issue 06
Transcription
issue 06
ISSUE 06 ORGANISED BY: SUMMARY ISSUE 06 03 EDITORIAL AN ENTIRE UNIVERSE OF FASHION 04 TRADE FAIRS FASHION TRADE FAIRS: A VERITABLE MUST Visiting the leading trade fairs and exhibiting at these events has become a veritable must for brands and retailers, due to the different advantages that they are able to offer members of the industry. 07 TRADE FAIRS WELCOME TO MOMAD METROPOLIS The final preparations are being made for the staging of the first MOMAD METROPOLIS, which will open its doors at Ifema next 6th September. 10 INTERVIEW BORJA ORIA The President of Acotex, the leading Spanish trade association for the fashion sector, offers his views regarding the present situation within the industry and the challenges faced by the multi-brand trade. 2 EDITORIAL AN ENTIRE UNIVERSE OF FASHION Welcome to the sixth issue of MOMAD MAGAZINE. Due to its proximity to the first staging of MOMAD METROPOLIS, we have decided to focus this issue on the world of trade fairs, whilst providing an extensive preview of how MOMAD METROPOLIS is likely to shape up at its first event. Thus, over the next few pages we shall outline some of the main reasons why exhibiting companies and retailers take part at fashion trade shows, effectively reflecting the vital importance of trade events in their capacity as indispensable marketing tools for the business sector. We shall also review some of the latest new developments at MOMAD METROPOLIS, which will open its doors next 6th September as the only multi-sector event in Spain aimed at the fashion trade and the most important show of its kind on the Iberian Peninsula. The striking and innovative decoration of Halls 4, 12 and 14 (as shown in the photos) reflects the fact that this new event represents much more than the simple integration of SIMM and MODACALZADO+IBERPIEL: the new MOMAD METROPOLIS is a visible example of the new approach that has been adopted by Ifema's fashion events, based on a more up-to-date and modern appeal and inspired by the latest trends on the international trade fair circuit. The decision that has been taken by the international Bestseller Group, which owns labels as prestigious as Jack&Jones and Vero Moda and which habitually attends the most important international trade shows, to take part at MOMAD METROPOLIS with a space measuring some 600 square metres, provides ample proof of the fact that the event's new approach is a success. We cannot overlook the opinion of visitors either in this special issue devoted to trade fairs. In this sense, we have interviewed one of the most renowned figures within the industry in Spain: Borja Oria, President of the Business Association for the Textile and Accessories Trade (ACOTEX), will offer us his views regarding the new trade show and the current state of the fashion industry. We look forward to greeting you at MOMAD METROPOLIS!!! MOMAD MAGAZINE CONTACT: [email protected] PUBLISHED BY: Ripley Gestora de Contenidos // CIF: B 62014204 // Pelayo, 12, 1º 1ª, 08001 – BCN DESIGN AND LAYOUT: Talking Design Studio // Amigó 47, entlo. 3a, 08021- Barcelona Further information: www.ifema.es 3 TRADE FAIRS FASHION TRADE FAIRS: A VERITABLE MUST WHY VISIT OR EXHIBIT AT SPECIALISED TRADE FAIRS? Much has been said and will continue to be said about the role that trade fairs play within the world of business. During their staging they provide a focal-point for intensive trade activity, which provides a boost for the economic development of brands and retailers who wish to keep up with the latest trends and offer their customers added value. The expectations regarding these events vary, depending on whether we are dealing with exhibitors or visitors, being as diverse as the range of people who attend them. In this respect, it is easy to find professionals who make use of trade fairs in order to hold their meetings, discover new brands, 4 link up with representatives of brands based in different geographical locations, gain an overview of the market and the latest trends and even learn first-hand how to sell their products from the lips of leading experts. At the same time, other brands decide to attend trade shows in order to surprise their customers with their new collections, attract new customers and arouse media interest in their products ..., etc. In short, we come across diverse views and expectations, all of which confirm the role that trade fairs play as an effective and currently indispensable marketing tool for companies. Brands and Retailers In the case of brands, taking part at a trade show constitutes a unique opportunity to form part of a grand event. This ensures maximum visibility and a wide-ranging audience, aspects that also apply in relation to the general 5 and specialised media covering the event. In effect, brands are able to generate a degree of awareness that is difficult to achieve with a single showroom. Trade shows thus serve as a highly effective showcase for members of the trade, promoting and boosting the visibility of participating companies and brands twice a year, as well as facilitating promotion