The villages of Stazzema

The villages
of
Stazzema
History
Folklor
Traditions
Culture
RUOSINA
Between the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, Ruosina has been an
importante seat of the ironworking. In that period here there was the
Regia Magona Medicea that left traces in coats of arms and in the old
industrial architecture (still visible) placed in different sites along rivers
Vezza and Cansoli. The trout in marble in front of the church was placed
in memory of a lucky fishining of 1603, carried here by Cristina di Lorena,
Grand Duke Ferdinando 1st De' Medici's wife. The Main Church is dedicated
to San Paolo and Sant'Antonio da Padova and dates
back to the Sixteenth Century. The oratory is instead
dedicated to Santa Lucia and San Francesco Saverio
and is at the beginning of the muletrack that leads
to Retignano. Since the end of 1700 and for most
of 1800s, the village was the most important center
of the municipality of Stazzema: there was the municipal
seat, the seat of the first post office and there were some shops and
activities. Ruosina (or Ròsina, as the inhabitants call it) is now divided
into small residential units and the area is under the jurisdiction of two
separate municipalities: Seravezza and Stazzema.
PONTESTAZZEMESE
The country, except for a few small scattered residential areas, runs
almost entirely along the provincial road. It is located at the confluence
of two streams, Mulina and Vezza, and is the administrative center of
the whole Municipality of Stazzema. From there depart barycentrically all
lines of connection to the villages of "Alta Versilia". On the background
you can see the characteristic Mount Forato (1223 m.) and the Pania
della Croce (1859 m.). The Church, which retains a throne in wood made
by Cipriani, is dedicated to Sant'Antonio
da Padova, celebrated on June 13th. Near the school of
Pontestazzemese there is the Sanctuary of the Alpini,
inaugurated in 1972 and dedicated to the Alpini
fallen in the Second World War in Versilia.
In memory of Don Innocenzo Lazzeri, a victim of the
barbarity of the Second World War, was placed a
bust in bronze on the side of the birth house,
accompanied by a plaque in marble, dated 1962. In a place called
“Fornetto” there is a plaque that shows the presence of the poet
Giosuè Carducci in this village.
CARDOSO
The country was founded in 1407 by
merging of three villages: Cardoso, Malliventre
and Farneta.The village is known for its stone
quarries of "Cardoso". This stone is used in
sills, jambs, stairs, capitals and for a
versatile architecture that can embrace
different styles from classic to modern.
From Cardoso depart a series of trails with
different difficulty levels that can reach many
picturesque locations, including Colle Mezzana,
Palagnana, Mount Forato at the foot of which stands the Romanesque
church of San Leonardo.
The church of the village, built in the first half of 1700 in honor of
Santa Maria Assunta, is located in front of the beautiful bell tower of
1745.
Cardoso was seriously damaged by the flood of June 19th 1996 that
struck the Alta Versilia, but was exemplary and promptly rebuilt and
modernized. On the main road of Cardoso we find Palazzo of Culture,
venue for exhibitions, conferences and other cultural events.
VOLEGNO
The name of this small village probably derives
from the Ligurian-Apuan (Belenio: one who shines or
Belen, God of the Sun). The church was built at the
beginning of 1900 on the ancient oratory of the
Madonna delle Grazie, celebrated on September 8th,
dating back to 1500. The doors of the church are of
a "modern taste", made by a German artist. Near to
the church stands the neo-Gothic bell tower built
in 1888, with its characteristic pointed shape.
In 1769 Volegno (with Pruno) produced the best
silkworms of the area. Until 1960 in Volegno was practiced
the extraction of a stone known as Volegno's Stone or “Cipollino”
recognizable by the white-bluish-green color. This activity has stopped
because the lack of the raw material and the disadvantaged position of
the quarries made it too difficult and uneconomical to continue the
extractions. This marble is still visible in the form of plates in the
streets of the country. Volegno, together with the communities of Pruno
and Cardoso, organizes various cultural and traditional activities. It is a
country at the forefront in renewable energy because, like Pruno, is
heated by biomass of virgin wood.
