street snap - JAPAN QUALITY REVIEW

10
2011
OCTOBER
vol. 06
FREE
JQR FASHION
Dressing Up
QR Quality Review
EDOYA Hand-made Clothes Brush
Special Order Besuatsurae Brushes
［FEATURE］
Yoshino, Koya and Kumano
NEW
Sawada’s
Hiroshi
Theory of Cafe Evolution
We asked smartly dressed
passersby how they are
feeling right now.
STREET SNAP
Walking
the Kii
Sankeimichi
Pilgrimage
Routes
eng.jqrmag.com
jqrmag.com
C O N T E N T S
October 2011(distributed 9.7, 2011)
05
07
This Month’s New Opening
Toraya Café, Aoyama Shop
JQR REPORT
Photograph /Satoru Naito
Following 3/11
The Great East Japan Earthquake: a volunteer’s Disaster
Reconstruction Report
20
We asked smartly dressed
passersby how they are
feeling right now.
Sawada’s
NEW
Hiroshi
09 Theory of Cafe Evolution
STREET SNAP
10 Yoshino, Koya and Kumano
Walking
the Kii
Sankeimichi
Pilgrimage
Routes
18
22
Dressing Up
Continuing serial［Essay］
41
Japan and Me:
The Modern is in the
Traditional
Francoise Morechand,
Essayist
Praise of Fine Sake
44 InJunai
QUALITY REVIEW
EDOYA Hand-made
Clothes Brush
Special Order
Besuatsurae Brushes
Editorial Committee
JQR FASHION
Shikomi
Pure Love Brew Junmai Sharaku
Publisher and Editor-in-Chief
Jun Shinozuka
Syozou Izuishi ［Fashion Critic］
JQR editorial department
Editors
Jun Nakaki
Tanehide Egami ［Executive Producer, Ecole De Cuisine Egami］
Kyoko Ohtsu
Shinichi Hanawa ［Joint Representative Director Ramsar Network Japan］
2-1-14 Sarugakucho, Chiyoda-ku
Tokyo 101-0064
03-3518-2270
Maki Taguchi
Ryuichiro Matsubara ［Economist, Professor at the University of Tokyo］
Dai Furusawa
Humio Maruyama ［High-Tech Industry Innovation Agency］
Fashion Director
Souta Yamaguchi
Yumi Yamaguchi ［Travel Writer］
Web Director
Tokuhisa Maruyama
Additional Editing
High-Tech Industry Innovation Agency
Designer
Wakako Kawasaki
Planning
Integral Corp.
Masaya Mutoh (No Design)
Editing
Digital Lights Inc.
Akari Sugawara(No Design)
Translation
Manabiya Inc.
JQR advertising department
2-1-14 Sarugakucho, Chiyoda-ku
Tokyo 101-0064
03-3518-4488
eng.jqrmag.com
2 011 October
03
This Month’s New Opening
Toraya Café, Aoyama Shop
Photography/Kohji Kanatani, Text/Yoko Yagi
MENU
URL
東京ドームシティ
小石川橋
後楽園
東京ドーム
ホテル
壱岐坂上
駅
道橋
線水
三田
都営
壱岐坂下
本郷二
新壱岐
坂
慶應義塾大学
三田二丁目
秋葉
原→
東海
庭のホテル 東京
三崎町
湯の滝
田町駅西口
Azuki bean tea kanten jelly with two-tone bean paste sauce (￥630).
田町駅
An adult’s
り dessert. Kanten (agar) is used to make unsweetened azuki
通
田
bean
bean
桜 tea into jelly, which is topped with red and white azuki
幹線
paste sauces flavored with rum.
道新
MAP
中山峠
日本料理 晴山
外堀通り
神田川
定山源泉
公園
三田三丁目
A1出口
東口
http://www.toraya-cafe.co.jp/
長寿と健康の
足つぼの湯
三田
慶大正門前
三田四丁目
水道橋
←新宿
日比谷通
り
東京ドーム
岩戸観音堂
↑巣鴨
小石川
後楽園
定山渓観光協会
Seats 30. The simple yet modern interior has chairs and sofas
coordinated in basic white and a green shade suggestive of green
tea. The Aoyama shop has a morning menu and desserts not
available at other Toraya Cafes.
MENU
通り
白山
Akasaka Imperial Palace Aoyama
Building
To Shibuya
Police box
Aoyama-itchome Station
To Aksakamitsuke
Aoyama-Dori
Akasaka
Post Office
Toraya Café, Aoyama Shop
B1F West Wing,
Shin-Aoyama Building Honda
Building
To Roppongi
To Nishi Azabu
慶應義塾大学
A Third Toraya Cafe
Opens
慶大正門前
Toraya Café is a new style of café
developed by Toraya, one of the oldest
makers of traditional confectionery in
Japan. Food coordinator Tomoko Nagao
had a free hand in combining Westernstyle ingredients with the bean paste that
is at the core of Toraya’s traditional
confectionery line, and opened up a whole
new world of sweet delights.
The Aoyama shop opened in June, and
unlike the Omotesando Hills and Roppongi
Hills shops, offers the first breakfast
morning menu from Toraya. Dishes such
as split rolls and toast with the popular
sweet-bean paste, which goes well with
04
2 011 October
The tang of cream cheese goes perfectly with the sweet red bean
paste in this split roll (￥600). This set comes with a choice of coffee,
black tea, or hojicha green tea (the jars of bean paste are sold
separately).
日比谷通
り
Aoyama-itchome Station on the Tokyo Metro and Toei subway lines
connects directly with Shin-Aoyama Building (Aoyama Twin Towers).
bread much like jam does, have been
gaining popularity with morning commuters
三田
grabbing
breakfast on their way to work.
The menu has been thought out with the
shop’s convenient location in a station in
mind; for example, the desserts come in
small portions with accordingly lower
prices, making it easy for passers-by to
have a quick bite, and there is an
extensive range of baked sweets which
apparently there is a demand for from
people on their way somewhere, who are
in sudden need of a small gift to take with
them, .
Whether you are craving something sweet
or just want a treat, a little something from
the Aoyama Shop is deeply satisfying.
