ATV Plans - The Free Information Society

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ATV Plans
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It is beyond the scope of these plans to teach some of you basic pipe fitting.
However, if you decide to build the rounded fender bracing I can give you
some tips.
Cut a 50” piece of ¾” EMT. On each end bend a 90 degree bend. Lay this
piece (which is way too long) across the four front fender braces that you
just tacked up and match up one of the bends to one of the outside braces.
The 2 outside braces will have to be sawed off whatever the distance is that
the bend reaches rearwards. Mark and cut each outside brace.
Measure the outside to outside distance of the cut off braces.
Remove whatever material is necessary to make the randomly bent piece
with the 2-90 degree bends fit this distance.
After cutting this piece to the correct length I normally lay it on the shop
floor to tack it up since this assures me that the bends are properly indexed.
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Position this piece onto the front fender braces, saddle the 2 inner braces to
fit, and weld.
We are up to the grill guard. It connects the front fender braces to the lower
frame half.
Grill Guard
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Grill Guard
Cut 2 pieces of ¾” EMT 20“ long. Bend one end 90 degrees. Cut off the
excess bend and leave only enough to actually make 90 degrees as shown in
photo above. Saddle the upper ends to fit the front fender bracing, hold into
position on 18’ centers at the top and cut to fit into the open ends of the
lower frame rails as shown above.
Cut 2 pieces of ¾” EMT 17“ long. Saddle both ends and insert into the grill
guard as pictured or to your tastes.
Weld out. We have welded out some light mounting brackets to our grill
guard. They are simply pieces of 1” x .125” flat material cut to fit our WalMart lights.
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After you have your fender support structure in place you can start
“skinning” the ATV.
I have skinned using 26ga sheetmetal, .032 aluminum, and .125” thick ABS
plastic.
All work well. Use what you have available and are comfortable working
with.
I use .125” x .375” long steel pop rivets to secure the skin to the fender
substructure.
I cut the long strips of skin first as seen in the photos. Skin the outside
sections of the fenders first, then skin the openings between the fenders last.
Skinning takes me about 4 hours. Then I am ready to sand and paint the
entire ATV if it requires painting. If you use ABS plastic it requires no paint.
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Mounting Your Engine
Whatever engine you decide to use will determine precisely how you mount
it. Cut mounting slots (.250”) into the engine plate that will fit your engines
mounting holes. Make the slots at least 1.25” long to insure that you can
tighten your chain properly.
Bolt your engine to the engine plate. The ATV requires a torque converter to
perform as designed. Install the torque converter per the instructions from
the manufacturer. Proper installation of the converter is MANDATORY.
Improper installation will result in bad performance (belt slippage) and short
belt life.
After the engine/converter is loosely bolted to the engine plate and at the
rearmost position of travel you are ready to install your chain.
At this point your axle assembly should already be bolted into place.
Here are a few refresher shots to help you remember how the axle should
look at various stages.
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below is another variation
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This is the ATV plans 4-wheeled ATV. This booklet will show
you how to build it.
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Table of Contents
Introduction
Material List
Recommended Engines and torque converter
Where To Buy Listing
Required Tool List
Main Frame - Lower Half
Main Frame – Upper Half
Front Axle
Front Spindles
Tie Rod and Drag Link
Handlebars
Engine Mounting
Throttle Control
Rear Axle
Brake System
Brake Control
Seat Mount
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Introduction
Please read this booklet completely before ordering materials or
beginning construction of this ATV.
When constructed properly this ATV will do almost anything that a
“bought” 2wd ATV will do for about 25% of the cost.
This booklet will enable the homebuilder, either advanced or novice, to build
an “honest to goodness” 4-wheeled ATV. Please do not be tempted to add an
additional brace “here and there”. Doing so will add many more pounds of
weight to the ATV making it heavier and reducing it’s performance. The
reason so many ATVs are now 4-wheel drive is because they are so heavy
that they get stuck easily. Light weight ATVs are very difficult to stick and
do not require 4wd to go in most conditions.