through the media. In addition, the very structure of the event, in which brands share the limelight with other similar brands according to concept, range or moment of use, effectively maximises these opportunities and facilitates the visit of target groups that are interested in the segment in question. Fashion trade shows also offer brands other key advantages, such as the opportunity to establish effective contacts, organise appointments, carry out pre-selection and ordering processes with customers, attract new customers and take part in a schedule of meetings with foreign and domestic buyers of considerable interest. To all this we must add the facilities and services offered by fairgrounds and the information that professionals are furnished with before they attend the event itself, which enables them to organise their visit in advance in order to suit their interests. Finally, the activities that are organised to coincide with the exhibition constitute an asset of considerable importance to both brands and retailers taking part at fashion trade shows. Different activities, courses and forums, not to mention relaxation areas and catering facilities, provide the best setting for doing business and discovering the opinions of leading experts from the industry at first hand. Participants can also form part of debates on problems and opportunities relating to the multi-brand sector, discover the latest trends in e-commerce and new technologies and extend their network of high-quality contacts within the industry. 6 TRADE FAIRS WELCOME TO MOMAD METROPOLIS EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT THE NEW MULTI-SECTOR FASHION TRADE FAIR, THE MOST IMPORTANT EVENT OF ITS KIND ON THE IBERIAN PENINSULA The final preparations are being made for the imminent inauguration of the largest fashion trade show in Spain and the leading multi-sector fashion event on the Iberian Peninsula. MOMAD METROPOLIS, the new fashion trade fair organised by IFEMA, is based on the fusion of the Madrid International Fashion Fair (SIMM) and MODACALZADO+IBERPIEL. Between 6th and 8th September all fashion profes- sionals have a date with MOMAD METROPOLIS, an event based on a renewed and up-to-date trade fair format that has attracted the participation of more than 1,100 brands. When they arrive at the Feria de Madrid fairground, visitors and exhibitors will be met by the striking exterior decoration of Halls 4, 12 and 14, created by a series of renowned urban artists. This will 7 Three wide-ranging sections, METRO, COSMO and READY, will bring together the products and services of more than 1,100 exhibiting brands at the trade show, based on their positioning within the market and their moment of use, all within an exhibition area measuring some 16,000 square metres immediately alert visitors to the fact that they are attending a new type of trade fair, one based on the latest market trends. Inside the halls themselves, the exhibition will be structured around market segment, style and moment of use, based on three wide-ranging sections (METRO, COSMO and READY), effectively making up an exhibition area that measures 16,000 square metres. This exhibition will encompass clothing companies, footwear companies and suppliers of children's fashion and accessories, making up a fashion event that is quite unprecedented in Spain. In the METRO section, located in Hall 12, visitors to MOMAD METROPOLIS will be able to discover the wide-ranging representation of progressive urban fashion companies, whilst COSMO in Hall 14 and part of Hall 12 will focus on contemporary fashion labels. In turn, READY will be located in Hall 4, featuring a wide-ranging exhibition of ready-to-wear fashion and the most youthful urban fashion ideas. For their part, the IFEMA Showrooms will be located at a new venue, Hall 14.1, which habitually hosts the staging of the fashion shows at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid. Spaces and Brands Amongst the fashion labels, the exhibition will showcase the collections of brands such as Velatti, Almatrichi, Bestseller, Play Star 42, Strena, Cambio, Max Volmary, Leidiró-Mac, Frieda&Freddies, Margittes, Rosemunde, Mamatayoe, Eliza Cavaletti, Angels Never Die, No Secrets World, Malvin, Beaumont, Leo Guy, Luckylu, Cristina Sanchez, Escolá, Best Mountain, Berlin 1927, Charo Ruiz Ibiza, Ada Gatti, Sidecar, Guillen Y Bayona, Hector Cubas, El Armario De Lulu, Cheyenne, Goes, Yogo, Jac Dismoda, Lauren Vidal, Juan Carlos Armas, Deby Debo, Laga, Brigitte Bardot, Lentejita, Maria Coca, Lollipops, Steilmann, Noa, Signal, Mex, Plural, Pe De Chumbo, Rene Derhy, Pause Café, Smash!, Tartaruga, Veneno En La Piel, Vilagallo and Viriato. Some of the most outstanding names amongst the footwear fashion labels include Pons Quintana, 8 Robert Clergerie, Studio Mihara, Plummers, Lola Cruz, Menbur, Hispanitas, Nero Giardini, Albión 1879 (Ted Baker, Jessica Simpson, Vince Camuto, Frank Wright), Desigual, Kangaroos, Sendra Boots, Vidorreta, Exé, Buffalo, grupo Mtng (Mustang, María Mare, Sixtyseven, Cheiw, Estefanía