Toraya Café Aoyama Shop
West Wing B1F, Shin-Aoyama Bldg
1-1-1 Minami Aoyama, Minato-ku, Tokyo
Tel. 03-5414-0141
Weekdays: 8:00-20:00 (last order 19:30)
Saturdays: 11:00-18:00 (last order 17:30)
Closed Sundays, public holidays and year-end holidays
2 011 October
05
from ISHINOMAKI
The Great East Japan Earthquake:
a volunteer’s Disaster Reconstruction Report
Following 3/11
Article and photos/Christine Lavoie-Gagnon
［NO.3］
The “Daliesque” scenery of Ishinomake has
been transformed
March 11, 2011. Crouched under my kitchen
table to avoid injury from flying dishes and
glasses, I find myself a living witness to the
disaster. At first, a surreal moment, then
confusion, then fear and sadness. Four days
later, I am ankle-deep in mud and my brain
cannot fully register what I am seeing as I
record the aftermath on film. The camera,
meanwhile, cannot capture the jumbled mess
of boats, cars and household items before me
that would otherwise never be found side by
side, the stench of cars on fire, the soldiers
serenely wrapping dead bodies recovered from
the mud, too many to count, all left behind by
the fatal wave, the clanging of the sirens and,
to top it all off, unbearable cold and snow.
Survivor after survivor, the Tohoku tsunami
victims teach me a lesson in life. To my
perplexity, the people want to convey their
misfortune to the world, they want the world to
listen to their stories and diffuse them all over
the globe. Between the tears of sadness and
joy of being alive, they ask for my help. This
task is unimaginably enormous.
It was this call for help that brought me back
to the scene a few days later, this time
together with some rugged individuals wellequipped to help in the clean-up of the mess.
Many more joined us as time went by and we
formed a group determined to be there for the
residents until life in the region could return to
normal, especially in the town of Ishinomaki,
where destruction is the most severe and
Christine Lavoie-Gagnon
06
2 011 October
clean-up efforts are the most arduous. How
many houses have we cleared of mud and
debris? How many damp and moldy floors and
walls have we torn up?
Today, six months after the disaster,
Ishinomaki is beyond recognition. The efforts
of the military and groups of volunteers and
municipalities are omnipresent and the
townscape has transformed from a nauseating
Dali portrait to an urban area undergoing total
reconstruction. The shelter put up at Minato
Elementary School houses only 95 people
now, a far cry from the initial 2000 seeking
refuge immediately after the disaster, and it is
scheduled to close its doors at the end of
September. Most of the tsunami victims have
been relocated to temporary housing, live on
the second floor of their own homes, or rent
small apartments in town.
Nevertheless, the bulk of the work is yet to
come. We have to rebuild. The town and the
houses, needless to say, but also the
companies, the factories, the job market… all
have been laid to waste by the tsunami.
Ishinomaki, which was already feeling the
effects of the aging of its population, has lost
its youth, and a large portion of the town along
the coast will never be rebuilt because the soil
sags as much as 80cm at some spots.
Uncertainty abounds.
The emergency now is not mud or clean-up,
but rather reorganization, motivation and hope.
Originally from Quebec, Canada, she has lived in Japan for over 17 years and manages a
communications firm in Tokyo. However, she is most likely to be found in Ishinomaki with NADIA, an
organization she founded to aid the victims of the disaster.
2 011 October
07
Hiroshi Sawada’s
Theory of Cafe Vol.1
Photography/Kohji Kanatani, Text/Yoko Yagi
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COMPANY, in
Beautiful Latte Art
is Flavor Guaranteed
Latte!
When most people hear the term “latte
sporting prowess, cultural talents and,
art,” they probably imagine a picture
of course, coffee skills, and enjoy the
drawn with a stick on the surface of a
thrill that comes from their efforts. I
cafe latte. In reality, the latte art I create
sometimes think it was that same thrill
is much more than that. The various
that led me my career as a barista.
pictures and designs created when
In fact, free-pour latte art began as a
pouring heated milk from a pitcher are
guarantee of the deliciousness of a
more than just drawings of hearts and
prepared latte – using only coffee and
leaves.
milk. If the beans are not properly
Latte art jumped the Atlantic to Seattle
ground, or the espresso is not properly
in the United States from its birthplace
pulled, the delicious brown coloring
in Italy. In America it evolved into
that forms the base of latte art does
“free-pour latte art”, where baristas use
not appear. Pouring the milk over this
their individual technique to produce
will not produce the beautiful contrast
cafe lattes with distinct flavors and
of white on brown.
aesthetic appeal. A Free Pour Latte Art
The barista must also be careful with
Competition is held annually in Seattle,
the milk itself. If they are successful in
and baristas from around the world
finely adjusting the milk’s temperature
gather here to pit their skills against
to produce a fine-bubble foam, the
each other.
milk is sweeter, and they can draw a
I think the art of free-pouring milk from a
smooth picture over the espresso. In
pitcher to create latte-art pictures
other words, the finished picture
developed for the same reason people
cannot be called free-pour latte art if
skateboard or snowboard – the thrill.
the flavor and the art are not
Baristas take up the challenge every
proportionate.
time they draw a picture, nervous about
Unfortunately, free-pour latte art is
slipping up if they use the wrong
relatively unknown in Japan. If I
technique or worried that a bit more milk
introduce more people to the charm
will make the picture spill over the cup.
and flavor of coffee with this new
That thrill is the same. Americans,
series by conveying my feelings for
especially those from the West Coast,
coffee, I will be satisfied.
love to develop and perfect their
STREAMER COFFEE COMPANY
1F, Miyagawa Bldg, 1-20-28 Shibuya,
Shibuya-ku, Tokyo
Tel: 03-6427-3705
http://streamercoffee.com/
08
2 011 October
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Tok
2 011 October
09
Yoshino, Koya and Kumano
Walking the
Kii Sankeimichi
Pilgrimage
Routes
In 2004 Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in
the Kii Mountain Range became a listed World
Heritage Site. For pilgrimage routes anywhere
to be accorded World Heritage status is most
unusual. Long ago this vast mountain range,
which straddles the three prefectures of Nara,
Wakayama and Mie, became the setting for
religious mountain ascetic practices. Eventually
three sacred sites with different origins and
religious significance emerged, along with the
pilgrimage routes that connected them. This
area has long had an enormous influence on the
development of Japanese religion and culture.
Photography/ Satoru Naito… Research and text/ JQR
Nara Prefecture
Kimpusen-ji
Zaodo
Niutsuhime-jinja
Yatate Teahouse
Mie Prefecture
Mount Yoshino
Yoshino Mikumari-jinja
Niukanshobu-jinja
Koyasan Choishimichi
Mount Koya
Wakayama Prefecture
Kumano Hongu Taisha
Kumano Hayatama Taisha
The Nachi no Himatsuri festival is held every year on July 14 at Nachi Taisha. A parade of blazing torches fifty centimeters
in diameter and weighing up to 50 kilograms are borne up the stone stairs in the fierce summer heat.
