Untitled - Dresden
Transcription
Untitled - Dresden
Dresden »I was able to inhale beauty ...« Erich Kästner »When I was a young boy« »If it just so happens that I not only recognise what is bad and ugly, but also know what is beautiful, it is because I had the good fortune to grow up in Dresden. I did not have to learn about beauty from books, not in school and not at the university. I was able to inhale beauty the way a forester’s children breathe the woodland air. The Catholic Court Church, Georg Bähr’s Frauenkirche, the Zwinger, Pillnitz Palace, the Japanese Palace, the Jüdenhof, Dinglinger’s House, Rampische Strasse with its Baroque facades, the Renaissance oriels in SchlossStrasse, the Cosel Palace, the palace in the Grosser Garten Park with its smaller gentlemen’s houses, and yes, from the Loschwitz Heights, the view of the city’s silhouette with its noble, venerable towers ...« »A baby’s first cry, that is my greatest pleasure.« Annemarie Saul, midwife R ound forms dominate in the delivery room – how appropriate! And pastel shades. Annemarie Saul, head midwife at the Dresden-Friedrichstadt Municipal Hospital, and in this function very much involved in Dresden’s becoming famed as the birth capital of Germany, has sat down for a moment where countless young Dresdeners let out their first cry – but not without leaving the sliding door open just a crack. How many mothers and babies has she looked after to date? She has long since lost count. What is certain though, is that she has been working as a midwife for almost 40 years. Or should we not properly speak of a calling? »I came to Dresden for family reasons,« she says, with a sparkle in her blue eyes. For love, to be precise. In the meantime, she is 60, a mother of two grown-up children and a passionate resident of the Elbe slopes. »When I approach the city again after a journey, I have the feeling that I am eagerly awaited.« And she certainly is! By her family, by her friends, by her colleagues at the hospital. And by the mothers she cares for. 2 ■ Contrary to the trends in other German cities, Dresden is growing – having gained 5,500 citizens each year on average since 2002. That is a good sign for the city, and proof that its residents have confidence in the future. ■ It is not only thanks to inward migration that the population of the Saxon capital has surpassed the half-million mark. In 2006, for the first time in 40 years, the city recorded more births than deaths. ■ And everything possible is being done to promote this welcome circumstance. The numbers of nursery and kindergarten places are increasing. There are presently 1 Georg Arnhold Baths 2 Sports School Centre 4 In the Grosser Garten Park 5 Dresden Zoo 269 day-care facilities, the majority under independent management, looking after a total of almost 23,000 children. ■ 179 schools, of which 43 are independently run, cover a broad spectrum of educational approaches. They include, for example, the Dresden International School, the Sports School Centre, the Palucca School or the Kreuzgymnasium, the home of the famous Kreuzchor choir. ■ 38 children’s and youth centres, a miniature railway and the children’s tram »Lottchen«, the Youth&Art School, the municipal libraries with their 21 district branches, the zoo, 380 sports clubs, 3 German Hygiene Museum 6 »Zoo resident« 7 Sport is fun 8 Prohlis Youth Centre 10 Kleinzschachwitz day-care centre 11 Park railway Family 9 Dance group 16 swimming baths, the ice sports hall and countless other facilities provide active leisure opportunities not only for the younger generations. ■ The search for accommodation is no problem on the Dresden housing market, whether with or without a family. Villas with views of the Elbe, renovated apartments in historical residential districts, homes surrounded by green, former farmhouses, or favourably priced flats on a modern high-rise housing estate – there is something to cater for every taste and preference. »I see myself as a dancer who makes music.« Christof Paul, dancer T wo souls, alas! reside within my breast! For 21-year-old Christof Paul, too, Goethe’s famous sigh holds special meaning. After ten years of study at the world-renowned College of Dance founded by Gret Palucca in 1925, he can proudly present his graduation diploma. That the choreography and stage design for his examination performance at the Hellerau Festival Hall were his own work is simply one of the generally accepted rules. But the fact that he also wrote and recorded the music himself is certainly out of the ordinary. His first engagement as a dancer took him to Seoul, leaving his Dresden band »Mountain High« to eagerly await the return of its guitarist. What is it like to wander between two artistic worlds? How do you do both talents justice? One thing is sure: Dance and music are universal languages. And Christof Paul is fluent in both! The blending of dance and music into a single whole is a challenge which demands courage, strength and perseverance. Christof Paul gazes over the city and its river from the Loschwitz Heights. »The Elbe is full of positive energy for Dresden – and thus also for me.