How to Rebuild a Baumfolder

* This manual to be used with 200 and 700 Series Baumfolder Folding Equipment
· Section 1: How to Rebuild a Baumfolder
· Section 2: Setting fold plates and deflectors
· Section 3: Calibration of Zero Baumset
· Section 4: Calibrating the Caliper
· Appendix A: Suggested Special Tools List
· Appendix B: Roll Pan and Deflector Settings
- For Cast fold pans
· Appendix C: Roll Pan and Deflector Settings
- For Fabricated fold pans
· Appendix D: Worksheet
· Parts Order form
Before working on the folder, DISCONNECT ALL ELECTRICAL POWER SUPPLY TO THE
FOLDER to prevent the accidental start of the folder. Check to be sure you have the
correct tools to complete the job.
For reasons of safety, long hair must be tied back or otherwise secured, garments must be
close fitting and no jewelry, such as rings or necklaces, may be worn while adjusting or
setting up equipment. Injury may result from being caught up in the machinery or jewelry
catching in moving parts.
For more information or to order parts phone Baum at 1-800-543-6107
Ó 2002 Baumfolder Corporation
All Rights Reserved
Section 1: How to Rebuild a Baumfolder
200 and 700 Series
NOTE; There are several bolts with the same diameter and thread but different lengths. Do not
interchange bolts of different lengths. The length is very important.
PREPARATION AND DISASSEMBLY
1.
Before working on the folder: DISCONNECT ALL ELECTRICAL POWER SUPPLY
TO THE FOLDER to prevent the accidental start of the folder.
2.
Check level across the number one roller; make sure the number one roller is tight
against the main drive roller, and check level from front to back of right and left frame.
Check to insure you have all the parts and tools necessary such as reamers, gauges,
and etc. It is helpful to clean area around the folder so if you drop anything, it will be
easier to find.
3.
Remove all guards covering areas where you will be working. If the guards you are
removing have electrical wires in it, do not stretch the wires. A wire may pull out of the
terminal and cause a short when you check the folder. Caution should be exercised
when replacing the guards not to pinch lead wires between the guard and the frame
causing a short in the electrical system.
4.
Remove drive belts. If you are not familiar with the equipment, I suggest you put tape on
the belt to identify its location for later convenience.
5.
Remove slitter shaft and slitter shaft boxing.
6.
Remove fold plates on the section you are working on. Store them in a manor that the
nose of the fold plate or the fold plate itself is not damaged.
7.
To remove the rollers, loosen the setscrew in the collar of each
roller (usually on the left end of the roller) and move the collar
toward the body of the fold roll.
8.
Remove the hand wheel. When removing the hand wheel on
the 700 series, there is a small bearing and small spring in the
hand wheel. Look For a small setscrew in the sleeve part of the
hand wheel. Remove the setscrew and hold your hand to catch
the spring and bearing when you turn the hand wheel over.
9.
There is a worksheet in these instructions. Use this to make a note
of the location of the witness marks on the eccentrics for future
reference. You can achieve the proper space between the rollers
with the eccentric 180 degrees off until you get to the number five
roller. You want to know where to start when you are setting the
rollers.
(continued)
Page 2 of 19
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PREPARATION AND DISASSEMBLY Continued….
10.
On folders with 1 ¾ diameter rollers, remove the plate rails by
loosening the nuts on the inside of the plate rails. Make sure the
nuts on the 200 series socket head bolts are tight before removing
the nuts on the inside of the plate rail.
11.
Remove the drive gears on the outside of the frame on the nonoperator side of the folder section you are working on. Use the
parts book if you have trouble remembering how it goes back
together or draw a sketch for future reference.
12.
It is not necessary to remove the register table to change the fold
rollers, but I recommend it to allow better access when removing
rollers and later when setting the eccentrics and fold plates setting
on the #2 and #4 plate and rail.
13.
To remove the register table:
a.
b.
c.
d.
e.
f.
g.
h.
Remove paper hold-downs and tuck-in shoes.
Loosen the setscrews locking the eccentrics on all Four
Corners of the register table.
Have two people, one on each side to hold up the register
table. Remove the eccentrics and place the register table in a
safe place so it will not be damaged.
Clean and /or replace spools and stems on the tape
tightener assembly on the register table.
Replace the register tapes if necessary on the register
table.
Check the bearings on the large and small tape rolls.
Check the register guide for wear on the inside of the
guide. Replace if necessary.