10
2 011 October
Kumano Kodo Kohechi
Kumano Kodo Nakahechi
Kumano Kodo Ohechi
Kumano Kodo Iseji
Kumano Nachi Taisha
Omine Okugakemichi
Koyasan Choishimichi
2 011 October
11
Zaodo hall is the main shrine at Kimpusen-ji, which is believed to have been founded
by En no Gyoja. In 1874 the Meiji government banned Shugendo and the temple
ceased to function as a Buddhist temple, becoming a Shinto shrine instead. Then in
1886 it was re-established as a Buddhist Tendai sect temple. In 1948 Kimpusen-ji
became the head temple for the independently established Kimpusen Shugen Honshu
Sect that was formed with the Zaodo hall (by then a designated national treasure) as
its center, a state which continues to this day.
A route deep in the mountains for Shugendo practitioners on a
pilgrimage of seventy five sacred sites and places of worship.
YOSHINO
吉野
12
2 011 October
Since time immemorial Mount Yoshino
and is said to have attained
training deep in the rugged mountains.
has been the most famous place in
Buddhahood in his lifetime through
The mountains venerated as the
Japan for cherry blossoms. From the
these practices. During this time he
dwelling place of the gods, the culture
northern tip of the Omine range, deep
encountered a manifestation of Buddha
of Shugendo that continues to this day,
green forest unchanged since ancient
in the form of a vision of Zao Gongen,
and a Shinto cultural environment
times covers an eight kilometer ridge
and, the folklore says, carved a figure
unchanged since ancient times; all
stretching north to south. In spring a
of Zao Gongen into a mountain cherry
these form the cultural landscape that
gorgeously colored carpet of cherry
tree and began worshipping him.
was recognized by the World Heritage
blossoms begins blooming in the
Eventually the cherry tree was deemed
listing.
Shimo-senbon area near Yoshino
sacred, and pilgrims coming to the
En no Gyoja is also believed to have
Station, and gradually spreads upwards
Yoshino mountains would plant cherry
founded Kimpusen-ji in the Yoshino
through the midway points of Naka-
trees. That is why there are so many
mountains, a World Heritage listed
senbon, then Kami-senbon, before
cherry trees in Yoshino.
temple where Zao Gongen is
finally reaching Oku-senbon at the
worshipped as the chief divinity. The
peak. It’s such a magnificent sight you
long trail that traverses the Omine
Zaodo hall, where Zao Gongen is
can understand why daimyo warrior
mountains to connect Yoshino and
enshrined under the name Kongo Zao
Toyotomi Hideyoshi would have taken
Kumano is believed to have been
Gongen (Diamond Realm Zao), is an
5,000 of his retainers there for a flower-
opened up by Eno no Gyoja for ascetic
enormous wooden structure that is
viewing party. The area receives many
practices. Known as the Omine
second in Japan only to the Great
visitors in fall as well, who wish to see
Okugakemichi, it is the most rugged of
Buddha Hall at Todai-ji temple in Nara.
the beautifully tinted autumn leaves.
the Kumano pilgrimage routes. Pilgrims
This hall is a principal center of worship
En no Gyoja, a famous sorcerer and
stop at each of the 75 places of
for Shugendo followers.
founder of the ascetic mountain
worship and sacred sites along the way
Other World Heritage listed structures
religious order Shugendo, arrived in the
as part of their ritual training. Even
in the Yoshino mountains are the
Yoshino mountains, with their peaks of
now, more than 1300 years later, the
Yoshino Mimakuri-jinja and Yoshimizu-
over a thousand meters high, in the 8th
route is a legacy for many Shugendo
jinja shrines. To make a journey along
century. According to tradition he
practitioners — known variously as
the pilgrimage route from Yoshino to
undertook perilous ascetic rituals there
mountain priests, ascetic monks or
Kumano is to give travelers a palpable
in order to expiate sin and defilement,
yamabushi — who undergo harsh
sense of the passing ages.
The roughly 170 kilometer
2 011 October
13
The path to Koyasan is lined with stone pillars and was opened up
by Buddhist priest Kobo Daishi.
KOY
A
高 野
14
2 011 October
2016 will mark the 1200th year since
erected. By some miracle all 216
constructed as a guardian shrine when
the Buddhist monastic complex on
signposts still survive in almost perfect
Kobo Daishi founded Jison-in. Built in
Mount Koya was founded. Kobo Daishi
condition. Follow these and you will not
the beautiful traditional architectural
(774-835) brought esoteric Shingon
only enjoy the same mountain scenery
style of Kasuga-zukuri, it was here that
sect Buddhist teachings back from
past pilgrims saw, but also the same
he worshipped the Shinto deities of Niu
China, then the center of culture, in
views of Kinokawa Plain. It’s because
Myojin and Koya Myojin.
816, and founded a religious
of these views that the path has
About seven kilometers from the start
community on the mountain as a place
become popular for sightseeing as well
of the trail is another shrine called
for monks to train.
as a pilgrimage route. Four structures
Niutsuhime-jinja, with a striking
Of the seven pilgrimage routes that
connected by the Koyasan Chosihimichi
vermilion-painted arched bridge and
lead to the 800 meter high Koyasan,
are also World Heritage listed.
tower gate, and an impressive main
the Koyasan Choishimichi route is
Jison-in marks the starting point of the
hall. Niu Myojin, the guardian deity of
listed as a World Heritage Site. Roughly
Koysan Choishimichi pilgrimage. Kobo
Koyasan, and her son Kariba Myojin,
23 kilometers in length, it starts in the
Daishi’s elderly mother stayed here
who is said to have guided Kobo Daishi
town of Kudoyama at the Jison-in
when she came from the Zentsuji
to the sacred place in the mountains,
temple, which was founded soon after
temple in Kagawa prefecture to see the
are worshipped at this shrine.
Koyasan was opened up, and leads to
complex on Mount Koya that her son
Stop for a breather at Yatate Teahouse
the mountain top. It was the most
had founded, but since women were
before continuing on to Kongobuji
frequented pilgrimage route up until the
forbidden to enter Koyasan at the time,
temple, and then it’s only an hour or so
Edo Period.
she was unable to go to him and
until you reach Kobo Daishi’s
Stone pillar signposts called choishi
instead lived at Jison-in. Legend has it
Mausoleum. The journey from Jison-in
line the path every 109 meters, a
that Kobo Daishi came down from the
takes about eight hours on foot. Carry a
measure of distance called a cho.
mountain nine times a month to see his
memo book like the pilgrims do to
Inscribed on these pillars are the names
mother, hence the town’s name of
collect imprints of souvenir rubber
of various Esoteric Buddhism buddhas
Kudoyama—literally, ‘nine times
stamps from sites along the way.
and deities written in Sanskrit, the
mountain’.
donor’s name, and the date they were
The nearby Niukanshobu-jinja was
➡扌 Towering cedars hundreds of years old line both sides of
the two kilometer path leading from the front approach to the
shrine up to Kobo Daishi’s Mausoleum. Nearby are rows of
memorials for people throughout the ages.