« 4 ■ It is one of the most famous opera houses in Germany: The »Saxon State Opera«, which takes its popular name from its architect Gottfried Semper, boasts an average attendance rate of more than 90 per cent. Tickets are thus best reserved well in advance. ■ Names such as the Dresden Kreuzchor choir, the Staatskapelle orchestra, the Dresden Philharmonic and the Dresden Music Festival are worldwide symbols for the rich scope of musical excellence in Dresden. ■ The stages of the Staatsschauspiel theatre present a broad spectrum of dramatic literature. Lighter 1 Music Festival 2 Erich Kästner monument here. Fyodor Dostoevsky completed the novel »The Demons« in Dresden, and philosopher Arthur Schopenhauer his central work »The World as Will and Representation«. ■ Impressive contemporary music and dance culture can be experienced in the European Centre of the Arts in Hellerau, not least with »The Forsythe Company«. Dancer and choreographer William Forsythe is recognised internationally for his reorientation of classical ballet and is now also at home in Dresden. musical theatre is the domain of the State Operetta, with its repertoire of operetta, musicals and comic opera. Venues such as the »Societätstheater«, the Hellerau Festival Hall and the »projekttheater« are leading addresses for the free dance and theatre scene. ■ Dresden-born author Erich Kästner has been devoted an innovative literature museum, the world’s first »mobile interactive micromuseum«. ■ Friedrich Schiller wrote his »Ode to Joy« in Dresden. The city was also a centre of literary Romanticism. Heinrich von Kleist and E.T.A. Hoffmann were active 3 Hellerau Festival Hall Culture 4 Semper Opera House 7 Theatre 5 Friedrich Schiller 8 Ballet 6 Kreuzchor choir 9 Operetta »Such community involvement impresses me time and again.« Wolfgang Gahn, museologist A n office on the first floor of the City Museum in the so-called »Landhaus«. When Wolfgang Gahn looks out his window, he can see the city of today. A glance down at his monitor, on the other hand, could perhaps reveal the chest of the Dresden toolsmiths’ guild dating from 1595. Today meets yesterday. Wolfgang Gahn is deputy head of collections for the museums of the City of Dresden, and as such responsible for the exhibitions and storage in seven individual museums. Preparations for special exhibitions, acquisition committee meetings, database management – those are just a few of the tasks for a graduate museologist. He is well aware of the praise due to the countless local citizens who are exploring the history of their city in societies and associations. Some 90 per cent of his exhibits are donations and bequests – from a complete locksmith’s workshop to board games from the GDR years. »Such community involvement, and the resultant diversity of our exhibits, impresses me time and again.« The festivities to mark Dresden’s 800-year jubilee are history – but the bustle of visitors in the foyer of the City Museum is testimony to continued interest. Today hand in hand with yesterday. 6 ■ »Acta sunt hec Dresdene – This has come to pass in Dresden in the year 1206.« This sentence was placed under an arbitration judgement by Margrave Dietrich of Meissen, and thereby almost incidentally represented the start of the documented history of the city of Dresden. ■ Since then, that little Elbe settlement, whose name could be translated as meaning »People living in or near the forest«, has evolved into a major European city. Initially a merchants’ settlement and seat of margraves, then electoral and royal residence, and now state capital of Saxony. 1 Canaletto panorama 4 Augustus the Strong ■ »Altendresden« was granted town privileges in 1403, and a mere 150 years later Dresden became the capital and royal residence of the Protestant Electorate of Saxony. ■ In 1694, Augustus the Strong came to power as Elector Friedrich August I. His reign heralded an age of prosperity, bringing Dresden economic upswing, magnificent urban development and cultural profile. Dresden benefits to this day from the aura of a former royal city. ■ The last Saxon king abdicated in 1918. ■ On 13/14 February 1945, Dresden experienced the most 2 Women clearing the ruins 5 Book of privileges of 1584 3 Jewish Cemetery 6 Royal Palace 7 Procession of Princes History 8 After 13th February 1945 9 Zwinger devastating destruction in its history: Up to 25,000 people lost their lives in the Allied bombing raids, and 15 km2 of the city were reduced to ashes. ■ Reconstruction began already in 1945 – the Dresden Zwinger was one of the first historical buildings completed. During the GDR years, Dresden was a regional administrative centre, and after the first free elections in 1990 became the capital of the Free State of Saxony. It is today one of the German cities with the best future prospects. »Elbe Palaces on the port side.