To replace the register, reverse the procedures you
used to remove it.
13.
Remove all tension block bolts, ten (five on each side),
on the top of the fold section frame. All Baumfolders are
similar in this area except the Mark 2 and older folders.
14.
If the folder has oil lines, remove oil lines from the roll
boxing on main drive roll sleeve.
15.
Remove the bolts from the right and left roller
boxing eccentric/ studs from the number one idler
roller. Note the bolts in the eccentrics are fine
threads. The length and the threads are
important. Remove the roll by lifting up and
toward you. Place in a location where it will not
get damaged.
(continued)
Page 3 of 19
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PREPARATION AND DISASSEMBLY Continued….
16.
Continue by repeating step 15 on the # 2,3,4,and 5 rollers.
17.
Remove the main drive roll sleeve on the operator side of the folder. Slide the main drive
roller toward you through the opening in the side frame.
PREPARATION TO INSTALL NEW ROLLERS.
1.
Mark 2 folders have cherry wood bushings, but the 700 and 200 series folders have
brass bushings. They are installed and reamed the same so we will not note type of
bushing in our future remarks. Rebuilding a Mark 2 is similar so by using good
mechanical judgment you can use this instruction.
2.
The main drive roll sleeve has two bushings, one pressed in from each side with a space
between them. Press both bushings out. Then press in one new bushing in from the
flanged side of the main drive roll sleeve until it is flush with the sleeve. Then Press in
the second new bushing in on the small end of the sleeve leaving the bushing extended
.015 out of the main drive roll sleeve This allows the gear or collar to run against the
bushing instead of the metal main drive roll sleeve. Hand ream the bushing with a
standard reamer the size of the main drive roll journal, usually 7/8 of inch. Normally you
do not ream an oilite bushing, but the folder will be oiled and does not depend on the oil
in the bushing so we do ream the bushing to fit the roll journal.
3.
Repeat step 2 on the opposite main drive roll sleeve. Insert the right and left main drive
roll sleeve back into the folder in reverse order that you removed them except that you
leave the main drive roll out for now. Check the location of the oil holes in the main drive
roll sleeves to insure they are in the correct location. If the sleeves are reversed, the oil
holes will be in the wrong position.
4.
Slide a lining bar the diameter of the main drive roll shaft, usually 7/8
of an inch. Turn the lining bar and at the same time tighten one bolt at
a time in the main drive roll sleeve. If the lining bar is tight to turn,
loosen the last bolt you tightened and go to the next bolt. Where the
bolts are loose, add a shim between the sleeve and the folder frame.
Try tightening the bolt again and continuing until the shaft turns free
with all the bolts tightened. There should not be very many shims in
either sleeve. Tape the shim to the frame so it stays in place when
you remove the main drive roll sleeve. Insert the lining bar through
the left main drive roll sleeve. Put the coupling and reamer the size of the roller journal
(shaft), and ream the main drive roll sleeve on the right.
Repeat the procedure to ream the main drive roll sleeve
on the left side.
(continued)
Page 4 of 19
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PREPARATION TO INSTALL NEW ROLLERS Continued….
5.
Check the new main drive roller with the old one to insure the correct end to put on the
roll gear. Some main drive rolls have a spacer between the roll gear and the main drive
roll sleeve. Check the old main drive roll to see if your folder needs the spacer. Install the
new drive roll gear, and spacer if needed, on the main drive roller. Install the collar on
the opposite journal. If you are working on a rollaway section of the 200 or 700 series,
install the cross carrier drive gear instead of the collar. The gear hub should be away
from the body of the roller. Remove the main drive roll sleeve from the frame and slide
the main drive roller in the opening in the frame. Be sure the roll gear is toward the nonoperator (right) side. The rollaway sections have the roll gears on the left side of the unit.
On the sixteen-page unit or second right angle, the third roller has a roll gear on both
sides. This is to change the drive so the stacker drive doesn’t interfere with the roller
drive. Any time you have a gear on the roller and a collar above or below it, always use a
smaller diameter collar so it doesn’t interfere with the gear. Replace the left main drive
roll sleeve then tighten the three bolts that fasten the main drive roll sleeve. The main
drive roller should turn free.
PREPARING ROLLER BOXING FOR INSTALLATION.
1.