The frame of this ATV is constructed entirely of mild steel tubing and is of
welded construction. You may weld the frame using any method you are
comfortable with. You may substitute different gauges and slightly
different sizes of metal if you need to. You may even have enough metal
laying around your shop to build this ATV. Remember, you are building
an ATV, not an aircraft. Kick back, relax and enjoy the process ☺
Required Materials, Engine, Etc.
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Below is a complete list of materials / etc. that are required to build this
ATV.
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60’ of 1” round tubing .062” wall (emt works fine also)
8’ of .750 x .125 flat steel (bracing for skin to pop to)
30’ of 1x1 14 or 16ga. square tubing
30’ of .750 x .750 x 14 or 16ga. square tubing
8’ of .875 O.D. pipe (handlebars, steering rod)
2’ of 1.500 x 1.500 x 14 or 16ga. square tubing (frt axle)
2’ of 1x.375 flat steel (can go heavier but not lighter)(steering arms)
6’ of .500” O.D. round tubing (tie rod body)
4x8 sheet of .125” abs plastic OR
4x8 sheet of 26 ga. Steel (skin body)
4 wheels and tires with a 4 on 4 bolt pattern
materials to make a seat OR
good used motorcycle/ ATV seat
twist grip throttle control (must fit 7/8” handlebars)
clamp-on brake lever (must fit 7/8” handlebars)
assorted .250 and .312 bolts, nuts, and lock washers ,std grade
two .750x5 gr. 8 bolts and lock nuts (spindles)
two .500x4 gr. 8 bolts and lock nuts (king pins)
four .312 female tie rod ends (for tie rods)
5 hp or larger horizontal shaft engine (3/4” or 1” shaft)
Torque Converter for your specific engine (must match your shaft)
Complete rear axle assembly with brake and rear hubs
Brake and throttle control cables and housings
2-Front hubs with sealed bearings
We sell most everything needed to build this ATV. Whatever you don’t
have already, just contact us and we most likely have it or you can most
likely buy it at one of your local tractor supply stores.
The steel used during the construction of your ATV is mild steel. It is
available from almost any “metals dealers”. If you live in a very small town
you may have to go to a larger town to get your metal. It all depends upon
where you live. However, you may already have the very materials you need
laying around your shop.
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The minimum engine required for this ATV is 5 horsepower. You can use
almost any horizontal shaft engine from 5 hp to 13 hp. Just be sure when you
choose your engine that you can get a torque converter to fit the output shaft.
You can get converters to fit ¾” and 7/8th inch shafts with no problem at all.
You may even have a perfect engine just sitting there unused on a go kart,
mini bike, log splitter, snow blower, garden tractor or tiller. Just look around
your place and see.
Note: we recommend #40 chain for use with 5.5 and 6.5hp engines.
10 feet of #40 chain is $20.00.
The complete set of four painted 8x7 wheels and tires are $290.00
shipping included inside the lower 48 states. Polished aluminum
wheels are $100.00 extra.
The complete rear axle parts package including sprocket for #40
chain, drum brake assembly, axle bearings and flanges, weldments
to frame, all keys and allen set screws, lock nuts for axle, lug nuts
and rear hubs is $300.00.
The throttle control with housing and cable and cable stops is $16.00.
The brake lever with cable, housing , midway and cable stop is
$10.35.
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Tie rod end package (4 tie rods) is $12.00
Spindle brackets are $4.20 for the pair
Front hubs (with lug nuts) are $73.00 for the pair
The seat that we sell is $39.50
If you wish to order any of the parts shown in the preceding pages,
decide what you want and contact us at [email protected]
for shipping costs. Send a complete listing of the parts you are
ordering.
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Required Tools
The tools listed below or their equivalents are required to build the ATV.
Speed square- necessary for laying out angles
Soapstone
Measuring tape
Tri-square
C-clamps (3 inch)
4-inch side grinder
“Sawz-all” type reciprocating saw or “cut off” saw or both
Drill motor and bit selection
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Hammer
Center punch
Conduit bender (1 inch)
Any type of welding system that will penetrate 14 gauge material
Jack stands or saw horses
Hydraulic tubing bender-don’t buy one, borrow one. You’ll only use it once.
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Main Frame-Lower Half
Cut 2 pieces of 1x1 square tubing 60 inches long, square cut both ends.
