Huskylock 1002 x
Transcription
Huskylock 1002 x
Husqvarna HANDBOOK FOR HUSKYLOCK SEWING MACHINE MODELS ic “IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS” When using the sewing machine, basic safety precautions should always be followed, including the following. “Read all instructions before using.” DANGER — To reduce the risk of electric shock. 1. The sewing machine should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug this sewing ma chine from the electrical outlet immediately after using and before cleaning. 2. Always unplug before relamping. Replace bulb with same type rated 2.4 watts. \AIAR N IN G 1 2 3 — To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons. Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when the sewing machine is used by or near children. Use this sewing machine only for its intended use as described in this manual. Use only accessories recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual. Never operate this sewing machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the sewing machine to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment. 4 Never operate the sewing machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the sewing machine and toot control free from the accumulation of lint, dust, and loose cloth. 5 Never drop or insert any object into any opening. 6. Do not use outdoors. I. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered. B To disconnect, turn the main switch to the symbol “0” position which represents off, then remove plug from outlet. 9, Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord. 10. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the sewing machine needle. 11. Always use the proper needle plate, The wrong plate can cause the needle to break. 12. Do not use bent needles. 13. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle causing it to break. 14. Swrtch the sewing machine to the symbol “0” position when making any adjustments in the needle area, such as threading needle, changing needle, threading bobbin, or changing presser foot, and the like. 15. Always unplug the sewing machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when making any of the user servicing adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual. “SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS” ‘ T 4 his sewing machine is intended for household use.” • When leaving the sewing machine unattended, the mains switch of the machine must be switched off or the plug must be removed from the socket-outlet. • When servicing the sewing machine, or when re moving covers or changing lamps, the machine or the electrical set must be disconnected from the supply by removing the plug from the socketoutlet. FOR USERS IN THE UK. EIRE, MALTA AND CYPRUS ONLY. If your sewing machine is fitted with a 3 pin non rewireable BS plug then please read the following. IMPORTANT If the available socket outlet is not suitable for the plug supplied with this equipment, it should be cut off and an appropriate three pin plug fitted. With al ternative plugs an approved fuse must be fitted in the plug. NOTE: The plug severed from the mains lead must be destroyed as a plug with bared flexible cords is hazardous if engaged in a live socket outlet. In the event of replacing the plug fuse, use a fuse ap proved by ASTA to BS 1362, i.e. carrying the mark, rating as marked on plug. Always replace the fuse cover, never use plugs with the fuse cover omitted. WARNING: DO NOT CONNNECT EITHER WIRE TO THE EARTH TERMINAL WHICH IS MARKED WITH THE LETTER ‘E’, BY THE EARTH SYMBOL OR COLOURED GREEN OR YELLOW. . The wires in this mains lead are coloured in accord ance with the following code: Blue Neutral Brown Live As the colours of the wiring in the mains lead of this appliance may not correspond with the coloured markings identifying the terminals in your plug, pro ceed as follows. The wire which is coloured blue must be connected to the terminal which is marked with the letter ‘N’ or coloured black or blue. The wire which is coloured brown must be con nected to the terminal which is marked with the let ter ‘L’ or coloured red or brown. CONGRATULATIONS ON CHOOSING THIS COMPACT OVERLOCK SEWING MACHINE Your machine is a high quality, easy-to-use product. To fully enjoy all the features, we suggest that you study this booklet. If you need more information regarding the use of your machine, your nearest authorized dealer is always happy to be of service. Enjoy yourself! WHEN THREADING, REPLACING NEE[)LE OR LIGHT BULB, BE SURE TO TURN OFF THE MAIN POWER SWITCH OF THE MA CHINE. WHEN THE MACHINE IS NOT IN USE, IT IS RECOMMENDEI) THAT THE ELECTRIC SUPPLY PLUG IS DISCONNECTED FROM THE WALL SOCKET TO AVoID ANY POSSIBLE HAZARDS. TABLE OF CONTENTS NAMES OF PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS Five-thread model Four-thread models ACCESSORIES HOW TO USE THE ADVISOR FUNCTION Basic operation Explanation of troubleshooting screen SETTING UP YOUR MACHINE Motor NEEDLE For five-thread model For four-thread models THREADING Before threading... Threading upper looper Threading lower looper Threading the double chain stitch looper thread THREADING NEEDLES 1) Right needle thread 2) Threading the left needle thread 3) Double chain stitch needle thread 4) Threading the right needle for model with no LCD STITCH SELECTION THREAD SETTING FOR VARIOUS STITCHES Five-thread overlock stitch Four-thread overlock stitch Three-thread overlock stitch Double chain stitch SETTING FOR DOUBLE CHAIN STITCH SEWING 1. Retracting the upper looper 2. Retracting the upper cutter 3. Removal and installation of cutter cover II SETTING FOR TWO-THREAD OVERLOCK STITCH SEWING SEWING Four-thread, three-thread or two-thread sewing Five-thread or double chain stitch sewing THREAD TENSION ADJUSTMENT RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN SEWING MATERIAL, THREAD AND NEEDLE STITCH LENGTH AND STITCH WIDTH Stitch length Stitch width STITCH WIDTH AND CUTTING WIDTH FINE-TUNE ADJUSTMENT DIFFERENTIAL FEED PRESSER FOOT NARROW OVERLOCK STITCH/ROLLED EDGE STITCH EXAMPLES OF SEWING APPLICATIONS FOR OVERLOCK SEWING MACHINES PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS CHANGING THE LIGHT BULB MAINTENANCE 1—4 5—6 7—8 9 10—12 13—17 18—19 21—22 23—24 25—27 28 29—iO ,., 31—34 35 36 37 38 39 40—41 42—43 44 45 46 NAMES OF PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS at w .sr w at W — Five-thread model /1 ( [)contrist / idj ustfli ent Cl i Speed selec tor (I St) IL 1/2 (Sto\ Rdted illTIt) E,ulb 8V 24VV LAMP MAX 24W (fIJ Ott- ON cj Close the Ironi O\ or hetore operating the nla hnie. Close the material plate cover hefore operating the machine. —1 C 7 ) Pressure adjustment dial ® Thread tension dial tor eu needle thread and tor double ( ham stitch thread ® Thread tension dial tor right needle thread (& Liquid r stal display ILC[)) ® Liquid crystal display keys © Thread tension dial for upper looper thread ® Thread tension dial tor lower looper thread ® Presser foot leer ® Thread tension dial (For double diain stitch looper thread) iE Front cover @ Needle plate © Presser foot Efj Stitch width control dial Stitch length control dial Ditterential teed control dial Cutter retracting knob © Material plate coser (rear) Light switch Material plate cover )tront) Double chain stitch looper threading mechanism @ Control cover Stitch finger change lever Lower looper threading mechanism Upper looper Movable stitch finger 2i3 Thread convert lever © Double chain stitch looper ® Lower looper -2- © Chain stitch leser (Upper looper release knob) © LCD contrast adjustment dial ® Thread guide Thread holder Thread holder stand Handle © Spool pin i Spool support © Main power switch Power cord socket Foot control jack Handwheel O Foot control © Power cord © Spool support br double chain stitch thread NAMES OF PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS — e W .r Four-thread models L( I) adjustnwnt dial Speed selector / Hi tblow Model th 0 [) on Rdted lam p bulb by 2 4V5 LAMP MAX 24W rU OFF ON .2 Close the front over belore operating the machine II L Close the material plate cover before operating the machine. -3 CD Pressure adjustment dial CD Thread tension dial for left needle thread CD Thread tension dial tor right needle thread rodel ith ads sor function] CD Liquid rystal display (LCD) CD Liquid cr5 stal display keys ® L( L) contrast adjustment dial CD Thread tension dial or upper looper thread CD Thread tension dial tor lower looper thread ® Presser toot lever ® Front i over ® Needle plate @ Presser toot 0 Stitch width control dial 0 Stitch length control dial 0 Differential feed control dial 0 Cutter retracting knob © Material plate cover (rear) 0 Light switch co Material plate cover fronp Control cover D Stitch finger change lever © Upper looper Movable stitch finger ® 23 Thread convert leser Lower looper [owed looper threading mec hanisni ® Thread guide Thread holder -4- Thread holder stand 0 Handle 0 Spool pin 0 Spool support 0 Power cord soc ket 0 Foot control jack 0 Main power switch 0 Handwheel 0 Power cord 0 Foot control For rili)(l el with [Cl) 0 Foot control (For nirolel without [CD) >< 0 0 m > (Th fl rn I > > Cl, m 0 ci, C,) m C) OILER [ I NEEDLE SET SCHMETZ I 130/705H For five-thread model 5 pcs. For tour-thread models 4 pcs. J TWEEZERS CLE\N INC BRUSH SCREWDRIVER (Large) C UTTER CE)’vER II I or tw-thread model SCREWDRIVER (Small) —6- _ USE THE ADVISOR FUNCTION TO HOW a’ .ms” -r nr tr a All of the operations required for sewing appear as a guide on the display. I IlK) Al) 051 RIOt k elo riikiI “.1 L crcrcr ii ‘na I n’Ie t key L1a1 U t ke (1) S roll loos and key Scroll back key Press key EDto select the sewing stle. [) 5 THREAD OVFRLOCK — B) c\ If key )2) SEt FUE BY ‘A” OR ‘tI” KEY SEtTINGS lIT ‘i”MID ‘1 is pressed continuously, the display will return to the initial sewing style. to select the material type. Next, press key A) B NORMAL MATERIAL SELECt BY “A” OR “W EEl SETtINGS BY AND B) NORMAL (STRETCH) SELECT BY ‘A’ OR “B” K SELECT BY “A” OR “B” KEY SETtiNGS BY “I” AND If key is pressed continuously, the display will return to the initial material type. key to proceed to the next screen. 13) Press the Operate according to the instructions which appear on the display. CJR \\ [)NEEDLE RIGHT(R) LEFt (L) FRONT F 2) THREAD 80/12 REMOVED HL9O 14 FOR LOi3?ERS TIIREADtNG ORDER GREEN BLUE PURPLE 3) THREAD FOR NEEDLES SYN’! HEcTIC ‘TYPE ‘THREADING ORDER YELLOW RED 8) CIJITER COVER CHMNSTITCH LEVER UP - H key is pressed continuously, the display will return to the screen in step (1) If the above (for selecting the sewing style). Press the GD key to move hack to the previous screen. -7- - 1 NARROV 05 [RI I) A B) NORMAl MATERIAl B) NORMAL (SIRFfO’H) B) WIN MAIFRIAL B)IIIIN (SIRFICI-p B) I HiC K MATERIAL B) 1HICK (STRETCH) A) Troubleshooting screen * The special blind stitch presser toot can be used. There is a troubleshooting screen at the end ot the sewing style screen. 1) Press the key to display the troubleshooting screen. A) flWUBLE’” BJSKIPPIt) STITCHES SEt BUt BY ‘“A” OR ‘“B” IthY SEtTINGS BY “1” p.Jj) “t” key to select the symptoms which correspond to the problem. 2) Nest, press the A) HtOUBLF* B) STOPPED SfflCHfS SELECT’ W “A” OR “B” KEY SET11NGSBY”” AND’)” j5Tn3NsION SELE(”i BY ‘“A” OR ‘B’ KEY SEflIN{IS BY “4” AND”t” B)THREAD BREAKS SELECT BY “A” OR ‘“B” KEY SE111NOSBY’”’ AND’”)” lithe key is pressed continuously, the display will return to the initial item. SKIPPI D SITI(’IIf S BAT) I HREAI) I INSION INREAI) BREAKS Pt!CKFRINGVERT1(A1 PUCKER1NG-STI)FWAYS MATERIAL SIRE toT DOES Nor FEED NEEDLE BREAKS MATERIAL SLIPPING MACHINE IS NOISY j key to proceed to the next screen. (3) Next, press the B B) B) B) B) B) B) B) B) B Operate according to the instructions whk h appear on the display. I) IS CORRECT NEEDLE USED? lithe key is pressed continuously, the display will return to the screen in step (1) above (initial troubleshooting screen>. l’ress the screen. • II an error message is displayed on the screen; / I I / / I COMBINATION iS . — / UNAGC’EPI’AHLE / III ‘ \ — \ -8- key to move back to the pre ions tithe sewing method and niateral combination are not aa eptable, an error message is displayed. a An error message is also displayed if you try to sew with the presser foot lever raised or the motor locked. SETTING UP YOUR MACHINE r S*W ‘Wr tr Connecting plugs When the machine is not in use, disconnect the plUg ot the power cord from the wall socket. Motor *The maximum operating speed of this sewing machine is 1,300 to l,S00 stitches per minute, which is quite tast compared to the operating speed of 600 to 800 stitches per minute for the ordinary home sewing mahine. It should be noted that the motor of this sewing machine turns in the same direction as the motor in an ordinary home sewing machine. The hearings in the motor are made of special, sintered oil—impregnated alloy mounted in oil-soaked tell to with stand long hours of continuous operation. Continuous operation of the sewing machine will slightly increase the tt’mperature of the motor. hut this will in no way affect the performance. The motor and foot control are equipped with ventilating holes, whk h must not be covered with loth or paper during use. * When the motor is running, sparks may be seen through the ventilating hole in the motor bracket on the side oppo site the handwheel. These sparks are produced by the carbon brushes and the commutator, and are of no signifk ance. Safely regulation for domestic sewing machines in conformity with “CEE Publication No.10, Part II, Setion C, Article 7.1”. When the machine is not in use, or when threading, replacing needle or light bulb, the mahine most be dis conne ted from the power supply by removing the plug from the wall socket. Use bulbs designed for max BV/2.4W. The machine has an interference suppressor br radio and television, complying with Directive No.87,308 E.E.C. and C.l.S.P.R. -9- NEEDLE For five-thread model ] — Ba, F Font Use SCHMETZ 1 O/7O5H needles (or the left (LI, right (R) and front (F) needles. As for proper size of needle for ea h material, refer to page 15 “RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN SEWING MATERIAL, THREAD AND NEEDLE”. * C runs e * Use only one or two needles at one time. Do not use with all three needles installed at the same time. It setting the left (LI and right IR) needles at the same time, the left needle will be shorter. How to check the needle *e,Jlr’ on Its flat side and a [‘lar r Io’i L the pa e is parallel or not Parallel Needle plate, glass, etc I, F: Double 1 lain F: Fe needle R: Right needle - 10- stit( It needle NEEDLE Right needle and double chain stitch needle Left needle and right needle Five-thread sewing Four-thread sewing Left needle set screw Three thread sewing IS —7 mm O2—O28 in II Blind stitch Flatlor k stitch Right needle Douhle chain stitch needle Three-thread sewing 5mm (0 12—0.2 in.ll Rolled edge stit ft Narrow ovemlock stitch Pin tuck stitch l)ouhle ham stmt h To remove the needle 1) Turn the main power switch to off, 2) Turn the handwheel counterclockwise b hand until the needle is in its highest position. 3) Loosen the needle set screw with screwdriver and remove the needle. Lightly tighten the screw at the unused needle position, so that it does not fall out while sewing. — You will never sew with three needles in place as illustrated. Double ham stitch needle set screw To insert the needle 1) Turn the main power switch to off. 2) Turn the handwheel until the needle bar is in its highest position. 3) Hold the needle with its flat side away from you and insert it as far as it goes. 4) Tighten the needle set screw securely. 5) If a needle does not go up all the way it may be necessary to loosen the other needle screw. -11- - For four-thread models Home use needle SCHMETZ 1 301705H should be UL * [J Fouri sewing used. There is a separate lett needle set sc rew L) for tightening the ktt needle and a right needle set screw (R) for tightening the right fl OCdle The needle set screw holds each needle. Bear this in mind when you loosen the set screw to exchange one or both needles. The left needle should be installed so that it is shorter than the right needle. 1hreeihread sewing 7 mm (0.2 0.28 in (] 13)ind stitch F )at)oc k stitch [5 Threethread sewing I —5 mm (0,12 0.2 in.)) Rolled edge St 1i h Narrow overlor k stitch Pin iuck stitch To remove the needle 1) Turn the main power swit Ii to of). 2) Turn the handwheel ounter( lockwise by hand until the needle is in its highest position. 3) Loosen the needle set s resv with a screwdriver and remove the needle. Lightly tighten the screw at the unused needle position, so that it does not fall out while sewing. J To insert the needle 1) 2) 3) 4) 5) Turn the main power switch to off. Turn the handwheel until the needle bar is in its highest position. Hold the needle with its flat side away from you and insert it as far as it goes. Tighten the needle set screw securely. If a needle does not go up all the way it may be necessary to loosen the other needle screw. - 12 - THREADING Raise the thread holder stand and position it so that the thread holders are directly above the spool supports. Fhn-ad tioktr N Place thread spools or ones on spool SUpports I HOW TO USE THREAD SPOOL CAP AND NET THREAD SPOOL CAP , use the thread spool cp as illustrated. 1 When you use a standard thread spoo NET If you are sewing wth loosely spun nylon or decorative thwad, we reomrnerid that you cover the spool with the net supplied to prevent the thread born slip ping off the spool. Adapt the net to the shape of the spool as illustrated. - 13 - Before threading... 1) Turn off the main power switch for safety. Turn on the main power switch when referring to the LCD in order to thread the needle, but disconnect the loot con trol from the machine as a safety measure. 2) Raise the presser foot by using presser foot lever. I h read ienson d sc , i When the presser foot is raised, the two thread tension discs in the thread tension control panel are released so that thread passes freely between them. Otherwise thread ten sion may not be correct. When threading the needle, always be sure to lift the presser and also take care to thread in the proper order, 4 J / 3) Set the needle bar in its highest position by turning the handwheel toward you. Turn the handwheel to find the easiest position br threading, and then thread the upper looper thread, lower looper thread, right needle thiead and then the lett needle thread or double chain stitch needle thread (5-thread model only) in that order. riizzzz Threading order Thread in the following order: H Upper looper thread (green) 2) Lower looper thread (blue) 3) Double chain stitch looper thread (purple) in case of S thread stitch or double chain stitch 4, Right needle thread (red) 5 Left needle thread or double (ham needle thread )vellow Bce ause the left thread tension dial (yellow) is used for either the left needle or the double chain stitch needle, needles will iiever be used at the same time. - 14 - THREADING Threading upper looper (green) Run the thread in the sequen e illustrated I rh ciii hi thic-ici ,il)iiijl ‘ in 6 ii inn ccl ,cl ruin rNOTE If upper looper thread breaks during sew ing Lower looper thread sometimes hangs upper looper, lii SU( Ii a t ase, loss er the upper looper h turning the han dwheel and take the lower looper thread ott trnrn uppei looper. Then r e— thread the upper looper. On - 15 - Threading lower looper (blue) Run the thread in the sequence Nustiated. Easy threading mechanism 1 Pull out the losver looper threading lever. 2) Thread the lower looper and position the thread on hook of the lower looper threading lever. 3 Push the lower looper threading lever hack to its basic while holding the end of the thread. - 16- position L When returning the lower looper threading lever, always make sure that the two blue triangle marks (V & A) meet each other as shown in the illustration. ThREADG Threading the double chain stitch looper thread (purple) <5-thread model only> Run the thread in the sequence illustrated. Threading the thread 1) Thread the thread as far as step 2> While holding the end of the thread, thread the thread onto the take—up thread guide of the double chain stitch looper using the tweezers. . Using the double chain stitch looper threading mechanism 1) Open the material plate cover ((root) to the len. 2) Lift up the looper threading knob. it After threading the thread onto the double chain stitch looper threading hook, thread it through the double chain stitch looper. 4) While holding the end of the thread, return the looper threading knob to its original position 5) Bring the cham stitch looper thread octr the lower and upper looper threads and straight back behind two needles with a 6” tail. 6 Close the material plate cover (front). Z? *x Wrong - 17 - Threading the thread on the double chain stitch looper hook _______________ THREADING NEEDLES Thread the needles after threading of lower looper and upper looper. First raise the presser foot lever, and then thread the needle threads in the order shown in the illustration. 1) Right needle thread (red) re to thread the double chain stitch looper before [threading the needle. J 2) Threading the left needle thread (yellow) ,Left need’e thread GD C PeW out the thwack about 15 cm (6 ut.) away from uu - 18- THREADING NEEDLES 3) Double chain stitch needle thread (yellow) <5-thread model only> Thriid - — — Pull uut the thn uls ahout I 1 111 if, ia’, 1,1,11 i eli 4) Threading the right needle for model with no LCD <4-thread model only> Pull ,,ul tI,,’ threak 9 iii if, I,, ,o Ire,,, u,, - 19 - - 20 - STITCH SELECTION ar — a t- aa This machine can form six kinds of stitches in simple steps as follows: 1. FIVE-THREAD ()VERLOCK STITCH <i-thread model only> 6, 7, 8 mm (0.24, 0.28, 0.31 in.)] [Stitch width Use five threads to produce overlock seams for medium-the k material. Use: For overlock stitching of sewing sLilts, blouses, draperies, jeans, (‘t( 2. FOUR-THREAD OVERLOCK STITCH 5, 6, 7 mm (0.2, 0.24, 0.28 in.)] fStit (1 width Use four threads and two needles for producing four-thread overloc k stitc hes, which v ill neatly tit all kinds of materials, espe ially knitted ones. Use: Ideal for overlock sewing ot woven and knitted garments — 3. THREE THREAD OV[RLOCK STITCH 5, 6, 7 mm (0.2, 0.24, 0.28 in.)] [Stit(h width Use three threads and the left needle for prOducing 5, 1, or 7 mm seams. Remove the right needle when sewng this overloc k stit Ii. Use: For seam finishing and ses ing suits, blouses, sla( ks, et — - 21 - 4. THREE-THREAD OVERLOCK STITCH [Stitch width— 3, 4, 5 mm (0.12. 0.16, 0.2 in.)] Use three threads and the right needle for producing 3, 4 and 5 mm seams which will neatly fit all kinds of materials. Remove the left needle when sewing this overlock stitch. 5. NARROW OVERLOCK STITCH/ROLLED EDGE STITCH Use three threads and the right needle. (Refer to “NARROW OVERLOCK STITCH/ROLLED EDGE STITCH” on pages 40—41.) (Refer to “NEEDLE” on pages 10—12,) 6. DOUBLE CHAIN STITCH SEWING <5-thread model only> Use two threads and the douhle chain stitc.h needle. This is ideal for plain stitching for whith overlocking is not necessary. (Refer to “SETTING FOR DOUBLE CHAIN STITCH SEWING” on pages 25—27.) Chain needle ) thread I — 22 — THREAD SETTING FOR VARIOUS STITCHES — FIVE-THREAD OVERLOCK STITCH Thread in the following order: 1) Upper looper thread (green) 2) Lower looper thread (blue) i) Double chain stitch looper thread (purple) 4) Right needle thread (red) 5) Double chain needle thread (yellow) FOUR-THREAD OVER LOCK STITCH Thread in the following order: U Upper looper thread (green) 2) Lower looper thread (blue) ) Right needle thread (red) 4) Left needle thread (yello If the double chain stitch looper thread and the double ham stitch needle thread have been threaded, cut and remove the threads before four-thread Lerlock_stitch threading. - 23 - THREE-THREAD OVER LOCK STITCH Thread in the following order: 1) Upper looper thread (green) 2) l.ower looper thread (blue) )) Left needle thread (yellow) or right needle thread (red) If the double chain stitch looper thread and the double chain stitch needle thread have been threaded, cut and remove the threads before three-thread overlock stitch threading. DOUBLE CHAIN STITCH <5-thread model only> Thread in the following order: 1 ( [)ouhle hain stitch looper thread (purple) 2) Double chain needle thread yellow To use the double chain stifth looper threading mechanism, reler to page 17. This section deals only with double chain stitch sewing. Ac ordingly, carry out the as described on tlloJ Erations (‘no out the tho.d dI,,,ui 1)) in 4 IO.i dOJ\ iron-j .Ou - 24 - SETTING FOR DOUBLE CHAIN STITCH SEWING <5-thread model oy> a eW — 4afla crn,,fla 1. Retracting the upper looper To release the upper looper to lower the upper looper to its lowest position. 1) Turn the handwheel by hand in the direction of the arrow seurely 2) Next, move the upper looper release knob (chain stitch lever) in the direction of the arrow until it stops in the “Release” position (approx. 90’). 3) The upper looper will be automatically lowered and will not operate. zz After the upper looper has been released and before starting the sewing machine, turn the handwheel hy hand to confirm that the upper looper has been released one full revolution or more in the direction of the arrow and does not operate. ()perat lUpi RIe,ise Do\ fl To return the upper looper to the normal position to lower the upper cuttr’r to its lowest position. 1) Turn the handwheel by hand in the direction of the arrow 2) Next, turn the upper looper release knob (chain stitch lever) 90’ so that it is in the “Operate” position. 3) Sometimes the upper looper release knob may not move fully back 90’. However, if the handwheel is turned 2—3 times by hand, the knob will automatically return to the “Operate” position. In this case, do not fore the knob to turn. 4) The upper looper will be raised automati ally and can then be operated. Always be sure to operate the upper looper after double chain stitch sewing has been completed. At this time. turn the handwheel by hand one full revolution or more in the direction of the arow D to confirm that the upper looper can now operate. When operating the upper looper, remove cutter cover II. - 25 - 1 2. Retracting the upper cutter To sew without cutting the material 1) Raise the needle above the needle plate. 2) Open the material plate cover (front), and then push and turn the cutter retracting knob to retract the upper cut ter. fU ION! Set the overlock stitch width so that it is not wider than the scale on the stitch width control dial. If the overlock stitch width is set too wide, the upper looper will pull the edge of the material, which will cause problems with sewing. Before starting sewing, close the material plate cover (front). To cut the edges of two or more pieces of material and sew them In this case, set the upper looper so that it will not operate, and then start double chain stitch sewing with the cutter still iii thc’ operation condition. It is riot necessary to replace the cutter cover with cutter cover II at this time. - 26 - SETTING FOR DOUBLE CHAIN STITCH SEWING <5-thread model only> 3. Removal and installation of cutter cover II Installation of cutter cover II I ) open the tront (O er and pull I litter remove it. 2) n%ert the ac. essorv cutter tover C o\ er toward you to When using the cutter cover II, do not operate the upper c litter and the upper looper. -.________________ C iirer 01 double hitii .til( h IIlk Lines on cutter cover II Lines are drawn on cutter cover II at 5 mm (0.2 in.) lnterval%, with the line turthest to the left being 10 mm (0.4 in.) irom the center u the double chain stlt( h needle. I — 27 - zr 9 D C 9 rt C -n 9 C -n < F- —‘ -4 I n n C rn C I C -n 0 z C) m Cl) SEWING Four-thread, three-thread or two-thread sewing To start sewing Thread the machine and pull out the threads about 15 cm 16 in.) to the left of the presser foot. Place a scrap piece of the fabric you intend to use under the presser foot and sew a few stitches by turning the handwheel towards you by hand. Check the stitch to see it it is unitorrn. If not, recheck that the thread ing is correct. Make sure that you are lamiliar with the procedures at the sewing start before carrying out double chain stitch sewing. (Refer to page 30.> Operation * Turn on the main power switch and light switch. * When the pedal is lightly depressed, the machine runs at low speed, and as it is depressed further, the machine will increase speed. * With the scrap piece of fabric under the presser foot, lower the presser foot and test-sew. Guide the material gently by hand while sewing, Be careful not to pull it too strongly. (On models with LCD) The machine will not operate and an error message will appear on the LCD when the presser foot is raised. In this case, lower the presser foot lever and then start sewing again. To remove the work * When you reach the end of the fabric, continue sewing for about 3 cm 12 in.) to obtain chaining-off. Then trim off the stitches with a pair of scissors. Chaining-off * After sewing the fabric, keep the foot control depressed slightly for a while )chaining-off). The threads will entwine themselves into a chain and be fed forward automatically. If threads break during sewing Remove the fabric and re-thread orret)y (reter to pages 13 20, “THREADING” and “THREADING NEEDLES”). Put the fabric back under the presser foot and sew 3—-S cm (1.2 —2.() ni over the pre vious stitches. - 29 - Five-thread or double chain stitch sewing <5-thread model only> 1. When carrying out five-thread or double chain stitch sewing, first thread the threads, and then use scissors to trim a short section. Then place the trimmed edge against the upper cutter so that the needle begins sewing in the edge of the material. 2. rum the handwheel gently two or three times to check that the threads are running smoothly, and then slowly start sewing. 3. When you have sewn to the edge of the material, keep sewing at low speed to sew past the edge of the material (Chaining-off>. Pull the chaining-off stitch away in a diagonal direction. Cut off the extra thread about 5 cm (2 in.) from the edge of the ma terial. 4. When continuing on to sew another piece of material, sew the next piece without raising the presser foot. When sewing a chaining-off stitch, it is not necessary to ruse the presser foot. If the thread becomes tangled in the double chain looper, the double chain stitches will not be sewn properly. If these stitches are not being sewn properly, check the double chain looper. If it is tan gled with thread, remove the tangled thread, thread the thread again and then re-sew. - 30 - TENSION ADJUSTMENT THREAD __a__ — — rn’ w Thread tension dials I For right needle thread redi F-or eli needle thi cad and double (ham t)tch needle thread elIow) or upper h)(pi thread I greenS F or 00cr I thread (1,1w’ I Tension control Sewing is possible at position “4” under almost any cir umstan( es. If you find it impossible, adjust according to the drawing on pages 32—34. - 31 - Thread tension scale The thread tension may vary slightly depending on the type of material and the type and thk kness of the thread. Therefore, adjust the tension to suit the sewing conditions. An even stitch length can be obtained if the tension is adjusted so that it is stronger for thick materials and weaker for thin materials as shown in the illustranon at left, 9 8 rnitera) 1cuni 6 — Order of thread tension adjustment When you adjust the thread tension, do it in the following order: rnateN,iI Light 4 l 2 1 0 - FIVE-THREAD OVERLOCK STITCH 1) Right needle thread 2) Upper looper thread 3 Lower looper thread 4) Double chain stitch needle thread 5) Double chain stitch looper thread FOUR-THREAD OVERLOCK STITCH 1) [eli needle thread 2) Right needle thread 3> Upper looper thread 4) Lower looper thread This is the easiest way to obtain correct thread tension. - 32 - C.) C.) [N IIIIIH TrrnTll [H mrn flThF —J I Thu :_j J L__J L. I:! ZNJl I hnrT] nTfl-r HI LELHIJ 9 L7 lr’l I. l. J L: I lIlt LIHIHJ 1111 t ujJ [H III 11111 1111 11111 Ilil I 1111 1111 I I 1111 I -- 434 .4:.4.. Iz in, -I C C z 0 0 z m m I D in :T it D in C C D D in rn rn rn rnrn C nT rn C C D 3 C it D 2 [HI I rrn i liii I-Ill nTrrrrTl I liii I I I ml [il-I-nil inn [H urn 11111 [liii iii I lii :Ijjt I1 in (I, t.i C l.lI 1 il iitiil i [i iJ liI’IIlI liii J L l I liii Iii I I I 1111 iI I Lii RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN SEWING MATERIAL, THREAD A Materials tight (orgette material ( repe di- di rue Lawn ()rgand Osriltirk stit, h Narrovs I,’, &diii k our h Rolled edge stilt h H thread StrO h Spun thread #tlu I ( ottorl thread #110 100 sk thread #80 100 Needle thr cad I’rrk ester thread Nylon thread #80 Stitt h length Needle win rnj - 2_ti It lIi.08 0. t 21 Si tt’tl-[Z ttt tI, II 41711 or #1111 • l)oirl ne i hun stitu In needle #110 St H\lt 1/ II) ‘(1 ,t I Cr looper third) 4180 Pu!’, ester thread N ton threai I 41 lIlt #80 lÀ 0015 n’, Ion thread Medium material Poplin Ur iloi I. stitrh Silk thread Polyester thread Nylon thread B road loth (,abardine Knitted t--te,iv riiterral # 60—80 #611 (rttriii thread (,ingham Trir Spun bread 81) 2i t.5 0.10—0.141 #50- 80 #50 80 nerd Ic 41 5tt- 80 St FIIsIETL t to itIH 4’IO Ot nirre ( I weed Lien hO lersey (.Nerlock stitch Cotton thread Silk thread Polyester thread N’,louu thread #40 hO #411 60 41 (0 611 # (It 60 SCFtMFI/ lit) 7(rS H #80 or #9(1 •Douhle hann still h It (Ii 11 4.0 I) II,, St It’st[t/ till tI H #90 • l)ruiul)le u hauuu st it, ineeullu-’ Si H’dt 1/ 10 05[-t 41911 ii’, hia’, nuirter il #111(1) to the lowest posilton When ou arry the machine with threads threaded, push the thread holder stand down and wind the threads onto each spool. 35 - STITCH— LENGTH — AND STITCH WIDTH — Stitch length Open the control cover, then set the stitch length control dial to the proper position. Minimum 1 mm (0.04 in.> <position R> Standard 3 mm (0.12 in.> <position EJ> Maximum 5 mm (0.2 in.> <position 5> — Position “R” on the stitch length control dial is used for narrow overlock stttch/rolled edge stitch. (Refer to pages 40—41.> +1 (TIP> It you raise the presser foot, the stitch length control dial can he turned more easily. Stitch width The stitch width can be adjusted by turning the stitch width con trol dial inside the control cover. Position “R” on the stitch width control dial is used for narrow overlock stitch/rolled edge stitch. (Refer to pages 40—41.) I (TIP> If you raise the presser foot and open the front cover, the stitch width control dial (an be turned more easily. Dial R 5 thread-stitch - I - - 4 thread-stitch 3 thread stitch sith Iett needle ) thread-stitch right needle 5% th Narrow overlock stitch Rolled edge stitch 5 7 6 mm (in.) mm (in.) mm (in.) 6 (0.24) 7 (0 28) 8 (Oil) (0.2) 6 (0.24) 7 (0.28) 5 (0.2) 6 (0.24) 7 (0.28) 3 (0.12) 4 (0.16) 5 (0.2) Fot narrow overlock stitch/rolled edge stttch, refer to pages 40 41. - 36 - STITCH WflTH AND CUTTING tD! F!-TE USTMENT When you sew stretch materials, you sometimes will find that the gar ments are not properly overcast because of contraction of the material after cutting. When this occurs you can eliminate the problem by fine ad justment of the stitch width control dial through keeping the stitch width and increasing the cutting width. This unique feature will ensure good sewing results for all materials. How to adjust? When you turn the stitch width control dial, the stitch width can be set at 5, 6 or 7 mm (0.2, 0.24 or 0.28 in.) while the cutting width is inreased from 5 to 7 mm (0.2 to 0.28 in.). If you want to sew 5 mm (0.2 in.) stitch width but 5.5 mm (0.22 in.) cutting idth when sewing stretch materials, you only set the stitch width control dial within area “A” as illus trated. This will result in correct overcasting in stretch materials. Stit H v dth nun 0.2 in., Culling width 5- 6 mm 0 2—0 23 in.) Stach width S mm 02 in.) Cutting width mm 0.2 in.) <Standaid position> - 37 - DIFFERENTIAL FEED — What is differential feed”? The machine is equipped with two feed clogs, of which the front one (the differential feed dog) can be adjusted to feed more or less fabric in rela tion to the rear one (the main teed dog). It is adjustable between 0.7—2.0. The exact adjustment is dependent on the thickness and elasticity of the material. The stitch length also affects the adjustment. The longer the stitch, the more material is being fed for wards. How to adjust the differential feed Open the control cover, then adjust the feed ratio as required by means of the differential feed control dial. Example ot application Differential teed operation To pi event puckering ot thin materials Stink hey he material yessing Nor mal Os srkn k Sews normally scsi rig She ring lock to prevent stretching ot strr’tc Ii materia Is is Main teed dog rile Ditferential teed dog 0.7—1.0 c- C ontracts the nraterial while mu rig Ditterential teed ratio j I . 1.0 2.0 C Correct - 38 PRESSER FOOT Adjustment of presser loot pressure The pressure of the presser foot an he adjusted hy turning the pres sure adjustment dial. Since the machine has already been adjusted to a pressure suitable for light and medium fabrics, no further adiustment is necessary ex( ept when sewing very heavy or very light and stret( h material. • Standard position T I ghi in,rir’rral Si retth nraIer,rI Knitted material Increase rease .\Iigiinivnl ncr k Pressure indi ate r this Ifl( \Irrn the pi essure indicator vs ifs the a Irgirmesit mark tlS Changing the presser foot Raise the presser foot lever. Turn the handwheel to raise the needles to the highest position. Press the button on the back of the presser toot holder. Raise the presser foot lever one more step, and then remove the presser toot. 5) To replace, place the presser foot so that the support pin is dire tly below the presser foot holder, and then lower the presser foot lever. The presser foot will be set automatk ally. 1) 2) .3) 4) /7/7 7f/f’Ft’f’’/’ /////, 39 ______ NARROW OVERLOCK STITCH/ROLLED EDGE STITCH Four * Thread the threads in the same way as when doing three- thread overlock sewing with the right needle. ihrejcl ©II Di I R 1 Install the right needle only. Lightly tighten the screws at the unused needle positions, removing the screws. withoLit .2. Adtust the stitch length and stit h width. 1) Open the control cover. 2) Set the stitch length control dial to “R.” stilt ii enytli ut thin the r,tn,u’ shown in the iIluti ,ii on u eli iii ,e C ordi ie e with the type ti inatenat t the Ad u 1 .3) Set the stitch width ( ontrol dial to “R.” (TIP) For narrow overlock and rolled edge, set the needle, stitch length control dial and stitch width ontrol dial all to “R.” 3. Remove the movable stitch finger. 1) Raise the presser foot lever. 2) Check to be sure that the thread is not tangled on the stitch finger. If the thread is tangled, pull it out from behind to remove it. 3) Open the front cover 4) Turn the handwheel to lower the upper looper to its lowest posi tion. 5) While pressing the safety guard, turn the stit h finger change lever to the right to remove the movable stitch tinger from the needle plate. * [he satets puard (an onl he pressed when the upper looper is at its lowest position. Th sttu h linger hange le mr should only be turned when the presser loot has been removed or when the presser foot is raised. The upper looper and presser foot should also he in the same positions as given above when returning the mo\ stit( h tinger to the ordinary position. - - 40 - H LED EDGE STITC STITCH/ROL OVERLOCK n NARROW’ $ra awn flaw acne ann anne ann awgesnnrwfla Ratio chart of sewing material, thread and needle Right needle thread Upper thread Lower looper thread Nylon thread #80 Voiestei thread #80 Wool5 nylon thread l)en oratir e thread Nylon thread #80 Pol ster thread #8t) I t Thread Materials Røjed bemi #titch I ight material ( repe do [line (erirgette Thread ans Ti ten,ioil ( )rganrlv 2 Thread Materials Light niaterial ( repn di’ hi ire Lidue I Right needle thread Upper looper threarl Lower looper thread Nylon threarl #81) Polyester thread #80 Wooly nylon thread Nylon thread #80 Nylon thread #8)) Polyester thread #8(1 Pols ester thread # tO) - lawn — Thread ( )rgrndy - tension 3 (t- 5) ary de pending on the ts pe it n terra I and the 5 pe a rid th ii knew — 41 - I ) 5) L [Li1 Li may ‘I r(reeoj (erirgette The thread tension the sewing conditions. 0 (1 (2—4) 41 [ #h looj icr ot the threo I Theretr ic adjust the elision to suit ________ _______ EXAMPLES OF SEWING APPLICATIONS FOR OVERLOCK SEWING MACHINES R ,, ® Replace the presser foot with a blind stitch presser foot (multi purpose foot). Fold the material as shown in the illustration. Sewing will he easier if a crease is ironed into the folded material before sewing. © Raise the presser foot, set the material so that it is under the needle, and then lower the presser foot. © Adjust the guide position of the presser foot with the adjusting screw so that the needle is lightly touching the crease in the material. In this case, the thickness of the material is the crite rion. © While folding the material by hand, sew so that the needle just catches the edge of the crease. © Open up the material as shown in the illustra tion. ( To adjust the position of the material guide, the same piece of material can be used to make a test sewing. th An attractive finish can he obtained by using a thread that is the same color as the material and which is as fine as possible. “i’.’ * Use the bltnd stitch Pft’s(’r toot. For tour-thread mode): LB4 For five-thread model: LBS 2. Fiatlock stitching with multi purpose foot Set for 3-thread sewing ssith following thread ten sion. Needle: 0 Upper looper: normal Lower looper: increase slightly ® Replace the presser foot with a blind stitch presser foot (multi purpose foot). © Fold the material as shown in the illustratton. Then raise the presser foot, set the material so that it is under the needle, and then lower the presser foot. * Set the stitch width control dial to “7.” © Adjust with the adjusting screw so that the needle moves down to a position 2.5—3.0 mm (0.1—0.12 in.) inside the folded edge of the ma terial so that some of the stitching loops over the edge. © While guiding the material with your hand, sew at a constant speed. ® Pull the material open (flat) as shown n the il lustration. * This method is not suitable for thin materials. * To adjust the position of the material guide, the same piece of material can be used to make a test sewing. 1 Matt’ri,iI gude / / * Use the blind stitch presser foot. For four-thread model: t.B4 For five-thread model: LBS - 42 EXAMPLES OF SEWING APPLICATIONS FOR OVERLOCK SEWING MACHINES I MLP!P Use the blind stitch presser toot guide and make narrow overlock stitches to procioc e seams in the form of tucks at equal distances from each other. For thin materials, it’s a good idea to choose a fine thread whir h runs smoothly ® Replace the presser foot with a blind stith presser foot. lf Set up the machine for narrow overloc k stit h ing. (Refer to pages 40—41.) © First, draw regular-spaced marking lint’s on the material as guides for pin tucking. © Adjust so that the guide of the blind stit h presser foot is aligned with the line on the right of the stitch finger. © Align the crease with the guide and insert the material as far as the needle position. fiD Sew along the marking lines which were made on the material while guiding the material. © Continue sewing until all marking lines hase been sewn. Correct minor contractions by hand, %tIi( h presser toot. For tour-thread model: 04 For live-thread model: Ltt * Use the blind Attractive decorative stitches can be macic throogh different combinations of material and thread. Dec orative thread with a high thread r,ount or ex tremely fine thread can be used as the upper looper thread to product’ decorative stitd hing with an even stitch length. F se the sta idard prosser toot or on r’th read n iod’ I: I R 4 I or is t-- thread rroelel I Other special presser feet 1 - Tape presser foot 2. Pearl sequence presser foot 3 Piping presser foot Preser toot [P - For all models: LT - 43 _________ PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS Whenever sewing diffi ulties are encountered, review the section of the instruction book that explains about the operation you are performing to make sure that you are using the machine correctly. If the problem persists. the fol lowing cheek list may help you to correct it. If you still have difficulties, contact your nearest authorized service center. Probleni 1. Skipped stitches Cause 3. Thread breaks. Install correctly. 10-12 Thread is incorrectly threaded. Thread correctly. 13-24 Presser toot pressure is too weak. Turn the presser foot pressure adjustment dial to the right to Lnrease the_pressure. 39 0) needle is being riced. Refer to “Thread tension adjustment”. 31 -34 Refer to “Stitch width and cutting width fine-tune adjustment”. 37 Thread is incorrectly threaded. Thread correctly. 13-24 Thread is inc orrectlv threaded. Thread correctly. 13-24 Check that thread is not hooked on thread guide.____________ 13-19 Thread tension is too strong. Refer to “Thread tension adjustment”. 31-34 Needle is bent, or tip of needle is broken. Needle isicorrectlynistalled. 7hread tension is too strong. Replace with a new needle, 10-12 Install correctly. lf sewing with thin material, reduce the tension as necessary. Turn the presser loot pressure adjustment dial to the left to decrease the pressure. Refer to “Stitch width and cutting width fine-tune adjustment”. Thread correctly. 10-12 32 Stitch width is inappropriate. not feed. Use a SCHMETZ 130/70Th Stitch width is inappropriate. Presser foot pressure is too strong. 5. Mat’ ial does 10-12 Thread tension is incorrect. F Thread is hooked up incorrectly. 4. Material is puc kered. Page Replace with a new needle. lncorre t type 2. Stitch tension is incorrc’( t. Remedy Needle is bent, or tip of needle is broke ii Needle is incorrectly installed. Thread is incorrectly threaded, or thread is hooked up incorrectly. Differential feed adjustment is incorrect. Refer to “Differential feed”. Presser foot pressure is too weak. Turn the presser foot pressure adjustment 39 37 13-19 38 -39 dial to the right to increase the pressure. Stitch length is not appropriate for the material. Set the stitch length correctly; 36 Needle is bent, or tip of needle is Replace with a new needle. 10-12 Needle set screw is loose, or needle is incorrectly installed, Install correctly. 10-12 Material is being pulled too tightly. Do not press or pull the material too strongly while sewing. 29 7. Sewing machine does not operate. The power cord is unplugged from the power supply, or the power switch is not switcher) on. Plug in the power cord, or turn the switch on. 29 Presser foot is raised imodels with LCD). Lower the presser foot. 29 8. Nothing appears C ontrast adjustment dial is incorrectly Turn the LCD contrast adjustment dial up- 1, 3 6. Needle breaks. broken. on the LCD (models with positioned. csard. LCD. -44- ________________________ _____ CHANGING THE ‘fltW Wfl< LIGHT “ata’tt aw ‘a BULB 0 Always be sure to turn off the power before carrying out the following operation. 1 Changing the light bulb Remove the lamp (over as shown in the illustration. Take out the light hulh and i epla e it with a ness one. * * A new light bulb t8V, 2.4W, Part No.X O228—O() I I an he pur chased at your nearest authorized dealer. When removing the lamp cover, be caretul not to tug the ( urd which is attahed to the cover. J Retracting the upper cutter How to retratt the upper cutter utter retr,c ting knob \\\\ To sew without cutting the material 1) Raise the needle above the needle plate. 2) Open the material plate cover (front), and then push and turn the cutter retracting knob to retract the upper cut ter. Set the overlock stitch width so that it is not wider than the scale on the stitch width control dial. It the overlo k stitch width is set too wide, the upper looper will pull the edge of the material, ss hich will ause problems with sewing. ckBefore starting sewing. (lose the material plate cover frontl. - 45 - MAI NTENANCE ays be sure to turn oil the power betore carrying out the tollowing operation. OiIng rig pi rts Fur sni ri( )t h a rid sile it o )ri ration the n i chine should be oiled periodically. See illustratioiH 01 the na — REMARK: Oil once or tsvic e a month ii the mac hine is used normally. It the mat hine is used more olten, oil rim e a week. ARsa use high quality sewing machine oil. Cleaning i) and Periodically open the tront over (Sec pages I clean the parts inside the machine using the accessory leaning brush. -, - 46 -