« Rainer Fichte, paddle-steamer captain A lmost timidly at first, but then with its full power: The steam whistle signals the departure of the »Wehlen« from the quayside under the Brühl Terrace. With a steady left hand, captain Rainer Fichte guides his pride and joy out into the middle of the river. Cameras are clicking on the deck. »Ideal conditions on the river today!« he says, as he waves across to the skipper of the Johannstadt ferry. The echosounder announces 1.50 metres of Elbe water below the keel – an important instrument on board, but still nowhere near as impressive as the shiny brass speaking tube. Rainer Fichte remembers the times when it was coal rather than oil which powered the paddle-steamers. Meissen instead of Montevideo? He has never missed the high seas. The Elbe Palaces are to be seen above on the port side, while to starboard kites are flying over the meadows. Rainer Fichte knows every inch of the route. We have now reached the »Blue Wonder« bridge. The captain pulls the telegraph back to slow and surveys the river without which Dresden would be unthinkable. After turning midstream, the return journey is somewhat faster – with the current from astern. 8 ■ With 62 per cent of its territory devoted to forests and green areas, Dresden is one of the greenest cities in Europe. The city and nature have for centuries coexisted in peaceful harmony. ■ The landscapes of the Elbe valley have remained characteristic to this day. The sweeping bend of the river, the meadows and vineyards, the bridges, palaces and towers are indivisible from our perception of Dresden. ■ What Canaletto once captured on his canvass, is today photographed by millions of tourists – what Johann Gottfried Herder once titled »Florence of the North«, is 1 Albrechtsberg Palace 3 Wachwitz Rhododendron Garden today a cultural magnet of European renown. ■ The largest and oldest paddlesteamer fleet in the world sets out from Dresden. Journeys run downstream to the picturesque town of Meissen and beyond, or upstream into the Saxon Switzerland. ■ The River Elbe flows through Dresden over a length of 30 kilometres. The quality of its waters has improved dramatically over the past few years. Even salmon and beavers are at home in Dresden once more. ■ Since the floods of 2002, flood protection along the river has been designed for a water level of nine metres. By comparison, the normal river level is around two metres. Several million euros have been invested. ■ Experience nature in the heart of the city – in Dresden, that is not a vision, but daily reality: Cycling along the Elbe, jogging in the Grosser Garten Park and walks in the Dresdner Heide forests. ■ Dresden’s famous sights include also numerous palaces and gardens, witness to long traditions in garden and landscape architecture. In Pillnitz, for example, where an over 230-year-old camellia is just one of the attractions. 2 »Blue Wonder« bridge 4 Paddle-steamer 5 Elbe Cycle Path 6 Grey geese on the river banks 7 Pillnitz Palace Elbe valley 8 Elbe valley panorama 9 Sheep on the Elbe meadows 10 Vineyard church »The Neustadt district is the place where I belong.« Dorle Söhnen, landlady E ven the plain light on the house at Böhmische Strasse 34 must be considered a cultural asset. After all, the building calls itself a »house of art«. In addition to one of the cafés typical for the Outer Neustadt district, it holds something very special under its roof: Six rooms – reserved primarily for international artists – built into the attic, and the gallery of the Kunsthaus Raskolnikow conveniently on the first floor below. Born in Kork near Kehl am Rhein in 1955, Dorle Söhnen actually had quite different plans after training as a teacher, but then followed her husband to Dresden. »I fell in love with the city immediately,« she says in her soft but nevertheless emphatic Baden manner. It was more by coincidence that she took on first the renovation, and then management of the house. In the meantime, it can be seen as a passion that she has been serving culinary and artistic tastes for over ten years now. And then there is her love for the Neustadt district, which most city guides refer to globally as a centre of alternative culture. »That doesn’t do the district justice,« says Dorle Söhnen. »It is for me far too general a term to characterise the structure and diversity of this very special part of Dresden.