On the other side of the torii gates of Niutsuhimejinja is a delicately arched bridge, beautifully
reflected in the pond.
2 011 October
15
Experience Timeless Charm and the Footsteps of the Past on the
Route to Kumano Sanzan
Shinbutsu shugo is the fusion of
Kannon, respectively. As a result,
addition to this there are three other
ancient Japanese gods with the deities
Kumano was deemed to be a “Pure
routes; the 43.7 kilometer Kohechi
of imported Buddhism, vestiges of
Land,” as in the teachings of Pure Land
route connecting Mount Koya with
which can still be found today in
Buddhism, and it became popular for
Kumano Sanzan, the ten kilometer
Kumano Sanzan. Kumano Sanzan is
retired Emperors to visit there. The
Ohechi route that passes along the Kii
the collective name for the three grand
retired Emperor Go-Shirakawa made
Peninsula west coast to connect with
shrines of Kumano Hongu Taisha,
thirty four visits, and the retired Emperor
Kumano Sanzan, and the 54.2
Kumano Haytama Taisha, and Kumano
Go-Toba twenty eight. We know this
kilometer Iseji route from the Ise Jingu
Nachi Taisha. They are also the head
because records of their visits are
grand shrine to Kumano Sanzan. All of
shrines of the more than 3,000 Kumano
inscribed on stone monuments in the
these routes are World Heritage listed.
shrines across Japan. The massive
grounds of Kumano Hayatama Taisha.
The Iseji route is a particularly popular
scale of these main shrines is
The fact that in those days it would
one amongst the Kumano Sankeimichi
astonishing when seen in person. They
have taken two to three months to
pilgrimage routes. Because it was also
also have a very distinctive shape and
journey there from Kyoto tells us what
used by daimyo travelling to and from
layout, with very few of the carvings
a massive undertaking each visit would
their obligatory periods of residence in
usually found at shrines. In fact, their
have been. The sight of these former
Edo (now Tokyo), the trail was paved
architecture is not comparable to that
Emperors taking a huge retinue with
with stone and made wide enough for
of other shrines.
them on a pilgrimage to Kumano must
sedan chairs to be transported. A great
Under the influence of Shinbutsu shugo
have been a memorable sight for the
many laborers would have worked on it
during the Heian Period (794-1185),
common people, and would have
carefully during the Edo Period (1600-
Kumano Sanzan became an object of
helped to propagate the idea of
1868). Stones cut into varying sizes
worship known as Kumano Sansho
pilgrimages.
are laid out like a puzzle, which not
Gongen, meaning the three deities of
All three grand shrines are World
only makes them easy to walk over but
Kumano. With the emergence of the
Heritage listed, along with the
also beautiful to look at. And the
concept of Gongen, the belief that
Seiganto-ji and Fudarakusan-ji temples,
breathtaking view from the Magose
Japanese gods were manifestations of
which developed close connections
Pass en route erases all memory of
Buddhist deities, it came to be believed
with Nachi Taisha in the course of
tiredness from long hours of walking.
that the three gods enshrined in the
Shinbutsu shugo.
Along the Kumano pilgrimage routes
Kumano Sanzan shrines, Hongu,
The Kumano Sankeimichi Nakahechi
you will find both the footsteps of the
Shingu and Nachi, are also Amida
pilgrimage route from Kyoto to Kumano
past and timeless scenery.
Nyorai, Yakushi Nyorai and Senju
Sanzan is 88.8 kilometers long. In
KUMANO
熊 野
The red three-story pagoda of Nachisan Seiganto-ji stands out vividly against a backdrop of greenery and
Nachi Falls, a waterfall with one of the longest straight drops in Japan.
16
2 011 October
Greenery is thick on the pilgrimage routes because of
the high rainfall. Measures have been taken to
prevent landfalls even in heavy rain.
2 011 October
17
QR 1
The “two level
fixing” technique
creates a soft brush
that will not
damage the
garment fabric
when brushed.
Quality Review
Betsuatsurae for wool clothes 15,750 yen
Betsuatsurae all-purpose 15,750 yen
Both use Japanese cherry birch for the wooden base.
EDOYA Hand-made Clothes Brush
EDOYA Hand-made Clothes Brush
Special Order Besuatsurae Brushes
Photography: Satoru Naito, Text: Dai Furusawa
making brushes for Western
This all-purpose brush type can
clothes.
be used on a range of garments,
Among the many brushes Edoya
from delicate clothes to suits.
make is a quality-line product
The betsuatsurae brush for wool
called betsuatsurae (lit. special
clothing uses Berkshire-boar
Japanese began wearing Western
order). Edoya searched the world
hairs evenly bent in the middle,
clothes soon after the Meiji
for quality hair – the essential
so the tips and the roots make
Restoration in 1868. They were
material – for the bristles. They
the brush surface. This
undoubtedly reluctant to switch
now use boar hair from
produces a hard brush that can
from the kimono to unfamiliar
Chongqing, China, because it has
pick up lint burrowed deep into
Western garments. These clothes
the right stiffness and flexibility,
clothing fibers.
restricted their movement but
perfect for removing lint and other
The quality of the brush
probably made them feel a new
particles from clothing fibers.
determines the amount of dirt
age was beginning.
Natural boar hair is also static-
particles that can be removed.
Edoya was established in 1718
electricity resistant. No more
After all, you do not want a
when the eighth Shogun,
brushing your clothes only to
mini-dust storm whenever
Yoshimune, bestowed the name
have more lint attach to them.
someone slaps you on the
on them. At the time, brushes
The hairs are bundled and
shoulder.
were essential tools for applying
implanted into each hole in the
paper to sliding screens and
wooden body by hand, using a
applying lacquer. Brush making
“two-level fixing” technique. The
was definitely a big business.
hair is folded in a V-shape close
As time passed, the Japanese
to the hair roots and fixed to the
lifestyle became westernized, and
wooden body. Therefore, the long
Edoya began producing other
bristle – the hair tips – of the
varieties of brushes. After WWII,
V-shape is soft; and the short
fabric wholesalers prospered, and
bristle – the hair roots – is hard
the demand for clothing brushes
and supports the long bristle.
increased at Edoya’s Nihonbashi-
Each bristle’s length is then
odenmacho shop, so they began
adjusted to make the brush even.