PRUNO
The whole village is perched and seems to be growing around the tower
which is located on the highest point of the country. The vision that it
offers is an enchanting beauty and allows us to trace the history and leads
through its winding alleys and particular, characterized by the typical views
of the valley and the majestic scenery that opens to the Apuans. In the
village stands out, with a square bell tower, the Romanesque church of San
Nicola built around the year 1000 with obvious signs early Christian. The
community of Pruno, together with neighboring communities, organizes
cultural events of particular importance as the "Solstizio d'Estate”
(Summer Solstice) which takes place every year
around the 20th of June. During the period
of the summer solstice the sun rises passing through
the large natural arch of Mount Forato, called
in this way for this particular characteristic, the
same happens with the moon during the Winter
Solstice. Starting from the country you can hike
to the peaks of the Apuan Alps and visit the pastures
Caselle, Pereta, Rocchetta and Poggiogo that testify
past activities of transhumance. The village of Pruno is heated by biomass
of virgin wood.
LE MULINA
Between the fifteenth and seventeenth centuries Mulina was known
throughout Tuscany of the Medicean Period and the Renaissance thanks
to the development of iron ore mines, ironworks and the production of
gunpowder and fuses.The production of tools, weapons and fuses, took
place in the Pocai family's factories. This activity has stopped between
1950 to 1960. The country is composed of three
villages: Carbonaia, Culerchio and Calcaferro. In Carbonaia
there are the nursery school and the fish hatchery;
in Culerchio there is the Parish Church of San Rocco
with adjoining the Memorial Park; near Calcaferro,
in a picturesque landscape, there is the source of
Molinette, from which flow excellent mineral
waters. From here you can take a nice walk on the
path that leads to Farnocchia and discover the old sites
of the iron mines, the mills and a beautiful bridge of the
Renaissance-Medicean period in good condition of maintenance.
STAZZEMA
The country is located in a strategic position from which you can
dominate the whole valley and enjoy a unique microclimate thanks to its
position the whole day in front of the sun.The outpost of the village is
the church of Santa Maria Assunta, built in the ninth Century and
enlarged and restored in the twelfth.
Inside there are works by the sculptors Benti, by the
painter Ficherelli and an antique organ that dates from
the seventeenth Century. The bell tower is literally
perched on a giddy cliff. Just below the church there
is a little gem, the Shrine of Madonna del Piastraio,
the only Marian shrine of the Pisa Diocese. Another
church in the north part of the village is
dedicated to Santa Maria delle Nevi. Walking through the characteristic
small streets it is possible to see numerous fountains, the most beautiful
is the fountain of Carraia that dates back to the sixteenth century.
Another important sign of a glorious past is the Medicean Tower or Clock
Tower of the eighteenth Century. The village has hosted many artists
including the family Simi, Pietro Annigoni and Mario Parri. From here you
can take hiking and climbing to the Alpe della Grotta, to Mount Procinto
and Forato.
POMEZZANA
The village, at the slopes of Mount
Matanna and the Colle della Castellina,
is surrounded by chestnut woods, but it
also opens up the view to the Apuan Alps
and the valley. The country's economy
was originally based on iron crafts, which today has an important
testimony in the workshops "Milani" in which they produce tools for
marble sculpture demanded all over the world. In Pomezzana you can
admire the church of San Sisto, whose first mention dates back to 1377,
rich in works of sacred art and furnishings, as a silver astylar cross dating
between the late thirteenth and early fourteenth Century; the Oratory
of Santa Maria delle Grazie (called the "Margine"), which dates back to
1300 and the Oratorio di San Rocco sull'Alpe (called "al Monte Croce")
presumably dating back to the Medieval times.
The bell tower of the church, after the second collapse, was rebuilt in
1915 on new foundations shifted downstream and 15 meters deep: still
remains slightly tilted, but thanks to the solid foundation is still standing.
From the village you can reach the Rifugio Forte dei Marmi, the Alto
Matanna and the mouth of San Rocchino.
FARNOCCHIA
Farnocchia is renowned for its pure air and for the view which opens up to
the Alps and, a little above, towards the Tyrrhenian coast. The origin of
the village dates back to Ligurian-Apuan period. At the beginning of the
village there is the church of San Michele Arcangelo that in its original
structure dates back to year 1000. Inside the church you can admire
interesting sacred productions attributable to
Roberto Cipriani, Lorenzo Stagi and other famous
artists and the organ that dates back to 1748.