« 10 ■ Dresden offers not just a cultural scene, but also lively scene culture. But where exactly is this Dresden »scene« to be found? In the old city, in the Neustadt district – or somewhere quite different? ■ Does »Pfund’s Dairy«, the supposedly most beautiful dairy shop in the world belong to the scene? The elegant atmosphere with lavishly handpainted tiles is not only a magnet for tourists. Locals, too, come to taste the cheese delicacies and to discuss, for example, the latest news from the »Dresden scene«. ■ Remaining in the Outer Neustadt district: Nowhere else is 1 Night skating Dresden so colourful, so international and urban. A place to meet punks and bankers, theatre folk and lawyers, journalists and architects. And countless young mothers, for the Neustadt district (with its surprisingly quiet and green courtyard oases) is Dresden’s youngest district, home to more children than any other part of the city. There is always a party or live music somewhere, seven days a week. It goes almost without saying that the Neustadt district also possesses the most bars and the greatest diversity of speciality restaurants in Dresden. ■ Is that the whole »Dresden 2 Weisse Gasse bar mile 3 Street festival Local scene 4 Neustadt boutique 7 Beer garden 5 International Dresden 8 Kunsthof Passage 6 Scheune Café 9 Pfund‘s Dairy scene«? Far from it! The old city is also building up its reputation, with its bar mile, the Semper Opera Ball, night skating and many other events. ■ Mention must naturally be made of the 14 student clubs – the best-known being the Bärenzwinger – and a sheer endless list of the hippest party locations. ■ If the term »scene« is placed in a wider context, then there is certainly no ignoring the Blasewitz and Loschwitz scene. Or the still largely undiscovered rural scene – after all, Dresden counts some 80 former village centres within its boundaries. »I was immediately captivated. And that has not changed to this day.« Prof. Dr. Wilhelm Hanel, managing director A large black-and-white photo hangs framed on the wall: The legendary »152«, the first German jet passenger airliner, which was designed and built at VEB Flugzeugwerke Dresden in the late 1950s. In the bottom corner of the poster, two words form a self-confident logo in bold blue letters: »IMA Dresden«. What better way to evoke industrial tradition? When Wilhelm Hanel came to Dresden from Neuruppin to study applied mechanics in 1966, the scars of war were still omnipresent. »The area between the railway station and City Hall was a single stretch of wasteland,« he recalls. He was nevertheless immediately captivated – by the local people, by their will to rebuild, and by Dresden’s art and culture. »I have always been an avid supporter of the Staatskapelle orchestra,« says Wilhelm Hanel, whose job as managing director of the materials research company IMA Dresden is more concerned with hard facts. One of its tasks is to develop and implement tailored test procedures for all kinds of materials and components – the contributions to the world’s largest-ever fatigue tests on the Airbus A380-800 have been one of the greatest challenges in the company’s history. And that history would almost certainly have taken a different turn without the number »152«. 12 ■ Over the past few years, Dresden has shown itself to be one of the strongest and most dynamic economic locations in Germany. The city has no municipal debts to service, and tops various growth and development rankings. The basis for this economic success: The close local networking of research and industry. ■ 1,500 companies with more than 48,000 employees make Dresden the largest microelectronics and ICT cluster in Europe. »Silicon Saxony« unites many of the most renowned names in the branch: GLOBALFOUNDRIES and Infineon, as well as many innovative emerging 1 Infineon companies, such as X-Fab or Novaled. In total, more than 17 billion euros have been invested in these fields in Dresden since the 1990s. ■ Dresden places a particular focus on the life sciences, with more than 60 corresponding companies and research facilities. Many of them are partners within the »biosaxony« network, an association founded to promote and market regional life science competence. ■ New products are nowadays decisively dependent on the development of new materials. More than 1,500 materials researchers are already devoting their know-how to this process in Dresden, 2 Jehmlich Orgelbau 3 Globalfoundries Economy 4 Elbe Flugzeugwerke 6 Novaled 5 VEM Sachsenwerk 7 GlaxoSmithKline Biologicals with more than 100 companies and 40 research institutes active in nanotechnology alone. ■ Further cornerstones of the economy in Dresden are mechanical and plant engineering, aircraft and automobile manufacturing, printing, the food and drinks industry and the most varied creative professions. 8 VW transparent factory »It gives me pleasure to create new worlds.