Care for special clothes
provided by a meticulous,
time-honored brush maker
Portable and handy,
this brush comes
with a plastic case
that can slip in the
breast pocket of a
suit. The wooden
body is ebony, the
best quality wood
available. White for
cashmere clothes,
black for wool
clothes: 2,415 yen
each.
● Enquiries: Edoya Corporation, 2-16 Nihonbashi-odenmacho, Chuo-ku, Tokyo
Tel: 03-3664-5671 http://www.nihonbashi-edoya.co.jp/
18
2 011 October
2 011 October
19
［This Month’s Questions］
We asked smartly dressed passersby how they are feeling right now?
Street Snap
Q1 What dish do you think best represents Japanese cuisine?
Q2 Where are you heading, now?
Q3 How are you preparing for a possible earthquake?
[Nina’s Answers]
[Marina’s Answers]
Q1 Sushi
Q2 Harajuku Station
Q3 Evacuation supplies
Q1 Nikujaga
Q2 The American Apparel shop
Q3 I haven’t
Name: Yuki
Occupation: Student
Age: 19
□ Name: Rie
□ Occupation: Company employee
□ Age: 24
Dress: Bought at a vintage shop
Shoes: Jeanasis
Watch: Diesel
Earrings: Toyo Department Store
Bag: Bought at a vintage shop
Top: H&M
Skirt: ZUCCa
□ Name: Marina
□ Occupation: Bunka Gakuen University student
□ Age: 18
Top: Bought at vintage shop, Kinji
Bottom: Bought at vintage shop, Panama Boy
Shoes: Doc Martens
Apron: Bought at vintage shop, HAKU i
Accessories: Hand-made
Bag: Bought at vintage shop, HAKU i
20
2 011 October
□ Name: Nina
□ Occupation: Part-time worker
□ Age: 26
[Rie’s Answers]
Q1 Sushi
Q2 The hairdresser
Q3 I haven’t
Yukata: Bushoan
Shoes: Yurakucho Marui
[Yuki’s Answers]
Q1 Sushi
Q2 The Omotesando area
Q3 Saving electricity
Q3
2 011 October
21
JAPAN QUALITY REVIEW
JQR FASHION
Worldwide Online Media Publication
2011 October Vol.3
OMEKASHI
IKI
straightforward. Today, people want
clothes discernable at a glance, or a
touch, e.g. how cheap they are, how
good they feel on the skin – whether
they are made from natural material
When referring to a stylish woman in a
kimono, the Japanese used the phrase,
komata no kireagatta onna (a woman
with a slender figure). But, to which
part of the body the word komata refers
is unclear. Opinions differ. Some say the
or synthetics – or how the brand’s logo
acts as a symbol. Glamour, on the other
hand, is on the opposite spectrum to
iki, because it often resorts to a direct
approach through scantiness. Such
straightforwardness is undeniable, but
the body parts that become objects of
this fetishism indicates that these parts
also contain some sexual connotation.
Using the word ‘sexual’ is blunt, but
that is the issue in glamour. When
considering that the part of the body
indicated by komata is seen fleetingly
in a woman’s everyday deportment,
it must be one that hints at ordinarily
hidden glamour revealed at a random
moment, rather than explicit sex-appeal.
A hidden glamour, iki can be seen in
Yohji Yamato’s clothes, for example,
which are often black – an asexual
color. The form of his garments
unostentatiously show the body’s
lines. The charm hidden within these
garments is the antithesis of Western
sexiness. Yohji Yamato often says that
fewer women today suit the clothes
he designs, and that may be so. The
concept of iki is incongruous in the
modern age when things need to be
the issue also exists in complex clothing,
too.
The issue of iki is, of course, not only
glamour. When used in the expression
“iki-na hakarai,” it has a stylishness
that hides consideration towards
others, rather than having a directness.
Weaving this consideration is easy in
the field of design, in particular. Design
that considers the wearer while hiding
its intention cannot be understood at
a glance and may not be immediately
obvious when used or worn. But a slow
realization about things over time is
important, too.
In other words, iki and its intention
are difficult to comprehend at a glance.
Iki may even be defined as a betrayal
of the outer surface. It has a differing
element to appearance and combines
a conflicting element. Even so, bluntly
concluding that the inner surface is
more significant is hasty. The issue is
the difference and the conflict between
the outer and inner surfaces, so the
outer surface is also similarly significant.
Hiroshi Ashida: Born 1978. Ashida quit his Ph.D. research program
at the Kyoto University Graduate School. He is now assistant curator
at the Kyoto Costume Institute.
The Language of Dressing Up 01　Text◉Hiroshi Ashida
nape of the neck. Regardless, all could
see an element of iki (chic, in English)
in various parts of the female anatomy
they ordinarily had little chance to gaze
attentively upon. The beholder’s gaze at
Style Begins When the Outer Surface Conflicts with the Inner
part of the foot between the big toe and
the second toe; others, the ankle or the
The structure of chic indicates three
impetuses: coquetry, self-confidence, and
acceptance. (Iki-no-kozo [The Structure
of Chic], Shuzo Kuki)
Socks◉DIGAWEL. Contrasting primary colors. Hidden away inside one's shoes, socks are unseen, but they are stylish accessories when shoes are taken off.
Black/red 2,625 yen each, DIGAWEL（DIGAWEL）
Furoshiki bag: Wag. A furoshiki dyed in the tradition chosen method made into an eco-bag; everyday use for tradition.
2,625 yen, WISE • WISE tools (WISE • WISE tools)
Dress: Y’s. This knee-length, jet-black one-piece falls loose to the waist and highlights the beauty within while hiding the outer femininity.
54,600 yen Y’s (Y’s Information Desk)
Bamboo accessories: Takayuki Shimizu. These accessories made from thinly shaved bamboo grown in Beppu, Oita Prefecture, layered and woven, accent a refined lifestyle.
Hairpin 2,100 yen/Earrings 3,150 yen (Rin)
Folding fan: Honshibu sensu. A collaboration between a Kyoto designer and the 300-year-old traditional fan makers from Takashima, Shiga Prefecture, which is famous for
producing fan ribs. Used since ancient times, persimmon juice produces this warm, unique color. A revolution blending tradition.
9,800 yen SEN-KOTSU Kobo (THE COVER NIPPON)
63,000 yen/jacket, 28,350 yen/trousers anglasad (anglasad)
Message t-shirt: Taro Okamoto, Shinro Otake, AZ. Standard t-shirts with bold messages wrapped with simplicity.
Skirt: MIYAO. A simple pattern inversed, made of cotton and lace. Bold playfulness.
