II sails
to destinations in Northern Europe and the Baltics,
the Mediterranean, the Black Sea, Northern Africa,
the Caribbean and South America. Some new, offthe-beaten track destinations for 2006 and 2007
include Alta, on the Northern tip of Norway - a
world UNESCO Heritage Site with 6,000-year-old
rock carvings, as well as Sarande in Albania, and
the Falkland Islands.
With the exception of certain itineraries, all
Swan Hellenic fares include charter flights from
London to the port of embarkation and return
flight to London. Inclusive are transfers, accommodation and meals on board, port taxes, tailor-made shore excursions at each port of call,
entrance fees to places visited, and tips and gratuities to staff onboard and ashore.
On my Caribbean sailing, the itinerary included
the Mayan sites of the Yucatan Peninsula, Cayman
Islands, Port Antonio in Jamaica, Venezuela,
Curacao, Trinidad and Barbados. I chose to disembark and spend extra time exploring Curacao,
the largest island in the Dutch Antilles. Located
60 km north of Venezuela, the mainstays of the
economy are petroleum refining, offshore finance
and tourism.
The multi-ethnic cultural legacy of Curacao is
reflected in many of its distinctive historic buildings, which meld African and Jewish influences
along with European styles. The local dialect is
Minerva II Interiors
Leather armchairs, wood paneling and tasteful colour
schemes create an atmosphere of understated elegance. Stepping ashore is always an occasion – never
intimidating, always welcoming.
Guest Speakers
Expert guest speakers are chosen to bring to life the
history, culture, and notable aspects of the destinations visited.
11
CARIBBEAN
Hotel Kura Hulanda
Nestled amongst gardens, cobblestone paths, and
open courtyards filled with sculptures and native art,
the Hotel Kura Hulanda
“Curacao offers
an enthralling
mix of history,
cultures and
architecture”
Information
To charter this trip or any yacht you see in
this issue of YV&C, please contact any of the
recommended charter brokers listed on page 8.
12
Papiamentu, the best developed of the Creole
languages in the Caribbean – a mix of languages
from African slaves imported during the slave
trade, and the island’s Dutch, Spanish, Portuguese,
French and English colonizers.
The capital Willemstad is divided into the
Punda district in the east and Otrabanda in the
west by St. Anna Bay, which leads to Schottegat
Harbor. The Queen Emma Pontoon bridge, first
opened in 1888, connects the two sides of the
channel. Affectionately known as “The Swinging
Old Lady”, this 168-meter pedestrian bridge
swings open to allow for ship traffic at the bay.
Perhaps the quintessential picture-postcard shot
of Willemstad is the row of strikingly colorful
Dutch-style gabled houses along the Punda waterfront – the earliest of which are precise copies of
mid-17th century Dutch buildings. Nearby Fort
Amsterdam is now partially converted into a bustling promenade of seafront restaurants, dutyfree international shops, and a floating fruit and
vegetable market. Completing the picturesque
waterfront scene are schooners which are tied up
along the narrow canal leading to the Waaigat, a
small yacht basin in Punda.
Another noteworthy aspect of the island is that
it is home to the oldest continuously inhabited
Jewish community in the Western Hemisphere.
The first Jewish settler arrived in 1634, and Dutch
tolerance allowed the Sephardic Jewish community to flourish. By the 19th century, Curacao had
the largest and most influential Jewish population in the Americas. The Mikve-Israel-Emanuel
Synagogue, which celebrated its 350th anniversary in 2001, is the Western Hemisphere’s oldest
synagogue in continuous use, and renowned for
its sand floors and the oldest pipe organ in the
Caribbean.
Project Kura Hulanda, spanning an eightblock historic district along the waterfront on the
Otrabanda side, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The brainchild of Dutch entrepreneur and visionary Jacob Gelt Dekker, and his business partner
John Padget, this environmental and historical
preservation project is comprised of a collection
of 18th and 19th century Dutch colonial buildings
which includes a boutique hotel, a museum, a
conference center and an institute for advanced
cultural studies. To facilitate economic empowerment in developing countries through cottage
industries, the project employs craftsmen from
Africa, India, Indonesia and Colombia to supply
furniture, iron gates and other furnishings.
Nestled amongst gardens, cobblestone paths,
and open courtyards filled with sculptures and
native art, the Hotel Kura Hulanda features 100individually-distinct rooms in 65 restored, pastel-hued buildings. Next door, the Museum Kura
Hulanda is a world-class anthropological museum
featuring a Darwinian chronicle of the Origin of
Man, displays on West African empires, Antillean
art, as well as fascinating exhibits on the history
and legacy of the African slave trade leading to
20th century race relations in America.
It’s clear that in addition to the natural appeals
of sun, sand and scuba which many Caribbean
islands are celebrated for, Curacao also offers an
enthralling mix of history, cultures and architecture. A fitting and complementary end to a discovery cruise renowned for enriching the mind. YVC
For more information and reservations:
1-877-800-7926 or www.swanhellenic.com
[email protected]
About the Writer
Yvonne Yorke is a luxury travel and lifestyles writer and
photographer. Hailing from a Hong Kong shipping family,
she’s a yachting enthusiast and the Mediterranean is
one of her favorite destinations.
[email protected]
EUROPE
Monster Hunting
Loch Ness
and the
Highlands
of Scotland
Can You Find the Monster?
“Nessie”, as the monster is affectionately
known, continues to be enormously popular,
and few people can walk past the loch without taking a moment to check for tell-tale
breaks in the surface.
WRITTEN BY BILL RAY
14
L
The Highlands of Scotland might not be the
most obvious place to take a yacht, but a
combination of sea-canals and the largest
body of water in the UK make it a surprisingly accessible destination for all but the
largest yacht, with a history which still
echoes today and some of the most spectacular landscapes in the world.
och Ness contains more water than
all the rivers and lakes in the UK
put together: it’s over 700 feet deep
and 23 miles long, and the local peat
makes the water extremely murky
and ideal for hiding prehistoric monsters. The size of the Loch can make conditions
remarkably sea-like, with waves generally around
3 feet but often larger. The top of the Loch is in
the North East of Scotland, just south of Inverness,
and along its length it heads South West diagonally following a line known as The Great Glen,
which bisects Scotland in a series of lochs and
stunning valleys, towards Fort William and the sea
lochs beyond.
With so much of The Great Glen already navigable by boat it was an obvious opportunity to
the Victorian canal builders, who could just link
together the lochs to make a coast-to-coast connection and a short-cut from the North Sea to the
Atlantic. The northern coast of Scotland has seen
more than its share of shipwrecks over the years,
not least the remnants of the Spanish Armada
which had limped north to escape the British navy
in 1588, and while one ship canal across Scotland
had been finished in 1790, it was too far south
to be useful for ships coming from Denmark,
Norway or the other Scandinavian countries
Anyone who has seen a British canal will be
thinking of a narrow channel with towpaths for
horse-drawn boats unsuited to anything but the
calmest water, but here in Scotland when they
build a canal they, don’t muck about; and with
government money they could afford to think big.
The explosion of the wool trade had made the
Highlands valuable land, with only the inconvenient presence of local people to disrupt the conversion of the whole area to sheep farming, a situation which was easily resolved through land clearance left a lot of people homeless and provided a
usefully-local workforce of over 3000 Highlanders
for the construction of this epic sea-canal. Taking
almost 20 years to complete, The Caledonian Canal
was opened in 1822, but improvements to allow
the passage of ships of up to 500 tonnes weren’t
completed until 1947. The total length is 60 miles,
though 38 of those are through the natural lochs
of Locky, Oich and Ness. There are 29 locks, with
drops of up to 8 feet at each and 10 bridges – all
of which swing or lift to allow the passage of large
craft. Immediately after it was completed the first
visitors, including Queen Victoria, came to marvel
at the scenery and the engineering, but as a commercial project the canal was undermined by the
success of the railroad which was already linking
the cities of Scotland together before the first boats
transversed the country. Ships coming from the
Scandinavian countries made use of the short cut,
and still do, though today most traffic is pleasure
craft and tours, with Loch Ness being a prime destination.
The Locks
There are 29 locks, with drops of up to 8 feet at
each and 10 bridges: all of which swing or lift to
allow passage of large craft
15
EUROPE
Picturesque Reflections
Loch Ness contains more water than all the rivers
and lakes in the UK put together: it’s over 700 feet
deep and 23 miles long
Urquhart Castle
Originally built by Edward 1st after his victory
over the Scots at Dunbar in 1296, it was used as
a base from which to dominate the whole region
with brutal efficiency.
“it is also
possible
to charter
research
vessels
equipped
with
the latest
underwatersensing
equipment”
16
All of the locks on the canal are manned,
as are the bridges, and the keepers are generally happy to chat about the local area and
lend their experience to weather prediction,
particularly important when setting out onto
one of the lochs where conditions are much
more sea-like. Larger boats have to be careful
not to approach the edges of the loch, though
where there is any risk a series of buoys clearly
marks the navigable channel, and there are
dozens of mooring spots on both sides. Most
charters start off from Inverness and sail the
length of the canal, including Loch Ness, before
returning about a week later, but those feeling
more adventurous can take their own boat,
or a locally chartered seagoing ship, and use
the canal as it was intended: to cross from
the North Sea to the Atlantic. South of the
Caledonian is the Clyde and Forth Canal, which
crosses lowland Scotland at its narrowest point,
a 35 mile stretch which was also intended
as a short-cut for those wishing to avoid the
northern coast. This canal fell into disuse and
became blocked by developments and bridges,
but as part of the millennium celebrations a
massive work of reconstruction enabled it to reopen to shipping in 2002. Not only were roads
re-routed and locks rebuilt, but one staircase of
locks was replaced by the magnificent Falkirk
Wheel, an engineering project to rival anything
the Victorians devised. The completion of the
Clyde and Forth means that a seagoing yacht
can now literally go around Scotland, or at least
a significant part of it, crossing the country
twice and looping back to where it started while
passing some of the most spectacular scenery.
A more pedestrian approach is to start from
either coast and spend some time exploring
Loch Ness and the surrounding countryside.
The Loch is popular with all kinds of visitors,
and there is a wide range of charters and tours
available. Those looking to catch sight of the
monster will be best placed on one of the organised tours which feature boats equipped with
underwater sonar and sounding equipment;
the peat suspended in the water makes visual
observation useless, unless the creature decides
to surface nearby. The Loch Ness Monster was
first recorded in 565, when it was driven off
through the power of prayer by St. Columba who
was in the region spreading Christianity to the
largely-pagan Picts; there are different versions
of the story but all culminate in the saint making
the sign of the cross and invoking the name of
the Lord to frighten off the beast. A book dated
1520 apparently makes reference to the fact that
“Fraser (of Glenvackie) killed the last known
dragon in Scotland, but no-one has yet managed
to slay the monster of Loch Ness lately seen”,
though there are no other references until 1933
when the owners of the Drumnadrochit Hotel
claimed to have seen “an enormous animal rolling and plunging”; it may be argued that as hotel
proprietors they stood to gain significantly from
such a sighting, though their reluctance to discuss it would seem to undermine any concern
of conspiracy. It was this sighting which sparked
off the international interest, and investigations
by various august, and some rather less august,
bodies which so far have turned up nothing
but some clever frauds and some of the bestmapped loch-bed in the world. Despite the
lack of appearances “Nessie”, as the monster is
affectionately known by the locals, continues to
be enormously popular both locally and worldwide, and few people can walk past the loch
without taking a moment to check for tell-tale
breaks in the surface.
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EUROPE
The Highland Club
The Highland Club with views of the Loch and its
own mooring, for your own monster hunting or
just a bit of fishing
About the Writer
Bill Ray, former editor-in-chief (and continuing
distinguished contributor to) Wireless Business &
Technology magazine, has been developing wireless applications for over 20 years on just about
every platform available. Heavily involved in Java
since its release, he developed some of the first
cryptography applications for Java and was a
founder of JCP Computer Services, a company
later sold to Sun Microsystems. At Swisscom he
was responsible for the first Java-capable DTV settop box, and currently holds the position of head
of Enabling Software at 02, a UK network operator
and currently works as a freelance writer based in
the Highlands of Scotland.
[email protected]
18
Aside from the organised monster-hunting tours it is also possible to charter research
vessels equipped with the latest underwatersensing equipment, but most people will be
happier with a traditional cruiser such as those
supplied by Caley Cruisers, who will hire you
a comfortable craft for a trip the length of the
Caledonian and back, as well as providing guidance and training (essential for some of us).
They are based in Inverness, at the top of the
canal, and have a range of boats up to 10-berth,
though you would want to be amongst very
close friends to fill one. If skippering, and crewing, your own boat sounds a lot like hard work,
then you might prefer the Hotel Barge Scottish
Highlander: fitted out more like a country
house than a ship, her crew of 4 provides a full
service to 8 passengers including gourmet food
and visits to all the important sites around the
Loch on a week’s tour, though the itinerary can
be modified to suit you. The more adventurous
can charter a true sailing yacht such as the Eala
Bhan (Gaelic for White Swan), a 50-ton wooden
herring drifter which has been refitted to have
5 cabins into which 12 close friends can be
squeezed, or fewer less-well-acquainted people
can travel in comfort. As a seagoing sailboat the
Eala Bhan can leave the confines of the canals
and lochs to explore the Scottish islands and
coastline, so isn’t limited to in-land monsterhunting, and while being reliant on the wind
might be considered a drawback, it’s rare the
day when at least a stiff breeze can’t be relied
upon. Regardless of the kind of vessel you are
standing on, the landscape is formidable and
it’s easy to understand what successive armies
since the Romans have found it all but impenetrable.
Right on the edge of Loch Ness is Urquhart
Castle, and no spot better demonstrates the
struggle between Scot and Englishman for
control of the Highlands. Originally built by
Edward I after his victory over the Scots at
Dunbar in 1296, it was used as a base from
which to dominate the whole region with
brutal efficiency. When William Wallace rose
against the English, the castle was attacked
and fell; changing hands for the first time
as the English were kicked out of Scotland.
Edward didn’t take this well, and with a massive army he laid siege to the castle and it was
once again in English hands. Over the next
400 years it repeatedly changed hands with
the occupants hardly having time to hang
the flags before it fell again. All these successful attacks might give the impression of
a badly fortified defence, but it was more the
enormously important location: overlooking
Loch Ness and able to control shipping on the
loch, which made it such an important prize.
The last residents, English, finally blew the
place up to avoid it falling into Scottish hands,
though enough remains to make a picturesque
ruin full of history and intrigue. A superb
exhibition covering the history of Loch Ness,
and the castle, is located nearby and there are
moorings right beside the castle.
While Culloden isn’t actually on the Loch
itself, being slightly to the North on the other
side of Inverness, no visit to Scotland is complete without seeing the site of the last battle
on UK soil and the place where Bonny Prince
Charlie’s hopes were finally laid to rest in 1746,
even if the Prince himself escaped despite a
30,000 pound reward on his head. The site has
been re-created, making it painfully obvious
that the Bonny Prince was no tactician as the
legendary Highland Charge works best down
open hillsides, not across swampy moors covered in knee-high gorse.
There are numerous other sites along the
sides of the loch, including stone-age ruins and
natural wonders, and we haven’t even mentioned golf. Every golf course around the world
is recreating a patch of Scotland, the home of
the game, and it is possible to see familiar forms
in the landscape. Golf is taken very seriously in
Scotland, and some of the courses can trace
their history back hundreds of years; in many
cases it is still possible to play a round if prebooked.
For those not bringing their own yacht,
Inverness is connected by air to the rest of the
UK, including the major London airports, and
for those wanting to travel in a bit more style
the overnight sleeper train leaves London every
evening and enables you to wake up, draw the
curtains, and see the mountains sliding by,
though the return journey can be depressing.
And if Loch Ness grabs you and won’t let go,
then you can get a managed apartment from
The Highland Club with views of the Loch and
its own mooring, for your own monster hunting or just a bit of fishing. Or you can do what
I did and just give in to the call of the mountains, glens and lochs, making the Highlands of
Scotland my home. YVC
• Caley Cruses:
www.caleycruisers.com
• The Highland Club:
www.thehighlandclub.co.uk
• The Scottish Highlander:
www.hotelbarges.co.uk/scotland/highlander
• Eala Bha:
www.highlandvoyages.co.uk
Information
recommended charter brokers listed on page 8.
COMPANY PROFILE
Afroudakis
A Greek name
meaning the
passion for
perfectionism
About the Website
The www.yachting-mediterranean.
com pages were created in April 2005 by
Afroudakis Yachting Ltd in Athens, Greece.
These pages present the luxury yachting lifestyle in Greece and all the popular
Mediterranean yachting destinations.
These real time yachting pages, updated
every day, promote a concise and up to date
list of the beautiful classical and modern
yachts for charter and for sale. We also feature some fantastic new projects currently
in progress and have the most current information in regards to business opportunities
offered within the yachting market.
Charter rates are listed as per the official
high season Price List by the yacht owners/ central agent. Low season rates and special offers
are always quoted upon individual inquiries.
Editorials in yacht projects and yacht
designs are presented in the press release
space, serving only an informative purpose.
They are selected to be admired by visitors
as we did. There is no connection between
the owners or authorized parties who have
kindly offered the material to us in the promotional pages with Afroudakis Yachting.
Services on land transportation are promoted as part of a well-structured yachting vacation,
provided by Afroudakis Yachting and associates.
Yachts for sale are listed upon owners’
approval in the Brokerage Section.
The Forum is a free advisory column for our
clientele, owners of yachts or prospective buyers
and yachting travelers of Mediterranean. Your messages can be listed only upon your desire but will
be replied in your personal account in any case.
20
Afroudakis Yachting is a licensed company by GNTO (Greek National Organization of
Tourism) based in Athens, Greece, and was in founded in 1978 by Christos Afroudakis, a
Naval Architect - Marine Engineer and respected member of the following Associations:
•
The Hellenic Yacht Brokers Association (HYBA)
•
The Hellenic Professional Yacht Charters Association (HYPOA)
•
SETE (Hellenic Tourism Enterpreises)
•
ASTA (Association of American Travel Agents)
I
n 1983, Christos returned to Athens after living abroad for many years and established
the naval architecture company AlphaMarine
Ltd., associating a fine team of yacht designers,
naval architects, product managers and engineers
to provide services to the yachting industry with
new builds and impressive refits to a wide range
of mega yachts over 100ft. Alphamarine, firmly
established to this day, still provides full services
in surveys, inspections, feasibility studies, evaluations, consultancy work, design, engineering, the
technical supervision of refits, complete Project
Management (turnkey) for newbuilds, and Safety
Management (ISM/ISPS).
In 1992 Christos sold his share in AlphaMarine
(constructor of the Mega Yacht Annaliesse
launched in 2004) and built his own yacht, the
displacement yacht Lady K.K, for personal and
charter use. Together with the ownership company Afromarine Ltd, he established a new personal
company to retain the activities in yacht management for private and charter yachts and expand in
yacht charter business with a background of a personal clientele. In 2000 his company was renamed
to Afroudakis Yachting with major activity in the
crewed private yacht charter industry.
Christos Afroudakis has extensive knowledge
in the shipping and yachting industry owing to his
vast experience in mega yacht and ship construction/refits. Over the years, due to the extensive
knowledge in technical management and impeccable service and standards provided, our fleet
of charter and management yachts has steadily
expanded to meet the needs of our clients.
Afroudakis Yachting handles the majority of
the crewed charter and private yachts in conjunction with charter yacht management and broker-
age in Greece and steadily increases their share in
the Mediterranean market.
Christos’ passion for yacht design has always
remained the driving force in his desire to share his
dreams. This is why Christos always proposes to
prospective buyers of a custom yacht to benefit the
enormous business opportunities in Mediterranean
and buyers to combine business with pleasure.
Traditionally, Afroudakis Yachting provides clients with memorable yachting experiences filled
with the magic of the Mediterranean. Our family
team at Afroudakis Yachting is committed to providing our clients with the comfort and luxury of a
private cruise, carefully planned and managed with
the Afroudakis stamp of excellence.
No one knows the legendary yachting playground
of the Greek Islands as we do.... No one lives in the
whole Mediterranean area more than any Greek
does. Our team participates in all yachting Shows
and tourism exhibitions in the Mediterranean and
worldwide annually to inspect yachts and crew, to
retain a close business relationship with the owners
and central agents, to learn the news in the market.
Within our pages you can browse for a wide
variety of charter yachts in the Mediterranean and
find special vacation offers and business opportunities. Our family team combines the extensive
knowledge of our products, the professionalism,
and the meraki* to respond perfectly to our clients’ personal needs. We will confirm that we are
fast, efficient and caring.
In our pages in www.yachting-mediterranean.
com you may browse for a wide variety of charter
yachts in the Mediterranean offered for charter or
sale and same time you seek for vacation offers to
benefit, if you wish, from business opportunities
in Mediterranean. YVC
Our fleet consists of over 150 charter yachts from $ 6000/week - $ 840,000/week !
Our yachts based in Greece are performing charters in all Mediterranean !
m/y Lady KK 100ft 6 cabins 12 guests
from $ 44,800/week
m/y Elias 90ft 5 cabins 10 guests
from US $ 44,800/week
m/s Odyssey 100ft 7 cabins 14 guests
from US $ 32,500/week
Cruise the Greek islands and enjoy the beauty of picturesque landscapes, historical places
monuments. Swim in crystal and safe waters... No one knows Greece better than we do…
Head Office : 14, Sirinon str. P.Faliro Athens 175 61 Greece
Tel. : +30-210-9883595 +30-210-9813667 +30-210-9838236 Fax : +30-210-9883277
e-mail : [email protected] www.afroudakisyachting.com
TURQUOISE COAST
Turkey:
Sailing Through History
Dreaming of somewhere
warm and exotic
WRITTEN AND PHOTOGRAPHED
BY PETER SOMMER
Let Turkey light up your imagination. Three great things embody Turkey. Just a four hour
flight away from international London, it has a culture which is profoundly different, distinctly unfamilar. A land on the very cusp of Europe and Asia, with two heads simultaneously facing both east and west, it embodies the magic and mysticism of the orient. Once
nomads from Central Asia, the Turks were for centuries the middlemen of the world, famed
merchants uniting three continents - Europe, Africa, and Asia, as far east as China. Today,
its people are famed for their warmth and hospitality, a gift of their nomadic ancestry and
Islam’s code of respect for strangers in a strange land.
22
View from Kale
The view from the top of the Ottoman castle
at Kale in Lycia must rank as one of the most
beautiful in the Mediterranean
T
he second great thing about Turkey
is its age. The place is steeped in
history. It’s the site of some of the
very earliest cities, like Çatal Hoyuk,
stretching back 10,000 years. Ever
after it was a veritable crossroads of
civilisations. When archaeologists dig in Turkey
they are confronted by layers upon layers of peoples and cultures, from Hittite fortifications to
Byzantine churches. Before I’d even set foot there,
Turkey conjured up images of all the things that
I longed to see, great sun-burnt plains on which
ancient battles were fought, theatres where Greek
philosophers declaimed, and the marble clad
ruins of Rome’s imperial ambitions.
It’s widely said that Turkey has more and better
preserved Greek and Roman archaeological sites
than Greece and Italy combined. The landscape is
simply riddled with ruins, many of which are virtually untouched. You can literally stroll through
an olive grove and stumble upon a Greek temple
still standing proud, and have the place all to
yourself. Many people say part of Turkey’s charm
is that it is like Greece was thirty years ago.
The third fantastic thing about Turkey is the
landscape. About three and a half times the size
of Britain, it has almost the same population,
leaving vast areas wide, empty, and pretty much
as nature intended. Add to that soaring mountain
ranges, brillant white sunlight, and a vast coastline
stretching along three seas – the Black Sea, the
Aegean, and the Mediterranean – and you have a
truly marvellous holiday destination.
I first went to Turkey eleven years ago, on a 2,000
mile walking adventure, to retrace Alexander the
Great’s footsteps from Troy to the battlefield of Issus,
Didyma Temple
The colossal temple of Apollo at Didyma ranks as
on the biggest and greatest in the Greek world.
23
TURQUOISE COAST
The Gulet Almira
Hand crafted in wood in Turkey, moored in
a quiet cove on the Carian coast.
Celsus library at Ephesus
A monumental library of marble adorns one of
the cross roads in Ephesus. (pictured here).
“ With some
5,178 miles
of coastline,
Turkey is a
paradise for
cruising. Its
south and
west coasts
offer perhaps
the most
spectacular
sailing in
the Med”
24
where the epic warrior defeated the Persians for a
second time. A five-month journey took me down
the western Aegean coast past some of the giant
cities of classical history, like Ephesus, Priene,
and Miletus; deep into the interior through tiny
farming villages where I was feted as an honoured
guest; and south through the peaks and valleys of
the Taurus mountains, where donkeys are still a
favoured mode of transport.
A decade later and my love affair with Turkey
still beats strong. While it was walking that
brought me to Turkey, today I prefer a very different way of travelling: sailing. With some 5,178
miles of coastline, Turkey is a paradise for cruising. Its south and west coasts offer perhaps the
most spectacular sailing in the Mediterranean,
full of craggy coves and sleepy fishing villages,
bustling harbours and deserted bays shaped like
giant theatres with breathtaking vistas. Littered
with antiquities, protected by law, large sections
of it have remained undeveloped, still lapped by
the clear waters on which the giants of ancient
history sailed: Achilles, Cleopatra, Julius Caesar...
In places, mountains of limestone drop
sheer into the sea, elsewhere pine-forested
peninsulas stretch out like sinuous fingers, hiding a cornucopia of golden beaches, deep gulfs,
and tiny offshore islands. With such a stunning
everchanging backdrop, I can’t think of a better
way to see Turkey, to explore its culture, discover such rich ruins, and drink in the landscape,
than to set sail on a gulet. Spared the need to
constantly pack, unpack, and change hotels,
instead one travels in luxurious style. Perhaps
the key thing for me is that it’s travel the way the
ancients usually did. It makes thinking about
the past altogether easier. Out on the waves,
time can literally dissolve in the water, two millennia can disappear from the mind.
A mad keen sailor, Peter Ustinov once wrote:
“The sea not only sharpens a sense of beauty
and of alarm, but also a sense of history. You are
confronted with precisely the sight which met
Caesar’s eyes, and Hannibal’s, without having
to strain the imagination by subtracting television aerials from the skyline and filling in the
gaps in the Collosseum...off the magical coast of
Turkey you rediscover what the world was like
when it was empty...and when pleasures were
as simple as getting up in the morning...and
every day is a journey of discovery.”