« Sarah Leimcke, sculptor and artist N o sandstone blocks in the yard, and no smell of oil paints on the stairs. But even so, this is the right place to meet a young artist who has been trained in sculpture at the Dresden Academy of Fine Arts and is now a master pupil there. May we introduce: Sarah Leimcke. »It is fascinating, how blurred the boundaries are between reality and the unreal,« she says, while sequences from one of her installations are to be seen on the monitor. An amazed look through a microscope reveals a world teeming with humans and insects, equal in both their dimensions and motions. Sarah Leimcke smiles enigmatically. At her cradle, back in 1979, no-one would ever have imagined her later being captivated by Musca domestica, the common housefly. But it is no surprise that she has devoted herself to art. Her parents have always supported her ambitions. Today, Sarah Leimcke plays with the sound of organ pipes using steam, fills whole rooms with her art, and has created a giant fly, 4 by 5 metres in size. In Dresden, she says, there is a good chance that people will take note of the specialness in her work. Playful enthusiasm as artistic stimulation, a love of experiment as the drive behind creativity? But of course: In the Baroque age, too, this was the source of inspiration. 14 ■ Johann Melchior Dinglinger’s »Court of the Grand Mogul«, the priceless ivory frigate and a cherry stone engraved with 186 faces are just three of the unique masterpieces in the Green Vault, one of the finest treasure museums in Europe. ■ Raphael’s »Sistine Madonna« with the famous angels, works by Titian, Rembrandt and Vermeer, by Dürer and Cranach, and naturally also Canaletto’s famous views of Old Dresden await visitors to the Old Masters Picture Gallery. The New Masters Gallery, on the other hand, presents the art of Caspar David Friedrich, Ludwig Richer, the »Brücke« 1 Fama atop the Academy of Art 2 Albrecht Dürer group, Max Liebermann and Otto Dix. ■ Among the total of 44 museums in Dresden are exceptional collections such as the Cabinet of Prints and Drawings and the Coin Collection, the Porcelain Collection and the Mathematical-Physical Salon. No less remarkable are the exhibitions of the German Hygiene Museum and the Military History Museum. ■ Dresden has always been a source of inspiration. Well on 600 artists have their studios in the city. ■ The city is rich in artistic fountains and sculptures from all epochs – particularly noteworthy: the »Golden Horseman«, an equestrian statue of Augustus the Strong, or A.R. Penck’s figure on the Art’otel. ■ Zwinger, Royal Palace, the Elbe Palaces, churches and countless further architectural gems are inherent to the aura of historical Dresden. The city lists a total of 13,000 cultural monuments, and eight whole districts protected under general preservation orders. ■ Modern architecture is encountered in stimulating juxtaposition to historical heritage. One of the most renowned examples is the New Dresden Synagogue. 3 New Dresden Synagogue 4 Karl Schmidt-Rottluff Art pleasures 5 Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec 6 Sistine Madonna 7 Mozart Fountain 8 Porcelain Collection 10 Zwinger detail 9 Historical Green Vault 11 A. R. Penck 12 Cathedral »In May, Dresden could also be called Dixieland.« Marc Hartmann, musician M arc Hartmann has got used to the long distances to be travelled from Dresden to performance venues in Western Europe. As far as the city itself is concerned, on the other hand, things are different: »I came here in 1994, and was simply taken aback. By the location on the river, by the architecture, by the musical traditions. And by the people.« This positive amazement still holds him under its spell today. Born in Ludwigsburg, his life has always been accompanied by music: Flute, horn and trombone lessons. For his school exams, he specialised in music. The fact that he then studied chemistry, is today a favourite anecdote: »My Swabian background simply demanded that I learn a ‘serious’ profession. But one day, I looked at the layer of dust on my trombone, and felt it was time to shed my laboratory apron.« For which we are thankful. Marc Hartmann is one of the most restless members of the Dresden jazz scene. While still a student at the Carl Maria von Weber College of Music, he joined the »Elb Meadow Ramblers« as singer and trombonist. He founded the »Marc Hartmann Dance Orchestra«, conducts and arranges, plays the sousaphone in the »Top Dog Brass Band« and is constantly on the move between Dresden and his stages. And he is especially looking forward to the next Dixieland Festival – with its venues right on the doorstep. 