14,700 yen MIYAO (MIYAO)
Zori: Mitsuhashi Kobo. A pair of traditional Japanese sandals using finely dyed Edo-pattern paper. A single luxury.
29,400 yen Mitsuhashi Kobo (THE COVER NIPPON)
Jewelry: S. nakaba. Hand-made jewelry created from trash. The design inspired by nature is original and warm.
Jacket: AKIRA NAKA. A jacket with a feminine, precise pattern and a bold contrast of differing materials. An elegance without borders.
81,900 yen AKIRA NAKA (ESTEEM PRESS)
Cardigan: near.nippon. At a glance, this cardigan made from quality fabric looks like a jacket. A chic but casual design.
26,250 yen near.nippon (near.co.ltd)
Bag: monacca. This bag made from thinned wood from Umajimura in Kochi Prefecture, which is ordinarily disposed of, is refined scrap-wood fashion.
29,400 yen monacca (Rin)
Geta: anglasad Geta inspired by Tora-san, the main character in the movie series Otoko wa tsurai yo (It’s Tough Being a Man) like a carefree sandal.
14,800 yen anglasad (anglasad)
Hat: Education From Young Machines. A classic, winsome wool hat with detailed roses drawn on the outside.
15,750 yen Education From Young Machines (GUILD PRIME Shibuya)
Broach: ARTS & SCIENCE. Accessorize with a single flower of boldly dyed delicate silk with plum-flower pattern.
(left) 14,700/(middle) 4,200 yen/(right) 3,990 yen ARTS&SCIENCE (ARTS & SCIENCE Marunouchi, OVER THE COUNTER BY ARTS & SCIENCE)
Naito
(left) 6,000 yen/(middle) 18,000 yen/(right) 5,000 yen S. nakaba (Mikiri Hasshin)
Accoutrements 02 - 03　Photography◉Satoru
Taro Okamoto t-shirt 3,000 yen/ Taro Okamoto Memorial Museum/Shinro Otake t-shirt 3,150 yen/AZ 7,140 yen (Mikiri Hasshin)
Vanguard of the Royal Road
Suit: anglasad.　The arabesque-like design was inspired by the “god’s clothes” worn by the Ainu race when praying to their gods. The suit is also sacred.
These denim pants based on vintage Levis have
The rising sun shines on the chest of this t-shirt stitched
Inspired by a stereotypical school uniform, this jacket is made
randomly hand-painted large dots, rough hand stitching,
with red-thread quilting for accent. Abounding in
from fabric special ordered by the boutique, Mikiri Hasshin.
patchwork on the back and other fine details.
symbolism, you will want to wear this shirt with style.
The imaginative design uses ivory white fabric woven with
Hand-sewn jeans (polka dot) 33,600 yen
Hand-stitched t-shirt (Hi-no-maru) 17,850 yen
gold thread accented with milk-colored buttons and hand
keisuke kanda (candyrock)
keisuke kanda (candyrock)
stitching.
School uniform 47,250 yen
keisuke kanda x Mikiri Hasshin (Mikiri Hasshin)
Geta (Quilt, Red) These paulownia geta reminiscent of
Keisuke Kanda reinterpreted the tacky school tracksuit
hand stitching and the contrast on the body to attract
the rough students of old or Tora-san at the movies are
Japanese students were embarrassed to wear into a
attention. The left and right wrists with slightly different
made to traditional specifications. Daring to wear geta is
jacket by adding white hand stitching and using fabric
ribbing show the attention to detail.
humorous rebellion.
with a slightly different tone.
Hand-stitched cardigan (Black and other colors)
Geta (Quilt, Red) 18,900 yen
Tracksuit jacket, Sample
35,700 yen
keisuke kanda (candyrock)
keisuke kanda (candyrock)
keisuke kanda (candyrock)
school badge-like, cheap, plastic buttons,
the familiar hand stitching, and the color
of the garment, itself. The ivory white
fabric woven with gold thread and the
ladylike tight fit add sophistication.
The quality techniques and the careful
attention to detail are the basis of
Keisuke Kanda’s design, not only found
in this season’s men’s collection.
While studying at Waseda University,
designer Keisuke Kanda was introduced
to fashion by a friend, who was
mature for his age and knowledgeable
in literature and subculture. This
friend was wearing brands, such as
Seditionaries, Comme des Garcons, and
Undercover. Kanda felt a resistance
towards being fashion conscious but
realized that “fashion was on the same
side as literature.”
Kanda dubbed the clothes he creates,
anti-fashion. “I want to make clothes
like a finger poking you in the back,”
he tweeted. He gives meaning to
circulating clothes, in itself, and
continues to challenge the concept of
fashion. (To be honest, he shows an
image of what clothes can be.) Kanda
once held an impromptu fashion show
on a commuter train in front of average
commuters and presented a collection
using female porn stars as models with
Tokyo Tower as the backdrop. This
autumn, Kanda is opening his first retail
store. But it is more than just a store; it
is also a snack bar.
This August, Kanda began a
collaboration project with photographer
Masashi Asada: Sotsugyo-shashin-no
Shukudai (Graduation photo homework).
Asada shifted, and in doing so made
people reconsider, the concept of
commemorative family snapshots
through his Cosplay Shashin (Dress-up
photographs) project, in which his family
appear. Kanda and Asada’s works have
a common denominator in their use of
loose-atmospheric direction and clichéd
motifs. They both reveal a paradoxical
framework in their photographs and
clothing, and push the limits.
With sincere passion and thought,
Keisuke Kanda always challenges people
with concepts to make them stare in
wonderment. Who knows how he will
surprise us, or make us laugh, next. We
can only wait with anticipation.
Kyoko Ozawa: Born in 1976 in Gunma prefecture. Ozawa passed the coursework section for the University of Tokyo Graduate School doctoral course then withdrew. She is a
specially appointed researcher at the University of Tokyo Center for Philosophy.
Naito　Text◉Kyoko Ozawa
No. 3 Keisuke Kanda
The fashion world has come to the point
where one is no longer surprised at the
design vocabulary bantered around:
from the concept-centric unwearable
lines to the alien-like or stuffed animallike costumes in B-grade Sci-Fi movies.
Keisuke Kanda sometimes surprises us
with some of the clothes he designs and
their presentation.
The Autumn/Winter 2011 men’s
line of clothing, for example, includes
knitwear and jeans with clumsy hand
stitching. (The stitching is more like
an elementary school boy’s Home
Economics homework than warm
handcraft or careful handwork.) The
jacket is reminiscent of the purple track
suits Japanese wear at junior high or
high school. When you look closely, the
trunk of the elephant stitched on the
chest – similar that found on golf wear,
is a phallus in the spirit of crude, schoolboy humor.