Gulets are really the vessel of choice for exploring the Turkish coast. Handbuilt from wood, usually pine from local forests, they’re often as much
as 80 feet long and sleep between six and 16 guests
in attractive double or twin cabins. They tend to
have three or four capable and helpful crew members, captain, cook, and one or two mates, who
do all the work allowing passengers to relax. Most
gulets have a spacious main saloon, a large rear
deck where meals are served, and sun loungers on
the roof at the front. The majority operate for the
most part under motor, but some are also designed
for proper sailing. When the sails go up, and the
engine turns silent, you have the same soundtrack
as Odysseus on Homer’s “wine dark sea”, the slapping of water on the side of the ship, and the wind
rushing through the canopy.
Aboard a gulet, one travels in the footsteps of ancient Greek pilgrims en route to an
oracular temple like Didyma, or in the wake of
Byzantine merchants carrying a cargo of glass,
like the Serce Limani shipwreck now in Bodrum
museum, or like Roman tourists on their way to
see the Mausoleum of Halicarnassus, one of the
seven ancient wonders of the world.
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TURQUOISE COAST
“ I can’t think of a better way to
see Turkey than to set sail on
a gulet... Spared the need
to constantly pack,
unpack, and change
hotels, instead
one travels in
luxurious
style”
Kaputas Beach
A natural cleft in the sheer mountains of Lycia
offers a perfect beach for relaxing and swimming.
26
I remember the first time I visited the ancient
city of Knidos, a sensational site for maritime
trade perched at the very tip of the Datca
peninsula, between Bodrum and Marmaris.
We sailed and moored up in the city’s old
commercial harbour, just as merchants from
Athens, Rhodes, and cities right across the
Mediterranean would have done over 2,000
years ago. My fellow travellers and I gawped in
wonder, as we eased into the ancient port, and
its monuments took shape: the small theatre,
the rows of houses, the miles of fortifications
climbing up a steep ridge. We anchored where
countless vessels had previously – large cargo
ships, local fishing boats, perhaps even some
fighting triremes. Even today the ancient mooring stones where they tied up are still visible,
projecting out from the harbour walls.
One of the defining characteristics of a gulet
trip is the back-to-nature appreciation of the
simple things: the clean fresh air, the canopy
of stars at night, the time to lounge about and
read. Swimming in the crystal waters of the
celebrated turquoise coast is of course one of
the frequent highlights, and there are usually
windsurfers, kayaks, and snorkelling gear available for the slightly more adventurous.
Alongside the archaeology and the relaxed
atmosphere, one of the greatest delights is the
food. Turkish food is justly famed, often ranked
as one of the three pre-eminent cuisines in the
world alongside French and Chinese. The focus
is all about simple but incredibly fresh local
ingredients, often grown organically or raised
free range. You only have to taste a tomato in
Turkey to see the difference. It’s surprising how
even on the smallest gulets, out of the tiniest
of galleys, the boat’s cook can produce such
a variety of fresh local delicacies. A Turkish
breakfast typically consists of bread, tomatoes, cucumbers, olives, cheese, eggs, yoghurt
and honey. Lunch and dinner are usually one
or two main courses, accompanied by salads
and mezes, Turkey’s speciality starters, including cacik (a garlic and cucumber yoghurt),
biber dolma (stuffed peppers), and sigara borek
(white cheese and herbs in a cigarette shaped
filo pastry wrap). Fruit is a mainstay item, and
ranges through the seasons from cherries and
strawberries, to melon and figs.
But with so many miles of coast, where do
you choose to sail? Three areas are particular
favourites of mine. First is the ancient region of
Lycia, a giant bulge into the Mediterranean on
Turkey’s underbelly. Situated between Fethiye
and Antalya, it’s an area oozing with myths
and brimming with archaeology. Here, behind
the soaring Taurus mountains, an extraordinary culture and a fiercely independent people
developed. Their funerary architecture, unlike
anything else in the world, still litters their once
prosperous ports.
This was the fabled land of the Chimaera,
a dreaded monster from Greek mythology,
described as early as Homer:
“She was of divine race, not of men, in the
fore part a lion, at the rear a serpent, and in
the middle a goat, breathing forth in terrible
manner the force of blazing fire.”
The legend probably owes its origins to an
extraordinary site high up in the hills. Sacred
since time immemorial, it was the main sanctuary of the port city of Olympus. Here flames
TURQUOISE COAST
Swimming off stern
The tiny coves and pretty
bays of the Turkish coast
make for a swimmer’s
paradise.
Sogut Goats
Typical scenery along the unspoilt coast of Caria.
Information
recommended charter brokers listed on page 8
About the Writer
Peter Sommer runs a specialist travel company
offering archaeological tours, cruises, and yacht
charters in Turkey. An archaeologist and documentary
producer/director he has worked on many acclaimed
BBC/PBS/CNN TV series including In the footsteps
of Alexander the Great, Commanding Heights: the
battle for the world economy, and Millennium: a
thousand years of history. His most recent series,
Tales from the Green Valley, about life on a Welsh
farm in the year 1620, was shown to rave reviews
last autumn on BBC2 in the UK. For more information please visit www.petersommer.com
[email protected]
28
leap out of the ground, a phenomenon arising from a subterranean pocket of natural gas
which spontaneously ignites on contact with
the outside air.
Not only is a gulet cruise the best way to
explore such an essentially maritime civilisation,
sometimes it’s the only way. Even now, there are
tiny coastal villages which are accessible only by
sea. One favourite is the sleepy hamlet of Kale, on
the southern tip of Lycia. Above a few piers where
small fishing boats jostle, rises a ramshackle series
of houses made from ancient stones. Dominating
the entire scene is a mighty Ottoman fortress built
550 years ago to overpower the Christian knights
of Rhodes and secure the all important sea lanes
between Constantinople and Jerusalem. The castle, however, was a latecomer. 1,800 years before,
a small town called Simena was perched here. Its
small Greek style theatre sits slap in the middle of
the Ottoman castle, and all through the village are
tombs hewn into the rock, and sarcophagi standing ten feet tall.
A second great area for sailing is west of
Lycia, the ancient region of Caria, between
Bodrum and Fethiye. This was the ancient
realm of Mausolus, a powerful dynasty 2,400
years ago. A strategically vital region, densely
packed in antiquity with rich cities, it was jealously guarded and sought after. Alexander the
Great liberated it from Persia, Rhodes sought
to annexe it into her own empire, and the legacy of Crusader castles still speaks of the epic
battle that raged along this coast between rival
religions, Christianity and Islam. Today, there
remains a wonderful blend of architectural and
historic marvels. The exquisite temple tombs
of Caunos, carved into a cliff face by masons
dangling from ropes; the monumental city of
Knidos, famed for Praxiteles’ infamous statue
of Aphrodite, the first female nude in history;
and Halicarnassus itself, site of the fabled mausoleum and the mighty fortress of St. Peter.
A third glorious area for cruising is ancient
Ionia, to the north of Bodrum. Along this stretch
of coast developed a civilisation of quite exceptional brilliance. In the centuries before Alexander
the Great, the dynamic cities of Ionia helped lay
the foundations of Greek literature, science, and
philosophy, never mind architecture.
Under Rome, these cities became ever more
rich, prosperous, and beautiful - full of the finest temples, theatres and markets that money
could buy. The highlights are plentiful: from the
pretty little harbour of Myndos, where Cassius
fled after murdering Julius Caesar; to the marvellously preserved Hellenistic city of Priene,
where the houses, streets, and public buildings
are laid out across a hillside in a perfect grid;
and of course, Ephesus, capital of Roman Asia.
This was one of the very first cities in the world
to have street lighting. The site is magnificent,
a cornucopia of colonnaded streets, agoras,
baths, private villas, a theatre for 28,000, and an
extraordinary library.
If you fancy exploring some of the world’s
finest ancient wonders, spring or autumn is the
best time to go. April and early May sees Turkey
decked out with a stunning display of wildflowers. From the end of May through the start of June
the sea becomes swimmable before the summer
heat scorches, while September through October
is perfect for leisurely bathing. YVC
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©COPYRIGHT 2006
FIRST NEW ENGLAND FINANCIAL© IS A WHOLLY-OWNED SUBSIDIARY OF NORTH FORK BANK©, A $60 BILLION INSTITUTION AND THE COUNTRY’S 16TH LARGEST COMMERCIAL LENDING BANK. WWW.NORTHFORKBANK.COM
AVENTURE CHARTER
sport Outfitting
WRITTEN BY SCOTT ROSE
The newly refitted megayacht
Absinthe offers a charter
experience entirely sui generis
30
Cruising the western coasts of the
Americas, M/Y Absinthe accents rugged
outdoorsmanship in her sporting offerings,
yet is graced by furnishings and amenities
fit for royalty: you!
& UniqueElegance
A
bsinthe. The very name conjures up images of individualistic elite transported in highest
style to where none had previously ventured. Vincent van Gogh, Edouard Manet, Pablo
Picasso and Ernest Hemingway all were inspired by absinthe, a liqueur distilled with the
Old World plant Artemisia absinthium, famed for inducing a singular inebriation marked
by a heightened, ultra-clear perception of the cosmos.
Now, there is an exploration-grade megayacht distinguished by the name Absinthe.
Originally built in Spain in 1973 by Astilleros y Talleres Celaya, she was acquired by Sea to Sky Adventures
and Megayacht Adventures and then given a comprehensive, years-long refit rendering her superior to
many a brand new yacht.
Thanks to Absinthe’s helipad, charter guests may take advantage of Sea to Sky’s “Double Mobility
Concept.” While there certainly are other megayachts with helipads, few of them offer copter sightseeing
of otherwise unreachable terrain and no other offers heliskiing.
Absinthe’s cruising grounds are the western coast of the Americas. During heliskiing season, from
early February through the end of April, she travels along the British Colombian shoreline, her copter
31
ADVENTURE CHARTER
Library
Owner’s Suite
Theater Room
Interior Design
Absinthe’s interior boasts an uncommon visual
warmth, a fulfillment of the vision of
Karin Civitella, head of Civitella Design.
32
whisking skiers up to lofty mountain summits
where virgin boot-top powder fills wide open
snowbowls surrounded by towering ancient
glaciers. Après-ski indulgences may include a
relaxing soak in the yacht’s fly bridge 80-hydrojet massage Jacuzzi with its towel warmer, fiberoptic lighting system and first-class entertainment center.
The ambitious charterer will naturally also
want to book Absinthe during the period from
September to February when she explores
Panama, Costa Rica, and the Sea of Cortés
between the Baja Peninsula and mainland
Mexico. The Sea of Cortés is among the world’s
most wondrous ecosystems, host to California
Gray Whales, giant manta rays, leatherback sea
turtles, and tuna and other fishes in schools over
100 miles long. In Costa Rica, the Monteverde
Cloud Forest Reserve, seen from a helicopter, is
an unrivalled exhibition of nature’s bounty.
The months of June to August find Absinthe
traveling the Inside Passage of Alaska and the
northern coast of British Colombia. While
urbanites are huddled around their central
air-conditioners at the height of the dog days of
summer, the Absinthe’s guests can be enjoying
a champagne and smoked salmon picnic on
a sparkling, deep-blue, massive glacier. Using
the AStar B2 helicopter, they can then explore
spectacular wilderness areas, or enjoy a jaunt
in a sea kayak, marvel at the sight of humpback
whales, or stay aboard to be pampered with a
world-class, spa quality, professional rubdown
in a dedicated massage room.
Absinthe’s interior boasts an uncommon
visual warmth, a fulfillment of the vision of
Karin Civitella, head of Civitella Design. Ms
Civitella says that she favors voluptuous interiors reflecting joie de vivre while manifesting
the feel of a gracious home. She is given to
blending beautiful, classic antique furnishings
with ultra high-tech details. For the outdoor
areas of the yacht, she chose pieces and materials that harmonize with natural settings. Ms.
Civitella further says that her team’s mandate in
designing Absinthe was to bring the refinement
of European style and service to remote areas of
the West Coast of the Americas. If you notice a
fully-developed and integrated aesthetic aboard
Absinthe, it is entirely due to Karin Civitella’s
intense involvement in this project; she even
designed the crew’s uniforms.
Smoked oak wood flooring throughout
the yacht themes perfectly with the extraordinary natural settings that Absinthe visits,
while also setting a tone of great luxury.
Hand-carved solid mahogany, maple wood
and oak furnishings, paneling, displays, and
cabinets give an aristocratic impression. The
al fresco dining table is complemented by
a wet bar topped with prized Brazilian river
stone granite. Many other materials whose
prestige stems from their great beauty and
rarity are found aboard this megayacht. The
sophisticated evening ambience of the bar
area is augmented by the yellow tourmaline
marble top and illuminated onyx in the bar.
All through the vessel there are royal blue
draperies with gold embroidery piping, doubled with voile de jour (Fr. for ‘daylight veil’)
window coverings.
In the sky lounge are Persian style divans
whose luxuriant fabric covering includes
touches of silk, while in the media room there
is a welcoming blue leather Chesterfield modular couch, custom-made in Tunisia. Soft velvets
upholster the red Nautilus dining chairs in
the dining room as well as the Carousel blue
and yellow swivel chairs and asymmetric love
seats in the bar. Bathroom countertops are of
local native-carved pewter; doorknobs are of
brushed nickel. Bathroom fixtures and accessories are from the esteemed ateliers of the
French company Herbeau, and namely their
Pompadour/Gargoyles collection.
Dutch Harcolor Eden/Tulip light fixtures
add an artistic whiff of the moderne: blue tulips
for mood in the common areas and white tulips
in staterooms for ambiance and reading. The
staterooms are beautified by one-of-a-kind,
handmade silk Persian rugs.
All these regal appointments make an
appropriate setting for Absinthe’s many works
of original art. Heidi Taillefer, a prominent, contemporary artist from Montréal, is represented
by “The Horse,” an oil painting in the bar area
and by drawings elsewhere on board. Suzan
Realize the Dream
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MOST EXCEPTIONAL YACHTS IN THE WORLD
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This advertising material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of timeshare interests.
ADVENTURE CHARTER
“Absinthe’s
crew will see
that you are
pampered
before, during,
and after your
activities”
34
Point, an acclaimed artist of British Colombia’s
Coast Salish, contributed a serigraphy collection. Choice pieces of native art placed around
Absinthe’s interior impart a stronger sense of
place, of a West Coast wonderland.
Many of the drawings and paintings aboard
Absinthe depict animals and thus accord with
her mission of exploring unspoiled regions rich
in wildlife. A design developed expressly for
Absinthe, modeled on M.C. Escher’s celebrated
“Metamorphosis,” depicting interlocking images of swimming fish and fowl in flight symbolizes Absinthe’s double mobility concept and is
used on fabrics on the padded headboards in
the ship’s staterooms.
A statue of Vincent Van Gogh also graces
the quarters, placed here because Van Gogh
was an absinthe enthusiast. A myth attached
to the beverage in the early 20th century, yet
was naught but a myth. Thujone, the chemical
compound thought responsible for absinthe’s
unusual inebriating qualities, is present in the
drink at levels such that to ingest enough to
cause enduring systemic harm, the drinker
would first go into delirium tremens. Sage oil,
for example, extracted from the cooking herb,
is 50% thujone, yet was never outlawed. Still,
the disinhibiting nature of absinthe was such
that the poet Ernest Dowson quipped “Absinthe
makes the tart grow fonder.” If you are, nonetheless, disinclined to sample absinthe straight,
you might enjoy its essence in the unforgettable confection that is sabayon à l’absinthe de
Pontarlier
Happily, master chef Steve Ridley is on hand
to prepare whatever delicacy you may desire
to cordon bleu standards. For years, Steve was
the Executive Chef at The Bear Foot Bistro in
Whistler, British Colombia. Praise was heaped
on him by many trustworthy gastronomes.
Bon Appétit magazine said: ““The buzz is that
Whistler offers the best eating of any ski resort
on the continent. Those high standards are met
beautifully at Bear Foot Bistro.” A critic for the
London Times declared that at Bear Foot, he
enjoyed the best meal of his life.
Steve Ridley is expert in Pacific Northwest
culinary culture.
Committed to giving
Absinthe’s guests peak experiences even when
they are not in the mountains heliskiing, he
painstakingly seeks the finest local ingredients
for his creations. Representative might be his
Artic caribou short loin, wrapped in Bayonne
ham, served with blackberry jus and a vegetable terrine. He furthermore has a métier
for pairing wines with food, and frequently
prepares tasting dinners in which the wines not
only harmonize perfectly with the dishes they
accompany but also with each other. As a wine
to accompany the caribou short loin, Steve recommends Penfolds Grange 1998, an Australian
vintage so prized that epicures in France order
cases on-line.
In Absinthe’s climate-controlled wine cellar,
Steve and his sommelier have a resource any
oenologist might envy. Every chateau worth
the detour is represented, including Petrus,
Haut-Brion, and Chateau Margaux. An outstanding collection of fine champagnes is an
embarrassment of riches: Krug 1973 and 1979,
Louis Roederer Cristal 1977 and 1979, Bollinger
1973 and 1975; one feels better just reading the
list. Imagine being able to choose from 1896,
1900, 1908, and all years between 1920 to 1972
of the incomparable Armagnac from Chateau
de Laubade.
I asked Chef Steve how he would meet a
request for Tournedos Rossini. He responded
by saying that using Kobe beef and seared foie
gras with grilled Portobello mushrooms, all
atop a focaccia crouton and served with a red
wine veal jus, he would prepare a world-class
exemplar of Tournedos Rossini.
It goes without saying that Steve’s creations
receive the most elegant of presentations.
Bernardaud, Limoges porcelain dinnerware
and Puiforcat silverware are used for fine dining. For more casual al fresco meals, Rosenthal
Dune china and Italian Mezzo silver flatware
are employed. Wines are poured in Riedel crystal decanters and stemware.
Manning Absinthe’s state-of-the-art, exquisitely designed and furnished pilothouse is
Captain Roy Cooper. Hailing from South Africa,
and thoroughly certified and experienced at
the very highest levels of nautical handling and
management, Captain Roy is at the center of
the soul of the Absinthe experience. He cites
the lure of the sea as a constant in his life. I
asked him about his love of the ocean: “It’s
romantic. It’s dangerous. It’s fulfilling in every
sense of the word. It’s in my blood and is part
of what makes me who I am. There is nothing
comparable. That’s why I go to sea.”
Speaking of how Absinthe handles, Captain
Roy says: “At sea, she moves like a superstar on
ice. In port, she moves gently under your feet.
E X P E R I E N C E T H E P OW E R O F PA R T N E R S H I P
WWW.YPI.CO.UK
M.Y. “ANATOLIA”
48m (156ft) Proteksan,Turkey, 2001 US$ 10,950,000 – Joint Central Agent
M.Y. “LA COVETA”
38m (124ft) Heesen, Holland, 1992 US$ 8,000,000 – Joint Central Agent
UK OFFICE: 28-29 RICHMOND PLACE
BRIGHTON, EAST SUSSEX
BN2 9NA, UNITED KINGDOM
TEL: +44 (0) 1273 571722
FAX: +44 (0) 1273 571720
E-MAIL: [email protected]
FRENCH OFFICE: RÉSIDENCE DE LA MER
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06600 ANTIBES, FRANCE
TEL: +33 (0) 4 93 34 01 00
FAX: +33 (0) 4 92 91 70 00
YPI CREW SARL: LES RÉSIDENCES DU PORT
VAUBAN, 17 AVENUE DU 11 NOVEMBRE
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INTERNATIONAL YACHT BROKERAGE • WORLD-WIDE CHARTER • YACHT MANAGEMENT & ADMINISTRATION • ISM • ISPS • CREW AGENCY • REFIT & NEW CONSTRUCTION SUPERVISION
ADVENTURE CHARTER
M/Y Absinthe General Specifications
Year: ....................... 1973 / Refit 2002 – 2005
(A Major 24-month Refit Started In July and
August 2002 In Florida
(Engines and Generators) snd Continued For
22 Months At Allied Shipyard
In Vancouver, Canada, From September 2003
To June 2005).
Type: ..........Luxurious Expedition Megayacht
Built To Lloyds +100 A1 Standards.
Status & Classification:......... Irs Commercial
Class, SOLAS Safety Regulations
Compliant (12 Passengers).
Port Of Registry: .......................Panama City,
Republic Of Panama.
Loa: .............................................. 201’(61.3m)
Beam: ............................................. 31’(9.5m)
Draft: .......................................... 12’6” (3.8m)
Gross Tonnage: ........................... 752 Tonnes
Displacement Tonnage:.............. 825 Tonnes
(Fully Loaded).
Designer: ................... Sparkman & Stephens
Builder: ......... Astilleros Y Talleres Celaya S.a.
Interior Designer: ..........Civitella Design S.a.
Cruising Speed: ..................... 12 To14 Knots.
Maximum Speed:.......................... 17 Knots.
Number Of Guests: ...................................12
Number Of Staterooms: ................... 9 To 12
Depending On The Configuration Chosen.
Staterooms For Guests:.....The Owner’s Suite
with King Size Bed and Living Area,
Two Master King Size Staterooms,
One King Size Stateroom / Or Two Twins,
Two Master Queen Size Staterooms,
Two Queen Size Junior Suites /
or Two Queen Cabins Plus Two Twin Cabins,
One Nanny Single Cabin.
Crew Accomodations:............ Up To 19 Crew
Members In 11 Cabins, Plus Nanny.
Engines: ........ Two 1125 Hp Caterpillar Diesel
Generators: ...................Two Caterpillar D343
+ One Emergency Generator.
Construction: .....................Welded Steel Bull,
Steel Aluminum Superstructure,
Teak Laid Decks
Diesel Fuel Tank Capacity:..36,486 US Gallons
(138,100 Liters)
Water Tank Capacity: ...........11,004 Us Gallons
(41,650 Liters)
Water Makers:Two, With Fresh Water Making
Capacity Of 10,000 Gallons Per Day
(38,000 Liters Per Day)
Range:........................... 5,700 Nautical Miles
Fuel Consumption: ........65 Us Gallons / Hour
(245 Liters / Hour) At 11 Knots.
Stabilizers: ...................Two Vosper Stabilizers
Air Conditioning and Heating System:.............
Throughout The Ship With
Two 25-ton Compressors.
Heli Jet Fuel Tank Capacity: 2,857 US Gallons
(10,814 Liters)
She likes a firm hand, and I give it to her.” He
points out that the wood-paneled pilothouse
is furnished with comfy seats and unique
antique pieces to allow guests to observe
operations, perhaps while sipping a freshbrewed, exotic coffee while watching the sun
appear over the horizon. “A guest can be
made to feel super-extra special, sipping a
flute of finest champagne while seated in the
ornate Speaker’s Chair, late of the Quebec
Assembly,” he says: “Do not trouble yourself
with the comings and goings of the crew.
Just sit. Be yourself and enjoy this perfect
moment in time.”
Of course, the quality of service experienced by guests is dependent on the
Captain’s professional management of his
crew. Here’s what Captain Roy says of his
style: “My job is not just about giving orders.
It’s also about being compassionate, about
understanding, about giving support when
support is needed. I encourage spiritual
health in my crew. I listen more than I
talk. I exercise unimpeachable honesty and
integrity in all my dealings with everyone.
Therefore, my crew members follow when
I lead. Content in their lot, they make our
guests feel sincerely and cordially welcomed
for the duration of their stay.”
Whether you wish to schuss down mountain tops in a British Colombian heliskiing
adventure or race a Sea-Doo wave runner
atop the Sea of Cortés, Absinthe’s employees
will see that you are pampered before, during, and after your sporting activities. After
your charter vacation, you’ll surely agree
that there is nothing at all wrong with being
Absinthe-minded.
Comprehensive information relating to
Absinthe may be found on Sea to Sky’s website,
www.motoryachtabsinthe.com. The company
maintains a toll-free phone, 1-866-935-3228.
Fraser Yachts Worldwide handle bookings;
Patrcia Saks is in the Ft. Lauderdale office, (954)
712-7118, while Solenn de Braux is in Fraser’s
New York office, (212) 336-7841. YVC
About the Writer
Scott Rose attended Harvard University at Master’s
level. He writes frequently on luxury markets and
travel. His work has appeared in such prestigious
venues as Bon Appetit and Power magazines.
[email protected]
Information
36
www.ocean-independence.com
30 years of experience in
luxury yacht vacations
Best yachts. Best places. Best crews.
Brokerage
Fort Lauderdale
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Antibes
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Charter
Barcelona
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Düsseldorf
Call Ray Weldon in Fort Lauderdale
at +1 954 524 93 66 or +1 800 929 9366
or send an email to [email protected]
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COVER STORY
Paradise
Destination:
Northern Light will change
course in fall 2006, heading
east to new horizons
Following five successful years chartering in the Caribbean and the Mediterranean,
WRITTEN BY
JAMIE MATUSOW
the sumptuous 151ft Royal Van Lent Feadship, Northern Light, will embark on her most
exotic journey yet: the sun-drenched islands of the Indian Ocean.
38
I
t’s difficult to envision a more alluring
destination, a tropical haven of unspoiled
nature, rich with coral reefs and teeming
with bird and aquatic life. An immense
island chain where sparkling blue lagoons
combine with sugary white sands, and trips
ashore to ancient temples and tea, cinnamon and
avocado plantations reveal a colorful culture,
steeped in history. Even better, the intriguing
Indian Ocean, the third largest of the world’s
oceans, bounded by Asia, Africa and Australia, is
also one of the few areas of the world that remains
relatively free of large-scale commercialism and
mass tourism. Lest you think its islands boast no
modern amenities though, be sure that its beauty
and tranquility have not remained secret. In the
past decade, word of the natural splendor and the
geographically diverse terrain has spread, and as
a result, some of the most elaborate resorts and
restaurants on the planet have emerged in the
expansive archipelago.
Obviously, the preferred, if not the only, way to
explore this idyllic watery paradise, is by boat—
which explains why the area has become increasingly popular as a yachting destination for charter parties—especially for Europeans who have
easy flight access to the Seychelles, Maldives and
Thailand. Northern Light’s Captain Scott Johnson,
who helped design the megayacht, and who has
been with her since her launch in 2001, says the
yacht’s expanded cruising area is based on several
factors. He says he expects a longer charter season
in the Indian Ocean than in the Caribbean, and
also less yachts. (The Caribbean, he says, has
become crowded with yachts, so a three-week
season is about all you can expect.) In addition,
the family that owns Northern Light has never
been to the Indian Ocean so “it seemed like a
perfect opportunity to broaden the yachting experience for everybody.” The family plans to cruise
through the Seychelle islands from late October
to November. The yacht is then tentatively set to
head toward Thailand prior to Christmas. The
itinerary is still taking shape.
Currently, Captain Scott, a native of Australia
and an experienced captain who has cruised all
over the world, has immersed himself in studying
the Indian Ocean. “I’m not yet familiar with the
region,” he says,” so the fun and challenging part
for me will be to gather all the information I can to
ensure we have a great and trouble-free time out
there!”