Check each roll boxing before pressing out the old bushing to
insure you can drill the oil hole in the bushing AFTER the new
bushing is pressed in. If not, measure the location of the hole in
the old bushing. Drill a slightly larger hole in the same
measurement in the new bushing before it is pressed in the
boxing. Press out the old oilite bushing. Lines up the hole drilled
in the new bushing with the oil hole in the boxing and press the
bushing in the boxing leaving .015 thousands past the surface of the boxing that faces
the body of the roller. You can usually look on the side of the roll boxing for the witness
mark for the eccentric to identify the side toward the roller body. If this is not done, the
folder may begin squealing after it runs for a couple of hours and you will have to do the
work over. If the collar or roll gear rubs against the metal of the roll boxing, you may get
this noise. After pressing in the bushings in all the roll boxings, place the roll boxings in
pairs back-to-back and insert a shaft 5/8-inch in diameter through the eccentric holes
and ream them as a pair .002 thousands larger than the roll journal (shaft).
2.
Continue this procedure for all the roll boxing. Put lightweight oil on the new eccentric
and insert it into the roll boxing. Add a light coat of oil in the roll boxing. Inspect the roll
boxing, the collar on the roller, and any other surface where two parts make contact are
free from any burrs or ruff surfaces to insure free movement. Install the boxing on the
roller journal; make sure the roll gear is on the correct side. Move the collars toward the
body of the roller and snug the setscrew on the flat of the roller journal. This is so you
know where the flat is later when you set the endplay and you tighten the setscrews.
Now you are ready to begin installing the rollers back into the folder. Install the rollers in
the reverse order that you removed them.
(continued)
Page 5 of 19
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AFTER THE ROLLS ARE INSTALLED.
1.
Set the protractor at thirteen degrees. The first roll should be
thirteen degrees toward the delivery end of the fold section.
Make sure the number one idler roll is tight against the main
drive roll when you get the proper degree. Place the protractor
on the end of the roll on the number one roll and the main drive
roller as shown. Refer to your notes to insure the witness mark
is in the correct position as you adjust the eccentric to get the
thirteen degrees. YOU CAN GET THE CORRECT SETTING WITH THE ECCENTRIC
IN TWO LOCATIONS ON THE ECCENTRIC BUT WHEN YOU GET TO THE LAST
ROLLER, YOU WILL NOT BE ABLE TO GET THE CORRECT POSITION. Therefore
it is very important to set the eccentric in the correct position on each eccentric.
2.
NOTE: be sure the High point of the eccentrics are the same directions on both sides.
This is important because of the pivot point and even tension across the roller.
3.
To set the endplay, (movement side ways,) on the number one roll, insert a ten
thousands feeler gauge between the collar and the roller boxing. Use a flat blade
screwdriver between the body of the roller and the collar and move the roller towards the
gear side of the roller. Apply very slight tension against the collar and tighten the
setscrew in the collar. You should be able to move the feeler gauge in and out with slight
drag. Separate the number one roll and the main drive roll and work the number one
roller side ways. You should have very little movement.
4.
Take the endplay out of the main drive roller without using a feeler gauge. It should not
have endplay but turn freely, without a bind. Tighten the number one roller against the
main drive roller until the washer under the roll boxing has no tension but is still in
contact with the roll boxing.
5.
Loosen the setscrew in the tension adjusting screw and
loosen the tension on the spring on the right and left roll
boxing. Now tighten the adjustment tension adjustment screw
until it just begins to put pressure on the spring, then turn the
adjustment screw one and one half turns for an adjustment
screw with course threads or two and one half turns for a
adjustment screw with fine threads. To test the spring tension,
you can insert a fine blade screwdriver between the number
one and the main drive rolls on the bear bands, noting the pressure when the rollers
snap together as you remove the screw driver. It should about the same on both sides.
Now the rollers and the roll gears should be aligned and will turn free when using your
fingers to turn the rollers.
(continued)
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AFTER THE ROLLS ARE INSTALLED
Continued….
6.
Now bring the number two roll into contact with the main drive roller by rotating the
eccentric on the right and left side to the approximate original position and tighten the
roller tension screw until the washer is below the roll boxing is about 1/16”. Watch to
maintain this 1/16” while you are adjusting the roller. Move the number 3 roller so it has
no contact with the number two rolls. Insert the
roll gauge (.812), between the number one roll
and the number two roll on the right side as
indicated in picture at right. Turn the
eccentric in and up toward the roll gauge until
there is very slight tension on the gauge.
Repeat the same process on the left side of the
number two roll and check back and forth until
the tension is the same on both sides and the
eccentrics are within the tolerance of +. 003 of
an inch as long as both sides are the same.