16 ■ Augustus the Strong established Dresden’s European reputation as a festival city with his extravagant Baroque court festivities, and today’s population is more than happy to continue in this tradition. ■ The Dresden Music Festival and the Dresden Festival of Contemporary Music, the international media art festival CYNETart and the International Festival of Dance all promise cultural pleasure of the highest standing. ■ Somewhat more boisterous events are the International Dixieland Festival or the »Bunte Republik Neustadt« and »Elbhangfest« street festivals. 1 Dresden Christmas market 2 Chess 5 Dixieland Festival The latter is indisputably the most important festival of local culture in the region. In June each year, the Elbe slopes from the »Blue Wonder« bridge in Loschwitz to Pillnitz Palace are transformed into a seven-kilometre long stage. ■ The historical city centre not only provides a fantastic silhouette backdrop for the films and concerts of the Elbe Bank Film Nights, it is also the setting for the annual Dresden City Festival, which regularly attracts some 500,000 visitors. ■ When festive lights, the smell of mulled wine and Christmas music fill the city centre, then it must be time for the Striezelmarkt. The Dresden Christmas market was first mentioned in official documents in 1434, and is thus the oldest in Germany. Named after the famous Dresden Christstollen cake, which was once known as a »Striezel«, its popularity is founded above all on traditional bakery fare and Saxon crafts. ■ Dresden is also in demand as a meeting place for national and international gatherings, for example as host to the Chess Olympiad or the »Kirchentag« of the German Protestant Churches. 3 City Festival 6 Guided city tour 4 Procession of Princes pageant Festivities 8 »Elbhangfest« street festival 7 Dresden Festival of Contemporary Music 10 Wine tasting 9 »Bunte Republik Neustadt« 11 Unity. Dresden. Night »My children are Dresdeners, their language Saxon dialect.« Prof. Dr. Elly M. Tanaka, biochemist T he star of the institute is called »axolotl«. What sounds like a Saxon diminutive, is the name of a Mexican amphibian with the ability to fully regenerate lost appendages. Japanese-American biochemist Elly Tanaka would like to find out why that is so. And whether we humans maybe also possess similar capabilities, which have only been lost in the course of genetic evolution. She has been working at the Centre for Regenerative Therapies in Dresden since 2007. Long corridors, plain offices and laboratories packed with technical equipment. Academic soberness as a contrast to the informal atmosphere which reigns here. All in English, of course. »Dresden is a stressless town,« says Elly Tanaka, a graduate of Harvard who also worked in London before coming to the city. Son Franklin and daughter Hanako were born here. Their favourite pastimes include walks through the local woods, or cycle rides around the Waldpark, close to the institute – and the axolotl. But he can now take a short break from research duties: »Because I always keep one evening a week free,« says Elly Tanaka, »for my violin and our string quartet.« 18 ■ Dresden inventions are known the world over – from the porcelain with the famous blue swords and the steam locomotive »Saxonia« to the singlelens reflex camera and the portable typewriter, and all manner of everyday products such as coffee filters, tea bags, or toothpaste. ■ Innovative research has continued in the city to this day. Three-dimensional displays, the 300 mm wafer technology and organic LEDs are admirable proof of sustained creativity. ■ Dresden offers a stronger and broader scientific base than any other location in Eastern Germany. That is one of 1 Organic solar cell 2 Single-lens reflex camera the compelling reasons for companies to move here and to invest in the city. ■ The local research infrastructure counts ten universities and colleges, as well as three Max Planck institutes, twelve Fraunhofer institutes and five institutes of the Leibniz Association. ■ Technology transfer is the domain of institutions such as the Dresden Technology Centre, the special knowledge transfer unit of TU Dresden, and many other representatives of the Dresden research landscape. ■ Dresden attracts students and researchers from around the world. They appreciate not only the interesting study opportunities and international atmosphere, but also a stimulating city with a high quality of life. ■ Both industry and the economy benefit from the fertile pool of up-and-coming specialists, and find competent cooperation partners for their research projects. ■ The Saxon capital is an ideal venue for scientific meetings and conferences, with unique programme opportunities. 3 International Congress Centre Science 4 »Long Night of Science« 7 Max Bergmann Centre 5 Organic LED 8 Mouthwash advertising 6 TU Dresden – »University of Excellence« 9 Steam locomotive »Saxonia«, 1839 10 Lecture hall »Eierschecke and Christstollen – the unique Dresden art of baking.