He says the climate at the intended time of
charter is well-suited to cruising because it will
be at the turn of the monsoon season, “when we
should be afforded calm seas and light winds, with
only a chance of showers.” One of the challenges
he will face, he says, is provisioning. This is always
a difficulty in a remote area, he says, so it’s important to check out what is available. “For example,”
he laughs, “fish is not always guaranteed—even
in paradise! So the chef, chief stewardess and I
have to scout and plan accordingly, even learn
the schedule of freight flights from Europe and
the States.” Provisioning to the quality required by
charter guests, he says, means combining locally
obtainable products with the best from the rest of
the world. Of course budgets have to also be considered, he adds, as freight and customs charges
can be almost as expensive as the products themselves.
Long-range planning, says Scott, is key to a
successful charter anywhere, and super-important when traveling to a new destination, as a
busy charter season means a constant cycle of
planning, provisioning, and cruising. “Logistics,”
he says, “is a never-ending chore on a busy charter
yacht.”
This is why crew plays such a critical role.
Scott says he chooses each member carefully, and
that they have been together for a long time and
know how to “pull it all together.” He prefers to
hire crew of different nationalities and interests to
provide as wide a scope and interest as possible.
He encourages them to interact with the guests,
when appropriate, as a way to relax them. On the
other hand, the crew also knows how to remain
nearly invisible while providing the utmost in service. For example, a tiny CCTV camera overlooks
the yacht’s vast oval dining table, and transmits
Heart of the Yacht
A space designed for family entertaining.
Parquet floors and large windows play up the
mahogany interior.
39
COVER STORY
Open/in the Sun Yacht
Space on the bridge deck and sundeck are for
guest relaxation. Here you’ll find toys, tenders
and everyone having a great time getting wet!
Northern Light Specifications
Overall length: ............46 metres/150 ft
Built: ...............................................2001
Cruising speed: ........................12 knots
Accommodation:...................10 guests
Crew: .................................................. 10
Special Features: ...................................
Brand new 30’ Intrepid that is towed
behind the yacht and is used for special
excursions, fishing trips and diving expeditions. And we mustn’t forget the beer
taps on the sun deck and in the upper
salon, that provide draught Heineken,
correctly chilled, to thirsty charterers!
Tenders & Toys: ......................................
1 x 30’ Intrepid tender, 1 x 20’
Novurania Equator tender w/190 hp
inboard/outboard, 1 x 6-metre Special
Craft with 320hp inboard, 2 x Yamaha
two-man waverunner, snorkelling equipment, kneeboard, banana, 2 x floating
mattress, a range of waterskis (including monoskis).
40
to a small screen in the pantry, so staff can “magically” appear at the table when needed, instead of
hovering behind the guests while they’re eating.
Northern Light’s crew is usually 10-strong,
says the Captain, although they will occasionally
add an additional member for a long charter or
a particularly demanding season. As Northern
Light charters for a maximum of 10 people, this
ensures a one-to-one ratio—and a comfortable
and relaxed cruise experience, not to mention a
great time!
The Ultimate in Entertainment
Guests boarding Northern Light feel comfortable immediately. As the Captain says, she is
decorated in a traditional manner, elegantly, to the
absolute highest standards without compromise,
yet she is not overdone. He says there’s no feeling
of “Oh I can’t sit there, it’s too nice.”
Captain Scott says that Northern Light was
“designed from the outset to be an open/in the
sun yacht.” In fact, they placed the tenders and
toys on the main deck aft, a spot usually reserved
for guest dining, in order to free up the bridge deck
and sundeck for guest relaxation. “Here,” he says,
“you’ll find toys, tenders and everyone having a
great time getting wet!”
They carry a 19ft Nautica Rib (great for skiing,
wakeboarding, towing all the toys, including a
banana, donuts, U-tubes, knee boards, skis, wakeboard), two kayaks, two sailboards, two Yamaha
GP800 wave runners and a Laser sailing dinghy.
“We also tow a 30ft Intrepid tender, equipped
with two 250hp Yamaha engines, side door and
shower\toilet facilities, which is great for extended
exploration or snorkel trips,” says Scott.
The sundeck is huge and roughly divided into
three areas: forward is the Jacuzzi and sun pad
area; midships is the shaded bar—with Heineken
on tap; and the aft section is open with sun
loungers and fitness equipment, all shaded by a
suspended canopy. On the right are two built-in
seating areas with enormous umbrellas. “On charter,” says the Captain, “it’s not unusual to find the
entire party up here—all doing their own thing in
their own space, but still together.”
Down the stainless and teak stairs to the bridge
deck aft is the main outdoor dining area, with a
dining table that can accommodate 12 with ease.
The table is flanked by four service stations with
varnished tops. These are used for the breakfast
buffet as well as for lunch and dinner service. One
of these units contains a wet bar, handy for service
and also great for the guests who can help themselves as required. With built-in seating similar to
that found on the sundeck above, the Captain says
it’s another great spot to relax.
Stepping inside from the aft deck you enter the
“heart of the yacht,” the bridge deck lounge, a space
designed for family entertaining. Parquet floors
and large windows play up the mahogany interior.
Comfy blue and white sofas and a large granitetopped stand-up bar –again, with Heineken on tap
– make this a great space to gather. And you needn’t
worry about running out of beer—three kegs of the
owner’s favorite brew are stowed in a special temperature-controlled locker.
There is also a full audio-video package here
with hidden plasma TV and surround sound for
TV-DVD addicts, and you can also plug and play
the camcorder to review the day’s events. This
entertainment space also includes a hidden pantry that allows the crew to offer full bar service or
discreet service, depending on the occasion or on
guests’ requirements.
Descending the interior mahogany paneled
staircase leads to the main deck. Forward is the
master suite complete with a fully equipped office,
for connection to the outside world. Aft is the dining room and beyond a full-height display cabinet
of antique china is the main deck lounge. Both the
dining area and main deck lounge are decorated in
a slightly more formal manner. Both are very gracious, with handmade Tai Ping carpets that have a
diamond pattern of cut silk on a wool background.
Pineapples, the symbol of welcome, are sculpted
into the corners of a central panel, where the yacht’s
compass rose logo is embroidered. The lounge could
be compared to an English club, and has an intimate
feel. Large silk-covered sofas and easy chairs surround a Gucci leather table; artwork and encased
ship models make this a great spot to retire to after
the evening meal. Watch the news, catch up on a
movie on the 60-inch plasma screen (hidden behind
a painting when not in use), or let the kids crash out
to a favorite DVD or get their fill of XBox.
Perhaps best of all, the yacht is equipped
with Zero-Speed stabilizers to ensure comfort at
anchor and underway. Feadship’s quality of construction enables the yacht to run almost silently.
In fact, says the Captain, “guests have come up for
breakfast and have not realized we have shifted
anchorage – or islands – overnight!”
The Ultimate in Accommodations
The owner’s suite comprises a luxurious mahogany-paneled stateroom with king-size bed; a study
complete with leather-topped desk, bookcase and
PC; and a smaller cabin designed for a young child,
including a built-in crib upholstered in baby-blue
satin. A nanny can be accommodated on the cabin’s folding Pullman berth. The owner’s bathroom
is elegant, with off-white, lightly patterned heated
marble floors. From the whirlpool bath, two large
windows offer a view of the seascape.
Below, guests are accommodated in four very
comfortable and spacious cabins – two doubles
and two twins – opening off a parquet-floored lobby
on the lower deck. Paneled in the same richly hued
Honduras mahogany as the owner’s suite, the double
cabins have marble bathrooms with double basins
and full-sized tubs. Each cabin features a comprehensive electronics system including a dedicated
satellite television receiver for an almost unlimited
choice of live or recorded sound and vision.
Ko Phi Phi Don Island Thailand
people, fantastic food and wine, and awesome
views. In Turkey, he loves the peace and quiet,
the great people and the mixture of culture and
religion. “Croatia,” he says, “along the Dalmatian
coast is a wonderful place to cruise; you can
have culture, history and nightlife one day and
complete isolation and calm the next, all at your
own anchorage.” He enjoys life in the Caribbean,
laid back and relaxed, as well as the high life in
St Barths. “It can be a little too relaxed for some
tastes, but with the weather and the water it’s hard
to beat,” he says.
He says his favorite itinerary has been a
Dalmatian cruise, starting in Venice and ending in
Dubrovnik. There, he says, the choices are endless,
from historical sites to complete isolation of island
anchorages. He enjoys cruising up to Skradin to
visit the waterfalls; being alongside the cultural
city of Trogir that really gets going after dark; the
peace and quiet of Miljet; and finally ending up in
Dubrovnik to spend a full day exploring the city.
We look forward to the additions to his “favorites list” once he rounds the Horn of Africa and
heads on to the Seychelles and beyond. YVC
A New Chapter
One thing is for sure, wherever Northern Light
cruises, guests will enjoy a sumptuous home away
from home. The Captain and crew do their best
to ensure that, and the number of repeat charter
guests serves as testament. From specific requests,
such as stopping at the best restaurants along the
way from Sardinia to Naples, to a lavish all-day
affair to celebrate a guest’s 50th birthday during
which the crew cleverly and secretly changed
themes throughout, every day aboard the yacht is
made to be a special occasion.
In the past, the Mediterranean, particularly
Italy, Capri and Ischia, have been among Captain
Scott’s favorite destinations due to the friendly
About the Writer
Jamie Matusow is a freelance writer based in New York.
[email protected]
Information
Northern Light charters for Caribbean winter
2005/6, Christmas & New Year at US
$160,000/week; other months: US $150,000/week.
Mediterranean summer 2006: €165,000/week;
Indian Ocean winter 2006/7: €160,000/week.
Contact: Peter Insull’s Charter Department at
Tel : +33 (0) 493 34 22 42; Fax : +33 (0) 492 90 43 7
[email protected] or www.insull.com
From the Pantry....
A Refreshing Cocktail
Wherever the hot sun blazes, Northern
Light’s crew refreshes guests with
their signature Arctic Watermelon Ice
Cocktail. Prepare as follows:
• First prep the juice.
One 3lb wedge of watermelon
1/2 cup corn sryup
• Cut the rind off the watermelon and
remove as many seeds as possible
(seedless melons are a big help here).
Add the corn syrup and the watermelon to the blender and liquefy.
Strain mix into a container, removing
any seeds-foam; cover and refrigerate until required. (It will keep for at
least 5 days.)
• Arctic Watermelon Ice
1 cup blended ice
1 cup watermelon juice
1 tablespoon sweetened lime juice
1 tablespoon grenadine syrup
1 shot iced vodka
• Blend ice and add the above, in order.
Blend until slushy and smooth. Pour
into 12-oz. glass and garnish with
watermelon.
Note: Leftover watermelon juice can be
used for ice pops for the kids.
41
CAPTAIN’S CORNER
PositiveAttitude
This young can-do captain aims
to deliver the time of your life
The story of M/Y Positive Carry ’s
Captain Whitney Reiter reads a little
like a novel. But while serendipity has
certainly played a role in his becoming
one of the youngest captains of a 142ft
Trinity, it’s his skill, hard work, upbeat
nature, and love of the water that provide drama and adventure for charter
guests.
42
I
t’s the stuff dreams are made of: local Miami
boy grows up with an affinity for fishing and
cruising the surrounding waters. He attends
an area high school and the University of
Miami, commercially fishing and lobstering with his dad during school breaks. After
crewing on snorkeling boats in The Keys, he gets
his captain’s license in order to take guests fishing.
He runs several boats—then runs into an old friend
from high school. The friend’s husband just happens to be a self-made multimillionaire — with a
passion for boats. And, by coincidence, the couple
lives directly across the canal from where an 85ft
Azimut—run by Captain Reiter —is docked.
The high school friend introduces Reiter, now
in his early twenties, to her husband. An instant
connection is made. The husband, also a native
Floridian, knows many of the same people as
Reiter, and shares many of his interests, includ-
WRITTEN BY JAMIE MATUSOW
ing an ardent love for fishing and spearfishing.
The millionaire soon offers Reiter the position of
captain on his new 100ft Broward. Three years
later, “the boss” purchases a 142ft Trinity, and
Reiter makes the leap—at 30 years old—to run the
brand-new tri-deck motoryacht.
A Whole New Level
Reiter’s boss took possession of Positive
Carry—the name comes from a financial term
meaning the positive difference between the
investment and the interest rate—on April 1, 2004,
April Fool’s Day. But the fact that Reiter, who had
never even seen the vessel was expected to step
aboard and take the owner and his charter party
to the Bahamas—was no joke! He had never been
at the helm of anything over 100ft. Now, overnight,
he was in command of a spectacular yacht that
slept 10 and required a crew of nine.
Reiter and his boss arrived in New Orleans
on a Thursday to pick up the vessel. They were
supposed to leave on Friday for Key Biscayne.
However, a last-minute holdup meant they
couldn’t depart until Monday.
“Whoopee!” recalls Reiter. “I had a whopping
three days to get to know a boat of such magnitude!”
But his boss, a risk-taking entrepreneur in the
bond business, obviously had faith in Reiter, and
knew he had what it takes.
So the Captain spent the weekend getting
acquainted with his new vessel. On Monday,
Positive Carry left New Orleans. “On Tuesday,” says
Reiter, “I was somewhere in the Gulf of Mexico,
on the phone, hiring crew and placing food and
equipment orders.”
When they arrived in Key Biscayne, at 6 a.m.
Wednesday morning, Reiter met his new crew,
loaded the boat with provisions, moved the
boss’s 100ft Broward alongside to transfer equipment, and got everything organized. By 4 p.m.
Wednesday, Positive Carry was en route to Cat Cay,
a private island south of Bimini, with the boss and
all of his guests.
“Needless to say,” admits Reiter proudly, “that
was one of my greatest challenges. After accomplishing that, I knew I could do anything.”
Good Preparation
That’s why, back in Cat Cay again, one of their
most frequented venues, Reiter was prepared for
another of his boss’s challenging requests. The
owner had flown to the Atlantis hotel in his private
helicopter, but did not make it back to the chopper
in time to take off before sunset. Not wanting to
wait until the morning to fly out, he called Reiter
and asked him to pick him up in the vessel’s tender. Crossing the Gulf Stream in a tender was not
something Reiter had ever imagined himself doing,
but he left Cat Cay in the Yellowfin at around 9 p.m.
When he arrived at the Atlantis, he helped his boss
load about 10 large shopping bags of crystal and
goods from Cartier and Ferragamo onto the tender.
“Not the best idea, I thought, to load crystal onto a
60mph boat,” says Reiter, but away they went.
They made it back to Cat Cay around 2:30 a.m.
— a 220-mile round-trip—with all the crystal intact.
The next day, the owner gathered the crew together
and presented all the gals with Ferragamo bags and
matching shoes, and the guys, with Cartier belts
and wallets.
“He is a great boss,” says Reiter, “and never
takes us for granted.” Nor does his generosity end
with his crew. The reason the boss was late getting
to his chopper: he was delayed in the line at KFC,
buying 40 buckets of chicken for the dockmaster
at Cat Cay.
Reiter says that crossing the Gulf Stream in a
tender no longer seems like an unusual request.
He has done it many times.
Favorite Destinations
Reiter feels totally comfortable anywhere
in Florida and the Bahamas—especially in the
Exumas, which is where Positive Carry spends
much of her time. He says that the Exumas are a
great destination any time of the year, because
there is protection from the weather wherever you
go.
“For most of our guests,” he says, “going from
Georgetown to Nassau, with stops along the
way, seems to make the most people happy. The
Exumas is what I feel are the true Bahamas—and
what I love about the islands.” He says that the
beautiful beaches, private coves, and amazing
underwater life are what makes the area so special
– not to mention the extraordinary fishing and
spearfishing.
Captain & Wife
Captain Whitney with his wife and Chief
Stewardess, Fiona.
Where the Action Is
It is in water activities such as these that
Positive Carry’s crew really stands out. They are an
extremely active boat and love catering to active
guests. They regularly take guests spearfishing so
they can shoot their own meal. “This,” the Captain
says, “usually results in shark encounters—which
can scare the guests—but usually they end up
intrigued! We always have two crew members in
the water to help with the spearfishing, so the
sharks have never been a problem—just a beautiful sight to see.”
The crew loves to fish for everything from
bonefish to marlin, swordfish to snapper, or “just”
wahoo and dolphin. They flyfish, deep drop, kite
fish, bottom fish, or just troll. Five crew members—including the Captain and his wife, the chief
stewardess—can free-dive; several can descend to
over 120 feet. Slaloming stews and mates love to
entertain guests by doing flips on wakeboards.
Just about every imaginable water sport is offered,
from tubing to scuba diving.
Big Catch!
Captain Whitney Reiter and Conner Dowd show
off a 40lb dolphin they caught near Highbourne
Cay in the Exumas.
43
CAPTAIN’S CORNER
“ It’s our
abilities on
the water
that set us
apart from
other yachts
out there”
—Captain Whitney Reiter
44
Versatility in crew members is a must, says
Reiter, “and the youth aboard Positive Carry is
what I love about it. Everyone’s young—from
the owner at 35, his wife at 32, and me, now 31.
If you’re not young, you have to act that way to
fit in.”
The captain says that many of the crew he
has hired did not have a lot of experience. He
prefers youth over experience because it leads
to a “can-do” attitude. He says he learns a lot
from them, too, and “that there is not one crew
member whom he doesn’t consider to be a
friend. Friendliness and youth, he says, result
in the informality onboard the yacht—and
reflect his conviction to make every guest feel
at home.
Laid-back Attitude
While Positive Carry boasts a luxurious Dee
Robinson-designed interior, complete with rich
Makore African cherry, silk upholstery, marble
baths, and state-of -the-art entertainment systems, both the vessel and its crew exude a casual air. Since the owner has three small children,
the crew are extremely child-friendly. The main
saloon even has a baby gate to keep children
and their toys safe in this most distinctive play
area. “It throws formal out the window,” says
Reiter, “and sets a fun tone for mixing with the
guests.”
And fun is what this crew’s all about, says
the Captain. If you’re looking for a nice, relaxing, low-key charter, you can hang out in the
Jacuzzi or linger at the dining table for 10 on
the main aft deck—complete with a unique
air-conditioning system to cool you off when
the breezes wane. The crew is always happy to
oblige and honor your smallest request.
But it’s guests with an active lifestyle who
will benefit the most from a week onboard, says
Reiter. “We love showing people a great time,”
he says, and we take pride in making everyone
feel at home. It’s the crew aboard Positive Carry
that makes the trip so special—and our abilities
on the water that set us apart from other yachts
out there. Fishing and spearfishing are sports
we excel at, not just dabble in. We have over
20 fishing rods, 6 spearguns, and 10 Hawaiian
slings—we do not come back empty-handed.”
he promises.
A New Responsibility
In 2003, Reiter added the title of Director of
Marine Operations to that of free diver, spearfisherman, golfer, tennis player, and Captain.
For in that year, his boss purchased nine additional boats—one more for himself and eight
as Christmas presents for relatives and friends.
In 2005, his boss went on a buying spree again,
and bought eight Boston Whalers as presents.
He knew his young captain would be up to the
challenge of managing all of them. YVC
About the Writer
[email protected]
Information
Positive Carry accommodates 10 guests in
five cabins. Charters are available in Florida
and the Bahamas at the rate of $130,000
per week, plus expenses. Contact:
The Sacks Group Yachting Professionals,
(954) 764-8219; www.sacksyachts.com
Rent A Greek
Cruising Palace
And sail
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islands
FOUNDED IN 1969
THEN YOU CAN SELECT YOUR OWN
ENVIRONMENT, YOUR OWN SCENERY, YOUR OWN ISLAND!
Charter a motor yacht, motor sailer or sailing yacht
(for 6 to 84 guests, from 60’ to 325’ and $1000 to $65,000 per day for entire yacht with its full
crew) from VALEF YACHTS, agents for the largest fleet of crewed yachts for charter in Greece.
IT COSTS NO MORE THAN BEING ON A CRUISE SHIP
But
• You can plan your own itinerary with your own captain
• Your food with your own chef
• Your drinks with your own steward, or leave it up to
them to…pamper you.
VALEF YACHTS LTD.
International Headquarters: 7254 Fir Rd., P.O.B. 385, Ambler, PA 19002 U.S.A.
Tel: (215) 641-1621 • (800) 223-3845 • Fax: (215) 641-1746
E-mail: [email protected] • Website: VALEFYACHTS.com
RESORTS
Mohonk Mountain House
Out-of-the-way
Mohonk is many things at once; an historic castle perched on the summit of a glorious
Yankee
stately libraries. But it’s also a retreat where silence gently shakes the horns, crowds and
splendor
WRITTEN BY JOSH MAX
mountain, with luxurious, TV-less rooms, tall ceilings, acres of wood, and lounges with
work concerns out of your ears. Your days are packed full of activities if that’s your preference; skating, cross-country skiing and snowshoeing are all on the complimentary docket
for winter; for spring, boating on the crystal-clear lake, hiking along miles-long trails, tennis
and other recreation is available free with your room price. Or you can do nothing at all.
Lots of Room at the Inn
T
he 261-room house itself is an architectural
wonder; a turreted seven-story building
stretching nearly 1/8 of a mile, it’s surrounded by more than 28,000 acres of state park land and
private preserves. The spacious rooms and halls
are hallowed and cavernous, yet Mohonk exudes
warmth. It really feels like someone’s house, albeit
someone whose last name is Gates. The price also
includes three fine meals a day.
Meals Fit for Royalty
Speaking of meals, please plan on exercising
the restraint of a monk unless you plan to leave
a few pounds larger than when you arrived. The
meals are American, meaning wholesome foods
prepared with seasonal, local ingredients, and
the spectacular natural setting is the final touch.
There are equally delicious “Sound Choice” items,
46
appealing to the tastes of health-conscious guests,
as well as vegetarian options, and Kosher meals
are also offered upon request. Dine in the spectacular Main Dining Room, the intimate East and
West Dining Rooms, or in the comfort of your
own room. Come dressed: during dinner, jackets
are required for gentlemen age twelve and over,
and for ladies, dresses, skirts or evening slacks.
Also, Mohonk’s award-winning wine list (Wine
Spectator, 2004) offers a wide range of selections
to accompany your repast. The West Lounge is
open from 5-11 p.m. daily, serving cocktails and
light fare.
Tea, Sweets, Activity
For the overstimulated, easily bored 21stcentury sort, there are a wealth of year-round
themed programs available, from Ballroom or
Swing Dancing, a Taste of Italy, Holistic living
as well as the Art of Chocolate, Just for Couples,
Jazz on the Mountain or a Scottish Weekend,
among others, many where children are invited
to stay free. And speaking of the kids, there’s lots
to keep them occupied, too, from storytelling to
magic to mime while you and yours explore the
grounds or simply unwind. Take afternoon tea
and cookies, also included in the room price, as
is nightly entertainment like movies, music or
dancing. You can get a more reasonable rate, as
well as little less maddening crowd, by staying
from Sunday into Monday as we did, and prices
also drop during the week if you feel like playing
hooky from your life.
Relaxing Body, Mind,
Spirit at the Spa
The Old-World charm of Mohonk has been
given a modern-day spin at the recently opened
Spa. There, you can find your own perfect balance of activity, rest, and play. They offer up
yoga, Pilates, Qigong, aerobics and water classes,
as well as a full menu of services and signature
treatments. While in the Spa you can relax in
the solarium or near the stone fireplace, take
a dip in the indoor heated swimming pool, or
if you’re visiting in the warmer months, in the
outdoor heated mineral pool. The Spa also houses a state-of-the-art Fitness Center, steam and
sauna rooms, The Elixir Bar, and offers a variety
of teas, sports drinks and snacks. Complete the
untangling of physical, mental and spiritual knots
with an Energy Balancing Massage, Stress-Buster
Back Therapy, Cedars Exfoliating Body Glow or an
Herbal Rejuvenation Ritual before your return to
the real world.
The Gift Shop:
Something for Everyone
The Mohonk Gift Shop on the ground floor
is over 100 years old and combines turn-of-thecentury charm with modern-day flair. Visit the
Victorian-style Soda Fountain and enjoy an oldfashioned egg cream. Opposite the Soda Fountain
is a gourmet food section feauturing treats such
as homemade local chocolates, fine aged Antico
Mercante balsamic vinegars and infused oils.
Once sustained, wander the rest of the store,
which offers a distinctive selection of keepsake
treasures for you or your family, friends, and coworkers.
Thumb through books from regional and international best-selling authors, pick up comfy logo
sweatshirts for taking it easy as well as fine linens
by Margaret O’Leary. Choose a soothing Baudelaire
soap from bath/spa section or a Luminary luxury
boxed candle from the candle boutique.
cably, their focus is grounded in mid-19th century
picturesque influence.
The original design has been maintained
through the years as the gardens have matured
and evolved. Guests can enjoy large masses of
flowering annuals, perennials, and tropical plants,
set against magnificent vistas and views. Walk
through The Mohonk Greenhouse and inhale
the bouquet of orchids, begonias, and fuchsias.
You’ll also find splendid gardens throughout the
grounds, including ornamental grasses, herb collections, peonies, rock gardens, container gardens, and a butterfly garden.
A scenic, easy trip by car, train or bus from most
any location in the Northeast, Mohonk Mountain
House is located in the heart of the Hudson
Valley’s Catskill region. Amtrak trains arrive and
depart from Poughkeepsie, and Adirondack
Trailways provides bus services to New Paltz. If air
travel is your method of transportation, Stewart
International Airport in Newburgh is 25 miles
from the Mountain House, Albany Airport 70
miles out, and the New York City area airports
are less than 100 miles away. Mohonk will even
provide transfer service from area airports, bus or
train stations, prices available upon request. YVC
The Fine Art of Observing Nature
The beauty of Mohonk’s grounds can’t be overstated, and a visit must include a stroll through
the gardens, a cornerstone of Mohonk since the
land was purchased in 1869. Landscaped impec-
About the Writer
Josh Max is a Manhattan based freelance writer and
musician. www.TheMaxes.com
[email protected]
The Gardens
A cornerstone of Mohonk since the land was purchased in 1869
Information
Mohonk Mountain House, Lake Mohonk,
New Paltz, NY www.mohonk.com
reservations: 800-772-6646
47
YACHTING TRENDS
A different way
to buy a yacht
Fractional Ownership
Sharing a yacht is an appealing investment
for businessmen and experienced yachters
alike.
WRITTEN BY JAMIE MATUSOW
Information
For more information on LL at Sea’s
fractional ownership programs,
contact: David Perrich at 727-656-9952
About the Writer
[email protected]
48
W
ith more and more emphasis on “living the good life,” innovative concepts
have emerged that allow those wanting to “have it all” to partake in a smorgasbord of
luxury lifestyle options. Based on the premise of
“why go it alone, when you can lower the cost of
ownership and give more people the option to take
part?” timeshare and fractional ownership plans
have multiplied rapidly. They now run the gamut
from luxury condos and upscale vacation homes,
to private jets, enviable cars, and even spectacular
jewelry and designer couture. Not only do these
shared arrangements enable owners to indulge in
a variety of business and vacation options, they
release them from the burdens of ownership and
provide opportunities for investment.