Remember you can get the proper setting with
the high point of the eccentric in two different
locations, but if you have the eccentric in the
incorrect position, you will not be able to adjust the last fold roller. Set the endplay the
same as you did the number one roller. Now loosen the setscrew in the tension spring
nut and loosen the spring on both sides until the number two idler roller falls away from
the main drive roll. Make sure the tension screw does not turn. Now tighten both the right
and left tension screw nuts slowly until the number two idler roll just touches the main
drive roll. Then turn the tension adjustment nut one and one half turns on the course
thread tension screw or two complete turns on the fine thread adjustment screw. Check
the tension with the screwdriver the same as you did on the first idler roll. The gear side
may feel slightly different due to the mash of the roll gears.
7.
Repeat the same process for the number three idler roll and then for the number four
and five idler rolls.
8.
Now all the rolls and roll gears should be in line. All of the rolls
should have .010 thousands end play except the main drive
roll and you should be able to turn the rollers with your fingers.
You should be able to lay a straight edge across the number
one roll, number two and the number four rollers as indicated
in the picture. The same is true underneath with the main
drive roller, number three and number five rollers.
** End of Section 1 **
Page 7 of 19
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Section 2: Setting fold plates and deflectors
200 and 700 Series
Introduction:
Checking and adjusting fold plates can be a very trying task. Before making any adjustments,
consider carefully the results of the move you are about to make and what you have now.
Some examples to think about:
Ø Has someone put a wider spacer between the fold plate and the fold pan? If so, you will
never get proper space above and below the fold plate assemble. To check this, see if
the distance from the top of the pan nose to the bottom of the nose of the fold plate is
less than the .812 roll gauge. (Part number 09934) After you have the proper space
between the nose of the fold pan and the roll above the nose, you should have at least
.008 of an inch between the bottom fold plate and the roll below it.
Ø Is the plate and/or pan bent, check it with a straight edge.
Ø Are the fold rollers the proper distance apart? Check the rolls with the .812 roll gauge on
the bear bands and between the urethane bands in case the bands are not ground to
Baumfolders’ specifications.
Ø Is the fold plate lying flat (level) on the plate rails? If not, when the plate is locked
against the rails with the plate clamp, the space above and below the plate will change
and possibly rub the rolls.
The 200 series and the 700 series have three different styles of plate latches. Earlier styles
have plungers and gear racks. The later 200 series and earlier 700 series have the plungers on
the 26” folders. The 730 series had gear racks on the earlier style. Some 700 series have the
plate latches on the outside of the plate rails. We will discuss all three styles.
Plunger Plate
Gear Plate
Latch Plate
(continued)
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SETTING FOLD PLATES AND DEFLECTORS
Continued….
Any time you are checking fold plates, be sure all of the fold rollers are together and NOT set for
any thickness of paper in the Baumsets.
1.
All fold plates are set the same way. If the fold plate has a gear rack the gear to raise the
fold plate and the gear on the fold plate has a punch mark. The punch marks must line
up from the tooth gear to raise the fold plate and the mark on the matching tooth on the
fold plate rack. If both sides of the fold plate are not the same, the fold plate and the
deflector will be crooked. Now replace all plate rails in the reverse order you removed
them.
2.
The plungers should be removed on fold plates and plates rails that have plungers.
Place the fold plate gauge with the rounded side up between the number one idler roll
and number two roll. One gauge should be about one and a quarter inches from the left
end of the roll and another gauge one and a quarter inches from the right end of the roll.
On the number two and four fold plate location, put a little grease on the gauges to hold
them against the roller so they don’t fall out.
3.
Insert the number one fold plate assembly with the deflector up until the plate rests
against the plate gauges. Loosen the five ¼-20 bolts that fasten the bottom fold plate to
the top fold pan of the fold plate assembly. The top fold pan and the bottom fold plate
both should be touching both fold plate gauges. Now tighten the five ¼-20 bolts. Scribe a
line on the both of the plate rails against the back of the fold plate. Remove the two plate
gauges. Latch the fold plate in place, with (plunger, gears or latches on the outside of
the rail. The fold plate should be on the scribe line. If not, move the plate rail in or out
with the eccentrics on the plate rails. The pre-fab fold plates with latches on the side
have adjustment screws on bottom plate and can be adjusted in or out without loosening
the ¼-20 bolts.
4.