« Henry Mueller, master baker T he lovingly decorated window of the bakery casts a magical spell over all those who pass. It is just how Hansel and Gretel must have felt when they suddenly came across the witch’s cottage made of bread, cake and sugar... The sweet aroma wafting from the little shop on the edge of the city is simply irresistible. Of course, a glance behind the scenes immediately reveals that the production of such delicacies has nothing to do with magic and witchcraft. Down-to-earth master baker Henry Mueller quotes an often forgotten virtue to describe the credo of his craft business: »Every day, we do a decent day’s work,« he says, at the same time serving coffee and Eierschecke cake in a side parlour. While palates revel in bakery delights, he pulls out an old photograph, a picture of himself sitting in his pram as a child, already with a traditional baker’s cap on his head, in the middle of his parents’ bakery. Exactly the spot at which he today piles up the newly prepared Christstollen – indisputably Dresden’s most famous Christmas fare, whose precise recipe is a closely guarded secret. That it remains so is another task entrusted to Henry Mueller, as head of the Dresden bakers’ guild. 20 ■ Three words basically suffice to sum up a first impression of the people of Dresden: They are imaginative, pragmatic and outgoing. In this city, just asking for directions on the street can quite easily evolve into a personal guided tour. ■ Firm local roots are typical for the Dresden character. The most stimulating discoveries, after all, lie practically on the doorstep. There are few households in the city without an impressive library of Dresden literature. ■ At the same time, however, Dresdeners are cosmopolitan and enquiring. They are renowned for their urge to 1 Balloon glow on the Elbe banks 4 Beach volleyball 2 Brühl Terrace travel and to discover the world, but no less for their pleasure on returning home. ■ In the summer, the Elbe meadows are a popular meeting place. Locals and their guests stream to the riverside with blankets and picnic baskets, to listen in on the concerts of the Elbe Bank Film Nights, or simply to enjoy the views of the historical city centre. ■ Dresden has plenty on offer to delight the palate. Alongside the Dresden Christstollen, its famous Christmas cake, one delicacy which belongs on every gourmet list is »Dresden Eierschecke«, a cake specia- lity topped with lightly whipped egg, butter, sugar and vanilla cream. For those who prefer heartier fare, marinated braised beef and potato soup are just two of the favourites. ■ The people of Dresden – and no less so those who have »only« moved here – are avidly committed to promoting their city. They honour the achievements of previous generations, and are passionate for their cause in debates on future developments. But at the end of the day, there is one point on which agreement is always reached: Dresden is the most beautiful place you can imagine! 3 Riverside beach bar 5 Elbe Bank Film Nights 6 Dynamo fan block Lifestyle 8 »Eierschecke« cake 7 Picnic in Pillnitz 9 Clubbing 10 Garden restaurant »The Frauenkirche was my childhood playground.« Ursula Elsner, contemporary witness T he photograph shows the Baroque townhouse at Neumarkt 3 – opposite the Frauenkirche. Ursula Elsner’s finger stops over an open window on the third floor. »That is Ida looking out. Our cleaning lady.« Born in 1930, Ursula Elsner knows enough about those times to fill a book. »And my book is nearly finished,« she says, pointing to the computer on which she is writing her memories and recollections – lest it all be forgotten. Her father, as church inspector, was responsible for the accounts of the Frauenkirche. It was through him that she spent so much time in the church as a girl. From the catacombs to the dome lantern. She was startled sometimes by the bats, collected gold leaf which had floated down from the altar during its restoration, and gazed dreamily at the red velvet-covered wedding chairs. »The bombing struck this carefree childhood with full vengeance.« Ursula Elsner was lucky enough to survive the firestorm of 13th February 1945, together with her mother and brother. But their home on Neumarkt, their whole possessions – lost. She saw the house collapse. The Frauenkirche was still standing at that time. It was only on the morning of 15th February that its walls succumbed. But now it is standing once more: A wonder. For Dresden and for Ursula Elsner. 