Yacht ownership is one of the latest entries in
the fractional ownership ring, and it has unique
advantages. Unlike owning a share of a beachfront community on Cape Cod or a mountaintop
ski house in Aspen, in which there are a limited
number of preferred weeks, the mobility of a yacht
allows all shareholders to enjoy optimal weeks
aboard. From Maine and Martha’s Vineyard in the
summer, to the Bahamas and the Caribbean in the
winter, owners never have to settle for an off-season week. They can usually choose a few weeks a
year, in three different locations.
Dave Perrich, VP of sales and marketing, for
Luxury Lifestyles at Sea (LL at Sea), says the
yachts his company offers cover the cruising area
from the Chesapeake Bay in Maryland to the
Caribbean. This year, he says, he’s had increased
interest in the Montauk, NY, area, particularly
from celebrities, and will most likely expand the
yachts’ cruising area a little farther north this summer to accommodate that market as well.
Since starting the company just two years ago,
Perrich says he has found that fractional ownership appeals to a wide range of interested parties.
Sharing the property is not usually about the issue
of money with his clients—it’s more a matter of
time. He says that LL at Sea has received strong
interest even from groups they hadn’t counted on.
“We found that many serious inquiries came from
experienced yachtsmen,” he says. “Many have owned
their own yachts for years; now, with getting older,
they’re looking for a way to continue to enjoy all of the
pleasures with less responsibility.” Others are interested in “trading up,” but don’t want to deal with the
maintenance, upkeep and security that commitment
would incur. “For them,” he says, “Owning a yacht for
three weeks a year is the ideal solution.”
Perrich says, that on average, the typical yacht
owner spends just three weeks a year on his boat
anyway—but pays for it 365 days a year. And maintenance costs, he says, run 10-15% of the yacht’s
cost. With fractional ownership, Perrich emphasizes, participants get the benefits of outright ownership, but at only 1/12 of the cost. And what’s more,
they can write it off as personal property. Although
the yacht is owned by a corporation, each individual can take his share as a personal deduction.
LL at Sea has filed for fractionalization in
Florida, and has set up several fractional-ownership programs. They specialize in brand-new
boats, 80 feet and up, ranging from Italian to U.S.
designs. All yachts are crewed by a highly skilled
team that includes a chef specifically trained for
creating culinary masterpieces at sea. Twelve owners are each able to select 21 days per year from
three main cruising areas. The remaining weeks
are allocated for yacht transfer, maintenance, and
crew vacations. Each owner also pays an annual
maintenance fee to cover such things as scheduled
services, cleaning, and yacht transfer. Variable costs
per week include food, drink, dockage, and fuel.
He says that LL at Sea’s initial yacht offered for fractional ownership already has its 12 owners, and that
there’s currently strong interest in their 120ft offering.
By April, he says, the company predicts they’ll have
enough clientele to close three boats. In fact, he says
demand has been so high, that they are looking into
partnerships with European builders to bring their
fractional-ownership programs to the Mediterranean.
So whether you’re an experienced yachtsman looking for an alternative to full-time ownership; a businessman looking for an investment that fulfills work
and family entertainment requirements; or a frequent
charterer who may not yet be ready to make the leap to
full ownership, sharing your yacht with 11 other people
may be the way to go. YVC
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RESORTS
Nassau: Something for Everyone
Atlantis
The main focus of yachtspeople is the 65-slip
Marina where yachts from all over the world
can drop anchor.
A long-time favorite destination
for the sun and beach-starved
weary traveler
The place is being developed faster than you can say “conch fritter”, though, and the
assortment of inns, resorts, hotels and other places to hang hat and anchor can be a challenge to negotiate. Here we profile four hotels of disparate flavors, each catering to a particular type of traveler.
Atlantis: The Place to Drop Anchor
A
WRITTEN BY JOSH MAX
50
tlantis is ideal for vacationers whose tastes
run to the colossal, the bustling, the allinclusive, those with impatient children,
or all of the above. It’s a city unto itself, a Times
Square in the middle of sunny paradise, and it’s
growing, too; construction was going on during
our trip for a new wing of suites which will probably need their own zip code.
We’d need a dictionary-sized tome to touch
on every last amenity it offers, but suffice it to
say the Atlantis has 2,300 guest accommodations in its Royal Towers, Coral Towers and Beach
Tower; over 35 restaurants, bars and lounges, a
10,000 square-foot Casino, the largest ballroom
in the Bahamas/Caribbean region, and a marina
capable of handling the largest of private luxury
vessels. Eleven million gallons of fresh and
salt water pools, waterfalls aplenty, a long, long
beach, exhibits of lagoons and underwater formations displaying over 200 species of marine
life and 50,000 live animals ranging from schools
of sharks to rainbows of tropical fish make the
Atlantis a fascinating, days-long source of wonder and amazement.
There’s more, much more, but the main focus of
yachtspeople ought to be the 63-slip marina; there,
yachts from all over the world can drop anchor,
have passports checked, disembark and join the
fun of Atlantis and the rest of the island for as long
as you wish with full support of the on-site office.
Visit Marina Village, a 65,000 square-foot marketplace with world-class shopping and fine dining
including the excellent Seafire with its first-class
wine selection and specialties like abaco grouper,
ahi tuna, steaks, poultry and other fine dishes.
Expect crowds no matter the time of year, and
keep eyes open while traveling from here to there
within the grounds, as the general population is
quite happy to bowl you over should you neglect
to get out of the way. Front-desk people are efficient as one can be when dealing with a massive,
wealthy horde of thousands seven days a week.
Also, service is on island time; accept it sooner
than later and you can better take advantage of
the various fun and non-stop entertainment.
Graycliff Hotel and Restaurant:
Peace, Quiet and 5-Diamond Dining
Sandals Royal Bahamian Spa Resort
and Off Shore Island
Graycliff is an utterly charming, twenty-room,
250-year-old inn carrying a Bahamian magic
all its own. Parked on a nondescript side street
across from the two cannons in the driveway of the
Governor’s mansion, Graycliff is as unassuming as
other resorts are ostentatious; when pulling up to
Graycliff’s steps, our taxi driver missed the entrance
on his first try because he didn’t know where it was
despite his eight years on the job. But walk up to
the homey front porch via the stately stone steps,
enter the lobby with its high ceilings and natural
wood beams hovering over you, go to your comfortable, extra large suite and have a chair on the
second-floor porch. Listen to the songs of the birds
and feel the wind rustling through the trees and
your pulse begins to relax. Stroll the grounds with
their dense trees and elegantly manicured fauna,
dip into one of three pools surrounded by acres of
foliage, write a postcard, flirt with your other half,
or do nothing at all. You’ll leave relaxed, refreshed,
fed and satisfied. A small gym, some of whose
equipment needed some maintenance, is available, as well as a variety of spa packages.
Graycliff gets high marks for the staff’s ability
to answer questions and hold a pleasant conversation rather than giving you the feeling there are
a dozen trains to catch in the next five minutes.
After a short while, you start knowing the names
of the taxi drivers on call in front of the lobby
at night, the concierge and various relaxed staff
about the place, and imagine it’s your house rather
than a vessel for so much travelin’ cattle.
When hunger strikes, the prefixe Humidor
Churrascaria is one of two restaurants owned by
Graycliff you should visit both to dine in and to
sample its world-class cigars, rolled and sold right
there in front of you. The star of the hotel, however,
is the Graycliff restaurant in the dining room just off
the hotel lobby. Enjoy the white glove service and
relish a warm salad with shrimp and smoked duck
breast, grapefruit and garlic vinaigrette appetizer, a
boneless full breast of free range chicken stuffed with
Italian Parma prosciutto, spinach and aged parmesan
or an oven slow-roasted crisp Long Island duckling
in Bahamian naval orange sauce escoffer. Exquisite
caviar for the most discerning connoisseur is available, as are some of the world’s most exclusive wines.
And speaking of wines, a word must be said
about Graycliff’s cellars. With over 275,000 bottles,
some of which date back to the 1700s, it is an
exquisitely exclusive collection, and if you can’t
find a bottle to suit your taste, your only solution
would be to obtain a bunch of grapes on your own
and have at it. A wine cellar tour is a must, and
can be arranged through guest services.
Once you’re suitably fed, enjoy one of the
aforementioned aromatic and homemade cigars.
A steward will offer you a choice of fat or thin, long
or short, mild or industrial strength.
The hotel is in need of a paint job and some
minor fixits, but for us, this added to the charm.
The finest in service, and a couples’ paradise.
It usually takes a couple of days to unwind from
your crazy home life even in the plushest of vacation locales, but being picked up in a Rolls-Royce
and having your own personal butler during your
stay as we did is a great way to start off. Sandals
strives and mostly succeeds in providing the ultimate in pampering, the finest in dining and the
most romantic settings in Nassau, almost daring
you not to fall in love with whoever you bring
with you. And make sure you do bring someone
– Sandals is a couples-only resort, no kids allowed.
Prices are all-inclusive – no tipping permitted, so
leave your wallet in your room safe; you won’t
need it the whole time you visit.
There are 403 rooms in 13 varying categories of
swank, seven bars, two beautiful large pools in the
main area (with swim-up bars) and nine gourmet
specialty restaurants featuring an array of cuisine
from Bahamian to French to Italian to Japanese and
more. Our 1-bedroom suite was the most satisfying
out of all our Bahamian lodgings with its 4-poster
bed, a patio, spacious rooms and Jacuzzi. Two
shops, Little Tings and Royal Tings, offer clothes,
beach towels, cold drinks, souvenirs and more.
Sandals makes it incredibly easy to turn your
life into a days-and-nights long saga of simple
choices; when to go to the beach, when and what
to eat and drink, and when to make romance. After
discovering a trail of rose petals interspersed with
lit votive candles leading to your bed and the clock
radio tuned to Lite-FM at night, or partaking in the
couples’ massage Sandals’ world-class spa offers,
or imbibing a bit of the fine champagne and liquor
available at every turn, you surrender, and you’re
in the mood for love most of the time you’re there.
Sandals is a sure-cure for the relationship blues.
And, regarding relationships, consider tying the
knot here as well; the resort averages 8 weddings
a day – and your honeymoon can take place on
premises.
When you’re not busy making goo-goo eyes at
your beloved, feast your ears or express your vocal
talents at the piano bar from 9 PM to 12. At 10 PM
at the Royal Theatre, an assortment of live bands
and entertainers is offered including comedians,
local musicians, and magicians. During daylight
hours, a variety of land and water sports is available
for enthusiasts, as well as an up-to-date fitness center complete with free weights, treadmills, stationary bicycles and more equipment, a far cry from
the broken-down afterthought some resort fitness
centers are fond of presenting to vacationers.
A trip to Sandals Cay, a pristine nearby offshore island, is a must. Ferries run every hour on
the hour, and the island’s fresh water pool, Jacuzzi,
swim-up pool bar and Café Goombay will further
untie the knots.
Sandals’ prices also include round-trip airport transfers, an orientation twice daily, and
Ambassadors for non-English speaking guests.
Homemade Cigars
A steward will offer you a choice of fat or
thin, long or short, mild or industrial strength.
Graycliff
Graycliff is as unassuming as other resorts
are ostentatious
51
RESORTS
Sandals
Strives and mostly succeeds in providing the ultimate in pampering,
the finest in dining and the most romantic settings in Nassau.
“ it is one of the
most romantic
settings in
Nassau, almost
daring you not
to fall in love
with whoever
you bring with
you”
52
Radisson; One of the Better
Chain Resorts
One doesn’t normally exclaim “Radisson!”
when quizzed about luxury hotels. That said, the
Bahamas can get awfully crowded at peak season,
and there inevitably comes a time when room
at the 5-star inn is scarce and one needs a better-than-decent place to hang hat and suitcase.
Consider the Radisson, one of the better chain
hotels on the island.
Something’s always happening in the gargantuan lobby, including coffee first thing in the morning, tours and excursions hawked by smiling young
island women parked behind desks loaded with
pamphlets and brochures, a bar where you can
get your daiquiri and head off down to the beach,
and helpful front desk staff. One of this hotel’s
most pleasing characteristics is its lack of mob;
even when it’s busy, a beach chair (or two) is always
available, ditto the pool, so it’s possible to have a
dip first thing in the morning without discovering a
horde of shoes, books and other bric-a-brac holding a place on every last chaise lounge.
The kids will love it, too; the Radisson’s “Camp
Junkanoo” is designed for tykes. Campers enjoy a
mix of daily themed and supervised activity programs. It’s a great way for kids to make new pals
from all over the globe – while parents get a chance
to enjoy all that the resort has to offer. From arts
and crafts or nature walks, straw market field trips,
to pool play, karaoke, dance lessons, treasure hunts,
trivia games, beach olympics plus much more,
Camp Junkanoo lets children enjoy all while being
closely monitored in a safe, secure setting.
The price of your stay is all-inclusive, meaning
you can get a filling meal without hauling the wallet out for the fiftieth time that day, or signing a bill
that bites you when you check out. Lunch and dinner is better than breakfast; you’ll probably want
to grab a banana, orange, mini-box of cereal and
apple juice to go rather than delve into the eggs or
pancakes each morning. Rooms here are what they
are, and sometimes that’s all you need – a place to
sleep and shower rather than spend extensive time
in. Many rooms have lovely views, though, and it’s
nice to wake up, walk to the balcony and have a
peek at the waves while you remind yourself of your
friends back home who are sitting in traffic.
The surrounding areas of the Radisson feature
restaurants where the fare jumps quite a few
notches in quality. One must-visit is Indigo; we
liked it so much we ate there twice.
Try the sushi, the coconut curry conch chowder, the tuna cranberry cakes, Asian egg noodles
with spicy shrimp, and most everything else on the
menu. No need to write down the address for your
taxi driver, either; everyone knows where Indigo is.
The Radisson offers entertainment most
nights, a pleasure as long as one remembers
this is the Bahamas and not off-Broadway here;
after witnessing the evening floor show consisting
of male twins impersonating Bette Midler, Neil
Diamond, Barbra Streisand and others, you’ll have
something to include on your postcards home
alongside “Having a great time!” YVC
Jet Blue (www.JetBlue.com) flies directly to Nassau
out of JFK and other airports; their friendly and
helpful flight attendants and TVs on the back of
each seat make the trip a fun ride.
About the Writer
Josh Max is a Manhattan based freelance writer and
musician. www.TheMaxes.com
[email protected]
Information
www.Atlantis.com • www.GrayCliff.com
www.Sandals.com • www.radisson-cablebeach.com
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CRUISING CIGAR MAN
I’ve Got Mail!
For this issue I thought I’d dip in to my
mailbox and publish some questions I’ve
received in the past few months that may
also be concerns of yours. As I usually
say when I reply to a question, ‘I hope this
helps.’
Tubed Cigars In or Out?
I have several Romeo y Julieta and Partagas,
as well as maybe 25 or 30 different Fuente Fuente
OpusX cigars that are either in cedar-lined aluminum tubes or glass tubes. I took the Cubans
out of their tubes when I put them in my larger
humidor, but left the OpusX cigars in the glass
tubes with the end plug removed (it’s a smaller
count humidor that has ONLY OpusX cigars in
it). Is this a good way of storing or not? Thanks for
your advice, as I have heard both sides of the argument.
— Rick
I get this question often, and yes, it is a good way to
store them. I’m a traditionalist, in that I remove the
cello wrappers from the cigars in my humidor – well,
most of them. For the pricey stuff, like Fuente Fuente
OpusX, Davidoff, Padron Anniversary 1964, and other
luxury class cigars, I feel it’s better to leave them in the
cellos. If they’re tubos, I recommend removing the cap
so some additional air-flow gets in. Even though both
glass and metal tubos will maintain proper humidity
for months, you get the peace of mind of knowing
that the cigars are getting air flow. Keeping your finest
cigars in their cellophane wrappers and tubes is also
the best way to protect the outer wrapper leaf, particularly if your cigars get jostled when reaching for a
cigar at the bottom of your humidor.
Spaced-out Cigars
WRITTEN BY
GARY KORB
Assuming that the humidor is not filled to
capacity, is there an ideal scheme for storing the
cigars - or, for example, does it make any difference if they are stacked willy-nilly inside?
—Tom B.
Not at all. Just try to keep some space between
the cigars for air-flow, an important ingredient in
keeping your cigars fresh and supple. Don’t pack
them tightly into the humidor like they are in the
factory box. If there are some cigars you smoke more
often, keep them near the top. You also want to
rotate them every couple of months by moving the
ones on the bottom row up to the top row, etc. This
is due to the fact that the humidity and temperature will vary in different sections of the humidor.
Storing Factory-Packed Boxes,
and Long-term Aging
I have two questions: First, how do I keep
boxed cigars in my humidor, sealed or opened? I
have purchased a 550 ct. cabinet humidor that will
hold several boxes. Secondly, how do I tell what
cigars are good for long term aging (10+ years),
and which ones peak in only a few years?
54
— Don
To answer your first question, keep the factory
boxes sealed until you’re read to open them. Your
cabinet humidor is really a mini humidified warehouse. On the other hand, if you plan on picking
from different boxes as you smoke, as long as the
conditions are within 65% - 70% RH and about 70°
Fahrenheit, they can remain open, as they would be
in a cigar store display case.
Regarding how to tell which cigars are better for long
term storage, when it comes to premium long-filler
cigars, there’s no way to tell. So look at it this way: The
better cigars, especially if they’re valuable or rare, you
may want to keep longer for those “special occasions.”
But my philosophy is to “smoke ‘em now.” When a
cigar is shipped from the factory it’s ready to smoke,
although some additional months of home aging
does help settle them. So, enjoy them as soon as you
can. Ten years sounds like an awfully long time to
wait to have a good cigar, especially a GREAT one.
What’s Better, Wood or Plastic?
My friends frown at my use of large Tupperwaretype containers in which I store my extensive stash
of cigars. This system allows me to dedicate one container to one type of cigar so they do not marry, and
has the added advantage of containing outbreaks of
mold, beetles, and other undesirable problems. I use
a gel humidifier and a digital hygrometer, plus a small
strip of Spanish cedar between the layers of cigars to
allow air and humidity to circulate, and I leave the
cellophane wrappers on. I eventually want to build
a humidor with individual cedar lined boxes that will
allow the cigars inside to be physically separated on
pullout cedar pallets, each with its own gel humidifier & hygrometer. Are there any problems with this
arrangement or are my friends just cigar snobs?
— Sonny C.
The answer is, they’re snobs. I get dozens of emails
from cigar smokers who have the same setup as
you, and their cigars are fine. I prefer to store my
cigars using the more “traditional” wooden humidor, but as they say, “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.”
However, the “traditionalist” in me suggests that
you invest in at least one good-quality humidor for
your primos. Other than that, it looks like you’ve got
the situation well in-hand (pun-intended).
About the Writer
Gary Korb is the resident cigar guru at Famous Smoke Shop
(www.FamousSmoke.com) in Easton, PA. He has been
enjoying the wonderful world of cigars for over 25 years.
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RESORTS
Next
Generation Villas
Imagine if you could take your family or a big group of friends to a private vacation villa in,
say, Marbella, Miami or St. Tropez. The villa is perfectly located for privacy but still central
to the beach, buzzed about new restaurants and any sights you might want to meander
through on a lazy afternoon. It is outfitted with a pool, billiard room, home theater, chef’s
kitchen, fitness center and amenities like WiFi, Godiva chocolates for munching, a full
library of DVDs and the plushest robes you’ll find outside a Four Seasons. And, most impossibly, there is a staff of concierges, housekeepers, cooks and other good time facilitators on
standby, ready to address your whims on a moments’ notice.
T
WRITTEN BY AGHA KHAN
56
hink it’s too good to be true? Think again.
Villazzo is here. Offering private villa rentals in magnificent homes in the world’s
dreamiest destinations, Villazzo’s edge is the combination of properties and amenities it offers.
Unique in the field, Villazzo provides guests with
the best of five-star hotel amenities in the luxurious private villas in its portfolio.
Surprisingly, the Villazzo idea did not come
from a hotelier. Instead, it came from an entrepreneur who was, himself looking for a high-end
vacation rental. What Christian Jagodzinski found
were plenty of beautiful properties, but none
of them with amenities he was used to, having
stayed in numerous five-star hotels. To begin with,
there was no airport transfer to the property. The
villas were not equipped with an internet connection nor in some cases even a phone. Laundry and
Taking hospitality
to the next level
maid services were not part of the package, either.
And so, like a true entrepreneur, Jagodzinski recognized a hole in the market for private villas with
high-end hotel amenities – surely he couldn’t be
the only one in search of them?
In 2002, Jagodzinski founded Villazzo and
began selecting villas to manage “the Villazzo way.”
With properties in St. Tropez, Marbella, Aspen and
Miami (one of which is Jagodzinski’s own) and
more then 20 employees worldwide, Villazzo has
grown into a thriving boutique hospitality business. Careful not to grow the property portfolio
beyond the ability to provide truly personalized
service, Jagodzinski and his staff keep their eye
on the quality of each guest’s experience. The staff
office is never more than 30 minutes from each of
the properties – this way, staff can respond quickly
to guests’ more immediate needs.
How does it work? Prospective guests can
peruse www.villazzo.com or call one of their offices
directly to make a reservation for a two night minimum. Then, guests are encouraged to submit any
requests they may have for their stay in advance.
As Villazzo’s Director of Villa Management, Ludovic
Roche, points out, “Almost anything is possible if
we have enough time to make the arrangements.”
And even on short notice Roche has provided the
nearly impossible to guests wanting, for example,
a new billiard table set up by the pool. More standard requests range from stocking the fridge with
a list of groceries to setting up dinner parties with
catering from noteworthy local restaurants. Once
on the property, the level of service supplied is
entirely up to the guests.
Inside Casa Contenta in Miami, one of Villazzo’s
signature properties, it is difficult to imagine
wanting any interference from the outside world.
On an acre of prime Palm Island real estate, the
20 million dollar villa is a Spanish-style mansion
enrobed in tropical foliage with interiors reflecting
a French sensibility. With over 11,000 square feet
of living space and grounds that feature a heated
pool with waterfall and grotto, two Jacuzzis, a wet
bar with barbecue and even a regulation-sized
sand volleyball court, there is plenty of privacy on
the property as well as from the outside world.
Days float by in the idyllic setting on the Gulf
of Mexico. Hours by the pool or in the rooftop
hot tub are the stuff of vacation fantasies. If you
must check in with the outside world, the business office is equipped with an internet-ready
PC, printer and fax machine. Settle in for a movie
night in the home theater and take your pick of
hundreds of DVDs in the villa library. Want to work
off last night’s dessert and cocktails? Head for the
fitness center where resistance training equipment, cardio and even a mirrored wall with ballet
bar offer the latest exercise options.
And, much like high-end hotels, the experience is enhanced by details, like the Mont Blanc
pen on the bedside table, fresh flowers delivered every morning, 300-thread count sheets, well
stocked wine cellar and humidor, Aveda products
in every bathroom, JURA espresso maker in the
kitchen and Godiva chocolates and fruits around
the house. Technologically, the house is tricked
out with all the latest – Ethernet cabling throughout the house, Dolby 5.1 home theater systems, a
vast musical selection available and customizable
in every room of the house. Villazzo is even in the
process of installing a biometric security system in
which guests can simply place their hands up to a
fingerprint reading sensor for entry to the property. The twice-daily housekeeping and turndown
service is discreetly handled – the effect is felt, but
their presence is virtually undetectable.
It’s tempting to stay indoors and enjoy all that
Casa Contenta has to offer, but Miami is a big city
with lots to see. Villazzo has a chauffered limousine
waiting to drive guests to South Beach hotspots or
for an afternoon of shopping on Ocean Drive.
Villazzo will also make seamless arrangements
for golf or tennis, spa treatments and helicopter
and yacht charters. Want to go out and leave the
little ones at home in trusted hands? Villazzo will
not only secure a choice restaurant table for your
party but send a nanny to the house to look after
the children.
The best part is that it’s entirely up to you
whether you want to enjoy Miami on the streets
of South Beach or delivered directly to you at the
villa. The staff regularly delivers dinners from local
favorites, Shoji Sushi, Smith & Wollensky and Joe’s
Stone Crab, but they can make arrangements with
virtually any restaurant in town.
With services such as these, it is no surprise
that celebrities are among Villazzo’s devotees.
Although Villazzo’s staff is tight-lipped about
their clientele, other sources informed me that
Derek Jeter and Jamie Foxx had recently enjoyed
Villazzo’s services in Miami.
Connoisseurs who find in Villazzo everything
Jagodzinski found lacking in other villa rental services will be heartened to know that “the Villazzo
standard” found at Casa Contenta is also the norm
at the other Miami villas, evocatively named Villa
Gabrielle and Villa Capponi. In an elite Coral
Gables neighborhood, Villa Gabrielle is comfortably laid out for large or more intimate parties.
Each room is a refreshing burst of color, giving
the property a playful touch. The massive outdoor
grilling area invites poolside barbecues, which can
either be arranged for guests or left to their own
culinary skills. Villa Capponi, on the other hand, is
a bit more extravagant in its invitations. Owned by
a nightlife impresario, the property is the perfect
celebratory destination located in close proximity
to the pulsing center of South Beach.
The coastal city of Marbella, long a treasured
vacation destination of Spaniards and citizens
of the world, houses three Villazzo properties:
Villa El Cid, Villa Flamingo and Villa Enola. Each
offers a convenient, yet unique location in the
hilly Marbella area. Golf lovers gravitate to Villa El
Cid for its proximity to the Flamingos Golf Course
while Villa Flamingo and Villa Enola both enjoy
breathtaking views of the Mediterranean and the
North African coastline.
The Villazzo properties in St. Tropez live up to
the city’s glamorous reputation. Villa Belle Vue and
Villa Village are classic French Riviera luxury homes,
and are worth 7 million euros and 15 million euros,
respectively. They are joined by Apartment du Port,
Villazzo’s only apartment property. But do not be
dissuaded – its 1,600 square feet are beautifully laid
out into a charming three bedroom home fronted
by the port of St. Tropez.