Now loosen the four fold plate guide screws under the fold pan. Loosen the plate clamps
so nothing affects the fold plate assembly against the plate rails. Hold the fold plate
assembly back about an inch from the rolls and tap the four corners of the fold plate
assembly to see if the fold plate lays flat on the fold plates rails. If the front of the fold
plate assembly on the left side is high; (away from the plate rail) you have four options.
1. -You can raise the front eccentric on the left plate rail, which will also lower the back of
the left plate rail. 2. -You can lower the back plate rail eccentric, which will raise the front
of the plate rail. 3. -You can raise the right rear plate rail eccentric, which will lower the
right side of the fold plate assembly. Then the fold plate assembly will lay flat on the left
plate rail. 4.-You can lower the right front eccentric, and at the same time raise the right
rear of the right plate rail. Naturally this also allows the nose of the fold plate assembly
lay flat on the left rail. They can not all be right because they have a different effect on
the distance of the nose of the fold plate assembly to the fold roll above the nose of the
fold plate assembly. To determine the proper adjustment, insert the fold plate assembly
into its proper location. Use a feeler gauge the proper thickness and check the distance
between the nose of the fold plate assembly and the fold roll above fold plate assembly.
To find the proper space, see the charts in Appendix B or C, depending on the type of
fold pans your machine has. As an example, if there was .015 on the right side between
the fold plate assembly and the fold roll and .020 between the nose of the fold plate
assembly and the fold roll above it on the left side. You would raise the front eccentric on
the left plate rail if you were adjusting the number one plate in the parallel section. The
small amount you raise the left plate rail would probably make both sides .015
(continued)
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SETTING FOLD PLATES AND DEFLECTORS
Continued….
(step 4 continued)
thousands. THINK BEFORE YOU MAKE A MOVE. If you don’t, you can spend hours
doing something you could have done with one move. If someone has removed the plate
rails from the folder, start with the high point of the eccentrics in the center and pointing
toward the fold rollers.
5.
After you have the fold plate properly adjusted, adjust the guide screws on the fold plate.
This is not a critical adjustment. It should be about .040 of an inch. Replace the plate
clamps and the plate stop you removed and straightened when you removed the fold
rollers. Leave the bolts loose until you adjust the deflectors.
6.
Pull the fold plate you finished adjusting back and install the proper deflector gauges
(using either Appendix B or C) with the thick part of the gauge up in the same location
you placed the plate gauges. Lower the deflector in place. Lower the fold plate assembly
against the deflector gauges. Scribe a line on both plate rails at the back of the fold
plate. Remove the deflector gauges and fasten the fold plate with the plungers or gear or
plate latches. The fold plate and deflector should be on the scribe line. The only one you
can change between the fold plate setting and the deflector setting is the 700 series with
the plate latches. Now, again using either Appendix B or C, use the proper feeler gauge
to set the proper distance between the top of the deflector and the fold roll above it. On
the 200 series and the earlier 700 series you can use a flat feeler gauge and hold it
parallel with the top of the fold plate assembly to check the distance between the fold
plate and the fold roll. The adjustment screw to raise and lower the deflector is in the
hinge of the deflector. This is a critical adjustment. If it is too low, you will get dog-ears
(corner of the sheet turned back). If it is too high, the deflector will rub the fold roll. Once
you have the proper setting, tighten the nut on the adjustment screws so the setting will
not change. Now move the plate stop so it clears the stop on the deflectors and tighten
the bolts. The plate stops are there so when you lower the fold plate when the folder is
running, the fold plate will not hit the roller. THE 700 SERIES WITH THE FOLD PLATE
LATCHES ARE ADJUSTED THE SAME WAY EXCEPT A FEELER GAUGE WITH A
BEND ON THE END. This is due to the shape of the deflector. You want to feel the
space between the top edge of the deflector and the roll. The only way this is possible is
with a feeler gauge that will not touch the back edge of the deflector.
7.
Continue the same process with the number two, three, and four plates and deflectors.
8.
Replace the gears and belts on the outside of the frame except the drive belt on the
register table.
9.
Replace the register table and drive belt on the register table.
10.
Replace the bushings, if necessary, in the slitter shaft boxing. Ream each one with a
7/8” reamer. Mount the boxing with the slitter shafts and line ream from the left to right
and right to left. Install the slitter shafts
NOTE: See diagrams on the following page as reference
(continued)
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SETTING FOLD PLATES AND DEFLECTORS
Continued….