But this design does not fall in the area
of marginal art. The school uniform
created in collaboration with boutique
Mikiri Hassin, for example, is designed
in the style of the stereotypical boy’
s uniform from the mid-1900s with the
Fun Dressing Up 04- 05　Photography◉Satoru
A cardigan branded with the elephant logo has white
Dressed-up People 06-07　Photography◉Takemi Yabuki “FEMME” (p.06, 08, 10, 12), Maki Taguchi (p.07, 09, 11, 13)/Hair & Make up◉Tsukushi Ichikawa/Model◉Sayo Akasaka (p.08, 12), Shohei Yamashita (p.10, 14)◉Text: Hiroshi Ashida
Kaori Shinohara (Hair stylist: Kaminarimon) Blouse 28,140 yen ANTIQUE/the Virgin Mary, gown 16,590 yen ANTIQUE/the Virgin Mary, inner blouse 5,040 yen USED/the Virgin Mary, skirt 21,000 yen ONNA:)/the Virgin Mary
Coat 126,000 yen SOMARTA/ESTEEM PRESS, shirt 31,500 yen SOMARTA/ESTEEM PRESS, earrings 35,000 yen S. nakaba / S. nakaba, headpiece sample S. nakaba / S. nakaba
Avant-garde, but classic. The clash is the aesthetics of apparel.
Chic and stylish are different. Chic does not live in the completed form. Betray the effect with the image of elegant, feminine lace.
Dressed-up People 08 - 09
Hideo Oshima (actor/Asakusa Temple) Jacket 71,400 yen anglasad/anglasad, trousers 26,250 yen anglasad/anglasad
A mysterious blend of East and West emerged after Japonisme became popular in Western countries. The Japanese tastes
incorporated into Western clothing give the illusion of a pre-established harmony and creates a different balance.
Coat 178,500 yen araisara/ESTEEM PRESS, trousers 54,600 yen araisara/ESTEEM PRESS, corset 47,250 yen araisara/ESTEEM PRESS, belt sample araisara/ESTEEM PRESS
Dressed-up People 10 -11
Maho Kanbara (Clark /Nakamise) Sneakers remade into pumps 31,500 yen POTTO/Mikiri Hasshin, sneaker-mask speaker Sample POTTO/Mikiri Hasshin, bag 16,800 yen Hatora/Mikiri Hasshin
ESTEEM PRESS, bag 45,150 yen motonari ono/ESTEEM PRESS, headpiece 115,500 yen Stephen Jones/test
Dress 52,500 yen SOMARTA/ESTEEM PRESS, tights 16,800 yen SOMARTA/ESTEEM PRESS, belt 11,760 yen motonari ono/ESTEEM PRESS, shoes 46,200 yen motonari ono/ESTEEM PRESS, gloves 29,400 yen motonari ono/
The shoe on the head has an Elsa Schiaparelli-like surrealism. Casual sneakers and chic pumps:
having fun slightly off track with no attention to form.
PHENOMENON/THE CONTEMPORARY FIX, choker 25,000 yen S. nakaba / S. nakaba, ring 120,000 S. nakaba / S. nakaba, sunglasses 26,250 yen LINDA FARROW/test
’
Shirt 35,700 yen PHENOMENON/THE CONTEMPORARY FIX, trousers 37,800 yen PHENOMENON/THE CONTEMPORARY FIX, bolero 36,750 yen PHENOMENON/THE CONTEMPORARY FIX, shoes 45,150 yen PHENOMENON/THE CONTEMPORARY FIX, suspenders 6,300 yen
Dressed-up People 12-13
iccho (Fashion broker/Hanayashiki) Hat 23,100 yen CHRISTOPH COPPENS/destination Tokyo, necktie 16,800 yen CHRISTOPH COPPENS/destination Tokyo
A zany clown. Who knows what he s thinking?
The contrast with the surface and his sincere concern for the audience moves people.
JAPAN QUALITY REVIEW
JQR FASHION
Worldwide Online Media Publication
2011 October Vol.3
Editor in Chief and Publisher
◉
Jun Shinozuka
Fashion Director and Stylist
◉
Souta Yamaguchi
Art Director
◉
Masya Mutoh (No Design)
Designer
◉
Akari Sugawara (No Design)
Planning
◉
Integral Corporation
2-1-14 Sarugaku-cho, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 101- 0064
Tel. 03-3518-4488
Publishing
◉
JQR Editorial Department
2-1-14 Sarugaku-cho, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 101-0064
Tel. 03-3518-2270
Shop/Brand Information
◉
anglasad 03-5768-0744
ARTS&SCIENCE Marunouchi 03-5224-8651
destination Tokyo 03-3350-5027
DIGAWEL 03-6452-3220
ESTEEM PRESS 03-5428-0928
GUILD PRIME Shibuya 03-6419-3091
MIYAO 03-6804-3494
near.co.ltd 0422-72-2279
OVER THE COUNTER BY ARTS&SCIENCE 03-3400-1009
Rin 03-6418-7020
S.nakaba 0427-82-2374
test, 03-5775-1537
THE CONTEMPORARY FIX 03-6418-1460
THE COVER NIPPON 03-5413-0658
the Vigin Mary 03-6427-4709
WISE・WISE tools 03-5647-8355
Taro Okamoto Memorial Museum 03-3406-0801
mikirihasshin 03-3486-7673
Candyrock Inc. 03-3318-6206
Y’s Information Desk 03-5463-1540
eng.jqrmag.com
Japan and Me
-The Modern is in the Traditional-
VOI.
Francoise Morechand, Essayist
Cultural divides
What takes the fancy of Figaro when it comes to what Americans like?
What elements of Japan's
culinary culture should the
French incorporate into their
own?
In July this year, Figaro, France's biggest-selling
daily, ran a series of articles on people's
preferences in different countries. The object of
the series was to examine other countries'
cultures in detail, and this particular article
focused on food and eating.
For each country featured, Figaro ran an analysis
of what it believed the French ought to incorporate
in their own cuisine, as well as the aspects they
would do better not to emulate.
Here are the conclusions drawn by Figaro from its
observations of the United States.
According to the writer, one thing the French
would do well to learn from their U.S. brethren is
“to laugh in restaurants.”
It's true that in France, raucous merriment is not
generally a feature of the dining experience. For
we French, eating is a serious pursuit, an
opportunity to savor the food in front of us and
debate the merits of the latest films we've seen.
Laughter is limited to the recounting of a funny
story.