Each of the well-chosen properties reflects
Villazzo’s signature aesthetic: elegant luxury living
with an emphasis on comfort. But, unlike many
chain hotels, the unique features of each property
are not crushed under uniformity. Instead, the
service is consistent but not generic. Villazzo staff
are trained at the highest level of the hospitality
industry. Unlike either posh hotels or new “destination clubs,” Villazzo follows a strict philosophy
that the client should pay for only those products
or services they actually use. There is no membership fee or annual fee, simply the rental fee for the
property. And, likewise, if a guest has no interest in
a full-time butler, in-house massage treatments,
or an exotic car rental, he will not be charged for
extra services. But, decadent services like these are
awfully difficult to resist, aren’t they? YVC
Villazzo
Combines five-star hotel amenities with sumptuous
vacation villas around the world.
“Each of the
well-chosen
properties
reflects Villazzo’s
signature
aesthetic:
elegant luxury
living with an
emphasis on
comfort”
About the Writer
Agha Khan lives in Manhattan and writes for luxury
lifestyle publications.
[email protected]
57
THE PACIFIC
Island Fever
Catch the Aloha spirit by
island hopping in Hawaii
While many a honeymooning couple has enjoyed a sunset luau at a Maui resort and families have been vacationing on Honolulu’s famed Waikiki beach for decades, surprisingly
few travelers know Hawaii off the beaten path. What better way to explore the nooks and
crannies of the more popular islands and get to know Hawaii’s less touristy islands than by
planning an island-hopping vacation? Whether you want to captain your own yacht or hire
a helicopter, Hawaii’s islands were made for exploring. In fact, given the rugged coastal
landscape of some islands, there is no other way to see all of Hawaii’s natural beauty. So,
pack your bags and follow our ten-day itinerary on three of Hawaii’s most majestic islands
designed to give you maximum Aloha spirit.
58
Day One: Oahu
The island of Oahu is an ideal starting point
and transition from the mainland to Hawaiian life.
The city of Honolulu, the island and state’s primary
hub, is a cosmopolitan city filled with commercial
development, hotels, restaurants, shops, spas and
nightlife. Oh, and did we mention, the beach? The
white sands of Waikiki extend across a stretch of
the city, drawing in picnicking local families and
guests of upscale resorts alike. Every urban amenity is available, yet Honolulu’s visual landscape
of ocean, mountains and tropical foliage remind
visitors that they’re not on the mainland anymore.
It is Hawaii’s third largest island with much to see
and do.
Popular hotels among luxury travelers include
the Kahala (formerly the Kahala Mandarin
Oriental), whose recent $20 million refurbishment
provides updated décor and poolside cabanas
outfitted with high tech amenities such as iPod
Nanos, flat screen televisions and wireless internet access. Another favorite is the W Honolulu
Diamond Head Hotel, which is also completing an interior overhaul in April. Though the trendy W
style will remain, the look in each room will be updated and W’s popular signature bed will be added
to each room. Beachside Hyatt Regency Hotel and Spa, Halekulani Hotel, Castle Waikiki Shore, and
ResortQuest Waikiki Beach Tower attract discerning visitors.
While on Oahu, don’t miss the landscape and sights beyond Honolulu – Waikiki, though beautiful, is
only one of many beaches on Oahu. Take in the secluded beaches of Southeast Oahu and try to guess
which one served as the backdrop to that infamous scene in “From Here to Eternity”. Take the yacht
along the popular surf spots of the North Shore to Kaena Point where Hawaiian tradition holds that
souls meet eternity.
Day Four: Kauai
Now that you’ve acclimated to the time difference, the warm, slightly humid climate, and the
friendly atmosphere, it’s time to move on to pure Hawaiian spirit in Kauai. Laid-back and less developed yet with every amenity needed for living well, Kauai represents the essence of Hawaiian life.
Legislation mandates that no structure is built on Kauai that is taller than a coconut tree,
so don’t expect to find high-rise resorts or a skyscraper-filled skyline. The island
is, however, filled with rainforest hiking trails, dramatic mountain views and
foliage like you’ve never seen before – after all, it is called The Garden Isle.
Kauai is small enough to drive most of the way around within a
day – roads stop at the Napali coast on the North Shore, and
the only way to traverse the mountains is by helicopter,
boat, or, for the very adventurous, a rigorous hike
across steep mountains. The reward? Secluded
beaches and photo opportunities your friends
back home will not believe. The southern tip of
the island at Poipu Beach is less dramatic but
has more reliably dry weather, and with the gorgeous Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort and Spa and fine
dining such as Roy’s, it is a popular area to stay.
On the Eastern coastline between the two ends
of the island are the more populated towns of
Kapaa and Lihue. Kapaa has a youthful feeling, its
downtown littered with surfer cafes, burger joints
and health food shops.
The most magnetic draw of the island is ultimately the North Shore with its emerald mountains and hidden beaches. Starting with the luxurious Princeville Resort in the developed area of
Princeville and further, the landscape is magical.
Honolulu & Waikiki
The white sands of Waikiki extend across a
stretch of the city, drawing in picnicking local
families and guests of upscale resorts alike.
Oahu InsideTips
• If you happen to be an active or
retired military or civilian Department
of Defense employee, you’re in luck.
The beautiful Hale Koa Hotel right on
Waikiki Beach and adjacent to Fort
DeRussy is reserved just for you – and,
at less than half what neighboring
luxury hotels cost.
• Looking for the ultimate in romance?
Then book the Vera Wang Suite at the
Halekulani – if you can. Booked up
frequently for honeymoons and anniversaries, the 2,100 square foot suite
with 600 foot lanai designed by the
celebrated wedding dress designer, is
arguably the most beautiful hotel suite
in all of Hawaii.
• Want to experience old Hawaiian glamour? Then the Royal Hawaiian, a pink
structure built in 1927 as a SpanishMoorish homage to Rudolph Valentino
on an elite stretch of Waikiki, is for you.
The grande dame of Honolulu hotels,
its architecture and décor will take
you back to a bygone age of Queen
Kaahumanu who used to summer on
the very same stretch of beach.
59
CATAGORY HEAD
Lava Rocks
Crashing Surf on Black Sand Beach on the
Big Island of Hawaii.
Kauai InsideTips
• Many well-heeled visitors opt to rent private homes rather than stay at one of the
hotels or resorts. Kauai Chill maintains
three homes in Hanalei – one oceanfront
and two with mountain views, all of
which can include maid, catering and
massage services. (www.kauaichill.com)
Secret Beach Hideaway is another slice
of heaven on the North Shore offering private cottages on acres of land on one of
the area’s most beautiful beaches. (www.
secretbeachkauai.com)
• Want to be in trusted hands? Have Pure
Kauai organize your accommodations
and time in Kauai through their special spa and adventure getaways. Pure
Kauai will arrange exceptional North
Shore accommodations in private condos or architecturally masterful estates.
Then the capable staff will tone you
with hiking, snorkeling, horseback riding, kayaking, personal training, and
yoga and pamper you with massages,
facials and healthy meals. It is a fullservice experience with no expense
spared. (www.purekauai.com)
Hawaii InsideTips
• Although the Hapuna Beach Prince and
Mauna Kea Beach are sister hotels,
rates at the Hapuna are invariably less
expensive with no less service or desirable location.
For guests of the Princeville Resort, a beach and world-class golf course are available. Further
north, several restaurants draw foodies, such as Bali Hai at the Hanalei Bay Resort and Hanalei
Dolphin.
While on Kauai, don’t miss the opportunity to golf on some of the world’s most highly
ranked golf courses. Try the Princeville Resort’s Makai Course and Prince Course, 45 holes
designed by Robert Trent Jones, Jr. The Poipu Bay Golf Course is an absolute must for golfers.
The course, also designed by Robert Trent Jones, Jr., plays host to the PGA Grand Slam of Golf
every November. For a unique experience on a course woven into 750 acres of native ecosystem – including 40 acres of freshwater lagoons – the Kauai Lagoons Golf Club’s Kiele Course
is a Jack Nicklaus-designed masterpiece.
Day Seven: The Big Island of Hawaii
The island of Hawaii, known as The Big Island is a study in contradictions – black lava rock
from its five volcanoes and the white sand beaches all the islands are known for. The spectacular
landscape includes glittering waterfalls nestled in tropical jungles, the snowcapped mountain peak
of the world’s tallest sea mountain Mauna Kea, and the black lava rocks intermingled with sandy
beaches of white, golden and shades of green. Despite its size (it’s roughly the size of Connecticut),
it is the least populated of all the islands of the Hawaiian archipelago.
Although it boasts several luxury hotels and resorts, Hawaii is more inclined to inspire spiritual
awe and wonderment than the desire for pampering. It is also an adventurer’s dream – kayakers will
delight in its coastline’s caves and the beaches only accessible by boat. Hop off the boat and take in
the colorful, majestic life under the sea with scuba or snorkeling gear. On the island, hiking, biking and
horseback riding will take you far, far away from it all onto volcanoes and deep inside rainforests.
The Kohala Coast is graced with several beautiful places to stay. Visitors looking for luxurious
amenities will find them at the Four Seasons Resort Hualalai, Fairmont Orchid, Hawaii, Mauna Kea
Beach Hotel, Mauna Lani Resort and Hapuna Beach Prince Hotel.
While on The Big Island, don’t miss the chance to see eleven types of terrain in one helicopter
tour. Strap in and prepare yourself for jaw-dropping grandeur. Sunshine Helicopters offers four
types of tours on request. (www.sunshinehelicopters.com) Some would argue that you’ve never
seen a truly majestic sunset until you’ve seen one from the observatory at Mauna Kea, named the
white mountain for its snowcapped peak. The Hawaii Forest and Trail tour agency will take you
up to their collection of telescopes for a sunset view and dinner at a historic ranch nearby. (www.
hawaii-forest.com) YVC
About the Writer
Agha Khan lives in Manhattan and writes for luxury lifestyle publications.
[email protected]
60
“It’s yachting, not cruising”
“Certainly you did not invent yachting BUT you sure have perfected it!” Ann Weisbecker, Maryland, USA
“The dream you never want to wake up from.” David Simpson, UK
When you charter a SEADREAM mega-yacht you will provide an exclusive experience for your guests in an atmosphere of
luxury and casual perfection that is unmatched by any resort hotel or large cruise ship.
SEADREAM is perfect for couples on a romantic getaway, small groups, or as a charter for meetings, incentive rewards, executive retreats
or simply a celebration with family and friends. SEADREAM Charter Coordinators will work closely with you to ensure that your event
is customized to meet your every desire.
With only 55 ocean view staterooms and an award winning crew of 92, be prepared to be “Splendidly Spoiled”.
In 2004 and 2005 Berlitz rated SEADREAM YACHT CLUB “Utterly Exclusive” above luxury. SEADREAM made the Condé Nast Traveler’s
Gold List, scoring a perfect 100 for Service and higher than any other passenger vessel for Cuisine. Travel+Leisure 2004 World’s Best Awards
recognized SEADREAM I and II the highest of all vessels in Service, Cuisine and Value.
2003,‘04,’05
May – October: Visit the yachting ports of the Mediterranean, the enchanting Greek Islands, and the beautiful shorelines in the Adriatic and Black Sea.
November – April: It’s SEADREAM’S Caribbean with the intimate yachting harbors and secluded bays of The Grenadines, Windward
and Leeward Islands and the British Virgin Islands.
For our most current pricing and itineraries please contact your travel professional, yacht broker or SEADREAM YACHT CLUB
800-707-4911 305-631-6100 www.SeaDreamCharter.com 2601 South Bayshore Drive, Penthouse1B, Coconut Grove, Florida 33133
THE MEDITERRANEAN
Port Grimaud:
Luxury living
with a yacht in
your yard!
Home Sweet Port
Once upon a short time ago a French man
named François Spoerry had a unique and
watery vision for his yacht. His wish was
to create a beautiful home where he could
moor his boat in the backyard – the visionary Gallic was an avid sailor as well as
being a creative architect. And lucky for an
elite few, his wish came true.
WRITTEN AND PHOTGRAPHED
BY PAULA FARQUHARSON
62
T
he development he designed in the Gulf
of Saint-Tropez in the south of France has
attracted investors and yacht owners from
all over the world who appreciate his excellent
taste in real estate and the perfect location on
the Mediterranean Sea. An added attraction is
the mild micro-climate and sheltered harbour
that Port Grimaud enjoys, which is thanks to
protection from the Alps to the north. Just think
Venice but in the south of France! The exclusive
complex with its playful colours was designed to
resemble the romantic Italian city with the luxury
homes built on a number of islands connected by
Venetian-style bridges.
A Vision Realised
Built on the spot where the Greeks built
Athenopolis 2000 years ago, this luxurious living
location was a swampland when Spoerry purchased the land and started building the marina
village in 1966. However, he was inspired by the
prime location, heavenly mountain views and
accessibility to the Mediterranean Sea. The fact
that it was a swamp did not deter him. This idyllic location is heaven for yacht owners who, like
Spoerry, wish to own a property which allows
direct access by water and a safe and secure place
to moor your luxury craft. Each house has its own
private mooring pier. The picturesque canals that
interweave among the pretty pastel-coloured
houses with terracotta tiled rooftops allow you to
safely maneuver your yacht to home base. Port
Grimaud is an excellent marina as it is sheltered
and protected from the winds from the East and
the biting Mistral from the West.
The dream setting could not look more different today in comparison to its marshy origins a
mere 45 years ago. Port Grimaud is now a thriving and sought after port, attracting the rich,
famous and cream of the crop yacht owners. The
port promises to seduce you, but if considering
purchasing a property, you may have to wait to
enjoy her watery ways! According to the real estate
agents, there is a waiting list for homes to come on
the market.
Fancy Fishermen Homes
With only approximately 3,500 houses built
the elite vie for a slice of the prestigious port properties. Three types of houses were developed, maison de pêcheur (fisherman’s house), which consist of 85m2 of living space and three bedrooms;
bungalows (compact 60m2 with two bedrooms);
and maison large (large house), so called because
that’s what they are – over 100m2 with three or
four bedrooms. There are three sections in the
complex: section one is a pedestrian zone and the
other two sections are secured by gates - security
in the complex is high on the agenda of the management company so owners can relax knowing
their yacht and property are well protected.
Village Life
When the heat hits a high, this little port’s cafes
and terraces are a hive of summer fun. Before
stopping by the local outdoor market, drop into
the small church (a Catholic mass is followed
by a Protestant service on Sunday mornings).
Even those atheists among us will admire the
impressive interior with stained glass windows by
Vasarely. It is just one of the many culturally rich
visits you will make while at Port Grimaud. The
marketplace is where residents shop for locally
grown food and wine from nearby vineyards and
there is a scrumptious selection of restaurants to
suit all palates. One fabulous seafood restaurant,
a favourite of Andie McDowell when in town, is La
Table du Mareyeur, run by a Scottish man and his
Venetian-style footbridges
connect the Provencal style houses, painted in a myriad of colours from salmon pink to terracotta, framed
by traditional lavender and green shutters.
Port Grimaud Info
wife (10 & 11 place des Artisans) Tel:+33 (0)4 94 56
06 77. They will even deliver dinner to your yacht
if you don’t feel like stepping ashore.
If you do wander away from moor-home for
a night out on the town but don’t want to drink
and sail, rest assured a water-taxi will whisk you
home!
The property complex is a private copropriété, which means that the houses are
owned by individuals but the complex is run
and maintained by a management company.
The water area is approximately 27 ha., the
quays lined with gardens and fishermen
houses total 12 km in length, the minimum
water depth in the main channels is about
3.5 m and 2.15 m in the side channels. The
international airport of Nice is a mere 72 kms
away. Nearby villages worth a visit are the
famous Saint-Tropez (7kms), its lesser known
but some say more beautiful sister town of
Ramatuelle (10 kms), Ste Maxime (7kms)
and Gassin (9kms).
A Village with a View
Unlike its contemporary port the medieval village of Grimaud has its roots steeped in the GalloRoman period. Until the end of the 19th century
the Gulf of Saint-Tropez was called the Golfe de
Grimaud, such was the importance of the town for
its strategic vantage point. The ruins of the 17th century château dominate the hill above the port and
churches and chapels from the 11th, 15th and 18th
centuries trace the religious history of the village.
There is even a windmill (St Roch)! A stroll around
the old town pops up surprises at every turn: pretty
squares, tiny flowered facades and shaded little
lanes as well as the ancient burgesses houses with
cross-barred windows and domineering doorways.
No doubt you will stumble upon the locals playing a
traditional game of boules or pétanque. If you fancy
dabbling in antique hunting, try the market at Place
Neuve, held every second Sunday of the month
(March through October) or at Jas des Robert, every
Sunday morning. Or for some wine dégustation to
prepare the palate for a liquid lunch, visit the caves
of the cooperative of Grimaud winegrowers, located
between the medieval village and the port at 36
avenue des oliviers. There are many other domains
to choose from to find the perfect bouquet. June
16th this year marks the 40th anniversary of Port
Grimaud so make a date in your diary for a day and
night of musical fun.
Browsing the Region
The region around Grimaud is exquisite.
Within a stone’s throw (7km) is the famous SaintTropez, of Brigette Bardot fame. Its quaint fishing
village ambiance is still intact while super yachts
hover in the port unloading their rich and famous
passengers, who enjoy a stroll through the tiny art
gallery-lined streets. There is a multitude of leisure
activities in which to indulge. You can rent motor
boats, play tennis or golf at the Country Club de
Grimaud or the Beauvallon Club, go horse riding
or simply head to the hills for a gentle amble. YVC
About the Writer
Paula Farquharson is editor of The Riviera Times newspaper. Originally from Ireland, she worked in New York and
The Mediterranean Sea is unusual in that
the tide is very weak (less than a quarter of
a metre compared to tides in the north of
France of up to 15 metres) and there are no
waves as you find elsewhere in other waters.
The reason being, there is not the immense
space required to form them. Only when
the cold Mistral wind blows will small waves
appear. The surface water temperature varies with the amount of sunshine, from 16C
in winter to a very pleasant 22C in summer,
ideal for yachting vacations.
Contact point
Grimaud Tourist Office
1 Bld. des Aliziers - 83310 Grimaud. Tel: +33
(0)4 94 55 43 83 e-mail: bureau.du.tourisme.
[email protected]
is now based in Nice, France, where she learned to sail.
[email protected]
Harbour facts:
Port Grimaud I
Harbour Master’s Office: +33(0)4 94 56 29 88
Email : [email protected]
Mooring places : 1100
Public mooring places : 287
Maximum length : 55 m
Port Grimaud II
email: [email protected]
Mooring places : 751
Public mooring places : 66
Each house’s design is unique and has its own
private mooring spot
Marina
email: [email protected]
Mooring places: 500
Public mooring places: 60
63
Wild
YACHT PROFILE
Thyme
Bennetti Classic 120’
Just recently launched from the Benetti Shipyard in Viareggio, Wild Thyme is the first of
the Benetti Classic 120’ series to become available to the charter market. She is already
in popular demand with plans to cruise the West Mediterranean this summer. Leaving her
home port on the French Riviera she will cruise down to Naples, Capri and Sicily and back
again before heading to Dublin for The Ryder Cup in September - a debut season packed
with new adventures.
WileThyme Specifications
Accommodations: .........................10 Guests
3 Double Staterooms, 2 Twin Guest
Staterooms, En-suite Shower/WCs
12 Day Guests, 7 Crew with own facilities
Length: ..................................... 120ft / 36.6m
Beam: ............................................ 26ft / 7.9m
Builder: ................................................Benetti
Model: ............................. Benetti Classic 120
Year: ........................................................ 2006
Engines: .............................. 2 x 1,550 hp CAT
Cruising Speed: ............................... 15 knots
Max Speed: ...................................... 16 knots
Consumption: ....................................300 l/hr
Flag: ......................................................British
Leisure: ...............................Jet Tender, JetSki
(Licence required), Water Skis, Wakeboard,
2x Kayaks, Inflatable water-toys
Dive sets (Rendez-vous only), Snorkelling
64
W
ords such as understated elegance,
classy sophistication with a chic, contemporary edge easily bring to mind
the unique and beautifully tailored interiors you
will find as you board Wild Thyme. Cabinetry
in highly polished rich cherry-woods feature
throughout the yacht with the exception of The
Sky Lounge, which features warm honey oak fittings, all of which are complemented by a colour
palette of creams, bronzes and caramels and
sleek textured fabrics and trimmings. The overall
impression is one of a beautiful and tranquil
backdrop where guests can relax wherever their
cruising itinerary takes them.
Luxurious colours and fabrics have been chosen to create a universal and timeless appeal.
Colours have been deliberately and subtly linked
to open out the space and give a harmonious
and continuous flow as guests move through the
yacht. Furniture and lighting have also been carefully selected to complement the decor theme
using an abundance of antique brass and crystal
to give sparkle and light.
The main salon and formal dining areas are
dressed in delicately embroidered silks in soft coffees and creams, with stunningly beautiful tassel
trims and onyx marble flooring, bar-top and coffee tables. The Sky Lounge has a slightly less formal air to it with the oak contrasting with smartly
tailored soft furnishings in black and bronze, tying
in with the sophisticated black leather desk-top
and bar-front. For additional sparkle, black granite has been used in the bar-top and coffee table.
The Master Suite, on the main deck, is decorated with silks in ivory and gold and offers a stunning view from the panoramic bow window. The
VIP and Twin Guest Cabins below deck employ
rich fabrics with exquisitely designed soft furnishings and marble bathrooms. To top it all the interior colour scheme has been extended to all external deck areas with teak and rattan deck furniture
and matching lounger and scatter cushions.
In addition the yacht is fully equipped with the
latest state of the art entertainment extras and an
extensive list of water toys, as well as zero speed
stabilizers for maximum comfort at sea. YVC
Information courtesy of Blue Water Yachting
www.bluewateryachting.com
Information
Blue Water Yacht Charters,Inc.
EST. 1983
M/V NORSEMAN - 108ft 10/12 guest
starting at $45,000/week inclusive
We Charter the World...
From Palm Trees to Glaciers
www.bluewateryachtcharters.com
(800) 732 7245
BVIsailing.com
GALAPAGOSsailing.com
800-648-3393
65
AFRICA
Travel Diary:
Zanzibar Island
See why East Africa is widely
regarded as one of the most
beautiful places on earth
With an abundance of wildlife, coupled with rugged landscapes ranging from the sprawling Serengeti to lush rainforests and pristine beaches, the region is truly a destination for
the ultimate traveler. The sunsets seem richer, the water seems more blue, the smiles of
locals more sincere. Photographers often insist that taking pictures in Africa is the easi-
WRITTEN BY JAMES FOSTER
est assignment there is...since the pictures really take themselves. The descriptions and
stories told by others who had seen the continent’s raw beauty and witnessed its visual and
soulful magic firsthand, inspired me. So after graduating from college I volunteered and
served as a Communications Director at Daystar University in Kenya. It was a position that
was indeed challenging, but provided me with the tremendous opportunity of being able to
explore wondrous locales that had previously existed only in my imagination.
66
B
ecause of an academic strike
orchestrated by the students of
the university, faculty members
were given time off until the strike
was resolved. After speaking with
many of my African friends, it
was determined Zanzibar Island off the coast of
Tanzania was not to be missed before my time
expired as a volunteer. Together with another
friend, we devised a route and took the plunge.
Now, as the reader, you must understand several
things before I go any further. Getting to Zanzibar
Island from the US is a relatively easy process.
Book your tickets and accommodations through
a travel agent (I can’t stress that enough). You
would most likely fly from the U.S. to Amsterdam,
then to Dar es Salaam, Tanzania. While customs is
run inefficiently and can take some time, officials
typically don’t harass Americans. From Dar, Air
Tanzania flies six times weekly to the island and
ZanAir and Coastal Aviation have daily flights.
Once you arrive, a driver will pick you up and
bring you directly to your hotel. Simple. But,
since my friend and I weren’t being paid at the
time, our goal was to not only see as much of
Zanzibar Island and the greater Tanzanian region
as possible, but also to do so in the most cost-efficient manner - therefore, I would strongly advise
against taking the route we choose.
We hopped a bus from Nairobi, Kenya, to
Moshi, Tanzania, which took roughly thirteen
hours (including the border hassle and various
stops along the way). Occasionally we were able
to nod off, but mostly we just gazed out at the
scenery unfolding before us. Tall, dry grasses
leaned slightly in the African breeze, and acacia
trees speckled the landscape.
Moshi is a bustling mountain town that serves
as a general launching point for many trekkers
hoping to tackle Mount Kilimanjaro, Africa’s tallest
peak. After spending the night in a questionable
hotel and playing in a local rugby tournament
the following day, we hopped yet another bus for
Dar es Salaam; approximately eight hours later,
we had arrived in Tanzania’s port city. When we
exited the bus we were immediately set upon by
a group of aggressive “salesmen” – if you can call
them that. These men wait at bus terminals for
tourists to disembark, then bombard them with
offers for hotels, tours, car rentals, crafts – you
name it. In Africa, these “salesmen” can become
pretty aggressive, so it’s always wise to at least
look and act like you know what you’re doing.
Once you’ve adamantly established that you’re
not in the market for what they’re selling, they’ll
usually leave you alone and that will provide you
with enough time to create some space from the
commotion, gather your things, then determine
if in fact you are interested in what they’re selling
– and in our case, we were interested in getting to
Zanzibar.
We were ushered into a windowless storefront,
then promptly led behind a curtain into the “travel
agent’s” office, which was nothing more than a
card table and plastic chair. He offered us two
options: taking a ferry out to the island, or taking a plane, which took about a half-hour and
cost roughly $50 USD. Inexplicably, the ferry took
approximately five hours and cost about $35 USD
– needless to say, we chose to fly.
We had planned to spend the majority of our
time along the north end of the island where
there’s typically a younger crowd and more affordable accommodations, but we also wanted to
experience the historical and cultural epicenter of
the island as well – Stone Town. Zanzibar Island,
once under the rule of the Portuguese, Arabs, and
British, has evolved into something of a melting
pot, and Stone Town is its truest testament to the
cultural, architectural and religious inter-mixing.
Coral-lime houses and a virtual sea of white
walls drew us into a maze of cobbled back alleys
and side streets, all boasting their own bazaars.
The smell of exotic spices mixed with the aroma
of a shopkeeper’s strawberry-flavored tobacco
being slowly puffed from an ornate hookah tickled our nostrils. Intricately designed doors on
the homes welcomed visitors with greetings in
Arabic. We stopped and bought some bananas
and freshly cut mangoes from a street vendor who
offered a toothless smile and a genuine “Asante
sana” (‘thank you very much’ in KiSwahili).
Mopeds putted past us and bicycle bells jingled
as their riders casually made their way to the sea-
Stone Town
Motion photo of children on their way to school
in Stowntown alley ways on Zanzibar Island, off
the coast of Tanzania, Africa
Catch of the Day
Colourfully dressed Swahili woman walking on
Zanzibar beach after having shopped at fishing
boats returning from the deep sea
Fishermen (opposite)
Fishermen going out to sea at sunrise on
Zanzibar Island off the coast of
Tanzania, Africa
67
AFRICA
Tropical garden in Zanzibar Resort
Churches
Zanzibar was a central point of the slave trade
and at abolotion this church was built on the site
of where slaves were sold at market
“ Your entire
attitude and
frame of mind
can be
transformed
through the
simple pleasures of fresh
fish, ocean
air, and juicy
slices of
mango”
68
side promenade, Jamituri Gardens, to unload a
fresh catch from their banana-leafed baskets.