** End of Section 2 **
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Section 3: Calibration of Zero Baumset
Before the automatic roll setting feature can be used, it is necessary to calibrate it to
ensure that the fold rolls are suspended the proper amount when paper is inserted into
the Baumset tension screws. To calibrate the Zero Baumset, you should do the
following:
1.
Tear or cut some strips of paper approximately ½: x 1: in length. It is best to use 50-60#
offset stock or equivalent, but some other weight can be used providing the same stock
is used for all the adjustments.
2.
Push down on the lever for the #1 Baumset on the left
hand side of the folder. Insert a single thickness of
one of the paper strips, prepared in step #1, in the
Baumset tension screw. Gently push up on the
Baumset lever to make sure it is seated.
3.
Loosen the Baumset knob assembly, which locks the
tension screw in place.
4.
Insert a single thickness of paper stock, of the same
weight as used in the Zero Baumset device, between
the #1 fold roll and the stationary fold roll. Be sure the
paper is free of tears or folds. The strip of paper
should be inserted approximately 1: from the left hand
roll band or between the first rubber segment of the
combination fold roll. To insert the strip of paper, turn
the handwheel counterclockwise, rocking back and
forth to be sure the rollers are seated. (Note: When
setting the #3 and #5 Baumsets, it will be necessary to
turn the handwheel clockwise to roll the strip in place.)
5.
Adjust the micro adjustment know until you can pull the strip of paper out from between
the #1 and stationary roll using a steady, light pull. You should feel and even drag of the
sheet.
6.
Tighten the Baumset lock knob. Remove the pull strips.
7.
Repeat the procedure outlined in steps #2 through #6 for the #1 RH Baumset.
8.
Check the adjustment on both the LH and RH sides of the fold rolls to ensure an even
pull on each side.
9.
Repeat the process outlined in steps #2 through #8 for the #2, #3, #4 and #5 Baumsets.
Be sure to use the same thickness of paper throughout the calibration.
(continued)
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To set the Zero Baumset dial, remove all the strips of paper from the Baumset adjustment gap
and do the following:
1.
Locate the micro adjustment knob so that the top is level with the top of the lever. The
Zero Baumset dial should be seated on the stem lock nut. It will be necessary to loosen
the stem lock nut and screw the micro adjustment knob up or down if it is not level with
the top of the dial.
2.
At this time, align the triangle on the lever and the triangle on the Zero Baumset dial.
(See triangle alignment illustration.) Make certain the Baumset lock knob is tight so the
tension screw doesn’t turn while the micro adjustment knob is adjusted up or down.
Recheck the calibration to be sure the tension screw did not turn. Retighten the stem
lock nut.
NOTE: The micro adjustment know must be level with the lever to ensure a proper
reference point for the triangle alignment in case the micro adjustment knob is turned
360 degrees up or down. If it is not level indicates that the micro adjustment knob
should be readjusted.
Now the Zero Baumset is calibrated. To set up a job, refer to the operation of the Baumset.
SETTING THE BAUMSET or GAPSET
Once the Baumset has been calibrated or zero in the fold rollers can
be set automatically with a designated amount of paper in each
Baumset or each roller can be set manually.
To calibrate rolls:
1. Be sure all rolls closed (together). Turn tension screw until
washer (A ) is just touching Roll Bearing ( B ).
2. Insert one thickness paper (small) into each Baumset ( C ) Lift
lever ( D ) to insert.
3. Using same type paper, cut two strips of paper 2” x 10” and insert
into rolls starting with #1 roller and proceed with same procedure
through #5. (Baumset is number 1,2,3,4,5) Insert strips on right
and left side by lifting lever ( D ) and inserting strips, or with power
off, turn sheets into rolls by turning hand wheel. NOTE: If turning
rollers backward inserting paper, rock them in forward motion to
set the gears to insure rolls together.
4. With lock screw ( E ) loose turn tension screw counter clockwise
and pull on strip of paper at the same time until you can feel it
starting to move. Repeat same motion on other end of fold roller.
Recheck to be sure both ends of the roll has a snug drag (equal).
Lock the tension setting with lock screw ( E ). Recheck again to
insure you still have same setting.