Personally, this style of eating coincides exactly
with my own preference. But the Figaro reporter,
perhaps more American in his manners than yours
truly, believes the French ought to laugh more,
that is, like Americans.
If you ask me, U.S.-style laughing is just noisy, to
the extent of hindering conversation at
surrounding tables. Annoying in the extreme.
Figaro's next candidate for inclusion in French
cuisine is the barbecue. But to the French,
barbecuing is too basic, and frankly, cannot be
viewed as cooking. As a natural-born
41
2 011 October
Frenchwoman, I must agree. But the Figaro writer
thinks we should develop more admiration for this
type of food, and tries to convince readers that the
expertise required--adjusting the flame to just the
right heat (so it doesn't char the food, or leave it
half-raw); stopping fat from flying about
everywhere; and not allowing already cooked food
to overheat, yet offering it before it cools--is
worthy of respect.
The writer's list of what France can learn from
American culinary culture does not end there.
Next he sings the praises of the doggy bag. On
this, I profess to agree. Afraid of being thought of
as terribly gauche, the French never have the
courage to request a doggy bag. In fact, in France
it is seen as extremely bad manners to leave even
a small amount on one's plate. Such behavior is
frowned upon when half the planet's population is
starving. But if, even then, one can't help leaving
some of the meal, the doggy bag is a brilliant idea.
Not to mention it makes for some very happy
“doggies”.
Nor is Figaro's writer opposed to the hamburger,
which the French have already embraced, if not,
admittedly, to nearly the same extent as the
Japanese. Not only that, he even goes so far as to
include on his list Coke and the banana split! But
let's not be too quick to judge. It's only on the
condition that ingestion of these is restricted to
once a month.
Having extolled the virtues of Coca-Cola and the
banana split, the writer concludes by citing one
aspect of the American way of eating the French
should most definitely not import: obesity. On this,
nobody would disagree. Incidentally, there is a
good way to avoid obesity: incorporate elements
of Japanese cuisine in one's diet. Needless to say
by this I mean traditional Japanese cuisine.
The Figaro series did not cover Japan, so I've
Françoise Moréchand
4
私と日本
endeavored to come up with my own list. Though
it's a mystery to me why the Figaro writer made
no mention of sushi, which was introduced with
great success to France around the same time as
manga.
One could list countless wonderful Japanese
foods and dishes—tofu (soy bean cheese), miso
(fermented soy bean paste), rice cooked in water,
sushi, to name just a few—that are healthy and
thus help guard against excess weight, but here
I'd like to talk about wagashi: Japanese
confections. The vast majority of wagashi have a
base of azuki bean paste and sugar, and use no
fat whatsoever. In other words they contain none
of that unhealthy ingredient almost ubiquitous in
Western cakes and confections.
Like Japanese cooking, a sense of seasonality is
a vital component of wagashi.
Allow me to reminisce here. Not long after my
arrival in Japan, which happened to be in spring, I
was presented with a small box of sakura-mochi
rice cakes. Sakura-mochi is the archetypal spring
confection in Japan. The mochi rice cake is
wrapped in a salted cherry tree leaf, the mildly
briny tang acting as the perfect foil to the
sweetness of the azuki paste, resulting in a subtle
yet sublime contrast of sweet and saline. Enjoy
one with a cup of green tea for a heavenly taste
sensation...with minimal calories to boot!
Other things we French should definitely adopt
from Japan's culinary culture are a sensible, that
is not too late, dinner time, and a talent for
arranging food with the beauty of a scroll.
By now you'll realize that here is a food culture
about as far removed from the hamburger as it is
possible to be.
*This is the English rendering of a Japanese article originally
translated from French.
2 011 October
42
Sake to Drink From a Wineglass
In Praise
of
Fine Sake Vol.
6
Miyaizumi Brewery
Address: Higashisakae-machi 8-7, Aizuwakamatsu-shi, Fukushima
Telephone: 0242-27-0031
http://www.miyaizumi.co.jp/
●
●
●
●
●
Alcohol content: 16%　● Seimaibuai (rice milling percentage): 60%
Nihonshu-do (Sake Meter Value + dry, -sweet): +0.5
Acidity: 1.5
Rice: Yume no Kaori (grown at Kamimawatari Yume Farm, Minato-machi, Aizuwakamatsu)
Volume: 1.8 liters ● Price: 2,310 yen (tax inclusive)
Junai Shikomi（Pure Love Brew）
Junmai
Text/ Kaori Haishi (sake sommelier) Photography/ Susumu Nagao
Sharaku
a sweet sake. The acid leaves a fresh
of it in both. The ideal temperature for
impression, and forms a superb balance
drinking this sake is 10 to 12 degrees.
with the dryness that makes a final shy
Over-chill it and the finely-tuned
Mention driven young brewers to me,
appearance. It also has a mild lactic
smoothness is reduced by half, making
and the first person that springs to my
acid aroma, derived from the rice from
the taste harsh. Remove it from the
mind is Yoshihiro Miyamori of the
which it was made. You don’t tire of this
fridge a little while beforehand, and wait
famous Miyaizumi Brewery. Always
sake after one glass.
until slight drops of water appear on the
moving with the times and taking on
I took the plunge and tried thinly sliced
bottle before you drink it.
new challenges, the sake he brews
apple as an accompanying snack, since
The label around the neck is so often
provokes an enthusiastic response from
I wanted something that had the same
mistaken for a misprint, but it’s not
sake drinkers. His dignified,
sweet-sour tartness. You might think
“Junmai,” as you might think, but “Junai”.
straightforward and uncompromising
that a strange concept, but it does in
Pure love. Sake brewed with love.
stance rather reminds me of a Tokugawa
fact work well. Sprinkle some salt over
Putting this on the neck label is the sort
shogunate loyalist.
the apple and it’s even better. A glorious
of small touch characteristic of
You might expect that sake made by
sake accompanied by the taste of fruit
Miyamori, and is indicative of a greater
such a dauntless brewer would be an
is an experience everyone should try. I
allegiance: his love of sake brewing,
ultra-dry man’s drink, but this is not so.
can also recommend dishes that feature
love for the local area, and love for
Junai Shikomi Junmai Sharaku is a sake
vinegar, such as squid and cucumber
Fukushima. Many loves have been
with an enchanting fruity flavor, with a
with a vinegar dressing, or chicken
poured into the making of this brew.
smooth texture and bittersweetness
wings simmered in vinegar. When the
With just one drop of it, your palate will
reminiscent of white peaches. However,
food and sake have an acidity in
experience the spirit of this brewer.
by fruity I don’t simply mean that this is
common, it heightens the deliciousness
Pure Love Brew:
A Sake that Moves the Heart
2 011 October
44