The basin, located on the square of the church,
belongs to a fountain built in 1659 and was
moved there in the 1980s. The town hall.
built in 1670 and now used as the hall of the Philharmonic, was used for
meetings of governors and heads of families. In 1820, many families were
working in the manufacture of canes for guns and for burst, for tools for
firearms, scissors and pencil sharpeners. The Philharmonic Orchestra of
Santa Cecilia of Farnocchia was founded in 1850 by the will of two men of
exceptional talent: Giuseppe Razzuoli and Roberto Cipriani. These are two
important families of local artisans of Versilia: the family Razzuoli in 1700
founded the first workshop of silver, while the Cipriani family in the same
years has established itself in woodworking.
RETIGNANO
Retignano was born as a roman village between
560 and 580 A.D. and became an indipendent
municipality in 1100. The church, dedicated to San
Pietro Apostolo, probably date back to the eight
Century and is clad in marble both inside and outside.
There are works of considerable interest, made by sculptor
Lorenzo Stagi and his school, as the cup stoup dating back to 1500 and
the tabernacles of the two altars on the left side door. In the center of
the village there is another small church, (Oratory of Santa Maria
Assunta) probably dating from the late seventeenth Century, and
dedicated to Our Lady. Inside there is an organ bought by the Franciscan
Fathers in Pisa and other works of Stagi and his school. Since 2002, the
village is home to the seat of CERAFRI: Center for Research and Higher
Education for the Prevention of Hydrogeological Risk in partnership with
the University of Florence. From the village you can take a walk to the
quarries of Mount Alto where once were extracted “bardiglio fiorito” and
“penice rossa” (kinds of marble). Passing through some disused quarries it
is possible to reach the village of Volegno.
LEVIGLIANI
Levigliani is a village with ancient origins: a proof of
this are the finds of Etruscan remains and a
Ligurian-Apuan necropolis. The Church dates back
to the sixteenth Century and is dedicated to the
Visitation of Holy Mary. The prevailing economy of
the village derives from the extraction of the marble
in the basin of Mount Corchia from which are extracted two types of
marble: Arabescato and Venato Corchia, demanded all over the world.
The village is located in a strategic position in terms of hiking: this is the
starting point for Mosceta, Pania della Croce and Mount Corchia, the
latter in part also visitable inside. Not far from the village, in fact, there
is the artificial tunnel which allows the tourist fruition of a portion of
the karst cavity in the ground: the most important karst complex in Italy
and one of the largest in the world. With the system "CORCHIA
UNDERGROUND" it is possible to complete the route visiting the mines,
the oldest of High Tuscany, and the museums (Museum of Pietra Piegata
and Museum of Comunità e d'Impresa “Lavorare Liberi”). Levigliani gave
the origin to the famous painter
Filadelfo Simi, as evidenced by the
marble plaque placed on the birthplace and a painting that is inside the
Church. The country has an important complex band “Santa Cecilia
Philharmonic”, which was founded in 1904 under the direction of Maestro
D'Amato from Seravezza and the President Mansueto Neri from Levigliani.
TERRINCA
The village is situated at the foot of Mount Corchia and seems to be
the oldest village of Versilia because the first written testimonies date
back to the Longobard domination in Italy. The church of Santissimi
Clemente and Colombano is inside richly decorated with marble, with a
valuable painting of Madonna del Carmelo dates back to 1600 and the
historic concertistic organ dating back to 1896 made by the company
Agati-Tronci. In oratory of San Rocco, close to the village, there is a
painting of the Madonna with San Rocco and San Sebastiano attributed
to Guglielmo Tommasi. Terrinca is very active in terms of cultural
activities and the Circle of Colombani is active
and authoritative voice for the historical
sources of Alta Versilia. Near the village you can
admire the ancient rock carvings and numerous
"marginette" (a stone shelter holding an image of
a helpful Saint) dating back to 1600, once a shelter
for the traveler and for the animals, but, above all, a place of prayer
of the individual as the community.
ARNI
The village of Arni, 916 meters above the sea level,
was for centuries a mountain pasture divided between
the communities of Vagli and La Cappella.