This will be the horizontal mainframe members.
Cut 6 pieces of 1x1 square tubing 16” long, square cut both ends. These will
be the cross members for the horizontal mainframe members as well as the
uprights connecting the rear of the main frame to the upper half of the frame.
Cut 1 piece of 1x1 square tubing 18” long. This piece will tie the uprights
tighter.
Lay out the 2-60” pieces on your workbench or whatever you are working
with. Outside to outside measurement should be 18”. Cross square them.
Working at each end, tack up the front and rear crossmembers.
Designate one end of the frame as the rear. Hook your tape onto the rear
crossmember and measure forward and place marks at 20” and 33.5”
respectively. These marks are the CENTER of the other 3-16” engine plate
crossmembers. Weld the last engine plate crossmember in the direct center
of where the engine plate will be. This stops any flex when using a large
engine. Be sure to square the crossmembers.
You engine mounting plate will weld to the engine plate crossmembers.
Cut a piece of .125” thick steel plate 6” x 14”. This is the engine mounting
plate. Center the engine mounting plate (side to side) on the engine mount
crossmembers and weld it out.
The engine mounting plate will need engine mounting slots cut into it. These
slots will need to fit the bolt pattern of your particular engine. Center the
engine onto the plate in all directions and mark though the holes in the
engine onto the plate. Create slots using your marks as the center of the
slots. The slots need to be 1.25” long to give you plenty of adjustment when
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you tension your drive chain.
I use a milling machine to make my slots but a torch will do just fine.
Hook your tape once more to the rear crossmember and measure forward 8”.
Place a mark there. Do this on each side. These marks are the center of your
16” uprights. Square and plumb and tack the uprights and THEIR
crossmember into place.
See drawings and photos below.
Please note that I made my engine mounting plate out of 2 pieces of metal.
You can also if you need to.
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At this point we will divert our attention from the construction of the frame
to the loose assembly of the rear axle. I say loose because it is far too soon to
tighten or to key any of the pieces of the rear axle and proper alignment of
the various pieces cannot be done until the frame is almost complete and the
engine is test mounted.
We offer a complete rear axle kit. If you have bought this kit EVERY part
you need is included. However, you may already have a complete rear axle
assembly sitting in your garage in the form of a live axle go kart. If so, you
can use it just fine.
We have tried various gear ratios and brakes. Different engines require
different sprockets. However, I have found that a rear sprocket with 82 teeth
works great with 5-8hp engines. An engine larger than 8 hp can use a 72
tooth sprocket pretty well.
We prefer the internal expanding drum brake over the disk brake or band
brake. None of the brakes will lock the rear wheels but this ATV does not
need much braking power because it is so light.
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Lay out all the axle parts that came with your kit. Slide your sprocket hub
and sprocket on first. It will eventually go on the left side (viewed from the
rear) of the axle. Next, from the right side of the axle slide on the brake
backing plate, then the brake drum.
Now you can slide on the axle bearings and 2-hole flanges and rear hubs.
Included in your rear axle kit are two axle flange “weldments”. See photo
below.
weldments
Loosely bolt the weldments to the bearing flanges. These weldments (and
thus the axle) will be centered 8” forward of the rear of the frame. I like to
lay the frame upside down and then lay the loosely assembled rear axle
where it should go on the frame. When the weldments are where they should
be, tack in place.
Now cut two pieces of 1x1 square tubing 3 inches long. These pieces
connect the front side of the weldments to the bottom side of the frame (see
photo below) . Weld out these braces and the weldments. The rear axle is
temped in place. Please note the photos below show a disk brake installed
instead of the reccomended drum brake. The disk brake looks cool but does
not work well at all.
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Front Axle
Cut a piece of 1.5” x 1.5” square tubing 23.5” long. We sell king pin
brackets for the front axle but you can make your own if you want to. The
king pin brackets are made with an offset. The offset goes to the bottom side
of the axle. Be sure that you understand this. Orientate, and center (both
directions) the king pin brackets (spindle component) on the front axle. Tack
up and weld out.