Marco), XTi, Chka10, Raider-Ipanema, Dupé, Gioseppo, Victoria and Coolway. The children's fashion segment will encompass labels such as Xti Kids, Mayoral, Disney, Rachel and Cheiw, whilst companies such as Puntotres, Drap Difussion, Camomila Milano, Volum, Abbachino, Robert Pietri and Anna & Robert Textil will present their collections under the headings of handbags and accessories. Momad Retail Forum As has traditionally been the case at SIMM and MODACALZADO+IBERPIEL, MOMAD METROPOLIS will complement its exhibition space with a packed Activities Programme aimed at trade visitors and exhibitors. Exhibitions, tasting sessions and competitions (such as the Best Stand Contest at the trade fair) will be staged alongside the Momad Retail Forum, which will take up from where Speaker's Corner at SIMM and MODACALZADO+IBERPIEL left off. This initiative is destined to become the best forum in Spain for retail know-how, one that is freely available to all visitors who attend the trade show. Hilario Alfaro, the President of the Specialised Trade Confederation of the Madrid Region (Cocem), will open the Forum on Friday 6th September with a paper entitled "Reflections on the Future of Retailing". Isabel Mesa, the Managing Director of WGSN in Spain, will take up the baton in the afternoon with an analysis of the latest trends for Spring/Summer 2014 for buyers under the heading of "Season Essentials". On Saturday, the Momad Retail Forum will continue with a Shopprising Workshop entitled "How to Use Technology and Customer Experiences to Make Contact with Your Market Segments", presented by Carlos Sánchez and José Cantero Gómez (M2M Factoría de Innovación), and a Roundtable featuring the participation of Borja Oria (Acotex), Hugo Mira (El Armario de Lulu) and Francesco Malatesta (Director of Ifema Fashion Events). On the evening of Saturday 7th September, Jaume Rosell (Baobaz España) will deliver the conference entitled "Electronic Commerce As a Tool for Boosting Growth and Internationalisation at Companies". On the morning of Sunday 8th, the Forum will host the staging of a Conference on "Communication Via the Social Media Applied to the Field of Fashion", followed by the presentation of the book entitled "History of Fashion" ("Historia de la Moda") by Josefina Figueras. 9 BORJA ORIA PRESIDENT OF ACOTEX Borja Oria is the President of the Business Association for the Textile and Accessories Trade (ACOTEX) and an expert on the fashion industry. In this interview he offers us his views on the future of the multi-brand trade and the key role played by fashion trade shows, as well as analysing the Government's recent decisions regarding fiscal and financial matters. 10 DEMAND FOR FASHION HAS BEEN DECLINING FOR SOME YEARS NOW. HAS IT NOW HIT ROCK BOTTOM? We do not know for sure whether demand has really hit rock bottom, but what we do believe at Acotex is that, if this is not the case, then it is certainly very close to doing so. In this sense, we are beginning to see the light at the end of the tunnel. The upturn may occur during the Autumn/Winter 2014 campaign or throughout the following season, but at least we will not be witnessing any more sharp declines. The industry has already made the adjustments it needed to make and, in this respect, we believe the situation is going to begin to stabilise in terms of both shop closures and loss of employment. One suggestive figure that supports this view is as follows: since the beginning of the crisis some 13,000 businesses have closed, but in 2012 the number came to only 230. THE MULTI-BRAND TRADE HAS GRADUALLY LOST MARKET SHARE. HAS IT NOW ACHIEVED ITS OPTIMUM SHARE, WHEN COMPARED WITH OTHER COUNTRIES? In any market, even one as highly developed as that of the United States, there is always space for the multi-brand trade and for small businesses, which contrast with the globalised single-label chains and offer a more intimate and local approach. At present, this trade accounts for around 20% of the market in Spain. However, we do not know exactly what market share the multi-brand trade is going to have when it stabilises. WHAT SHOULD THE CHANNEL DO IN ORDER TO SURVIVE? I see three key factors. First of all, customer attention must really constitute a value that sets this channel apart from the single-brand channel, which is moving towards the realm of self-service. Second, the channel must invest and bring in new technologies in order to establish a better communication with customers and improve sales techniques and strategies. And third, the multibrand channel must cash in on the advantage it has in terms of being able to change the brands it represents, always offering customers the latest and most fashionable labels and ideas. IN SPITE OF THE CRISIS, THERE ARE SOME STRIKING MULTI-BRAND SUCCESS STORIES IN SPAIN. WHAT EXAMPLES PROVIDE US WITH A MODEL THAT WE MIGHT FOLLOW? It is very difficult to name just one and even more so coming from a trade sector association that represents all members of the sector. However, we can come across international examples, such as Colette and 10 Corso Como, which address a medium-high or high