In the valley there were many metalliferous veins of
copper, iron and lead, exploited until the second
half of the nineteenth Century. Arni is famous for its
marble quarries and the main economic activity is still
linked to the extraction. The first marble quarry
was opened in 1849 by Mr. Sancholle Henraux, but the real turning point
for the local economy took place with the construction of the road and
the excavation of the tunnel Cipollaio (1875-1879). The parish church,
dedicated to Sant'Agostino in honor of the Patron Saint of the mother
church of Vagli di Sotto, was started around 1820. The bell tower of the
church, instead, was started in 1900 but was completed only in 1927.
There was already another small church in the site “Campagrina”, on the
right side of the stream Turrite, dedicated to Santa Maria Maddalena.
This village is also interesting from the hiking point of view: in addition to
the many paths that lead to, for example, Mount Altissimo and to the
Botanical Garden, not far from the village you can observe the
phenomenon of "Marmitte dei Giganti", huge semispherical cavities in
carbonate rocks excavated by the erosive action of water currents.
SANT'ANNA
Old pasture of Farnocchia, originally based on
an economy basically of agriculture and pastoralism.
Universally known for the fierce incident of August
12th, 1944, the day on which more than 560 people
were killed. Today Sant'Anna is the symbol of the
Culture of Peace and condemnation of all forms of oppression or war,
protection of the supreme value of the resistance to any attempt to undo the
democratic values of freedom won in the war. The Ossuary Monument, the
Museum and the Way of the Cross are witnessing of the Nazi-fascist
barbarism.
The village consists of a central core where we find the church, dedicated to
Sant'Anna, dating back to the sixteenth Century, and from small villages
scattered. Nearby there are still visible traces of the mining sites "Argentiera"
(where since ancient times they extracted argentiferous minerals “galena”) and
"Monte Arsiccio" active until the 1980s in the extraction of iron and mixed
sulfides. Sant'Anna can be reached by car along a panoramic road that winds
through the hills of Versilia or on foot, from Farnocchia, from CaprigliaCapezzano or Valdicastello through ancient mule tracks that are part of the
Via Francigena.
LA CULLA
Lovely village built on a steep slope, entirely
surrounded by olive groves. The houses and
the church are constructed on horizontal layers
of rock located on the Southern foothills of
Mount Gabberi. Enjoying a cool and windy climate,
thanks to the opening to the sea, this is a great
holiday location and a privileged panoramic point: from here you can
see both the coast and the flat. The church is dedicated to
Sant'Antonio da Padova and to Santi Angeli Custodi and was built in
1680. The rectory and the baptismal font were built in 1795. From
the village you can walk to the Mount Gabberi.
PALAGNANA
Built as the summer pasture of the village of Stazzema,
the country is located at the foot of Mount Matanna
and Monte Croce and is the southern end of the
municipality. Its scattered houses along the ridge of
the mountain and descended towards the stream Turrite,
are entirely surrounded by chestnut and beech trees.
Favorite destination for hikers, that through the trails
can reach the rocks of the mountains Croce and Matanna. The church,
dedicated to Sant'Antonio Abate, was built in the eighteenth Century on
the initiative of the shepherds who had settled in the territory. The
structure is very simple with of a single nave. Inside there is a painting of
St. Anne and other Saints as ornament of the main altar.
GALLENA
The small village has ancient origins. The name,
with Roman origin (Galena), is linked to the
excavation and the melting of the lead-silver
mineral, that there was extracted and blended,
as evidenced by the deep tunnels still existing.
The church, which is at the beginning of the village,
is dedicated to Santa Barbara and has been
restored and painted by Nathan Wasserbauer
around the late 1990s. Gallena is definitely a place where you can find
good air and quiet, a haven to unwind from the stress of city life.
Comune di Stazzema
Piazza Europa, 6
55040 Pontestazzemese
Tel. 0584 77521 Fax 0584 777259
www.comune.stazzema.lu.it
[email protected]
Comune Di Stazzema
Tourist Information Office
Via C. del Greco, 11
55047 Seravezza
Tel. 0584 757325 Fax 0584 758750
www.prolocoseravezza.it
[email protected]
@prolocoseravezz
Pro Loco Seravezza
Made by Alice Barsanti, Sara Battistini, Viola Marchetti, Emanuela Olobardi
2014