Spindle Components
After it is cool, insert (top side up as it will eventually be run) the welded
front axle into a hydraulic tubing bender similar to the one shown below.
Use the 1” ram dies since you are going to let the tubing ride on the
shoulders of the die anyway. Put a degree finder (Walmart-$9.99) onto one
side of the axle and bend the axle till the degree finder shows 2.5 degrees.
Hydraulic Bender (borrow one)
This may or may not be exactly perfect but if it’s not perfect you’ll never
know it.
The purpose of the bend is to make the spindles run horizontal when
installed onto the king pins.
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Center the bent axle 6” rearward onto the bottom of the lower frame half and
side to side and weld into place. See photos below.
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Spindles, Tie Rod, Drag Link
The spindles are made from a pair of ¾” x 5” gr 8 bolts welded to a pair of
2.5” lengths of heavy wall tubing having a 5/8” inside diameter so that the
king pin bolts will have a nice,tight fit.
The tubing I use is ¾” outside diameter and 5/8” inside diameter. If you
can’t find it, I sell it.
Mark the center of each of the 2.5” lengths of tubing. Grind the marks off
the heads of the ¾” bolts. Tack the bolts square and plumb to the center of
the tubing. When satisfied that they are square and plumb, weld out very
well.
After the spindles are cool bolt them to the front axle using 5/8” x 4” gr 8
bolts and lock nuts. Work the spindles through their full travel and oil. The
spindle parts fit in a weird way, not quite flush on the bottom. But they work
well. As they loosen, tighten the bolts more. Repeat this until it all fits well
and it is not too tight and not too loose. After you begin riding your ATV
you will need to tighten and oil the king pin bolts every once and a while. I
do not use the plastic bushings on mine. They are not heavy duty enough.
Cut two pieces of 3/16” x 1” flat material. Drill a 5/16” hole ½” from the
end of each of the pieces. These pieces will weld onto the backside of the
intersection of your spindle bolts and the tubing that you just welded. These
are your steering arms and MUST be welded very well. There is a lot of
force on these arms when off road in rough terrain and you want them to be
of top quality construction. See photos below.
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Steering Arm, left side
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Steering Arm, right side
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Steering Arms, both sides
The tie rod for this ATV is built from ½” outside diameter round tubing but
you can use anything similar in size.
Cut a piece of ½” round tubing 18” long. Weld a 5/16” x 1.5” fine threaded
bolt (weld the head) to each end of the tube. Screw on a 5/16” nut and a
female tie rod end to each of the bolts you just welded on. The nuts are
tightened to secure the tie rod end in position after adjusting toe in. Using a
pair of 5/16” x 1.5” std thread bolts and lock nuts, secure the tie rod to the
steering arms.
Toe in should be about ¼”. Too little toe in will make the ATV road walk
badly at higher speeds. Too much will do the same.
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Remember, this is not a $7000.00 ATV with nice independent suspension
and racing geometry and it will not drive like one of them. I regularly drive
my ATV 30-35 mph on the road and do well but faster than that and it can
get dangerous.
Cut a piece of ½” tubing 1 ¾” long. Just as you did with the tie rod, weld the
same bolts to this piece and assemble. This is your drag link. It connects the
steering shaft to the tie rod and transfers handlebar movement to the front
wheels.
Drag Link
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Upper Frame Half
The Upper frame half is made from 1” round tubing or EMT. Cut two pieces
of 1” round tubing 60” long. Place a 55 degree bend with the center of the
bend 21” from what will be the front end of the tubes.
These pieces will be long on each end so you may fit them to the lower
frame by holding each tube in place and marking the cuts.
I miter the front end of each tube till it fits the top of the front axle (roughly
a 35 degree miter) and then position, mark and cut the rear end of the tube
where it intersects the upper frame crossmember. The upper frame halves
are centered on the lower frame on 9.5” centers. See photos and drawings.
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Upper frame halves
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Steering Shaft, Handlebars
The steering shaft is built of ½” std wall pipe. Overall diameter is 7/8”. Cut a
piece of ½” pipe 25” long.
Cut a piece of 1” wide x .125” flat material 3.25” long. Drill a 5/16” bolt
hole 7/8” from one end. This is the steering shaft arm. You can drill a hole
closer to the radus to slow down the steering ratio if dsired.