As we strolled along, stopping briefly at each
stand to look at the crafts and exchange pleasantries with the vendors, the ocean air filled
our lungs and intoxicated us with an remarkable feeling of island ease. The quick pace we
usually kept slowed to a lethargic saunter as
our feet became hopelessly heavy.
Deciding what to eat, or more appropriately, what not to eat, became our biggest challenge of the evening. Each candlelit kiosk we
passed looked and smelled more appetizing
than the previous one, and with the price of a
dish ranging anywhere from .25 to .50 cents,
we stuffed ourselves with octopus smoked in
banana leaves, sweetmeats, fishcakes, crab
meat wrapped in chapattis with a Peptang pepper sauce and the freshest fruit I’d ever tasted,
covered with a sugary-sweet milk cream.
As the sun began to set on Stone Town, tourists and locals alike congregated in seaside cantinas to sip Tusker beers and swill large glasses
of rum with sliced limes. The smells of cigar
smoke and citrus cocktails mixed with the soft
breezes floating through the open doors and
windows. Live bands playing coastal Swahili
music lightened the mood even further and
before we knew it, the day had passed into
night and any cares or concerns we had melted
with the setting sun.
We had previously booked a room in town
that would suffice for the two days we planned
to stay; the cost was reasonable (about $15
USD per night). It was centrally located, clean,
had running water, security and a decent bar
– good enough for us. Because of the island’s
tourist influx in the mid-to-late 1990s, several
legitimately luxurious tourist hotels have been
constructed, and both the Zanzibar Serena Inn
and the Dhow Palace Hotel are immaculate.
We woke in the morning to the Muslim call to
prayer, which by now we had become accustomed to while living in Africa, but for every
mosque’s call to prayer, bells would ring in
Stone Town’s many churches; it reminded us of
the very diverse island we were on.
We had decided to rent mopeds for the day
and cruise as much of the island as we could,
and since we only had 600 square miles to
cover, we figured it to be an attainable goal.
While the dirt roads were treacherously pockmarked with gaping holes left by heavy traffic
after steady rains, traversing our way through
the villages proved well worth the trouble. We
were greeted with laughter, friendly smiles and
playful children, all wanting to interact with
new visitors. We explored Zanzibar’s many
beaches and idled at Mangawapani for a swim
along the stunning west coast of the island.
The sun was shining but the subtle breezes
made the air comfortably warm. We visited the Marahubi Palace ruins approximately
4 miles up the coast from Stone Town and
stared slack-jawed at the palatial site, imagining the self-indulgence and utter decadence
Sultan Baraghash partook in on the grounds
that housed his wife and 99 concubines. We
observed the mighty supporting columns and
many Persian Baths and pieced together what
the palace would have looked like presently
had a fire not destroyed the property in 1899.
Seeing the palace was certainly a bonus, but
really we traveled to Zanzibar to take relaxation to a whole new level, so we headed
north on a scouting mission and determine if
Nungwi was the best beach to stay at for our
next leg of the trip. Sitting under the thatched
roof of an open-air restaurant on the water,
enjoying some chapattis, lentils and a couple
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69
AFRICA
Transportation – Old and New
A view of the shipping options off the coast of
Zanzibar, Tanzania - a high-speed ferry or a traditional sailing dhow
Information
70
cold Tusker beers, we clinked our glasses to
tranquility.
As evening slowly approached, familiar
scenes of candlelit kiosks and fresh catches
began to repeat themselves and we got the
distinct feeling that Zanzibar doesn’t see much
change – which nobody seemed to mind. We
treated ourselves to a “fancy” dinner at the
upscale Zanzibar Serena (which cost us about
$11 USD apiece), then made our way to one
of the smaller oceanfront hotels that the locals
claimed had the best views in Stone Town – they
weren’t lying. We arrived at the expansive terrace overlooking the water and ordered some
drinks, then choose three flavors of tobacco
off the hookah menu. We sat cross-legged on a
Persian rug with elaborately-decoracted pillows
sipping cocktails and smoking from our hookah which rested perfectly on a small wooden
table situated next to us. We laughed and drank
with locals, met other travelers from all over the
world, and basically just enjoyed the stars, the
moon and the cool night air.
For our last day in Stone Town we had
arranged to swim with dolphins, so we had to
get an early start. Though I’m not a regular
caffeine drinker, I found the thick, rich coffee
of East Africa irresistible, and fortunately it’s
served in abundance on Zanzibar. After being
outfitted with snorkel gear at a beach along
the west coast, we drifted for roughly an hour
(which seemed like an eternity due to my handicap of motion sickness), then caught up with a
school of dolphins swimming approximately 15
feet from us. Since they were wild, we never got
a chance to come in actual contact with them,
but just swimming that close was worth the $7
USD we paid. We then swam to a large lagoon
that housed an abundance of sea life like I had
never seen before, including a turtle that our
guide claimed was over 100 years old. The only
unfortunate outcome of the day was that we
didn’t have enough time to take a tour of the
spice plantations, but I guess that just means
I’ll have to make a return trip to Zanzibar very
soon.
After two days we left Stone Town for
Nungwi along the north coast. This area of
the island is known for its seemingly endless
stretches of beach, its plentiful game fishing,
and cheap guesthouses for young travelers. We
paid $5 USD per night for our beach bungalow
and access to showers. The sand was flourwhite and just as fine to the touch, the water,
a luminescent turquoise blue. Friendly beach
bars with swinging hammocks and talking parrots enticed thirsty patrons to take a load off
and watch the tide move out with a tall glass of
rum in hand or a cool bucket of beers. At night,
guests had the option of paying $2 USD for an
all-you-can-eat seafood feast on the beach, or
walking down the road to one of the village’s
oceanfront restaurants. Acoustic guitars gently
strumming classic Swahili music were regular fixtures at late-night bonfires, and moonlit
swims in the temperate waters were nothing
out of the ordinary. Travelers from all walks
of life came together with locals to share stories and enjoy each other’s company around a
crackling fire. Lying in bed, the gently crashing
surf lulled us to sleep each night, only occasionally awakened by the distant thud of a coconut
hitting the fine, white sand.
We stayed in Zanzibar for 10 days and
returned only when we learned the strike had
been resolved. Our friends all said we looked
“different” when we arrived back in Kenya, but
it wasn’t our deep olive tans or my now sunbleached blond hair – they said it was in our
faces, particularly our smiles. Zanzibar Island
is one of those truly beautiful places on earth
where your entire attitude and frame of mind
can be transformed through the simple pleasures of fresh fish, ocean air, and juicy slices of
mango. YVC
About the Writer
After attending the University of San Francisco, James
lived in East Africa, then eventually settled in New
York to pursue a full-time career. He landed a job with
one of the elite luxury personal concierge companies
and worked as a Dedicated Account Manager for nine
months before leaving to pursue other endeavours.
He now devotes most of his time to Africa’s charitable causes as a freelance grant writer. In addition,
he plays semi-professional rugby for the New York
Athletic Club and remains an avid traveler.
[email protected]
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71
ITALY
The Amalfi
Coast
& Sicily
Vertigo
Sublime
WRITTEN BY MIRIAM CAIN
Replete with history, the land that gracefully
extends along the warm waters of the Amalfi
Coast has seen the birth of empires and cradled the growth of civilisations. Arguably the
best way to explore the west coast of Italy is
by boat, providing easy access to quiet backwaters and anchorages far from the madding
crowds of landlubbers.
72
T
he beauty and tranquillity of the
Amalfi coastline stems from a combination of old-world charm and
Italy’s appreciation of the finer
things in life, making it a wonderful
place for an intriguing yet relaxing
holiday. Follow in the footsteps of countless writers and composers and allow yourself to succumb
to the allure of the Amalfi Coast with a charter
aboard Parsifal III, followed by a few days residing
ashore to explore the historic island of Sicily.
Coloured by a long history of splendour and
suffering, the Amalfi Coast has barely changed
since the Roman emperors made it their headquarters in the first century AD. A place where
lemon terraces are chiselled into mountainsides,
it is too steep to support much in the way of
modern development, meaning this stretch of
landscape largely remains idyllically untouched.
Unsurprisingly, the Amalfi Coast has long been
a magnet for travellers attracted to its glorious cultural and artistic heritage, beautiful countryside
and wonderful food. Hotels and restaurants can
be found in splendid villas and medieval convents,
some of which welcomed the first Grand Tourists
almost two centuries ago. From cities boasting
innumerable treasures of Renaissance palaces,
baroque masterpieces and Roman remains, to
sun-drenched coves hugging the emerald sea, the
warmth and personality of Italy shines through.
The islands speckled along the Amalfi coastline have the same irresistible appeal. From the
sophisticated islands of Capri and Ischia to the
dramatically positioned towns that dot the mainland, your charter will take you on a stimulating
journey of old-world charm and five-star luxury.
You will step aboard your private yacht in the
bustling Bay of Naples. Your home for the next eight
days, the 54m Parsifal III is hailed to be the fastest
Perini Navi yet built. As you sail across the bay to the
volcanic island of Ischia with a Campari and soda to
hand, watch the beguiling landscape scattered with
relics of bygone empires fade in the distance before
you turn your attention to fresh wonders.
Known as ‘the island of well being’, Ischia is
famous for its thermal springs and therapeutic
spas, and has long been a source of inspiration for
artists, musicians and writers. Here you can step
ashore and browse the boutiques of San’t Angelo,
or anchor off San Montano Bay and take the tender
to the Mezzatorre Resort & Spa for a thermal treatment in the resort’s old tower. Dating back to the
16th century, the tower was used by local natives
to defend themselves against the Saracens and it
affords wonderful views over Mount Epomeo, the
Gulf of Naples and Vesuvius. Following an afternoon of watersports in the sun-drenched bay of
Punta Molino, dine on the perfectly situated terrace
of the Grand Hotel Punta Molino, which promises
panoramic views over the imposing castle that was
once the summer residence of the kings of Aragon.
After a relaxing night aboard Parsifal III it is time
to sail back across the bay to the mainland. Balanced
like a ship’s prow high above the sea, Ravello has no
beach but makes up for it with gardens and views
that have inspired more than their share of masterpieces, most famously D. H. Lawrence’s book
Lady Chatterley’s Lover. One of the many gardens in
Ravello, that belonging to Villa Cimbrone, is generally acknowledged to be Italy’s most romantic,
with its well-named Terrace Of Infinity. Roman
aristocrats took refuge here from the barbarians
in the 5th century AD, and at the beginning of
the 20th century the medieval villa and its gardens were made into the stunning setting
that they are today. Stroll down the wisteria-draped Avenue Of The Immensity until
you reach the Belvedere Of Infinity, a sheer
4,000m drop with busts of emperors and
the thinnest railings between you and the
dramatic drop. The 13th century Villa Rufolo,
with its Moorish cloister, is more famous for
virtuosos than views. Wagner was so smitten
by the gardens here that he re-created its grounds as Klingsor’s magic
gardens of seduction in his opera
Parsifal. Every summer, the gardens
are the stage for a festival in honour
of Wagner, and your charter broker
will be happy to secure tickets for you
prior to your charter. Italians know
how to extract maximum pleasure and
beauty from everyday things and it is
worth extending your stay in Ravello
to sip a little prosecco wine as you
enjoy the tranquillity of an evening on
the square.
Ravello Scenic Villa
Ravello has no beach but makes up for it with
gardens and views that have inspired more than
their share of masterpieces,
Villa Cimbrone Balcony
One of the statues on the balcony on
the sea of Villa Cimbrone, one of the
most famous villas of the Amalfi
Coast in Ravello.
73
ITALY
Famous town of Positano
Dramatically positioned alongside ice-cream
coloured houses spilling almost vertically down
the terraced mountain
“ the Amalfi
Coast has long
been a magnet
for travellers
attracted to its
glorious
cultural
and artistic
heritage,
beautiful
countryside
and wonderful
food”
74
Pompeii is close by and the following day your
crew will accompany you with refreshments as
you wander around the ruins. A ghost town since
AD79, Pompeii was buried under tiny stones and
ash from Vesuvius until 1763 when excavation
of the city began. Much of our knowledge of the
Romans and their way of life has come from
Pompeii, whose state of preservation is astonishing. As you wander in and out of people’s houses
and sit on their seats in the amphitheatre you will
be transported back to a remarkable civilisation
founded on slavery.
Fortunately the town of Sorrento, perched on
the cliffs, was far enough from Vesuvius to survive
the blast that buried Pompeii. In the early 19th
century, Grand Tourists fled the hustle and bustle
of Naples for Sorrento and its calm and comfortable atmosphere, which still remains today.
Before joining the ‘It’ crowd in Capri, step ashore
and embrace the wraparound views of the Bay
of Naples from the cliff-top terraced walkways of
the Museo Correale di Terranova, followed by a
refreshing ice cream from a gelateria. For those
who have worked up more of an appetite, reservations can be made at the Excelsior Vittoria’s
‘Bosuet’ terrace and bar, whose guestbook boasts
many famous names including Richard Strauss,
The Prince of Wales who also returned Edward
VII, and more recently Sophia Lauren and Luciano
Pavarotti.
Originally part of the Sorrentine peninsula,
the island of Capri has been through many personality changes over the centuries. The dazzling
island was the playground of Augustus and his
son Tiberius and, as one of the world’s first tourist destinations, Capri’s fate was sealed in 1826
with the discovery of the iridescent Blue Grotto,
a spectacular cave which is illuminated a cobalt
blue certain times of the day when the sunlight
passes through an underwater cavity and shines
through the water creating a blue reflection that
illuminates the cavern. During the summer the
island is a victim of its own charms as visitors
arrive in flocks. Thankfully, aboard Parsifal III
you can enjoy a vast array of watersports around
the more secluded anchorages to the west of the
island. As the crowds depart late in the afternoon, the discreet glamour of Capri emerges.
Take a hair-raising ride up to Anacapri to visit the
paradisiacal gardens of Villa San Michele before
an aperitif on the Piazzetta and dinner at the
Quisisana – an A-list favourite since the 1930s. The
next morning, wake to a beautiful sunrise over the
Faraglioni rocks or, if you’re early enough, take the
chairlift and soar above a profusion of flowers to
the top of Monte Solaro to experience a staggering
sunrise illuminating views of Capri and the Bay of
Naples.
On day four or five, depending on your preference, you’ll sail across the Gulf of Salerno to
the charming town of Positano, dramatically positioned alongside ice-cream coloured houses spilling almost vertically down the terraced mountain.
At the peak of the dolce vita era, Positano rivalled
Capri for jet-set glamour and the town is still popular, but minus the day-trippers that flock to Capri
thanks to the mayor’s ruling to minimise noise and
promote the finer things in life. Both the harbour
and the off-lying islets, known as Li Galli, are ideal
for a leisurely day of watersports. Enjoy an apéritif
on the terrace of Le Sirenuse and admire the view of
Parsifal III in the harbour below as the crew set up
dinner on the aft deck, ready for your return.
Further down the coast, the traditional fishing
town of Amalfi boasts past glories as a maritime
state. The town is no larger in size than neighbouring Positano or Ravello, but the whole coastline
was named after it because of its history. Home to
wealthy Italian merchants, defeated by Pisa, and
destroyed by an earthquake, Amalfi was a maritime republic rivalling Pisa, Genoa and Venice.
At its core is Piazza Duomo, from which a flight
of stairs sweeps to an immense cathedral whose
façade overlooks the stunning coastline below.
Explore the town before retiring for an overnight
sail south towards Sicily and the Aeolian islands.
Volcanoes created the Aeolian islands, and two
of the islands’ volcanoes are still active. Inhabited
since the fifth millennium BC, they were named
after Aeolus, god of the winds, and are perfect for
peace and quiet and, naturally, sailing. You’ll awake
to find yourself anchored off the volcanic island
of Stromboli, where the volcano has been in a
state of near-continuous eruption for 2,000 years.
Characterised by its black volcanic sand, the island
has many crystal-clear bays, ideal for watersports.
Stromboli is best observed at sunset from the decks
of a yacht, so in the early evening set sail for the
most fashionable of the Aeolian islands, Panarea,
and join the Milanese yachting crowd with an
Gulf of Naples
apéritif on deck while watching the sun set over
neighbouring Stromboli. This is where jet-setting,
trend-setting Italians hang out. Step ashore and
join them at Da Pina, just above the harbour – the
family-run restaurant is considered to be the best
on the island. After a peaceful night’s anchorage,
set sail for Panarea’s offshore islands, and anchor
off the impressive Basiluzzo for lunch before setting
sail for the largest island in the chain, Lipari. Home
to some of the Aeolian’s most notable buildings
including an 11th century cathedral, impressive
castles and a 16th century Spanish fort, the island
has the air of a place where time has stood still. For
great atmosphere and heady music, the Kasbah
in the main town has a relaxed and stylish atmosphere. Awake for your final sail aboard Parsifal
III through the Messina Straits and the fleets of
tall-masted swordfishing boats to Taormina – the
Monte Carlo of Sicily, where you will bid farewell to
Parsifal III and her crew and join the landlubbers
ashore for three or four nights.
The rugged island of Sicily is yours to explore for the
next three days. Strategically positioned between North
Africa and Italy, Sicily has suffered a long history of invasion and the influence of the Greeks, Romans, Byzantines,
Arabs and Normans is visible in the form of beautiful temples, colourful mosaics and historic buildings. Towering
250 metres above the stunning coastline, Taormina is
one of Sicily’s most famous hilltop towns. It is one of the
smartest and most exclusive small towns in Italy, so why
not stroll past the boutiques and restaurants before taking
a helicopter tour over the spectacular summit of Mount
Etna? Situated in a vast natural park, Mount Etna at 3,000
metres, is Europe’s highest active volcano. It has five craters at its summit and 260 volcanic cones flanked by rivers
of lava. From here, journey to the southwest coast and the
Valley Of Temples, where the vast archaeological remains
are unrivalled by any in the world.
Sitting on its own rocky outcrop and flanked
by two sandy beaches on Sicily’s south eastern
coast, Il Castello Di Falconara has been built in
stages since the 14th century. The original defensive structure is a dramatic sight, whereas inside,
the 17th and 18th century guest quarters provide
an array of reception rooms and terraces and
beautiful gardens. Dine among antiques and family heirlooms and enjoy a moonlit stroll along the
private beach before retiring to your own castle
room for the night. From a castle to a Benedictine
abbey, the Santa Maria Del Bosco is located in the
hills south of Sicily’s capital Palermo. Dramatically
situated at the edge of an oak wood, the abbey is
a unique property with accommodation in cells
(once occupied by Benedictine monks) overlooking one of two huge 16th century cloisters. The
surrounding countryside and villages provide an
insight into a side of Sicily that is rarely seen by
visitors.
The capital Palermo, which under Saracen and
Norman rule became one of the most important
cities in Europe, lies to the north of the island. An
opulent city, Palermo has many fine examples of
Norman and Baroque architecture, including the
Palazzo Federico. One of the oldest and historically most important buildings in Palermo, the 12th
century palazzo’s sleeping quarters have been
kept exactly as they would have been in the 17th
century, apart from added bathrooms. Located in
the old centre of Palermo, the palazzo is a great
base for your final few days on Sicily from which
to explore the Cathedral, and other astounding
baroque churches and buildings. YVC
About the Writer
Miriam Cain is the communications and publications
manager for Camper & Nicholsons International. She is
also the managing editor for the the luxury travel magazine Sea & I.
[email protected]>
Parsifal III General Information
Length: ............................. 177.17’ [54m]
Beam: ............................... 35.1’ [10.7m]
Draft: ..................................14.76’ [4.5m]
Builder: ..................................Perini Navi
Year: ................................................2005
Engines: ...................Caterpillar C30 12V
Speed: ................................. 10/12 knots
Cabins: ...............................................5/6
Guests: ...............................................12
Crew: ....................................................9
Information
CNI can create a unique charter along
the Amalfi Coast and through the Aeolian
Islands. For further information on
Parsifal III or any of the yachts in the
CNI fleet visit www.cnconnect.com
75
ASIA
The
Andaman
Islands
Floating in splendid isolation in
the middle of the Bay of Bengal
Administered by India, the 300 or so Andaman Islands are the highest peaks of a submerged mountain range that stretches from Sumatra in the south to the Irawaddy delta
in the north. The Andaman Islands have everything you could desire from an adventur-
ous eco-tourism charter destination. There are literally hundreds of deserted islands to
explore, each one seemingly more spectacular than the last. The beaches are magnificently pristine. The snorkeling and scuba diving is amongst the best in the world with an
almost untouched marine ecosystem. There is a live volcano, thousands of square miles
WRITTEN BY PAUL JOHNSON
of untouched jungle, exotic and thriving wildlife and primitive hunter-gatherer tribes. The
fishing (catch & release) is probably the best in the world. The Andamans is also starting to develop a superb reputation as a frontier surfing destination where the reef breaks
have never been surfed before.
76
S
itting astride the ancient monsoon
trade routes between China and
India, the Andaman Islands first
appeared in our historical records
during the 2nd Century BC. From
the earliest recorded times the
Andamans were infamous for the ferocious, cannibalistic pygmies who inhabited the islands.
Bizarrely the inhabitant’s themselves led to
the islands being named the “Andaman” Islands.
The small stature of the pygmies and their tradition of wearing trailing grass skirts that resembled
a monkey’s tail led to the belief in surrounding
countries that these islands were inhabited by
devotees of the Hindu monkey god “Handuman”.
This resulted in the people being known as the
“Handuman people” which ultimately gave rise
to the name “Andaman Islands”.
With the Andaman Islands’ strategic position
directly across the major monsoon trade routes
in the Bay of Bengal and with an abundance
of fresh water and wildlife, it is very surprising
that the Andaman Islands were not colonized or
settled in ancient times by India, China or Siam.
Perhaps the fearsome reputation of the inhabitants discouraged visitors. It is also likely that
the pirates, who used the Andaman Islands as a
base to attack merchant shipping in the Bay of
Bengal, exaggerated the tales of cannibals and
warlike tribes to keep competitors and authorities away.
The descendents of these ferocious negroid
pygmies are still there today, although they are
somewhat friendlier than their reputation would
suggest. Amazingly these tribes still live a traditional hunter-gatherer existence in tracts of
Andaman jungle that have been set aside for
them.
The only warlike tribe today is the Sentinelese
who inhabit a tiny isolated island called North
Sentinel. This island is roughly circular with a
diameter of only 4 miles. Completely surrounded by fringing coral reef and deep ocean, the
Sentinelese live out their lives in complete isolation from the outside world. Following the Indian
Ocean tsunami in December 2004, the Indian
authorities sent a military helicopter to North
Sentinel island to check on the Sentinelese. The
helicopter returned to Port Blair with several
arrows embedded in the underside of the fuselage. The message was clear: “We are fine, just
leave us alone!”
In 2001 we ran a charter in the Andaman
Islands for a UNDP sponsored scientific survey of
the surrounding coral reefs. During this survey 3
new species of coral were discovered in a survey
that encompassed hundreds of miles of pristine
reef and a unique and intact underwater ecosystem. Clearly there was much to protect. The
Andamans was duly declared a World Heritage
Site in 2002.
The Andaman Islands are difficult to get to,
which keeps them well off the tourist trail. There
are only 2 flights per day (one from Kolkota and
one from Chennai on the Indian mainland) into
Port Blair which is the administrative centre for
the islands. There are no international flights into
Port Blair, except the occasional private jet.
Port Blair is a quaint, colonial, Indian town
that looks like it has been dragged from the 1930s
into the 21st Century. Three-wheeler auto rickshaws weave between the more sedate “Lincoln
Ambassador” taxis, surrounded by the constant
cacophony of sounds and colors of a busy Indian
market town. An Indian policeman dressed in
khaki uniform and a white pith helmet stands at
each road intersection, somehow managing the
seemingly suicidal task of directing the traffic.
Holy cows, beautifully attired with jewellery and
painted horns, stroll unconcernedly along the
streets ignoring both the traffic and the policemen.
Tourism is very much in its infancy in the
Andaman Islands. There are only a tiny handful
of yachts that offer charters in this incredibly
remote area. With almost no tourists and hardly
any fishing fleet we have on occasion spent up
to a month in the Andamans without ever seeing
another boat or person. This is a truly unique
SV Ilala
SV Ilala a 63ft cutter rigged sloop which has
been chartering in this area for 8 years. Ilala
offers sailing, scuba diving, kayaking and surfing
adventure trips. www.ilala.net
MV Taipan IV
MV Taipan IV A 64ft luxury motor yacht which is
available for charter in the Andaman Islands.
77
ASIA
charter destination for adventurous people who
really want to escape from the modern world for
a while.
The Andaman Islands have never been commercially fished. As a result the fish life is truly
incredible. As the fish in this area generally die
of old age rather than being caught, they grow to
a remarkable size. It is quite a strange feeling to
be regularly swimming with fish that are much
larger than you.
I have run out of superlatives to describe the
fishing in this area. During a recent trip to the
Andamans we went fishing on most days from
our dinghy. We would set off from the yacht in the
evening trolling lures behind the dinghy along the
reef edge. On occasions we actually managed to
travel up to 300m without catching a fish!
Of all the islands in the Andamans the remote
volcano islands of Barren and Narcondum are
unique. Located about 100 miles to the east of the
main Andaman Islands, these volcanic islands rise
almost vertically from ocean depths of more than
2000m. Narcondum is a long-extinct volcano.
Barren is very much live with spectacular lava
flows into the sea. Diving and snorkeling around
these islands is an unforgettable experience. At
Barren island, the underwater landscape has a
backdrop of black volcanic ash. Against this matte
black background the normally vibrant colors of
the coral and reef fish seem almost psychedelic.
It is essential to plan to visit the Andamans
between December and May. December to the
end of February is the best time for sailing in the
Andamans with warm, sunny conditions and a
reliable 20 knots of wind. March and April have
little wind and are the best months for diving
and snorkeling – this is also the time of year
when the migratory whales visit the Andamans.
April is the best month for surfing with large
swell from the south-west that gives spectacular
breaks along the west coast.
From May to December the Andamans is
effectively closed with strong winds, very rough
sea conditions and continuous torrential rain. YVC
“This is a truly
unique charter
destination for
adventurous
people who
really want to
escape from
the modern
world”
About the Writer
Paul Johnson is the owner of Ilala Yacht Charters which
offers adventure sailing, diving and kayaking holidays in
the Andaman Islands. All photos courtesy of Ilala Yacht
Charters. [email protected]
[email protected]
Information
Holy Cows
Beautifully attired with jewellery and painted
horns stroll unconcernedly along the streets
ignoring both the traffic and the policemen.