22 ■ The Dresden Frauenkirche, George Bähr’s masterpiece, already amazed builders and architects almost 270 years ago with its bold dome construction, and immediately captured the hearts of the local people. On 15th February 1945, two days after the devastating bombing raids on Dresden, its burnt-out shell collapsed. ■ Two fragments of the walls and 22,000 cubic metres of rubble were all that remained – in warning remembrance of the destruction of Dresden, the terrors of war and the victims of the bombing. On 13th February 1990, however, the 1 Neumarkt today »Call from Dresden« was published, to initiate reconstruction of the Dresden Frauenkirche. ■ The reconstruction of the church became a matter dear to the hearts of people also far beyond the boundaries of Dresden itself. Associations of supporters were formed around the world, and friends everywhere took collecting tins and chequebooks into their hands. Donations totalling more than 100 million euros were raised in this way, almost two-thirds of the building costs. ■ The common goal was achieved in just 12 years: First the enormous mound of rubble was 2 Consecration of the church 5 Remembrance on 13th February 6 Wedding ceremony 3 Dome cross cleared, and almost 100,000 stones were recovered for use in reconstruction. The crypt was consecrated in 1996, and in 2000, Dresden received a new dome cross as a gift from Great Britain. In 2003, more than 40,000 people celebrated the first sounding of the new bells, and in 2004, at last, the Frauenkirche was crowned with the placing of the final cross. Following completion of the interior, the reconstructed Frauenkirche was consecrated in October 2005. ■ In the meantime, it has become also a magnet for more than two million tourists every year. 4 Consecration of the bells 7 Panorama Frauenkirche 9 Crypt 8 Luther Monument 10 Ruins after 1945 11 Placing of the cross www.dresden.de Acknowledgements Published by: Landeshauptstadt Dresden The Mayor The Mayor’s Office Public Relations Telephone (+49 351) 4 88 23 90 or (+49 351) 4 88 26 81 Telefax (+49 351) 4 88 22 38 [email protected] Postfach 12 00 20 01001 Dresden www.dresden.de Editorial concept: Press and Public Relations Office Portraits: Holger Oertel, texts · Robert Michael, photos Photos: Cover: Sylvio Dittrich · Page 1: Archiv L&P, Sylvio Dittrich Page 2: Fotolia, Robert Michael · Page 3: Nos. 1, 3, 7, 9 Jörg Oesen, Nos. 2, 8, 10 LH Dresden, Nos. 4, 5, 11 Sylvio Dittrich, No. 6 Fotolia · Page 4: Robert Michael · Page 5: Nos. 1, 3, 4, 6, 8 Sylvio Dittrich, No. 2 Panther Media, No. 5 Archiv L&P, No. 7 Hans-Ludwig Böhme, Staatsschauspiel Dresden, No. 9 Kai-Uwe Schulte-Bunert, Staatsoperette Dresden · Page 6: Robert Michael · Page 7: No. 1 Jürgen Karpinski, Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister, Staatliche Kunstsammlungen Dresden, No. 2 Stadtmuseum Dresden, Kurt Schaarschuch, Nos. 3, 6, 9 Sylvio Dittrich, No. 4 Fotolia, No. 5 Stadtarchiv Dresden, Nos. 7, 8 Archiv L&P · Page 8: Robert Michael · Page 9: Nos. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 10 Sylvio Dittrich, No. 6 Archiv L&P, Nos. 7, 8, 9 Fotolia · Page 10: Robert Michael · Page 11: No. 1 Bettina Niesar, Nos. 2, 3, 4, 6, 7, 9 Sylvio Dittrich, No. 5 Hainer Michael, No. 8 DWT Page 12: Von Ardenne Anlagentechnik GmbH, Robert Michael Page 13: No. 1 Infineon, No. 2 Jehmlich Orgelbau, No. 3 GLOBALFOUNDRIES, No. 4 Elbe Flugzeugwerke, No. 5 VEM Sachsenwerk, Nos. 6, 8 Rainer Weisflog, No. 7 GlaxoSmithKline Biologicals · Page 14: Robert Michael Page 15: No. 1 Archiv L&P, No. 2 Herbert Boswank, Kupferstich-Kabinett, Staatliche Kunstsammlungen Dresden, No. 4 Jürgen Karpinski, Gemäldegalerie Neue Meister, Staatliche Kunstsammlungen Dresden, No. 5 Herbert Boswank, Kupferstich-Kabinett, Staatliche Kunstsammlungen Dresden, No. 6 Elke Estel/Hans-Peter Klut, Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister, Staatliche Kunstsammlungen Dresden, No. 8 Jürgen Karpinski, Porzellansammlung, Staatliche Kunstsammlungen Dresden, No. 10 Fotolia, Nos. 3, 7, 9, 11, 12 Sylvio Dittrich · Page 16: Robert Michael · Page 17: No. 1 Fotolia, Nos. 3, 5, 6, 7, 8, 10, 11 Sylvio Dittrich, No. 2 LH Dresden, No. 4 Panther Media, No. 9 Hainer Michael Page 18: Jürgen Lösel, Robert Michael · Page 19: No. 1 Fraunhofer-Institut für Photonische Mikrosysteme, Nos. 2, 3, 4, 7, 9, 10 Sylvio Dittrich, No. 5 TU Dresden, No. 6 Rainer Weisflog, No. 8 Archiv L&P · Page 20: Panther Media, Robert Michael · Page 21: No. 1 Panther Media, Nos. 2, 3, 4, 5, 9, 10 Sylvio Dittrich, No. 6 Frank Dehlis, No. 7 DWT, No. 8 Dr. Igor Semechin · Page 22: Privat (Ursula Elsner), Robert Michael Page 23: Nos. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 9, 10, 11 Sylvio Dittrich, No. 8 Fotolia Artwork and design: Löser & Partner Werbeagentur, Dresden Production: Stoba-Druck GmbH 2nd (updated) edition, May 2013 (content as valid on May 2012) No access for electronically signed and encrypted documents. Applications or pleadings submitted electronically, in particular via e-mail, are not effective in law. This information material is a public relations project of the City of Dresden. It may not be used for purposes of election canvassing. Parties are permitted, however, to use its contents to inform their members. Dresden