Position the arm as shown in the photo with the steering shaft flush with the
undrilled end and weld.
Cut two pieces of round tubing with a 7/8” internal diameter. These will be
the sleeves that the steering shaft runs through. These sleeves weld to 2
braces that in turn, weld to the upper frame half. Slide these sleeves over the
steering shaft now.
The bottom sleeve should be positioned flush against the arm you just
welded to the bottom of the shaft. To keep this sleeve in position and to also
prevent the shaft from falling through the sleeve when vertical, you may
weld a small tack to the steering shaft itself about 1/16” above the sleeve. Do
not tack sleeve to shaft.
To make the above braces you can use most any material. I used left over ¾”
square tubing scraps. Measuring up from the top of the front axle along the
upper frame halves, place marks at 3 5/8” and 17 ¼”. Weld the braces on
these marks.
Center the steering shaft vertically and side to side on the braces and weld
the sleeves to the braces.
Connect one end of the drag link to the shaft steering arm as shown below.
Cut a piece of 1” x .125” flat material. Drill a 5/16” hole 5/8” from one end.
Bolt this piece to the other end of the drag link. With the steering shaft arm
running perfectly straight front to rear of the ATV tack this connector piece
to the top side of the tie rod. If it all looks good weld it out.
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Do all that you can do to make your steering shaft fit tight. This makes it
drive much better.See photos.
Drag Link
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Cut a 40” long piece of ½” pipe (7/8” O.D). This piece will be your
handlebar. Working off of the center of the piece measure 6.5” off center
each way. These marks will be the center of your primary bends.
Leave the 1” dies in your hydraulic pipe bender. Position one of the marks
you just made on the center of the die, put your degree finder on one side of
the pipe to gauge your progress and pump slowly. Bend the pipe till the
degree finder shows about 27 degrees. This will net you about a 55 degree
bend.
Being careful to index the piece in the bender, make the opposite bend in
the same manner. The bends you just made provide the “rise” to your
handlebar. Now you must level the outside ends of the handlebar.
To do this, orientate the piece in the bender so that the bands will be in the
proper direction. I like to flush the ends of the pipe with the outside roller of
the bender and then pump until I like what I see. Some like a small amount
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of upsweep on the bars, others like them dead level. Count your pumps this
time and duplicate the bend on the other end when satisfied.
After the bar shape is to my liking I like to put a 10 degree bend into the
horizontal plane of the bar. This gives me a slightly sweptback feel. This is
common ½” pipe. If you ruin a few pieces it’s ok and very cheap.SEE
photos.
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After your handlebar is bent to your liking center it on the top of the steering
shaft and weld out securely.
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Seat and Seat Mounting
The seat on this ATV can be built from scratch or purchased. We sell a nice
seat that you can easily bolt onto this frame. You can also buy a good used
ATV seat on Ebay if you like.
Regardless of what seat you choose it is a simple matter to attach it to the
frame.
We use 1” x .125 flat seat braces or 1” round tubing saddled to the frame in
the correct places for the seat you have chosen to use. Almost anything will
do for seat mounts. Place the mounts whereever needed to fit the seat you
have built or purchased.
We will leave all this up to you. Pictured below are photos of a home made
seat and the seat we sell.
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we sell this seat
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Fender Substructure
This ATV can be run with or without fenders. It just depends upon what
type of terrain you will be riding over. I like to drive over muddy terrain so I
have added fenders.
If you live in sandy country I wouldn’t even bother building fenders. If,
however, you want to plow through mud then you will really appreciate
fenders☺
Cut four pieces of ¾” square tubing 44” long. These will be your fender
crossmembers. Measuring from the rear of the bottom half of the frame
forward place marks at 22.5” and 41 3/8”. These are the center marks for the
lower rear and lower front crossmembers. Center up and weld. While we are
here cut two pieces of ¾” square tubing 17 7/8” long and use these pieces to
connect (front to rear) the crossmembers on each side. These serve to
eventually lay your steel footrests (13” x 17.5” x .125” flat steel) on and
weld to. Photos are below of footrests.