78
World-Class Fishing
The fish in this area generally die of old age rather
than being caught, so the ones caught tend to be a
remarkable size.
Emerald Yacht is a US based booking agency
that offers two superb yachts for charter
in the remote Mergui Archipelago. Contact
Skip Mansfield for further details. Email:
[email protected]
Tel: +1 941 639 4442
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79
SOUTHERN FRANCE
Cruising the
Camargue
WRITTEN BY
CAPTAIN MICHAEL HOWORTH
PHOTOGRAPHS BY
FRANCES HOWORTH
The black pearl
of the Med
Cruising the canals of the Camargue in
the South of France is to sample a vacation experience like no other, as you enjoy
the local food and wine together with the
flexibility, freedom and fun that only a selfcatering yacht vacation can offer.
80
T
he Camargue is one of the most
remarkable regions in Southern
France, combining untamed countryside with traditional villages,
walled crusader towns, modern
resorts, delightful fishing ports and
the medieval walled city of Agde, often called the
‘black pearl of the Mediterranean.’ At Sete stands
the entrance to the spectacular Great Sea Lake of
Etang du Thau; the many fishing ports here make
it impossible not to stop and sample some seafood delicacies.
The Canal du Rhone a Sete provides effortless cruising between Beaucaire and Sete, then
into the Great Lake. Chartering a yacht here is an
unhurried affair, where crews spend a few hours
sunbathing on a nearby Mediterranean beach, or
visiting one of the bustling fishing ports to taste
the local delicacies.
The Camargue is a triangular delta in the south
of France covering 140,000 hectares. It’s made up
of wetlands, pastures, dunes and salt marshes
,which are a major centre for salt production,
producing up to 15,000 tons a day at harvest-time.
The area provides a home for a unique collection
of flora, including Tamarisk and Narcissi. The
fauna includes egrets and ibises so it is no wonder it is the most important wetlands site in the
Mediterranean as such and attracts over one million visitors a year. Many come to see the famous
white horses and the pink flamingos, which have
become the symbol of the area which, in 1970,
was granted National Park status. People visit the
Reserve between April and November to enjoy the
beach, go bird watching or attend some of the cultural events specific to the area, such as the gypsy
pilgrimage. Tourists can rent horses, go on ‘safari’
in a four-wheel drive vehicle, and use the beaches
at Arles, Beauduc and Les Saintes or; like us, take
a boat trip through the area at a leisurely pace.
Traveling the canals of the south of France by
yacht is a cross between caravanning and walking
in the countryside. That said, I do not think I have
enjoyed my days afloat recently quite as much as
I did when motoring the canals of the Camargue
aboard a 42 foot Magnifique chartered through
Connoisseur Afloat. We boarded our craft at the
company’s base in Beaucaire not so very far from
Nimes. Well-informed and happy-to-please shorebased crews quickly and efficiently went through
the ropes and asked if I had any yacht handling
experience. Once I understood that there was
only one propeller, grasped the fact that there was
no need for a compass, or a speed log, I was well
away, and after a concerted effort by my crew to
empty the shelves of the nearby supermarket, we
set off on what was our very first canal experience.
The boat is surprisingly well equipped with air
conditioning, two steering positions, and a useful
bow thruster and my only significant observation
would be that it would have been nice to have a
small generator or an inverter for charging the
batteries of computers and cameras for those stupid enough to work rather than enjoy the cruising
experience.
Our trip was a one-way journey from
Beaucaire to Marseillan, sailing along; first the
Canal du Rhône à Sète that meanders through
the Camargue then, across the Etang de Thau a
large shallow salt lake, before entering the Canal
du Midi the historic 17th century waterway which
links the Atlantic with the Mediterranean. Each
of these areas would offer spectacularly different
scenery and experiences, so we planned meticulously beforehand to enjoy them all to the full
during trip.
Noily Prat
The bottles are of the Vermouth called Noily Prat
which is made in the town of Marseillan.
81
SOUTHERN FRANCE
Mèze
cafes, shops and restaurants inside the picturesque harbor.
General Specifications
Type: .............................Magnifique 8+2
LOA: .................................... 14.5 Metres
Beam: ................................. 4.10 Metres
Draught: ....................................1 Metre
Height above water: ...........2.2 Metres
Builders: ................ Porter & Haylett Ltd
Wroxham England
Engine: ............................... 60 hp Nanni
(marinised Mercedes Block)
Bowthruster: ...... 8 hp electric powered
Fuel Capacity: ....................... 350 Litres
Fuel Consumption:... 2.5 litres per hour
Fresh water capacity: ..........1000 litres
Berths: ..8 fixed 2 converted from sofas
Speed: ........................................8 knots
Steering positions: ..............................2
Air conditioning: ...... Forward and after
sleeping cabins
Heating: ................ Webasto throughout
82
Our boat was clean and both comfortable and
well maintained. How crowded she would be if she
carried her full complement of ten, I dread to think,
but several passing yachts clearly proved us wrong
and I can only suggest that their crews ate ashore a
good deal and showered in facilities provided at marinas. Our reduced complement found the yacht very
comfortable and my feeling is that a crew of between
four and eight on board is, perhaps, the ideal number.
Her spacious sun deck is great for eating al fresco and
she comes with all the equipment you might need
including ample refrigeration space.
Our first stop was Saint Gilles, a town known
as the gateway to the Camargue, famous for its
bulls and white horses. The town is named after a
nobleman that became a hermit and took refuge
here in the 8th century. His exemplary life has
since inspired generations of Catholics who built
an abbey here in the 12th century in his honor. The
Lonely Planet Guide suggests, rather quaintly, that
shortly after that the towns candle went out, and
perhaps they are right! Even so, there are snatches
of culture dating back to Roman times and a house
where Pope Clement IV is said to have been born.
Moving on we passed through low wetlands
the banks of our canal stacked high with cut
phragmite reeds or sagno drying in the sunshine
as they wait their turn to become thatched roofs of
the future. Less than twenty local men, Sagneurs,
now retain the hereditary right to harvest these
reeds and do so traditionally, cutting and turning them all by hand. Swallows and egrets dive
bomb the canal; as we motor on turtles cling to
waterside tree roots, basking in the sunshine, and
we were even lucky enough to spot small water
rats called Coipu. Marshes have been turned into
rice paddy fields in a traditional checkerboard
pattern. Fields on slightly more solid ground are
the grazing homes to the Camargue bulls, whose
narrow foreheads and dark grey horns sit above
alert eyes that watch as canal boats cruise on by.
Cowboy like horsemen, sitting on special saddles
astride white stallions, charge about through shallow water as they round them up and move them
to pastures new. In the evenings, the sky can turn
almost pink, as flocks of pretty flamingos seek out
their roosts for their night-time resting.
We arrived in Aigues-Mortes, a medieval walled
Crusader town whose ramparts today are as robust
as ever they were. The town sits stranded nearly four
miles from the sea. It was built by Louis IX as a port
and remains a symbol of human obstinacy because
it was clearly silted up before it was ever completed
and, despite it being the salt capital of the Camargue,
became a virtual backwater almost as soon as it was
completed. It is perhaps because of this that the
town is so perfectly intact today. Henry James writing 100 years ago said the town was hardly alive but
was neatly embalmed. I doubt he would say that
today as 130,000 tourists flock there each year. They
come to do as we did, walk the near mile of solid
stone ramparts that surround the town that is dominated by the Tour Constance, which was the original
ports lighthouse and subsequently served as a prison, which is not surprising given that its walls are up
to 20 feet thick. That evening we ate under the stars,
taking dinner at one of the many restaurants that
fill the town square. Next morning, Sunday, it was
market day and we took full advantage of the edible
goodies on sale, walking back to the boat with our
newly purchased baskets bursting at the seams.
The scenery changed again and the canal
passed through stonewall banks with water either
side of the walls. It was here that the waterway runs
parallel with the sea and at one point, close to the
Abbey de Maguelonne we stopped for lunch, mooring alongside the towpath and taking our bicycles
to the beach and abbey. That evening with what
can only be described by the skipper as immaculate planning and by his crew as a sheer fluke, we
arrived in Frontignan just as the bridge made the
last of its three daily openings, and passed into the
town made famous by producing 2 million bottles
of Muscat, the sweet wine, every year.
Shortly after leaving town the next day we
left the Canal du Rhône à Sète and entered the
Etang. This shallow sea lake is heavily farmed by
oystermen, producing tons of the shelled aphrodisiac in numbers to equal the production of
northern France. We visited the ports of Mèze
and Marseillan, choosing to spend the night in
the latter. It is here that Noilly Prat, the vermouth,
is made and the factory offers a fascinating tour
of inspection where guides explain the complex,
time-consuming process behind the mixing and
blending that goes on to produce the quintessen-
tial aperitif. We feasted on local oysters that night
and I have an observation to make to would-be
oyster openers: potato peelers are poor substitutes for a proper oyster knife! We also enjoyed
La Tielle, or squid pie, a local specialty made with
bread dough filled with baby octopus in a spicy
tomato sauce, which was quite delicious.
It did not take very long the next day for us to
cross the final stretch of lake and enter the Canal
du Midi or Riquets Ditch, as the less reverend
tend to call it. Our trip would take us along the
canal through the vineyards of Langudoc towards
Homps, but that is another story for another issue.
For our crew, the highpoints of the trip included our visit to Aigues-Mortes, the historic sights,
and the Sunday open market. The wildlife of the
Camargue was outstanding with the horses, cattle,
and pretty flamingos. Because we are foodies,
we adored the markets selling local produce and
particularly enjoyed our tour of the Noilly Pratt
factory in Marseillan. Will we be back? Most certainly, I can think of no better way of combining
the love of boating with the sheer joy of walking in
the countryside and eating and drinking its produce. It is the perfect family holiday and I would
recommend it and Connoisseur, the company
that runs the boats so well, to everyone. YVC
About the Writer and Photographer
Frances & Michael Howorth have been travelling
together for the last 25 years, initially working aboard
cruise liners and then as crew aboard luxury private
and charter yachts. Latterly their trips have been confined to joint photojournalistic assignments aboard
More Information
Travel
Connoisseur bases are conviently located within a reasonable distance from an airport. Nimes
Montepellier and Perpignan are all served by budget airlines operating out of the UK. Marseilles is
served by Air France and British Airways. There are smaller airports at Béziers and Carcassonne.
Charter Costs
Our trip took place in May when the cost of this boat was priced at €2365 for a week. It rises to
€3700 per week at the height of the season. The only boat based extras is the cost of the fuel and
this is charged at €6 per hour of engine time used and deducted from the fuel deposit paid at time
of taking the boat. In ten days we clocked up 42 hours of use. A one way supplement of €100 is
charged and both base car parking and hire of bicycles must be allowed for if required. Marinas
charge very little, seldom more than €25 per night and generally include water and electricity, but
truthfully many ports are free as is the towpath. Why pay if you do not need to?
Charts, Pilots & Guides
There is a guidebook on board each boat, which truthfully is a little out of date, still quoting, for
example, marina fees in Francs long after the euro became the currency of France. We used the
much lauded multi lingual Midi Camargue Waterway Guide published in France by Éditions du Breil
available on the internet, in better nautical bookshops or direct from Connosisseur at time of booking. My advice is to buy it as early it is a perfect planning tool and invaluable if you want to get the
most out of the holiday trip.
ships and yachts. Their voyages of discovery have
taken them to Africa, North and South America, the
Caribbean, the Mediterranean, India, and a plethora of
islands in between with such diversity as to include
Tristan de Cunha, St Helena, and the Maldive Islands.
Paperwork
Very little is needed and what there can will be handled by the base staff who know all the
ropes and hand it all over at the time of the boat briefing. If using credit cards in France it is
sometimes useful to carry a photo ID.
[email protected]
Information
Weather
It was very pleasant in early May and whilst we confess we did not utilise the air conditioning
we own up to firing up the webasto central heating on a couple of damp evenings. With the
heat of the summer time will come crowds, more boats and longer passage times!
www.connoisseurafloat.com
Camargue, famous for its bulls and white horses
83
YACHT PROFILE
Super Yacht
My Iris
Ovid, Homer, and other poets of great and
ancient repute agree that the goddess Iris
bore messages from celestial powers and
delivered them to mortals. They say that in
transit between heaven and earth, she left
behind her footprint, a rainbow. The superyacht My Iris is fittingly named, as she provides a beauteous bridge from the quotidian
to the divine.
WRITTEN BY SCOTT ROSE
84
O
riginally built in 2003 by Trinity Yachts
and named Seahawk, the vessel was refitted in 2005 and christened My Iris. The
original designer was Claudette Bonville while
Marc Thee oversaw the refit. Many of the original
features were retained, and indeed, both designers continue giving input for new interior touches.
Both act in fulfillment of the owner’s exquisite
good taste.
My Iris is 150-feet long with a 28-foot beam
and an 8-foot draft. Her hull and superstructure
are aluminum, while her engines, generators, stabilizers and other seagoing essentials are of the
very finest. Charter guests will not want for diversionary playthings; My Iris stores a 19-foot Nautica
tender, two kayaks, complete professional-level
scuba gear for four, water skis, snorkel gear, fishing gear, and the enticing list goes on.
The most seductive feature of My Iris, though,
is without question her soothing if jaw-dropping
interior design. Many yacht interiors have a distinctly masculine or feminine feel, but that of My
Iris avoids those leanings to make all who enter
comfortable. As a matter of fact, comfort of every
sort was so important to the owner that she mandated a look of “barefoot elegance,” the creation of
glamorous spaces conducive to stylish informality.
Because the owner wanted to be able to hold fes-
PHOTO: COURTESY MARK ARMSTRONG WWW.ARMSTRONGADVERTISING.COM
Aboard for an
unforgettable,
ultra-chic
charter
experience
tive parties spread over various areas, an emphasis
was placed on achieving flow from space to space.
Marc Thee says: “Soft but dramatic backgrounds
were our goal. We accomplished this by choosing
clean classic lines, soft blues and peachy neutrals
as the common colorations.”
Cameron Zentz of Marc-Michaels Interior
Design, Inc. affirms that the owner was conscientiously involved in the refit process. Beyond
wanting to achieve “barefoot elegance,” she wanted and procured the finest custom furnishings
and fabrics. The owner also envisioned a gentle
color palette marked by watery blues, creams, and
peaches to convey a spirit of relaxation. Visual
unity was assured throughout My Iris by the frequent repetition of subtle tonal nuances.
In the main salon one finds the same sumptuous mahogany wood used throughout the yacht.
Champagne-toned silk draperies by Schumacher
with a “Fascination Seaside” accent by Rodolph
grace the windows. The bar has quilted-leather bar stools, while the custom-made sectional
is magnificently complemented by a custommade coffee table in macassar ebony with walnut
accents. On the other side of the coffee table from
the sectional are two custom-made, extra-large
swivel bucket chairs in a gray paisley gaufrage
leather. The lovely J. Robbins Scott pillows on the
sectional are done in silk tapis with an ice-blue
ribbon fringe.
George Schipper is the master chef aboard My
Iris. I asked him about the outfitting of the galley and he told me that it is supplied with every
manner of equipment: a full double oven, a salamander, a full grill, a stove with six burners and a
flat top as well as many first-class food processors,
mixers, and molds. Yet he also made a statement
that will seem particularly auspicious to all who
relish gourmand preparations. “The most important tool in any kitchen is the chef’s heart. When
the chef has his heart in his work, as I do in mine,
that passion is evident in the fine results served
from his kitchen.”
Chef Schipper certainly knows how to make
a diner’s mouth water. Asked to name two of his
most elegant specialties, he says: “An appetizer
of a basil-infused corn broth over a Pacific white
prawn gallette served with crispy shallot and fresh
baby corn. And a main platter consisting of a
spinach tian in a ginger-soy mirin sauce, and
grilled portabella mushrooms and grilled yellow
heirloom tomatoes around a coriander-crusted
loin of lamb.” He adds with pride that he does not
often repeat himself. “I start off with an outline
of what I’m aiming for and as the day progresses,
the dish evolves.” Chef Schipper feels that besides
fine ingredients and a strong conception, the
success of a preparation depends on timing and
coordination.
His scrumptious cuisine may be served in
any of My Iris’s gracious dining areas. The main
dining salon boasts a custom, hand-cut marble mosaic floor border by New World Ceramic,
Mosaic and Stone of Orlando. The central carpeting is inlaid to the mosaic. A fine wood dining
table is surrounded by Italian scroll-back chairs,
which the present owner had reupholstered in a
blue-topaz-gold fabric known as “Florian Silk.”
The same Schumacher/Rodolph window-dressings employed in the main salon adorn the dining
salon.
Aft of the main salon, meanwhile, is the aft
deck dining area, exceedingly consistent with the
concept of “barefoot elegance.” Teak chairs with
a creamy waffle fabric and a custom banquette
provide plush seating while the color scheme
of Wedgwood blues and light champagne tones
soothes the eye. Off the sky lounge is the upper
aft deck dining area, where rattan chairs in a wonderful rich brown are upholstered in a beautiful
cream chenille with a taupe tape border.
Chef Schipper reports that in the past, he has
had flown into St. Lucia in the Caribbean delicacies such as fresh frogs legs and giant guey duc
clams. Asked what he would prepare if requested
to include cognac as an ingredient in a dish, he
said: “Ah ha! I love this question. I would make
a foie gras, apple and white-truffle terrine with
baby frissé, marinating and poaching the terrine
in Louis XIII Grand Champagne Cognac and using
the run-off to make a cognac-caper vinaigrette.”
One could cry from reading the description without being presented with the dish.
Each of My Iris’s five staterooms has an en
suite bath. The Master Stateroom is favorable to
deep, restful sleep. The color palette is a calming blend of praline, cream, platinum, and tones
from the champagne family. The bed is dressed
in silk and printed velvets. Most of the fabrics
are from the acclaimed designer Nancy Corzine;
they include the coverlet, which is of Ms. Corzine’s
“Empire Medallion” fabric. Also present in the
Master Stateroom is a gorgeous, highly-stylized
desk made of a lacquered, tiger’s eye maple. The
appreciative eye will notice that My Iris sports
many a sublime throw pillow. The owner is attentive to the design scheme down to the smallest
detail; as happens, Marc Thee personally designed
many of the remarkable pillows seen throughout
the yacht.
Everywhere aboard are opulent details worthy
of the HGTV show Extreme Yachts. My Iris was
in truth recently shown on that program. There
is a custom-made, slant-legged game table with
24-karat gold inlay and 24-karat gold capped feet.
The fly bridge Jacuzzi is surrounded by the most
inviting, custom-made sunpads, while the teak
floor of the fly bridge is topped by teak chaises in a
“Spangle Sapphire” chenille with white borders, a
My Iris
150-feet long with a 28-foot beam and an 8-foot draft.
Her hull and superstructure are aluminum, while her
engines, generators, stabilizers and other seagoing
essentials are of the very finest.
85
YACHT PROFILE
“Everywhere
aboard are
opulent details
worthy of the
HGTV show
‘Extreme Yachts’
My Iris was in
truth recently
shown on that
program”
86
broad, light bright blue center stripe and graceful
white skirts.
Gillian Gething, RSA is the head stewardess
for My Iris. She informs that there are various Jay
Strongwater and Lalique pieces featured on board,
and that with entertainment being a high priority,
she selects daily from an array of table linens and
accessories, including many eye-catching items
from Neiman Marcus’s Kim Seybert Collection.
Tableware offerings include the elegance personified that are Christofle and Lennox. “For myself,”
says Gillian, “working onboard My Iris has been
a wonderful experience through which I have
learned a tremendous amount, and both been to
amazing places and met delightful people.”
Gillian’s satisfaction in her work doubtless
stems from Captain Mike O’Neill’s thoughtful
and results-getting management style. Asked to
describe it, he says: “I believe that I am only as
successful as the people I surround myself with.
Thus I make every effort when hiring crew to find
the best and most professional folks available, and
then look after them as best I can to keep them
happy. Of equal importance, I try to give each
crewmember as much latitude as possible, allowing each person to really show off their talents and
take pride in their work. I believe that in this way,
charter guests are guaranteed a fantastic, professional, yet personal experience aboard My Iris.”
Captain O’Neill fairly beams when describing the entertainment options available aboard
My Iris. “Electronics upgrades have been completed in the last six months in order to keep My
Iris state-of-the-art. The DVD server and internet
service are second to none. Our “Kaleidescape”
central DVD server is accessible from all guest
cabins and public areas. This makes it possible for
a guest to make a selection from an on-demand
library of more than 600 movies and 400 CDs
by means of a Crestron touch screen remote
and enjoy the selected item virtually anywhere
aboard. It’s a neat trick that people can watch
the same movie from different locations inde-
pendently. Additionally, I-Pod receptacles were
recently added at every location so guests can
plug in their personal devices and listen to their
own music. Each server location has also been
equipped with independent satellite TV receivers.
As regards internet service, we have added a VSAT
satellite system allowing all guests unlimited high
speed internet access from their laptops via our
onboard Wi-Fi system. Even when we are cruising
far off-shore, everybody enjoys continuous internet access.”
The My Iris pilothouse is opulently appointed
and set up for guests to enjoy this key element
of the yachting experience. Behind a specialpurpose coffee table, gaufrage leather upholsters
a comfy banquette placed just far enough away
from the controls to offer a prime viewing of them.
Captain O’Neill remarks: “This is a great place for
guests to sit, have a cup of coffee or a snack and
watch the world go by from the crew’s vantage
point.”
Iris has been a Greek goddess and an opera by
Pietro Mascagni while Irises have been depicted in
paintings by Vincent Van Gogh. The super-yacht My
Iris continues the tradition of applying the appellation to a thing of great beauty. It is no exaggeration
to call My Iris one of the finest flowerings in the noble
world of yacht building and design. YVC
My Iris Information courtesy of Fraser Yachts
www.fraseryachts.com
About the Writer
Scott Rose attended Harvard University at Master’s level.
He writes frequently on luxury markets and travel. His
work has appeared in such prestigious venues as Bon
Appetit and Power magazines. [email protected]
Information
LUXURY GOODS
2006
Porsche Carrera
4 Coupe
REVIEW BY JOSH MAX
Hop behind the wheel, turn the key, rev the engine, throw it into first and you’re immediately reminded of why Porsche remains the ultimate jewel in the crown of sports car
lovers. You don’t drive the Carrera so much as wear it like a finely tailored suit. The crest
on the steering wheel seems to smile up at you and whisper “faster, faster, faster”. And
faster you go as you cruise, turn, downshift, accelerate and watch the needle inch further
to the right.
O
2006 Porsche Carrera 4 Coupe Specs
Price: .................$77,100 ($82,365 as tested)
Horsepower/torque: .......... 325 hp/273 lb-ft
0-60: ........................................... 4.6 seconds
Top speed: ...................................... 179 MPH
Gas: ................................18 city, 26 highway
Miles driven: ............................................290
ur test took us through winding country
roads as well as city streets; each was a sublime pleasure. The Carrera hugs the road
with an iron grip, and its growl practically shakes
the leaves from the trees. Two engine variations are
now available: our tester and the Carrera 4S with
its 355 hp power plant. An optional Sport Chrono
Plus package rolls out for ’06. A “Lapis Blue” metallic finish is an $825 option; also available are wheel
caps with color crest ($185), Bi-Xenon headlamp
package ($1090), cocoa floor mats ($115), heated
front seats ($480) self-dimming mirrors ($385) and
a host of other goodies. Safety-wise, dual front
airbags and a Porsche Stability Management (PSM)
system, optimized for shorter stopping distances
and greater control in slippery conditions, are standard, as are anti-lock brakes and an integrated third
brake light in the rear.
Gripes are few. The trunk’s small, making
packing for long trips challenging unless you’re
going solo. Also, the CD player’s digital readout
moves at a glacier’s pace as you scroll forward or
backward to find your favorite songs. Overall,
though, this is a more-than-worthy sports car
that’ll put a smile on your face every time you rev
it.
Interior: An electric sliding roof, one-touch
power windows and a color PC display with nav
system capability plants the Carrera squarely
in the 21st century; flawless clutch/accelerator combo is all classic Porsche. It’s all upscale
leather and thus a feast for your eyes, nose and
posterior, though a tight fit for the big and tall.
Exterior: Smoothly merged egg-shaped flanks
and curvy yet hunky quarter panels are signature, flashy Porsche. Engine’s in the rear and the
trunk’s up front, opening with a push of the button on your fob. YVC
87
NORTHERN EUROPE
Spirit of
The Highlands
Captain Klaüs Muller
Cruising
the lochs
of Western
Scotland
88
Inverary Castle
The Locals
“My desire is always to be here” sang Sir Paul McCartney in his tribute to the Mull of
Kintyre, and the Western Highlands have inspired the same loyalty in many who have come
to know and love this secluded coast. The Scottish landscape is a theatre where the hills
themselves appear to move in the shifting light, one minute swathed in cloud, the next a
misty veil of sunlight, and later against a piercing blue sky the brilliant sunshine bouncing
off fresh snow on the hilltops.
O
ne of the first things to strike
you here is the lack of clutter; this is scenery empty of the
flotsam and jetsam of modern
civilization. Instead it’s full of
natural wonders, creating an
impressionist canvas that evolves with the seasons
as well as the weather. In autumn, robes of purple
heather drape the hillsides, crowned with golden
bracken and birch. Winter russets, ochres and
deep hookers greens are dusted with icing sugar
snow before the emerald grass of spring appears,
splashed with bright daffodils, wild primroses and
carpets of bluebells. Then in early summer darkness hardly falls, the distant glow of the midnight
sun lights the horizon and gleams on the white
sand beaches. In his book Ring of Bright Water
author Gavin Maxwell describes perfectly the
visitor’s dilemma on getting his first view across
the coast: “The landscape and seascape that lay
spread before me was of such beauty that I had no
room for it all at once...”
Places so beautiful rarely remain that way, but
the Western Highlands have escaped because they
are so difficult to reach. No roads existed before
the 18th century and the highlanders struggled
for survival on land of such poor agricultural
value. Their solution was to raid the lowland farms
before disappearing back into the hills, where
they remained out of reach of the law. Such inaccessibility rendered them beyond the grasp of the
British government, until the first roads were built
by the army in order to gain control. Before then,
the only successful conquerors were the Vikings,
who arrived by sea in their longships and were
able to penetrate deep into the hills by rowing up
the long fingers of the lochs.
Even today, this is a frustrating place to visit
in a vehicle because one is faced with long road
journeys to cover relatively small distances as the
crow flies; it’s still better conquered from the sea.