5. Repeat on #2 then #3 and etc…
** End of Section 3 **
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Section 4:
To Calibrate Caliper
Turn Caliper Adj. knob counter clockwise and push down until Throw off wheel contact the
Feed Roll. Loosen set screw ( A ) – insert a Dime (10¢ piece) between Caliper squaring
block and Throw off wheel setting lever. Make sure Draw roll latch is latched on to caliper
reset pin. Apply light pressure down on Caliper adj. knob and tighten set screw ( A ).
Remove dime and adjust caliper by turning Caliper adjust knob clockwise until one (1) sheet
of material you are running moves free between Throw off wheel and the feed roll but not two
(2) sheets.
The set screw with the ½” nut on the left side of the Caliper squaring block should be set so
the block slides up and down free but doesn’t rock back and forth.
** End of Section 4 **
Page 14 of 19
Ó 2002 Baumfolder Corporation
All Rights Reserved
Phone 1-800-543-6107
APPENDIX A - Suggested Special Tools List
Reference Appendix B & C for the proper part numbers that relate to your folder.
Note: Any Folder built after the 700 series has bearings and straight studs instead of eccentrics
in most locations.
BENCH LEVEL - used to check the level of the folder. The position of the
folder is not as critical as a lath or a machining tool but does need to be level so
the rollers run true against the next roller. The bench level has a v-groove in the
base so it lays true on the roller. The locations to level the folder will be noted in
the instructions. Usually the cross-locations are the fold rollers on the fold section
and the feed wheel shaft on the feeder.
PROTRACTORHEAD - used to measure the degree of the number one roller in
relationship to the main drive roller. The protractor has a level attached. Set the
protractor at 95 degrees and center the bubble to get 5 degrees forward or 103
degrees with the bubble in the center to get 13 degrees. Without this setting, you
have no starting location to use the roll gauges.
ROLL GAUGE - used to measure the distance from one roll to the next where the
fold plates are located. If the distance is too narrow, the fold plate will rub the fold
rollers. If the space is too wide, the paper will go over the top of the fold plate or will
not fold properly.
PLATE GAUGES - used to align the top pan and the bottom plate of the fold plate assembly
PLUS measure the distance between the fold rollers and the fold plate assembly. This is
important to allow the sheet of paper to properly enter the fold plate assembly as well as to fold
properly.
DEFLECTOR GAUGE - used to set the proper distance between the fold roller and the
deflector. This is very important. If one side of the deflector is closer to the fold roller than
the other side, the signature you fold will score crooked or slit crooked. This is caused by
the difference the sheet travels on the right side in comparison to the travel on the left side.
The deflector gauges gets wider at the top as you go from section to the next section due to
the bulk of the folded signature.
LINING BAR - used to insure the bushing or bearing in the right frame is properly
lined with the bushing or bearing in the left frame. If the rollers or shafts are not lined
with both sides, the bearing or bushing will get hot and overload the electrical supply.
You also use the lining bar by coupling the reamer to the end of the lining bar to line
ream the bushing in the main drive bushing and/or the slitter shafts as well as any other
shaft that turns in both side frames.
REAMER - used to size the I.D. of the bushing to the journal of the roller and/or the shaft to be used.
In most instances an oilite bushing should be broached instead of reamed. Since we oil the
bushing and do not rely on the oil in the bushing, we suggest reaming the bushing with a
sharp reamer. The standard REAMERS are used in the slitter shafts and/or main drive rollers and
locations where the shaft doesn’t move except to rotate. The EXPANSION REAMERS are used in the
idler rollers where the I.D. is .502 thousands or .002 thousands over the standard reamer.
FEELER GAUGES - used in several locations during rebuilding the folder. In most instances, the
straight feeler gauge about 12 inches long will work very well. On the 700 series with the fabricated fold
plate a deflector is wider and you need a feeler gauge with a bend on the end, you may want to consider
buying one from BAUM to insure the correct setting.