category target, although other neighbourhood and day-to-day multi-brand outlets also spring to mind. WHAT ROLE DO FASHION TRADE SHOWS PLAY WITHIN THE SECTOR? A very important one. For owners of multi-brand establishments, having to search for new brands and new ideas entails a considerable effort. And this is precisely where trade fairs come into their own, bringing together all of the fashion options and ideas together over a period of two or three days, thus enabling shop-owners to discover hundreds of brands. HOW DO YOU RATE THE NEW EVENT, MOMAD METROPOLIS, AND THE FUSION OF SIMM AND MODACALZADO? We consider the new trade show to be a brave initiative and we wish it all the success in the world. We have participated in the development of this new event, given that we form part of the trade fair's Organising Committee. We believe this new approach was a necessary measure, given that the fashion world has become increasingly global and comprehensive, something we have been pointing out for years now. Shops that do not sell clothing, footwear and accessories all together have now become an anomaly. In this respect, we believe the decision to unite the exhibitions at SIMM and MODACALZADO+Iberpiel is the right one. In fact, the event should continue to incorporate other sectors, such as accessories and fashion jewellery, at future editions. 11 HOW IMPORTANT IS TOURISM TO THE FASHION TRADE IN SPAIN? The impact of tourism on the fashion trade is very high. Tourism is becoming increasingly important, given that Spain is lucky enough to attract almost 60 million foreign tourists a year. In the case of luxury brands, more than half of all sales correspond to non-Spanish customers. We must continue promoting this trend and must work alongside ministries, regional government and local councils to boost shopping-based tourism and ensure that the shopping opportunities throughout the country are as attractive as the cultural, culinary and leisure opportunities. SPAIN CONTINUES TO ATTRACT INTERNATIONAL BRANDS. WHY DOES SPAIN PROVIDE SUCH AS INTERESTING MARKET IN THIS RESPECT? In Spain there is an obviously strong interest in fashion, one that is promoted and encouraged by the large Spanish retailers, who are world leaders in their own right. Spaniards have always shown a considerable interest in keeping up with the latest fashions and, in this sense, we constitute one of the most important markets in Europe. This generates demand and the big international brands are well aware of this fact. If to this we add the fact that today there are some excellent opportunities available in terms of shop locations and prices, we might say that now is an especially interesting time for foreign brands to secure a strong positioning in Spain. HAVE RECENT TAX INCREASES, SUCH AS THE RISE IN VAT, EFFECTIVELY FINISHED OFF THE INDUSTRY? We were extremely critical and continue to be so - of the increase in VAT. At the time, the Minister for Taxation and Public Administration, Cristóbal Montoro, stated that the rise would be temporary. In this sense, we hope that this temporary measure will soon come to an end and that we will return to a VAT rate of 16% or 18%. This tax increase has had a tremendously negative effect on the fashion industry. It has not only affected prices (although in our industry the increase has been absorbed by companies or traders, who have reduced their profit margins), but has also had an effect on consumers' disposable income. In this sense, we believe this measure is mistaken. Proof of this is provided by the fact that, since the increase was introduced in September 2012, we have witnessed various months of ongoing decreases regarding our sales figures. FINANCING RESTRICTIONS HAVE HAD A DAMAGING EFFECT ON THE MULTIBRAND CHANNEL. ARE THESE BUSINESS CREDIT RESTRICTIONS BEGINNING TO BE LOOSENED? You could say that we are still going through a "transitional" period. We are beginning to see a greater de- gree of accessibility to credit, but the effects have yet to be observed. We are also beginning to see new forms of financing on the market, such as the alternative fixed income market. WHAT IS YOUR VIEW OF THE LIBERALISATION OF SPECIAL SALES CAMPAIGNS? It is still difficult to see what the real impact will be, given that the season has not concluded yet. However, one initial consequence of the liberalisation is that the previously profound impact of the sales season has been effectively diluted, given that businesses have announced their sales at different times. WHAT MEASURES WOULD YOU CALL ON THE GOVERNMENT TO INTRODUCE? A return to 16% VAT and ongoing support in terms of boosting shopping-based tourism. AND WHAT WOULD YOU ENCOURAGE BUSINESSMEN TO DO? Rather than calling on businessmen to do anything, I would like to praise the efforts they have made in recent years to stay afloat in spite of the adverse climate, and I would encourage them to hold on a little longer, because we are now beginning to see the light. The businesses that have survived this long will be perfectly prepared for when the situation changes. 12 ORGANISED BY: