Bespoke Bride - Brooke Showell

T
b
a
he dream of a bespoke wedding gown
often begins with an idea … a wisp of tulle,
a billowing train, a smattering of crystals
or a stunning neckline that’s impossible to forget.
When that perfect dress simply does not exist (or
when trying on armfuls of styles renders the search
futile), discerning brides turn to an expert designer to
fulfill the ultimate wedding fantasy: a one-of-a-kind
custom gown. The bespoke experience is an exciting
process in which bride and designer collaborate to
make a vision, no matter how grande, come to life.
For Mary Senin, who was planning her May
2010 wedding at The Ritz-Carlton Georgetown,
Washington, D.C., the dream began with a dramatic entrance. Upon attending top wedding-gown
designer Amsale Aberra’s fall bridal show, an exquisite strapless silk taffeta mermaid-style gown caught
her eye as soon as the model wearing it entered the
room. “I saw it on the runway and it took my breath
away,” she says. “I had never seen anything like it —
I gasped because it was so stunning.”
Mary knew she wanted a true showstopper
for her wedding. So rather than go showroom to
showroom, she reached out to Amsale directly.
One of the most fashionable names in bridal couture, with a rich background in bespoke, Amsale
has dressed a wide variety of celebrities, including
Malin Ackerman and Halle Berry, all from her atelier in New York City.
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a. Amsale’s team handsews Swarovski crystals into
a dazzling one-of-a-kind
accent belt. b. Bride Mary
Senin chose elements of
multiple dresses to create
her one-of-a kind bespoke
gown. c. Amsale sketches
gown options in her
New York City studio.
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b
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The Consultation
The bespoke journey began at Amsale’s New
York City Madison Avenue salon, where Mary
met with the designer and her consultants to
talk about ideas for her dress. Amsale says this is her
favorite part of the process: having a conversation
with the bride about the kind of celebration she’s
having and how she wants to look on her wedding
day, whether it’s classic or high fashion. “The goal
is to try to capture a bride’s vision,” Amsale says.
The designer recommends keeping an open mind
during the initial stages: “I give them possibilities,”
she says, always keeping fit and proportion in mind
to choose the most figure-flattering style. “At least
initially, experimenting with a few things is a good
idea.” During Mary’s visit, Amsale and her team
talked to the bride about the details she preferred
among the different dresses in the designer’s collection. After trying on about a dozen gowns, they
arrived at the perfect combination for Mary: a
dropped-waist bodice in ruched silk taffeta with a
hand-draped sweetheart neckline that accentuated
her shape, and a dramatic full A-line skirt with
hand-sewn rose appliqués in silk taffeta and organza.
“The bodice was very flattering on her; it had that
fitted feeling she wanted, and the bottom was more
elaborate with texture, but in an understated way,”
Amsale says. “Putting those two together worked
really well with Mary’s proportions.”
c
38 W E D D I N G S B Y T H E R I T Z - C A R LT O N
a and b. Amsale consultant
Emily Leu spends time with the
bride, helping her to find the
shape, fabric and details that
most suit her tastes. c. Detailed
measurements are taken
which will form the basis of an
individualized dress pattern.
d. Mary tries on the
completed muslin
gown; adjustments
are made to ensure
the perfect fit.
2
The Muslin Fitting
For her first fitting at Amsale, Mary tried
on a muslin, a replica of the soon-to-be
bespoke dress made in a loosely woven
cotton fabric that was tailored to her exact measurements. This step is unique to the bespoke
process, in that the wedding gown is truly one
of a kind and created to the bride’s precise specifications. During the muslin fitting, Mary and
Amsale’s design team discussed any changes that
should be made to the dress, whether the waist
needed to be lowered or the neckline needed to
be adjusted. Once any alternations are made, the
patternmaker takes the muslin apart and uses
the pattern for the actual dress. When the dress
is transferred from muslin to the gown’s fabric,
it is fitted even more.
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a
b
c
c. Newly married, Mary and Cliff
Bennett walk down the aisle of the
Immaculate Conception Catholic
Church in Washington, D.C.,
before heading to their reception
at The Ritz-Carlton Georgetown,
Washington, D.C..
Hair and makeup
by Vassilis Kokkinidis.
3
a. Amsale
assures that
every last detail
is in place.
b. Mary tries on
her special gown
at the salon,
and any last
adjustments are
noted.
40 W E D D I N G S B Y T H E R I T Z - C A R LT O N
The Final Fitting
Because Mary’s gown was designed to her
exact size and height, the dress already fit
her perfectly, but the final fitting is the time
to make any last adjustments. “The goal is to get
it right until it’s perfect at the end,” Amsale says,
adding that details also make all the difference. To
that end, once the fit was flawless, Amsale added a
grosgrain ribbon sash with crystal appliqués and an
origami bow closure — a look that dazzled against
the dreamy white gown. The final fitting is also the
time to discuss what shoes, veil and jewelry will
work best with the dress; in Mary’s case, a classic
chignon, strappy gold heels and dangling pearl
earrings. After months of collaboration and craftsmanship (most brides start the bespoke process
a year in advance), Mary was enamored with her
one-of-a-kind choice.
And of course, on the big day, Mary’s dress was
the showstopper she desired. She said her new husband, Cliff Bennett, said the dress “took his breath
away. He kept saying how very lucky he felt, and that
he was a ‘smart man’ for having asked me to marry
him,” Mary says. “He also joked on the honeymoon
that he wanted me to put the dress back on!”
After months of unforgettable fittings and finessing, Mary says that was the exact reaction she had
hoped for from her groom — not to mention couture
memories to last well beyond the honeymoon. “It’s
a pretty spectacular experience,” she says of the
journey with Amsale. “Every time I see pictures of
the dress, I love it even more.”
PHOTOGRAPH (THIS PAGE) BY PAUL MORSE (WWW.PAULMORSE.COM)
W E D D I N G S B Y T H E R I T Z - C A R LT O N
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