We were therefore thrilled to receive an invitation
from the owners of a rather characterful little ship
called Fyne Spirit, which promises travelers the
opportunity to do just that. On a bright and bracing spring day we were greeted at Glasgow airport
by Captain Klaüs Muller and Ship’s Purser Nadine
Ruts. Klaus and Nadine have been in charge of
Fyne Spirit’s conversion from a British Navy vessel
and are responsible for her forthcoming launch at
the start of the 2006 summer season.
Chosen because she is specifically suited to
cruising the Scottish lochs, Fyne Spirit’s sturdy build
and size (110ft) give her access into the far reaches
of the lochs and many deserted anchorages – and I
really do mean deserted, rather than shared with a
bunch of other hopefuls! Modifications have been
made to allow for a spacious saloon with large
windows to either side, enabling guests to enjoy
the majestic panoramas in all weather conditions.
And I’m quite serious when I say that Scotland
looks even more dramatic in the rain than it does
in the sunshine. A modern motor yacht would
be at odds in this environment – not only in
appearance but in sheer practicality. Fyne Spirit
is at home in her surroundings, dependable and
comfortable she embodies the traditional values
of the Scots. There’s no need to rush about here;
sit back and enjoy the ever-changing view, savor
the sense of isolation, absorb the atmosphere of
the Highlands.
Previously Captain of the well-known luxury
cruising yacht Star Clipper, Klaus has lived in
Scotland for over fifteen years. Although he is
German by origin, you’ll rarely meet a more naturalized Scot – he’s the first German I’ve ever heard
regularly use the word “Aye” (‘yes’ in Scottish
dialect). He even plays the bagpipes! Klaus has
made his own home in Fyne Spirit’s home port
of Inverary and is a well-known local ‘celebrity’,
having become an integral part of the local community. Wherever Klaus accompanied us, people
stopped to greet him and enquire about when
Fyne Spirit would be arriving from the shipyard
in Glasgow, where she is in the final stages of her
transformation. The result is that Fyne Spirit is
also a ‘local’, and thus inspires a special enthusiasm amongst the inhabitants that guests will
sense immediately. You can expect a hearty welcome which includes being piped aboard by the
local schoolchildren, who are accomplished pipers despite the fact that their instruments rather
dwarf them in scale.
Inverary is situated at the head of Loch Fyne
in the county of Argyll. An orderly gathering of
whitewashed Georgian houses, it sits a short but
respectful distance from the imposing seat of
the famous Campbell Clan, Inverary Castle. The
Campbells arrived in Argyll in the 13th century
and played a leading role in Scottish history.
Constantly feuding with the Macdonalds, they
supported the British army against the Jacobite
rebellion in the 18th century, a loyalty that was
rewarded with Dukedom. The 8th Duke married
Queen Victoria’s daughter, Princess Louise and, as
Master of the Royal Household, the present Duke
will always be seen at the Queen’s side when she
attends an official function in Scotland.
Klaus guided us around the castle personally,
as he has an expert knowledge of local history.
He was quick to point out that the vast range of
fearsome armory on display is not the cache of
an enthusiastic collector. It was in fact kept at the
castle in readiness for war, the weapons being
handed out for use by the Clansmen as and when
required for battle. Rows of vicious lances line the
walls of the atrium, many with their original tassels still attached just below the blade. Their gruesome, if practical, task was to staunch the blood
of the victims in order to prevent it running down
the wooden handle of the lance and making it too
slippery to hold - another reason there weren’t too
many visitors in the past! The flintlocks also on
display were used at the battle of Culloden, from
which the defeated Bonnie Prince Charlie fled in
1746, heralding final victory for the Hanoverian
Inverary
An orderly gathering of whitewashed Georgian
houses, it sits a short but respectful distance from the
imposing seat of the famous Campbell Clan, Inverary
Castle.
Fyne Spirit
At home in her surroundings, dependable and comfortable she embodies the traditional values of the Scots
WRITTEN AND PHOTGRAPHED BY
MICHELLE BLORE AND ALAN OLIVER
89
NORTHERN EUROPE
“ Taking a Yacht
Charter means
you can avoid
the usual necessity of long
hours on the
road, as well
as the constant
packing and
unpacking”
Whisky Store
Information
Fyne Spirit charters for up to 12 guests at
$35,000.00 per week, or you may book on a
per cabin basis from $2,800.00 per person, per
week. Contact: Dream Sailing, +33 664 037020
[email protected] www.dreamsailing.com
90
King George III over the Jacobites, and resulting in
the British monarchy of today.
Thankfully, a Scottish welcome now has a
different meaning. The history may have been
bloody and the weather unpredictable, but this
is more than made up for by the warmth of the
Scottish people. Indeed, many of the things that
make Scotland so enjoyable exist because of the
climate: a blazing hearth, hearty food and, of
course, Scotch whisky.
It is impossible to overestimate the importance of whisky to this part of the world, both
economically and culturally. There were once
as many as thirty-four whisky distilleries just in
Campbeltown on the Kintyre Peninsula alone, as
well as many more sprinkled around the coast
and islands such as Islay, Jura and Skye. The local
whisky store in Inverary stocks several hundred
single malts, making it a good place to start a voyage of discovery in more ways than one. One of the
oldest licensed distilleries in Scotland is at Oban,
where they’ve been making whisky for over 200
years. The ‘wash’ (a type of weak beer made from
malted barley) is distilled twice to give the malt its
unique character and taste, and the two unusually
small stills reflect the cramped nature of the site.
This working distillery is still based in its original
building in the heart of the town, just opposite
the quayside, making it easy to stow away a few
bottles as a souvenir.
Leaving Oban to head west around Mull and
then north between the islands of Iona and Tiree
you may well be rewarded with a sighting of minke
whales, and even killer whales put in an occasional appearance. Unlike many places that claim
whale watching as an activity, here there’s a very
strong chance you’ll actually see some (about an
80% likelihood). Be sure to take your binoculars
as seals, otters, porpoises and dolphins are also
regulars along the coast and the area is incredibly
rich in bird life, including razorbills, terns and wild
geese. For a more sporting diversion, there’s that
other great Scottish invention: golf. Fyne Spirit’s
special golf itineraries will allow guests to play on
a selection of the finest courses within easy reach
of ports and anchorages, such as the top ranking
Machrihanish course on the Kintyre Peninsula.
A friendly little ship like Fyne Spirit is definitely
the way to experience the Western Highlands of
Scotland. Life here clings to the coastline because
the sea has always represented the best, and
until relatively recently the only, means of access.
Castles were constructed on the loch shores near
to beaches in order to keep their boats handy,
distilleries needed to ship their products to market and villages depended upon the fishing for
their livelihood. Taking to the water means you
can avoid the usual necessity of long hours on the
road, as well as the constant packing and unpacking that are the bane of the intrepid sightseer.
Golfing equipment can be safely stowed out of the
way so you’ll soon forget the burden it normally
represents when traveling. And with no need to
drive anywhere, you can safely make the most
of all those whisky tastings with their generous
Scottish measures!
However, having the freedom to cruise the
lochs and amongst the islands is worth so much
more than mere practicalities. The hills and glens
are at their most spectacular when viewed from
the water; it’s a privileged perspective shared with
generations of local fishermen and sailors, but
rarely glimpsed by the steady procession of passing tourists. You’ll feel so much more a part of this
ancient and mystical land when you approach the
Mull of Kintyre as the Vikings did, with the mist
rolling in from the sea. YVC
About the Writers
Michelle Blore and Alan Oliver both quit successful
careers in London to move to the French Riviera. They
now run Dream Sailing (www.dreamsailing.com) a
charter brokerage specializing in luxury crewed yachts,
including their own sailing yacht, DreamCatcher of
London. [email protected]
LUXURY GOODS
2006 Harley-Davidson
VRSCR Street Rod
REVIEW BY JOSH MAX
The Harley Davidson Street Rod is a sturdy, righteous motorcycle aimed at bike lovers eye-
balling those submarine-sized cruisers in the window of their local Harley shop, but who don’t
feel like negotiating all that tonnage. It’s a cruiser to be sure, but smaller and sportier than
the usual hog, and you can corner, turn around, back up and dodge potholes as though riding
a Sportster. Also, unlike the teeth-chattering rides Harleys were previously known for, the
Street Rod provides a smooth-as-butter experience, with a snorting, guttural engine to match.
O
2006 Harley-Davidson VRSCR Specs
Price: ..................................................$15,495
Weight: ............................................. 618 lbs.
Displacement: .................................... 1130cc
Horsepower: ............................................120
Torque: ..................... 80 ft. lbs. @ 7000 rpm
Mileage: .........................47 highway, 37 city
Miles driven: ............................................140
Color options: .......Vivid black, black cherry,
rich sunglo blue, yellow pearl, brandy
wine sunglo, mirage orange
ur test took us through upstate New York,
through twisty forested roads and down
through urban areas after a solid day of
riding. Usually a bike does well either with city
riding or country cruising, but the Street Rod
handled both like a 618 pound ballerina, there
was no jerking when accelerating as in some older
Harley models, and the clutch is butter-smooth.
The futuristic, gleaming instrument cluster features a two-segment speed and RPM display, and
the vented grill design on the new Brembo brakes
follows through on the drive train cover and fuel
tank In short, she’s a beaut.
The Street Rod is the third model in Harley’s
VRSC family, which includes the popular V-Rod
introduced in 2001. The bikes are similar lookswise, though the Street Rod is notably taller than
the V-Rod and has better ground clearance, so
if you’re on the short side, get used to saddling
up with some effort. The good news is the taller
dimensions meant Harley had more room for a
bigger, 5-gallon gas tank, which means less frequent stops. The tank’s under the seat, which
conveniently flips up and locks back in snugly
without a key. A gauge saves you from trying to
remember the last time you visited the pump. (No
joke – some manufacturers don’t supply this.)
The engine roar is loud but not window-rattling; aftermarket accessories can be added if you
want to announce your arrival wherever you go.
As with every Harley, the Street Rod works both
as a machine and a work of art to be admired. It’s
all gleaming pipes, carved corners, and a blast to
drive. YVC
91
PACIFIC NORTHWEST
Live-aboard the dive boat
Nautilus Explorer
WRITTEN AND PHOTOGRAPHED BY
BILL HIRSCH & YVETTE CARDOZO
© PHOTOGRAPHER: DAN BANNISTER
Vancouver Island
The amazing thing was the fish. They were
everywhere... huge schools of China rockfish looked like something from the tropics.
And the submerged walls were coated with
life... plumose, sponges, barnacles, clumps
of feather duster worms.
92
B
ut we weren’t at Browning Pass. This was a
spire of rock on Vancouver Island’s northwest coast, a spot dived by only a handful of people before, a spot still loaded with fish
because it’s not exactly on anyone’s harvest path
and still loaded with life because, frankly, hordes
of divers haven’t scraped it off.
The goal was to go completely around
Vancouver Island on a live-aboard dive boat,
something done only once before the previous
fall by this same boat. Most dive boats stay on the
Inside Passage side, the east coast of this Floridasize island where the diving is relatively easier.
The important term here is ‘relatively.’ We are
talking cold water diving with all the drysuit gear
this requires, along with tricky currents, since
it’s the rush of water that brings nutrients which
support the world class life. There are divers who
consider Vancouver Island’s east coast challenge
enough.
But the west coast has its own rewards and a
few more challenges and this trip would give divers a chance for a direct comparison.
Leaving from Steveston, just south of
Vancouver, we crossed over to the island and scurried up the east side, stopping briefly for a dive at
Texada’s cloud sponges. They hung off the wall
in three-foot yellow clumps, each a ball of tubes,
each tube with its own critter a shrimp here, a crab
there. But best of all were the juvenile quillback
rockfish. All those little golden faces peering out
of the tubes.
That was at 100 feet. We came up to a ledge
at 40 feet and saw a rainbow nudibranch with
its crown of translucent waving tentacles. We felt
lucky to have spotted it and then saw a second, a
third, a fourth. They were all over the place, dozens upon dozens scattered among the pebbles.
And this was only our first dive.
From Texada, it was up to Browning Wall on
the northeast corner of the island. Browning is
the gold standard of northwest diving. On a dive
named Al’s Baby we found broccoli stalks of plumose hanging all over the place a forest of branching white, separated by groups of crimson and
green anemones, barnacles, 20-armed sun stars, a
huge king crab, a tiny Pacific octopus and so much
more life, there literally wasn’t a spot on the wall to
rest your finger.
We climbed from the water to a classic northwest scene. An eagle soared overhead in a cloudless sky and as we headed off, a school of Dall’s
porpoise sliced through the water around our
bow, leaving white streaks of foam in their wake.
Since a cold front was coming through, boat
owner/captain Mike Lever decided to stick around
a bit longer on the more protected side of the
island meaning more dives at Browning and,
especially, Dillon Rock with its half dozen friendly
wolf eels.
Finally, we eased around the north end of
the island and headed south. The northern tip
of Vancouver Island is as wild as it comes. With
its unbroken forests of cedar, its eagles, whales
and porpoise, it could pass easily for the coast of
Alaska.
And the fact that we were doing this in a liveaboard dive boat was somewhat of a milestone.
Diving in these part has come a long way from
the days, hardly 10 years ago, when a live-aboard
meant communal toilets and getting dressed on
an open, unprotected deck.
Divers here now have many of the amenities
folks have had for years in warm water destinations: terry robes, someone making up the cabin,
cups of hot chocolate and cinnamon buns handed
out as you arrive back from the dive, divemaster
guides if you wish.
Plus all sorts of clinics – photo workshops run
by top underwater photogs, fish ID courses run
by experts from the Vancouver Aquarium, trips
that also focus on non-dive activities (kayaking,
hiking, visits to Native villages). And, too, diving
now means more than just the expected favorites
– Copper Cliffs by Quadra, Browning Wall by Port
Hardy, Dillon Rock. Trips now take in the Queen
Charlotte Islands, Alaska and, of course, the circumnavigation of Vancouver Island.
What allows this is a boat big and fast enough
to cover the distance and house its divers in comfort. Mike’s latest boat, the Nautilus Explorer, is
116 feet with beds for 24 divers. The boat cruises
at 10 knots and, if pushed, can do nearly 13. On
our round-island trip, we covered 600 miles.
And, along the way, we got an intensive photo
course with Berkley White, who now believes digital is the only way to go.
So there I was with my very non-digital Nikonos.
Geez, my equipment was older than half the crew.
But Berkley has a point about digital. People with
pocket cameras and not a lot of photo experience were getting the kinds of shots a National
Geographic pro would have died for 10 years ago.
My roomate, Anita Floyd, a construction manager from Oregon, snagged a close up of a barnacle and its feeding appendages that was a pastel
work of art. My dive buddy, Elaine Field of Seattle,
got a small fish on a sponge that was flawlessly
posed and lit. There were perfect quillbacks in
cloud sponge tubes and even more perfect wolf
eels. Yes, digital tends to blow out highlights. But
the ability to correct mistakes on the spot and get
tack-on focus with ridiculously wide depths of
field is nothing short of amazing.
It was a good group. Northwest divers tend to
be that way. The jerks are quickly weeded out by
116ft Nautilus Explorer
conditions that require dedication to the sport.
Hey, of 21 divers aboard, only six of us (including
me) were on lowly air. Six were using rebreathers.
The rest were on nitrox or trimix. Most were divemasters and one guy runs his own charters.
Dedicated, definitely. We hit the village of
Tahsis (population 400) and a bunch went to
dive mud, hoping for six gill sharks. The rest of us
drained the town of its entire stock of margaritas,
to the last drop.
The next day, we dove the town dock, again
hoping for six gills. No sharks but the dock was a
party in itself. For decades, boats have dumped
their trash here. A white man’s midden, one guy
quipped. We found a rifle encrusted with sponge
life. Starfish climbed the pilings. And Elaine found
the tiniest octopus.
“Just his eyes peeking out of his hole. You could
tell he was curious but you could also almost hear
him think, ‘What is that creature looming over
me? Is it safe? Will it eat me?’”
The west coast is Vancouver Island’s wild
side. This is where North America’s storms come
ashore. One of the world’s largest recorded waves,
98 feet, happened here. What’s considered hurricane winds and scurry-for-cover in the Caribbean
is just normal winter weather here.
And, so, the diving is quite different.
“Storms scour the outsides of islands, so you
have to look for life in protected niches and on the
backsides of pinnacles,” Mike said. The life is not
as thick and it has to be hardier, sturdy anemones,
abalones and flat metridiums rather than delicate
sponges and broccoli stalk plumose.
You need to think about what you’re doing,
Mike said in his briefing. Current and surge can
combine for a rock and roll ride. The trick is to let
the surge push you, hold onto something while
it’s trying to suck you backwards, then let it push
you forward again. And when you come up, Mike
warned, stay away from the rocks. The surge can
easily carry you 30 feet up or down.
We were diving places that had been dived
only once or maybe not at all. On the northern
end of the island, it was all virgin.
More than just diving
Trips can also focus on non dive activities such as
kayaking, hiking, visits to native villages.
93
PACIFIC NORTHWEST
Underwater Photography
My roomate snagged a close up of a barnacle and its
feeding appendages that was a pastel work of art. My
dive buddy got a small fish on a sponge that was flawlessly posed and lit. There were perfect quillbacks in
cloud sponge tubes and even more perfect wolf eels.
94
We named a few. My contribution, “Bashing
Rocks,” was, sadly, voted down. Besides the killer
surge, it had great macro.
But the best of all was Hot Springs Cove
Pinnacle. “Probably the best example of what a
pinnacle dive should be,” Mike said.
It’s a 300 foot-wide-rock sitting in 100 feet
of water and is affected by both current and a
bit of surge, meaning it gets both the hardier
surge life and the hungrier soft invertebrate life.
Down at 50 feet the rock was completely covered
– metridiums, purple flowering tube worms, stars,
tunnicates, barnacles, sponges, stalks of plumose,
hundreds of fish.
Better yet, staghorn bryozoans, colonial animals that look like miniature tropical finger coral,
each about two feet across and holding an entire
universe of life. There were tiny brittle stars that
were smaller than a fingernail, near-microscopic
anemones, fish, shrimp and filter feeders along
with multicolored worms that wrapped themselves around the bryozoan fingers. The whole
thing writhed with life.
And then the crowning touch: three wolf eels
stacked one atop another. And hardly a yard away,
a huge octopus wedged into a long, deep crack.
Between dives, we visited an ancient Native
village with crumbling bits of overgrown, century-old totem poles. You go to a museum and
everything is nicely lit with signs. But here, it’s
bushwacking through brush to find half-buried
poles. Any log you step across might be a bit of
history. The birds are singing and it’s as if you’re
the first person to be here in decades.
Another day, we visited Friendly Cove. There
are dozens of similar coves along the coast but
somehow, every early explorer managed to land
here including Vancouver, Cook, and Spaniards
Galiano and Valdez. Today, what’s left is a lighthouse, a church with Native carvings, a memorial cairn to Cook and a Native couple with their
incredibly friendly (natch) cats.
Then on to Hot Springs Cove. The boardwalk is
1.5 miles of planks, many of them carved with the
name of a visiting ship. The path winds through
a glorious old growth forest crowded with giant
cedars, some ten feet across. At the end is a series
of rock basins filled with steaming thermal water.
We all squeezed into a small series of pools and
watched ocean waves crash on nearby rocks while
some chap with a guitar serenaded us with ‘70s
ballads.
Our last days, we rounded the southern end of
the island, first stopping to visit Bamfield where
we toured the Marine Sciences Centre, a research
and study facility; they have their own ROV for
deep water research and yes, it’s seriously cool.
Then we came into Victoria where we docked
at the foot of the Empress Hotel and dived the
breakwater. It started really ho hum, lots of rocks,
kelp, scallops, barnacles, jellies. Then these giant
kelp greenlings showed up. One bruiser had to
be three feet long and he just sat there, posing for
pictures. And, out of nowhere, a wolf eel nudged
Elaine.
This is a popular dive site and he obviously
expected a handout. He swam into Elaine’s arms,
sat for 10 minutes of pictures (yes, one of the other
divers kissed it) and finally settled into my arms
before slithering off.
Our last night, Berkley put together a show
of our photos. The quality was breathtaking, the
eye of a Red Irish Lord, so close, you could see
the red flecks across his pupil, a moon jelly with
kelp against a glowing sun, nudibranchs of every
description and color. Each image was magazine
quality, a perfect record of the changing underwater life that rings Vancouver Island. YVC
About the Writer and Photographer
This husband & wife writing/photography team specialize
in adventure travel. Yvette Cardozo worked eight years
for major metropolitan newspapers; has done freelance
travel and outdoors articles and photography since 1974.
Bill Hirsch worked at a variety of research and writing
jobs in government and private industry and has been
doing freelance articles since 1982.
[email protected]
Information
More about Nautilus Explorer can be found by
contacting Blue Water Yacht Charters, Inc.,
+1 360 379 6581 or 800-732-7245
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1-954-524-9366
37
Paradise Yacht Charters
http://www.paradiseyachtcharters.com 954-462-0091
49
Peter Insull
www.insull.com
(+33) 493342242
2,3
Sea Dream Yacht Club
www.SeaDreamCharter.com
800-707-4911
61
South Seas & Tuttomare
www.southseas.it
39081 245.2402
65
Stabbert Maritime
www.stabbertmaritime.com
206-547-6161 x116
55
The Club at Emerald Bay
www.theclubatemeraldbay.com
954-563-1022
17
The Sacks Group
www.sacksyachts.com
954-764-7742
5
Trimarine Boat
www.bvisailing.com
800-648-3393
65
TSH Aero One, Inc.
www.smartaircharter.com
242-677-8702
69
Valef Yachts Ltd.
www.valefyachts.com
215-641-1624
45
Voyage Charters
www.voyagecharters.com
1-888-869-2436
19
YCO
www.ycpyacht.com
37793501212
53
Yachting Partners International
www.ypi.co.uk
1-800-626-0019
25,35
Yatchin Greece
www.yachtingreece.gr
(+33) 210 323 3057
98-99
THIS INDEX IS PROVIDED AS AN ADDITIONAL SERVICE TO OUR READERS.
THE PUBLISHER DOES NOT ASSUME ANY LIABILITY FOR ERRORS AND OMMISSIONS.
Page
— FLORIDA/BAHAMAS
Advertiser
— ALASKA
— GALAPAGOS ISLANDS
will leave you with unforgettable
memories – let Angela Connery
Yacht Charters help you with
the details of your plans.
Call Toll Free
877.741.4448
© COPYRIGHT 2004 ANGELA CONNERY YACHT CHARTERS, INC.
INTERNATIONAL YACHT VACATIONS & CHARTERS MAGAZINE
www.acyachtcharters.com
69
Charter Your
Private Yacht
You’ll love our spacious teak deck.
It’s where shipmates gather to
lounge , socialize and party. It’s
just one reason why our groups
return to cruise the Caribbean
aboard a tall ship.
Hiking • Diving • Kayaking
Snorkeling • Complimentary
Rum Swizzles • All Meals
and Snacks.
6 Day Full ship charters.
Call our Groups and
Charters Department
1-800-327-2601 www.windjammer.com
P.O. Box 190120, Dept 6206, Miami Beach FL 33119-0120
95
Gadget On!
Gadgets to
bring out the
hardcore
gamer in you
Dell XPS 600 Renegade Desktop and 3007WFP 30-inch LCD
The detailing on the hood of your Ford Mustang might be cool but the custom paint job on the new Dell XPs 600
Renegade will blow you away. It is the first Quad-SLI computer on the market personally signed by Mike Lavellee of
Killer Paint and Michael Dell. The system features the brand new Intel Pentium 955 Extreme Edition processor that has
been overclocked from 3.46GHz to 4.26GHz, 2GB DDR2 memory at 667MHz, and two dual 1GB GeForce 7800 video
cards. Play 3D games at full detail settings at unbelievable resolutions of 2,560 x 1,600 on the new Dell 3007WFP 30-inch
LCD. The heart pounding images on the LCD screen will make you cringe, scream and sweat as you fight the epic battle
between good and evil.
Renegade pricing to announced in Spring, 30-inch LCD priced at $2,199 available at www.dell.com
96
Dell XPS m170 Gaming Notebook
This notebook is Dell’s homage to the ultimate high octane gaming experience. The machine can be custom
configured with Intel’s top-of-the line 2.26GHz Pentium M 780 processor, 1GB of fast PC 4200
DDR RAM, and a large 100GB hard drive. The laptop’s 3D graphics are enhanced
by Nvidia’s GeForce Go 7800 GTX 256 chip, which boasts its own
256MB of discrete memory, and 17 inch Wide-UXGA
True Life display which supports up to
1920 x 1200 pixels. With its silver
gunmetal exterior and black
accents, the beast is waiting
to be unleashed.
Prices start around
$2,199,available at
www.dell.com
Saitek Flight Control System X52
and Racing Wheel R440
If you like breaking the major rules of engagement at Top
Gun, then Saitek’s X52 Flightstick and Throttle combination will give you all the precision and control you need
to take on the best of the best. It offers the best in precision engineering and ergonomic design for a true simulated flight experience. Your dogfighting days are not over
- yet. The need for speed on a race track requires control
and timing. Saitek’s racing wheel will help you negotiate
sharp turns as you floor the gas pedal to maintain your
lead in the NASCAR Racing game.The 4 wheel-mounted
thumb buttons and non-slip rubber grips are designed for
hours of fatigue free gaming.
Priced at $129 and $80 respectively,
available at www.saitek.com
Plantronics Game Pro P1 Headsets
School your opponents on how to play like a pro
online with Plantronics Game Pro P1 digital stereo
headsets. The headsets offer digitally-enhanced stereo
Klipsch ProMedia Ultra 5.1 Speaker System
sound with awesome bass for a heightened gaming
Are you ready to rumble? Klipsch Promedia Ultra 5.1 delivers sonic proficiency whether you are taking on explosive
experience. With inline volume controls and a noise-
battles in the Battle Front 2 PC game or watching the latest Bond 007 movie on DVD. Four 2-way satellites, one 2-way
canceling microphone, the GameCom Pro 1 is ideal for
center channel and a dual-driver 8” subwoofer together produce an amazing 500 watts of total amplified power. Rock
live online multi-player games. Use the force, Luke.
the house - literally!
Priced at $90 and available at www.amazon.com
Priced at $399 and available at www.klipsch.com
97
Luxury Yacht Charters in Greece and East Mediterranean Sea
��
COPYRIGHT© YACHTING GREECE LTD.
Be our guests!
��
Yachting Greece Ltd.
12 Lekka Street, Athens 10562 Greece
Tel (+30) 210 3233057 Fax (+30) 210 3257553
24 Hour Phone (+30) 697 692 6649
[email protected]
www.yachtingreece.gr

YVC 3-1.indd - SYS

Transcription

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