** End of Appendix A **
Page 15 of 19
Ó 2002 Baumfolder Corporation
All Rights Reserved
Phone 1-800-543-6107
APPENDIX B - Roll, Pan & Deflector Settings
700 Series with Cast Fold Pans
ROLL GAUGE .812 Part Nbr
PLATE GAUGE Part Nbr
10431
09934
DEFLECTOR GAUGE
Part Nbr: For Parallel 91640
For 8 page 91641
For 16 & 32 page 91643
FOLD PAN SETTINGS
DEFLECTOR SETTINGS
PARALLEL
‘A‘
#1 Fold Pan
#2 Fold Pan
#3 Fold Pan
#4 Fold Pan
.015
.015
.025
.025
‘A‘
#1 Deflector
#2 Deflector
#3 Deflector
#4 Deflector
.015
.015
.015
.015
8-PAGE
#1 Fold Pan
#2 Fold Pan
#3 Fold Pan
#4 Fold Pan
.020
.020
.025
.030
#1 Deflector
#2 Deflector
#3 Deflector
#4 Deflector
.015
.015
.030
.035
16-PAGE
#1 Fold Pan
#2 Fold Pan
#3 Fold Pan
#4 Fold Pan
.020
.020
.040
.045
#1 Deflector
#2 Deflector
#3 Deflector
#4 Deflector
.020
.020
.040
.045
32-PAGE
#1 Fold Pan
#2 Fold Pan
.012
.022
#1 Deflector
#2 Deflector
.012
.022
End play in Rolls .10 (All Sections)
To ADJUST Fold Pans – Use Rail Ecc.
Front Ecc. - In & Out plus Up & Down
Rear Ecc. - Up & Down only
** End of Appendix B **
Page 16 of 19
Ó 2002 Baumfolder Corporation
All Rights Reserved
Phone 1-800-543-6107
APPENDIX C - Roll, Pan & Deflector Settings
700 Series with Fabricated Fold Pans
ROLL GAUGE .812 Part Nbr 10431
PLATE GAUGE Part Nbr 09934
DEFLECTOR GAUGE
Part Nbr: For Parallel & 8 page 92020
For 16 & 32 page
91643
FOLD PAN SETTINGS
DEFLECTOR SETTINGS
PARALLEL
‘A‘
#1 Fold Pan
#2 Fold Pan
#3 Fold Pan
#4 Fold Pan
.015
.015
.025
.025
‘A‘
#1 Deflector
#2 Deflector
#3 Deflector
#4 Deflector
.015
.015
.015
.015
8-PAGE
#1 Fold Pan
#2 Fold Pan
#3 Fold Pan
#4 Fold Pan
.020
.020
#1 Deflector
#2 Deflector
#3 Deflector
#4 Deflector
.015
.015
.030
.035
16-PAGE
#1 Fold Pan
#2 Fold Pan
#3 Fold Pan
#4 Fold Pan
.020
.020
#1 Deflector
#2 Deflector
#3 Deflector
#4 Deflector
.020
.020
.035
.045
32-PAGE
#1 Fold Pan
#2 Fold Pan
.020
.020
#1 Deflector
#2 Deflector
.020
.020
End play in Rolls .10
To ADJUST Fold Pans – Use Rail Ecc.
Front Ecc. - In & Out plus Up & Down
Rear Ecc. - Up & Down only
** End of Appendix C **
Page 17 of 19
Ó 2002 Baumfolder Corporation
All Rights Reserved
Phone 1-800-543-6107
APPENDIX D
Page 18 of 19
Ó 2002 Baumfolder Corporation
All Rights Reserved
Phone 1-800-543-6107
BAUM
BAUM EASY-FAX Order Form
1660 Campbell Road
Sidney, OH 45365
Fax #: 1-800-452-0947
or 1-937-497-8301
PH: 1-800-543-6107
-or- 1-937-778-9636
If you need information or assistance identifying part numbers please
call our Parts department toll free at 800-543-6107 between the hours
of 8 a.m. and 5 p.m. EST
Customer Information : For Billing
Ship-to Information:
Acct #:
P.O. Nbr: __________________________
___________________
Company: ______________________________________
Company: _______________________________________
Contact:
______________________________________
Contact:
_______________________________________
Address:
______________________________________
Address:
_______________________________________
City / St:
______________________________________
City / St:
_______________________________________
Zip:
_____________________
Zip:
_____________________
Phone:
_______________________________
Phone:
_______________________________
IMPORTANT: If you do not indicate order status, order will be assumed to be “Normal”
ORDER STATUS: Emergency Order ______
Qty
Part Number
Rush Order ______
Normal Order ______
Description
* Model# & Serial #
_____OK to ship C.O.D. if necessary
Shipping Instructions: (mark only one)
_____UPS Ground
_____UPS 2nd Day Air
_____UPS Next Day
_____Federal Express
_____Truck
____Other ___________________
(Please specify)
Charge Card Information:
_____VISA
_____Mastercard
Name on Card: ______________________________________________
Expiration Date: ____________ Phone #: ________________________
Card #: ____________________________________________________
* For Machines under Warranty you MUST supply Serial# and Model# above