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Now, insert one of the 44” pieces of square tubing into the 1” square tubing
crossmember that the upper frame halves were welded to. Center it up and
weld.
Cut a 17.5” piece of ¾” square tubing. Using the last 44” piece of square
tubing create a “TEE” which will serve as the front fender crossmember.
Photos are below.
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heres the front “TEE”
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After the crossmembers have been welded we come to the actual round
tubing used for the fender substructure. You can use most any type of
thinwall round tubing available. I use ¾” EMT (about 1” overall diameter)
which is available anywhere in the USA for almost nothing. I use a 1”
conduit bender to bend the emt. Below is a conduit bender without the
handle installed.
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Cut four pieces of ¾” tubing 41 inches long. Each piece should have a 32
degree bend centered at 23” from what will be the bottom (forward) end of
the brace.
The outside braces go on first. As seen in the photos the bottom end of each
brace must be saddled lightly to mate to the ¾” square tubing crossmembers.
Position the lower end of the outside braces flush with the ends of the
crossmember and tack. Position the upper end about flush with the end of
the upper crossmember and after making adjustments for square, tack and
weld. Repeat for the other outside brace.
The inside braces are installed the same way. Cut a piece of ¾” EMT 44”
long. Saddle the ends of each of the upper braces, position this piece
centered and weld out. Trim the ends flush after welding.
Cut two pieces of ¾” EMT 20” long. These are the diagonal braces that
connect the rear fender connector brace (44” piece) to the lower frame half.
These provide load bearing ability to the ATV fender. SEE photos below.
Please note that this rear brace in the photo below is saddled differently
than the instructions call for. The method you were told to do is easier
but you may do it either way.
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Cut four pieces of ¾” EMT 37” long. Put a 60 degree bend centered at 23”
on each piece.
Position and tack each of these pieces as we did the rear bracing. Below are
photos of the front fender bends. Study the photos and then we will continue.
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Yes, there is a disc brake shown in the pictures. No, it did not work well.
Position your rear sprocket near where it should be to line up with the
countershaft sprocket on the torque converter. Install and tension the chain.
Spin the rear wheels to find exactly where the rear sprocket should be
secured. With the sprocket loose on the axle it will almost be self-centering.
Secure the rear sprocket with set screws and key. Also, install keys and set
screws in rear hubs and tight all including lock nuts that secure hubs to axle.
Tension chain like you would a motorcycle.
Lets talk about brakes.
I have tested several brakes on this ATV and am not 100% satisfied with any
of them. The good news is, this ATV needs very little braking power.
I have had the best luck with the drum brake shown in the pictures below.
Properly set up, it will hold the ATV to a slow crawl when going down a
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hill. The brake is already on the axle (loosely) and now requires a
restraining arm as shown in photos below.
The restraining arm locates the brake backing plate. Connecting the backing
plate to the frame.
note my trailer hitch. I can and do pull 12’ trailers, no problem.
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midway
With the brake backing plate and drum position on the rear axle cut a 10”
long piece of ¾” x ¾” square tubing. Drill a .250” bolt hole on one end. Bolt
the restraining arm to the slot provided on the backing plate and then weld to
frame as shown above.
Connect brake lever and cable to handlebars on left side. Install midway.
Connect cable to brake actuation arm. After cycling brake lever a few times
you will have to adjust cable again.
After the rear axle is installed it is time to install the throttle control. Simply
slip the twist grip throttle onto the right side of the handlebar and tighten the
screws.
Route the throttle cable to the engine and connect in whatever configuration
is necessary for your particular engine. Be sure you have some method to
kill the engine also. This varies from engine to engine.
Crank your engine after verifying oil is in the crankcase and fuel is in the gas
tank.
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With your ATV on blocks or jacked up securely run the engine at slow
speed and verify that chain is properly aligned.
Now for the real fun, hop on the ATV and test ride. After a few minutes go
over the entire ATV looking for loose bolts, etc. Readjust brake as needed. It
wears in a lot during the first hour or so.
Lastly, this ATV will run MUCH faster than it should be driven. Be wise
and drive it at a safe speed at all times.
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